sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Reduce power of a microwave oven? - 10 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/76e6c7ef368fc8a0?hl=en
* Repair or replacing a GE Spacemaker Microwave? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c1d6b4bd44bdd1d7?hl=en
* Pet hates ? - 7 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
* ESR meters repository - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ef29050e57f5e655?hl=en
* Awesome speakers!! - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/19ed616a0fe70f02?hl=en
* Denon AVR 4308 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cd951501a407d472?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Reduce power of a microwave oven?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/76e6c7ef368fc8a0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 12:51 pm
From: Lab1 <.@...>

On 1/19/2011 3:34 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> "David Nebenzahl"<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote in message
> news:4d374867$0$2362$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
>> On 1/19/2011 9:24 AM William Sommerwerck spake thus:
>
>>> Oddly, the Wikipedia article claims that microwave cooking heats food
> more
>>> evenly than any other method, when, in fact, it heats from the outside
> in,
>>> as does every other cooking method, and can be extremely uneven, if part
> of
>>> the dish is sitting in a standing-wave node.
>
>> ... which should give further pause to those who claim that Wikipedia is
>> full of good, accurate information ...
>
> It is. No one is claiming it's always absolutely perfect.

Reminds me of this interesting video showing how microwave energy is
distributed inside a standard microwave...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAAXpKdQ-mk

--
-Scott

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 12:53 pm
From: mike

Fred McKenzie wrote:
> In article <ih536g$rco$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> mike <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
>> and they modulate the off-time.
>> I tried to heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around
>> the outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen.
>
> Mike-
>
> Does the new microwave have a Defrost option? If so, does it also cook
> for 15 seconds at full power?
>
> I had a small microwave back in the 70s that had a low power setting.
> My memory is a little hazy, but I think the low power setting switched a
> capacitor in series with the high voltage transformer primary. It acted
> as a ballast to reduce magnetron voltage.
>
> Fred
Well, that's what I was asking about.
I don't think there's anything you can do in the primary circuit.
The magnetron filament runs off the same transformer as the high voltage.
If you reduce the average input, you also reduce the average filament
voltage/temperature.
There are two basic issues that I can think of.
1) It takes time for the filament to come up to temperature.
2) The more you thermal-cycle the filament, the shorter the life.
The 15-seconds is a compromise that mostly works.

If you want to pulse the anode, you have to have a separate transformer for
the filament to keep it up to temperature while you pulse the anode.
Conceptually trivial, but it adds to the cost.

As I mentioned in the original posting, you probably can change the value
of the secondary cap, but that takes a high-voltage switch.
I'm interested to learn if anybody's done that. Or if there's
any theoretical basis for concluding that it's a bad idea.

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 12:55 pm
From: mike

PeterD wrote:
> On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 05:55:03 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>>> Can you return the oven? You can use the argument
>>>> that it's not fit for its intended purpose. Which it isn't.
>>> Nope, my inability to forecast the consequences is not
>>> the fault of the seller.
>> If your description is correct, the oven is grossly misdesigned. You do not
>> implement variable power by turning the magenetron on for 15 seconds, then
>> letting it sit for a minute! I've /never/ seen a microwave oven that works
>> that way. My home GE works fine, as do all those I've seen where I've
>> worked.
>>
>
> Huh? Virtually all the ones I've seen do just that: run a 10 to 15
> second on/off time cycle. The magnetron is turned on with a relay, so
> rapid cycling just begs to blow that relay.
It's worse than that.
A triac can fix the relay issue. The problem is the thermal
time constant of the magnetron filament.

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 1:31 pm
From: mike

larry moe 'n curly wrote:
>
> mike wrote:
>
>> My 27 year old microwave oven was down below 400W output and taking a long
>> time to heat my coffee.
>> So, I went out and bought a 1100W one.
>> Big mistake.
>> It works fine on coffee, but WAY overcooks small stuff.
>> Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
>> and they modulate the off-time.
>
>> Suggestions?
>
> Put in a smaller high voltage capacitor?
Thanks for repeating one of my suggested options.
Can you be a little more theoretical?
One reference suggested that the cap is actually
sized to resonate with the transformer. That would make
the change of cap value much more sensitive than just a power
ratio.
Relevant input?
Thanks, mike
>
> Get an oven with inverter power control, like a Panasonic?
Simple matter of price ;-)

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 1:42 pm
From: whit3rd

On Jan 19, 5:55 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> > Yep, that's the way most of 'em work. The problem is the filament in
> > the magnetron. Much shorter and you don't get any power out cause
> > the filament ain't hot yet.

> I've never heard of varying a magnetron's power by adjusting its filament
> voltage! I've always ASS+U+MEd there was some way of turning the tube on and
> off by varying an electrode voltage.

The filament winding is on the same transformer as the HV, so the
filament turns off when the transformer isn't powered; and magnetrons
are a diode, it ONLY has the HV electrode available to control the
power.
If there were separate filament and HV transformers, the price would
reflect this 'feature' in unpleasant ways.

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 2:01 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"whit3rd" <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:f2ff7a8b-88eb-47b8-b3d5-1a110939e365@a10g2000vby.googlegroups.com...

> The filament winding is on the same transformer as the HV,
> so the filament turns off when the transformer isn't powered;
> and magnetrons are a diode, it ONLY has the HV electrode
> available to control the power.

Ineed, the patent I referred to shows the filament secondary as part of the
main transformer. But the system presumably works.

> If there were separate filament and HV transformers, the price
> would reflect this 'feature' in unpleasant ways.

I can't imagine a separate filament transformer being /that/ expensive.

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 3:17 pm
From: whit3rd

On Jan 19, 2:01 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> "whit3rd" <whit...@gmail.com> wrote in message

> Ineed, the patent I referred to shows the filament secondary as part of the
> main transformer. But the system presumably works.
>
> > If there were separate filament and HV transformers, the price
> > would reflect this 'feature' in unpleasant ways.
>
> I can't imagine a separate filament transformer being /that/ expensive.

But, you need to get multikilovolt safety testing on two magnetic
parts,
you need safe wiring in case the 'extra' wires come loose, and you
then require a media campaign to trumpet the added feature, and
a new model number for the finished product, which has to have a
snazzy front-panel rework to distinguish it from the unenhanced
model (which now sells at a different price point)... and the markup
on this $2 technical improvement can easily get you to $120 addon
at the retail store. The marketing department would like that to
be $225.

Yes, it's hard to imagine a separate filament transformer as
expensive.
The marketing department has expert imaginers to do the heavy work
of imagining the price upward. Ever upward. Excelsior!

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 4:35 pm
From: Fleetie

mike wrote:
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:

>> Then stick a damn glass of water in the oven to adsorb some of the
>> energy.
>>
> You're just DETERMINED NOT TO READ the original posting...where I
> mentioned that too.
> Although, I'd not considered adsorption as a relevant process.

You're right: Adsorption is definitely not relevant in this context!

Martin

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 5:59 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/19/2011 12:55 PM mike spake thus:

> PeterD wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 05:55:03 -0800, "William Sommerwerck"
>> <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>>>> Can you return the oven? You can use the argument that it's
>>>>> not fit for its intended purpose. Which it isn't.
>>>>
>>>> Nope, my inability to forecast the consequences is not the
>>>> fault of the seller.
>>>
>>> If your description is correct, the oven is grossly misdesigned.
>>> You do not implement variable power by turning the magenetron on
>>> for 15 seconds, then letting it sit for a minute! I've /never/
>>> seen a microwave oven that works that way. My home GE works fine,
>>> as do all those I've seen where I've worked.
>>
>> Huh? Virtually all the ones I've seen do just that: run a 10 to 15
>> second on/off time cycle. The magnetron is turned on with a relay,
>> so rapid cycling just begs to blow that relay.
>
> It's worse than that. A triac can fix the relay issue. The problem
> is the thermal time constant of the magnetron filament.

I guess I'm showing my ignorance here, as I don't know much about
magnetrons, but why can't you just let the filament burn while you cycle
the HV, like you'd do with any other ordinary tube? I mean, with other
tubes, it's OK to apply power to the heater without any anode voltage,
right?

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 6:01 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ih7ie4$nb5$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> PeterD wrote:
>> On Tue, 18 Jan 2011 20:35:49 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
>> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>> mike wrote:
>>>> My 27 year old microwave oven was down below 400W output and taking a
>>>> long
>>>> time to heat my coffee.
>>>> So, I went out and bought a 1100W one.
>>>> Big mistake.
>>>> It works fine on coffee, but WAY overcooks small stuff.
>>>> Yes, it has a power level setting, but the on-time is 15 seconds
>>>> and they modulate the off-time.
>>>> I tried to heat a frozen hamburger patty. It boils the liquid around
>>>> the outside for 15 seconds, but the inside is still frozen.
>>>> This really messes up the cheese stuck to it. If I leave it in
>>>> the frozen burger, it comes out awful.
>>>>
>>>> What are my options for reducing power?
>>>> Yes, I can stick in a pot of water to absorb energy, but I'm
>>>> looking for a more elegant solution.
>>>> I assume there's nothing I can do on the primary side, cause of the
>>>> filament voltage requirements.
>>>> Assuming I can find a switch that can take the voltage and current,
>>>> can I switch the value of the big cap? Not much else in there to play
>>>> with.
>>>>
>>>> Alternatively, there's stuff they put in the bottom of microwave
>>>> popcorn
>>>> that heats up from microwaves. What is that stuff? Maybe I can find a
>>>> pan with that in the bottom to average out the energy over time.
>>>> There's a "as seen on TV" serving plate that you heat in the microwave.
>>>> It's made of granite. What is it in the granite that gets heated?
>>>> IF I could find a square of floor tile in ceramic or granite, ceramic
>>>> is
>>>> more easily available, I could stick one of them in the bottom of the
>>>> oven.
>>>>
>>>> Suggestions?
>>>
>>> RTFM to see how to set the cook power.
>>
>> Or use the defrost cycle!
>
> When I ask a question on line, I go to great lengths to describe the issue
> in detail to keep the discussion from running off in all directions.
> It rarely works, but I keep hoping that people will actually read the
> info before shooting from the hip.
>
> With this, and every other low-end non-inverter microwave oven I've ever
> encountered, the power is adjusted by pulsing the magnetron in bursts
> of approximately 15 seconds followed by an off-time required to get the
> average power you programmed.
> The RELEVANT number is the 15 second MINIMUM on-time. Doesn't matter
> what buttons you push, you can't get an on-time less than 15 seconds
> unless
> you program a single burst that's shorter.
> If 15 seconds is long enough to boil the liquid in part of the payload,
> defrosting can make a mess of things.
>
> In this case, the "defrost" button has some algorithm that they don't
> disclose
> and I've been too lazy to reverse-engineer, but the minimum on-time
> is still about 15 seconds.
> It's a fundamental property of the design.

All correct by my experience, also

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repair or replacing a GE Spacemaker Microwave?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c1d6b4bd44bdd1d7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 1:34 pm
From: whit3rd

On Jan 19, 9:55 am, BSAKing <bsak...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> In any event, this morning old Betsy decided not to heat anything up.
> All the bells and whistles are there, fan runs, etc, lights action,
> keypad works, just no heat. So I suspect more than likely the
> magnetron or xformer.
>
> I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a secondary fuse I could
> check on this model before I turf it? Obviously main one is good as
> everything else powers on.

It's likely NOT the transformer, but the HV capacitor or the magnetron
could
be at fault. In either case, it's worth the cost of repair parts to
fix, but
there's high voltages involved. Consider taking it to a repair shop.

These things are heavy, alas, and you'll have some awkward moments
trying to unbolt it. If you pop the cover and see a schematic,
there will be a chance to find/replace fuses and detect loose wires
before
opening your wallet wide. BEWARE THE HV CAPACITOR, it is a metal
can (smaller than a beer can) and cannot be presumed safe until you
short its terminals.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 1:41 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 09:55:22 -0800 (PST), BSAKing <bsaking@gmail.com>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

>From the manual, the model number is a JVM 250 BVC or JVM 250 WVC

Parts List and Exploded Views:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-JVM250BV01/0432/0123370?searchedModel=JVM250BV&blt=
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Microwave-Parts/Model-JVM250WV01/0432/0123370?searchedModel=JVM250WV&blt=06

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 1:45 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Lab1 wrote:
>
> On 1/19/2011 2:50 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > Lab1 wrote:
> >>
> >> On 1/19/2011 9:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> >>> Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
> >>> surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it is
> >>> even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between. I
> >>> always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on my
> >>> clothing - I've not worn white lab coats for many a year.
> >>
> >> Heat sink compound is usually very necessary.
> >>
> >> One of my pet hates is torx screws with a pin in the center.
> >
> >
> > Can't afford $5 for a set of security bits?
>
> Yes, but given the frequency that I run into those I find my punch set
> and hammer tend to do the trick - security torx to just torx! ;)

As long as there is no liability involved. If someone else opens it
with a 'just torx' tool and is hurt or killed, you could be sued. I
just carry the security tools in my toolbox and and ready for a loot of
different hardware. I even keep Posidrive in the same toolbox.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 2:05 pm
From: whit3rd

On Jan 19, 6:54 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
> surfaces.

Worse, hotmelt glue or cyanoacrylate on a solder joint. Hit it with
the iron,
and the tip seems like it'll NEVER get clean again.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 2:46 pm
From: Lab1 <.@...>

On 1/19/2011 5:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
> On Jan 19, 6:54 am, "N_Cook"<dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally conductive
>> surfaces.
>
> Worse, hotmelt glue or cyanoacrylate on a solder joint. Hit it with
> the iron,
> and the tip seems like it'll NEVER get clean again.

Oh yeah, GM delco car radios, IMPOSSIBLE to work on those circuit boards
due to some resin/glue coating on everything.

--
-Scott

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 3:05 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Nutcase Kook "
>
> Great dollops of that white goo between metal to metal thermally
> conductive
> surfaces. Heatsink to metal casing in amplifiers etc. I'm not sure why it
> is
> even necessary with perhaps 20 square inches of contact and bolts between.

** Err - because there are always large areas between fasteners that have
air gaps.

> I always wipe away with paper etc on first parting but always some gets on
> my
> clothing

** When you separate the metal parts - cover them both with " Glad Wrap".

It later peels off easily and leaves almost all the white grease behind.

Anyone here remember the Bose 1800 /1801 amplifiers ??

Discovered this trick when servicing those horrible POS.

..... Phil

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 3:46 pm
From: Ron

On 19/01/2011 23:05, Phil Allison wrote:

>
> Anyone here remember the Bose 1800 /1801 amplifiers ??
>

Remember them! I've still got one, still works too. Not that I would use
it for anything other than a door stop mind.

Ron

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 4:14 pm
From: Allodoxaphobia

On Wed, 19 Jan 2011 16:39:09 -0000, N_Cook wrote:
>
> The harware that I always have problems with in the UK , never organised a
> stock of, is UNF and UNC nuts and bolts for USA kit. And of course,vice
> versa, repairers in USA never have metric (and lesser extent BA) for UK and
> Japanese kit

Here in the colonies, whenever I have a piece of unrepairable Made in
Japan, Made in Tiawan, Made in Korea kit, or Made in China POS that is
going to the landfill, I use some of my 'mental health' time to
disassemble the thing and toss all the screws, nuts, washers, shaft nuts
and washers, etc. into a bank of 'metric' jelly jars.
WFM

Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | jonz | W3DHJ | linux
38.24N 104.55W | @ config.com | Jonesy | OS/2
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 5:52 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ih7bqe$ajf$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> I once got in a lot of trouble with my boss when I was young and worked
> for
>> a U.S. based company. At that time, I didn't understand that there was a
> big
>> difference between British 'tongue-in-cheek' humour, and the much more
>> direct U.S. type. I was talking on the phone to one of the designers of a
>> piece of equipment that we sold here in the UK, and asked the guy if he
>> could arrange to send me some screws for the cabinet, as they were a
> thread
>> that we didn't readily get over here. He asked if I knew exactly what
>> size
>> they were so I replied, quick as a flash, thinking that I was being
>> funny,
>> "I guess that they are round about 3/16ths APF." "What's APF ?" the guy
>> asked. "American Piss Fit", said I ...
>
>> Stony silence on the phone. Half an hour later, I was summoned to the
> boss's
>> office. Apparently, the guy had been really offended by this, thinking
> that
>> it was a slur on what he considered to be good American engineering, and
> had
>> called my boss to complain about me. Just goes to show how easily offence
>> can be caused between nations, even when they speak what's basically the
>> same language ... :-)
>
> It's hard /not/ to interpret such a description as an intentional insult.
> I
> can't imagine what it actually means -- in any innocuous sense, anyway.
>
>

There ya go then ! Anyone from the UK would see it as a quick-fire
throw-away line, and would laugh at it. It's sort of intended to be
'barbed', but not in a malicious way. It's a very hard to describe form of
humour that is quite prevalent over here.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ESR meters repository
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ef29050e57f5e655?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 1:51 pm
From: Kripton

hi

for those who want to know more about it I ran a web site about the esr meters
comments welcomed

http://kripton2035.free.fr/esr-repository.html

regards,

--
---
Kripton

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 2:25 pm
From: Baron

Kripton Inscribed thus:

> hi
>
> for those who want to know more about it I ran a web site about the
> esr meters comments welcomed
>
> http://kripton2035.free.fr/esr-repository.html
>
> regards,
>

Interesting site ! Could do with a little tidying up of the graphics.
Have bookmarked it for reference. I've grabbed some notes. :-)
Thanks.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Awesome speakers!!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/19ed616a0fe70f02?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 4:28 pm
From: Archon

I was thinking of buying these, can anyone suggest some suitable gold
infused 200 Amp speaker wire with low oxygen content?

http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-electronics-New-pair-of-High-End-Speaker-ULR-Newton-Tesla-1-1-by-ULR-W0QQAdIdZ233554094

JC

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 4:46 pm
From: Lab1 <.@...>

On 1/19/2011 7:28 PM, Archon wrote:
> I was thinking of buying these, can anyone suggest some suitable gold
> infused 200 Amp speaker wire with low oxygen content?

3/0 copper is the only wire you will find that can handle 200 amps, and
it's about 1/2 inch in diameter.

I think you mean 200 watts.

--
-Scott

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 5:55 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 1/19/2011 4:28 PM Archon spake thus:

> I was thinking of buying these, can anyone suggest some suitable gold
> infused 200 Amp speaker wire with low oxygen content?
>
> http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-electronics-New-pair-of-High-End-Speaker-ULR-Newton-Tesla-1-1-by-ULR-W0QQAdIdZ233554094

Oh, that site is an absolute gem. To wit:

"To provide you this we put a bi-wiring gold-plated back panel with
jumper bar connectors who can be removes."

"ULR was founded in 1986 and have been involve with industrial
vibrations and acoustic control equipment ..."

"We use our special multi frequency liztwire. We do our own wires. They
are impossible to find in anyplace. Those wires are important because
they conduct more efficiently the current to your drivers. The electrons
(the negative electric particle of an atom) in the current do not
propagate the same way when they are induce by different frequency. More
the frequency is high, more those electrons stay on the surface of the
conductors. It�s call a liztwire effect or skin effect. We can�t explain
all here because we would need many pages but this subject is well
documented in physics."

(Well, obviously English is not their first language. But some of the
howlers here transcend any language barriers!)

--
Comment on quaint Usenet customs, from Usenet:

To me, the *plonk...* reminds me of the old man at the public hearing
who stands to make his point, then removes his hearing aid as a sign
that he is not going to hear any rebuttals.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Denon AVR 4308
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cd951501a407d472?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 19 2011 5:48 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:i4EZo.4670$NG3.1244@newsfe22.ams2...
> Anyone got a copy of the service manual for this monster AV amp ? Looks
> like the supply to the DSP board is missing, but the PSU regulator board
> is a 'daughter' from the main board, and a bit buried, so not easy to work
> on, removed. Just need a copy of the schematic for the power supply and
> regulators, so I can confirm that the supply is missing, and see exactly
> where it comes from. Might then stand a chance of fixing it 'cold'.
>
> TIA
>
> Arfa

All in hand now. One of the kind souls on here is sending me a copy. :-)

Arfa

==============================================================================

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