sci.electronics.repair - 15 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yammy PA ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/62e115d012f56e15?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 10:47 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

Anyone got schematics for a Yammy MS400 powered speaker ?

TIA

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PTFE covered wire - how to strip off the PTFE?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f8ed7daf04a99b36?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 10:48 am
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <ik5khh$9rf$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>For high temp applications. The type I have has 2 parts to the PTFE
>insulation. The outer strips off easily with any old wire stripper, but
>however new , gap limited cutters , will not cut the underlying PTFE.
>Outer is double spiral wound PTFE sheet/ribbon I think, heated to lock
>together to a certain extent. The inner is more fibrous in nature. Cutting
>the remaining inner material , even difficult with a razor. The only
>technique I've found, is remove the outer as normal , then .5mm grinding
>disc in a Dremmel , only just touching, run all around and then pull off,
>rarely cuts a wire strand . Other than some mega-buck NASA/Mil approved
>cutter any other ideas?

I've had reasonably good luck on PFTE wire and cable (including the
spiral-fused-tape-insulated type) using a set of "hot tweezer" wire
strippers. Bought 'em used through a dealer in such things who has a
table at a local hamfest every month.

The temperature of the heated stripping element can be adjusted...
anywhere from a gentle warmth which melts through PVC without making
it smoke, up to a literally red-hot glow which will cut through PFTE
down to the underlying wire.

[Using a fume evacuator, or at least a small fan, is a good idea in this
case, to avoid the risk of inhaling the fumes... a nasty respiratory
syndrome can result. Don't do this at all if you keep pet birds
around... they're acutely sensitive to the fumes from overheated
Teflon and etc.]

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 12:05 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 2/24/2011 12:48 PM, Dave Platt wrote:
> [Using a fume evacuator, or at least a small fan, is a good idea in this
> case, to avoid the risk of inhaling the fumes... a nasty respiratory
> syndrome can result. Don't do this at all if you keep pet birds
> around... they're acutely sensitive to the fumes from overheated
> Teflon and etc.]

And nerve damage...

Both nasty side effects.

Good ventilation is a must.

Jeff

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 12:33 am
From: "N_Cook"

Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-16DC18.05170124022011@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <ik5khh$9rf$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > For high temp applications. The type I have has 2 parts to the PTFE
> > insulation. The outer strips off easily with any old wire stripper, but
> > however new , gap limited cutters , will not cut the underlying PTFE.
> > Outer is double spiral wound PTFE sheet/ribbon I think, heated to lock
> > together to a certain extent. The inner is more fibrous in nature.
Cutting
> > the remaining inner material , even difficult with a razor. The only
> > technique I've found, is remove the outer as normal , then .5mm grinding
> > disc in a Dremmel , only just touching, run all around and then pull
off,
> > rarely cuts a wire strand . Other than some mega-buck NASA/Mil approved
> > cutter any other ideas?
>
> The type of stripper shown here:
>
> <http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/OK%20International/Web%20Photo/ST-500.jp
> g>
>
> is pretty good with teflon. Sold under various brand names, and also in
> different adjustable gauge ranges or in fixed sizes.
>
> For teflon, squeeze fully to cut through insulation, then back off very
> slightly to pull off slug.

Thats the type I use.
I think I'll make my own cutter, a pair of razor blades set with a tapered
gap between cutting edges (gap a bit larger than ext diam down to wire
diam). Push the wire down the gap in 2 orthogonal directions and then rotate
round at the narrow end. Then sleeve should slide off easily as its the
cutting completely around that is the problem. I'd rather avoid melting of
PTFE (the fluoro bit) especially as it cuts so easily.
Hopefully something like a minimal version of these PTFE specific cutters,
I only have one drum of one size of this wire, so no adjuster needed

http://int.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/o6804/ptfe-wire-stripper-091-45mmdia-cu
tting/0608301.aspx
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/001b/0900766b8001b254.pdf

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Unidentified connector type
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1b97e6c49da959fe?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 12:25 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> writes:

> Samuel M. Goldwasser <sam@repairfaq.org> wrote in message
> news:uhbbumlo7.fsf@repairfaq.org...
> > Please see:
> >
> > http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/conn-h.jpg
> > http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/conn-p.jpg
> >
> > These are 0.1" spaced and sort of compatible with the common AMP/Molex
> > headers/housings but not quite identical. Please don't do an extensive
> > search, but if you recognize the manufacturer/type, please reply here.

> > sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

> So what is the difference to Harwin/ Molex etc? other than the bulky looking
> upright section of the pins half. Width of pins different to the usual? Is
> there a retention lug on the unseen mating surface of the p pic that locks
> into the recess pit in the h pic?

Not absolutely sure, but the pins look the same make good contact with the
normal AMP/Molex sockets. There is a retention dimple and that does make it
more difficult to remove.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Pioneer PD-M610 6cd player service manual
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fa0608d06708250e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 12:26 pm
From: sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser)

F Murtz <haggisz@hotmail.com> writes:

> Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
> > "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:
> >
> >> "F Murtz"<haggisz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >> news:4d65abb3$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
> >>> Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
> >>>> F Murtz<haggisz@hotmail.com> writes:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Pioneer PD-M600 changer. Presents disc but does not spin up then the
> >>>>> same thing happens with each disc.
> >>>>> Anyone any clues or where to get service manual, preferably free.
> >>>>
> >>>> Bad flex cable, dropped lens, dirty spindle motor, decayed rubber
> >>>> grommets,
> >>>> etc.
> >>>>
> >>> Motor does not attempt to start spinning,Have not checked for
> >>> voltage at spindle motor yet, just had quick look so far.
> >>> Would feel happier with schematic but the only ones I can find want
> >>> money and I am a bit wary of paying for a pig in a poke.
> >>
> >> All that Sam said seconded. Have you checked that the lens is still in
> >> place ? Very common for it to come out and be rolling round in the
> >> bottom of the player somewhere ...
> >
> > And despite the incredible precision involved in the optical pickup,
> > gently pushing the lens back in place and securing it with a couple
> > drops of 5 minute Epoxy often works! DON'T use Superglue! :( :)
>
> It seems the lense is missing,Aparently the owner (friend of a friend)
> moved house and then it stopped working,probably shook it loose.I
> think it has fallen through the bottom of the case.
> Would you still be able to get spares?

You sure? It's not that small.

You can't buy just the lens, but there are parts units available
probably from someone here or on eBay.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 6:06 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" <sam@repairfaq.org> wrote in message
news:uzkplrxf0.fsf@repairfaq.org...
> F Murtz <haggisz@hotmail.com> writes:
>
>> Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
>> > "Arfa Daily"<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> writes:
>> >
>> >> "F Murtz"<haggisz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> >> news:4d65abb3$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
>> >>> Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:
>> >>>> F Murtz<haggisz@hotmail.com> writes:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> Pioneer PD-M600 changer. Presents disc but does not spin up then
>> >>>>> the
>> >>>>> same thing happens with each disc.
>> >>>>> Anyone any clues or where to get service manual, preferably free.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Bad flex cable, dropped lens, dirty spindle motor, decayed rubber
>> >>>> grommets,
>> >>>> etc.
>> >>>>
>> >>> Motor does not attempt to start spinning,Have not checked for
>> >>> voltage at spindle motor yet, just had quick look so far.
>> >>> Would feel happier with schematic but the only ones I can find want
>> >>> money and I am a bit wary of paying for a pig in a poke.
>> >>
>> >> All that Sam said seconded. Have you checked that the lens is still in
>> >> place ? Very common for it to come out and be rolling round in the
>> >> bottom of the player somewhere ...
>> >
>> > And despite the incredible precision involved in the optical pickup,
>> > gently pushing the lens back in place and securing it with a couple
>> > drops of 5 minute Epoxy often works! DON'T use Superglue! :( :)
>>
>> It seems the lense is missing,Aparently the owner (friend of a friend)
>> moved house and then it stopped working,probably shook it loose.I
>> think it has fallen through the bottom of the case.
>> Would you still be able to get spares?
>
> You sure? It's not that small.
>
> You can't buy just the lens, but there are parts units available
> probably from someone here or on eBay.
>
> --
> sam

Yeah, they do, Sam. The one I did a couple of weeks back, had disappeared
completely

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electrolytics blow after 1 hr
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/22739e68af51f6a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 1:53 pm
From: Baron

Phil Allison Inscribed thus:

>
> "Jeff Liebermann"
>
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
>>
>> The two large black caps in the foreground are the surviving 105C
>> caps, while the blue caps in the background, are the bulging 85C
>> caps.
>
>
> ** Errr - I hate to tell you this pal ........
>
> but the pic shows all 4 caps installed with reverse polarity.
>
> A smaller cap ( C310) is clearly installed correctly and so are all
> the others I can see.
>
> The markings on the PCB are a bit unusual with the white triangle
> indicating positive.
>
>
>
> .... Phil

Good catch Phil :-)

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 1:55 pm
From: Baron

Jeff Liebermann Inscribed thus:

> On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 12:44:58 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>>"Jeff Liebermann"
>>
>>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
>>>
>>> The two large black caps in the foreground are the surviving 105C
>>> caps, while the blue caps in the background, are the bulging 85C
>>> caps.
>
>>** Errr - I hate to tell you this pal ........
>>
>>but the pic shows all 4 caps installed with reverse polarity.
>>
>>A smaller cap ( C310) is clearly installed correctly and so are all
>>the others I can see.
>>
>>The markings on the PCB are a bit unusual with the white triangle
>>indicating positive.
>>
>>.... Phil
>
> AAAAAAARGH! I can't believe I did that. I usually assume that the
> silk screened marker was matches the negative stripe on the
> electrolytics. Very embarrassing.
>
> Thanks for catching my mistake (as I crawl back into my hole and
> sulk).
>

I wouldn't beat yourself up about it... I'll bet we have all made some
mistakes in our time. :-)

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 2:22 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 21:55:33 +0000, Baron wrote:

> Jeff Liebermann Inscribed thus:
>
>> On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 12:44:58 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>"Jeff Liebermann"
>>>
>>>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
>>>>
>>>> The two large black caps in the foreground are the surviving 105C
>>>> caps, while the blue caps in the background, are the bulging 85C
>>>> caps.
>>
>>>** Errr - I hate to tell you this pal ........
>>>
>>>but the pic shows all 4 caps installed with reverse polarity.
>>>
>>>A smaller cap ( C310) is clearly installed correctly and so are all the
>>>others I can see.
>>>
>>>The markings on the PCB are a bit unusual with the white triangle
>>>indicating positive.
>>>
>>>.... Phil
>>
>> AAAAAAARGH! I can't believe I did that. I usually assume that the silk
>> screened marker was matches the negative stripe on the electrolytics.
>> Very embarrassing.
>>
>> Thanks for catching my mistake (as I crawl back into my hole and sulk).
>>
>>
> I wouldn't beat yourself up about it... I'll bet we have all made some
> mistakes in our time. :-)

I once was trying to remove a photographer's external slave flash
powerpack from it's case using two hemostats. I happened to clamp on the
plus and minus output. I think it was 900 volts dc and had several large
electrolytics about 3/4 the size of a soda can. Residual voltage caused
my arms to fly outward and I stabbed a friend in the shoulder with one
pair or the hemostats.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 5:56 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:rfkbm6hkov35ue2vbdnn8c1im1bju99vk4@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 24 Feb 2011 12:44:58 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>>"Jeff Liebermann"
>>
>>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
>>>
>>> The two large black caps in the foreground are the surviving 105C
>>> caps, while the blue caps in the background, are the bulging 85C caps.
>
>>** Errr - I hate to tell you this pal ........
>>
>>but the pic shows all 4 caps installed with reverse polarity.
>>
>>A smaller cap ( C310) is clearly installed correctly and so are all the
>>others I can see.
>>
>>The markings on the PCB are a bit unusual with the white triangle
>>indicating
>>positive.
>>
>>.... Phil
>
> AAAAAAARGH! I can't believe I did that. I usually assume that the
> silk screened marker was matches the negative stripe on the
> electrolytics. Very embarrassing.
>
> Thanks for catching my mistake (as I crawl back into my hole and
> sulk).
>
>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann

Ah, but we've all been there Jeff, we've all been there ... :-)

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is the story with the Panasonic SA-PT760?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/04c2d2a64bf410b9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 5:07 pm
From: myfathersson

Is there a known problem with this unit? I have one and it is
completely dead, - as if there is a fuse dead on the power supply.

I checked with Panasonic and they wouldn't speak about it (or possibly
some Indian support centre couldn't speak about it?) They insisted on
my calling some local dealer who said the unit, which may well still
be under warranty, wasn't likely to have a fuse problem. So I did a
bit of research and amazingly came across someone on ebay offering to
repair this specific unit!! Not that this is unknown but why this
specific unit? I checked and usually these sorts of offers are
limited to things like Krells?? (or units which are presumably known
to go wrong, - and in a certain known area, - just after the
warranty has expired)

So I peeked inside, being careful not to disturb the screws. Guess
what? There IS a fuse inside it and it isn't blown.

Is this something to do with it boasting 125 watts (on numerous
channels), yet being light as a feather, as if there is hardly a power
transformer in it? Or more to do with the underside looking a bit
like a cheap throw away Sony VHS unit?

Does anyone know what is the problem with this unit please? There isnt
a repair station anywhere near me.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 5:53 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"myfathersson" <licensedtoquill@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:16cb7b6c-932a-4cb2-b88b-c5e3271d317c@w7g2000pre.googlegroups.com...
> Is there a known problem with this unit? I have one and it is
> completely dead, - as if there is a fuse dead on the power supply.
>
> I checked with Panasonic and they wouldn't speak about it (or possibly
> some Indian support centre couldn't speak about it?) They insisted on
> my calling some local dealer who said the unit, which may well still
> be under warranty, wasn't likely to have a fuse problem. So I did a
> bit of research and amazingly came across someone on ebay offering to
> repair this specific unit!! Not that this is unknown but why this
> specific unit? I checked and usually these sorts of offers are
> limited to things like Krells?? (or units which are presumably known
> to go wrong, - and in a certain known area, - just after the
> warranty has expired)
>
> So I peeked inside, being careful not to disturb the screws. Guess
> what? There IS a fuse inside it and it isn't blown.
>
> Is this something to do with it boasting 125 watts (on numerous
> channels), yet being light as a feather, as if there is hardly a power
> transformer in it? Or more to do with the underside looking a bit
> like a cheap throw away Sony VHS unit?
>
> Does anyone know what is the problem with this unit please? There isnt
> a repair station anywhere near me.
>

There probably isn't a power transformer in it. If it weighs next to
nothing, then it will be a switchmode power supply, as most of Pan's recent
stuff is. You would stand no chance whatsoever of fixing this unless you are
experienced with switchers. The chances are that the problem is actually
small, if the fuse is intact, but without specialised test equipment like an
ESR meter and a scope, and a lot of experience and understanding of the very
real dangers of switchers, then you are best to leave it to someone used to
working on them.

If there is not a Pan dealer, or anyone else with the relevant experience in
your area, then if the eBay guy has good feedback, perhaps you should
consider sending it back to him ?

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap Wholesale Adidas Shoes (paypal payment) (free shipping)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c095b0cb0038cc7f?hl=en
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Date: Thurs, Feb 24 2011 10:09 pm
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a92d816783e8ed14?hl=en
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