sci.electronics.repair - 22 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple Question about Thermal Cutoff (tco) & Fuses
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9522848ef646160c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 2:06 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"nesesu"
"Phil Allison"
> "j barnes"
>
> > Would it be safe for me to replace the 4AMP TCO with a 10amp 152C
>
> ** Yes.
>
> The amp rating is not important long as it is more than 4.
>

FWIW, I have delved into several of my wife's sewing appliances that
were originally designed for European countries and they seem to
forget the current issue in adapting from 240V to 120V for the NA
market. Her two irons both failed from the overtemperature safety
cutout [self resetting thermal breaker] contacts burning, even through
the cutout should never have tripped.

** The device in question here is a "one shot" thermal fuse.

There are no contacts inside.

I cannot see a Samovar taking much less than 1000-1200watts, like most
kettles, so I would, myself, use a 10A rated cutout. Naturally, when
installing it, it is best to crimp the connections or spot weld but,
in any case, you must wrap the new one time thermal fuse in a wet rag
to keep it cool while attaching it.

** Hardly necessary if you crimp the wires - and anyone with reasonable
soldering skills can solder the lead ends quickly without heating the body
to 152C.

..... Phil

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 5:19 pm
From: Jim Yanik

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com> wrote in
news:fmmck-007CC7.23000717012011@5ad64b5e.bb.sky.com:

> In article
><65201db0-66d6-46b9-be6d-67de7495aed7@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com
>>,
> j barnes <slywinking@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Would it be safe for me to replace the 4AMP TCO with a 10amp 152C and
>> simply add a 4amp fuse immediately before or after the TCO?
>
> JB-
>
> I can't imagine the tea kettle cost much over $30, so it is not cost
> effective to buy the exact part. The price appears to be calculated
> to encourage you to buy a new samovar instead of repairing yours.
>
> From where did you obtain the specifications for the original part?
> What are the samovar's electrical ratings for voltage and power? They
> may be on the bottom or next to the electrical wire.
>
> Several coffee makers I checked all use power in the 600 to 800 watt
> range. If the samovar operates close to 480 watts (4 Amperes at 120
> Volts), you would not want the fuse to blow at 4 Amperes. I suspect
> the function of the original part was to protect against a fire when
> the pot was operated after all the liquid had boiled away. So the 4
> Ampere rating is a maximum operating current, not necessarily the
> current at which it blows.
>
> How were you going to install the replacement? Soldering is not a
> good idea. Solder could melt under normal operating conditions, and
> soldering might damage the TCO if you aren't careful. Crimping is the
> better approach, but it is difficult to get a good crimp with solid
> wires. Some TCOs come with a "crimping ferrule". It is a small metal
> tube (brass?) that you insert two wires into and crimp them together.
>
> Fred
>

I have a Presto Fry Granddaddy deep fryer that the TCO blew when the
bimetal thermostat contacts welded together. AFAIK,they don't make the
Grandaddy anymore,so I unstuck and filed the contacts,then bought a new TCO
at Radio Shack !! that was a few deg C lower than the original,but same
current rating.It's been working fine ever since. I bought new crimp
ferrules at Skycraft Surplus.(local store,Orlando,FL.!)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Reduce power of a microwave oven?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/76e6c7ef368fc8a0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 2:10 pm
From: mike

My 27 year old microwave oven was down below 400W output and taking a long
time to heat my coffee.
So, I went out and bought a 1100W one.
Big mistake.
It works fine on coffee, but WAY overcooks small stuff.
Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
and they modulate the off-time.
I tried to heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around
the outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen.
This really messes up the cheese stuck to it. If I leave it in
the frozen burger, it comes out awful.

What are my options for reducing power?
Yes, I can stick in a pot of water to absorb energy, but I'm
looking for a more elegant solution.
I assume there's nothing I can do on the primary side, cause of the
filament voltage requirements.
Assuming I can find a switch that can take the voltage and current,
can I switch the value of the big cap? Not much else in there to play with.

Alternatively, there's stuff they put in the bottom of microwave popcorn
that heats up from microwaves. What is that stuff? Maybe I can find a
pan with that in the bottom to average out the energy over time.
There's a "as seen on TV" serving plate that you heat in the microwave.
It's made of granite. What is it in the granite that gets heated?
IF I could find a square of floor tile in ceramic or granite, ceramic is
more easily available, I could stick one of them in the bottom of the oven.

Suggestions?
Thanks, mike

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 3:44 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Can you return the oven? You can use the argument that it's not fit for its
intended purpose. Which it isn't.

I always assumed variable power was simple duty-cycle variation --
pulse-width-modulation -- over a fraction of a second. That the "on" time
would be fixed at 15 seconds (!!!), with the off time varied, is absurd. It
would produce exactly the effect you see.

There's also the possibility your sample is defective.

The stuff at the bottom of a microwave-popcorn bag is called a susceptor
sheet. I think it's a ferrite material, but I'm not sure.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Susceptor

Without any food to absorb heat from the susceptor, it would probably
overheat and burn fairly quickly.

You might try putting a brick on the oven, on the remote chance
fire-hardened clay absorbs microwaves. Bricks made with metallic colorants
might be the best place to start.

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 5:35 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

mike wrote:
>
> My 27 year old microwave oven was down below 400W output and taking a long
> time to heat my coffee.
> So, I went out and bought a 1100W one.
> Big mistake.
> It works fine on coffee, but WAY overcooks small stuff.
> Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
> and they modulate the off-time.
> I tried to heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around
> the outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen.
> This really messes up the cheese stuck to it. If I leave it in
> the frozen burger, it comes out awful.
>
> What are my options for reducing power?
> Yes, I can stick in a pot of water to absorb energy, but I'm
> looking for a more elegant solution.
> I assume there's nothing I can do on the primary side, cause of the
> filament voltage requirements.
> Assuming I can find a switch that can take the voltage and current,
> can I switch the value of the big cap? Not much else in there to play with.
>
> Alternatively, there's stuff they put in the bottom of microwave popcorn
> that heats up from microwaves. What is that stuff? Maybe I can find a
> pan with that in the bottom to average out the energy over time.
> There's a "as seen on TV" serving plate that you heat in the microwave.
> It's made of granite. What is it in the granite that gets heated?
> IF I could find a square of floor tile in ceramic or granite, ceramic is
> more easily available, I could stick one of them in the bottom of the oven.
>
> Suggestions?

RTFM to see how to set the cook power.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 5:55 pm
From: mike

Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> mike wrote:
>> My 27 year old microwave oven was down below 400W output and taking a long
>> time to heat my coffee.
>> So, I went out and bought a 1100W one.
>> Big mistake.
>> It works fine on coffee, but WAY overcooks small stuff.
>> Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
>> and they modulate the off-time.
>> I tried to heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around
>> the outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen.
>> This really messes up the cheese stuck to it. If I leave it in
>> the frozen burger, it comes out awful.
>>
>> What are my options for reducing power?
>> Yes, I can stick in a pot of water to absorb energy, but I'm
>> looking for a more elegant solution.
>> I assume there's nothing I can do on the primary side, cause of the
>> filament voltage requirements.
>> Assuming I can find a switch that can take the voltage and current,
>> can I switch the value of the big cap? Not much else in there to play with.
>>
>> Alternatively, there's stuff they put in the bottom of microwave popcorn
>> that heats up from microwaves. What is that stuff? Maybe I can find a
>> pan with that in the bottom to average out the energy over time.
>> There's a "as seen on TV" serving plate that you heat in the microwave.
>> It's made of granite. What is it in the granite that gets heated?
>> IF I could find a square of floor tile in ceramic or granite, ceramic is
>> more easily available, I could stick one of them in the bottom of the oven.
>>
>> Suggestions?
>
>
> RTFM to see how to set the cook power.

Amazing!!!
RTFM reply when I stated EXACTLY how the power setting works.
How about RTFOP?
>
>

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 6:18 pm
From: mike

William Sommerwerck wrote:
> Can you return the oven? You can use the argument that it's not fit for its
> intended purpose. Which it isn't.

Nope, my inability to forecast the consequences is not the fault of the
seller.
>
> I always assumed variable power was simple duty-cycle variation --
> pulse-width-modulation -- over a fraction of a second. That the "on" time
> would be fixed at 15 seconds (!!!), with the off time varied, is absurd. It
> would produce exactly the effect you see.

Yep, that's the way most of 'em work. The problem is the filament in
the magnetron. Much shorter and you don't get any power out cause
the filament ain't hot yet. With enough mass inside the oven, it
averages out pretty well. For a single frozen hamburger at 1100W, not
so much.

Yes, you can buy a microwave with fine-grained setting of continuous
power at most any retailer...for 3X the price.
They have to keep the filament hot while reducing the power. Much more
complicated and not a commodity item >> much higher price.
>
> There's also the possibility your sample is defective.
>
> The stuff at the bottom of a microwave-popcorn bag is called a susceptor
> sheet. I think it's a ferrite material, but I'm not sure.
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Susceptor
>
> Without any food to absorb heat from the susceptor, it would probably
> overheat and burn fairly quickly.

They used to make browning plates with some kind of susceptor in the bottom.
Seems the only place you get 'em today is from TV infomercials at
high prices or on ebay at antique prices.

I do have a microwavable trivet that claims to be made from granite.
Gets hot alright, but it's encased in plastic and not well coupled
to whatever you put on it. A couple of experiments suggest that
while it does divert significant power, it will probably overheat
trying to do what I want.

A cup of water solves the problem, but it's not very elegant.
>
> You might try putting a brick on the oven, on the remote chance
> fire-hardened clay absorbs microwaves. Bricks made with metallic colorants
> might be the best place to start.

There's considerable range of microwave absorbency. I was hoping to find
some kind of commonly available ceramic, like floor tile, that
would work. That's why I asked for input.
Wonder what Home Depot would think if I packed tile samples
into the employee lounge and stuffed 'em into the microwave?
>
>

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 6:53 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/18/2011 5:55 PM mike spake thus:

> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
>> mike wrote:
>>
>>> My 27 year old microwave oven was down below 400W output and
>>> taking a long time to heat my coffee. So, I went out and bought a
>>> 1100W one. Big mistake. It works fine on coffee, but WAY
>>> overcooks small stuff. Yes, it has a power level setting, but the
>>> on-time is 15 seconds and they modulate the off-time. I tried to
>>> heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around the
>>> outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen. This
>>> really messes up the cheese stuck to it. If I leave it in the
>>> frozen burger, it comes out awful.
>>>
>>> What are my options for reducing power?

[snip]

>>> Suggestions?
>>
>> RTFM to see how to set the cook power.
>
> Amazing!!!
> RTFM reply when I stated EXACTLY how the power setting works.
> How about RTFOP?

Mr. Terrell apparently shoots from the hip and never apologizes.

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 11:07 pm
From: Fred McKenzie

In article <ih536g$rco$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
> and they modulate the off-time.
> I tried to heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around
> the outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen.

Mike-

Does the new microwave have a Defrost option? If so, does it also cook
for 15 seconds at full power?

I had a small microwave back in the 70s that had a low power setting.
My memory is a little hazy, but I think the low power setting switched a
capacitor in series with the high voltage transformer primary. It acted
as a ballast to reduce magnetron voltage.

Fred

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 10:39 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <ih5hng$bfu$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:

>Yep, that's the way most of 'em work. The problem is the filament in
>the magnetron. Much shorter and you don't get any power out cause
>the filament ain't hot yet. With enough mass inside the oven, it
>averages out pretty well. For a single frozen hamburger at 1100W, not
>so much.
>
>Yes, you can buy a microwave with fine-grained setting of continuous
>power at most any retailer...for 3X the price.
>They have to keep the filament hot while reducing the power. Much more
>complicated and not a commodity item >> much higher price.

Not that much higher these days, I think. The Toshiba "inverter"
microwave ovens have a variable power level of this general sort, and
they're commodity items to the extent of being buyable at Costco and
probably other big-box stores. They're somewhat more expensive than
ovens fixed-power magnetrons, but not all that much.

However... I had one, and it died within a couple of years in home
use. Our previous microwave had lasted for a couple of decades. I'm
not sure whether this was an odd failure in this unit, or was
characteristic of Toshiba inverter microwaves in general, or just an
result of the "race to the bottom, in price and in quality" which
seems to be affecting the whole consumer-electronics business these
days.

I bought a fixed-power-output commercial-service Amana as a
replacement, in the hopes that it'll last rather longer than the
Toshiba did.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Magnetized tools
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f3276f33a4102318?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 2:44 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 13:33:33 -0800, hrhofmann@att.net wrote:

> On Jan 18, 11:41 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 09:33:35 -0800, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>> >> Unless you're working with magnetic compasses, magnetometers, flux
>> >> gate compasses, CRT's, or magnetic field measuring equipment, I
>> >> don't see much danger or risk from magnetized tools. However, if
>> >> you're playing with the powerful magnets found inside most hard disk
>> >> drives, methinks you should probably exercise some concientious care
>> >> in keeping them away from any magnetic storage material. A "keeper"
>> >> is usually sufficient (such as my steel desk).
>>
>> > I still wouldn't bring a magnetized tool near an analog tape
>> > recorder's play head. However... as you'd demagnetize the head "as a
>> > matter of course" after servicing the recorder, it probably doesn't
>> > matter.
>>
>> Heads were always demagged before leaving my bench so it wasn't ever an
>> issue for me.
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
> I use old microwave magnetrons a number of places around my workshop and
> have never had any problems, I just keep them away from crt's and
> anything that has a magnetic tape involved. They are very handy for
> magnetizing tools, just draw the screwdriver across the surface and
> you're done.

I have a few 12" speakers downstairs that one or two draws across the
magnet does the job. I couldn't do without one magnetic tip screw driver.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PING Jeff Lierbermann
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/46f79b8caaff41aa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 2:56 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:22:17 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Got this out of a Yahoo article today:
>
>A group of more than 100 scientists and experts say in a new report that
>California faces the risk of a massive "superstorm" that could flood a
>quarter of the state's homes and cause $300 billion to $400 billion in
>damage. Researchers point out that the potential scale of destruction in
>this storm scenario is four or five times the amount of damage that could
>be wrought by a major earthquake.
>
>It sounds like the plot of an apocalyptic action movie, but scientists
>with the U.S. Geological Survey warned federal and state emergency
>officials that California's geological history shows such "superstorms"
>have happened in the past, and should be added to the long list of
>natural disasters to worry about in the Golden State.

Yep. All the mailing lists that I'm on have had comments about this,
except the ARES mailing list. Go figure.

I did some digging in order to find out where this alarmist mess came
from. Apparently (not sure yet) the government commissioned various
agencies to produce reports on the worst case environmental scenarios
so that emergency services could be adequately prepared.
Unfortunately, one of the reports read like a warming of impending
doom instead of a training exercise. I traced the source back to:
<http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2010/1312/>
The summary on this page is slightly alarmist, which the new media
expanded to apocalyptic proportions. The actual 201 page PDF report
(plus appendixes) treats it fairly and logically. The summary does
not. The bottom line is that this hypothetical storm has about the
same chance of happening as the next big earthquake. Both are
inevitable, but the timing is indeterminate.

With all the parnoid rants, this would probably be a good time to
unload a surplus boat, inflatable, or submarine.

Of course, more reasearch (money) is necessary. Sigh...

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 3:13 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 14:56:14 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:22:17 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Got this out of a Yahoo article today:
>>
>>A group of more than 100 scientists and experts say in a new report that
>>California faces the risk of a massive "superstorm" that could flood a
>>quarter of the state's homes and cause $300 billion to $400 billion in
>>damage. Researchers point out that the potential scale of destruction in
>>this storm scenario is four or five times the amount of damage that
>>could be wrought by a major earthquake.
>>
>>It sounds like the plot of an apocalyptic action movie, but scientists
>>with the U.S. Geological Survey warned federal and state emergency
>>officials that California's geological history shows such "superstorms"
>>have happened in the past, and should be added to the long list of
>>natural disasters to worry about in the Golden State.
>
> Yep. All the mailing lists that I'm on have had comments about this,
> except the ARES mailing list. Go figure.
>
> I did some digging in order to find out where this alarmist mess came
> from. Apparently (not sure yet) the government commissioned various
> agencies to produce reports on the worst case environmental scenarios so
> that emergency services could be adequately prepared. Unfortunately, one
> of the reports read like a warming of impending doom instead of a
> training exercise. I traced the source back to:
> <http://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2010/1312/>
> The summary on this page is slightly alarmist, which the new media
> expanded to apocalyptic proportions. The actual 201 page PDF report
> (plus appendixes) treats it fairly and logically. The summary does not.
> The bottom line is that this hypothetical storm has about the same
> chance of happening as the next big earthquake. Both are inevitable,
> but the timing is indeterminate.
>
> With all the parnoid rants, this would probably be a good time to unload
> a surplus boat, inflatable, or submarine.
>
> Of course, more reasearch (money) is necessary. Sigh...

I'm not usually into alarmists articles but this one had a smack of
Genuinity.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 4:32 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 1/18/2011 4:56 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> Yep. All the mailing lists that I'm on have had comments
> about this, except the ARES mailing list. Go figure.

*laughs* That's because the guys in Pornwatch are afraid of
actually having to put themselves in harms way instead of
just running around like a bunch of idiots. ;-)

Jeff

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 5:24 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 23:13:42 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I'm not usually into alarmists articles but this one had a smack of
>Genuinity.

Yep. It's happened before. I think it rained for 40 days and 40
nights. See the chapters 6 thru 9 in Genesis. Unfortunately, no
sooner were the drains unclogged and the waters subsided, bureaucracy,
government, war, and all the evils from before the flood were
reinstated.

Maybe move to a houseboat?

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 5:32 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:24:50 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 23:13:42 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I'm not usually into alarmists articles but this one had a smack of
>>Genuinity.
>
> Yep. It's happened before. I think it rained for 40 days and 40
> nights. See the chapters 6 thru 9 in Genesis. Unfortunately, no sooner
> were the drains unclogged and the waters subsided, bureaucracy,
> government, war, and all the evils from before the flood were
> reinstated.
>
> Maybe move to a houseboat?

LOL! Keep us informed.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 6:49 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/18/2011 5:24 PM Jeff Liebermann spake thus:

> On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 23:13:42 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
> <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm not usually into alarmists articles but this one had a smack of
>> Genuinity.
>
> Yep. It's happened before. I think it rained for 40 days and 40
> nights. See the chapters 6 thru 9 in Genesis. Unfortunately, no
> sooner were the drains unclogged and the waters subsided, bureaucracy,
> government, war, and all the evils from before the flood were
> reinstated.
>
> Maybe move to a houseboat?

I suggest Sausalito. Or Half Moon Bay?

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How to repair an invisible machine from the 23rd century?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e431feeea64c740f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 3:00 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 20:40:29 +0100, "Lloyd Hearsewave"
<sore_printer@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I've found an invisible machine from the 23rd century, but it's not working.
>How can I repair it?

You can't. No user serviceable parts inside or outside. I suggest
you call tech support from wherever you bought it.

Also, note that only those deemed worthy can actually see and operate
such a machine. (See the Emperor's Clothes). If you can't see it, I
suggest a remedial course in ethics, morals, tact, logic, quantum
mechanics, and not wasting any one's time. Some good deeds would also
be helpful. The machine should slowly become visible as your net
worthiness improves.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 7:16 pm
From: "Shaun"

"Lloyd Hearsewave" <sore_printer@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ih4qb8$4mg$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> I've found an invisible machine from the 23rd century, but it's not
> working.
>
> How can I repair it?
>
>

WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN SMOKING BOY?????

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Founs: Rich seam of schematics.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/359e8e96c660f891?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 3:25 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 17:36:33 -0000, "Ian Field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>A bit slow, and likely to be even more so if everyone wades in at once but
>here's the link:
>
>http://j.mdownload1.free.fr/Schemas/

Thanks!

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sanyo TV
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e4c8f5b72f9e8d7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 18 2011 5:28 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On Mon, 17 Jan 2011 23:30:37 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> ?mike.terrell@earthlink.net? wrote:
>
> ?
>
> ?
> ? Yawn. Phil is in Australia. It's also where you should be. They
> ?don't require you to have brains in the outback.
>
> Gee, Michael, the guy was falling down drunk when he wrote that, give
> the poor lush a break! ?g?

He does that crap all the time, under different names.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV picture distorted
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ec61658f4376abe1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 12:59 am
From: "PE"

Why ask a question to which you obviously already know the answer? What's
your point?

<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:0a9046ac-8c12-4177-ad07-e964ed085da3@t23g2000vby.googlegroups.com...
> On Jan 17, 1:10 am, "``ZACK``" <youwillfine...@home.com.au> wrote:
>> "PE" <p...@ix.netcom.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:_PednQsdJv8fOK7QnZ2dnUVZ_tOdnZ2d@earthlink.com...> Hi all: My 15-yr
>> old Toshiba 27" crt television has recently developed a
>> > problem which is that approx 15 minutes after being turned on, the
>> > picture
>> > bows inward on the left and right sides. Then, after a few more
>> > minutes,
>> > the picture resolves and returns to normal and remains perfect for the
>> > remaining time the tv is on. If the symptom described above means the
>> > crt
>> > is wearing out, so be it, the set will soon be history. However, I'm
>> > wondering whether some other, replaceable part, might be going bad and
>> > causing the temporarily distorted picture.
>>
>> > Would appreciate any suggestions re. probable cause(s) of symptom
>> > described above. Am basically novice, but handy and with soldering
>> > skills, and have done a few simple tv repairs in the past. Thanks for
>> > your replies!
>>
>> horizontal coupling cap
>> faulty yoke
>> or flyback tranformer circuit
>> pincushion transformer circuit
>> or try
>> herehttp://www.devileye.net/catalog/boiling_liquefied_gas/side_pincushion...
>>
>> orhttp://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=bCP&rls=org...
>
> DIdn't you get enough relies on alt.home.repair????
>

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