sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old style filament lamps?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b70a4142ec9c2ec?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 12:19 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Terry Pinnell"

> Does anyone know where I can buy 'normal' filament lamp bulbs in the UK
> please? I just cannot get on with the new economy type. My remaining stock
> of 60W and 100W is dwindling rapidly.

** AFAIK- even if you came across a stock it is illegal now for anyone to
sell them to you.

Have a look for the high efficiency halogen bulbs that are made in the same
style as regular BC and ES 40 watt and 60 watt bulbs. Rated at 2000 hours
and bit whiter light but rather more expensive.

Legally on sale all over Australia, but not sure about the UK.

..... Phil

== 2 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 1:42 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Terry Pinnell" <terrypingm@DELETEgmail.com> wrote in message
news:v22ir6tkftirp75f6ipptnquot1c2p12h1@4ax.com...
> (Re-posted from the lower traffic sci.electronics.misc group.)
>
> Does anyone know where I can buy 'normal' filament lamp bulbs in the UK
> please? I just cannot get on with the new economy type. My remaining stock
> of 60W and 100W is dwindling rapidly.
>
> --
> Terry, East Grinstead, UK

You, and many others, including this +1, I'm afraid, Terry ... :-(

I just looked on my favourite lamp buying site in the UK, and they don't
appear to do any standard lightbulbs except ecobollox types at all now. Even
the halogen ones that Phil mentions, now don't seem to be available. I have
one of those in my hallway, and it is superb. They are basically a halogen
capsule bulb, inside a 'standard' lightbulb. The one I have is a pearl type,
so nice even light, but I seem to recall someone saying that even those had
been made available only in a clear glass outer shell, and now it looks like
that has gone as well. It really pisses me off actually, that yet another
mature technology that gave good even and diffuse light - the whole reason
that that pearlisation of the envelope was introduced in the first place -
has now been forcibly replaced with an ecobollox product that doesn't hold a
candle (pun intended) to what it's replacing. I wouldn't mind if the end
justified the means. I read the other day that it has been calculated that
in the UK, if every single conventional lightbulb was changed for an
ecobollox type, all it would save is the output from one small power
station.

Arfa

== 3 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 2:50 am
From: adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham)

Terry Pinnell <terrypingm@DELETEgmail.com> wrote:

> (Re-posted from the lower traffic sci.electronics.misc group.)
>
> Does anyone know where I can buy 'normal' filament lamp bulbs in the UK
> please? I just cannot get on with the new economy type. My remaining stock
> of 60W and 100W is dwindling rapidly.

http://www.wrightshardware.co.uk/Eaccess.htm

--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk

== 4 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 3:24 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Adrian Tuddenham"

> http://www.wrightshardware.co.uk/Eaccess.htm

** Have you rung the phone number?

Does ma or pa Wright answer ??

Looks like a ghost web site to me.

.... Phil

== 5 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:47 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I just looked on my favourite lamp buying site in the UK, and they don't
> appear to do any standard lightbulbs except ecobollox types at all now.
Even
> the halogen ones that Phil mentions, now don't seem to be available. I
have
> one of those in my hallway, and it is superb. They are basically a halogen
> capsule bulb, inside a 'standard' lightbulb. The one I have is a pearl
type,
> so nice even light, but I seem to recall someone saying that even those
had
> been made available only in a clear glass outer shell, and now it looks
like
> that has gone as well. It really pisses me off actually, that yet another
> mature technology that gave good even and diffuse light - the whole reason
> that that pearlisation of the envelope was introduced in the first place -
> has now been forcibly replaced with an ecobollox product that doesn't hold
a
> candle (pun intended) to what it's replacing. I wouldn't mind if the end
> justified the means. I read the other day that it has been calculated that
> in the UK, if every single conventional lightbulb was changed for an
> ecobollox type, all it would save is the output from one small power
> station.

We're been through this before.

British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get excellent
ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than incandescent -- and have
good color balance.

I've replaced all but the miniature "decorative" lamps in my condo with
CFLs. I would never go back to incandescent.

I'm writing this in my den. The light is from a 100W-equivalent Home Depot
CFL in an IKEA shade. The /only/ way you can tell it's not incandescent is
by looking under the shade.

The bathroom has a 6-bulb "bar". The middle bulbs have been loosened so they
won't light, and the end bulbs replaced with CFLs. Yeah, it looks a bit
funny. Big deal.

== 6 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:55 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <ipbnl5$if2$1@dont-email.me>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get excellent
> ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than incandescent -- and have
> good color balance.

You buy CFLs that come on faster than an incandescent? Would like to see
a pic of the packaging so I know what to look for at HD. I'm just a tad
skeptical. Do you know the color temp?

== 7 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 6:53 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-E77428.05553828042011@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <ipbnl5$if2$1@dont-email.me>,
> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>> British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get
>> excellent ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than
>> incandescent -- and have good color balance.

> You buy CFLs that come on faster than an incandescent? Would
> like to see a pic of the packaging so I know what to look for at HD.
> I'm just a tad skeptical. Do you know the color temp?

I've been using Home Depot's store brand -- EcoSmart -- for several years.
Consumer Reports recently gave them a very high rating.

No color temp or rendering quality is specified. But the balance is on the
warm side. It's acceptable (in my opinion) for non-critical color
photography.

== 8 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:04 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

William Sommerwerck wrote:
> No color temp or rendering quality is specified. But the balance is on the
> warm side. It's acceptable (in my opinion) for non-critical color
> photography.

Similar ones are available here in Israel. I assume since we use the same
electrical system as the UK, they are available there too.

There are also cheap junk, but I avoid them.

BTW, I've been using them since the late 1990's and CFLs keep getting cheaper,
more efficient and on the whole better. They are not perfect, and we still use
incandescent bulbs in some places, but 99% of the light in my home is from
either CFLs or the old fashioned long ones.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 9 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:19 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnirisln.rrp.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...

> BTW, I've been using them since the late 1990's and CFLs keep
> getting cheaper, more efficient and on the whole better. They are
> not perfect, and we still use incandescent bulbs in some places,
> but 99% of the light in my home is from either CFLs or the old-
> fashioned long ones.

It's amazing that, despite their generally poor color rendering, tubular FLs
have long been tolerated in kitchens and workspaces.

== 10 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:48 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Apr 28, 5:47 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
wrote:
> > I just looked on my favourite lamp buying site in the UK, and they don't
> > appear to do any standard lightbulbs except ecobollox types at all now.
> Even
> > the halogen ones that Phil mentions, now don't seem to be available. I
> have
> > one of those in my hallway, and it is superb. They are basically a halogen
> > capsule bulb, inside a 'standard' lightbulb. The one I have is a pearl
> type,
> > so nice even light, but I seem to recall someone saying that even those
> had
> > been made available only in a clear glass outer shell, and now it looks
> like
> > that has gone as well. It really pisses me off actually, that yet another
> > mature technology that gave good even and diffuse light - the whole reason
> > that that pearlisation of the envelope was introduced in the first place -
> > has now been forcibly replaced with an ecobollox product that doesn't hold
> a
> > candle (pun intended) to what it's replacing. I wouldn't mind if the end
> > justified the means. I read the other day that it has been calculated that
> > in the UK, if every single conventional lightbulb was changed for an
> > ecobollox type, all it would save is the output from one small power
> > station.
>
> We're been through this before.
>
> British CFLs must be of very poor quality, because you can get excellent
> ones in the US. They come instantly -- faster than incandescent -- and have
> good color balance.

None that I can buy. In my double fixtures I have one incandescent and
one CFL. Otherwise I have to wait every time I turn on a light.

Further, none of the bulbs I can buy are rated to work outdoors. I put
one in my porchlight anyway, and it wore out in less time than an
incandescent.

== 11 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:54 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

William Sommerwerck wrote:

> It's amazing that, despite their generally poor color rendering, tubular FLs
> have long been tolerated in kitchens and workspaces.

I can't quantify it, but I have a much brighter tubular floursecent lamp
over my head because of the color problems. It seems I need a lot more
light to read with them than an incadescent one.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

== 12 of 12 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 10:28 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <ipbt0o$5oc$1@dont-email.me>,
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
> news:slrnirisln.rrp.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
>
> > BTW, I've been using them since the late 1990's and CFLs keep
> > getting cheaper, more efficient and on the whole better. They are
> > not perfect, and we still use incandescent bulbs in some places,
> > but 99% of the light in my home is from either CFLs or the old-
> > fashioned long ones.
>
> It's amazing that, despite their generally poor color rendering, tubular FLs
> have long been tolerated in kitchens and workspaces.

Not amazing to me. In commercial and industrial (IOW business)
applications, it's all about economy. It's a holdover from the days of
candlelit rooms filled with accountants. The "grumble factor" determined
how many candles were allowed: just enough to minimize but not totally
eliminate employee grumbling.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Found: E book stash.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e957cecc59313da7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 3:15 am
From: Barry OGrady

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 22:17:29 +1000, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@internode.on.net> wrote:

>On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:03:33 +0100, "Ian Field"
><gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
>>http://www.oldradios.co.nz/downloads/
>
>Thanks for that info.
>
>BTW, can anyone gain access to the manuals?
>http://www.oldradios.co.nz/data/manuals.htm
>
>I just see an empty "NewFolder".

Someone is havin' a laugh.

>- Franc Zabkar
>--

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 3:19 am
From: Barry OGrady

On Thu, 28 Apr 2011 01:40:57 +0200, "Gagi-9a6aag" <gagi@hi.htnet.hr>
wrote:

>
>"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>news:Gxgtp.39306$o81.32855@newsfe28.ams2...
>> http://www.unhas.ac.id/tahir/ebook/
>>
>
>awesome collection!!!
>thanks :)
>
>
>i already spreaded the link to Croatian Electronics Community through local
>news group....its very welcomed ;)

but what does it mean?

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:02 am
From: "Gagi-9a6aag"

"Barry OGrady" <atheist@hotmail.com.au> wrote
> but what does it mean?
>

what part you didnt understand?!?!
part that such link is welcome or part i did repost that link to Croatian
electronics news group?!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 3:31 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Meat Plow wrote:
>
> On Tue, 26 Apr 2011 22:36:18 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> > Meat Plow wrote:
> >>
> >> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 21:12:48 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>
> >> > Meat Plow wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 23:44:39 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> > Meat Plow wrote:
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:23:00 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >> >> >> >
> >> >> >> > A lot of old car radios used a 262.5 KHz IF to prevent image
> >> >> >> > problems
> >> >> >> > at 910 KHz. 262.5 KHz puts them all out of band.
> >> >> >>
> >> >> >> Old being before what year? I was just a young pup learning back
> >> >> >> in the 70's so I don't recall a 262 IF. Probably too much LSD
> >> >> >> later on.
> >> >> >
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Delco was still using 262.5 in the early '70s. I could repair
> >> >> > most
> >> >> > of their mid '60s to mid '70s AM radios in less than 15 minutes.
> >> >> > Some took less than 5 minutes. I still hve most of the H.W. Sams
> >> >> > AR series manuals. The cheap Japanese radios used either 450 or
> >> >> > 455 KHz IFs, which caused problems on 900 or 910 KHz.
> >> >>
> >> >> Well that makes sense. I got pretty good on the Delco stuff. Mostly
> >> >> bad tubes, suppressor caps, stuck vibrators, things of that nature.
> >> >> Tweaking the receiver I usually did by ear going through each stage
> >> >> from start to finish. Then the antenna trimmer once it was back in
> >> >> the vehicle. I'm sure I have an old tube radio and a few parts up in
> >> >> the attic. Used to have one on my bench for music.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > I gave away about 200 '50s through '70s car radios when I moved
> >> > south, 25 years ago. Now, most are worth $100 to $1000. :(
> >>
> >> Doesn't that piss you off.
> >
> >
> > I had a choice of bringing my tools, parts and manuals, or the
> > radios. I made a lot more money from using the tools. I hauled a little
> > over 17,000 pounds of tools, parts and manuals 1,000 miles, in two
> > trips. :)
>
> Was a semi with a 60, lbs load limit too much money one way?

I made two trips in a stepvan, for under $150. It took several weeks
on each end to load and unload the truck, so a semi would have been out
of the question.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Identification of components
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5538d8951f8ddc23?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 4:39 am
From: Chairman WAPSAC

I have a number of components on a board that I am trying to identify and was wondering if anyone can help with this. These are all SMDs on a underwater camera strobe (Sea & Sea YS-27DX)

Five pin device identified as an IC (U1 and U6) with markings T F
Four pin device identified as Silicon controlled rectifier with markings 692 CD
Transistor with markings HQ and then vertically 1E
Five pin transformer with markings C.000

Thanks in advance.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vietnamese Marshall
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83dfedaa7815fcd1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 5:39 am
From: "Phil Allison"

** A rather new looking Marshall " MA100H " valve head landed on my bench
today - but it looked a bit different. On the back it says " Made in Vietnam
" - so this is the first non UK made ( ie assembled) Marshall, at least
that I have ever seen.

The amp was silent, valves all lit up but no output whatsoever and no extra
current draw when the Standby switch was closed. OK - so where is the damn
HT fuse ? Nothing on the back so it must be inside - another first for a
Marshall valve amp. On the PCB is a 630mA delay fuse - very blown -
fitting a new one got the amp running.

Bit of poking about finds that both 1/4 inch QCs on the PCB used for output
valve grid drive are very loose - easy fixed. But was this the cause of
fuse blowing? Nope.

That 630 mA HT fuse should be 1 amp at least, since it is fitted in the
secondary of the PT. On test, the fuse had to pass just over 1 amp rms when
the amp is over-driven. The primary AC current draw is 2 amps rms at the
same time ( ie 480VA) .

On sine wave test, there is significant crossover distortion on the CRO
screen at 1/2 output and above. The bias setting seemed OK - there are two
trims inside and a pair of 1 ohm resistors in each pair of output valve
cathodes.

On checking the screen B+ supply, the cause is simple. There is no filter
choke of course ( what are they ?) and instead a 470 ohm ,7W resistor. So
the screen B+ supply falls like a rock soon as the amp is driven. Guess
this helps the crappy Chinese EL34s to survive overdriving.

Besides the above bad points, there are lots more.

The AC tranny is undersized - it looks like a 250VA type and needs to be
400VA to withstand hard use in this amp. Even sitting on the bench with a
605mA idle current from the AC supply, the internal temp rise is almost 40
degrees C. A couple of hours of heavy metal on a warm night will see it off.

The same * ridiculously fragile* plastic shaft pots as used on other recent
Marshalls have been fitted - one light bump on the knob = nasty
intermittent fault.

There is no AC voltage selector fitted and no internal option either,
another first in a Marshall valve head. All the fasteners are metric too,
not one single concession in sight to the brand's UK origin.

There ARE two small screw-in bulbs ( labelled 12V ) fitted inside the
cabinet that illuminate the whole chassis and the "Marshall" logo through
the open weave cloth. These are not ordinary 12 volt dial lamps but special
dual, orange LEDs - one chip connected for each polarity when fed with AC.

Next the these is a non Accutronics ( Belton ?) reverb tank.

All the jack sockets ( 7 of them ) are very fragile, PCB mount types.

Every single part in the amp looks like it came either from China, Korea or
Taiwan and then assembled in Vietnam.

Good points:
--------------

The 4 x EL34 output valves and the 12AX7 PI are on ceramic sockets, hand
wired to the two trannys and the PCB.

The main PCB looks like it is easy to get lose and invert for servicing.

The amp is pretty cheap to buy.

But a used example from the 1980s is a way better product, full of UK made
transformers and other parts that have proved their ability to survive in a
Marshall.

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha Stagepas 300 - followup
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f61801e166eeb6e7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:04 am
From: "N_Cook"

I only got back to this today , as no rush for it. The short plug-plug link
between the amp and its own speaker (amp sits in the speaker housing then
separate outlier sppeaker) has metal elbow 1/4 inch plugs, in touching
distance of the L speaker output is a metal handle . Maybe not original but
even so. L is the inverted channel and so metalwork of the plug is hot,
elbow rotates a bit , toyuiches handle and so blown amp. Nylon spiral wrap
around this rod-handle and some heatshrink over the elbows. Straight speaker
plugs would be ok if plastic , if metal then would await a screwdriver or
something to bridge that gap.
L and R only applies to extraneous inputs, no pan control on the 300
I spent another 20 minutes trying to spot the difference between the PA ,
there must be an inverter somewhere but nothing spied. Anyway up and going
now with repaired tiny D-Class power amp , matching its unsullied fellow.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:07 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ipbs1e$29c$1@dont-email.me...
>I only got back to this today , as no rush for it. The short plug-plug link
> between the amp and its own speaker (amp sits in the speaker housing then
> separate outlier sppeaker) has metal elbow 1/4 inch plugs, in touching
> distance of the L speaker output is a metal handle . Maybe not original
> but
> even so. L is the inverted channel and so metalwork of the plug is hot,
> elbow rotates a bit , toyuiches handle and so blown amp. Nylon spiral wrap
> around this rod-handle and some heatshrink over the elbows. Straight
> speaker
> plugs would be ok if plastic , if metal then would await a screwdriver or
> something to bridge that gap.
> L and R only applies to extraneous inputs, no pan control on the 300
> I spent another 20 minutes trying to spot the difference between the PA ,
> there must be an inverter somewhere but nothing spied. Anyway up and going
> now with repaired tiny D-Class power amp , matching its unsullied fellow.
>
>

Yamaha do kindly warn that if you do not use the speakers AND speaker cables
supplied, damage to the amplifier may result.

No mention of inverted outputs though.

How nice.

Gareth.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electric dog fence installation trouble
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3d11a1277a30303?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 7:20 am
From: Jstein

On Apr 27, 1:59 pm, W8CCW <Jferrel...@triad.rr.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:50:55 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
>
>
>
> <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Hi everyone,
>
> >I would like to ask for your help with a problem I'm having with my
> >electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek's IUC 5100:
>
> >http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q...
>
> >It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
> >atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
> >with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
> >would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
> >her only in the front. The transmitter is mounted in the center of the
> >wall on the longside of the concrete foundation. One side of the loop
> >starts at the transmitter, drops to the floor, runs out of the sill to
> >the yard, completes the loop and enters the house through the sill on
> >the opposite side and runs back to the transmitter. The issue with
> >this is that because the antenna runs along floor of the basement of
> >the house, Sadie can get shocked while leaving and entering. It is
> >spotty at times but if she gets shocked when trying to leave the house
> >my fear is that she will never want to go outside again. To combat
> >this issue I decided to splice in a piece of copper stranded shielded
> >wire in the hopes that this would shield incoming and outgoing signal.
> >At the entry points into the basement, I spliced both the shielded
> >cable and the single strand. At the transmitter I stripped approx 6"
> >of the shielded cable (on both left and right sides) and pulled the
> >center solid wire through the braid. I then connected both of these to
> >building ground. Much to my surprise, the shielded cable behaved the
> >same as the single copper wire loop I ran outside; it acted like an
> >antenna setting of the collar. The transmitter has 2 terminals that
> >connect to a separate surge protector box via a twisted cable. The
> >surge protector box has 4 terminals total, two that connect to the
> >transmitter and two that connect to the loop. The transmitter has a
> >non grounded power supply that plugs into the surge protector which is
> >grounded. I called Innotek and described what I was trying to do and
> >the best solution they could give me was to essentially splice on an
> >additional 1000' and double back to the starting point. While I do not
> >want to incur the expense of the additional wire, I am also stubborn
> >and would like to know the theory behind this and why it will not
> >work. Innotek informed me that the fence operates at 8.192 kHz while
> >the remote control operates at 27 MHz(not sure if remote is
> >important). If anyone has any suggestions I would be most
> >appreciative. Our dog needs more outside time and I do not want to
> >constantly have to worry that she is going to run off. Thank you in
> >advance for your help.
>
> >Jesse
>
> I turn the system off for Shadow to cross the boundry.
>
> John Ferrell

While this thought had occured to me, it is not ideal for me because
we sometimes keep the collar on her when she is in the house. She
likes to grab random items around the house and not drop them on
command. This is a habit we have been trying to break since day one
and she is now starting to understand the consequences of this
behavior. As I mentioned above, the collar can pick up the fence wire
in the basement and she can get shocked while freely roaming the house
which is not practical.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:02 am
From: Mr.E

On Thu, 28 Apr 2011 07:20:46 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
<stein.jesse@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Apr 27, 1:59�pm, W8CCW <Jferrel...@triad.rr.com> wrote:
>> On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:50:55 -0700 (PDT), Jstein
>>
>>
>>
>> <stein.je...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >Hi everyone,
>>
>> >I would like to ask for your help with a problem I�m having with my
>> >electric dog fence. I recently purchased Innotek�s IUC 5100:
>>
>> >http://www.amazon.com/Innotek-IUC5100UltraSmartContainGround/dp/B004Q...
>>
>> >It would appear that the way in which I want to install the system is
>> >atypical and not recommended by Innotek. I live in a 2 story house
>> >with a basement. My house sits in the center of my plot of land. I
>> >would like to keep the dog (Sadie) out of the back yard and contain
>> >her only in the front. The transmitter is mounted in the center of the
>> >wall on the longside of the concrete foundation. �One side of the loop
>> >starts at the transmitter, drops to the floor, runs out of the sill to
>> >the yard, completes the loop and enters the house through the sill on
>> >the opposite side and runs back to the transmitter. The issue with
>> >this is that because the antenna runs along floor of the basement of
>> >the house, Sadie can get shocked while leaving and entering. It is
>> >spotty at times but if she gets shocked when trying to leave the house
>> >my fear is that she will never want to go outside again. To combat
>> >this issue I decided to splice in a piece of copper stranded shielded
>> >wire in the hopes that this would shield incoming and outgoing signal.
>> >At the entry points into the basement, I spliced both the shielded
>> >cable and the single strand. At the transmitter I stripped approx 6�
>> >of the shielded cable (on both left and right sides) and pulled the
>> >center solid wire through the braid. I then connected both of these to
>> >building ground. Much to my surprise, the shielded cable behaved the
>> >same as the single copper wire loop I ran outside; it acted like an
>> >antenna setting of the collar. �The transmitter has 2 terminals that
>> >connect to a separate surge protector box via a twisted cable. The
>> >surge protector box has 4 terminals total, two that connect to the
>> >transmitter and two that connect to the loop. The transmitter has a
>> >non grounded power supply that plugs into the surge protector which is
>> >grounded. I called Innotek and described what I was trying to do and
>> >the best solution they could give me was to essentially splice on an
>> >additional 1000� and double back to the starting point. While I do not
>> >want to incur the expense of the additional wire, I am also stubborn
>> >and would like to know the theory behind this and why it will not
>> >work. Innotek informed me that the fence operates at 8.192 kHz while
>> >the remote control operates at 27 MHz(not sure if remote is
>> >important). �If anyone has any suggestions I would be most
>> >appreciative. Our dog needs more outside time and I do not want to
>> >constantly have to worry that she is going to run off. Thank you in
>> >advance for your help.
>>
>> >Jesse
>>
>> I turn the system off for Shadow to cross the boundry.
>>
>> John Ferrell
>
>While this thought had occured to me, it is not ideal for me because
>we sometimes keep the collar on her when she is in the house. She
>likes to grab random items around the house and not drop them on
>command. This is a habit we have been trying to break since day one
>and she is now starting to understand the consequences of this
>behavior. As I mentioned above, the collar can pick up the fence wire
>in the basement and she can get shocked while freely roaming the house
>which is not practical.
Relocate transmitter to rear wall and reroute loop so that all areas
she is allowed including the house are inside the loop perimeter and
she will not cross this perimeter entering and leaving basement.
--
Mr.E

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Video cassette - topology question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0684ad9ffa290aba?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 8:39 am
From: "Scott"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ip3jik$htm$1@dont-email.me...
> If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside the
> spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange. Taking
> the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping both spools
> horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out. Then would you
> expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring tape laying back to
> normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape mean the scrunched tape
> has looped over the top of the spool flange before scrunching or stayed
> within the plane of the normal tape passage, ie the volume of space of
> width of the tape.
>
>
If the tape jumped over the spool, there would be full twists, and no half
twists. So the spool would need to be turned at minimum, a full turn (so
that the correct side of the tape remains facing out). If you are seeing a
half twist anywhere (wrong side of the tape out), the other half of the
twist (or the return half twist) is simply folded onto the spool somewhere.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 9:50 am
From: Robert Macy

On Apr 25, 3:50 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> If a tape gets scrunched up and loops once around the pivot, inside the
> spool, jammed between the hank of tape and the "top" spool flange. Taking
> the cover of the cassette off and removing one spool. Keeping both spools
> horizontal, you unwind the scrunched loop by pulling out. Then would you
> expect to have to flip one spool , one turn, to bring tape laying back to
> normal? Would that removal of a twist in the tape mean the scrunched tape
> has looped over the top of the spool flange before scrunching or stayed
> within the plane of the normal tape passage, ie the volume of space of
> width of the tape.

examine closely, the tape may have twisted and then rolled up on one
of the reels, looks normal, and then jumped again. [happened to me]
easy to tell by shininess of tape surfaces.

I've repaired over 6 tapes that got crunched, including a pre-recorded
purchased tape.

I had to either roll enough out to find and straighten or cut off bad
section (lost 15 minutes at start of reel) and tape back to leader -
careful do not transfer human oils onto the tape

Recommend wiping the mylar substrate to smooth down the roughness,
else you run the risk of breaking a head on the VCR player, or at
least gumming it up with a lot of powder residues.

Better, if possible do NOT disassemble casette, simply make some tools
to allow you to pull the tape out of the cassette, rewind, etc. Tools
that keep the flip lid open, tools that unlock reels etc Just pull
out enough to work on the damaged section of tape, then wind back up.
Once finished, do a non-viewing wind/rewind from one end to the other
in order to get the tension and take up uniform inside the cassette.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Annoying Clock on Microwave
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/408849711f765a28?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 28 2011 10:28 am
From: josephkk

On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 06:50:05 -0700 (PDT), KR <kenreed1999@gmail.com>
wrote:

>On Apr 25, 9:05 pm, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
>wrote:
>> >> I find it impossible to believe that /any/ microwave oven
>> >> would use a crystal or resonator -- which costs money --
>> >> when the power frequency is /right there/, and free.
>> > They would use the same crystal as the microprocessor,
>> > and run the clock in software.
>>
>> I was, of course, referring to a separate crystal (he said, retro-conning
>> the issue).
>
>
>It is possible to have a second crystal, as I have seen a custom IC
>that included an RTC inside have its own separate 3.579mhz
>crystal in addition to the crystal for the CPU function. Both
>connected to the same IC on separate pins.
>In this case though, this second crystal would be just for the RTC
>function,
>as the low speed would save power, and also the rest of the chip would
>likely be shut down also to save power hence no software clock.
>This was an early 1990s design
>
>
>
>As microwaves don't have a RTC in them (that I have seen) and simply
>reset to 12:00 or whatever after a power failure,
>there is no need for the more sophisticated system described above.
>
That IS a RTC. It just has no battery backup to ride through power
outages.
>
>I agree with Michael A Terrell,
>
>There wouldn't be a separate crystal for the clock in a modern
>microwave,
>The "clock" and processor would be incorporated into a single chip,
>and the timekeeping would
>be surely a software function. The chip would very likely have a
>single crystal
>or resonator.
>
>In my original comment, I suggested looking for a trimmer cap
>across the crystal and trimming it to fine adjust the clock if the
>inaccuracy is a real issue for the OP .
>
>You also can check the value of the crystal, there is also a very very
>remote possibility that there was the wrong value, but very close
>installed at the factory - something like a 3.562 MHZ instead of a
>3.579545 MHZ

It would save a lot more power at 32,786 Hz, which is also standard for
the application.

>for example, but without sitting and working out the inaccuracy this
>would cause, this might not be right and might make too big a
>difference to be the problem.
>
>
>It will not hurt the rest of the system to run a tiny fraction faster/
>slower.
>
>
>

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