sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 13 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nickel plated polyimide--where to get?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8bee83d05dbdcb50?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 12:53 am
From: Uwe Hercksen

William Sommerwerck schrieb:

> Wouldn't it be possible to make the polyimide conductive by rubbing graphite
> into its surface ("The Audio Amateur" had at least one article about
> home-made electrostatic speakers that showed how to do this with Mylar),
> then plate it?

Hello,

it will be possible to get a nickel layer on the polyiimide if you start
galvanic plating with very low currents and the gradually increase it.
But the problem is the poor fixation of the nickel layer to the
polyimide. The normal pcb material uses a special glue for the fixation
of the copper foil to the base material.

Bye

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75221f50699654ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 2:03 am
From: cindy

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3c6e97114364b9ab?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 2:04 am
From: cindy

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha PF 1000 piano , 2002
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2fdc9f41e99e9293?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 2:28 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ihee1u$gkh$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time or
> temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside open
> width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs
> against
> it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that will
> accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw on one
> side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into account.
>
>

I have tried heating deformed keys with a hot air gun, and found it very
difficult. If you are very careful you can just about pull things into a
different shape if it is fouling something, but I found heating of a large
area often reults in the plastic shrinking and the key becoming too short to
fit/work at all. Different plastics may have different properties though,
these were old Roland keys no longer available.

Also there seems to be a fine tolerance between getting the plastic pliable
enough to remould, and so pliable it runs into a goo, which you have no hope
of moulding back to shape. A temperature controlled oven is probably your
best bet,k and you will need a lot of practice on something disposible
first.

Gareth.

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 2:44 am
From: "N_Cook"

Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:1c2dnep4W4nLyaDQnZ2dnUVZ8m-dnZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ihee1u$gkh$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> >2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time or
> > temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside open
> > width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs
> > against
> > it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that will
> > accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw on
one
> > side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into account.
> >
> >
>
>
> I have tried heating deformed keys with a hot air gun, and found it very
> difficult. If you are very careful you can just about pull things into a
> different shape if it is fouling something, but I found heating of a large
> area often reults in the plastic shrinking and the key becoming too short
to
> fit/work at all. Different plastics may have different properties
though,
> these were old Roland keys no longer available.
>
> Also there seems to be a fine tolerance between getting the plastic
pliable
> enough to remould, and so pliable it runs into a goo, which you have no
hope
> of moulding back to shape. A temperature controlled oven is probably your
> best bet,k and you will need a lot of practice on something disposible
> first.
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>

In the next hour I will tackle this. Have something like a 30 amp ceramic
connector block with the metal part removed and hole large enough to take a
brass cased thermometer wedged inside with key laid sideways on a large PTFE
slab. This ceramic small enough to go inside plastic recess and only touch
the one face most deformed. Starting at 60 degrees from hot air I will
increase by 10 deg steps , measuring with Vernier each time.

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 2:47 am
From: "N_Cook"

I had previously swapped the erroneous keys with relatively unused top
actave ones , showing it was a key problem , not guide pillar or pivot
problem. They still stick in new position but if I make matters worse its
not too disastrous

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 5:53 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:1c2dnep4W4nLyaDQnZ2dnUVZ8m-dnZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ihee1u$gkh$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>>2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time or
>> temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside open
>> width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs
>> against
>> it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that will
>> accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw on
>> one
>> side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into account.
>>
>>
>
>
> I have tried heating deformed keys with a hot air gun, and found it very
> difficult. If you are very careful you can just about pull things into a
> different shape if it is fouling something, but I found heating of a large
> area often reults in the plastic shrinking and the key becoming too short
> to fit/work at all. Different plastics may have different properties
> though, these were old Roland keys no longer available.
>
> Also there seems to be a fine tolerance between getting the plastic
> pliable enough to remould, and so pliable it runs into a goo, which you
> have no hope of moulding back to shape. A temperature controlled oven is
> probably your best bet,k and you will need a lot of practice on something
> disposible first.
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>

Oh, and boiling water is not hot enough unfortunately.

Gareth.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 6:15 am
From: "N_Cook"

Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:2YKdnb3V5ujHGaDQnZ2dnUVZ8qednZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:1c2dnep4W4nLyaDQnZ2dnUVZ8m-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> >
> > "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:ihee1u$gkh$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> >>2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time or
> >> temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside open
> >> width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs
> >> against
> >> it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that
will
> >> accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw on
> >> one
> >> side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into
account.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > I have tried heating deformed keys with a hot air gun, and found it very
> > difficult. If you are very careful you can just about pull things into
a
> > different shape if it is fouling something, but I found heating of a
large
> > area often reults in the plastic shrinking and the key becoming too
short
> > to fit/work at all. Different plastics may have different properties
> > though, these were old Roland keys no longer available.
> >
> > Also there seems to be a fine tolerance between getting the plastic
> > pliable enough to remould, and so pliable it runs into a goo, which you
> > have no hope of moulding back to shape. A temperature controlled oven
is
> > probably your best bet,k and you will need a lot of practice on
something
> > disposible first.
> >
> >
> >
> > Gareth.
> >
>
>
>
> Oh, and boiling water is not hot enough unfortunately.
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>

Just short

Using my ceramic block method, melting point around 105 to 120 degree C.
Opened up one side about .1mm and worse sticking although the "correct" side
to compensate , but more convincing now a rotation problem along the key
axis. I'd just allowed the key to rotate more. Hopefully such slight melting
will be recoverable now real reason of failure found.
I'd noticed these keys removed and replaced easier , and didn't seat well,
than the good keys so now assumed a wear problem at the pivot end. Found
some ball bearings to take measurements from good and bad key recesses with
Vernier callipers. Cleaning off the grease inside , a part of the pivot end
housing broke away. I've previously repaired Yamaha keys on a different
piano that had been kicked over - moulding repacement sections as original
flaked off parts missing in the original incident.
This one must have been cracked but holding together enough to use /remove/
replace but not locally clean. The other one on very close inspection a
short crack visible and stressing remainder opened up more of the crack.
Will capilliary superglue and reinforce with "hot melt soldering" in the non
contact areas of both key breaks.
Crack on one face allowing the key to rotate on the pivot slightly, then
rubbing action at the play end.

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 6:23 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ihk1id$4io$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:2YKdnb3V5ujHGaDQnZ2dnUVZ8qednZ2d@bt.com...
>>
>> "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
>> news:1c2dnep4W4nLyaDQnZ2dnUVZ8m-dnZ2d@bt.com...
>> >
>> > "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
>> > news:ihee1u$gkh$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> >>2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time or
>> >> temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside
>> >> open
>> >> width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs
>> >> against
>> >> it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that
> will
>> >> accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw on
>> >> one
>> >> side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into
> account.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> > I have tried heating deformed keys with a hot air gun, and found it
>> > very
>> > difficult. If you are very careful you can just about pull things into
> a
>> > different shape if it is fouling something, but I found heating of a
> large
>> > area often reults in the plastic shrinking and the key becoming too
> short
>> > to fit/work at all. Different plastics may have different properties
>> > though, these were old Roland keys no longer available.
>> >
>> > Also there seems to be a fine tolerance between getting the plastic
>> > pliable enough to remould, and so pliable it runs into a goo, which you
>> > have no hope of moulding back to shape. A temperature controlled oven
> is
>> > probably your best bet,k and you will need a lot of practice on
> something
>> > disposible first.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Gareth.
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> Oh, and boiling water is not hot enough unfortunately.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gareth.
>>
>>
>
> Just short
>
> Using my ceramic block method, melting point around 105 to 120 degree C.
> Opened up one side about .1mm and worse sticking although the "correct"
> side
> to compensate , but more convincing now a rotation problem along the key
> axis. I'd just allowed the key to rotate more. Hopefully such slight
> melting
> will be recoverable now real reason of failure found.
> I'd noticed these keys removed and replaced easier , and didn't seat well,
> than the good keys so now assumed a wear problem at the pivot end. Found
> some ball bearings to take measurements from good and bad key recesses
> with
> Vernier callipers. Cleaning off the grease inside , a part of the pivot
> end
> housing broke away. I've previously repaired Yamaha keys on a different
> piano that had been kicked over - moulding repacement sections as original
> flaked off parts missing in the original incident.
> This one must have been cracked but holding together enough to use
> /remove/
> replace but not locally clean. The other one on very close inspection a
> short crack visible and stressing remainder opened up more of the crack.
> Will capilliary superglue and reinforce with "hot melt soldering" in the
> non
> contact areas of both key breaks.
> Crack on one face allowing the key to rotate on the pivot slightly, then
> rubbing action at the play end.
>
>

IMHO you'd do a lot better buying new keys and charging the customer for
them, but whatever floats your boat I suppose.

Gareth.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 7:36 am
From: "N_Cook"

Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:H9ednVRlS8b9FqDQnZ2dnUVZ8uydnZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ihk1id$4io$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> > Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
> > news:2YKdnb3V5ujHGaDQnZ2dnUVZ8qednZ2d@bt.com...
> >>
> >> "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
> >> news:1c2dnep4W4nLyaDQnZ2dnUVZ8m-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> >> >
> >> > "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> >> > news:ihee1u$gkh$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> >> >>2 of the keys are sticking, because the plastic has warped with time
or
> >> >> temperature. Instead of internal dimension of 18.7mm the underside
> >> >> open
> >> >> width is now about 18.3mm where it abuts the static pillar and rubs
> >> >> against
> >> >> it. Any recognised safe method of locally heating or something that
> > will
> >> >> accurately realign the plastic and retain reformed shape? the throw
on
> >> >> one
> >> >> side is likely different to the other side so needs taking into
> > account.
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I have tried heating deformed keys with a hot air gun, and found it
> >> > very
> >> > difficult. If you are very careful you can just about pull things
into
> > a
> >> > different shape if it is fouling something, but I found heating of a
> > large
> >> > area often reults in the plastic shrinking and the key becoming too
> > short
> >> > to fit/work at all. Different plastics may have different
properties
> >> > though, these were old Roland keys no longer available.
> >> >
> >> > Also there seems to be a fine tolerance between getting the plastic
> >> > pliable enough to remould, and so pliable it runs into a goo, which
you
> >> > have no hope of moulding back to shape. A temperature controlled
oven
> > is
> >> > probably your best bet,k and you will need a lot of practice on
> > something
> >> > disposible first.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Gareth.
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Oh, and boiling water is not hot enough unfortunately.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Gareth.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Just short
> >
> > Using my ceramic block method, melting point around 105 to 120 degree C.
> > Opened up one side about .1mm and worse sticking although the "correct"
> > side
> > to compensate , but more convincing now a rotation problem along the key
> > axis. I'd just allowed the key to rotate more. Hopefully such slight
> > melting
> > will be recoverable now real reason of failure found.
> > I'd noticed these keys removed and replaced easier , and didn't seat
well,
> > than the good keys so now assumed a wear problem at the pivot end. Found
> > some ball bearings to take measurements from good and bad key recesses
> > with
> > Vernier callipers. Cleaning off the grease inside , a part of the pivot
> > end
> > housing broke away. I've previously repaired Yamaha keys on a different
> > piano that had been kicked over - moulding repacement sections as
original
> > flaked off parts missing in the original incident.
> > This one must have been cracked but holding together enough to use
> > /remove/
> > replace but not locally clean. The other one on very close inspection a
> > short crack visible and stressing remainder opened up more of the crack.
> > Will capilliary superglue and reinforce with "hot melt soldering" in the
> > non
> > contact areas of both key breaks.
> > Crack on one face allowing the key to rotate on the pivot slightly, then
> > rubbing action at the play end.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> IMHO you'd do a lot better buying new keys and charging the customer for
> them, but whatever floats your boat I suppose.
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>

Both now working better than the worst of all the remaining good keys.
I consider I've failed if I have to rely on main agents for anything. It
means I've copped out and not learned anything along the way.

These 2 and IIRC the previous Yamaha keys have failed where there is ,
AFAIK, unnecessary necking at the pivot end and the narrower of the rearmost
2 vertical flanges has broken away.

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 7:40 am
From: "N_Cook"

Both now working better than the worst of all the remaining good keys.
I consider I've failed if I have to rely on main agents for anything. It
means I've copped out, wasted time on ordering and delivery process, and not
learned anything along the way. Especially such as these great lumps that I
can only work on and temporary storage, safely without getting a strained
back, as the 2 main sections , on end vertically, strapped to the wall.

These 2 and IIRC the previous Yamaha keys have failed where there is ,
AFAIK, unnecessary necking at the pivot end and the narrower of the rearmost
2 vertical flanges has broken away.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Two phases or not?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0a29a801d6e01e9e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 2:48 am
From: JW

On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 14:23:35 -0500 "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in Message id:
<MaWdnaQtrvvZHaHQnZ2dnUVZ_oKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:

>
>Jeffrey Angus wrote:
>>
>> On 1/23/2011 9:05 AM, Jamie wrote:
>> > Jeffrey Angus wrote:
>> >> It's single phase.
>> >>
>> >> Jeff
>> > Big JOKE!
>> >
>> > You fail.
>>
>> I bow to your superior logic and wit.
>
>
> Look at his website before you concede.
>
>http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5/

Ack! I almost went blind after seeing that pic on the right.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 4:02 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I should've included in the "Most 3-wire motors are PSC types" statement:
if the motors are not for 3-phase.

Just to be more specific (although 3-phase wasn't being included in the
topic).

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:j59%o.612113$De6.37826@en-nntp-01.dc1.easynews.com...
> Jamie, what info is included on the motor's data plate/label? Is there a
> capacitance included, with a low value of 25uF or less?
>
> I think you may have been looking at a PSC permanent split capacitor
> motor.. although I haven't seen any rated at 180V. Most 3-wire motors are
> PSC types.
>
> BTW, PSC motors aren't defined or referred to as 2-phase motors.
> They may be specified for some particular rating as single-direction
> motors, but they are reversible, in fact, fast stopping/reversing is one
> of the features of PSC motors.
> The gearheads, and especially the right-angle gearheads with encoders
> attached are very versatile.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>
> "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
> message news:de5%o.16039$TZ4.6414@newsfe20.iad...
>>
>> Don't waste your breath. it's not worth the effort.
>>
>> Knowing that you understand it should be enough..
>>
>> And by the way, I was looking at a 3 wire motor today, 2 phases of 180
>> apart with CT to operate it (3 wire motor). It was attached to a gear box
>> and only ran one direction, but you could use it as a stepper (servo) or
>> full out run. Most likely some custom motor for an application.
>>
>> Jamie
>>
>>
>

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 8:05 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

JW wrote:
>
> On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 14:23:35 -0500 "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in Message id:
> <MaWdnaQtrvvZHaHQnZ2dnUVZ_oKdnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
>
> >
> >Jeffrey Angus wrote:
> >>
> >> On 1/23/2011 9:05 AM, Jamie wrote:
> >> > Jeffrey Angus wrote:
> >> >> It's single phase.
> >> >>
> >> >> Jeff
> >> > Big JOKE!
> >> >
> >> > You fail.
> >>
> >> I bow to your superior logic and wit.
> >
> >
> > Look at his website before you concede.
> >
> >http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5/
>
> Ack! I almost went blind after seeing that pic on the right.

Now you know not to listen to him.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Another PbF indicator?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7662e5d9f71b71bc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 3:06 am
From: "N_Cook"

On a recent "American" board , made in China, so no warning legends of PbF .
Don't know what its called, the sort of conformal coating final process at
the pcb production phase is a staining coat , usually green these days.
White rings showing around the solder pads after soldering may show elevated
soldering temperature has been used or wrong composite material body ,
showing rings of plain white polyester+fibre board . The green staining
having melded into the plastic or evaporated.

From UL 6 digit E number and board type this is designated 260 deg C / 10
second solder dwell ( for conventional soldering) rather than 270 deg / 10
second dwell of proper made for PbF pcb boards.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pet hates ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7925b5c2233e9ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 3:17 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:f21qj69nksr8pclj13qq54ukv07uhrtb8k@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 21 Jan 2011 04:37:26 -0800 (PST), b
> <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >Pet hates: excessive amounts of screws holding covers of TVs etc.
> >together. this seems to have got worse with flat panels.Often you
> >spend as much /more time assembling and re-asembling than the repair!
> >-B
>
> Screws are fine. I can live with having too many screws because half
> of them are usually stripped out and the remainder hold things
> together. What bugs me are snap together clamshell cases, such as LCD
> monitors and TV's, where you have to remove a mess of screws *AND* pry
> the case apart. While snap together plastic is probably easier to
> assemble because it doesn't require much fixturing to position the
> robotic screwdriver, it does suggest that the case was never intended
> to be opened or the unit repaired.
>
> I recently repaired a Yamaha P70 electric piano. I didn't count, but
> I'll guess about 60 large "sheet metal" type screws holding it
> together. I don't use an electric screwdriver, but this is one time
> that I wish I owned one. Even with switching hands, my hands ached
> after I as done. The problem with such "sheet metal" screws is that
> they offer high frictional resistance on every turn, while more
> conventional screw threads, only offer high resistance when tight (or
> smeared with thread lock).
>
> My guess is the large number of screws was to prevent mechanical
> resonances in the plastic case or to keep them from falling out from
> vibrations. Still, metal thread inserts, screw threads, and steel nut
> plates, would have been much easier to handle.
>
> On the silicon grease front, I agree with most of the comments. Thin
> works much better than globs of silicon grease. One should remember
> that the purpose of silicon grease is NOT to bridge gaps. It's to
> fill in the surface roughness, groves, and crevasses. Most of the
> heat transfer is metal to metal contact, not through the silicon
> grease.
>
> In a past life, I used to design marine radios. The problem was that
> the power xsistor packages of the day (1970's) were generally thermal
> disasters. Either there was insufficient contact area to obtain
> sufficiently low thermal resistance, or they were not flat. I solved
> the first by building pyramid like structures of copper washers to act
> as a heat spreader. I solved the latter by polishing the mounting
> base of the power transistors on fine emery cloth. I hated to polish
> away the gold plating, but that's what it took to get the heat out. I
> made numerous tests and measurements trying to determine the optimum
> amount of silicon grease, and eventually concluded that ultra thin is
> best. Instructions were to smear a tiny amount onto the area, and
> then wipe ALL of it off with a plastic scraper. What remained was
> silicon grease in the remaining surface roughness, which was all that
> was necessary.
>
> I recently repaired an IFR-1500 service monitor. The power supply
> section was intermittent. The 0.062 aluminum power supply case, was
> butted up against the large aluminum heat sink that covered the entire
> rear panel. In between was a huge amount of silicon grease. The
> sandwich was held together by two large 10-24 screws, which probably
> explains the silicon grease overdose. Two screws is not going to bend
> the aluminum case so that it lays flat. So they tried to fill in the
> lack of flatness with silicon grease. That doesn't work.
>
> It took me considerable effort and alcohol to clean up the mess, but I
> still managed to get it all over everything on the bench. After the
> repair (large copper wires on torroids were not soldered properly), I
> reassembled it with only a little silicon grease around the two large
> screws, and left the rest to it's own devices. Works fine with no
> obvious overheating (checked with an IR thermometer and thermocouple
> probe). My guess is all that silicon grease did nothing useful.
>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Another goo production failing , on a 1 to 2 yearold Fender Amp on my bench
at the moment. Uses intermediary Al block between immediate o/p h/s plate
and chassis. White goo on both surfaces is still as placed, not splurged
out. Failure to fettle/de-burr the post machining raised rims around the
machined holes so acting as thin washers so heat just going through the 3
bolts not body of Al. Amp failure nothing to do with this poor heatsinking

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 5:49 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> Oh, there is one area that I won't do any more. I'm no longer able to
> the construction work necessary to run CAT5 all over a building. I
> contract that out to younger and more suicidal kids, who are usually
> grateful for the work and money.

Jeff, that's just because you haven't figured out how to charge your customers
to "run" wireless connections. :-)

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 7:59 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" wrote:
>
> Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> > Oh, there is one area that I won't do any more. I'm no longer able to
> > the construction work necessary to run CAT5 all over a building. I
> > contract that out to younger and more suicidal kids, who are usually
> > grateful for the work and money.
>
> Jeff, that's just because you haven't figured out how to charge your customers
> to "run" wireless connections. :-)

Some people don't want wireless for security, and other reasons. it's
ok for a small home network, but not a large business with a lot of
computers.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fender Frontman 212R amp, 2010
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b4d6a83c2aaabd02?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 3:14 am
From: "N_Cook"

Another failing on this Fender. Uses intermediary Al block between immediate
o/p h/s plate and chassis. White goo on both surfaces is still as placed,
not splurged out. Failure to fettle/de-burr the post machining raised rims
around the machined holes so acting as thin washers so heat just going
through the 3 bolts not body of Al.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Our Heavenly Mother 5-3-01
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/115f5947374d6dd2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 5:16 am
From: PeterD

On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 19:28:34 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:

>mier wrote:
>> Our Heavenly Mother says,
>....
>> All Revelations are delivered spontaneously
>> and continuously as witnessed by all those present at the time.
>> Copyright 1996 FMK
>> This is used with the permission of the copyright holder.
>>
>>
>
>What exactly is your problem? You posted in a tech service forum.
>
>Are you unable to contact your Heavenly Mother? Perhaps her number is
>unlisted or there is no dial tone? It is hard to deal with signal
>rejection, most people would call for tech support as you have, but I'm
>not sure that we can help you as you didn't exactly specify what the
>problem was and when it started (perhaps in 1996?).
>
>We need more information!
>
>John :-#)#
>

I suspect his heavenly mother is using caller id to block his calls.
She gets tired of his whacko calls, and resents his spewing forth on
Usenet.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 8:09 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On Sun, 23 Jan 2011 19:28:34 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
> wrote:
>
> >mier wrote:
> >> Our Heavenly Mother says,
> >....
> >> All Revelations are delivered spontaneously
> >> and continuously as witnessed by all those present at the time.
> >> Copyright 1996 FMK
> >> This is used with the permission of the copyright holder.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >What exactly is your problem? You posted in a tech service forum.
> >
> >Are you unable to contact your Heavenly Mother? Perhaps her number is
> >unlisted or there is no dial tone? It is hard to deal with signal
> >rejection, most people would call for tech support as you have, but I'm
> >not sure that we can help you as you didn't exactly specify what the
> >problem was and when it started (perhaps in 1996?).
> >
> >We need more information!
> >
> >John :-#)#
> >
>
> I suspect his heavenly mother is using caller id to block his calls.
> She gets tired of his whacko calls, and resents his spewing forth on
> Usenet.

Spewing forth belongs on some porn newsgroup. Or a programming
newsgroup. ;-)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: sexy girl
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/23affaaea5f95801?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 5:57 am
From: sexy girl

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== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 5:57 am
From: sexy girl

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Here's a video of me at Michael Terrell's house
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6793a6379a1a5037?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Jan 23 2011 10:15 pm
From: Michael Gross

He didn't believe me when I told him how much I hate Justin Bieber.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uYP0nNVODw

Maybe now he'll believe me.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ATTRACTIVE HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3d0bea914d2ac44c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 24 2011 6:35 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: get master card and 50 dollar free with just 3 minutes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/503e2aafc904b51c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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