sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PTFE covered wire - how to strip off the PTFE?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f8ed7daf04a99b36?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 12:33 am
From: "N_Cook"

Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-16DC18.05170124022011@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <ik5khh$9rf$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > For high temp applications. The type I have has 2 parts to the PTFE
> > insulation. The outer strips off easily with any old wire stripper, but
> > however new , gap limited cutters , will not cut the underlying PTFE.
> > Outer is double spiral wound PTFE sheet/ribbon I think, heated to lock
> > together to a certain extent. The inner is more fibrous in nature.
Cutting
> > the remaining inner material , even difficult with a razor. The only
> > technique I've found, is remove the outer as normal , then .5mm grinding
> > disc in a Dremmel , only just touching, run all around and then pull
off,
> > rarely cuts a wire strand . Other than some mega-buck NASA/Mil approved
> > cutter any other ideas?
>
> The type of stripper shown here:
>
> <http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/OK%20International/Web%20Photo/ST-500.jp
> g>
>
> is pretty good with teflon. Sold under various brand names, and also in
> different adjustable gauge ranges or in fixed sizes.
>
> For teflon, squeeze fully to cut through insulation, then back off very
> slightly to pull off slug.

Thats the type I use.
I think I'll make my own cutter, a pair of razor blades set with a tapered
gap between cutting edges (gap a bit larger than ext diam down to wire
diam). Push the wire down the gap in 2 orthogonal directions and then rotate
round at the narrow end. Then sleeve should slide off easily as its the
cutting completely around that is the problem. I'd rather avoid melting of
PTFE (the fluoro bit) especially as it cuts so easily.
Hopefully something like a minimal version of these PTFE specific cutters,
I only have one drum of one size of this wire, so no adjuster needed

http://int.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/o6804/ptfe-wire-stripper-091-45mmdia-cu
tting/0608301.aspx
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/001b/0900766b8001b254.pdf

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 3:39 am
From: "N_Cook"

Works a treat, cutting this pesky thin inner layer of PTFE and not the wire
filaments.

Two 2inch lengths of 12mm diameter hotmelt sticks. Temp controlled solder
iron , melt a slot axially in one. With a pair of razor blades gripped in an
engineer's cramp with gap one end , wider than the outer PTFE, and the other
with blade edges touching at a point. Push the wide gap end into the
hotmelt. Cool and repeat with the other end. Mark along the razor edge where
the stripped wire falls to.
Push some of the sleeved wire down to just beyond this point and drop
hotmelt , filling the space down to the closed gap end.
One sliding cut and 180 degree rotation is all that is needed , slide away,
remove from the slot and pull off the cut sleeving.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 4:55 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <ik7pfe$ebb$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

> Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:prestwhich-16DC18.05170124022011@news.eternal-september.org...
> > In article <ik5khh$9rf$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> > "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > > For high temp applications. The type I have has 2 parts to the PTFE
> > > insulation. The outer strips off easily with any old wire stripper, but
> > > however new , gap limited cutters , will not cut the underlying PTFE.
> > > Outer is double spiral wound PTFE sheet/ribbon I think, heated to lock
> > > together to a certain extent. The inner is more fibrous in nature.
> Cutting
> > > the remaining inner material , even difficult with a razor. The only
> > > technique I've found, is remove the outer as normal , then .5mm grinding
> > > disc in a Dremmel , only just touching, run all around and then pull
> off,
> > > rarely cuts a wire strand . Other than some mega-buck NASA/Mil approved
> > > cutter any other ideas?
> >
> > The type of stripper shown here:
> >
> > <http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/OK%20International/Web%20Photo/ST-500.jp
> > g>
> >
> > is pretty good with teflon. Sold under various brand names, and also in
> > different adjustable gauge ranges or in fixed sizes.
> >
> > For teflon, squeeze fully to cut through insulation, then back off very
> > slightly to pull off slug.
>
> Thats the type I use.
> I think I'll make my own cutter, a pair of razor blades set with a tapered
> gap between cutting edges (gap a bit larger than ext diam down to wire
> diam). Push the wire down the gap in 2 orthogonal directions and then rotate
> round at the narrow end. Then sleeve should slide off easily as its the
> cutting completely around that is the problem. I'd rather avoid melting of
> PTFE (the fluoro bit) especially as it cuts so easily.
> Hopefully something like a minimal version of these PTFE specific cutters,
> I only have one drum of one size of this wire, so no adjuster needed
>
> http://int.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/o6804/ptfe-wire-stripper-091-45mmdia-cu
> tting/0608301.aspx
> http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/001b/0900766b8001b254.pdf

Glad your home-made gadget worked, but the cutters I referenced are the
ones we use every day for stripping teflon. I'm surprised they wouldn't
do it for you. It does take a bit of technique as noted, setting depth
to cut fully through, then backing off pressure to remove slug. The 90
degree rotate and 2nd cut helps, but for production work is too slow.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 5:59 am
From: "N_Cook"

Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-F766A2.04555525022011@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <ik7pfe$ebb$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> > news:prestwhich-16DC18.05170124022011@news.eternal-september.org...
> > > In article <ik5khh$9rf$1@news.eternal-september.org>,
> > > "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> > >
> > > > For high temp applications. The type I have has 2 parts to the PTFE
> > > > insulation. The outer strips off easily with any old wire stripper,
but
> > > > however new , gap limited cutters , will not cut the underlying
PTFE.
> > > > Outer is double spiral wound PTFE sheet/ribbon I think, heated to
lock
> > > > together to a certain extent. The inner is more fibrous in nature.
> > Cutting
> > > > the remaining inner material , even difficult with a razor. The only
> > > > technique I've found, is remove the outer as normal , then .5mm
grinding
> > > > disc in a Dremmel , only just touching, run all around and then pull
> > off,
> > > > rarely cuts a wire strand . Other than some mega-buck NASA/Mil
approved
> > > > cutter any other ideas?
> > >
> > > The type of stripper shown here:
> > >
> > >
<http://rocky.digikey.com/weblib/OK%20International/Web%20Photo/ST-500.jp
> > > g>
> > >
> > > is pretty good with teflon. Sold under various brand names, and also
in
> > > different adjustable gauge ranges or in fixed sizes.
> > >
> > > For teflon, squeeze fully to cut through insulation, then back off
very
> > > slightly to pull off slug.
> >
> > Thats the type I use.
> > I think I'll make my own cutter, a pair of razor blades set with a
tapered
> > gap between cutting edges (gap a bit larger than ext diam down to wire
> > diam). Push the wire down the gap in 2 orthogonal directions and then
rotate
> > round at the narrow end. Then sleeve should slide off easily as its the
> > cutting completely around that is the problem. I'd rather avoid melting
of
> > PTFE (the fluoro bit) especially as it cuts so easily.
> > Hopefully something like a minimal version of these PTFE specific
cutters,
> > I only have one drum of one size of this wire, so no adjuster needed
> >
> >
http://int.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/o6804/ptfe-wire-stripper-091-45mmdia-cu
> > tting/0608301.aspx
> >
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/001b/0900766b8001b254.pdf
>
> Glad your home-made gadget worked, but the cutters I referenced are the
> ones we use every day for stripping teflon. I'm surprised they wouldn't
> do it for you. It does take a bit of technique as noted, setting depth
> to cut fully through, then backing off pressure to remove slug. The 90
> degree rotate and 2nd cut helps, but for production work is too slow.

This wire is very fine filament multistrand. perhaps 30 wire strands. If it
was solid conductor it would be easier to strip. But the main problem is the
multiple thin sleeve layers , perhaps 3, under the thick outer sleeving.
PTFE seems to be strong in one sense and transverse very weak. If the fibrey
part was laid up transversely it would easily part at the cutting point, but
the layup is strong axially.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yammy PA ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/62e115d012f56e15?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 1:37 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:2Jx9p.23650$Xm4.17829@newsfe10.ams2...
> Anyone got schematics for a Yammy MS400 powered speaker ?
>
> TIA
>
> Arfa

What does the R mean here? not rack-mount
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/53690/Yamaha_MSR400.html

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 8:40 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ik7t80$o0s$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:2Jx9p.23650$Xm4.17829@newsfe10.ams2...
>> Anyone got schematics for a Yammy MS400 powered speaker ?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Arfa
>
> What does the R mean here? not rack-mount
> http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/53690/Yamaha_MSR400.html
>
>

Hmmm. Interesting. How did you find that on eserviceinfo ? I searched every
way I could think of, and never came up with that result. It does appear at
first glance, to be the correct manual for the unit, so thanks for that.
Just to make sure that I wasn't going mad or blind - well, mad already, and
getting more bat-like by the year :-) - I just went and checked again on
the actual unit, and it definitely says "Model MS400". No 'R' in there.

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 9:35 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:vYQ9p.81981$qA1.33262@newsfe08.ams2...
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ik7t80$o0s$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> > Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> > news:2Jx9p.23650$Xm4.17829@newsfe10.ams2...
> >> Anyone got schematics for a Yammy MS400 powered speaker ?
> >>
> >> TIA
> >>
> >> Arfa
> >
> > What does the R mean here? not rack-mount
> > http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/53690/Yamaha_MSR400.html
> >
> >
>
> Hmmm. Interesting. How did you find that on eserviceinfo ? I searched
every
> way I could think of, and never came up with that result. It does appear
at
> first glance, to be the correct manual for the unit, so thanks for that.
> Just to make sure that I wasn't going mad or blind - well, mad already,
and
> getting more bat-like by the year :-) - I just went and checked again
on
> the actual unit, and it definitely says "Model MS400". No 'R' in there.
>
> Arfa
>

Their search is organised as OR to maximise ad revenue
use instead Google implied-AND instead

term1 AND term2 site:eserviceinfo.com
in searchbox
so you can use YAMAHA AND 400
YAMAHA AND MS etc, not practical with OR

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electrolytics blow after 1 hr
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/22739e68af51f6a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 2:28 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <6v4dm65joh74tuhl8h649j3cb8hg7l9lb6@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com> writes

>Nicely done. I vaguely recall cutting across a hot zip cord while
>plugged in, and destroying a pair of borrowed pliers.

I did exactly that a few weeks ago in a moment of inattention.
Fortunately, because we have a decent electrical wiring code here in the
UK, all that happened was that the 3A fuse in the plug blew.

Over that side of the pond, the only protection you have is a 16A or 32A
breaker in the cabinet, which explains the destroyed pliers.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 4:41 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <Q8asoEBHR4ZNFwnQ@jasper.org.uk>,
Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote:

> Over that side of the pond, the only protection you have is a 16A or 32A
> breaker in the cabinet

I wonder how many sides the pond has. The U.S. has no 16 or 32 amp
breakers.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 5:45 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <prestwhich-99F154.04413325022011@news.eternal-
september.org>, Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> writes

>I wonder how many sides the pond has. The U.S. has no 16 or 32 amp
>breakers.

Whatever.

The point still applies. You only have the cabinet breaker to protect
the circuit, here we have individual fuses per plug in addition to
whatever fuse(s) the connected equipment has.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 11:43 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Fri, 25 Feb 2011 10:28:23 +0000, Mike Tomlinson
<mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote:

>In article <6v4dm65joh74tuhl8h649j3cb8hg7l9lb6@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
><jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
>
>>Nicely done. I vaguely recall cutting across a hot zip cord while
>>plugged in, and destroying a pair of borrowed pliers.
>
>I did exactly that a few weeks ago in a moment of inattention.
>Fortunately, because we have a decent electrical wiring code here in the
>UK, all that happened was that the 3A fuse in the plug blew.
>
>Over that side of the pond, the only protection you have is a 16A or 32A
>breaker in the cabinet, which explains the destroyed pliers.

In the USA, we only make big mistakes, so oversized breakers are
totally functional. We also use it as a Darwinian filter, as sloppy
techs usually don't survive very long. After 150 years of natural
selection, we have bred a race of very careful technicians.

Circuit breakers here are in increments of 5A up to about 25A for
domestic service. None of my breakers are labeled, so if I need to
know which breaker controls which circuit, I just plug a short into
the wall socket, and check which breaker has tripped. Very handy.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 11:45 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Mike Tomlinson wrote:
>
> In article <6v4dm65joh74tuhl8h649j3cb8hg7l9lb6@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
> <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
>
> >Nicely done. I vaguely recall cutting across a hot zip cord while
> >plugged in, and destroying a pair of borrowed pliers.
>
> I did exactly that a few weeks ago in a moment of inattention.
> Fortunately, because we have a decent electrical wiring code here in the
> UK, all that happened was that the 3A fuse in the plug blew.
>
> Over that side of the pond, the only protection you have is a 16A or 32A
> breaker in the cabinet, which explains the destroyed pliers.

All that proves is that you live in a 'nanny state'.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Any Windoze experts on here ? Bit OT ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cffb93376f721ce8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 2:33 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <pan.2011.02.20.02.47.13@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> writes

>Open the Task Manager and see what process(s) are eating up your ram and
>CPU. Report back.

I'd put good money on it being Firefox. Seems to gobble up memory and
not release it on exit.

--
Mike Tomlinson

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 2:51 am
From: Mike Tomlinson

In article <0393m6tc7r3o7uae8okvqkef8u4ll3mq30@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com> writes

> C:\> systeminfo | find "System Up Time"
> System Up Time: 13 Days, 4 Hours, 58 Minutes, 27 Seconds

*coff*

http://jasper.org.uk/uptime.jpg

>No problems, but if you want reliability, I suggest Ubuntu or one of
>the other Linux distributions.

Absolutely.

--
Mike Tomlinson

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is the story with the Panasonic SA-PT760?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/04c2d2a64bf410b9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 6:06 am
From: PeterD

On 2/24/2011 8:07 PM, myfathersson wrote:
>...
>
> So I peeked inside, being careful not to disturb the screws. Guess
> what? There IS a fuse inside it and it isn't blown.
>

And HOW do you know it is not blown? By looking at it? I don't think so...

--
I'm never going to grow up.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 8:31 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:ik8d08$q7f$2@pyrite.mv.net...
> On 2/24/2011 8:07 PM, myfathersson wrote:
>>...
>>
>> So I peeked inside, being careful not to disturb the screws. Guess
>> what? There IS a fuse inside it and it isn't blown.
>>
>
> And HOW do you know it is not blown? By looking at it? I don't think so...
>
> --
> I'm never going to grow up.

Unless it is a ceramic cased HRC type where you can't see the actual fuse
element - and admittedly this is sometimes the case with front-end fuses in
switchers - then if the fuse *looks* intact, it probably *is* intact. Fuses
in switchers tend not to fail 'softly' from metal fatigue or gentle overload
as they do in linear supplies. Most cases, if a fuse in the front end of a
switcher has failed, it will have done so spectacularly and will be at least
blackened, and sometimes even shattered. Hence the reason that ceramic cased
fuses in this position, are favoured by some manufacturers ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SEXY ACTRESS XXXX VIDEOS AND REAL XXX PICTURES HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0b27967cddd42fb0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 6:11 am
From: devi vithya

http://www.love4indianpeople.blogspot.com/

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 6:41 am
From: GS

On Feb 25, 9:11 am, devi vithya <devivithyam...@gmail.com> wrote:
> http://www.love4indianpeople.blogspot.com/
>
> http://www.love4indianpeople.blogspot.com/
>
> http://www.love4indianpeople.blogspot.com/
>
> http://www.love4indianpeople.blogspot.com/
>
> http://www.love4indianpeople.blogspot.com/

eat shit

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Slightly odd output stage configuration. Thoughts ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2588a3ac4e8b297d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 9:00 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

A muso customer has asked me to carry out some tonal mods to his Peavey
Classic 30. All pretty straightforward cap changes and so on. However, he
also asked me to look into fitting a pentode / triode switch whilst I was at
it. At first glance, this didn't look like a problem. The output stage is a
fairly classic AB class using 4 x EL84 tubes as two paralleled pairs. Anodes
of each pair commoned. Cathodes all commoned and decked. Grids of each pair
commoned via individual 47k stoppers. But then, things get a little odd
around the screen grids. One tube of each pair, has its screen grid fed by a
100 ohm 5 watt resistor off the "screen" supply rail, whilst the other of
each pair, has its screen grid fed *direct* from the "screen" supply rail.

I don't think I've seen this done before. I've seen one screen resistor
feeding both tubes of a pair, or one resistor per screen, but not just one
tube having a screen feed resistor. Apart from anything else, I wouldn't
normally have considered it very good design practice to have no current
limiting at all in place. Also, it will mean that the screen voltage will be
higher on one tube of the pair, than the other. I doubt that it would have a
significant effect on the operation of the stage, but just interested as to
whether anyone else has come across this configuration, and knows the design
reasoning behind it. Anyone got any opinions about just strapping the
screens to the anodes on each pair via a switch, to implement a triode mode
?

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 10:42 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 25 Feb 2011 17:00:41 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> A muso customer has asked me to carry out some tonal mods to his Peavey
> Classic 30. All pretty straightforward cap changes and so on. However,
> he also asked me to look into fitting a pentode / triode switch whilst I
> was at it. At first glance, this didn't look like a problem. The output
> stage is a fairly classic AB class using 4 x EL84 tubes as two
> paralleled pairs. Anodes of each pair commoned. Cathodes all commoned
> and decked. Grids of each pair commoned via individual 47k stoppers. But
> then, things get a little odd around the screen grids. One tube of each
> pair, has its screen grid fed by a 100 ohm 5 watt resistor off the
> "screen" supply rail, whilst the other of each pair, has its screen grid
> fed *direct* from the "screen" supply rail.
>
> I don't think I've seen this done before. I've seen one screen resistor
> feeding both tubes of a pair, or one resistor per screen, but not just
> one tube having a screen feed resistor. Apart from anything else, I
> wouldn't normally have considered it very good design practice to have
> no current limiting at all in place. Also, it will mean that the screen
> voltage will be higher on one tube of the pair, than the other. I doubt
> that it would have a significant effect on the operation of the stage,
> but just interested as to whether anyone else has come across this
> configuration, and knows the design reasoning behind it. Anyone got any
> opinions about just strapping the screens to the anodes on each pair via
> a switch, to implement a triode mode ?
>
> Arfa

Several amp and tone stack mods. Variable cathode bias, OD mod on CH2, OT
replacement, speaker replacement.

blueguitar.org/new/articles/blue_gtr/amps/peavey/c30_origmod.pdf

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: MIDNIGHT MASALA - SEXY GIRLS VIDEOS AND ADULT MOVIES HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bd2d57bfe15a1f9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 9:16 am
From: cinema

http://www.cinemaulagam.org

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Looking For Usable Multimeter - Cheap
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e1a0542b17d8b08d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 9:49 am
From: "Dave Plowman (News)"

In article <20110223-162100.250.0@news.astraweb.com>,
Peabody <waybackNO746SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > There's a bi-monthly swap meet near me for computer
> > stuff, etc. that has old voltmeters (analog too!). They
> > are mostly returns that somebody blew the fuse in and
> > returned. Watching a needle move *can* give useful
> > information that a digital readout doesn't easily
> > communicate.

> I agree. I use mine all the time, but the contacts inside
> are wearing out. Where would you find an inexpensive new
> analog meter? Do they even make them anymore?

A half decent DVM will have a a bargraph to mimic a needle movement.

--
*The statement below is true.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 11:22 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Where would you find an inexpensive new analog
> meter? Do they even make them anymore?

Yes. Try MCM or any other large parts distributor.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 11:49 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
>
> In article <20110223-162100.250.0@news.astraweb.com>,
> Peabody <waybackNO746SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > There's a bi-monthly swap meet near me for computer
> > > stuff, etc. that has old voltmeters (analog too!). They
> > > are mostly returns that somebody blew the fuse in and
> > > returned. Watching a needle move *can* give useful
> > > information that a digital readout doesn't easily
> > > communicate.
>
> > I agree. I use mine all the time, but the contacts inside
> > are wearing out. Where would you find an inexpensive new
> > analog meter? Do they even make them anymore?
>
> A half decent DVM will have a a bargraph to mimic a needle movement.

A decent DVM won't have a bargraph to annoy you.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Feb 25 2011 12:21 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> A decent DVM won't have a bargraph to annoy you.

That must make my Fluke 87 indecent.

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

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