sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Running a PC outside of a computer case - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/767389e3dda5bc79?hl=en
* MBOX - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0825a0aef2635ff9?hl=en
* Oral-b Braun electronic toothbrush problem - 16 messages, 9 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/49caca46fe47e846?hl=en
* Recommendation for electronics forums? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a2a97ca7806d8277?hl=en
* DATING WITH GIRLS - HOT SEXY VIDEOS - CHATTING HERE - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c9d14f17d904116?hl=en
* XXX HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ebea51ab4a489608?hl=en
* SOUTH ACTRESS HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/939a2c2b61907b4d?hl=en
* Fake Audio Amp IC? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26c6b4ae574ca1f2?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Running a PC outside of a computer case
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/767389e3dda5bc79?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:02 am
From: D


On 3/20/2011 9:31 PM, stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:

>
> I've built a few dozen PCs over the years. I would never bother
> running the system out of the case. Mine nearly always work fine ( one
> exception ) and then you'll have to unplug and mount it anyway and
> plug together again. You're more likely to screw it up OUT of the case
> so why take the chance and waste the time? BTW the case / power supply
> I'm using now - the wife's machine - is on its 4th motherboard. The
> latest change 2 weeks back took an hour - so short because the old and
> new boards are nearly identical and didn't require any re-installation
> of the software. The newer board can use the higher power/speed Phenom
> II processor now in it.
>
> G²

I rely quite heavily on my PC on a daily basis, and don't really want to
be without a functional machine. In order to load the OS & see if
everything is operable, I only need to connect 1 HDD, 1 DVD drive, the
vid card & monitor, keyboard, mouse & PSU. The only bit I'll need from
the existing machine is the vid card, an easy R&R in either direction.
No big deal, and if there is a problem, a DOA component, perhaps, it's a
lot less trouble finding out this way and dealing with getting a
replacement than removing the new board & completely reassembling my
working unit so I have it in the meantime.


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:06 am
From: D


On 3/20/2011 7:38 PM, Grant wrote:
> On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 14:54:26 -0700, D<none@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I've built one computer, and will soon be building another. I would
>> like to initially set up& test this new machine on the bench, outside
>> of a computer case (simply connecting the PSU, etc., w/o all the bits
>> being in a case). Seems straightforward, but I have a couple questions.
>> First, am I correct that the front panel on/off switch generally used
>> to start the PC is simply a momentary contact switch that briefly
>> connects the "PW+" and "PW-" terminals on the MOBO? Same with the
>> reset/reboot switch function, using "res+" and "RES-"? Also, is it
>> necessary to run a ground wire between the PSU case, and one of the MOBO
>> pads where the screws go to attach the MOBO to the case when installed?
>> Since the metal case would "ground" these 2 together, I was wondering.
>> If this is required, should all metal cases (HDD, DVD drive, etc) be
>> so "grounded together"?
>>
>> Any other helpful points about running a PC on the bench this way would
>> be greatly appreciated.
>
> I do temporary lashups like that to test gear, need to put the mobo on a
> book or something non-conducting to raise the edge where NIC and display
> cards go. Don't need extra grounds. The power is momentary contact, low
> voltage, shorting out the connectors in that area shouldn't do a damage as
> they're either switch inputs or current limited LED outputs.
>
> Put the hard drive where you wont bump it, probably on top of the optical
> drive. When in doubt, sticky tape stuff down. You want LEDs in the power
> and HD positions to get an idea what's happening. Speaker too, for the
> beeps. Pair of momentary switches or wires for power and reset... I keep
> an old switch + LED harness from a discarded case around for controlling a
> bare mobo.
>
> Grant.

Thanks Grant, good tips ;-)

Dan


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:58 pm
From: whit3rd


On Monday, March 21, 2011 1:02:39 AM UTC-7, D wrote:
> On 3/20/2011 9:31 PM, stra...@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >
> > I've built a few dozen PCs over the years. I would never bother
> > running the system out of the case.

> I rely quite heavily on my PC on a daily basis, and don't really want to
> be without a functional machine. In order to load the OS & see if
> everything is operable, I only need to connect 1 HDD, 1 DVD drive, the
> vid card & monitor, keyboard, mouse & PSU. The only bit I'll need from
> the existing machine is the vid card

So, you have a spare PS but not a spare video card or case?
All you need to verify motherboard function is keyboard and video
card and power supply; if you can boot and set up BIOS functions,
it's a good motherboard/RAM. All the rest can wait until you
put the beast together; I'd hate to have loose HD and such all
cluttering up a workbench.

If you're reusing the old case, the connection of frontpanel buttons
may be the biggest part of the install (and you CAN'T have the
old machine up and running for that, anyway).

==============================================================================
TOPIC: MBOX
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0825a0aef2635ff9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:22 am
From: "N_Cook"


There are threads out there on MBOX noise problems and caps.
Putting 2,000uF,10V across the USB supply seems to near enough cure it, is
that permissable, wrt USB spcifications? nonly a measly 10uF or so there as
far as I can see.
There are 4 LDO regs MIC5205B, topmarked LBAA, 3 hold their outputs but one
varies 30mV timed with the hash variation, Putting the cap there makes a
vast improvement but not quite up to the main supply smoothing. Will try
tracing all caps to that reg and replace them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Oral-b Braun electronic toothbrush problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/49caca46fe47e846?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:24 am
From: Fardeen


It's very troublesome that when my electronic toothbrush isn't working
which is of Oral-b Braun.

My little brother twisted the tall tower like thing of the toothbrush
and it stopped working. I'm hoping someone to reply to my problem with
a solution.


== 2 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:52 am
From: "N_Cook"


Fardeen <rjones892@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8b4f368e-38f8-4f61-a10f-64f77ae02d63@a28g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
> It's very troublesome that when my electronic toothbrush isn't working
> which is of Oral-b Braun.
>
> My little brother twisted the tall tower like thing of the toothbrush
> and it stopped working. I'm hoping someone to reply to my problem with
> a solution.


Make sure he does not take to eating spinach


== 3 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 1:57 am
From: Sylvia Else


On 21/03/2011 7:24 PM, Fardeen wrote:
> It's very troublesome that when my electronic toothbrush isn't working
> which is of Oral-b Braun.
>
> My little brother twisted the tall tower like thing of the toothbrush
> and it stopped working. I'm hoping someone to reply to my problem with
> a solution.

Buy a new one.

Getting these things apart undamaged is an art. Getting them back
together in working condition is something else.

Sylvia.


== 4 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 6:39 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"


Per Sylvia Else:
>Buy a new one.

But be prepared for some sticker shock.

The one I had (that just went South couple days ago) cost less
than 15 USD a couple of years ago.

The cheapest Oral-B I could find retail around here was close to
eighty dollars.

Finally wound up paying $100 for a two-pack of "Professional
1000" models at Sam's Club - figuring that the extra twenty was
well spent against the day when one failed again.

I'm thinking all this is some kind of marketing ploy by Oral-B,
since Colgate offers electric toothbrushes at under $10 - albeit
not with the reciprocating action of the Oral-B.
--
PeteCresswell


== 5 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 6:48 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> But be prepared for some sticker shock.

> The one I had (that just went South couple days ago) cost less
> than 15 USD a couple of years ago.

> The cheapest Oral-B I could find retail around here was close to
> eighty dollars.

> Finally wound up paying $100 for a two-pack of "Professional
> 1000" models at Sam's Club - figuring that the extra twenty was
> well spent against the day when one failed again.

> I'm thinking all this is some kind of marketing ploy by Oral-B,
> since Colgate offers electric toothbrushes at under $10 - albeit
> not with the reciprocating action of the Oral-B.

The expensive Oral-B is rechargeable, the Colgate (et alia) are not. Hence
the price difference.

What's despicable is that Oral-B and Philips (Sonicare) provide no way of
exchanging the batteries. Once they fail, the unit becomes yet more
electro-mechanical trash.

Before anyone responds... Yes, I'm aware how difficult it would be to make
the units water-tight.


== 6 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 7:04 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


William Sommerwerck wrote:
> The expensive Oral-B is rechargeable, the Colgate (et alia) are not. Hence
> the price difference.

They are almost impossible to use rechargable batteries. My teenage son's
one has had the last 6 or so sets of batteries replaced because they got wet
and damaged instead of "running out of juice".

I'm sure if he were careful, they would be kept dry and last longer, but he's
a teenager, I'm just glad he brushes his teeth. :-)

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.


== 7 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 7:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> They are almost impossible to use rechargable batteries. My
> teenage son's one has had the last 6 or so sets of batteries
> replaced because they got wet and damaged instead of
> "running out of juice".

That's interesting. Why do you think rechargeables are so "susceptible"?


== 8 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 7:59 am
From: Meat Plow


On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 06:48:59 -0700, William Sommerwerck wrote:

>> But be prepared for some sticker shock.
>
>> The one I had (that just went South couple days ago) cost less than 15
>> USD a couple of years ago.
>
>> The cheapest Oral-B I could find retail around here was close to eighty
>> dollars.
>
>> Finally wound up paying $100 for a two-pack of "Professional 1000"
>> models at Sam's Club - figuring that the extra twenty was well spent
>> against the day when one failed again.
>
>> I'm thinking all this is some kind of marketing ploy by Oral-B, since
>> Colgate offers electric toothbrushes at under $10 - albeit not with the
>> reciprocating action of the Oral-B.
>
> The expensive Oral-B is rechargeable, the Colgate (et alia) are not.
> Hence the price difference.
>
> What's despicable is that Oral-B and Philips (Sonicare) provide no way
> of exchanging the batteries. Once they fail, the unit becomes yet more
> electro-mechanical trash.
>
> Before anyone responds... Yes, I'm aware how difficult it would be to
> make the units water-tight.

I have both Oral and Philips. Both are at least 10 years old and there is
no noticeable decrease in runtime. I'd say i got my money's worth so far.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse


== 9 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 8:44 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


William Sommerwerck wrote:

> That's interesting. Why do you think rechargeables are so "susceptible"?

Sorry, I meant that any batteries were destroyed in about a week beyond
use, long before they wore out, so replacing them with rechargables would
not be worth it because they would be ruined long before they would be ready
for recharging.

Come to think of it, if I made up a pack that was sealed on the bottom,
it should work. It would keep the bottoms dry so they would not corrode
from the water.

Thanks,

Geoff.


--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.


== 10 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 8:57 am
From: Jeffrey Angus


Ya know, if you ask your dentist, he'll _give_ you a free toothbrush.

Jeff


== 11 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 9:35 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> Ya know, if you ask your dentist, he'll _give_ you a free toothbrush.

True, but it's not electric.

I've used the Sonicare for over a decade, and would never go back to a
manual toothbrush. It simply does a much better job.

Consumer Reports claims that a manual brush is /the/ best way to clean your
teeth and gums. If so, I don't know how to properly use one.


== 12 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 9:36 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> I have both Oral-B and Philips. Both are at least 10 years old and there
is
> no noticeable decrease in runtime. I'd say i got my money's worth so far.

You've said this before. My Sonicares have lasted from two to four years.
And that's buying them in pairs at Costco.

You must be recharging them in a way I am not. How often do you drop them
back on the charger?


== 13 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 10:42 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"


Per William Sommerwerck:
>I've used the Sonicare for over a decade, and would never go back to a
>manual toothbrush. It simply does a much better job.
>
>Consumer Reports claims that a manual brush is /the/ best way to clean your
>teeth and gums. If so, I don't know how to properly use one.

I never used an electric until about 10 years ago when my dentist
recommended them.

Up 'till then, I'd managed to scrub much of the enamel off of my
teeth by brushing too hard.

Since, there seems to have been no additional loss of enamel.
Also the ladies who do the cleaning at check-up time have
commented on how clean my teeth look.

I suspect that, in the end, it comes down to technique... but I
don't have it and the electric compensates.
--
PeteCresswell


== 14 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 10:45 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"


Per William Sommerwerck:
>You've said this before. My Sonicares have lasted from two to four years.
>And that's buying them in pairs at Costco.
>
>You must be recharging them in a way I am not. How often do you drop them
>back on the charger?

In the instructions for my Oral-B's, there is an admonition to
totally drain the battery and then recharge: every six months for
the "1000"s that I just bought and monthly for the "Vitality"
that recently died.
--
PeteCresswell


== 15 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 11:38 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:42:36 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>
wrote:

>Up 'till then, I'd managed to scrub much of the enamel off of my
>teeth by brushing too hard.

That's not the brush. It's the abrasive tooth paste. I used to use
tooth paste to "grind" radio crystals. If it will grind glass, it
will do the same to your teeth. Use baking soda, or like I do just
water. Incidentally, I haven't used tooth paste for the last 40+
years and still have all of my teeth except for one root canal.
Literally all the dental problems I've had were from undermined
fillings.

For a possible fix, there's also nano-particle enamel restorer.
<http://kandaka.com/2006/12/07/nanoparticle-toothpaste-restores-enamel/>
No clue if it works. It's been around for about 6 years so there
should be some reports available.

The one redeeming value of a motorized toothbrush is that it's great
for "stimulating" the gums. While tooth decay is a bummer, having a
perfectly good tooth fall out because the gum rotted out under it, is
even worse. Most people are too lazy to run the tooth brush over
their gums, but a motorized brush makes it easy and quick. If your
gums bleed when you brush, you're doing it wrong.

I bought some of the Oral-B throw away motorized toothbrushes to try
them out. Three for $15 at Costco. I think they're discontinued and
have been replaced by the ones that have a replacable battery. I'm
waiting for the battery to run down so I can tear it apart and see
what's inside. Maybe in a month or three.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 16 of 16 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 2:06 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


>> You've said this before. My Sonicares have lasted from
>> two to four years.And that's buying them in pairs at Costco.

>> You must be recharging them in a way I am not. How often
>> do you drop them back on the charger?

> In the instructions for my Oral-B's, there is an admonition to
> totally drain the battery and then recharge: every six months for
> the "1000"s that I just bought and monthly for the "Vitality"
> that recently died.

That assumes the user recharges after every use, presumably creating a
"memory".

I tend to run my Oral-Bs down before recharging them. It's the Sonicares
that have had a seemingly too-short life.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Recommendation for electronics forums?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a2a97ca7806d8277?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 4:59 am
From: JW


On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 00:16:07 -0400 "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in Message id:
<z5idnSkllaUR4hjQnZ2dnUVZ_rudnZ2d@earthlink.com>:

>
>Smitty Two wrote:
>>
>> In article <4d854cd2$0$2434$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
>> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>>
>> > The subject of my current research is the ins and
>> > outs of op amps.
>>
>> A little pun, there?
>
>
> A bit bipolar, if you ask me...

I dunno, but then again I may be biased.


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 8:30 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

JW wrote:
>
> On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 00:16:07 -0400 "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in Message id:
> <z5idnSkllaUR4hjQnZ2dnUVZ_rudnZ2d@earthlink.com>:
>
> >
> >Smitty Two wrote:
> >>
> >> In article <4d854cd2$0$2434$822641b3@news.adtechcomputers.com>,
> >> David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> >>
> >> > The subject of my current research is the ins and
> >> > outs of op amps.
> >>
> >> A little pun, there?
> >
> > A bit bipolar, if you ask me...
>
> I dunno, but then again I may be biased.


I figured that you were a little off center. :)


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DATING WITH GIRLS - HOT SEXY VIDEOS - CHATTING HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c9d14f17d904116?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: XXX HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ebea51ab4a489608?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: SOUTH ACTRESS HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/939a2c2b61907b4d?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fake Audio Amp IC?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26c6b4ae574ca1f2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Mar 21 2011 2:08 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"


Hi,

I recently replaced the STK amplifier module in a Genelec speaker. These
STK modules are not easy to find, but I did find one on the net, delivered
from the far east, which was a quarter of the price of the official spares
supplier here in the UK (HHB). I informed the customer prior to order, and
he was happy to take the much cheaper part.

Anyway it lasted 1 day before failing short circuit. Fortunately the
drivers are not damaged.


There are photos here:
http://postimage.org/image/1gb2ui0lg/
http://postimage.org/image/2p2rdrs9w/


The new looking part is a new part subsequently ordered from HHB. The old
one with the mangled legs is the cheap failed device.

Is anyone able to tell whether this might or might not be fake?


Cheers,

Gareth.

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