sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ca206ef62cb0cf13?hl=en
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TOPIC: London college girls hot sex videos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d27609191456bb6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 7:45 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: RAC Portable Power Station, need DC adaptor spec
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b105b15b5ad9d933?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 8:00 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <ido68s$msl$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> > BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient
> > "halogen" lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt
> > whatever. They're pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars
> > above base spec.

> Are these those blinding-blue bulbs that rip retinas with flesh-frying
> force? (Note quadruple use of alliteration.)

Dunno. Mine have a colour temperature quite close to filament lamps and a
very sharp cut-off beam pattern. The car also has self levelling
suspension. The earliest versions of them did appear quite 'blue'. Rather
like most 'white' LEDs. ;-)

--
*Income tax service - We�ve got what it takes to take what you've got.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 3:17 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > You still use tungsten headlights in Europe? Halogen are standard in
> > the US. My truck uses 65 W:
>
> You certainly show your ignorance with every post. 'Halogen' is the inert
> gas used in some types of filament lamps. The filament is still likely
> tungsten.
>
> However, none of that makes a difference in this context. A 55 watt (EU
> spec) headlight is a 55 watt headlight.

So? Just because they use that spec in a backwards, anti-engineering
country is no reason for anyone else to.

> BTW, my car has HID units. Far more efficient than those ancient 'halogen'
> lights. 35 watts produces more light than your 65 watt whatever. They're
> pretty well the norm in the UK on new cars above base spec.

Sigh. Still can't stick to what you post, can you? First you claim
55 W tungsten, then it's 35 W HID. No wonder you believe the hype about
your magic toy battery tester. The actual Ah rating is determined by
it's use. That 20 Ah rating is only one curve, of many. If you stuck
to it, you couldn't start the vehicle's engine with it. you couldn't use
most car radios without exceeding the proper discharge rate. You
dismiss the total starting circuit resistance as nothing.

As far as HID lamps, they can be seen a lot further away, but most US
drivers don't like them. You get a brighter spot, but don't light the
sides of the road well enough to see animals or people along the side of
a road until it's too late. There are a lot of very long, and high
speed roads in the US where you need that extra illumination.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Removing smoking smell out of electronics?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ca206ef62cb0cf13?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 9:08 am
From: Jim Yanik

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:clqtf6ha012vbjfvopavvicv9ov0gj5lng@4ax.com:

> On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 01:41:53 +0000 (UTC), Keith
><keithdlee2000@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I just a got great deal on a Samsung 32" HDTV. The only issue is the
>> smoke smell. Is there a way I can
>>get it off and out of my new HDTV without ruining the TV? Thank you.
>>
>>Keith Lee
>
> I've seen one TV stink when new out of the box. I think it was a
> fairly large Vizio, but I don't recall the model number. Near as I
> can guess(tm), it's lint and styrofoam from the packing material
> getting into parts of the PCB that are getting hot. Ignite some
> packing and styrofoam and compare the stench with the TV.
>
> The smell went away after a few days. I tried opening the back and
> removing the crud with an air hose, which turned into a waste of time
> because the lint was baked into the components and would not move.
>
> Some options:
> 1. If it's really a new TV, then it shouldn't stink. Exchange it for
> a different unit. That's what warranties are for.
> 2. Open the back and clean up whatever is stinking. If you happen to
> have a $3000 FLIR infrared imager, you'll be able to see what's
> getting hot or smoking.
> 3. Let it cook for a few days and see what happens. It will either
> fix itself, burn down the house, or create a warranty issue. Check
> your homeowners insurance to see if damage from flaming HDTV's are
> covered. Everything else should be covered by the manufacturers or
> the stores warranty.
>
>

electronics used around smokers develop a smelly grunge film that needs to
be WASHED OFF,and then dried for several days,preferably in a drying oven.
I did a lot of that while I was at Tektronix.
It sometimes was so thick that you could see the brownish yellow gunk
running off as you rinsed the unit.

that gunk also attracts and hold other dirt and grime.it's NASTY.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 10:36 am
From: whit3rd

On Dec 7, 5:41 pm, Keith <keithdlee2...@gmail.com> wrote:
> All:
>  I just a got great deal on a Samsung 32" HDTV. The only issue is the smoke smell. Is there a way I can
> get it off and out of my new HDTV without ruining the TV? Thank you.

Alkaline cleaning solutions attack smoke residue. I've had good
result
(on plastic, NEVER ALUMINUM) with a teaspoon of lye in a
quart of soapy water. Dishwasher detergent (contains sodium
carbonate) is also a good bet. Rinse with (deioinized or
distilled preferably) water.

The only safe solvent for most of the electronics, though, will be
alcohol (denatured alcohol is best, isopropyl also good) but watch
out for plastics other than epoxy and mylar and vinyl. The boards
that take soldering temperature all will tolerate alcohol cleaning.

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 5:39 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 08 Dec 2010 11:08:02 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:

>>> I just a got great deal on a Samsung 32" HDTV. The only issue is the
>>> smoke smell. Is there a way I can
>>> get it off and out of my new HDTV without ruining the TV? Thank you.
>>>Keith Lee

Note that the original question sorta hinted that this is a NEW
Samsung TV. "Great Deal" around Christmas time usually means he
bought it on sale somewhere. Unless someone at the factory smokes, I
doubt if the TV had time to accumulate enough tar and crud to stink.

>electronics used around smokers develop a smelly grunge film that needs to
>be WASHED OFF,and then dried for several days,preferably in a drying oven.

Yep. My method is to use common 90% alcohol and give it a bath. If
immersion is possible, I do it. Hitting it with a hot water spray, to
wash off the ionic contaminants, water soluble flux residue, and
general accumulate crud, is not beneath my dignity. The trick is to
immediately blow dry the boards with an air compressor (with a dryer
filter attached). If there's something involved that's porous (wood
or press board cabinetry) or can't be washed (paper speaker cones),
then I have to let it air dry for a few days. Otherwise, the smell is
usually gone with the blow dry.

>I did a lot of that while I was at Tektronix.
>It sometimes was so thick that you could see the brownish yellow gunk
>running off as you rinsed the unit.

Yep. To keep my office/shop clean, I won't let anything inside until
the dust has been blown out and all the crud removed. I clean
everything, even if I later decide that it's not worth repairing.

>that gunk also attracts and hold other dirt and grime.it's NASTY.

Yep. For the ultimate mess, I have to deal with a machine shop that
uses various plastic case laptops and PC's near the machines. Hot
chips melt and imbed themselves in the plastic parts. Oil, dust, and
dirt adds to the mess. I usually have to scrape the case for chips
with a putty knife before I can safely move it. I wanted to baptize
the PC in the vapor degreaser, but the owner wouldn't let me.

Another fun mess are kids laptops that are literally wallpapered with
stickers, pogs, and stick-on skins. All the sticky back stuff can be
removed with some solvent or other, but there's no solvent that will
reliably remove all the different types of sticky glue.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 6:04 pm
From: Les Cargill

Keith wrote:
> All:
> Luckily for me, the smoke smell seems to be disappearing. I hope it will be gone within a few days.
> BTW, what do any of you think of using vinegar on a tobacco smoke smelling object?
> Thank you.
>
> Keith

Windex (or generic equivalent) works better.

--
Les Cargill

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 6:16 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Keith" <keithdlee2000@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ido2i4$hcf$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> All:
> Luckily for me, the smoke smell seems to be disappearing. I hope it will
> be gone within a few days.
> BTW, what do any of you think of using vinegar on a tobacco smoke smelling
> object?
> Thank you.
>
> Keith

Best place for the vinegar, is on the chips ...

That's a joke for the Eastpondians :-)

Arfa

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 8:27 pm
From: "Brenda Ann"

"Keith" wrote in message news:ido2i4$hcf$1@news.eternal-september.org...

All:
Luckily for me, the smoke smell seems to be disappearing.
Keith

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Maybe, maybe not. After a relatively short while, even the most obnoxious
odors become tolerable to the point of being unnoticable. It's an adaptive
response to your environment.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 12:34 am
From: Lyrik

On Dec 8, 2:41 am, Keith <keithdlee2...@gmail.com> wrote:
> All:
>  I just a got great deal on a Samsung 32" HDTV. The only issue is the smoke smell. Is there a way I can
> get it off and out of my new HDTV without ruining the TV? Thank you.
>
> Keith Lee

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
When we fetched our car from the mechanic, we could smell his pipe-
smoke several days inside the "non-smoker-car." He has lost 1200
customers on that account. He is inseperable from his trusted pipe. We
on our part enjoyed the reminicense of our trusted mechanic which we
had returned to after some years with "factory service."
After 3 days the smell disapeared. No harme done.

Which detergent removed tolerance and flexibility?

Jens

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Thurs, Dec 9 2010 12:42 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:ssb0g69n3fj6o28althuti23d3si6cfleu@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 08 Dec 2010 11:08:02 -0600, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
> wrote:
>
> >>> I just a got great deal on a Samsung 32" HDTV. The only issue is the
> >>> smoke smell. Is there a way I can
> >>> get it off and out of my new HDTV without ruining the TV? Thank you.
> >>>Keith Lee
>
> Note that the original question sorta hinted that this is a NEW
> Samsung TV. "Great Deal" around Christmas time usually means he
> bought it on sale somewhere. Unless someone at the factory smokes, I
> doubt if the TV had time to accumulate enough tar and crud to stink.
>
> >electronics used around smokers develop a smelly grunge film that needs
to
> >be WASHED OFF,and then dried for several days,preferably in a drying
oven.
>
> Yep. My method is to use common 90% alcohol and give it a bath. If
> immersion is possible, I do it. Hitting it with a hot water spray, to
> wash off the ionic contaminants, water soluble flux residue, and
> general accumulate crud, is not beneath my dignity. The trick is to
> immediately blow dry the boards with an air compressor (with a dryer
> filter attached). If there's something involved that's porous (wood
> or press board cabinetry) or can't be washed (paper speaker cones),
> then I have to let it air dry for a few days. Otherwise, the smell is
> usually gone with the blow dry.
>
> >I did a lot of that while I was at Tektronix.
> >It sometimes was so thick that you could see the brownish yellow gunk
> >running off as you rinsed the unit.
>
> Yep. To keep my office/shop clean, I won't let anything inside until
> the dust has been blown out and all the crud removed. I clean
> everything, even if I later decide that it's not worth repairing.
>
> >that gunk also attracts and hold other dirt and grime.it's NASTY.
>
> Yep. For the ultimate mess, I have to deal with a machine shop that
> uses various plastic case laptops and PC's near the machines. Hot
> chips melt and imbed themselves in the plastic parts. Oil, dust, and
> dirt adds to the mess. I usually have to scrape the case for chips
> with a putty knife before I can safely move it. I wanted to baptize
> the PC in the vapor degreaser, but the owner wouldn't let me.
>
> Another fun mess are kids laptops that are literally wallpapered with
> stickers, pogs, and stick-on skins. All the sticky back stuff can be
> removed with some solvent or other, but there's no solvent that will
> reliably remove all the different types of sticky glue.
>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
> # 831-336-2558
> # http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
> # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Hot air gun ,low heat setting, has removed all gum based stickers that I've
come across except some 10 year or older that must have some sort of
chemical welding process into the underlying plastic over time

==============================================================================
TOPIC: *OT* Dragnet Episode
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7d2b25421f3aeaa0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 9:28 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Wed, 8 Dec 2010 06:00:45 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> And a video from someone that owns one.
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfkrkSgtOvw
>
>What other obscure brands of television am I ignorant of (he asked, with
>more than a touch of sarcasm)?
>
I don't know. Why don't you list the ones you DO remember, then go
here http://www.tvhistory.tv/1950-59-ALL-USA.htm to fill in the
blanks? FYI: They list 104 TV manufacturers for the years 1950-1959,
running from A (Admiral) to Z (Zenith).

>I should have realized the name was legit, when one of the characters
>started bragging about his Leica IIIf, the penultimate of the Leica
>screw-thread cameras.
>

PlainBill

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 9:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I don't know. Why don't you list the ones you DO remember, then go
> here http://www.tvhistory.tv/1950-59-ALL-USA.htm to fill in the
> blanks? FYI: They list 104 TV manufacturers for the years 1950-1959,
> running from A (Admiral) to Z (Zenith).

Thanks for the ref. At least 20% of the names were unfamiliar.

The most-interesting was "Natalie Kalmus", the woman whose name appears as
"Technicolor consultant" on pre-1950 films. She was the once-wife of Herbert
Kalmus, the principal developer of Technicolor.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 3:06 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 12/8/2010 6:51 AM William Sommerwerck spake thus:

>>> I should have realized the name was legit, when one
>>> of the characters started bragging about his Leica IIIf,
>>> the penultimate of the Leica screw-thread cameras.
>
>> The ultimate being a Canon 7S with f0.95 lens?
>
> No, the Leica IIIg. Not that I wouldn't mind having one.

Since we've drifted off-topic anyhow, I'd certainly settle for a Leotax
(Showa Opt. Co.), or a Nicca, or a Robot Royal: now *there's* a camera.
Or a Canon, for that matter ...

What is that f/0.95; a Nocton?

D "settles for a Zorki-1" N

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 3:57 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> What is that f/0.95; a Nocton?

The 0.95 was a Canon lens. The Nocton/Nokton was a Voigtlander lens. It
appears a 25mm version has been developed for the Four-Thirds System:

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/137627-voigtlander-nocton-25-f-0-95-a.html

I'll tell you what I'd like to see... A full-frame OM DSLR, the same size as
an OM-4, that takes all the Zuiko OM lenses. Now, that would be something
very, very special.

I had a beautiful OM system that, unfortunately, had to be sold because I
would otherwise have lost my home. But the OM camera was truly what it was
designed to be -- an "SLR Leica" -- if only in size and elegance. Olympus's
Four-Thirds SLRs, even the smallest, are pathetically clunky next to an OM.
As are the lenses. Even the "fast" OM lenses are unbelievably tiny.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: South Western Federal Taxation 2011 34th Ed Comprehensive Solutions
manual and Test bank is available for purchase at affordable prices. Contact
me at estudyguides[at]gmail.com to buy it today.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/350abae86853818e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 9:38 am
From: SolutionPerson

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: 2011 Individual taxation Pratt 5th Ed Solution manual and test bank is
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== 1 of 1 ==
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 9:45 am
From: hollywood

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: notebook ac adapter pulsing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ecf886c806181712?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 10:06 am
From: mynick

The notebook probably will not boot because the adapter output is
oscilating approx +/-0.5v
the output pi filter capacitors and inductor seem ok and there is same
pulsing in front of it -any ideas what may be the cause?There
are:nec2501 LK837-?,TL431c-regulator, fch200.. double diode,10n60
power mos
thanks

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Dec 8 2010 12:56 pm
From: Ken

mynick wrote:
> The notebook probably will not boot because the adapter output is
> oscilating approx +/-0.5v
> the output pi filter capacitors and inductor seem ok and there is same
> pulsing in front of it -any ideas what may be the cause?There
> are:nec2501 LK837-?,TL431c-regulator, fch200.. double diode,10n60
> power mos
> thanks

Look at the feedback loop on the adapter.

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