sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Foregoing warranty rights - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db33289fb500ca5c?hl=en
* What causes this kind of failure in a CRT monitor? - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/42b09cf82a8a222c?hl=en
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/82e191dc39d11251?hl=en
* Underwater Strobe Schematics (Sea & Sea YS-27DX) - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1b70462f9a3c462d?hl=en
* DTV question [minor] - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8b62bf63e76e1c5?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Foregoing warranty rights
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db33289fb500ca5c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 5:05 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> What I'm hoping for, of course, is some kewl effect, like
> that purplish glow you sometimes see emanating from
> the plates of overdriven tubes...

Unfortunately, there's no gas in a "vacuum" tube to glow.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 5:08 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:8vsfiqFm16U1@mid.individual.net...

> "William Sommerwanker is a lying ASS"

>>> Why is it that no maker ever gives advice on what to do
>>> if your pocket digital wonder gets accidentally immersed
>>> or suffers a spillage?

>> It's common knowledge in the electronics industry...

> ** How would a bullshitting puke like you know anything of the sort ?

>> that if the "soiled" item
>> is thoroughly flushed in/with distilled water, then allowed to dry (or
>> forcibly dried), it will often recover. If the manufacturer advises the
>> consumer to do this, and the device remains dead, the manufacturer
>> could find itself liable for a free replacement.

> ** Total BOLLOCKS.

Phil... SHUT UP.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 6:37 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker is a lying ASS"
>
>>>> Why is it that no maker ever gives advice on what to do
>>>> if your pocket digital wonder gets accidentally immersed
>>>> or suffers a spillage?
>
>>> It's common knowledge in the electronics industry...
>
>> ** How would a bullshitting puke like you know anything of the sort ?
>
>>> that if the "soiled" item
>>> is thoroughly flushed in/with distilled water, then allowed to dry (or
>>> forcibly dried), it will often recover. If the manufacturer advises the
>>> consumer to do this, and the device remains dead, the manufacturer
>>> could find itself liable for a free replacement.
>
>> ** Total BOLLOCKS.
>
> Phil... SHUT UP.

** Fuck off and die you vile TROLLING pig.

.... Phil
>
>

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 8:09 pm
From: David Nebenzahl

On 4/3/2011 5:05 PM William Sommerwerck spake thus:

>> What I'm hoping for, of course, is some kewl effect, like
>> that purplish glow you sometimes see emanating from
>> the plates of overdriven tubes...
>
> Unfortunately, there's no gas in a "vacuum" tube to glow.

So where does that purplish glow come from? I've seen it.

--
The current state of literacy in our advanced civilization:

yo
wassup
nuttin
wan2 hang
k
where
here
k
l8tr
by

- from Usenet (what's *that*?)

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 7:25 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"David Nebenzahl"
>
>>> What I'm hoping for, of course, is some kewl effect, like
>>> that purplish glow you sometimes see emanating from
>>> the plates of overdriven tubes...
>>
>> Unfortunately, there's no gas in a "vacuum" tube to glow.
>
> So where does that purplish glow come from? I've seen it.
>

** The blue/ purple glow is emanating from " impurities" in the glass - it
is generated by electrons hitting the glass at high speed.

Most audio power tubes (ie 6L6GCs, EL34s, EL84s and 6550s ) have cut outs
in the plate structures that allow this to happen.

The blue glow will be there when the tube is new ( if it's there at all )
and is not a sign of a problem.

It may be fairly steady or respond to high drive levels - ie when the
plate voltage nearly doubles in magnitude with signal peaks.

.... Phil

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 7:34 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 20:09:10 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:

>So where does that purplish glow come from? I've seen it.

Impurities in the glass envelope or gas in the tube.

If gas, take an anti-acid tablet and you should be fine in a few
minutes.

<http://www.vacuumtubes.net/How_Vacuum_Tubes_Work.htm>
Scroll down to:
C. Blue Glow -- what causes it?
for more details.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What causes this kind of failure in a CRT monitor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/42b09cf82a8a222c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 5:20 pm
From: Jamie

Slater wrote:

> Hello, I have a Commodore 15KHz monitor that I tried to use as a TV
> set by attaching it to my decoder through a SCART lead. It worked
> perfectly for a while, then it started doing this:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaP2Bv5nCaQ
> It hadn't been used for many months or maybe years.
> What happened?
take it apart, clean out the dust in it for one thing.

That looks like HV leaking somewhere. You may also have some
cracked insulation in the Anode lead or flyback coil. You could
even have a cracked solder joint or moisture in it.

Jamie

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 5:17 pm
From: nontelo@dico.no (Slater)

Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

>That looks like HV leaking somewhere. You may also have some
>cracked insulation in the Anode lead or flyback coil. You could
>even have a cracked solder joint or moisture in it.

Thank you very much for your advice. It's not doing that anymore. It
looks like some oxide or dirt is present in the vertical size
regulation knob, although I'm not 100% sure.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 5:35 pm
From: Jamie

Slater wrote:

> Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:
>
>
>>That looks like HV leaking somewhere. You may also have some
>>cracked insulation in the Anode lead or flyback coil. You could
>>even have a cracked solder joint or moisture in it.
>
>
> Thank you very much for your advice. It's not doing that anymore. It
> looks like some oxide or dirt is present in the vertical size
> regulation knob, although I'm not 100% sure.
That's another possibility.

Jamie

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TOPIC: Underwater Strobe Schematics (Sea & Sea YS-27DX)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1b70462f9a3c462d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 7:10 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 3 Apr 2011 14:08:37 -0700 (PDT), Chairman WAPSAC
<chairman.wpsac@gmail.com> wrote:

>I have a dead Sea & Sea YS-27DX strobe.

Manual:
<http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/strobe/ys27dx/manual_AEKR.pdf>
<www.seaandsea.com/PDF_manuals/YS27DX.pdf>
<http://www.seaandsea.jp/products/strobe/ys27dx/>

>The strobe flooded

Fooded with what? Salt or fresh water?
Have you cracked the case yet?
How are you testing it?
Have you tested the fiber optic trigger cable?
<http://www.seaandsea.jp/file_master/adownload/50107_1.pdf>
Have you tried using a different camera flash to trigger it?

If salt water, and it was sitting for more than a few days, my
guess(tm) is the damage is more likely corrosion than component
failure. Look for green coppper sulfate crud around the PC board,
components, and transformer windings. It might pay to wash the entire
mess in clean water (several times) to remove any ionic contaminants.
It doesn't take much salt crust on the PCB to short out the hi-voltage
inverter that runs the strobe.

>and subsequently let out all the smoke making the circuit work!.

Nope. Water incursion doesn't not produce any smoke.

>I appreciate that the damage may in fact be catastrophic but I'll
>have a go at fixing it anyway!

Assuming the worst case is often a safe position, but not in this
case. My very limited experience with marine electronics (9.5 years
at Intech Inc designing marine radios) indicates catastrophic damage
is usually accompanied by massive corrosion. More commonly, corrosion
damage rots out the PCB, which prevents power of reaching components,
resulting in a dead circuit. It's very rare for corrosioin to bridge
the few places where a circuit resistive leak would blow something up.
Again, look for corrosion or contamination.

>The problem is I don't have any schematics.

Real techs don't need no stinking schematics.

>Sea & Sea won't respond to my requests for schematics (no surprise
>there then). So I'm wondering if anyone has a schematic for this unit?

Perhaps if you had your request for a schematic written in Japanese?

No schematic, but plenty of similar devices here:
<http://members.misty.com/don/donflash.html>
<http://members.misty.com/don/samflash.html>
Also, if there are any US patents on the device, they can be found at:
<http://www.google.com/patents/>

Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 4 2011 12:14 am
From: "N_Cook"

Chairman WAPSAC <chairman.wpsac@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:871a7c6b-b597-48bb-833e-445b6149e4c6@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com
...
> I'm hoping someone can help here.
>
> I have a dead Sea & Sea YS-27DX strobe. The strobe flooded and
subsequently let out all the smoke making the circuit work!. I appreciate
that the damage may in fact be catastrophic but I'll have a go at fixing it
anyway!
>
> The problem is I don't have any schematics. Sea & Sea won't respond to my
requests for schematics (no surprise there then). So I'm wondering if anyone
has a schematic for this unit?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ian

Don't know about flooding aspect. But inspect the bakelite of the socket
between the pins of the lamp, can break down from heat and volts and
generate smoke.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DTV question [minor]
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8b62bf63e76e1c5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 7:15 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 15:50:12 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens> wrote:

>Then a couple days after that I got a reply back. The station's
>operations manager wrote and told me that they (the station) was
>supplying that information, and therefore if I wasn't seeing it, it was
>probably due to a problem at my end. He suggested doing a complete
>rescan (not an "update scan") on my DTV box.

That's probably a good idea. However, you can identify the culprit by
simply checking for data presence on a different TV set (or at a local
store). If none of the TV's see data from this station, then it's
their problem. If only your TV lacks data, it's your problem.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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TOPIC: Need help finding/ordering part
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc9a03cc9eeb828c?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 9:06 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Sun, 03 Apr 2011 16:30:48 -0400, tnom@mucks.net put finger to
keyboard and composed:

>I'm trying to repair a IR remote receiver. Have found what could be
>the problem. Will replace two front end transistors.
>
>The markings are a follows: TO 92 case, "KSP" top line, "10" second
>line, "-238" bottom line, or perhaps KSP10-238 ?

KSP10 NPN Epitaxial Silicon Transistor:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/KS/KSP10.pdf

The datasheet is dated September 2002, so the "238" could be a YWW
(Year / Week) data code. Are there similar date codes on the other
components?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

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TOPIC: Recommendation for electronics forums?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a2a97ca7806d8277?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Apr 3 2011 11:44 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Wiebe Cazemier wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> >
> > Wiebe Cazemier wrote:
> >>
> >> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> > The subject of my current research is the ins and
> >> >> >> >> > outs of op amps.
> >> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> >> A little pun, there?
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > A bit bipolar, if you ask me...
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> I dunno, but then again I may be biased.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> > I figured that you were a little off center. :)
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> Now that's unfair feedback :)
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Not if you're at unity gain... :)
> >>
> >> But then you'll run into oscillation
> >
> >
> > Everyone needs to exercise. :)
>
> To obtain a higher slew-rate?

Or just to keep from rusting, in place. :)

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid� on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Apr 4 2011 12:23 am
From: Andrew xu

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