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* HP C5280 3 in 1, no more scan... - 9 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cd5296742aab5afd?hl=en
* Shure M105E phono cartridge - 3 messages, 3 authors
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* Why the same price with and withtout an antenna amp? - 3 messages, 2 authors
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* WTB Instruction manual for Panasonic Talking Clock Radio RC6900 - 1 messages,
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: HP C5280 3 in 1, no more scan...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cd5296742aab5afd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 12:40 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bernard wrote:
>
> Hey everybody,
>
> i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280. The lamp is
> turned on, it moves, but the result is grey... I have not found on
> internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
> with i think, 3 color leds inside....
> It seems to be a widespread issue concerning scanners,
> can somebody give me some tips about the way it is working ?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> xcuse for my approximate english :o(

Install the latest drivers.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 1:01 pm
From: Bernard

Le 17/11/2010 21:40, :
>
> Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Hey everybody,
>>
>> i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280. The lamp is
>> turned on, it moves, but the result is grey... I have not found on
>> internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
>> with i think, 3 color leds inside....
>> It seems to be a widespread issue concerning scanners,
>> can somebody give me some tips about the way it is working ?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> xcuse for my approximate english :o(
>
>
> Install the latest drivers.
>
>
Sorry,

drivers are up to date (from HP support site...)
i'm quite sure it's an issue with the lamp and more accurately power
supply of that lamp, so i need schematics of a basic scanner lamp power
supply to go further in my knowledge

Thanks however, for the quick answer

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 1:08 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bernard wrote:
>
> Le 17/11/2010 21:40, :
> >
> > Bernard wrote:
> >>
> >> Hey everybody,
> >>
> >> i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280. The lamp is
> >> turned on, it moves, but the result is grey... I have not found on
> >> internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
> >> with i think, 3 color leds inside....
> >> It seems to be a widespread issue concerning scanners,
> >> can somebody give me some tips about the way it is working ?
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance.
> >>
> >> xcuse for my approximate english :o(
> >
> >
> > Install the latest drivers.
> >
> >
> Sorry,
>
> drivers are up to date (from HP support site...)
> i'm quite sure it's an issue with the lamp and more accurately power
> supply of that lamp, so i need schematics of a basic scanner lamp power
> supply to go further in my knowledge

The lamp is suspect before the power supply. It is a CCFL, similar
to those in LCD monitors & TVs. The first sign of a CCFL bad power
supply is usually no output.

> Thanks however, for the quick answer.

You're welcome. I may have one for parts, but I would have to look
for it. It looks familiar, but I'm not sure, and I have over 100
boneyard printers right now.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 1:25 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 21:30:56 +0100, Bernard wrote:

> Hey everybody,
>
> i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280. The lamp is
> turned on, it moves, but the result is grey... I have not found on
> internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
> with i think, 3 color leds inside.... It seems to be a widespread issue
> concerning scanners, can somebody give me some tips about the way it is
> working ?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> xcuse for my approximate english :o(

If the lamp (led indirect exposure) seems to illuminate normally then
the image pickup (CCD) is bad or it has no source voltage. Probably
something you'll need some service literature to further troubleshoot.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 1:31 pm
From: Bernard

Le 17/11/2010 22:08, :
>
> Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Le 17/11/2010 21:40, :
>>>
>>> Bernard wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hey everybody,
>>>>
>>>> i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280. The lamp is
>>>> turned on, it moves, but the result is grey... I have not found on
>>>> internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
>>>> with i think, 3 color leds inside....
>>>> It seems to be a widespread issue concerning scanners,
>>>> can somebody give me some tips about the way it is working ?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>>
>>>> xcuse for my approximate english :o(
>>>
>>>
>>> Install the latest drivers.
>>>
>>>
>> Sorry,
>>
>> drivers are up to date (from HP support site...)
>> i'm quite sure it's an issue with the lamp and more accurately power
>> supply of that lamp, so i need schematics of a basic scanner lamp power
>> supply to go further in my knowledge
>
>
> The lamp is suspect before the power supply. It is a CCFL, similar
> to those in LCD monitors & TVs. The first sign of a CCFL bad power
> supply is usually no output.
>
>
>> Thanks however, for the quick answer.
>
>
> You're welcome. I may have one for parts, but I would have to look
> for it. It looks familiar, but I'm not sure, and I have over 100
> boneyard printers right now.
>
>
I firstly thought about a lamp issue, but i don't see how to be sure of
that... so my idea was to check voltages... but i have no idea of what i
have to find... I only known it's based on 3 colors, are those 3 colors
leds building the whole lamp and is the power supply common for those 3
colors??? 'cause it seems strange not to have at least one or two
color(s) and a shape resulting of my scan... but may be am i... "� cot�
de la plaque" (in french ;o)) don't known how to say that in english...
(may be out of ...something....)

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 1:45 pm
From: Bernard

Le 17/11/2010 22:25, :
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 21:30:56 +0100, Bernard wrote:
>
>> Hey everybody,
>>
>> i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280. The lamp is
>> turned on, it moves, but the result is grey... I have not found on
>> internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
>> with i think, 3 color leds inside.... It seems to be a widespread issue
>> concerning scanners, can somebody give me some tips about the way it is
>> working ?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> xcuse for my approximate english :o(
>
> If the lamp (led indirect exposure) seems to illuminate normally then
> the image pickup (CCD) is bad or it has no source voltage. Probably
> something you'll need some service literature to further troubleshoot.
>
>
>
my searches are going on... thanks... i'll try to give you feedback
about this experience

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 6:07 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 21:30:56 +0100, Bernard <hdunor.22@free.fr> wrote:

>i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280.

<http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=3204464>

>The lamp is
>turned on, it moves, but the result is grey...

Wrong choice of TWAIN driver.
HP usually supplies 2 or 3, some of which produce rather
bizarre results. I've also seen all gray photos when the
scanner software settings are mangled, such set to 1 bit
B&W gray scale scanning. If it were all black, or all white,
I might suspect a hardware problem, but gray requires that
the imager is working.

>I have not found on
>internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
>with i think, 3 color leds inside....

I think it's a CCFL tube, but I'm not sure. If you see white light,
it's working.

>It seems to be a widespread issue concerning scanners,

Huh? I couldn't find any references to that specific problem.

>can somebody give me some tips about the way it is working ?

Move the scanner to another computer. Install only the HP scanner
driver, not the entire mess of useless paint and photo album software.
Try again.

If that fixes the problem, uninstall the HP software completely.
Then use Windoze Installer Cleanup Tool to remove the settings from
the registry:
<http://www.thewindowsclub.com/microsoft-retires-windows-installer-cleanup-utility>
Note that this is allegedly a dangerous tool that was withdrawn by
Microsoft. I've used it about 30 times on 30 different systems and
only experienced a problem when I tried to use it to clean up the mess
left by uninstalling the various dot.Net mutations.

>xcuse for my approximate english :o(

Vous parlez mieux l'anglais que moi le fran�ais.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 8:42 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 21:30:56 +0100, Bernard <hdunor.22@free.fr> wrote:
>
> >i've a problem when scanning/copying with my HP C5280.
>
> <http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=3204464>
>
> >The lamp is
> >turned on, it moves, but the result is grey...
>
> Wrong choice of TWAIN driver.
> HP usually supplies 2 or 3, some of which produce rather
> bizarre results. I've also seen all gray photos when the
> scanner software settings are mangled, such set to 1 bit
> B&W gray scale scanning. If it were all black, or all white,
> I might suspect a hardware problem, but gray requires that
> the imager is working.
>
> >I have not found on
> >internet (or badly searched) the principle of this lamp's power supply
> >with i think, 3 color leds inside....
>
> I think it's a CCFL tube, but I'm not sure. If you see white light,
> it's working.
>
> >It seems to be a widespread issue concerning scanners,
>
> Huh? I couldn't find any references to that specific problem.
>
> >can somebody give me some tips about the way it is working ?
>
> Move the scanner to another computer. Install only the HP scanner
> driver, not the entire mess of useless paint and photo album software.
> Try again.
>
> If that fixes the problem, uninstall the HP software completely.
> Then use Windoze Installer Cleanup Tool to remove the settings from
> the registry:
> <http://www.thewindowsclub.com/microsoft-retires-windows-installer-cleanup-utility>
> Note that this is allegedly a dangerous tool that was withdrawn by
> Microsoft. I've used it about 30 times on 30 different systems and
> only experienced a problem when I tried to use it to clean up the mess
> left by uninstalling the various dot.Net mutations.

Have you ever used Revo Uninstaller?

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 11:35 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 23:42:17 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

> Have you ever used Revo Uninstaller?

<http://www.revouninstaller.com>
No, I've never tried it (or needed it). It's also licensed by the
computer, which is useless for a service shop.

When I have a program that won't uninstall, it's often possible to
re-install the program from original media (or latest version from
their web site), reboot, and then uninstall it. That usually takes
care of any registry damage. Many programs have a brute force
installed available from the vendor. All the virus scanning programs
have these because the damage caused by a virus attempting to trash
the virus scanner usually affects the ability to uninstall and
reinstall. If I have a major registry problem, I use a variety of
registry cleaners, and a few cheap registry editors. Manual editing
is not fun, but I've had good luck with it if the automatic tools
fail.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Shure M105E phono cartridge
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4f8b232551a3984f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 4:05 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 11/17/2010 11:07 AM Meat Plow spake thus:

> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 10:58:40 -0800, David Nebenzahl wrote:
>
>> On 11/17/2010 2:37 AM N_Cook spake thus:
>>
>>> Faced with the OP situation I would suspect an owner has removed a
>>> connector using pliers and has twisted the pin in the plastic and so
>>> internal broken wire at the output. I would .5mm disc grind in and/or
>>> melt in around a suspect pin. Then consider chucking if break is within
>>> a coil, but would certainly explore the construction because I don't
>>> think I've seen inside a magnestic cartridge.
>>
>> See? See? What did I tell you?
>
> You're what, 11 years old?

Hmm, that's odd: I remember you posting earlier in this thread:

> N. Cook obsession noted. And laughed until breathless at.

Guess we just caught you in an off moment, eh?

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 5:20 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"David Nebenzahl" <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4ce425c5$0$2536$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> On 11/17/2010 2:37 AM N_Cook spake thus:
>
>> Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:517788e842dave@davenoise.co.uk...
>>
>>> In article <4ce31382$0$2548$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>, David
>>> Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 11/16/2010 2:41 PM Tim Schwartz spake thus:
>>>>
>>>>> I've got a customer's turntable here with a Shure M105E
>>>>> p-mount cartridge in it. The stylus is fine, but the cartridge
>>>>> itself has an open winding. I've seen this in Audio Technica
>>>>> and Grado cartridges over the years, but never before in a
>>>>> Shure. Any chance you've got a good body without a stylus
>>>>> you'd part with? (In the USA preferred. I'll gladly pay
>>>>> shipping.)
>>>>
>>>> Cue N. Cook with nonsense about opening up cartridge and
>>>> repairing open winding ... or at least endless speculation about
>>>> *why* it failed ...
>>>
>>> Not quite sure why you find this something to jibe at. I love
>>> trying to fix things which most would simply replace. Gives a great
>>> deal of satisfaction putting one over on the makers.
>>
>> Faced with the OP situation I would suspect an owner has removed a
>> connector using pliers and has twisted the pin in the plastic and so
>> internal broken wire at the output. I would .5mm disc grind in and/or
>> melt in around a suspect pin. Then consider chucking if break is
>> within a coil, but would certainly explore the construction because I
>> don't think I've seen inside a magnestic cartridge.
>
> See? See? What did I tell you?
>
> Look; I'm as DIY as anybody. I've fixed, or at least have tried to fix,
> all kinds of things, some of which many people would consider hopeless.
>
> But I recognize there are limits. N. Cook does not.
>
> Repair a lousy magnetic cartridge? Are you serious? I'll bet he would
> actually get out his .5mm disc grinder if this equipment landed in his
> "shop". Sheesh.
>
> Hey, he's free to broadcast the results of his bodgering here as much as
> he likes. I'm free to ridicule him. See how that works?
>
>
> --

Yeah, we see, David. But be careful. These things have a habit of
boomeranging right around, to bite you on the arse ... :-)

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Nov 18 2010 12:12 am
From: "N_Cook"

David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
news:4ce425c5$0$2536$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
> On 11/17/2010 2:37 AM N_Cook spake thus:
>
> > Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:517788e842dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> >
> >> In article <4ce31382$0$2548$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
> >> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> >>
> >>> On 11/16/2010 2:41 PM Tim Schwartz spake thus:
> >>>
> >>>> I've got a customer's turntable here with a Shure M105E
> >>>> p-mount cartridge in it. The stylus is fine, but the cartridge
> >>>> itself has an open winding. I've seen this in Audio Technica
> >>>> and Grado cartridges over the years, but never before in a
> >>>> Shure. Any chance you've got a good body without a stylus
> >>>> you'd part with? (In the USA preferred. I'll gladly pay
> >>>> shipping.)
> >>>
> >>> Cue N. Cook with nonsense about opening up cartridge and
> >>> repairing open winding ... or at least endless speculation about
> >>> *why* it failed ...
> >>
> >> Not quite sure why you find this something to jibe at. I love
> >> trying to fix things which most would simply replace. Gives a great
> >> deal of satisfaction putting one over on the makers.
> >
> > Faced with the OP situation I would suspect an owner has removed a
> > connector using pliers and has twisted the pin in the plastic and so
> > internal broken wire at the output. I would .5mm disc grind in and/or
> > melt in around a suspect pin. Then consider chucking if break is
> > within a coil, but would certainly explore the construction because I
> > don't think I've seen inside a magnestic cartridge.
>
> See? See? What did I tell you?
>
> Look; I'm as DIY as anybody. I've fixed, or at least have tried to fix,
> all kinds of things, some of which many people would consider hopeless.
>
> But I recognize there are limits. N. Cook does not.
>
> Repair a lousy magnetic cartridge? Are you serious? I'll bet he would
> actually get out his .5mm disc grinder if this equipment landed in his
> "shop". Sheesh.
>
> Hey, he's free to broadcast the results of his bodgering here as much as
> he likes. I'm free to ridicule him. See how that works?
>
>
> --
> The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
> with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.
>
> - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

This usenet group is called sci.electronics.repair not how you would like it
sci.electronics.chuck_it_and_buy_new

==============================================================================
TOPIC: paypal payment Uggs on Sales, Wholesale Ugg Boots, Women Ugg Boots, Ugg
Classic
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/be14c9702cc08c9f?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why the same price with and withtout an antenna amp?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9162c2bb89bfe618?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 6:47 pm
From: mm

On Mon, 15 Nov 2010 12:30:29 -0800, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:

>In article <khj1e6dq6va55j4iglsrvpb1f28rbcli85@4ax.com>,
>mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
>>Not a repair question, so maybe this is OT, but...
>>
>>Why do you suppose at solidstate.com, the Winegard MS 1000 antenna,
>>which doesn't include an amplifier, costs the same as the Winegard MS
>>2000 which does have a built-in amplifier 60 dollars. This is a
>>round omnidirectional antenna that looks like a flying saucer.

Thanks Bill and Jeff. I'll reply just here if it's okay.

>The MSRP of the MS-2000 is $110, while the MSRP of the MS-1000 is $70.
>SolidSignal is offering a much greater discount on the MS-2000 at the
>moment.
>
>I don't know why the MS-2000 is so heavily discounted... the commonest
>reason for this is probably "We bought too many, we need to reduce our
>stock, so let's blow them out at just barely above our cost."

Maybe. That would answer the question, which intrigued me
intellectually.

>>FWIW, the 2000 even includes 50 feet of cable that the one without the
>>amp doesn't include.
>>
>>Does that mean the amp in the one with an amp is really cheap?
>>
>>Does that in turn mean that one of the amps they sell for 50 or 60
>>dollars without an antenna is many times better?
>
>Not necessarily. The antenna units themselves are the same diameter,
>same height, and probably have very similar gain and directivity
>patterns (i.e. not much and not much). They may even be identical
>except for the labels printed on the outside.
>
>>Does that mean one should buy the one without the amp and then get a
>>separate amp if necessary?
>
>Could be. However, you'd probably need to pay substantially more in
>order to get a really high-quality amplifier.

Okay, that's still a possibility for later.

Actually, I just installed a RAdio Shack signal amp, that I found on
their discount table marked down from 55 to 8 dollars I thought it
might overload the signal, so I put a small tv in the attic just to
check this on at least one local network station that it was tuned to.
AFAICT it had no difference on that station, or when I got back to my
bedroom, any of the others.

It also has a pot that is supposed to lessen the amplification, but
that had no effect either. I told myself that my DVDR tuner overcomes
overloaded signals, but the marginal stations are probably no stronger
either, so I guess the thing is broken. Even though the green LED goes
on. It didn't look like a return, but maybe it was. (Because there
other sale stuff was more like 50% off.)

I suppose you guys would check this by connecting an oscilloscope to a
tv co-ax, and compare that with the output after the same co-ax input
goes through the amp. Should I do that? I have an old Heathkit or
was there EicoKit oscilloscope that I bought usedn and have never
managed to use much.

>TV amplifiers are very much a mixed blessing. A mast-mounted amp can
>help overcome the signal loss in the cable going down to the house,
>and may enable you to use a passive splitter to divide the signal
>among multiple TVs or DVRs or VCRs.

I was planning to do that as a next step, at least to tvs in two
upstairs rooms.

> However, such amplifiers have
>serious limitations:
>
>- They don't do anything to help overcome the effects of multipath
> reflections (i.e. the signal from the transmitter reaching your
> antenna via several different paths, due to reflections off of
> buildings and trees and planes and etc.). Multipath causes
> ghosting on analog TV channels, and can cause abrupt signal
> dropouts and "macroblocking" on digital TV channels. Since an amp
> can't distinguish between the different signal echoes on a given
> channel, it doesn't help matters.
>
>- Amplifiers can be subject to strong-signal overload, which generates
> internal distortion and can make the signal quality at the TV worse
> than it would be without an amp. This can be an issue if you have
> any sort of strong VHF or UHF transmitter in your area... a nearby
> TV station tower, a ham radio operator, a police or fire station,
> etc.

Somewhere I got an adjustable signal attenuator that I could put in
the antenna circuit.
>
>- Amplifiers add their own noise to the signal.

Ugh.

>A really high-quality TV amp will have bandpass and band-reject
>filters tuned to allow only TV-band signals into the amplifying
>electronics (filtering out unwanted signals before they saturate the
>amp), will have a good low-noise, high-dynamic-range amplifying
>transistor or chip, and will have only as much gain as you really need
>to pull in the stations you're trying to boost.

There is a whole set of 5 stations in DC that have foreign country
broadcasts, that I can get late at night but not at all or just for a
second or two during the day. Plus another set of 4 stations I can
get sometimes. I was hoping to get these all the time. Plus the NBC
station in DC when Baltimore has some local sporting event on. Except
for NBC, I didn't even know about them before I got the antenna for
the attic (I can't more it to a pole or tower.)

>Most cheap amps have little or no filtering, and a single MMIC
>amplifier chip which may have too much noise, too little dynamic
>range, or too much gain for your signal environment.
>
>In general, I think you'd get the best results if you were to buy a
>*directional* antenna, put it up high on a mast, and use a
>remote-controlled rotator to aim it at the station you want to receive
>at any given point in time.

I bought a fairly big directional antenna, put it as high as my
situation allows, and when I had a smaller rotating antenna, I soon
got tired of rotating it. In addtion to the current antenna, I was
considering the 2000 that started this thread, which is
omnidirectional and should improve reception for the local stations
that the big antenna doesn't point to.

>
>If aiming isn't possible, and you have to use an omnidirectional
>antenna such as these "flying saucer" types, I'd suggest mounting it
>up in the clear (well away from trees), as high as you can manage
>given your situation, *without* using an amplifier... and then see if
>you get acceptable signal quality at your TV. If not, lower it and
>add the amplifer (right below the antenna, not down at the TV!) and
>see if this helps matters. If even this doesn't help, you'll need a
>better antenna (one with directional gain) and a rotator.
>
>I think you might as well buy the MS-2000... it's probably basically
>the same antenna internally as the MS-1000, and you'll get the cable
>and amplifier "for free" due to the current heavy discount on the
>price.

Sounds good to me. If worst comes to worst, I can put an attenuator
in the co-ax to the tuner, or I can bypass the amp electrically.

FTR, I later noticed another flying saucer antenna that is directional
and rotates and has a memory of which direction it should point for
which station. Wow!!! But it's about 150 dollars. My browser is
jambed up right now or I'd tell you the name and model.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 8:45 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

mm wrote:
>
> I suppose you guys would check this by connecting an oscilloscope to a
> tv co-ax, and compare that with the output after the same co-ax input
> goes through the amp. Should I do that? I have an old Heathkit or
> was there EicoKit oscilloscope that I bought usedn and have never
> managed to use much.

It is of no use at TV frequencies. You need either a TV Field
Strength Meter, or a Spectrum Analyzer.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist! I m just a very ticked
off scientist!!!

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 9:01 pm
From: mm

On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 23:45:07 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
>mm wrote:
>>
>> I suppose you guys would check this by connecting an oscilloscope to a
>> tv co-ax, and compare that with the output after the same co-ax input
>> goes through the amp. Should I do that? I have an old Heathkit or
>> was there EicoKit oscilloscope that I bought usedn and have never
>> managed to use much.
>
>
> It is of no use at TV frequencies. You need either a TV Field
>Strength Meter, or a Spectrum Analyzer.

Thanks. I didn't really want to do it anyhow.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: WTB Instruction manual for Panasonic Talking Clock Radio RC6900
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/786a446c21d64df3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 8:25 pm
From: Gman

If you know where I can get a copy of this manual I would be most
grateful.

TIA,
Lew

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How do I know if an amp goes both ways?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f02a76c8c0ab701c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 9:29 pm
From: mm

How do I know if a tv signal amplifier** will also transmit IR signals
or maybe they are converted IR signals in the opposite direction?
**Like is used to go from a VCR to an distant analog TV, especially if
there were signal-weakening splitters for other tvs in between. I'm
using either Gemini signal amps, or amp/splitters or something that
looks just like them. I want to use my IR remote control and shine
it at a target on the TV, which will then relay the signal back
through the amp and to the PVR or VCR, and allow me to change
channels, for example, from another room.

Do you know either which amps will do this, or how I can test it short
of setting up the whole setup? Or do you know what words describe
what I want, so I can google them?

Tnanks.

Background:
In May UCLAN told me about the Channelplus modulator model 5425 that
would modulate a digital tv signal to any of a 80 or 100 analog
channels, not just channels 3 or 4. No real need to look at it, but
here it is http://www.channelplus.com/product_detail.php?productId=225

And I was gradually getting ready to buy one when I read that models
5525 and 5545 also will also transmit IR signals back from the TV to
the tuner. And that would help me a lot, but then it occurred to me
that I'd probably have to use Channelplus's amplifier. (That's
another 150 dollars, plus it means installing home runs to every tv,
even the ones whose co-ax is snaked through the basement ceiling, and
the ones whose wires in the attic are now covered with plywood. I'm
25 years older and 50 pounds heavier than when I did this the first
time, and it took a long time then, so I'd like to not do it. Plus I'm
afraid if I enlarge the holes in the floors or ceiling with a 10"
drill bit, I'll drill into the co-ax that is already there.)

So I called Channelplus and asked them if it had to be their amp, and
instead of saying "Yes, it has to be an amp we make", he said it
depended on the voltage and amperage of the amp and they couldn't
guarantee it. That sounds like some will work, but I don't know how
to figure out which one's will.

Do you either know which amps will do this, or know how I can test it
short of setting up the whole setup? Or do you know what words
describe what I want, so I can google them?

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Self-Repair Manifesto
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/047741f126542a73?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Nov 17 2010 9:50 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I think you're dreaming of $10 service manuals for plasma TVs in the year
2010.

You got lucky in being able to obtain a service manual, from whatever
source.
Maybe you'll realize it was luck, when you see another golden opportunity,
but no service literature is available.

I know when service literature isn't available, a project turns into a
research project.. and I believe many others have BTDT too.

There were test equipment manufacturers that would send a free schematic for
obsolete equipment years ago.. but even BK Precision, Beckman and numerous
others wouldn't even send a owner/user guide for free, and that was going
back quite a few years.

I was in the repair/service industry for years, and I know what dealing with
the public is like, and it's not worth the aggravation, for any price,
especially now when consumer goods manufacturers don't support their
products.

Apparently, you get bent out of shape easily.
I was only saying that I won't work on the cheap new crap, despite having a
good deal of test and repair equipment, because I prefer not to.
The equipment is for my own use, since I won't do repairs for anyone other
than a few close friends.
But I'll tell them to throw away their $40 VCR, because I'm not interested
in using up my time on such things.
So what if I do own several pieces of hot air equipment? It's just for my
convenience, so I don't need to improvise a method to remove a part, not
that I would be lost without it.. I've improvised in the past, and having
better equipment definitely beats improvising.. again, BTDT.

You didn't really make a point about those tiny, micro-sized SMT components
that populate most boards now.. ICs aren't difficult to see or replace.

I also said I prefer to buy older stuff, because it is more easily
repairable, and I do maintain my own stuff.
Marantz, Sony, and others, don't send free service manuals, although there
are very affordable third party suppliers.. eBay sellers that have used or
scanned manuals, (whether legally or not.. I don't know).

Teac Aerospace Division, purchased by Goodrich, doesn't supply service
manuals, or any systems related literature. I don't think I'd even be able
to find an agent or service center to buy spare parts from.
There are a multitude of other manufacturers, which don't make cheap
consumer goods, that don't sell or provide product documentation to any
outside agents.

But you're correct.. all that one needs to repair anything electronic, is a
soldering iron and the exceptional sense which you possess.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

<PlainBill47@yawho.com> wrote in message
news:7f38e6t5o5o7p7k7f233l5790rqbo339of@4ax.com...
> No, the TV was not free. I have enough confidence in my skills that I
> was willing to pay the seller's asking price for it. I'm not sure
> where you came up with that $60-$100 price for a service manual; My
> experience was that $10 was a more typical price, although one major
> manufacturer sent them out free upon letterhead request. Your
> assertion that I got lucky is pure bullshit - I KNEW the service
> manual was available. But that is beside the point, many service
> manuals are available at litte or no cost. Other equipment (LCD
> monitors, for example) is simple enough that a service manual isn't
> necessary.
>
> I agree, a hot air station would make the rework easier, so what? The
> fact is that a $15 kit of SolderQuik will substitute for your fancy
> hot air system.
>
> All told, you have proved my point. SMT does not make repair
> impossible; I know it makes repair easier. Certainly it was easier to
> replace the three SMT ICs than it would have been to replace the
> larger through-hole devices.
>
> Further, you have verified my other belief. It's not the cost of the
> equipment that makes the difference, it's the brains of the person
> using it.
>
> PlainBill
>>.............
>>
>>
>><PlainBill47@yawho.com> wrote in message
>>news:lsh5e6psn3od195kssu3o11l7u8enlr1of@4ax.com...
>>> On Mon, 15 Nov 2010 17:37:11 -0500, "Charles"
>>> <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
>>>>news:ku5vd69620loo76cngf77dc4k9lhnpol6u@4ax.com...
>>>>
>>>><http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto>
>>>>
>>>>Sorry, but the year is 2010 and repair of recent and future electronic
>>>>products is not going to happen, as least as what can be accomplished by
>>>>Joe
>>>>consumer. For the factory authorized geek squad, sure they PERHAPS have
>>>>access to data and modules and software and they can, in some cases,
>>>>repair
>>>>electronic items.
>>>>
>>>>I'd love for it be so, by the way. I detest sending stuff to landfills
>>>>and
>>>>to recycling centers. But the truth is that there is not much inside a
>>>>modern electronic gadget that is repairable. SMT has rendered component
>>>>replacement impossible, for many cases. Schematics are no longer
>>>>obtainable. Embedded software makes troubleshooting almost impossible.
>>>>Repair parts are not available. And the list goes on.
>>>>
>>>>Richard Feynman (a Nobel winner) often talked about taking radios apart.
>>>>If
>>>>he would try that now, he would move on to biology.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Wrong on so many counts that it is laughable. SMT devices require new
>>> techniques. ONE example of many similar events. About a year ago I
>>> obtained a 'dead' 50" plasma TV. Plug it in, it tries to turn on,
>>> then the red light on the front panel starts flashing 2 short, 1 long.
>>> Download the service manual (free from Elektrotanya.com), it's
>>> flashing error 12; problem with the 12V supply. Read the service
>>> manual. 12V error may be due to a problem with the audio amp or with
>>> the DC-DC converter. Disconnect the audio amp, no change. Read more
>>> of the service manual. Overloading the 12V supply by the DC-DC
>>> converter may be due to shorted mosfets. In that case, replace both
>>> the mosfets and the controller, all are SMD parts. (The DC-DC-
>>> converter is part of the Small Signal Board, available online for
>>> under $100).
>>>
>>> Order the parts from Digikey, for a total cost of less than $10,
>>> including shipping. Use Chipquick and a soldering iron to remove the
>>> old parts, solder braid to remove the old solder and Chipquick,
>>> install the new parts. Reassemble the TV, cross my fingers, plug it
>>> in. It turns on and works perfectly. Just for luck I verify all
>>> power supply voltages and update it to the latest firmware.
>>>
>>> The biggest problem was moving the 100 lb + monster around.
>>>
>>> I've said this repeatedly, new technology requires new techniques.
>>> The people who claim it's unrepairable either have a vested interest
>>> in selling a new one or are incompetent.
>>>
>>> PlainBill
>

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