sci.electronics.repair - 15 new messages in 7 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Toshiba Satellite Pro M15-S405 PCB flux rot - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5f474e30d60254b9?hl=en
* Lead free solder - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
* Annoying Clock on Microwave - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/408849711f765a28?hl=en
* Denon DN-A7100 surround preamp - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d516c552e831ed?hl=en
* HOT ACTRESS - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3a591af617acc37?hl=en
* Use A Motorcycle To Spark Up A Relationship! - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/68c95bb8d8361971?hl=en
* 42" Panasonic plasma TV model: TH-42PX60U dead - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8e947a6771af994?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toshiba Satellite Pro M15-S405 PCB flux rot
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5f474e30d60254b9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 4:46 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


Here's one I haven't seen before:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/toshiba-rot-02.jpg>
It's the motherboard from a Toshiba Satellite Pro M15-S405 laptop. The
brown crud is probably flux left over from the soldering operation or
something corrosive, that was trapped between the PCB and a thin
plastic "protective" covering under the DVD drive. The board acts
totally dead. No power, no charge lite, no sounds, no nothing. At
first, I thought that someone had spilled some liquid into the laptop.
Nope, because all the corrosion is BETWEEN the PCB and the plastic,
with nothing on top of the plastic. The plastic covering was totally
clean. There's no corrosion in the area that's NOT under the
"protective" covering, so it seems whatever did the damage, was
volatile.

The customer has 3 other identical laptops. I just inspected them
(through the DVD slot), and found no corrosion.

I'm not sure I'll be able to fix this one as the rotted traces in this
area are very tiny. It's probably not worth the effort for a 9 year
old laptop.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 4:54 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Fri, 22 Apr 2011 16:46:23 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

>Here's one I haven't seen before:
><http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/toshiba-rot-02.jpg>

One more photo:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/toshiba-rot-03.jpg>

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 9:09 pm
From: spamtrap1888


On Apr 22, 4:46 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

>  At
> first, I thought that someone had spilled some liquid into the laptop.
> Nope, because all the corrosion is BETWEEN the PCB and the plastic,
> with nothing on top of the plastic.  The plastic covering was totally
> clean.

Liquid might have landed on the PCB but then wicked between the
plastic sheet and the PCB, where surface tension held it in place.


> There's no corrosion in the area that's NOT under the
> "protective" covering, so it seems whatever did the damage, was
> volatile.

The surface area of any trapped liquid is relatively tiny.

>
> The customer has 3 other identical laptops.  I just inspected them
> (through the DVD slot), and found no corrosion.  
>
> I'm not sure I'll be able to fix this one as the rotted traces in this
> area are very tiny.  It's probably not worth the effort for a 9 year
> old laptop.

The corrosion is not bridging the traces? Is the corrosion conductive?


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 9:24 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Fri, 22 Apr 2011 21:09:14 -0700 (PDT), spamtrap1888
<spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Apr 22, 4:46�pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>
>> �At
>> first, I thought that someone had spilled some liquid into the laptop.
>> Nope, because all the corrosion is BETWEEN the PCB and the plastic,
>> with nothing on top of the plastic. �The plastic covering was totally
>> clean.
>
>Liquid might have landed on the PCB but then wicked between the
>plastic sheet and the PCB, where surface tension held it in place.

Nope. Look at the photos. Most of the rot is in isolated patches
with no fluid connections to the edge. Also, the "protective" plastic
sheet has some kind of glue smeared on one side, covering the entire
area. It will take considerable effort to remove it. I don't think
anything can creep underneath (including capillary action).

>>�There's no corrosion in the area that's NOT under the
>> "protective" covering, so it seems whatever did the damage, was
>> volatile.
>
>The surface area of any trapped liquid is relatively tiny.

True. It also took years for the stuff to finally eat away the
copper. Mostly, it ate the areas around the PCB vias (holes), which
again points to something during manufacture. Probably a tiny amount.
Were it not for the "protective" plastic trapping the stuff, it would
have probably evaporated away.

>> The customer has 3 other identical laptops. �I just inspected them
>> (through the DVD slot), and found no corrosion. �
>>
>> I'm not sure I'll be able to fix this one as the rotted traces in this
>> area are very tiny. �It's probably not worth the effort for a 9 year
>> old laptop.

>The corrosion is not bridging the traces? Is the corrosion conductive?

I can't tell yet. It's definately eating away the traces because the
failure is lack of on/off and lack of charging (so far). Bridging
would cause other problems. Incidentally, I checked all the fuses and
power buses. They're fine.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lead free solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 5:08 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"mike" <spamme9@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:iosprs$2qq$1@dont-email.me...
> Phil Allison wrote:
>> "mike"
>> Phil Allison wrote:
>>>> "Charles"
>>>>> Has this had any impact on repair and rework of electronic devices and
>>>>> equipment?
>>>> ** The amount of work has increased.
>>>>
>>>> Pb free solder is often brittle and cracks easily under thermal
>>>> cycling, stress or vibrations.
>>>>
>>>> Standard procedure round here is to remove it with wick and use some
>>>> real 60/40 Savbit solder to make the repair.
>>>>
>>> Arent't there some legal issues with that?
>>
>>
>> **You tell us - fuckhead
>>
>> But round here = Australia where the RoHS directive is not law.
>>
>> Nor is it law in Japan, North America and most places.
>>
>> And would not give a shit if it was.
>>
>>
>> .... Phil
>
> Well....
> I found this:
> Begin quote
> . I don't know whereabouts in the world you
> are, but across Europe, strictly speaking, it is actually illegal to use
> leaded solder, or non RoHS components, to repair anything manufactured in
> lead-free after implementation of the RoHS directive, which was June 2006
> (I
> think) in the UK.
> end quote.
>

I think that's one of mine ...

Arfa

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 11:08 pm
From: "Phil Allison"


" Meat Plow is a MORONIC FUCKHEAD "


** The simple truth.


.... Phil


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 11:13 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"mike the moron "
>>
>> Standard procedure round here is to remove it with wick and use some real
>>>> 60/40 Savbit solder to make the repair.
>>>>
>>> Arent't there some legal issues with that?
>>
>>
>> **You tell us - fuckhead
>>
>> But round here = Australia where the RoHS directive is not law.
>>
>> Nor is it law in Japan, North America and most places.
>>
>> And I would not give a shit if it was.
>>
>
> Well....
> I found this:

** Totally asinine to post an unidentified quote.

How like you.

> I give the above quote more credence..

** It says nothing different to my post.

I live in Sydney, Australia you know.


> Note that I didn't ask if YOU cared. I asked if there were issues.

** I were given a precise, detailed reply that when right over your pointy
head.

Piss off TROLL.

.... Phil


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 11:17 pm
From: "Phil Allison"


"Arfa Daily"

>> I don't know whereabouts in the world you
>> are, but across Europe, strictly speaking, it is actually illegal to use
>> leaded solder, or non RoHS components, to repair anything manufactured in
>> lead-free after implementation of the RoHS directive, which was June 2006
>> (I
>> think) in the UK.
>
> I think that's one of mine ...


** Find me one example of a person being successfully prosecuted over it.

There is virtually no way to get caught, no easy way for outsiders to know
and nobody gives a shit.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Annoying Clock on Microwave
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/408849711f765a28?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 5:29 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> Some years back our group designed a micro controller
> project that used AC line zero cross for phase triggering.

Did it work by looking for a polarity change, or near-zero voltage? If the
latter, line noise might cause it to miss some zero crossings, and the clock
would run slow.


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 10:27 pm
From: John Tserkezis


jeff_wisnia wrote:

> I'm shocked, shocked, that the clock isn't synced to the 120 volt 60 Hz
> power the unit runs on, like every other line powered appliance with a
> digital TOD display I own.

> The only reason I can guess for the poor timekeeping is that the
> circuitry/board running the clock is used on their 220 volt 50 Hz
> versions without modification, so the makers decided not to use line
> sync for the clock, and probably didn't want to spring for a crystal
> oscillator either, so used an RC one instead.

I don't think this is a 50/60Hz issue. From the error rate you
describe, it should run faster not slower, and by a larger margin too.

Regardless, locking your clock to mains is not always a great idea.
Some areas are just plain wrong. I have a mains locked clock here that
loses a minute every week or so.
I have cheap non temperature compensated crystal locked clocks that are
by far superior to that.

The answer is worse than that.

The clocks are built to a price, the cheapest possible price.

Consider this: A microwave oven doesn't need a clock at all, just a
timekeeper for timed cooking. Accuracy is not a priority here at all.
The fact they have clocks at all means the manufacturers wanted to get
one leg up on the competitors without expending any money.

We're not talking cameras in cellphones here, there is NO reason for
them to make their clocks accurate, because non of the competition are
going to bother either.
--
To err is human. To moo bovine


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 23 2011 12:46 am
From: Adrian C


On 22/04/2011 18:35, jeff_wisnia wrote:
>
> From my "I can't believe they'd make it this way" list.
>
> Last year I purchased a new Westinghouse Model WST-3501 microwave oven
> for our office lunchroom.
>
> It heats and cooks things fine, but has one lousy feature which I can't
> avoid noticing and which irks me very time I see it.
>
> The TOD, which is displayed whenever the unit is on standby, loses about
> two minutes a day, and has to be reset every few days to keep from
> falling ridiculously behind.
>
> I'm shocked, shocked, that the clock isn't synced to the 120 volt 60 Hz
> power the unit runs on, like every other line powered appliance with a
> digital TOD display I own.
>
> The only reason I can guess for the poor timekeeping is that the
> circuitry/board running the clock is used on their 220 volt 50 Hz
> versions without modification, so the makers decided not to use line
> sync for the clock, and probably didn't want to spring for a crystal
> oscillator either, so used an RC one instead.
>
> I tried emailing Westinghouse about this and they fobbed me off to a
> subsidiary who couldn't even bother to respond to an email.
>
> Thanks for reading. Anyone got any other ideas about why the stupid
> clock in this microwave loses time?

Probably the clock is line sync'd, and then when cooking, is magnetron
supply sync'd - as critically voltage is lost at the connection point
where the clock takes its time period sample.

Try not cooking for a day and see if that fixes the time loss, then try
using a shorter or heavier cable for the line connection?

--
Adrian C


==============================================================================
TOPIC: Denon DN-A7100 surround preamp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d516c552e831ed?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Apr 22 2011 6:54 pm
From: Tim Schwartz


Hello all,

I've got a Denon DN-A7100 which came in with a complaint of the front
panel volume control (rotary encoder) not working, but volume on the
remote OK. I initially traced it don to no +5V on the encoder when, OH
JOY, it fixed itself.

Anyone seen this problem on this model before? Anyone have an
e-mailable schematic?

Thanks!
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOT ACTRESS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3a591af617acc37?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Use A Motorcycle To Spark Up A Relationship!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/68c95bb8d8361971?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 23 2011 12:26 am
From: Tim


Methinks the sparks are shooting in the wrong direction. The top of the
tire would be turning towards the front of the bike, so the sparks would
be coming out the front, not the back.

Unless of course they would going backwards!

- Tim -

In article <ng2pq6pvn9bmtik7a2l01bmaval2nbdfu7@4ax.com>, asdf@aol.com
says...
> This will heat things up!
>
> http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2011/04/spark-it-up/
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 42" Panasonic plasma TV model: TH-42PX60U dead
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8e947a6771af994?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Apr 23 2011 12:42 am
From: "N_Cook"


Sidney <sidneybek@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:27a07052-b46d-4014-a154-f6e827f81265@a19g2000prj.googlegroups.com...
42" Panasonic plasma TV model: TH-42PX60U, year: Nov 2006, no power,
no blinking or standby LED lights. The TV was on while this happened.
Upon troubleshooting I discovered F401=8 amp ceramic time lag fuse to
be open. From extensive googling after no obvious shorts in power
supply using Fluke DMM model 29 series II. I found the following
common repair tips:

Q406=N-ch MOSFET # RJK5020=Panasonic # B1DEKQ000003=shorted
R410=10 ohm, 5w ceramic thermal cut off=Panasonic # D1F5100E0003=open
F401 & F402=8 amp ceramic time lag fuse= Panasonic # K5D802BNA005= one
or the other open

well on this TV none of the above parts are defective except F401.
According to a Panasonic service bulletin for a similar model:

http://www.tvrepairtips.org/files/tip/286/tt-08-27.pdf

they say to add a C426=ECQB1H103JZ but on that bulletin it's if Q406
is shorted but not on mine and the board on the service bulletin is
somewhat different than mine. I haven't yet replaced F401 or placed a
100 watt light bulb in place. But would like some tips before I
proceed. Thanks.

Sidney® ™
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
Canada

http://web.archive.org/web/20040312120415/www.herald.ns.ca/cgi-bin/home/disp
layphoto?2002/12/22+126.raw+1019+Business+

http://web.archive.org/web/20040229023255/http://www.herald.ns.ca/cgi-bin/ho
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http://groups.google.com/group/hfx.forsale/browse_thread/thread/43940ce83231
ab85/4e4c696fbf04837f?q=sidney+tv+repair&rnum=1#4e4c696fbf04837f

http://www.nesda-ohio.com/iwaynet/pubhtml/May02/May18.html
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http://www.nesda-ohio.com/iwaynet/pubhtml/Oct02/Oct028.html
http://www.nesda-ohio.com/iwaynet/pubhtml/Oct02/Oct029.html

++++


open up the fuse and see if it failed gently (probably just getting tired in
old age) or catastrophically so something else failing caused it to fail

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1 Response to sci.electronics.repair - 15 new messages in 7 topics - digest

March 2, 2020 at 2:31 AM

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