sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 12 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Sexy Indian Babes
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 11 2010 10:53 pm
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TOPIC: tv receivers have puny sound
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5d73f7ad8fcea692?hl=en
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== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Dec 11 2010 4:42 pm
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <ie1362$i5q$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> Don't take this personally, but I really don't care. I have a decent
> pair of inexpensive speakers connected to the set, which provide much
> better sound than they have any right to. (I'm sometimes surprised at
> just how good it is.) And when I want to listen seriously, I have a
> sophisticated six-channel (plus cheap subwoofer) audiophile system.
> Really good sound /from the TV itself/, out of the box, is exactly what
> I /don't/ want, and don't want to pay for.

Indeed. Also set mounted speakers are too close together for a decent
sound stage. They are also one of these things developments in electronics
haven't made cheaper. Unlike TV sets in general.

--
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 1:16 am
From: "N_Cook"

Charles <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ie0tn5$9sp$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> This is not a repair question, but I got flamed on the design forum and
> thought that I'd try here. I was labeled a kook and a troll and ... Boy,
> does that group have bunched up underwear!
>
> I have three LCD tvs that work well, but the audio is thin. I know about
> amps and external speakers and surround sound and all of that. Please
don't
> recommend external devices, as that is NOT what this post is about.
>
> Is there a technology to build decent speakers into these skinny tv
> receivers? The industry has come up with 3-D, dynamic LED backlighting,
and
> other nice features ... but no decent STAND ALONE SOUND.
>
> There is a significant market for flat-panel tvs with decent stand-alone
> sound. Any ideas?
>

Anything to do with not using excessively elliptical speakers these days. ?
Used to be something like 10 or 12 inches major axis and 1.5 inches or so
minor axis

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 1:41 am
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Dec 11, 2:24 pm, "Charles" <charlesschu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> This is not a repair question, but I got flamed on the design forum and
> thought that I'd try here. I was labeled a kook and a troll and ... Boy,
> does that group have bunched up underwear!
>
> I have three LCD tvs that work well, but the audio is thin. I know about
> amps and external speakers and surround sound and all of that. Please don't
> recommend external devices, as that is NOT what this post is about.
>
> Is there a technology to build decent speakers into these skinny tv
> receivers? The industry has come up with 3-D, dynamic LED backlighting, and
> other nice features ... but no decent STAND ALONE SOUND.
>
> There is a significant market for flat-panel tvs with decent stand-alone
> sound. Any ideas?

I read your other thread. Apparently you just want to whine about it.
I agree the sound on most TVs sucks though what comes into them can be
very good. I told you how I added a very simple stereo system onto the
TV to make it decent and totally transparent to operate. That's the
best I can do as I don't design TV sets.

Happy Holidays
G²

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 3:30 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> Don't take this personally, but I really don't care. I have a decent
>> pair of inexpensive speakers connected to the set, which provide
>> much better sound than they have any right to. (I'm sometimes
>> surprised at just how good it is.) And when I want to listen seriously,
>> I have a sophisticated six-channel (plus cheap subwoofer) audiophile
>> system. Really good sound /from the TV itself/, out of the box, is
>> exactly what I /don't/ want, and don't want to pay for.

> Indeed. Also set mounted speakers are too close together for a
> decent sound stage. They are also one of these things developments
> in electronics haven't made cheaper. Unlike TV sets in general.

There are laws of physics any speaker designer has to confront. The
relationship among sensitivity, maximum output, and bass extension seems
essentially unbreakable. * The smaller the cabinet, the greater the
compromise required in any one of these to improve the other two. **

It is true that /drivers/ have drastically improved over the last 20 years.
The muffled, boxy sound that used to come out of TVs is gone.

* There's a recent design that claims to have fudged these factors, but
based on what's been published, it seems to be unduly complex for the
limited improvement it provides.

** One way to get around the cabinet-size problem is to stuff bags of sulfur
hexafluoride in the cabinet. Only Dayton-Wright ever did this, but it really
worked.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 5:47 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

You could have just done a Goog search, but apparently you wouldn't, so many
folks would generally assume that it's a troll post.

No high quality sound will be coming from cheap, tiny "speakers" in a
flimsy, light weight, vented plastic enclosure. Silicon doesn't make quality
sound, so magic ICs (technology) won't do it.

Headphones.

Bose TV.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/206518/a_bose_tv_sounds_good_literally.html

http://blogs.wsj.com/digits/2010/09/28/pricey-bose-tv-promises-theater-sound-no-external-speakers/

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ie0tn5$9sp$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> This is not a repair question, but I got flamed on the design forum and
> thought that I'd try here. I was labeled a kook and a troll and ... Boy,
> does that group have bunched up underwear!
>
> I have three LCD tvs that work well, but the audio is thin. I know about
> amps and external speakers and surround sound and all of that. Please
> don't recommend external devices, as that is NOT what this post is about.
>
> Is there a technology to build decent speakers into these skinny tv
> receivers? The industry has come up with 3-D, dynamic LED backlighting,
> and other nice features ... but no decent STAND ALONE SOUND.
>
> There is a significant market for flat-panel tvs with decent stand-alone
> sound. Any ideas?

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 7:04 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Charles wrote:
>
> This is not a repair question, but I got flamed on the design forum and
> thought that I'd try here. I was labeled a kook and a troll and ... Boy,
> does that group have bunched up underwear!
>
> I have three LCD tvs that work well, but the audio is thin. I know about
> amps and external speakers and surround sound and all of that. Please don't
> recommend external devices, as that is NOT what this post is about.
>
> Is there a technology to build decent speakers into these skinny tv
> receivers? The industry has come up with 3-D, dynamic LED backlighting, and
> other nice features ... but no decent STAND ALONE SOUND.
>
> There is a significant market for flat-panel tvs with decent stand-alone
> sound. Any ideas?

Yes. You don't have a clue about designing electronics. The last
thing you want in a TV is a lot of bass to vibrate the electronics.
There are already enough problems with cracked solder joints, and the
sound you want would make things worse. The cases would vibrate and
rattle at high volume, as well since the cases are large and thin. From
an engineering standpoint it is a good way to put yourself out of
business. You would need a very thick and heavy case design with
damping to prevent problems. the case would be a lot larger and
heavier, and could add several hundred dollars to the retail price just
to please a very small percentage of customers. Go find a working '70s
color console made when the cabinets were measured in cubic feet instead
of today's that are measured in cubic inches. One of those eight foot
wide Zenith monsters with a one inch thick slate top would do. Of
course, Zenith warned you that you needed six people to move one of
them.

--
For the last time: I am not a mad scientist, I'm just a very ticked off
scientist!!!

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 10:03 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 17:24:38 -0500, "Charles"
<charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote:

>This is not a repair question, but I got flamed on the design forum and
>thought that I'd try here. I was labeled a kook and a troll and ... Boy,
>does that group have bunched up underwear!
>
>I have three LCD tvs that work well, but the audio is thin. I know about
>amps and external speakers and surround sound and all of that. Please don't
>recommend external devices, as that is NOT what this post is about.
>
>Is there a technology to build decent speakers into these skinny tv
>receivers? The industry has come up with 3-D, dynamic LED backlighting, and
>other nice features ... but no decent STAND ALONE SOUND.
>
>There is a significant market for flat-panel tvs with decent stand-alone
>sound. Any ideas?
This is true of the cheap LCD TVs you buy, but it doesn't have to be
the case. There is no way to get good sound at appreciable volume out
of an ultra-thin set. The solution is simple - larger speakers.
Several Philips plasma sets took advantage of the relatively deeper
chassis to incorporate sizeable speakers appropriately space to give
decent sound. Sharp and other manufacturers incorporated a sound bar
under the set. Obviously this adds to the cost, so it's not a
solution found in the bottom of the line sets favored by some.

PlainBill

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 10:10 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 15:03:02 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>Unfortunately, KLH Audio is
>out of business.

The original KLH was sold to Kyocera, which bailed out of the audio
biz about 10 years ago. What's left was sold several times and is now
in California at:
<http://www.klhaudio.com>
Doesn't look like any of the simple Henry Kloss designs, which have
been cloned by others:
<http://www.tivoliaudio.com>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Bank winding of HV SMPS transformer?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c0a5f6bb86e25bb5?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 1:13 am
From: "N_Cook"

nesesu <neil_sutcliffe@telus.net> wrote in message
news:1220b16b-7a98-448c-81a3-48ab260b9f47@p7g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 11, 7:06 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> 610 turns of 40AWG / 45 SWG wiring in 4 "layers" anyone experience of such
> winding and thoughts on resulatant (lack of) structural integrity,
> slip/sliding turns with temp cycling/magnostriction etc leading to
failure.
> I've never seen a transformer design brief, so perhaps interesting to
others
> on that aspect alone
> Tektronix 7834 scop HV transformer,(flyback
misnomer)http://www.ko4bb.com/Manuals/Tektronix/Tektronix_-_7834/Tek7834_Fly
ba...
> sformer_Winding%20_Spec.pdf
>
> some general info including bank winding, I've only ever seen on high DC
> chokes so structurally soundhttp://focus.ti.com/lit/ml/slup125/slup125.pdf

Not sure what you are getting at. According to the winding winding
diagram and notes, the 610 turn winding is machine wound in a 'bank'
winder so it should be tight and even. I would expect that the #40AWG
wire is 'served' with polyester yarn which gives it a high surface
friction so the turns tend to lock together. Finially, I imagine the
finished coil assembly is vacuum 'varnished' to seal out moisture and
fill all air gaps as well as lock the whole assembly into a solid
mass.
I am surprised to see bank winding is back in fashion; we used to bank
wind torroids 50 years ago to give minimal parallel capacitance to the
inductance, but that seemed to fade out when ferrite pot cores
replaced powdered iron torroid cores through the '60s. For very low
capacitance coils we would then use 'Pi' or 'universal' wound coils,
but they too must be flooded with a sealing compound to lock their
rather frail structure that relies wholly on wire tension for
stability in the 'as wound' state.

Neil S.

&&&&&&

I was trying to visualise the mechanics of the winding machine, backlash
error for the reversing cam , once per bank,150 times for this coil. Runout
error trying to keep the overall traverse in step with the banking over the
width of run. And all the time just surface tension , assumed wound wet, to
stop the turns avalanching down the bank slopes.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: leaving conductors exposed
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/424fa524bd8577b8?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 1:34 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <lsudnfyFHa-p35nQnZ2dnUVZ_ridnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

> There are high isolation transformers with the windings on separate
> bobbins. The efficiency is lower than traditional overlaid winding, but
> the two windings aren't close enough for anything less than a lightning
> strike from reaching the secondary and there isn't any design that is
> safe from a direct strike.

Indeed. Often called 'medical quality'.

--
*I don't work here. I'm a consultant

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Lithium Cells Exploding
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/181af8dd8c2e6fde?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 3:36 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> NASA won't allow any litium cells in space. We had to use 'Capstore'
>> NVRAM in our products for space applications. Since the cost difference
>> was small, we dropped the battery backed NVRAM from our products.

> since when does nasa care about stuff catching on fire or exploding, or
> is there some sort of higher energy battery failure mode they prefer?

NASA has other considerations. For example, when astronauts used HP
calculators, NASA required that the feet on the bottom be removed, to avoid
possible outgassing from the rubber.

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Power for US hub?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ea97df224394d067?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 7:33 am
From: Terry Pinnell

I've dusted off a 4-port USB hub I had lying but can't find whatever
adapter it came with. What are the standard specs for USB 2.0 please? I
want to replace a PC-powered hub with it.

I have several old adapters at hand. One (which happily has the correct
plug) has switchable outputs of 3V, 4.5V and 6V, with current capacity of
300 mA at 6V. options. Would the 4.5V be OK?

--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 8:12 am
From: J. Todd

In article <tmq9g65an1or35t1o99vtfg2ljik065huh@4ax.com>,
terrypingm@DELETEgmail.com says...
> I've dusted off a 4-port USB hub I had lying but can't find whatever
> adapter it came with. What are the standard specs for USB 2.0 please? I
> want to replace a PC-powered hub with it.
>
> I have several old adapters at hand. One (which happily has the correct
> plug) has switchable outputs of 3V, 4.5V and 6V, with current capacity of
> 300 mA at 6V. options. Would the 4.5V be OK?
>
>
No. The voltage spec is tight. Try to find a unit 5.0V, 2.1A,switching
type. Linksys routers use them, for one.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 9:46 am
From: D Yuniskis

Hi Terry,

Terry Pinnell wrote:
> I've dusted off a 4-port USB hub I had lying but can't find whatever
> adapter it came with. What are the standard specs for USB 2.0 please? I
> want to replace a PC-powered hub with it.
>
> I have several old adapters at hand. One (which happily has the correct
> plug) has switchable outputs of 3V, 4.5V and 6V, with current capacity of
> 300 mA at 6V. options. Would the 4.5V be OK?

5V at about 2+A -- for four *powered* ports; less if you
can guarantee the devices plugged into the hub have their
own power source(s). You won't be finding this in an
old-fashioned "transformer" wall wart (you'll need a small
switcher wall-wart)

Most hubs that I have seen, lately, use a ~0.100 dia barrel
connector (center positive) -- though I have seen others.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 9:45 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

No. You really need 5 volts at 500ma for each port. Most things don't use
5 volts anymore, they use regulators for lower voltages and 4.5 is just at
the border of 3.3 volt regulators working or not.

Besides a 4.5 volt unregulated supply could provide almost anything at no
load (like 8 or 9 volts if it is really bad) which would be a problem.

Lucklily 5 volt supplies are easy to get and cheap. You can get a 5v 1amp
switching supply as a charger for a music player/cell phone. That will do for
2-3 bus powered devices, or all 4 if they are self powered.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 9:55 am
From: Terry Pinnell

D Yuniskis <not.going.to.be@seen.com> wrote:

>Hi Terry,
>
>Terry Pinnell wrote:
>> I've dusted off a 4-port USB hub I had lying but can't find whatever
>> adapter it came with. What are the standard specs for USB 2.0 please? I
>> want to replace a PC-powered hub with it.
>>
>> I have several old adapters at hand. One (which happily has the correct
>> plug) has switchable outputs of 3V, 4.5V and 6V, with current capacity of
>> 300 mA at 6V. options. Would the 4.5V be OK?
>
>5V at about 2+A -- for four *powered* ports; less if you
>can guarantee the devices plugged into the hub have their
>own power source(s). You won't be finding this in an
>old-fashioned "transformer" wall wart (you'll need a small
>switcher wall-wart)
>
>Most hubs that I have seen, lately, use a ~0.100 dia barrel
>connector (center positive) -- though I have seen others.

Thanks all, glad I asked, as I hadn't realised it needed such a heavy duty
supply. At worse, I'll get out to the shed and make one.

BTW, if you'll excuse a related question, is it usual for USB ports on the
front of a PC case to be less reliable than ports on the back? Perhaps
with lower current delivery? That's my motive for deploying this powered
hub. An operation that failed from the front worked OK from the back
(connecting an iPad to run an iTunes sync). That wasn't the only thing I
changed, so it's not conclusive. But from subsequent googling I've seen
several suggestions that this difference is a real one.

--
Terry, East Grinstead, UK

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung and AT&T U-Verse HDMI error?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2a432127faab53e5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 8:04 am
From: "www.locoworks.com"

On Dec 11, 10:30 pm, John McWilliams <jp...@comcast.net> wrote:
> On 12/11/10 PDT 9:55 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 17:11:27 -0800 (PST), Ron<BigELil...@msn.com>
> > wrote:
>
> >> On Dec 11, 12:45 pm, John McWilliams<jp...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >>> On 12/11/10 PDT 6:34 AM, Keith wrote:
>
> >>>> Rick:
> >>>> I usually get both but sometimes I also get the error message as well. I guess I will have to try different
> >>>> HDMI cables to see it that is it. Any HDMI cables you would recommend? Thank you.
>
> >>> The ones that cost $110! :-)
>
> >> Pfft
> >>http://www.crutchfield.com/p_703CARB2M/AudioQuest-Carbon-2-meter.html...
>
> > Bah Humbug. Only $229 for a 2 meter HDMI cable? That's for
> > cheapskates. Real audiophiles buy nothing but the best and most
> > expensive.
> > <http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQHDMIDIA&variation=2>
> > $1,394.75 for a 2 meter cable is more like it. It comes with a 72VDC
> > bias to do something to prevent dielectric absorption which allegedly
> > causes distortion. I like the "long-grain copper". I didn't know
> > copper has grain.
>
> Copper?? Copper! Hah. It's gotta be long-grained silver or nothing.....
> But I do like the price they're getting for mere copper.... must be over
> $10,000 a pound...
>
> --
> John McWilliams- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Long-Grained Silver. Wasn't he Long John's brother? Arrr.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 8:21 am
From: Ron

On Dec 11, 11:59 pm, UCLAN <inva...@invalid.com> wrote:
> Ron wrote:
> >>> Rick: I usually get both but sometimes I also get the error message as
> >>> well. I guess I will have to try different HDMI cables to see it that
> >>> is it. Any HDMI cables you would recommend? Thank you.
>
> >> The ones that cost $110! :-)
>
> > Pfft
> >http://www.crutchfield.com/p_703CARB2M/AudioQuest-Carbon-2-meter.html...
>
> Pffft:
>
> http://www.musicdirect.com/product/87492

That's the one I was looking for but couldn't find it. Unbelievable!

How in the hell does Audioquest stay in business. Guess there are a
lot of people out there with more money than common sense.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 8:25 am
From: Ron

On Dec 12, 12:55 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 17:11:27 -0800 (PST), Ron <BigELil...@msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> >On Dec 11, 12:45 pm, John McWilliams <jp...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >> On 12/11/10 PDT 6:34 AM, Keith wrote:
>
> >> > Rick:
> >> > I usually get both but sometimes I also get the error message as well. I guess I will have to try different
> >> > HDMI cables to see it that is it. Any HDMI cables you would recommend? Thank you.
>
> >> The ones that cost $110! :-)
> >Pfft
> >http://www.crutchfield.com/p_703CARB2M/AudioQuest-Carbon-2-meter.html...
>
> Bah Humbug. Only $229 for a 2 meter HDMI cable? That's for
> cheapskates. Real audiophiles buy nothing but the best and most
> expensive.
> <http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQHDMIDIA&variation=2>
> $1,394.75 for a 2 meter cable is more like it. It comes with a 72VDC
> bias to do something to prevent dielectric absorption which allegedly
> causes distortion. I like the "long-grain copper". I didn't know
> copper has grain.

Ah, so that is why I have distortion.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 9:53 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 12 Dec 2010 08:25:29 -0800 (PST), Ron <BigELilE05@msn.com>
wrote:

>On Dec 12, 12:55�am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> Bah Humbug. �Only $229 for a 2 meter HDMI cable? �That's for
>> cheapskates. �Real audiophiles buy nothing but the best and most
>> expensive.
>> <http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQHDMIDIA&variation=2>
>> $1,394.75 for a 2 meter cable is more like it. �It comes with a 72VDC
>> bias to do something to prevent dielectric absorption which allegedly
>> causes distortion. �I like the "long-grain copper". �I didn't know
>> copper has grain.

>Ah, so that is why I have distortion.

The only thing that's distorted is the price markup.
<http://www.audioquest.com>
It's also patented.
<http://www.google.com/patents/about?id=wix7AAAAEBAJ&dq=7,126,055>
The problem is that dielectric adsorption is a real effect:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dielectric_absorption>
but is hardly applicable to PVC dielectric HDMI cables which has low
dielectric soaking effects. Of course, no numbers or test results can
be found anywhere.

Incidentally, note that there are different lengths and speeds for
various classes of HDMI cables:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hdmi#Cables>
I unsuccessfully tried to make a 100ft HDMI cable work for a customer.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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TOPIC: HP Pavillion disk read failure
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/69cf1664455bf171?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Dec 12 2010 10:11 am
From: root

I picked up and HP Pavillion which is just over
one year old. The guy who sold it said it just
needed an new hard disk. Not true. I put a
new drive in it and installed my OS. After an
hour or so the system couldn't read the disk.
I shut it down and what I think is the Southbridge
chip was very hot. It had a small passive heat
sink which I removed, cleaned the surfaces, and
put on fresh conductive paste. I also affixed
a small fan to the heat sink. After this I was
able to run the machine for three or four hours
before the same disk read failures started.

I replaced the power supply with one known
to be good and the problems came back after
three hours or so of operation.

Just now I removed the CPU heat sink/fan and
renewed the heat sink compound. The CPU was
at room temperature, so I don't think this
is the problem.

None of the other components on the motherboard
is even warm to the touch. Even the disk drive
was at room temperature.

I can't think of anything other than heat that
would explain the problem, but then I don't
see how the machine could run for several hours
and without overheating.

Any ideas?

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