http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
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TOPIC: Katie price hot dating videos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/236dca125cc7356c?hl=en
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Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 8:32 am
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TOPIC: RAC Portable Power Station, need DC adaptor spec
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b105b15b5ad9d933?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 8:38 am
From: Meat Plow
On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 11:15:42 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> Andrew Gabriel wrote:
>>
>> In article <BuWdnR_IyNUFF2LRnZ2dnUVZ_jKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes:
>> >
>> >
>> > You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard
>> > in
>> > the US. My truck uses 65 W:
>>
>> The US finally adopted EU vehicle lighting standards after US lighting
>> engineers spent some 20 years pressuring to be able to use the safer,
>> more effective, and more modern EU standards in the US, against the US
>> car manufacturers who didn't want the expense of redesigning their
>> ancient lighting systems and didn't want competition from foreign
>> lighting manufacturers.
>
>
> So, the Philips and Osram lamps are US made?
Who wrote this?
"You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
the US. My truck uses 65 W:"
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 8:45 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"
>> The only method "obvious" (to me) would be to short the cell for a
>> fraction of a second, and use the measured current to calculate the
>> internal resistance. * This, in turn, could be used to estimate the
>> cell's Ah capacity. But this assumes there's a direct correlation of the
>> resistance with the cell's capacity, regardless of its age or charge
>> condition. Is there?
> I *think* that's the way it works. The crock clips have very sharp 'pins'
> to ensure a good contact with the battery terminals.
> But having used mine on a variety of sized batteries it really does seem
> to give a good indication as to the condition rather than just the charge
> state of a battery. In other words if it says a fully charged battery has
> the capacity (in amp.hrs) as stated on the battery it is good. Works
> on batteries from 1.8 - 200 Ah. If it gives a reading of less than 65% of
> that figure, the battery should be replaced. The claim is it simulates a
> 20 hour test in 6 seconds.
Have you checked the results against something like the MAHA C9000, which
actually drains the cell?
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 8:52 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"
In article <_YudndJCh50TnZzQnZ2dnUVZ_rudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
> >
> > In article <99GdnTnMNaKxj53QnZ2dnUVZ_uadnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
> > Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> > > > You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the
> > > > inert gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still
> > > > likely tungsten.
> > > >
> > > > However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55
> > > > watt (EU spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.
> >
> > > So? Just because they use that spec in a backwards,
> > > anti-engineering country is no reason for anyone else to.
> >
> > Crikey. Where did that come from? Hate just admitting your mistake?
> From the current 'Brit Engineering kaput!' thread on
> news:sci.electronics.design where they are discussing why all
> engineering in England has gone to crap. From the public's attitude
> towards engineering, stupid HR staff and brain drain where people with
> talent leave England to work elsewhere.
You really need to see what UK groups say about the US. ;-)
Or perhaps you feel it's not in some similar form of 'decline'? If so, get
your head out of your arse and look around you. At all the Chinese etc
made consumer goods. Same as here. GM bankrupt yet again - despite having
one of the largest markets on its doorstep. Etc.
I'm no 'my country right or wrong' type. I'll leave that to you.
> > > > BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
> > > > 'halogen' lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
> > > > whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above
> > > > base spec.
> >
> > > Sigh. Still can't stick to what you post, can you? First you
> > > claim 55 W tungsten, then it's 35 W HID.
> >
> > Crikey again. Do you actually think before posting?
> Yes, unlike you. You keep comparing apples to crabapples.
Sigh. You're the one doing the comparing - and getting it wrong.
> > > No wonder you believe the hype about your magic toy battery tester.
> > > The actual Ah rating is determined by it's use. That 20 Ah rating
> > > is only one curve, of many. If you stuck to it, you couldn't start
> > > the vehicle's engine with it. you couldn't use most car radios
> > > without exceeding the proper discharge rate. You dismiss the total
> > > starting circuit resistance as nothing.
> >
> > More bollocks. Amp hour and the discharge rate are simply a standard
> > way of *measuring* that parameter. Other battery parameters are given
> > separately. For one who claims to be an engineer, this shouldn't need
> > explaining.
> I know how the damn 'standard' works. It works even better if it has
> a relevant base measurement. Starting a vehicle is a completely
> different function from a standby power application. Other than
> starting the vehicle, little current is drawn from a car's battery if
> the charging system works properly. Therfore a '20 Ah rating' is not
> the proper standard. That is why the US rates a car battery by CCA. A
> worst case condition for starting in cold weather when an engine is
> tight and the lubricants are stiff.
Who are you trying to educate? I'm well aware of the likely loading on a
car battery. UK batteries also give all that information - the Ah one is
in addition.
> Your miracle tester won't find a
> failing batery. I've had several show no signs of trouble that
> developed an open internal connection when you hit the key. Your DMM
> sized miracle box won't find that and give warning, but the old
> controlled discharge testers will.
You really need to do some research before being so certain. Because
you're wrong. My tester will show up a faulty cell - either high impedance
or shorted. Your prehistoric 'controlled discharge' (just an ammeter)
won't - unless you also do other measurements. It also needs skill and
care to use. But perhaps you've never seen a battery blow apart when
having a high discharge test done? I have. My tester doesn't apply the
load until after it is connected.
> > > As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most
> > > US drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't
> > > light the sides of the road well enough to see animals or people
> > > along the side of a road until it's too late. There are a lot of
> > > very long, and high speed roads in the US where you need that extra
> > > illumination.
> >
> > You've never experienced decent HID lamps.
> Most of what I've seen are on imported cars. They tend to blind
> oncoming traffic.
I have no idea of the construction and use regulations in the US. If they
are only fitted to imports, it shows just how far behind the times Detroit
is. FWIW badly set filament lights can dazzle too. Or ones with just plain
poor optical design. HID lamps are much more efficient. If they are
designed to the same light output as 'halogen' you benefit from less
energy use. If similar savings are made elsewhere in a car, you specify a
smaller alternator and cable sizes. Etc.
> > With proper reflector etc design they can provide any beam pattern you
> > want. Mine produce as even illumination as you could possibly want -
> > no high spots at all. They also have a 'spike' at the nearside which
> > illuminates the side of the road rather further than the main part of
> > the beam. They only provide the dip beam - the high beam is by
> > ordinary quartz halogen units, which are in addition to the dips.
--
*We waste time, so you don't have to *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 10:02 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"
In article <idr138$3ia$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> > But having used mine on a variety of sized batteries it really does
> > seem to give a good indication as to the condition rather than just
> > the charge state of a battery. In other words if it says a fully
> > charged battery has the capacity (in amp.hrs) as stated on the battery
> > it is good. Works on batteries from 1.8 - 200 Ah. If it gives a
> > reading of less than 65% of that figure, the battery should be
> > replaced. The claim is it simulates a 20 hour test in 6 seconds.
> Have you checked the results against something like the MAHA C9000, which
> actually drains the cell?
No. I'm only really concerned if a battery is fit for further service.
With a quick check. Which this device does pretty well.
--
*A person who smiles in the face of adversity probably has a scapegoat *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Removing smoking smell out of electronics?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ca206ef62cb0cf13?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 9:31 am
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Thu, 9 Dec 2010 08:42:51 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>Hot air gun ,low heat setting, has removed all gum based stickers that I've
>come across except some 10 year or older that must have some sort of
>chemical welding process into the underlying plastic over time
I damaged a laptop LCD cover while using a hot air gun to remove some
stickers. Hot air works great on metal surfaces (i.e. removing bumper
stickers and pinstriping from automobiles), but I haven't done so well
when I tried it on a laptop. My guess(tm) is that there's
insufficient difference in temperature between where the adhesive
melts, and where the plastic begins to melt.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 2:50 pm
From: Keith
All:
Actually the smell is a cross between some tobacco odor and a musky smell. It is coming from the
inside of the TV especially when it is on. Any ideas about what this could be?
Keith Lee
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 9:44 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Thu, 9 Dec 2010 22:50:36 +0000 (UTC), Keith
<keithdlee2000@gmail.com> wrote:
> Actually the smell is a cross between some tobacco odor and a musky smell. It is coming from the
>inside of the TV especially when it is on. Any ideas about what this could be?
>Keith Lee
Is this a new TV or a fairly old TV? If old, you might ask the seller
where he was living and under what conditions.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Musk>
My guess(tm) is the cancer candidate, that trashed the TV with tobacco
volatiles, was burning exotic tobacco blends, possibly in a wooden
pipe. If so, you have a major cleanup operation ahead.
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
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TOPIC: laptop AC adapter tolerances
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1018ffbe2787d183?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 11:35 am
From: Amanda Ripanykhazov
Any one know what approximate tolerances are on these things please?
I have a laptop without an adapter which takes a 19 volt 3.2 amp
adapter. I have a 20v 6.5 amp one and wonder how much damage it will
do to the laptop if I try to use it?
The unit does not have a battery to charge so this adapter will likely
be plugged in a lot of the time.
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 11:40 am
From: Meat Plow
On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 11:35:31 -0800, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
> Any one know what approximate tolerances are on these things please?
>
> I have a laptop without an adapter which takes a 19 volt 3.2 amp
> adapter. I have a 20v 6.5 amp one and wonder how much damage it will do
> to the laptop if I try to use it?
>
> The unit does not have a battery to charge so this adapter will likely
> be plugged in a lot of the time.
I've used a 90 watt 20 volt adapter on a laptop which requires 19 volts
at 55 watts for maybe 2 years now with no apparent damage. 1 volt isn't
likely to be an issue and the laptop will not consume more power than it
needs.
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 12:20 pm
From: Amanda Ripanykhazov
Thanks for that, I wasnt sure: I knew that the 6A wouldn't be a
problem as the unit doesn't consume any more amps than it needs but
didnt know that if it only needed 19v, the adapter wouldnt just keep
on pumping 20v into it
> I've used a 90 watt 20 volt adapter on a laptop which requires 19 volts
> at 55 watts for maybe 2 years now with no apparent damage. 1 volt isn't
> likely to be an issue and the laptop will not consume more power than it
> needs.
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 2:13 pm
From: Meat Plow
On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 12:20:44 -0800, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
> Thanks for that, I wasnt sure: I knew that the 6A wouldn't be a problem
> as the unit doesn't consume any more amps than it needs but didnt know
> that if it only needed 19v, the adapter wouldnt just keep on pumping 20v
> into it
Regulation on a lot of supplies is within a volt anyway. Unless the
charging/distribution electronics of the laptop are poorly designed
I wouldn't anticipate one extra volt being any problem. I've been using
an HP 20 volt supply on a Toshiba that ran on 19 and like I said no
problems after a couple years. I'm also using a 19 volt Dell supply on an
Asus that takes 19 volts. However when measured the 19 volt supply
outputted almost 20 volts. There are no + - tolerance specs printed on
the side of the supply. If it were plus or minus 5 % that would be pretty
close to one volt either way on 19 volt output.
>> I've used a 90 watt 20 volt adapter on a laptop which requires 19 volts
>> at 55 watts for maybe 2 years now with no apparent damage. 1 volt isn't
>> likely to be an issue and the laptop will not consume more power than
>> it needs.
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 2:55 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"
On Dec 9, 1:35 pm, Amanda Ripanykhazov <dmanzal...@googlemail.com>
wrote:
> Any one know what approximate tolerances are on these things please?
>
> I have a laptop without an adapter which takes a 19 volt 3.2 amp
> adapter. I have a 20v 6.5 amp one and wonder how much damage it will
> do to the laptop if I try to use it?
>
> The unit does not have a battery to charge so this adapter will likely
> be plugged in a lot of the time.
A tolerance of at least 10% would be reasonable, so 19.0 + 1.9 = 19.9
which is almost 20V. 20V - 2.0 V = 18V for the minimum on the 20V
supply, so you should be just fine.
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 5:56 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:a1305490-79ac-4a35-a8bb-2e78569c9d92@k30g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 9, 1:35 pm, Amanda Ripanykhazov <dmanzal...@googlemail.com>
> wrote:
>> Any one know what approximate tolerances are on these things please?
>>
>> I have a laptop without an adapter which takes a 19 volt 3.2 amp
>> adapter. I have a 20v 6.5 amp one and wonder how much damage it will
>> do to the laptop if I try to use it?
>>
>> The unit does not have a battery to charge so this adapter will likely
>> be plugged in a lot of the time.
>
> A tolerance of at least 10% would be reasonable, so 19.0 + 1.9 = 19.9
That was 20.9, when I went to school ... ;-)
Arfa
> which is almost 20V. 20V - 2.0 V = 18V for the minimum on the 20V
> supply, so you should be just fine.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: notebook ac adapter pulsing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ecf886c806181712?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 11:46 am
From: mynick
On Dec 9, 2:37 pm, Chuck <c...@deja.net> wrote:
> On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 10:06:50 -0800 (PST), mynick <anglom...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >The notebook probably will not boot because the adapter output is
> >oscilating approx +/-0.5v
> >the output pi filter capacitors and inductor seem ok and there is same
> >pulsing in front of it -any ideas what may be the cause?There
> >are:nec2501 LK837-?,TL431c-regulator, fch200.. double diode,10n60
> >power mos
> >thanks
>
> If it pulses with no load on it, the problem is most likely an
> electrolytic cap in the primary circuit. If it only pulses with a
> load on it, there could be a short in the notebook. Chuck
Thank you both
besides pulsing you can hear clicking in same rhytm,probably from
transformer since lk837 seems to be optocoupler.
With (non notebook) load output goes down to few volts!!There is also
a controller chip but cannot see which is it
How do you check that real big electolytic capacitor
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Can you fix this?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/628c549cd1770926?hl=en
==============================================================================
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 3:44 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus
On 12/7/2010 10:10 AM, Duh_OZ wrote:
> Deals with repair service scams.
>
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> Estimated house visit and replacement of a 5u4g tube: $4.50.
>
> http://www.archive.org/download/dragnet/Dragnet-Big_Screen.mp3
*laughs* And when he got out of prison, he opened Mark C. Bloom Tires.
Jeff
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