sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Adding RGB input to Sony Trinitron - 7 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/068db87850076058?hl=en
* Arfa Daily = MORONIC TROLL - 11 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2588a3ac4e8b297d?hl=en
* EXTORADINARY HOT PHOTOS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9b889eb0386f05ca?hl=en
* Followup Tube Amp Valve Peavey Mace VT Guitar Amplifier - 3 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6e24e1ac0057bca8?hl=en
* First Lady preaches real good - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9265c545d62eced4?hl=en
* Bobbi's Chihuahuas - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5d811baa54922b26?hl=en
* Washing machine motor won't start, bad triac ? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96d2b3fb706b3e62?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Adding RGB input to Sony Trinitron
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/068db87850076058?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 26 2011 10:44 pm
From: boardjunkie1

On Feb 27, 1:10 am, stratu...@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Feb 26, 9:14 am, boardjunkie1 <boardjunk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > I picked up a flat face Trinitron yesterday for peanuts. I plan to use
> > this as an arcade game monitor (in a MAME setup) and need RGB and
> > seperate sync inputs.
>
> > From the schem, I see the "jungle" chip has RGB outputs, so I assume I
> > can insert the color gun signals here. What signal level is it wanting
> > to see here? .7v? Also, I need to keep the OSD for setup and
> > adjustments, so will this be the best option?
>
> > The schem is here:http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/36631/sony_KV-21FV10%20%20part...
>
> > I can see a good place to tap in H sync (after the seperator), but I
> > don't see any reference to V sync. I see the output IC, but its a PITA
> > to trace it back.
>
> > Suggestions?
>
> First and foremost. Is the video signal you want to insert the same H
> and V rate as the TV? TVs are not like computer monitors having
> multiple line and frame rates. If the rates don't match it will not
> work. Period. If they are the same rate, you'll have to get signal
> levels and DC offsets to match. This may require DC restoration
> amplifiers. Do you know how to build those? This isn't a beginners
> project and it may be cheaper time and money wise to get the right
> monitor for the job.
>
> G²- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Holy christ man......I'm not a complete idiot. I just don't come from
a consumer electronics repair background, I was involved in commercial
amusement repair for 20 years. Long and short, I need a Trinitron TV
to act as an RGB monitor. R/G/B/ and H/V sync inputs is what I need. I
have commercial RGB monitors, I just want better image quality.

And yes, I built an RGB video amp to match .7v signals to a TTL video
input. I NEED STD RES, 15khz RGB monitor via this TV due to the
enhanced performance the Trinitron format offers.......

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 1:02 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

If you look for a similar commercial version of that Sony chassis, you might
find/see what Sony did for RGB inputs.
Many Sony chassis have commercial versions, for use in studio environments..
so you may find it easier to obtain the Sony module add-on.

As for the OSD requirement, by retaining a composite video output, setup
adjustments could be seen on a small LCD video display, connected just for
adjustments.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"boardjunkie1" <boardjunkie1@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:fc93fa1f-a3f3-4b2a-8571-1d58942a9409@x4g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
>I picked up a flat face Trinitron yesterday for peanuts. I plan to use
> this as an arcade game monitor (in a MAME setup) and need RGB and
> seperate sync inputs.
>
> From the schem, I see the "jungle" chip has RGB outputs, so I assume I
> can insert the color gun signals here. What signal level is it wanting
> to see here? .7v? Also, I need to keep the OSD for setup and
> adjustments, so will this be the best option?
>
> The schem is here:
> http://www.eserviceinfo.com/downloadsm/36631/sony_KV-21FV10%20%20parte1.html
>
> I can see a good place to tap in H sync (after the seperator), but I
> don't see any reference to V sync. I see the output IC, but its a PITA
> to trace it back.
>
> Suggestions?

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 2:55 am
From: Adrian C

On 26/02/2011 20:27, boardjunkie1 wrote:
> On Feb 26, 3:05 pm, Adrian C<em...@here.invalid> wrote:

>>> I can see a good place to tap in H sync (after the seperator), but I
>>> don't see any reference to V sync. I see the output IC, but its a PITA
>>> to trace it back.

There is a training manual for the BA-4 chassis here. I know yours is
BA-4D but just skip over for that for now.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/3507921/Sony-TV-Training-Manual-Chassi-BA4

On page 70 at the bottom V & H pulses are shown as inputs to IC001
MICRO, which on your BA-4D set for V looks like Pin 2 of that chip
(I-VPN). It is fed from Pin 5 (VTIM - vertical timing?) of IC301 chroma
jumgle chip - but needn't be I wonder?

> Also, there is another set of RGB inputs on the jungle chip that are
> tied to the supply line via caps. Maybe this is where the Euro
> versions inject RGB via the scart input?

The jungle chip is a CXA2061S, it's a 'Y/C/RGB/D for NTSC Color TVs.

CXA2061S Datasheet :)
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/sony/a6802306.pdf

And there is a further manual here for your BA-4D chassis
http://www.scribd.com/doc/8264534/sony-BA4D-

HTH!

--
Adrian C

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 3:16 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Is the video signal you want to insert the same H
> and V rate as the TV? TVs are not like computer
> monitors having multiple line and frame rates. If the
> rates don't match it will not work. Period.

Not necessarily. It depends on how different the rates are. In general, if
the incoming frequency is higher, you'll probably get sync. You might run
into size or linearity problems, however.

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 8:54 am
From: boardjunkie1

On Feb 27, 5:55 am, Adrian C <em...@here.invalid> wrote:
> On 26/02/2011 20:27, boardjunkie1 wrote:
>
> > On Feb 26, 3:05 pm, Adrian C<em...@here.invalid>  wrote:
> >>> I can see a good place to tap in H sync (after the seperator), but I
> >>> don't see any reference to V sync. I see the output IC, but its a PITA
> >>> to trace it back.
>
> There is a training manual for the BA-4 chassis here. I know yours is
> BA-4D but just skip over for that for now.
>
> http://www.scribd.com/doc/3507921/Sony-TV-Training-Manual-Chassi-BA4
>
> On page 70 at the bottom V & H pulses are shown as inputs to IC001
> MICRO, which on your BA-4D set for V looks like Pin 2 of that chip
> (I-VPN). It is fed from Pin 5 (VTIM - vertical timing?) of IC301 chroma
> jumgle chip - but needn't be I wonder?
>
> > Also, there is another set of RGB inputs on the jungle chip that are
> > tied to the supply line via caps. Maybe this is where the Euro
> > versions inject RGB via the scart input?
>
> The jungle chip is a CXA2061S, it's a 'Y/C/RGB/D for NTSC Color TVs.
>
> CXA2061S Datasheet :)http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/sony/a6802306.pdf
>
> And there is a further manual here for your BA-4D chassishttp://www.scribd.com/doc/8264534/sony-BA4D-
>
> HTH!
>
> --
> Adrian C

Excellent info! Thanks....

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 11:11 am
From: boardjunkie1

On Feb 27, 11:54 am, boardjunkie1 <boardjunk...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Feb 27, 5:55 am, Adrian C <em...@here.invalid> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 26/02/2011 20:27, boardjunkie1 wrote:
>
> > > On Feb 26, 3:05 pm, Adrian C<em...@here.invalid>  wrote:
> > >>> I can see a good place to tap in H sync (after the seperator), but I
> > >>> don't see any reference to V sync. I see the output IC, but its a PITA
> > >>> to trace it back.
>
> > There is a training manual for the BA-4 chassis here. I know yours is
> > BA-4D but just skip over for that for now.
>
> >http://www.scribd.com/doc/3507921/Sony-TV-Training-Manual-Chassi-BA4
>
> > On page 70 at the bottom V & H pulses are shown as inputs to IC001
> > MICRO, which on your BA-4D set for V looks like Pin 2 of that chip
> > (I-VPN). It is fed from Pin 5 (VTIM - vertical timing?) of IC301 chroma
> > jumgle chip - but needn't be I wonder?
>
> > > Also, there is another set of RGB inputs on the jungle chip that are
> > > tied to the supply line via caps. Maybe this is where the Euro
> > > versions inject RGB via the scart input?
>
> > The jungle chip is a CXA2061S, it's a 'Y/C/RGB/D for NTSC Color TVs.
>
> > CXA2061S Datasheet :)http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/sony/a6802306.pdf
>
> > And there is a further manual here for your BA-4D chassishttp://www.scribd.com/doc/8264534/sony-BA4D-
>
> > HTH!
>
> > --
> > Adrian C
>
> Excellent info! Thanks....- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Ok, I've been looking at the datasheet for the jungle chip and it
appears I can use the set of unused RGB inputs. I'm a little foggy
about the select line tho (YS1). They left it floating, so to select
that set of inputs what is it looking for? Just a logic level H or L?

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 3:49 pm
From: Adrian C

On 27/02/2011 19:11, boardjunkie1 wrote:

> Ok, I've been looking at the datasheet for the jungle chip and it
> appears I can use the set of unused RGB inputs. I'm a little foggy
> about the select line tho (YS1). They left it floating, so to select
> that set of inputs what is it looking for? Just a logic level H or L?

Top of Page 9, description for Pin 25?
More than 0.7V switches the input on.

However, there is an I2C register detailed on Page 22 - RGB SEL (1):
"Disables YS1 switch selection and prohibits external signal input from
RGB1"

If that's set (and it probably is_, then you'll have to find a way to
unset that. EEPROM hacking? dunno.

Seems, there is a pin compatible jungle chip, the CXA2060AS which works
for PAL sets that will have SCART RGB on those same inputs.
http://www.sony.net/Products/SC-HP/cx_news/vol11/pdf/a2060.pdf

A bit of googling should find you a european Sony set that uses that
chip and then ... etc....

(Can't take all the fun away from your expedition!... :-)

--
Adrian C

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Arfa Daily = MORONIC TROLL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2588a3ac4e8b297d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 3:19 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

When you're "sober", you almost always give intelligent advice. You're like
Jekyll and Hyde -- cubed.

I hope all this is "deliberate", because you can change if you want to. And
when you do, you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier.

== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 4:36 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker"

** Bill,

if you were merely a fuckwit

- you would not be even half so bad

..... Phil

== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 5:00 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> "William Sommerwanker"
> ** Bill,

> if you were merely a fuckwit
> - you would not be even half so bad

And your point is...?

== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 5:47 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker"
>
>> ** Bill,
>
>> if you were merely a fuckwit
>> - you would not be even half so bad
>
> And your point is...?
>

** You could not have made for me it any better.....

ROTFL

.... Phil

== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 9:00 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 27 Feb 2011 09:02:59 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

> "Phil Allison is a Lying Retarded PIG "

I fixed the Subject line and edited your comment to reflect the truth.

No need to thank me.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 9:21 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I fixed the Subject line and edited your comment
> to reflect the truth. No need to thank me.

Thank you, anyway.

How many times do we have to tell you, Phil, that we are neither impressed
with nor frightened my your rude remarks?

Aren't you bothered that other people consider you psychotic? And to what
end?

== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 12:36 pm
From: Jamie

William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>I fixed the Subject line and edited your comment
>>to reflect the truth. No need to thank me.
>
>
> Thank you, anyway.
>
> How many times do we have to tell you, Phil, that we are neither impressed
> with nor frightened my your rude remarks?
>
> Aren't you bothered that other people consider you psychotic? And to what
> end?
>
>
You haven't yet blocked him?

Jamie

== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 1:22 pm
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:76jap.26428$To7.25344@newsfe12.ams2...
>
>
> "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
> news:8st8guFqjiU1@mid.individual.net...
>>
>> "William Sommerwanker "
>>>
>>>> ** ROTFLMAO !!
>>>> Wot a fucking moron the stupid pommy cunt is.
>>>> Only posts questions he already THINKS he knows the answers to.
>>>> Just so the pommy cunt can smugly contradict anyone who dares to reply.
>>>> Wot a fucking MORON !!!!!!!!!!!!
>>>
>>>
>>> I guess you have never been unsure about something, and asked for
>>> confirmation.
>>
>> ** That is NOT what the CUNT did !!
>>
>> You illiterate, fuckwit bloody TROLL.
>>
>>
>>
>
> Oh boy. The Antipodean twat is off and running again ... What is it with
> you Philip ? I know we all take the piss out of you about forgetting to
> take your meds, but is that really the case ? Or do you smoke funny stuff
> that addles your dumbarsed brain or something ? Or maybe you've got a
> drink habit ? Whatever it is pal, you seriously, and I mean SERIOUSLY need
> to address it before you one day do something that you are really gonna
> regret when you sober up / come down / remember to take your meds again.
> The really sad thing is that when you are in control, you are actually
> lucid and make real sense. I was actually treating you as an adult in this
> thread, and being ok with you, but stupid me for being fooled by you
> again. How many times is it that you've gone off on one to me now ? Five ?
> Six maybe, over the years ? And still you haven't learnt, have you ? I
> simply don't fucking CARE, you dopey twat. You can call me what you like,
> it will still be you that's the stupid one on here, that everybody is
> laughing at. Read that carefully. Laughing AT, not WITH.
>
> Now be a good boy and do whatever you need to get your sensible head back
> on. And if you can do that, and come back into the conversation making
> some sense, then that's fine, and we'll all have a little chuckle, and put
> it down to good ol' Philip, just having one of his little episodes. And if
> you can't, then just turn off your computer, and crawl back into your
> darkened room or back under your rock or wherever it is you sleep, and
> don't come back out until you've learnt how to behave again. Capiche ?
>
> Arfa

I am proud to call Geoff Darby, (Arfa) a friend.

Mark Zacharias

== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 4:15 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I haven't any background experience to make suggestions, but this perplexing
circuit you're seeing sounds a like the schematic I looked at for the
*Peavey Mace A* series (6, 6L6GC output tubes).
That's sounds like how the schematic was drawn, although I haven't see the
actual circuit layout of that model.. separate resistors were used for each
tube of one pair.. then another pair was wired direct, while the third pair
had 2 more separate resistors shown between those pairs (appearing like the
2 resistors were wired in series between those 2 pairs).

There seem to be numerous similarities in many PV amp model schematics of
the power output sections, but then some specific oddities in a couple of
models' schematics that look out of place (to me, anyway).

One thing that I have discovered recently, is that there are a huge number
of PV amp users, and lots of forum discussions about many modifications
(some that have produced results, and some that don't) and also repairs.
You're probably already aware that many forum discussions wrt electronic
circuits can include unintentional errors and/or other misleading info (this
mod I came up with is the ultimate! for example), so that much of the forum
info needs to be pondered and then either accepted or rejected by one's
better judgement and/or experience.. and compared to the rule: if it werks,
don't fuck with it.

As I've only recently started dabbling in this area, I've noticed one thing
that's prevalent.. practially every component in/on guitars and amps have
been tampered with and replaced, and the majority of reports of the actors
claim that the acts produce amazing results.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:ZeR9p.55357$XM7.40303@newsfe18.ams2...
>A muso customer has asked me to carry out some tonal mods to his Peavey
>Classic 30. All pretty straightforward cap changes and so on. However, he
>also asked me to look into fitting a pentode / triode switch whilst I was
>at it. At first glance, this didn't look like a problem. The output stage
>is a fairly classic AB class using 4 x EL84 tubes as two paralleled pairs.
>Anodes of each pair commoned. Cathodes all commoned and decked. Grids of
>each pair commoned via individual 47k stoppers. But then, things get a
>little odd around the screen grids. One tube of each pair, has its screen
>grid fed by a 100 ohm 5 watt resistor off the "screen" supply rail, whilst
>the other of each pair, has its screen grid fed *direct* from the "screen"
>supply rail.
>
> I don't think I've seen this done before. I've seen one screen resistor
> feeding both tubes of a pair, or one resistor per screen, but not just one
> tube having a screen feed resistor. Apart from anything else, I wouldn't
> normally have considered it very good design practice to have no current
> limiting at all in place. Also, it will mean that the screen voltage will
> be higher on one tube of the pair, than the other. I doubt that it would
> have a significant effect on the operation of the stage, but just
> interested as to whether anyone else has come across this configuration,
> and knows the design reasoning behind it. Anyone got any opinions about
> just strapping the screens to the anodes on each pair via a switch, to
> implement a triode mode ?
>
> Arfa

== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 4:19 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker"

** Bill - you are just another boring usenet wanker, a TROLL and a complete
fuckwit.

D R O P DEAD

== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 4:21 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Mark Zacharias"

> I am proud to call Geoff Darby, (Arfa) a friend.

** My god you must be a desperate poofter to lick the bullshitting fool's
arse in public like that.

Makes YOU into a moronic troll too.

Piss off.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: EXTORADINARY HOT PHOTOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9b889eb0386f05ca?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Followup Tube Amp Valve Peavey Mace VT Guitar Amplifier
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6e24e1ac0057bca8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 5:33 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

The amp has been checked out, first, ESR checks (for a quick check of the
electrolytics before powering on.. initial power-up with a PR57 isolation
xfmr/variac increased slowly over the course of more than an hour.. since I
didn't know how long it's been since the amp was actually used.
Voltages have been checked with 2 6N3C tubes in place (originals are
6l6GC).. 475, 470, 6.25VAC, and -55.

I first powered the amp in Standby with no tubes, and checked the operation
of the preamp with a speaker plugged into the Preamp Out jack, and also the
Line Out jack.

Several pots (12 total) were intermittently open while turning (even though
I'd tried to get DeoxIT paste into them, which is somewhat difficult).
Getting liquid DeoxIt into the openings was a matter of propping the chassis
up at an angle where the liquid would drip off of a needle tip into the
opening so it would migrate back into the pot.

The orientation of the openings on the pots make it difficult to get a
little DeoxIt paste into the pot cases so the wiper can pick it up and wipe
it across the track, and the pot shafts were hard to turn, indicating that
any original lube was likely very stiff (30 years old now).. but I also
suspect that the open state was poor contact between the wiper and the fixed
center terminal (typically a ring around the shaft that rides on a
stationary contact that is part of the center terminal).

The Reverb circuit isn't working, although I can hear echo sounds from
probing pin 3 of (IC) U6, and thumping the spring box produces loud echo.
The test setup is included with the schematic, so I'll get around to
checking the missing reverb.
The Phaser/Rate and Color circuits are operating normally.

The schematic shows the tube designations V1-V6, and just 2 used tubes were
installed into sockets for V1 and V3, and the amp was operated for more than
an hour, from the Main Output (8 ohm) into a vintage 12" Utah Celesta
tri-axial speaker without any problems (low to mid volume levels)..
sometimes fed/injecting 1kHz tone, and also playing a guitar thru the
various inputs.

The full schematic with board images can be found here (many other models,
too):
peavey mace deuce vt [2 MB]

http://www.schematicsunlimited.com/?z=peavey

Also an extensive list of semis and replacement part numbers:
peavey semiconductor cross reference list [117 KB]

The differences between the Deuce and the Mace are clearly shown in the 4
pages of the info.
The power output section of the Mace VT series is wired differently from the
*Mace A series* model, which I'd commented on earlier.
The Mace VT model utilizes separate 100/5W resistors for each tube's screen
grids (pin 4) and separate 47k resistors for each tube's control grid (pins
5).

I found numerous suggestions to replace the screen grid 100 ohm/5W resistors
(pins 4) with 470/5W, and to replace R1 400 ohm/10W resistor (500V source)
with a choke. I may try this fairly easy modification after using the amp
for a while.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 8:18 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Cosap.425606$Ph5.96697@en-nntp-07.dc1.easynews.com...

>
> The Reverb circuit isn't working, although I can hear echo sounds from
> probing pin 3 of (IC) U6, and thumping the spring box produces loud echo.

Commonest problem with spring reverb pans, is the wires to the transducers
inside breaking off the RCA sockets

Arfa

> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 11:13 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Thanks again, Arfa. That was my suspicion, as the shielded cables look a bit
flimsy, so I ohm'd the coils out (~128 ohm coils) and confirmed the readings
from the preamp board (Molex) connector, and the readings were the same.

The echo sounds from probing the IC pin essentially confirms the operation
of the reverb reverb unit.

The ICs are all socketed, so they may be a bit oxidized, and need pulled and
reseated.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:5Puap.78605$ts7.3199@newsfe14.ams2...
>
>
> "Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:Cosap.425606$Ph5.96697@en-nntp-07.dc1.easynews.com...
>
>
>>
>> The Reverb circuit isn't working, although I can hear echo sounds from
>> probing pin 3 of (IC) U6, and thumping the spring box produces loud echo.
>
>
> Commonest problem with spring reverb pans, is the wires to the transducers
> inside breaking off the RCA sockets
>
> Arfa
>
>
>> Cheers,
>> WB
>> .............
>>
>>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: First Lady preaches real good
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9265c545d62eced4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 4:52 am
From: Michael Gross

Lady Veteran wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Feb 2011 00:21:26 -0700, "Tom" <tom@nospam.net> wrote:
>
>> Tells us to all eat healthy foods, no snacks, no soda--yet this big assed
>> cuntbag went to colorado for a trip and ate some realy high caloric intake
>
> Don't yo idiots do the same. You are in here harassing fat people yet
> you don't abide by what drivel you preach.
>
> If she wants ribs once in a while she is allowed to have them. What is
> it to you? The key is moderation-something you idiots have never heard
> of...
>

Your idea of moderation is 8,000 calories a day instead of the usual 15,000

>> She is a two faced 4the generation ex slaver monkey bitch-who has no reason
>> or power to tell people how or what to eat
>
> I see, the old racist lives again. Man up coward. If you really
> believed that you would not do it behind a nym.
>
>> she needs to go back to Africa and suck babannas, and take the commie faggot
>> wonder boy--the light green blue gummes bastard nigger from Kenya with her
>>
> I think your mother dropped you on your head as a baby. That has to be
> the reason you are such an idiot.
>

I think if your mother dropped you on your head as a baby it would break
off and a 3.0 earthquake would ensue.

>> Fuck both of these cocksuckers
>> rschuh@yahoo.com
>> Proud to be White
>
> Yep.
>
> White washed and a coward to boot.
>
You got a problem with white people? Of course, your skin is shit
colored like your teeth.
> LV
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Bobbi's Chihuahuas
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5d811baa54922b26?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 5:26 am
From: Michael Gross

Lady Veteran wrote:
> On Sat, 26 Feb 2011 16:54:51 -0800, Fern Martinez <fern@worldwide.com>
> wrote:
>
>> nohfr@nvbr.bet
>
> Are you enjoying the gossip mongering, Useless?
>
> I sure hope so.
>
> One of these days you are going to insult the wrong person and that
> person will turn out to be a psycho killer who will beat you to death
> with a wet noodle.
>
> Or, you may meet some who is as nuts are you are.
>
> I know why you want to hid your identity, Fern. There are cures for
> leprosy these days. You don't have to be ashamed and hide.
>
> Come into the light. You won't dissolve.
>
> LV
>

Shut up with that fucking mouth.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Washing machine motor won't start, bad triac ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96d2b3fb706b3e62?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Feb 27 2011 2:47 pm
From: Andre Majorel

On 2011-02-26, Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net> wrote:
> Sylvia Else Inscribed thus:
>
>> I'd have to wonder whether one of the rotor windings has failed
>> open-cicuit. I think that could even account for the sparks. The
>> magnetic field for a winding that is becoming disconnected by the
>> brush action has to collapse because the broken winding that's being
>> connected cannot maintain the field.
>
> Sounds like OC segments on the comm...

The old man and I don't know enough about motors to be sure but
we did suspect something along the same lines.

We thought that even if we determined which winding is damaged,
attempting a fix would be risky and a lot of work. So we got a
used (but working) motor from electrodocas.fr. That fixed it.

Thanks folks.

--
Andr� Majorel http://www.teaser.fr/~amajorel/
"The object of this year's expedition is to see if we can find
trace of last year's expedition."

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