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TOPIC: ViewSonic N3252W
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d8e80b609d7d2df?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 1:50 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

>
> "playedataritoday" <playedataritoday@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:cd45cc88-2140-40fc-8095-042b7813dbe6@t35g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
>>I was given this TV today to try and repair. I know the power
>> supplies on this model have been a big problem, but before I buy a
>> replacement I wanted to run the symptoms by you guys.
>>
>> It was working for a while on tuner mode and then got stuck on one of
>> the inputs and would not allow for it to be changed. It was used like
>> this for a few weeks and then got stuck running in the test pattern.
>> Every 5 seconds or so a different color screen would show up and then
>> sometimes the full color bar test pattern. I took the back off and
>> took the following measurements at power supply connectors both when
>> the unit is on and when it is in standby.
>>
>> CN102
>> On (Standby)
>> 1 - 12.09 (0)
>> 2 - 12.09 (0)
>> 3 - GND
>> 4 - GND
>> 5 - GND
>> 6 - GND
>> 7 - 5.11 (5.11)
>> 8 - 5.11 (5.11)
>> 9 - 5.11 (5.11)
>> 10 - 3.47 (.062)
>> 11 - 3.57 (.627)
>> 12 - 4.87 (.006)
>>
>> CN101
>> On (Standby)
>> 1 - GND
>> 2 - GND
>> 3 - GND
>> 4 - GND
>> 5 - 23.75 (0)
>> 6 - 23.75 (0)
>> 7 - 23.75 (0)
>> 8 - 23.75 (0)
>> 9 - 3.57 (.627)
>> 10 - 4.87 (.006)
>>
>> I removed the power supply completely and can see no evidence of
>> faulty capacitors and the voltages all seem to be in range. My only
>> concerns are the On/Standby voltage being 3.47V, although I don't have
>> the schematics so I am not sure what it should be. I might have
>> expected something closer to 5V. If that is the expected value I may
>> try to strap an external 5V supply on and run as a test.
>>
>> At one point using the top switches I was able to change the input
>> mode to VGA, and I am now driving it with a netbook and it gives me a
>> beautiful picture, I just am unable to change it to anything else. An
>> the OSD window for "Main:" stays on the screen. The voltages at P701
>> (top side switch board) are as follows:
>> On (Standby)
>> Orange - 0 (3.77)
>> Blue - 3.74 (3.77)
>> Red - 3.74 (3.77)
>> Green - 3.74 (3.77)
>> Yellow - 3.74 (3.77)
>> Black - 0 (0)
>> Brown - 3.74 (3.77)
>>
>> Has anyone seen similar symptoms with their set? I have no problem
>> dropping money on the replacement supply, I just want some confidence
>> the problem isn't with the motherboard before I invest anything more
>> than my time. No post that I could find described symptoms similar to
>> what I am seeing. Also does anyone have the schematics or repair
>> manual for this set? If so please send me copies via email.
>>
>> All help is appreciated.
>>
>> Stephen
>> playedataritoday@gmail.com

The voltage that you see at 3.74 is almost certainly the 3.3v standby supply
for the system control micro. I would NOT under any circumstances, hit this
rail with 5v. Although it sounds a little high, such rails often are a few
decimals above the 3.3v nominal value. The 23.75v is the 24v nominal supply
for the backlight inverter. Other 12's and 5's are the general supplies for
the analogue and digital circuitry.

Whilst it is true that electrolytics do cause a lot of problems in
switchmode power supplies, I have never been an advocate of just blanket
changing them for the hell of it. It is easy - particularly if you are not
highly skilled with a soldering iron of the right power rating, and with the
right size and shape of tip, to create more problems than you think you are
fixing. By all means, suspect electrolytics - they can be responsible for
some bizarre fault symptoms, although I have to say that this one doesn't
'feel' like an electrolytic problem - but do the proper checks on them
first - that is initially, an ESR check, which in my experience, will find
over 90% of bad caps, followed by looking for hash on the rails with a
'scope. This will find any that have gone low value without their ESR
changing significantly (rare, but it does happen. Much more usually, the
other way round) without having to remove them from the board to check with
a capacitance meter.

Before going any further, I would also check that you haven't got any
problems with any of the user switches sticking or leaking, particularly if
this TV is used anywhere moist or greasy like a kitchen. I have a 'cheapo'
LCD in my kitchen, and from time to time, the volume 'UP' button gets leaky,
and the volume then goes up and up, until you rush over and switch off. When
it's doing it, a couple of buttons still work, but most are locked out. How
the micro responds to this type of fault condition, depends a lot on whether
it is a 'straight' xxx by yyy switch matrix connected to a pair of digital
ports, or a series switch - R - switch setup, connected to an ADC input on
the micro. With this type of arrangement, I have also had leaky decoupling
caps along the chain, causing the micro to sense erroneous 'button push'
conditions. Good luck with it. Try to use a structured and disciplined
approach to troubleshooting the problem, and try to avoid shotgunning
component groups, unless you are confident that you have one or more
problems among them, and are totally confident in your soldering abilities.

Arfa

>

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 2:43 am
From: JW

On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 21:44:43 -0800 (PST) stratus46@yahoo.com wrote in
Message id:
<1eb54851-2a5d-47ad-82b9-3664e04c579f@t35g2000yqj.googlegroups.com>:

>I bet you're wrong on the capacitor issue. I replace so many caps at
>work I'm the 'cap guy' that gets most stuff working again for next to
>nothing. Hints: If a cap looks bad it probably is but if it looks OK
>it may actually be bad. Look for a brown 'mist' around a capacitor.
>Those must be removed, the acid mist cleaned off a a new cap
>installed. It will often have a 'fishy' odor. Without the mist it may
>still be bad and look fine. The high voltage (300-500Volt) caps rarely
>fail. The 22 -100uF low voltage caps frequently fail and the worst are
>surface mount 'lytics. I replace LOTS of those. Many times a 'lytic
>will have a ceramic in parallel. This might look OK on the tester
>(Cheapest I know of is the MAT Electronics MUL-3333 at $50) as the
>meter is seeing the ceramic but the 'lytic is bad. Only way to verify
>is to remove the cap and test it by itself.

Very true, which has me wondering. I've been watching these "Nano" scopes
on Ebay - see
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190399216030&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

While pretty much useless for most tasks given their limited bandwidth and
sampling rate, I wonder if they'd be good for checking ripple across
electrolytics? Since they're battery powered, you could use them in hot
circuits. Has anyone used one of these scopes for this?

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 7:28 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

JW wrote:
>
> On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 21:44:43 -0800 (PST) stratus46@yahoo.com wrote in
> Message id:
> <1eb54851-2a5d-47ad-82b9-3664e04c579f@t35g2000yqj.googlegroups.com>:
>
> >I bet you're wrong on the capacitor issue. I replace so many caps at
> >work I'm the 'cap guy' that gets most stuff working again for next to
> >nothing. Hints: If a cap looks bad it probably is but if it looks OK
> >it may actually be bad. Look for a brown 'mist' around a capacitor.
> >Those must be removed, the acid mist cleaned off a a new cap
> >installed. It will often have a 'fishy' odor. Without the mist it may
> >still be bad and look fine. The high voltage (300-500Volt) caps rarely
> >fail. The 22 -100uF low voltage caps frequently fail and the worst are
> >surface mount 'lytics. I replace LOTS of those. Many times a 'lytic
> >will have a ceramic in parallel. This might look OK on the tester
> >(Cheapest I know of is the MAT Electronics MUL-3333 at $50) as the
> >meter is seeing the ceramic but the 'lytic is bad. Only way to verify
> >is to remove the cap and test it by itself.
>
> Very true, which has me wondering. I've been watching these "Nano" scopes
> on Ebay - see
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190399216030&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
>
> While pretty much useless for most tasks given their limited bandwidth and
> sampling rate, I wonder if they'd be good for checking ripple across
> electrolytics? Since they're battery powered, you could use them in hot
> circuits. Has anyone used one of these scopes for this?

It says the input is DC coupled. You need AC coupling, or a very
wide adjustment of the vertical position to see just the ripple.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Faulty ALL Function on Comcast Remote Control
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/63a8d7f0e7826834?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 2:37 am
From: JW

On Fri, 19 Nov 2010 18:20:21 -0500 "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in Message id:
<6NudnaKr79-nm3rRnZ2dnUVZ_qCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:

>
>jeff_wisnia wrote:
>>
>> The "ALL" button on my Comcast "Custom 3 Device Remote Control" has
>> stopped working properly and only switches the cable box on and off, but
>> no longer controls the TV.
>>
>> It's not a "synchronization" problem, I know how to fix that.
>>
>> When I press the ALL button, only the "Cable" button lights, and it
>> blinks 3 times.
>>
>> I have to press the "TV" button and then the "Power" button to turn the
>> TV on or off.
>>
>> I can also turn the cable box on or off by pressing the "Cable" button
>> and then the "Power" button.
>>
>> I can't find anything in the Remote Control manual describing this
>> faulty action of the "ALL" button.
>
>
> Let them fix the problem, since you're paying them for the service.

Yeah, but it's Comcast. It'll take three trips for the tech to figure out
what's wrong. Each trip wasting 4 hours of your time since they can never
give an exact time of when they'll come.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 4:16 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Let them fix the problem, since you're paying them
>> for the service.

> Yeah, but it's Comcast. It'll take three trips for the tech
> to figure out what's wrong. Each trip wasting 4 hours of
> your time since they can never give an exact time when
> they'll come.

Based on my suggestion, the OP resolved the problem several days ago.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 7:25 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

JW wrote:
>
> Yeah, but it's Comcast. It'll take three trips for the tech to figure out
> what's wrong. Each trip wasting 4 hours of your time since they can never
> give an exact time of when they'll come.

You can't just exchange the remote over the counter?

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PbF policy China and USA ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b8efc11f6f38d33?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 5:53 am
From: "N_Cook"

Unlikely joint failure at the pins as they are set in ring-barb hank bushes.
Monolithic, not hybrid, I decided to crack this one open , not much to see
other than smoke staining and strong smell of smoke.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 23 2010 12:13 am
From: "N_Cook"

I reckon it was probably slack h/s clamp. Although not noticably loose on
undoing, there is no permanent deformation of the silipad on this one
(unlike its companion TDA). Clamp is 3:1 ratio cantilever U section steel,
ratio the wrong way and no star washer or equivalent under the retaining
bolt heads

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TOPIC: Aerotech Syncrolase 100 Stabilized HeNe Laser
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b7ebdae99c6f180?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 1:29 pm
From: Peter

I just inherited an Aerotech stabilized HeNe laser, model100A, vintage
1996. The laser power supply is included (RED/BLU 12V input /Hi-V
output w/ white Alden connector),but there's no other power supply.
The stabilization "head" has two "connectored" twisted-pair leads (one
GRN/BRN and one RED/BLU) but there are no markings to indicate voltage
or current draw. There is also no LED in the hole marked "Stable/OT"
on the side of the stabilization head.

The laser runs fine with 12V into its RED/BLU leads, so my question is
about the stabilizer. Due to a tight strain-relief I wasn't able to
get the lid all the way off, but from what I can see the GRN/BRN pair
comes from the PC board contacts that would have been used for the
missing "Stable/OT" LED. So, it looks like they are for remotely
sensing the status.

Sam's very thorough Laser FAQ warns about overheating issues with this
stabilizer, so I'm nervous about fooling around with it until I know
what's what. I'm an optics guy without much electronics know-how, but
on Sam's reverse-engineered schematic I see +12, +Vin and +Vref - tho
I don't know enough to make use of that info. It's a good bet that
the RED/BLU is +12V.

I'm hoping someone can confirm this and also tell me (a) what I should
do with the GRN/BRN leads and (b) how to check/set the over-temp
threshold or whatever it takes to protect from overheating.

Thanks!

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 1:44 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

Peter <pemmel@frontiernet.net> writes:

> I just inherited an Aerotech stabilized HeNe laser, model100A, vintage
> 1996. The laser power supply is included (RED/BLU 12V input /Hi-V
> output w/ white Alden connector),but there's no other power supply.
> The stabilization "head" has two "connectored" twisted-pair leads (one
> GRN/BRN and one RED/BLU) but there are no markings to indicate voltage
> or current draw. There is also no LED in the hole marked "Stable/OT"
> on the side of the stabilization head.

> The laser runs fine with 12V into its RED/BLU leads, so my question is
> about the stabilizer. Due to a tight strain-relief I wasn't able to
> get the lid all the way off, but from what I can see the GRN/BRN pair
> comes from the PC board contacts that would have been used for the
> missing "Stable/OT" LED. So, it looks like they are for remotely
> sensing the status.

> Sam's very thorough Laser FAQ warns about overheating issues with this
> stabilizer, so I'm nervous about fooling around with it until I know
> what's what. I'm an optics guy without much electronics know-how, but
> on Sam's reverse-engineered schematic I see +12, +Vin and +Vref - tho
> I don't know enough to make use of that info. It's a good bet that
> the RED/BLU is +12V.

> I'm hoping someone can confirm this and also tell me (a) what I should
> do with the GRN/BRN leads and (b) how to check/set the over-temp
> threshold or whatever it takes to protect from overheating.

It sounds like it has been modified. There should be a normal
coaxial power connector on the control head. The power input is Vin, needs
to be a couple volts higher than 12 VDC because of the regulator that's inside.
+12 and VRef are generated internally. The Aerotech wall adapters that
are normally used are rated 13 V, 1.3 A (but the actual voltage is higher
at low load).

So the only remaining unknown is polarity. The wire that shows continuity
with the case is the negative.

If the other twisted pair came from the PCB holes for the LED, replace them
with an LED or hang an LED off the end of the wires! I have a vague
recollection that some versions may have a dual color LED but put a normal
one in. If it doesn't light after the output stabilizes, reverse the polarity.

As far as overheating, monitor the operation through when it stabilizes and
make sure it's not too hot. It does run quite warm though. That's normal.
Just shouldn't start smelling bad. :( :) MG claims their version doesn't have
the overheating problem but I don't know if it was ever addressed in the
Aerotech version. Monitor the output on a graphing power meter. It should
lock quite quickly, then may lose lock a couple times over a half hour, but
then remain stable forever.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Punch Down mudular cripmer
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 2:10 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com

I just repaired a laptop modem cable and it wouldn't fit because the two end
pins didn't get pushed in, ev'tho I only used the middle two contacts
anyway. There have to be tools that are smaller (pen sized) than the
plier-type crimpers that let you just push in the contacts. It's funny ever
since I put boots on the connectors, the little clipping tab didn't break so
I didn't notice that the new modem doesn't like my home-crimped connectors. I
couldn't find RJ11 boots and I actually used a medical tubing flange.

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm http://www.facebook.com/vasjpan2
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 4:15 pm
From: RoadRunner

http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2010/11/tsa-pat-down-of-young-boy/

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TOPIC: Learning Electrical Repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b65ce2f782c18000?hl=en
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== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 7:48 pm
From: Bewet Miller

I don't want to pick up another career or spend 20 years learning
electrical repair, but I would like to learn something about this
area.
I don't care for ham radios or tv repair either.
But barring that, I was wondering if anyone knew of any books or web
sites that could help someone learn about this area? I'd like to try
small interesting projects.
I have a basic understanding of electronics, Ohms laws,
resistors/capacitors in parallel v/s series...I guess that is about
it. My practical knowledge is limited to car stereos, amps and
speaker.

I've been looking at sites like instructibles.com and a few others
that have some neat projects but most just jump in over my head. I
have no knowledge of "bread boards" or how to use them, though I have
a general idea of what they are.

I can't solder but I've been trying to learn.
I can't seem to get the solder to "wet" the solder gun or the wires
I'm trying to solder.

It seems like now days everything is just deposable.
A few things I've taken apart have been encased in a resin or epoxy.
What's up with that? Heat dissipation or repair prevention.

Any suggestions or advice would be most appreciated.

Thanks
B

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 11:04 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 11/22/2010 7:48 PM Bewet Miller spake thus:

> I don't want to pick up another career or spend 20 years learning
> electrical repair, but I would like to learn something about this
> area.
> I don't care for ham radios or tv repair either.
> But barring that, I was wondering if anyone knew of any books or web
> sites that could help someone learn about this area? I'd like to try
> small interesting projects.
> I have a basic understanding of electronics, Ohms laws,
> resistors/capacitors in parallel v/s series...I guess that is about
> it. My practical knowledge is limited to car stereos, amps and
> speaker.
>
> I've been looking at sites like instructibles.com and a few others
> that have some neat projects but most just jump in over my head. I
> have no knowledge of "bread boards" or how to use them, though I have
> a general idea of what they are.

How about going to your local library (remember those places that have
those old-fashioned things called "books"?) and checking out a book on
basic electronics. As good a place to start as any.

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 22 2010 11:45 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bewet Miller wrote:
>
> I don't want to pick up another career or spend 20 years learning
> electrical repair, but I would like to learn something about this
> area.
> I don't care for ham radios or tv repair either.
> But barring that, I was wondering if anyone knew of any books or web
> sites that could help someone learn about this area? I'd like to try
> small interesting projects.
> I have a basic understanding of electronics, Ohms laws,
> resistors/capacitors in parallel v/s series...I guess that is about
> it. My practical knowledge is limited to car stereos, amps and
> speaker.
>
> I've been looking at sites like instructibles.com and a few others
> that have some neat projects but most just jump in over my head. I
> have no knowledge of "bread boards" or how to use them, though I have
> a general idea of what they are.
>
> I can't solder but I've been trying to learn.
> I can't seem to get the solder to "wet" the solder gun or the wires
> I'm trying to solder.

Then use a soldering IRON. A soldering gun is for crude work.

> It seems like now days everything is just deposable.
> A few things I've taken apart have been encased in a resin or epoxy.
> What's up with that? Heat dissipation or repair prevention.

Waterproofing.

> Any suggestions or advice would be most appreciated.

news:sci.electronics.basics

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

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