sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Help - UPS not charging - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f1fedcfd7a3b652?hl=en
* A source of information? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3dd64f43f159e14f?hl=en
* Radar detector/scrambler - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/646f5661b2cfc1b7?hl=en
* Tube Amp 6L6GC Valve Peavey Mace VT Guitar Amplifier - 9 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9ad57064b3ab9e7f?hl=en
* Repairing NiCd battery packs - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0dcecdb70389a722?hl=en
* Any Windoze experts on here ? Bit OT ... - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cffb93376f721ce8?hl=en
* 30 GB Video IPod redux - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a8cdcbc5c8be1933?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help - UPS not charging
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2f1fedcfd7a3b652?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 1:08 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 12:56:57 -0800, martinmarty wrote:

> I have a UPS about 11 years old. It is an IBM OfficePro 700 which is
> actually a Tripp-Lite product. Inside on the circuit board it says
> 66-0546. The web says the Mfr model number is 10K1912.
>
> Not too long ago its yellow light started flashing that says the
> batteries are discharged. Because of its age, I assumed the batteries
> were worn out so I bought new ones. Unfortunately, after installing them
> the problem did not go away.
>
> When plugged in to AC, the unit has its green LED lit which shows it is
> getting AC power in. The yellow LED flashes. according to the manual,
> "This yellow light will turn ON continuously to indicate that the UPS's
> battery is less than fully charged. If it stays on continuously, contact
> Tripp-Lite fo service. The light will flash after you set the 'OFF/ON'
> Switch to the 'OFF' position to indicate that the UPS will not provide
> battery backup during a blackout or brownout." Regardless of whether I
> set the OFF/ON switch to OFF or ON, the yellow light flashes.
>
> There is a Mute/Test switch. If I run the test, the red LED briefly
> lights and the alram briefly sounds, as if it tried to switch over to
> battery power but there was no power there.
>
> It kind of seems like the charging circuit is not charging the batteries
> but I don't know how to test this theory. I left it sit plugged in for a
> few days hoping it would charge but it did not.
>
> There are several fuses on the circuit board, all soldered on, and they
> all measure zero ohms so I don't think that is the problem. There are no
> obviously leaky capacitors or any other components that look burned up
> or damaged judging by visual inspection.
>
> I like this UPS and would like to revive it, especially since I spent
> money on the new batteries. If anybody could help me diagnose the
> problem, tell me where to start, what to check, etc. I would appreciate
> it.
>
> All ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.

The batteries should have come with enough charge to operate the unit or
at least pass the battery test. Make sure the connections are correct.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 1:32 pm
From: martinmarty

On Feb 19, 4:08 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 12:56:57 -0800, martinmarty wrote:
> > I have a UPS about 11 years old. It is an IBM OfficePro 700 which is
> > actually a Tripp-Lite product. Inside on the circuit board it says
> > 66-0546. The web says the Mfr model number is 10K1912.
>
> > Not too long ago its yellow light started flashing that says the
> > batteries are discharged. Because of its age, I assumed the batteries
> > were worn out so I bought new ones. Unfortunately, after installing them
> > the problem did not go away.
>
> > When plugged in to AC, the unit has its green LED lit which shows it is
> > getting AC power in. The yellow LED flashes. according to the manual,
> > "This yellow light will turn ON continuously to indicate that the UPS's
> > battery is less than fully charged. If it stays on continuously, contact
> > Tripp-Lite fo service. The light will flash after you set the 'OFF/ON'
> > Switch to the 'OFF' position to indicate that the UPS will not provide
> > battery backup during a blackout or brownout." Regardless of whether I
> > set the OFF/ON switch to OFF or ON, the yellow light flashes.
>
> > There is a Mute/Test switch. If I run the test, the red LED briefly
> > lights and the alram briefly sounds, as if it tried to switch over to
> > battery power but there was no power there.
>
> > It kind of seems like the charging circuit is not charging the batteries
> > but I don't know how to test this theory. I left it sit plugged in for a
> > few days hoping it would charge but it did not.
>
> > There are several fuses on the circuit board, all soldered on, and they
> > all measure zero ohms so I don't think that is the problem. There are no
> > obviously leaky capacitors or any other components that look burned up
> > or damaged judging by visual inspection.
>
> > I like this UPS and would like to revive it, especially since I spent
> > money on the new batteries. If anybody could help me diagnose the
> > problem, tell me where to start, what to check, etc. I would appreciate
> > it.
>
> > All ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.
>
> The batteries should have come with enough charge to operate the unit or
> at least pass the battery test. Make sure the connections are correct.
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Thank you for the reply.

The connections are good. When any of the battery connections are
disconnected, I get no lights at all on the front panel. Right now I
have it torn apart enough where I can see all the connections. I have
all connections oriented the same as the batteries I took out. The (2
x 6V) batteries are connected in a series and currently measure
approx. 13.2V total. Thanks.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 5:31 pm
From: who where

On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 12:56:57 -0800 (PST), martinmarty
<martyurbanek@gmail.com> wrote:

>I have a UPS about 11 years old. It is an IBM OfficePro 700 which is
>actually a Tripp-Lite product. Inside on the circuit board it says
>66-0546. The web says the Mfr model number is 10K1912.
>
>Not too long ago its yellow light started flashing that says the
>batteries are discharged. Because of its age, I assumed the batteries
>were worn out so I bought new ones. Unfortunately, after installing
>them the problem did not go away.

I know it's no consolation (or help with your problem now) but any
time a cheap (i.e."desktop/office") UPS shows symptoms of failure the
battery system is the culprit 95% of the time, or more.

When it IS a genuine UPS fault, it is almost always beter to junk it
and buy a new one.

The only way you can tell which is the fault is to jury-rig another
battery to the UPS and see if the symptoms continue. Fortunately most
of this category of UPS use 12V so a spare auto battery will suffice.

(I have a bank of four 12V >100Ah SLA's which I am routinely using to
verify the functionality of assorted UPS' brought here, up to ~6kVA.)

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 5:43 pm
From: Sylvia Else

On 20/02/2011 7:56 AM, martinmarty wrote:
> I have a UPS about 11 years old. It is an IBM OfficePro 700 which is
> actually a Tripp-Lite product. Inside on the circuit board it says
> 66-0546. The web says the Mfr model number is 10K1912.
>
> Not too long ago its yellow light started flashing that says the
> batteries are discharged. Because of its age, I assumed the batteries
> were worn out so I bought new ones. Unfortunately, after installing
> them the problem did not go away.
>
> When plugged in to AC, the unit has its green LED lit which shows it
> is getting AC power in. The yellow LED flashes. according to the
> manual, "This yellow light will turn ON continuously to indicate that
> the UPS's battery is less than fully charged. If it stays on
> continuously, contact Tripp-Lite fo service. The light will flash
> after you set the 'OFF/ON' Switch to the 'OFF' position to indicate
> that the UPS will not provide battery backup during a blackout or
> brownout." Regardless of whether I set the OFF/ON switch to OFF or ON,
> the yellow light flashes.
>
> There is a Mute/Test switch. If I run the test, the red LED briefly
> lights and the alram briefly sounds, as if it tried to switch over to
> battery power but there was no power there.
>
> It kind of seems like the charging circuit is not charging the
> batteries but I don't know how to test this theory. I left it sit
> plugged in for a few days hoping it would charge but it did not.
>
> There are several fuses on the circuit board, all soldered on, and
> they all measure zero ohms so I don't think that is the problem. There
> are no obviously leaky capacitors or any other components that look
> burned up or damaged judging by visual inspection.
>
> I like this UPS and would like to revive it, especially since I spent
> money on the new batteries. If anybody could help me diagnose the
> problem, tell me where to start, what to check, etc. I would
> appreciate it.
>
> All ideas welcome. Thanks in advance.

From your description it appears that the light is flashing, whereas if
the UPS considered the batteries insufficiently charged, the light would
be constantly on.

I'd check the continuity and connections to the on/off switch, given
that your manual effectively says that the flashing light means that the
switch is in the off position. Make sure the switch continuity actually
changes state, and determine whether it's closed in the "on" position,
or vice-versa (the latter seems unlikely, but best not to assume). Try
to track the connections from that switch back to whatever is looking at
it - probably an IC - could just be a dry joint, or a short, depending
on how the switch is used. If you can track back to an IC pin, you can
check whether it changes state - with suitable care given that you'll
need the battery connected, and this device might start generating mains
voltages at any moment.

Sylvia.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: A source of information?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3dd64f43f159e14f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 2:36 pm
From: "Charles"

"David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
news:4d5f0eb1$0$12544$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...

On 2/18/2011 4:12 PM Charles spake thus:

It appears from your numerous recent postings that you need to learn
something about how Usenet (that's where you've posted these messages)
works.

You've posted the same question now in at least three threads in this
newsgroup with no apparent luck so far, apart from drawing some abuse
from Phil Allison.

You and Phil and Mike need to learn about basic civil behavior. The first
and second posts garnered rude and irrelevant replies. So, I re-posted ...
Shame On Me! I think questions are healthy and interesting things and help
us all advance. I think stupid and rude responses are beyond the pale.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 3:18 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

You might find that using JAN numbers or FSNs are a lot of fun.

Most folks involved in the repair/service industries have used common part
numbers, generally marked directly on components (or parts
lists/schematics), for finding equivalent replacement parts.. for at least
the last several decades.

This method is efficient and reliable.. but of course, you're
welcome/entitled to use any other method you'd care to.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Charles" <charlesschuler@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ijpgkn$84v$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>
>
>
> You and Phil and Mike need to learn about basic civil behavior. The first
> and second posts garnered rude and irrelevant replies. So, I re-posted
> ... Shame On Me! I think questions are healthy and interesting things and
> help us all advance. I think stupid and rude responses are beyond the
> pale.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 3:36 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Charles wrote:
>
> "David Nebenzahl" wrote in message
> news:4d5f0eb1$0$12544$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com...
>
> On 2/18/2011 4:12 PM Charles spake thus:
>
> It appears from your numerous recent postings that you need to learn
> something about how Usenet (that's where you've posted these messages)
> works.
>
> You've posted the same question now in at least three threads in this
> newsgroup with no apparent luck so far, apart from drawing some abuse
> from Phil Allison.
>
> You and Phil and Mike need to learn about basic civil behavior. The first
> and second posts garnered rude and irrelevant replies. So, I re-posted ...
> Shame On Me! I think questions are healthy and interesting things and help
> us all advance. I think stupid and rude responses are beyond the pale.

Charles, follow your own advice.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 4:18 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Charles the TROLL "

> You and Phil and Mike need to learn about basic civil behavior.

** Why be civil to a demented, bullshitting TROLL like you ??

You have NO point, No clue and NO case whatsoever.

Plus you REFUSE to take any notice when you are corrected.

QED you are a TROLL.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Radar detector/scrambler
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/646f5661b2cfc1b7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 3:34 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> On Feb 18, 6:38 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Jim Yanik wrote:
> >
> > > Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote in
> > >news:e8dpl61rq9e2phhlustatkkuhlmtu5eku8@4ax.com:
> >
> > > > Ramsey Radar Gun:
> > > ><http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key
> > > >=SG7>
> >
> > > I used to go to high school with John Ramsey;
> > > he used to make little "wireless microphones".
> >
> > Did you ever see one of his 'Service Monitors' he sold to the pager
> > repair business?
>
> It would seem to me though that if you were to simply generate even a
> dead carrier on the radar frequency sufficient in strength to swamp
> that of the returned signal back to the origination point wouldn't
> that do the job? I don't mean to say that it would be healthy or smart
> for that matter to drive around all the time while transmitting 10.0
> GHZ or whatever but how complicated does this have to be? The PRC 25
> and 77 had a "retransmit" function. We never really used it but I was
> under the impression that it would retransmit the signal it received
> perhaps to a repeater for distant communication. So if the military
> had this in 1968 it must be easy to implement now. Lenny

It isn't that simple. Police RADAR works by Doppler effect. I.E.,
the returned signal is mixed with with a sample of the transmitted
frequency. The difference in frequency tells your speed. Any attempt
to jam it will be a crap shoot. Even if you managed to match the RADAR
transmitter's frequency, it would still show your speed.

Military RADAR is RAdio Detection And Ranging, or a means to bounce a
signal off metallic objects, and time the reflection to measure the
distance. The rotating antenna gives you the heading. Some also change
the vertical angle to give the elevation of a target. I've serviced
both types.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 3:50 pm
From: PeterD

On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 18:34:47 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
> It isn't that simple. Police RADAR works by Doppler effect. I.E.,
>the returned signal is mixed with with a sample of the transmitted
>frequency. The difference in frequency tells your speed. Any attempt
>to jam it will be a crap shoot. Even if you managed to match the RADAR
>transmitter's frequency, it would still show your speed.
>

You know the frequency of the signal you receive. You know your speed.
Assuming you could build a circuit to compute the necessary bits, you
should have little trouble computing the original transmitted
frequency with those two bits of information. The simply transmitting
the same frequency back should result in the desired result of a lower
reading.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 4:32 pm
From: Jim Yanik

PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in
news:5kl0m65ivs5mur7bntkd0tmnlse8vqur1o@4ax.com:

> On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 18:34:47 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
><mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> It isn't that simple. Police RADAR works by Doppler effect. I.E.,
>>the returned signal is mixed with with a sample of the transmitted
>>frequency. The difference in frequency tells your speed. Any attempt
>>to jam it will be a crap shoot. Even if you managed to match the RADAR
>>transmitter's frequency, it would still show your speed.
>>
>
> You know the frequency of the signal you receive. You know your speed.
> Assuming you could build a circuit to compute the necessary bits, you
> should have little trouble computing the original transmitted
> frequency with those two bits of information. The simply transmitting
> the same frequency back should result in the desired result of a lower
> reading.
>
>

the active jammers I've seen program a set freq. shift to give a lesser
speed reading at the radargun. they had a switch to change it for different
speed zones.The jammer's stronger direct signal overwhelms the weaker
reflection of the gun's signal.

But white noise is broadband,so a radargun would not be able to make any
comparison to the transmitted freq. with a "white noise jammer" It would
raise the noise floor ABOVE the reflected signal,smothering it.
I believe I've seen references to radarguns having an indicator for
"jamming",and their audio output would also be an indicator,operators being
trained to recognize interference.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:03 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 18:34:47 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> >
> > It isn't that simple. Police RADAR works by Doppler effect. I.E.,
> >the returned signal is mixed with with a sample of the transmitted
> >frequency. The difference in frequency tells your speed. Any attempt
> >to jam it will be a crap shoot. Even if you managed to match the RADAR
> >transmitter's frequency, it would still show your speed.
> >
>
> You know the frequency of the signal you receive. You know your speed.
> Assuming you could build a circuit to compute the necessary bits, you
> should have little trouble computing the original transmitted
> frequency with those two bits of information. The simply transmitting
> the same frequency back should result in the desired result of a lower
> reading.

Do you know the angle the RADAR transmitter is coming from? Also, if
the display is obviously wrong, the cop will know you are using ECM to
avoid a ticket.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tube Amp 6L6GC Valve Peavey Mace VT Guitar Amplifier
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9ad57064b3ab9e7f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 4:20 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Meat Plow is a Lying PIG "

> Could refit with two EL34s.

** Make any issues worse, not better.

> My Musicman 112 combo uses a pair of Mullards
> at around 700v plate.

** And only half that voltage on the screens.

Not relevant at all - fuckhead.

Now you post something that MAKES SENSE.

Bet you cannot.

.... Phil

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 5:24 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 11:20:15 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

> "Phil Allison is a Lying PIG "

<snip>

Take your medication trollop.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 5:32 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Meat Plow is a Lying PIG "

> Could refit with two EL34s.

** Make any issues worse, not better.

> My Musicman 112 combo uses a pair of Mullards
> at around 700v plate.

** And only half that voltage on the screens.

Not relevant at all - fuckhead.

Now you post something that MAKES SENSE.

Bet you cannot.

.... Phil

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:04 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Meat Plow wrote:
>
> Take your medication trollop.

Just killfile him.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a band-aid on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:05 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Michael A. Terrell"

> Just killfile him.

** The moral coward's way out.

And look who suggested it.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:25 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 12:32:59 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

> I can't post something that MAKES SENSE.

We agree

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:33 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Meat Plow = Meat Head

> Could refit with two EL34s.

** Make any issues worse, not better.

> My Musicman 112 combo uses a pair of Mullards
> at around 700v plate.

** And only half that voltage on the screens.

Not relevant at all - fuckhead.

Now you post something that MAKES SENSE.

Bet anything you cannot.

And you keep proving it.

.... Phil

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:46 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 13:05:58 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

> "Michael A. Terrell"
>
> > Just killfile him.
>
>
> ** The moral coward's way out.
>
> And look who suggested it.

I like to bitch slap you around Phyllis. I won't
ever kill file the weak one.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:55 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 2/19/2011 8:33 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> Not relevant at all - fuckhead.
>
> .... Phil

Ya know, I'm kind of curious Phil, why all this hostility?

Jeff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repairing NiCd battery packs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0dcecdb70389a722?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 4:33 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Andrew Rossmann"

> Has anyone had any luck in replacing individual cells?

** Best to replace the lot.

> There are no
> markings on the batteries, so I have no idea what their capacity is.

** See above.

> These are chained together with short metal strips that are spot-welded
> to the batteries. How easy/hard would it be to solder to them, and will
> it damage the batteries if I try?

** Try to get cells that have tags fitted to them.

These are very easy to solder with any decent soldering iron and flux cored
solder ( not lead free) as used for electronic work.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Any Windoze experts on here ? Bit OT ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cffb93376f721ce8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:13 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:ijp0kl$j5l$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Do you notice any slowdown when this occurs?
>
> I have a similar "problem" under W2K. Windows creates a virtual memory
> swap
> file when started, and expands it as needed. Unfortunately, the expanding
> swap file causes the machine to slow down, and a restart is eventually
> required. (This can take a few days to a week or more, depending on how
> "hard" you push the OS. I tend to have a lot of apps and files open at
> once,
> so I have to restart as often as every four or five days.)
>
> It's also possible some freaky malware is running. You need a utility that
> shows everything running on the machine, such as Process Explorer.
>
>

Yes, it does slow down. I have the Windoze memory usage widget running, and
you can see the usage creeping up over a couple of days or so, to the point
where it reaches 90+ %, at which point, the machine is crawling, and having
difficulty having multiple programs open at once. It then needs a restart,
although occasionally, if I let it get too bad, there's not even enough room
to run the shutdown utility, and I then have to do a crash and burn BRS
restart ... Just as a matter of interest, the memory monitor that is part
of the cleaner program, agrees exactly with the Windoze widget.

As to W2K, I ran the pro version on my previous machine, prior to ending up
with XP Pro, and I have to say that I never seemed to have the problem with
either of those two versions.

Arfa

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:29 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"martinmarty" <martyurbanek@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:cbdfc8a5-c78b-47c2-8f1e-ff0f02d8ecae@j9g2000prj.googlegroups.com...
> What are you using to see the amount of memory in use, like 35% then
> eventually 90%?
>
> I agree with the guy who said go into Task Mgr / Processes and see
> which tasks are using the memory.
>
> Another couple ideas to narrow it down, if you think you know what the
> culprit is, to test the theory:
>
> - Go into MSCONFIG and under the Services & Startup tabs, disable all
> non-essential non-MS startups and services, then see if PC can idle
> for a few days without gobbling up all mem.
>
> - Along the same lines, try booting into Safe Mode and see if it can
> idle a few days without gobbling up the mem.
>
> Or if you don't know what the culprit is perhaps you can use those
> techniques to determine by process of elimination.
>
> Perhaps some program or even OS component has a debug trace or log
> turned on which is stored in mem and the longer you run the more it
> consumes.

Some good steers there, and also from others who have replied. Thanks all
for your input. I am using two things to monitor the memory usage. The first
is the built-in Windoze memory and processor usage graphic desktop widget.
The second is the memory usage monitoring tool in the memory cleaner program
that I have been using. It agrees exactly with the Windoze one, which would
suggest that they are right. As you see the memory clogging up over a couple
of days, the system performance degrades very noticeably, to the point where
it becomes unusable for all practical purposes. If you then run the cleaner,
it will recover perhaps 20% at best, and there is a corresponding
improvement in performance, which again, would suggest to me that what the
widget is reporting as being the case, actually *is* the case. Ultimately,
the only way to get the system back to full normal performance, is to either
soft or hard restart, after which, low memory usage is again reported.

When I get time, I'll do a restart, and then note what all of the background
applications and the system, are using. When it has started to clog
noticeably, I'll recheck, and see what is using it all ...

Arfa

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:48 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 20 Feb 2011 02:13:51 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:

> Yes, it does slow down. I have the Windoze memory usage widget running,
> and you can see the usage creeping up over a couple of days or so, to
> the point where it reaches 90+ %, at which point, the machine is
> crawling, and having difficulty having multiple programs open at once.
> It then needs a restart, although occasionally, if I let it get too bad,
> there's not even enough room to run the shutdown utility, and I then
> have to do a crash and burn BRS restart ... Just as a matter of
> interest, the memory monitor that is part of the cleaner program, agrees
> exactly with the Windoze widget.

Open the Task Manager and see what process(s) are eating up your ram and
CPU. Report back.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 30 GB Video IPod redux
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a8cdcbc5c8be1933?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Feb 19 2011 6:33 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.02.19.17.24.47@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Sat, 19 Feb 2011 02:23:03 +0000, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2011.02.18.17.28.35@lmao.lol.lol...
>>> Ok the display is backlit with 4 LEDs at the bottom. Behind the LCD
>>> there is a light diffuser/spreader whatever you want to call it. It's a
>>> static component just there to spread the light from the light source
>>> evenly behind the LCD. Obviously this was damaged somehow, probably
>>> dropped although the former owner would not admit it and the IPod has
>>> no apparent damage to the case. Behind the light "spreader" there is a
>>> reflective piece of something. It's not totally opaque because I can
>>> shine a strong light through it and see the damage on the LCD side with
>>> the display unplugged. So this is a simple matter of replacing the
>>> display This particular model has five latches on each side, two on the
>>> bottom and one on the top.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>>
>> Presumably, it came apart without issue ? What did you use in the end,
>> as your 'entry tool' ?
>>
>> Arfa
>
> Small blade of my Victorinox Swiss army knife. Only issue were the five
> latches per side, one on top and two on the bottom contrary to the video
> of the Japanese lady dispatching the case in short order with three per
> side and two on the top and bottom. The important thing is to recognize
> the latches protrude from the metal case into the chassis. I figured that
> was the correct assumption right off the bat because the case could not
> harbor a dimple for a latch. The backside is actually two pieces. The
> internal has the latches to fit the chassis dimples. I guess this is so
> the outside piece would not be cosmetically influence by adding latches
> to it.
>
> Now, where to get a new display? There is 1WU5K2077258 on the back of
> the display. Does this mean anything to you? That's all I really need.
> The 3.5mm jack and battery are fine. Come to think of it I might want to
> replace the front panel because there are some scuffs and scratches over
> the display and if I've gone this far that might as well be replaced
> since the entire unit was a gift I'm not out any money.
>
>

Not sure where you might get parts in the U.S. I don't know if that company
I pointed you at here in the UK would ship to the U.S. Might be worth
flashing them a mail to ask. I think I found them originally just Googling
"iPod spare parts". You should be able to at least find the part you need on
their site, which might allow you to cross reference it.

Arfa

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