sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Repairing flexible pcb connector track? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en
* Glass fibre basket retainer for 5881/6L6 - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/16c10415e29b4168?hl=en
* hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11 - 6 messages, 6
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
* Comprehensive Test Banks and solution manuals - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/759adba353014be1?hl=en
* Mits model CS 35707 - IC 6F01 still available? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8859cb72c9275d32?hl=en
* 125 VAC motor won't start - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1adec446eb7f728?hl=en
* SMT rework - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cab4440230d769af?hl=en
* Isopropyl Alcohol for Cleaning Flux - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a7a3663fd81cf5bd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repairing flexible pcb connector track?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 7:10 pm
From: whit3rd


On Jul 29, 7:17 am, "Ian P" <elanma...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3 chip HD
> camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a mylar?
> flexible cable.

If you're very lucky, there are redundant traces and you
can jumper to them from the nonworking conductors at the
connectors (on the non-flexing boards). Otherwise, contact
Sony for a new part (or subassembly).


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 3:55 pm
From: "Ian P"


After mulling over all the good guidance and advice I recieved in response
to my original posting I decided which method to use and this evening have
successfully repaired the cut tracks.

I went for the soldered wire jumpers over the breaks, straightforward under
normal circumstances but in this case on a small scale. I bridged four
adjacent tracks using wire 0,05mm (2 thou) diameter taken from super
flexible test lead wire. The tracks were were between 0.1 and 0.15mm wide
and the whole repaired area ended up 0.9mm wide and 4mm long.

With the right equipment, microscope etc I can now see that a repair of this
sort could be done fairly easily, I managed with a strong magnifyng glass
that I fixed in place so I had both hands free. After I fixed the first
jumper I improved my technique and was able to work one handed by using a
longer length of jumper held taught exactly in line with the track by bits
of masking tape at either end. Because of its length its really easy to
position the jumper, I also put a little bit of packing under the ribbon so
that it formed a raised surface to keep the wire in contact with the
previously tinned tracks.

I still have to test the repair but mechanically all the joints are sound
and separated from each other so I'm happy.

Many thanks to all that responded.

Ian


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 6:37 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bjnv3Frf3U1@mid.individual.net...
> After mulling over all the good guidance and advice I recieved in response
> to my original posting I decided which method to use and this evening have
> successfully repaired the cut tracks.
>
> I went for the soldered wire jumpers over the breaks, straightforward
> under normal circumstances but in this case on a small scale. I bridged
> four adjacent tracks using wire 0,05mm (2 thou) diameter taken from super
> flexible test lead wire. The tracks were were between 0.1 and 0.15mm wide
> and the whole repaired area ended up 0.9mm wide and 4mm long.
>
> With the right equipment, microscope etc I can now see that a repair of
> this sort could be done fairly easily, I managed with a strong magnifyng
> glass that I fixed in place so I had both hands free. After I fixed the
> first jumper I improved my technique and was able to work one handed by
> using a longer length of jumper held taught exactly in line with the track
> by bits of masking tape at either end. Because of its length its really
> easy to position the jumper, I also put a little bit of packing under the
> ribbon so that it formed a raised surface to keep the wire in contact with
> the previously tinned tracks.
>
> I still have to test the repair but mechanically all the joints are sound
> and separated from each other so I'm happy.
>
> Many thanks to all that responded.
>
> Ian
>

Glad you got a fix ! If the flexiprint doesn't have to bend at the point
where you've repaired it - and I assume that it doesn't as you say that you
have put some strengthening behind it - you might want to coat over the
repair with some clear nail laquer, just to add a bit of 'stay still' to the
wires, and offer a bit of physical protection.

Don't know if you might have a need in the future to do any very fine work
like this again, but if you do, a stereo microscope with built in work lamp
is indispensible. You can pick them up quite cheaply on eBay. Mine came from
Farnell when they had them on offer a few years back. It takes a bit of
getting used to soldering under one, as even the finest tipped iron looks
like a wrought iron poker that the local smithy has just turned out, and the
solder looks like a steel ship hawser, but then even very fine tracks look
like roads, so it's all relative ...

Arfa


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Glass fibre basket retainer for 5881/6L6
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/16c10415e29b4168?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 3:07 am
From: "N_Cook"


Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips digging
into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no bakelite base . How
to fabricate something approximating those woven glass mesh baskets that go
over the envelope and then a pair of springs down to the chassis or any
other ideas other than replacing with based envelope types ?

Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons teeth in
hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing the valves , but
was that the correct approach?


== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 6:02 am
From: Meat Plow


On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips digging
> into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no bakelite base .
> How to fabricate something approximating those woven glass mesh baskets
> that go over the envelope and then a pair of springs down to the chassis
> or any other ideas other than replacing with based envelope types ?
>
> Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
> teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing the
> valves , but was that the correct approach?

Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.


== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 6:20 am
From: "N_Cook"


Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips digging
> > into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no bakelite base .
> > How to fabricate something approximating those woven glass mesh baskets
> > that go over the envelope and then a pair of springs down to the chassis
> > or any other ideas other than replacing with based envelope types ?
> >
> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing the
> > valves , but was that the correct approach?
>
> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.


I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a length of
high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than envelope
circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side. Then silicone
sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of solder tags as
anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they survived


== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 8:02 am
From: Meat Plow


On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 14:20:52 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips
>> > digging into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no
>> > bakelite base . How to fabricate something approximating those woven
>> > glass mesh baskets that go over the envelope and then a pair of
>> > springs down to the chassis or any other ideas other than replacing
>> > with based envelope types ?
>> >
>> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
>> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing
>> > the valves , but was that the correct approach?
>>
>> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.
>
>
> I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
> fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a length
> of high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than
> envelope circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side. Then
> silicone sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of solder
> tags as anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they
> survived

I think making an approximation of the Marshall device is your best bet.
They seem to not harm the glass in any I've worked on. And putting those
kind of 5881's in a jaw clamp is just plain idiotic. Especially if the
tubes hang.


== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 9:03 am
From: "N_Cook"


Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.07.31.15.03.11@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 14:20:52 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> >> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
> >>
> >> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips
> >> > digging into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no
> >> > bakelite base . How to fabricate something approximating those woven
> >> > glass mesh baskets that go over the envelope and then a pair of
> >> > springs down to the chassis or any other ideas other than replacing
> >> > with based envelope types ?
> >> >
> >> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
> >> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing
> >> > the valves , but was that the correct approach?
> >>
> >> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.
> >
> >
> > I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
> > fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a length
> > of high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than
> > envelope circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side. Then
> > silicone sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of solder
> > tags as anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they
> > survived
>
> I think making an approximation of the Marshall device is your best bet.
> They seem to not harm the glass in any I've worked on. And putting those
> kind of 5881's in a jaw clamp is just plain idiotic. Especially if the
> tubes hang.


Another awkwardness of the Marshall ones is the tension points must be a
good inch below the bottle tops and part wrap around to avoid sliding off.
Yes underslung 2002 German Engl E320 50W combo.
First time I've come across one of these , to do anything you have to take
the whole amp to bits. Surprisingly 2 plain washers were split, probably
from using a windy-drill to torque up. Even the maker's ECC83 retainers are
an awkward bodge-up, not even fully screening.


== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 2:29 pm
From: Dave M


On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 14:20:52 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips digging
>> > into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no bakelite base .
>> > How to fabricate something approximating those woven glass mesh baskets
>> > that go over the envelope and then a pair of springs down to the chassis
>> > or any other ideas other than replacing with based envelope types ?
>> >
>> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
>> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing the
>> > valves , but was that the correct approach?
>>
>> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.
>
>
>I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
>fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a length of
>high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than envelope
>circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side. Then silicone
>sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of solder tags as
>anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they survived
>

You can buy the spring retainer clamps (similar to the Marshall, et al.
clamps) from Antique Electronic Supply (www.tubesandmore.com) for $1.95
USD each. A pittance compared to the value of the labor needed to
manufacture a kluge in your shop, even with international 1st class
postage.

See them in the Vacuum Tube Accessories area.
http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/catalog@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?PAGE=SUBCAT&SEARCH_TREE01=VTUBEACC&SEARCH_TREE02=04_SHIELDS

Cheers,
Dave M

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 4:43 am
From: Ron


On 31/07/2010 01:35, Arfa Daily wrote:

> Also, the source sounds suspicious, you must admit ? I mean, dmanzaluni
> ? That must be "the man's a loony", mustn't it ? And the nic.
> Ripanykhazov. "Rippin' ya clothes off" maybe ?

Rip her knickers off, Shirley ;)
--
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We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 1609 of my spam emails to date.
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The Professional version does not have this message


== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 8:04 am
From: Amanda Ripanykhazov


On Jul 30, 5:41 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:03:39 -0700, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
> > Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind everyone up,
> > dont you think I would have found a funnier way of doing it than this?
>
> Not if you're just not too funny in the first place.
>
> > If someone can get me a way of posting a wav file to a NG, let me know
> > and I will stick a microphone in front of the speaker and post whatever
> > it records
>
> > Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back if/when I have a
> > result
>
> But you've already subbed the speaker and the hiss went away or so I
> thought I had previously read.

Call me an old cynic and obviously I am not a technical expert but
doesnt simple logic mandate that when you sub a speaker and the sound
goes away, all it means is that (what I thought blindingly obvious
from the symptoms and there being no apparent logical connection
between the source and the hissing, which was why I posted here:
Because "The problem is that you are describing something that doesn't
seem to make any sense, or have any obvious explanation" so I wondered
whether anyone had come across it before) the sound wasnt coming from
the source? Or did I have to add that when i put the speaker back
again, the sound came back?


== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 9:30 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


Call me an old cynic and obviously I am not a technical expert but
doesnt simple logic mandate that when you sub a speaker and the
sound goes away, all it means is that (what I thought blindingly obvious
from the symptoms and there being no apparent logical connection
between the source and the hissing, which was why I posted here:
Because "The problem is that you are describing something that doesn't
seem to make any sense, or have any obvious explanation" so I wondered
whether anyone had come across it before) the sound wasnt coming from
the source? Or did I have to add that when i put the speaker back
again, the sound came back?

Your speakers are passive devices. They cannot make any sort of sound on
their own.

If hissing is coming from one of them (but not the other, when driven from
the same amp), the speaker must be therefore be the source of the hiss. But
as there is nothing in the speaker that could, by itself, create sound, then
the speaker must be altering or distorting its input to produce the hiss.
However, you say that the presence or level of the hiss is not related to
the program material.

This makes no sense. The logical conclusion is that A: you are grossly
mis-describing the symptoms, or B: this is a troll.

I think it's B. I really don't have any more time for this tsuris/tsimmes.
Take your pick.


== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 10:45 am
From: Jamie


Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:

> On Jul 30, 5:41 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:03:39 -0700, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
>>
>>>Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind everyone up,
>>>dont you think I would have found a funnier way of doing it than this?
>>
>>Not if you're just not too funny in the first place.
>>
>>
>>>If someone can get me a way of posting a wav file to a NG, let me know
>>>and I will stick a microphone in front of the speaker and post whatever
>>>it records
>>
>>>Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back if/when I have a
>>>result
>>
>>But you've already subbed the speaker and the hiss went away or so I
>>thought I had previously read.
>
>
> Call me an old cynic and obviously I am not a technical expert but
> doesnt simple logic mandate that when you sub a speaker and the sound
> goes away, all it means is that (what I thought blindingly obvious
> from the symptoms and there being no apparent logical connection
> between the source and the hissing, which was why I posted here:
> Because "The problem is that you are describing something that doesn't
> seem to make any sense, or have any obvious explanation" so I wondered
> whether anyone had come across it before) the sound wasnt coming from
> the source? Or did I have to add that when i put the speaker back
> again, the sound came back?
check for electrical devices adjacent to the speaker, inside and outside
of the wall. Your speaker coil maybe in the path of an induced magnetic
field from a device near by..

etc..


== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 12:25 pm
From: nesesu


On Jul 31, 9:30 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> Call me an old cynic and obviously I am not a technical expert but
> doesnt simple logic mandate that when you sub a speaker and the
> sound goes away, all it means is that (what I thought blindingly obvious
> from the symptoms and there being no apparent logical connection
> between the source and the hissing, which was why I posted here:
> Because "The problem is that you are describing something that doesn't
> seem to make any sense, or have any obvious explanation" so I wondered
> whether anyone had come across it before) the sound wasnt coming from
> the source? Or did I have to add that when i put the speaker back
> again, the sound came back?
>
> Your speakers are passive devices. They cannot make any sort of sound on
> their own.
>
> If hissing is coming from one of them (but not the other, when driven from
> the same amp), the speaker must be therefore be the source of the hiss. But
> as there is nothing in the speaker that could, by itself, create sound, then
> the speaker must be altering or distorting its input to produce the hiss.
> However, you say that the presence or level of the hiss is not related to
> the program material.
>
> This makes no sense. The logical conclusion is that A: you are grossly
> mis-describing the symptoms, or B: this is a troll.
>
> I think it's B. I really don't have any more time for this tsuris/tsimmes.
> Take your pick.

There is a slight possibility that there is an issue with the
crossover in this speaker that de-stabilizes the driving amplifier,
causing an HF oscillation in the amp, yet the amp IS stable with the
other speaker.
I worked on an Pioneer amp that was marginally stable and would
oscillate depending on the load. The clue it was oscillating was a
'sizzle' in the speaker and the overload lamp was always lit. Other
than that it appeared to work fine to the owners old ears, although
there was a slightly perceptable clipping distortion on louder
passages. A slight adjustment of the R-C feedback in the amp returned
the rock solid stability and eliminated the perceived 'hiss'.
That system had been to two 'professional' shops; one said there was
nothing wrong and the other said it could not be repaired.

Neil S.


== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 6:42 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"Ron" <ron@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote in message
news:jKydnVWRZZH1kcnRnZ2dnUVZ7teonZ2d@bt.com...
> On 31/07/2010 01:35, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> Also, the source sounds suspicious, you must admit ? I mean, dmanzaluni
>> ? That must be "the man's a loony", mustn't it ? And the nic.
>> Ripanykhazov. "Rippin' ya clothes off" maybe ?
>
> Rip her knickers off, Shirley ;)
> --


Ah yes, Ron ! Well spotted ... :-)

Arfa


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Comprehensive Test Banks and solution manuals
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/759adba353014be1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 10:59 am
From: We The Instr


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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mits model CS 35707 - IC 6F01 still available?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8859cb72c9275d32?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 2:15 pm
From: stokesbr@cox.net


I haven't even looked at the set, but my coworker says the picture
suddenly lost all red color. A little research and I found this is not
uncommon with this set, including the diode addition fix. I'm not
ready to order parts, but if this is what I need, I can't locate this
part anywhere. Search of web and this group came up empty. Anyone here
know of a cross reference part or where to purchase the original?
Thankyou for your time.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 125 VAC motor won't start
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1adec446eb7f728?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 3:18 pm
From: a453

Hi all I have a pump with a 2HP 125 V AC motor. All of a sudden the
motor wont start anymore. If I switch it on it just does a humming sound
and then thermal protection kicks in.

If I initiate the rotation of the motor by hand when the power is on the
motor does start working. The curious thing is that I can make it run
clockwise or counterclockwise by simply initiating the rotation by hand.

My guess is then that some electronic component that "tells" the motor
the direction in which to rotate is now broken and the motor "does not
know" any more wheter it must rotate clockwise or counterclockwise....


What should look in the electronics to try fix the motor? Condensers?
Diodes?....


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 4:08 pm
From: Archon


On 7/31/2010 6:18 PM, a453 wrote:
>
> Hi all I have a pump with a 2HP 125 V AC motor. All of a sudden the
> motor wont start anymore. If I switch it on it just does a humming sound
> and then thermal protection kicks in.
>
> If I initiate the rotation of the motor by hand when the power is on the
> motor does start working. The curious thing is that I can make it run
> clockwise or counterclockwise by simply initiating the rotation by hand.
>
> My guess is then that some electronic component that "tells" the motor
> the direction in which to rotate is now broken and the motor "does not
> know" any more wheter it must rotate clockwise or counterclockwise....
>
>
> What should look in the electronics to try fix the motor? Condensers?
> Diodes?....
Start capacitor most likely, they fail fairly often, if its a pool pump
a good pool supplies shop may have them.
JC


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 5:30 pm
From: Jamie


a453 wrote:

>
> Hi all I have a pump with a 2HP 125 V AC motor. All of a sudden the
> motor wont start anymore. If I switch it on it just does a humming sound
> and then thermal protection kicks in.
>
> If I initiate the rotation of the motor by hand when the power is on the
> motor does start working. The curious thing is that I can make it run
> clockwise or counterclockwise by simply initiating the rotation by hand.
>
> My guess is then that some electronic component that "tells" the motor
> the direction in which to rotate is now broken and the motor "does not
> know" any more wheter it must rotate clockwise or counterclockwise....
>
>
> What should look in the electronics to try fix the motor? Condensers?
> Diodes?....
if you have a capacitor on the motor or near by in the circuit? try
replacing it.. If you don't have a starting cap, then you may have a
stuck centrifugal switch in side the motor, that is normally located at
the rotor end where the wires go in..

They do make some set ups with external time delay relays that
connects the start winding, this done at times if the motor needs to be
reversed. Most cheaper ones use a bi-metal relay..


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 6:47 pm
From: whit3rd


On Jul 31, 3:18 pm, a453 <a...@a453.nospam.nospam.com> wrote:
> Hi all I have a pump with a 2HP 125 V AC motor. All of a sudden the
> motor wont start anymore. If I switch it on it just does a humming sound
> and then thermal protection kicks in.

Probably this is a motor with a centrifugal start switch; there's an
'extra' winding that only kicks in at slow revs (or on a cold start)
to get it started in the right direction.

If you're comfortable disassembling the motor, look for springloaded
arms on the rotor, and a push-plate that rubs a rod. That rod
is the switch actuator, look for dirt on the contacts.
There's sometimes a start capacitor in series with the switch,
it's the second suspect if cleaning the switch doesn't solve the
problem.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SMT rework
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cab4440230d769af?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 5:38 pm
From: "Herman"


I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for occasional use.
I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot tweezers. What would be
the recommended tips for general use for ICs and resistors etc. I do not
need to do the PLLC size chips. Price $300 max or so.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Isopropyl Alcohol for Cleaning Flux
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a7a3663fd81cf5bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 5:44 pm
From: "Paul E. Schoen"

"GregS" <zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com> wrote in message
news:i2kovd$d95$1@usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu...
>
> I also remember fellow in our section, working on something new, computer
> "terminal monitors". There was some kind of problem, and he was taking
> some
> boards into the mens room to wash them off. i guess they worked after
> that.

Long ago (1980?) I remember having problems with leakage on a board that
stored voltages in polystyrene capacitors using CMOS switches and op-amps,
but the voltage would bleed off too quickly to be useful as a "memory". We
tried all sorts of flux removers and it still didn't work well enough. But I
had an idea that it might be ionic contaminants such as salt, so I took a
board into the mens room and scrubbed it with hand soap and flushed it with
hot water. Then I dried it with a heat gun, and "voila" it worked like a
champ rather than a chump.

I have had good results with isopropyl alcohol as a flux remover, applied
with a stiff "acid" brush with bristles cut short. It does leave a white
residue. But then I follow with a spray of detergent, scrubbing once again,
and the heat gun to dry it thoroughly. You need to be careful about
overheating, so I hold the board by hand on the edges and move the hot air
around. My fingers will hurt before I overheat the board. Seems to work very
well.

Paul

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 5:50 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> I remember having problems with leakage on a board that
> stored voltages in polystyrene capacitors using CMOS
> switches and op-amps, but the voltage would bleed off too
> quickly to be useful as a "memory". We tried all sorts of
> flux removers and it still didn't work well enough. But I had
> had an idea that it might be ionic contaminants such as
> salt, so I took a board into the mens room and scrubbed
> it with hand soap and flushed it with hot water. Then I dried
> it with a heat gun, and "voila" it worked like a champ rather
> than a chump.

Interesting observation.

Question... Wouldn't distilled water alone flush off ionic contaminants?


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 5:58 pm
From: "Paul E. Schoen"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i32gbp$hnm$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> I remember having problems with leakage on a board that
>> stored voltages in polystyrene capacitors using CMOS
>> switches and op-amps, but the voltage would bleed off too
>> quickly to be useful as a "memory". We tried all sorts of
>> flux removers and it still didn't work well enough. But I had
>> had an idea that it might be ionic contaminants such as
>> salt, so I took a board into the mens room and scrubbed
>> it with hand soap and flushed it with hot water. Then I dried
>> it with a heat gun, and "voila" it worked like a champ rather
>> than a chump.
>
> Interesting observation.
>
> Question... Wouldn't distilled water alone flush off ionic contaminants?

Probably. But there may be some sort of oily residue that will be removed by
the detergent. And hot water from the tap is much cheaper. It may be good to
do a final rinse with distilled or deionized water. I have heard that some
people stack their boards in a dishwasher. But my method works for me and is
is very practical for small quantities.

Paul

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Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair - 22 new messages in 6 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Repairing flexible pcb connector track? - 6 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en
* Grain-of-wheat bulbs - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/80801ab1fbd67e8f?hl=en
* I HACK $2000 FROM PAYPAL - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5bd8ce6a3812f67?hl=en
* Need schematic or service manual - Advent - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b7b89d2a59488e9a?hl=en
* hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11 - 10 messages, 4
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
* Cheap White Nike Air Force One Shoes Wholesale(http://www.24hoursneakers.com/
) (PayPal Payment) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0a3bc80564b27e9?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repairing flexible pcb connector track?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 1:07 am
From: "N_Cook"


Ian P <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8bdrgeFvrtU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.07.29.14.56.20@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> > On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 07:47:37 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> >
> >> This is "not unlike" fixing a PCB trace. How would you do that?
> >>
> >> What about globbing some eutectic solder over the traces (even though
it
> >> shorts them), then using "something" to break the solder into
individual
> >> "strands" while it's still liquid?
> >>
> >> I'm wondering whether zebra strip would be conductive enough? It might
> >> not matter over such a short (ar, ar) distance.
> >>
> >> I wish you success. And if this happened this morning, please put it
> >> aside and relax. Work on something else, something easy, and try to
> >> forget about this problem for the time being.
> >
> > Flexible pcb connector as in a ribbon connector? I've had some limited
> > success repairing these with conductive paint designed to repair
> > automotive window heaters.
>
> Its a paper thin flexible pcb, golden brown in colour which I think is
made
> from Mylar. Because of the narrowness of the tracks and their spacing I
> doubt it could be done with paint.
>
> Ian
>
>


If heat resistant then probably kapton tape. If signal levels and you have a
fairy godmother then anisotropic tape is another possibility , if you can
bare back to the underlying condusctors .


== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 3:14 am
From: "Ian P"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:gcp4o.319800$Yb4.133179@hurricane...
>
>
> "Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:8bdsinF6u0U1@mid.individual.net...
>>
>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:bHh4o.61130$0e3.22364@hurricane...
>>>
>>>
>>> "Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> news:8bdgspFuetU1@mid.individual.net...
>>>> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3
>>>> chip HD camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge
>>>> of a mylar? flexible cable. On the good side the damage is very
>>>> accessible but the bad bit is the tracks are only 0.1mm wide on a 0.2mm
>>>> pitch! Ideally one would just replace the flex pcb but in practice that
>>>> would involve dismantling the camera and lens to get to all the places
>>>> the pcb branches out to, and in some places it actually goes into the
>>>> lens mechanism itself.
>>>>
>>>> I am considering abrading off the top mylar coating to expose the
>>>> copper then bridging the breaks with some very narrow pitch zebra
>>>> strip. My other idea is to make my own miniature insulation
>>>> displacement/piercing connector using a stack of razor blade bits
>>>> sandwiched with insulation layers.
>>>>
>>>> The last option would be to use wire links and solder but I think this
>>>> could only be done with some sort of mechanical micropositioning rig in
>>>> view of the small sizes involved.
>>>>
>>>> I would be interested to hear any thoughts or experiences if anyone has
>>>> any.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Ian
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Based on my experience of trying to repair accidental damage to
>>> flexiprints (yes, it happens to us all no matter how long we've been in
>>> the game and how experienced we are !) I think that you are going to
>>> struggle to get a fix on one of that tiny pitch. I have had plenty of
>>> success with abrading and soldering ones of a slightly greater pitch,
>>> doing it with a tiny needle-point soldering tip and under a microscope,
>>> and using a single strand from superflex instrument cable, such as is
>>> used for better quality meter leads, for instance.
>>>
>>> I don't know whether this is a commercial job, or one for a friend, or
>>> maybe even for yourself, but before you commit to any strategy that's
>>> going to waste a lot of time, and end up with no fix at the end of it
>>> anyway, the job would probably stand being left for a day or two, before
>>> revisiting it with a clear head, to look at how hard replacing the
>>> flexiprint would *really* be. I've often found that things that look as
>>> though they are going to be a copper-bottomed-gold-plated bitch to do,
>>> are actually not so bad, when looked at again after you've calmed down,
>>> and forced a degree of 'san fairy ann' into your head over it. If you
>>> have a copy of the service manual or can obtain one, a look at the parts
>>> list will tell you if replacement is even an option (if you're really
>>> unlucky it might be an integral part of the lens assembly) and if it is
>>> available, a look at the exploded view diagram, would be helpful to
>>> determine how many 'hidden' branches the flexiprint has, and where they
>>> go.
>>>
>>> I really feel for you on this one. I've been there many times over the
>>> years ...
>>>
>>> Good luck with it, and please post back, and let us know how you get on
>>> with it :-\
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>> Thanks for your advice. As you postulated this pcb is integral with the
>> lens and although I have the full service manual for the camera it give
>> no information at all on the lens which is a bought in item (not
>> removable though). The job is not really commercial, for a friend or
>> myself but it a sort of combination of all three. I caused the damage
>> though and I need to repair it because there is not really any
>> alternative.
>>
>> I have in the past repaired and modified boards and components and used
>> thin wire just as you described, this cable though has track and spacing
>> widths that are really challenging, and I don't have any microscope.
>>
>> I have lots of old bits of similar flexible boards and cables so I am
>> going to experiment with them.
>>
>> Ian
>>
> Another possibility, if you get to the point of 'kill or cure', and
> depending on how much space you've got to play with. I have had
> considerable success on remaking the ends of flexiprints, that have failed
> from bending at the stiffening film at the connection point. You can
> carefully knife off the last few mm of cable, then re-expose the print
> 'fingers' by abrading the plastic. I actually use a blunt curved scalpel
> blade. Once the fingers have been thus exposed, the cable can be
> reinserted in the connector, and then the original stiffener pushed back
> in behind to give a good tension on the connector again. Suppose now that
> you could cut right across where the damage is, and re-expose connector
> fingers at each cut end. If you could then obtain connectors, and solder
> them back to back, you could then use this as a joint to remake your
> cable. I realise that with such a fine pitch, the soldering would not be
> easy, but at least you would be doing it on the bench, in the open, and
> with good light. A strong magnifier would be enough to be able to see what
> you are doing, and some liquid flux, and desoldering braid, should make
> the job do-able.
>
> Along similar lines, another possibility might be to again cut right
> across the cable, and expose the conductors on the upper surface of one
> end, and the lower of the other. Then treat it as a surface mount
> soldering job. If you use liquid flux, solder paste, and hot air, and do a
> good job of lining up the tracks and preventing movement before you start,
> there's a good chance of success at making a satisfactory join. Capillary
> action will pull the solder onto the tracks, and providing you've been
> sparing with it, there shouldn't be any shorts between tracks.
>
> Arfa


Arfa

You have made some very good suggestions there and I can tell you've had
some experience in repairing things others would not even consider! I can
see no reason why the lapped joint idea wouldn't work, however the backside
of the flex is probably the substrate that the copper was plated onto and
scraping that off might be very tricky.

I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.

Ian

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 8:31 am
From: Smitty Two


In article <8bfn0bF2vrU1@mid.individual.net>,
"Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.

I wouldn't hesitate to do this, but I'd not attempt it whatsoever
without a microscope. Can you borrow one?


== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 1:38 pm
From: "Ian P"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-F9ADB5.08312430072010@mx01.eternal-september.org...
> In article <8bfn0bF2vrU1@mid.individual.net>,
> "Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.
>
> I wouldn't hesitate to do this, but I'd not attempt it whatsoever
> without a microscope. Can you borrow one?

Unfortunately I don't have anything other than strong magnifying glasses and
I cannot think of anyone or anywhere I could borrow one from.

In the past I have tried soldering etc whilst looking through a magnifying
glass but have struggled because of only really looking through one eye so
really stereo magnification is what I need.

Ian


== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 6:03 pm
From: bz


"Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:8bgri8FvlmU1@mid.individual.net:

>
> "Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:prestwhich-F9ADB5.08312430072010@mx01.eternal-september.org...
>> In article <8bfn0bF2vrU1@mid.individual.net>,
>> "Ian P" <elanman99@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm leaning towards fine wire soldered jumpers across the breaks.
>>
>> I wouldn't hesitate to do this, but I'd not attempt it whatsoever
>> without a microscope. Can you borrow one?
>
> Unfortunately I don't have anything other than strong magnifying glasses
> and I cannot think of anyone or anywhere I could borrow one from.
>
> In the past I have tried soldering etc whilst looking through a
> magnifying glass but have struggled because of only really looking
> through one eye so really stereo magnification is what I need.

Do you have a video camera that can do closeups?
Can you work while watching what you are doing via a monitor?

If you have a piece of similar cable that you can glue along side the cut
one, you might be able to use straight pins to pierce both conductors
simultaneously and then turn the pins into 'rivets' permanently connecting
the broken conductors through the 'bridging' conductor.
Stagger the 'rivets' so they don't short to each other.

You may be able to get some very thin diameter straight pins such as used
for mounting butterflies or from a hobby store, used as nails, etc on small
models. Perhaps even with a copper coating, so that you could touch them
with a bit of solder to 'make things permanent'.

Try it first on some pieces of similar flex from the trash/junk box.

Stagger the pins to give more room to work.

Good luck!

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 7:10 pm
From: whit3rd


On Jul 29, 7:17 am, "Ian P" <elanma...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> In the course of doing some modifications to a very expensive Sony 3 chip HD
> camcorder I have accidentally cut through 3 tracks on the edge of a mylar?
> flexible cable.

If you're very lucky, there are redundant traces and you
can jumper to them from the nonworking conductors at the
connectors (on the non-flexing boards). Otherwise, contact
Sony for a new part (or subassembly).

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Grain-of-wheat bulbs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/80801ab1fbd67e8f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 4:26 am
From: Spehro Pefhany


On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 11:07:21 -0700, the renowned "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
<paul@hovnanian.com> wrote:

>I'm looking for a couple of these to repair some (antique) equipment. They
>should be 1.5V, about 30mA and produce a relatively 'white' light at this
>current. Some Radio Shack 6V, 100mA bulbs draw approximately the correct
>current at 1.5V, but they are too reddish and dim to be of any use.
>
>These are used in an old photographic light meter as a null indicator. LEDs
>won't work at this voltage level (too dim and no where near linear
>brightness vs voltage).

Try a hobby shop that caters to model railroaders (lots of other
interesting stuff there too!)

Eg.
http://www.grsmicroliting.com/eshop/index.html?target=dept_5.html&lang=en-us
"1.5V and 3.0V Super GOR Bulbs"


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 7:59 am
From: J. Todd


In article <Noadne83-tm2XszRnZ2dnUVZ_sKdnZ2d@posted.isomediainc>,
paul@hovnanian.com says...
> I'm looking for a couple of these to repair some (antique) equipment. They
> should be 1.5V, about 30mA and produce a relatively 'white' light at this
> current. Some Radio Shack 6V, 100mA bulbs draw approximately the correct
> current at 1.5V, but they are too reddish and dim to be of any use.
>
> These are used in an old photographic light meter as a null indicator. LEDs
> won't work at this voltage level (too dim and no where near linear
> brightness vs voltage).
>
>
www.cir-kitconcepts.com

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 8:03 am
From: Sofa Slug


Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
> I'm looking for a couple of these to repair some (antique) equipment. They
> should be 1.5V, about 30mA and produce a relatively 'white' light at this
> current. Some Radio Shack 6V, 100mA bulbs draw approximately the correct
> current at 1.5V, but they are too reddish and dim to be of any use.
>
> These are used in an old photographic light meter as a null indicator. LEDs
> won't work at this voltage level (too dim and no where near linear
> brightness vs voltage).
>

1.5v @ 40 ma. lamp (All Electronics): http://tinyurl.com/24khy9l
...they also carry a 3v @ 55 ma. version.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: I HACK $2000 FROM PAYPAL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f5bd8ce6a3812f67?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 6:01 am
From: free money


I HACK $2000 FROM PAYPAL AT http://1023setvideos.co.cc

Due to high security risks, i have hidden the PayPal Form link in an
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need schematic or service manual - Advent
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b7b89d2a59488e9a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 6:37 am
From: Chuck


On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 19:55:33 -0500, "Mark Zacharias"
<mark_zacharias@sbclobal.net> wrote:

>Need info on the Advent Powered Louspeaker.
>
>I used to have this stuff somewhere...
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark Z.
Mark,

I just sent you an email with tips and schematic. Chuck

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 7:18 am
From: Meat Plow


On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 09:05:54 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

>> I thought I made this point in the second posting by saying what I did
>> to try to trace it by pushing in the woofer (you cant push in a tweeter
>> that easily), the sound is coming from behind the woofer.
>
> I'm thinking now that this is a windup. Looking at the the account that
> this has come from.
>
> dmanzaluni ?
>
> Yes, I think that's maybe true ...
>
> Arfa

My reply to the original post was something like "check to see if there
is a snake behind the speaker."


== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 7:29 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> My reply to the original post was something like
> "check to see if there is a snake behind the speaker."

I will sometimes reject as a troll a posting that everyone else accepts,
simply because it doesn't "ring true".

Most people do such a bad job of describing what's going on, that a
perfectly legitimate (though odd) situation can come out sounding quite
phony.

I'm starting to think this is a fake.


== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 1:53 pm
From: Meat Plow


On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 07:29:02 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> My reply to the original post was something like "check to see if there
>> is a snake behind the speaker."
>
> I will sometimes reject as a troll a posting that everyone else accepts,
> simply because it doesn't "ring true".
>
> Most people do such a bad job of describing what's going on, that a
> perfectly legitimate (though odd) situation can come out sounding quite
> phony.
>
> I'm starting to think this is a fake.

I knew it from the start. It's in my blood :)


== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 2:03 pm
From: Amanda Ripanykhazov


Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind everyone
up, dont you think I would have found a funnier way of doing it than
this?

If someone can get me a way of posting a wav file to a NG, let me know
and I will stick a microphone in front of the speaker and post
whatever it records

Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back if/when I have a
result


== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 2:41 pm
From: Meat Plow


On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:03:39 -0700, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:

> Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind everyone up,
> dont you think I would have found a funnier way of doing it than this?

Not if you're just not too funny in the first place.

> If someone can get me a way of posting a wav file to a NG, let me know
> and I will stick a microphone in front of the speaker and post whatever
> it records
>
> Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back if/when I have a
> result

But you've already subbed the speaker and the hiss went away or so I
thought I had previously read.

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 2:59 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind
> everyone up, dont you think I would have found a funnier way
> of doing it than this?

You'd be amazed at some of the stupid stuff you see in UseNet groups. I've
never seen any of these that were actually funny.

The problem is that you are describing something that doesn't seem to make
any sense, or have any obvious explanation. This quite naturally makes
people suspicious.


== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 3:01 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


>> Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back
>> if/when I have a result

> But you've already subbed the speaker and the hiss went
> away or so I thought I had previously read.

And no one here is aware of a "mechanism" that causes speakers to produce
hissing sounds on their own, especially when you say the sound is not
related to the program material or its volume.


== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 4:09 pm
From: Meat Plow


On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:01:33 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>>> Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back if/when I have a
>>> result
>
>> But you've already subbed the speaker and the hiss went away or so I
>> thought I had previously read.
>
> And no one here is aware of a "mechanism" that causes speakers to
> produce hissing sounds on their own, especially when you say the sound
> is not related to the program material or its volume.

Especially if it is just a passive enclosure. Now a woofer with a built
in amp is an entirely different story.


== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 5:35 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i2vi0a$pf1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind
>> everyone up, dont you think I would have found a funnier way
>> of doing it than this?
>
> You'd be amazed at some of the stupid stuff you see in UseNet groups. I've
> never seen any of these that were actually funny.
>
> The problem is that you are describing something that doesn't seem to make
> any sense, or have any obvious explanation. This quite naturally makes
> people suspicious.
>
>

Also, the source sounds suspicious, you must admit ? I mean, dmanzaluni ?
That must be "the man's a loony", mustn't it ? And the nic. Ripanykhazov.
"Rippin' ya clothes off" maybe ?

Dunno. Sorry if I'm being unfair to you, but the more I look at this, the
more it doesn't make any sense, and the more it begins to look like a usenet
windup ...

Arfa

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 30 2010 6:25 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> Dunno. Sorry if I'm being unfair to you, but the more I look
> at this, the more it doesn't make any sense, and the more
> it begins to look like a usenet windup ...

Of course, if it is true, we might read the following in the newspaper...


Woman killed by poisonous snake

Miss so-and-so was killed yesterday when bitten by a viper hiding behind one
of her loudspeakers. The animal had curled up there for warmth, and had
attracted her attention by making random hissing noises when music was
played.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap White Nike Air Force One Shoes Wholesale(http://www.24
hoursneakers.com/) (PayPal Payment)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0a3bc80564b27e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

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