sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* earn - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aab9e4de2bd1a2da?hl=en
* Lead free solder - 6 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
* scam internet scams list ebay motors scam internet dating scams scam report
scams nigerian scam internet scams report scam ioffer scam cashcrate scam
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shopper scam google adsen - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7a2850a640bab986?hl=en
* Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
* Analogue meter - suspension repair - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90fa135e0056f33b?hl=en
* WHOLESALE all BRAND(UGG BOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,JERSEY,T-
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online.com/. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5cb391aefe74ed49?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: earn
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aab9e4de2bd1a2da?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, May 3 2011 10:27 pm
From: DINESH PATIL

http://123maza.com/65/born511/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lead free solder
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7ff46ef49e9b7de3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 12:10 am
From: "N_Cook"

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message
news:1IqdnWMR4-FFEl3QnZ2dnUVZ_hmdnZ2d@giganews.com...
> Charles wrote:
> >
> >
> > "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
> > news:sJqdnXaJJ-CPtCfQnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@earthlink.com...
> >
> >
> > Charles wrote:
> >>
> >> "Father Haskell" wrote in message
> >>
news:8149b5cb-636f-481c-8684-e6b9123c7ac4@dr5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
> >>
> >> On Apr 21, 5:07 pm, "Charles" <charlesschu...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >> > Has this had any impact on repair and rework of electronic devices
and
> >> > equipment?
> >>
> >> If it's as bad as the lead-free plumbing solder, expect
> >> poor wetting and tendency to set cold. 63/37 tin-lead
> >> can't be beat. Fast, and joints look like they're soldered
> >> with Sterling silver.
> >>
> >> The eutectic 63/37 alloy is still easy to buy. Perhaps the repair
> >> industry
> >> is dodging the bullet fired at the manufacturing industry. Or, as
> >> several
> >> have pointed out, it is impossible to enforce lead-free rules on the
> >> repairers.
> >
> >
> > Once again, you ignore the fact that Usenet isn't a US only medium.
> >
> > OK, please post your International summary of the legal use of leaded
> > solders for repairs, as of May, 2011.
>
> Here is one UK manufacturer of leaded solder -
>
> http://www.warton-metals.co.uk/barsolder.html
>
> No idea on the legal status though.
>
> John :-#)#
>
> --
> (Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
> John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
> Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
> www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Heaps of NOS lead solder for sale at much the same price as always has been
, at radio rallies around the UK. So by inference there must still be a
demand for it. Usually accompanied with disclaimer notices along the lines
"Sold for use for repairing old equipment only"

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 12:52 am
From: "N_Cook"

Just met the other problem . Do you have a leaded or non-leaded pcb in front
of you to deal with. ?
Current one a Fender amp, so USA and no RoHS stickers anywhere, but
component date of 2005, so before 2006, so one would assume it was leaded
solder from that info. Not taken apart yet but can see perhaps 10 ring
cracks in the solder around the valve bases, rear of pcb not seen yet. At
this stage I suspect PbF solder

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 12:19 pm
From: Baron

John Robertson Inscribed thus:

> Charles wrote:
>>
>>
>> "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
>> news:sJqdnXaJJ-CPtCfQnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>
>>
>> Charles wrote:
>>>
>>> "Father Haskell" wrote in message
>>>
news:8149b5cb-636f-481c-8684-e6b9123c7ac4@dr5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
>>>
>>> On Apr 21, 5:07 pm, "Charles" <charlesschu...@comcast.net> wrote:
>>> > Has this had any impact on repair and rework of electronic devices
>>> > and equipment?
>>>
>>> If it's as bad as the lead-free plumbing solder, expect
>>> poor wetting and tendency to set cold. 63/37 tin-lead
>>> can't be beat. Fast, and joints look like they're soldered
>>> with Sterling silver.
>>>
>>> The eutectic 63/37 alloy is still easy to buy. Perhaps the repair
>>> industry
>>> is dodging the bullet fired at the manufacturing industry. Or, as
>>> several
>>> have pointed out, it is impossible to enforce lead-free rules on the
>>> repairers.
>>
>>
>> Once again, you ignore the fact that Usenet isn't a US only medium.
>>
>> OK, please post your International summary of the legal use of leaded
>> solders for repairs, as of May, 2011.
>
> Here is one UK manufacturer of leaded solder -
>
> http://www.warton-metals.co.uk/barsolder.html

No association with Warton Metals, but I would highly recommend them !
They are one of the most courteous, knowledgeable and helpful companies
that I've encountered.

> No idea on the legal status though.
>
> John :-#)#
>

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 1:23 pm
From: "Charles"

"Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
news:AZSdnZ3KzMKmBF3QnZ2dnUVZ_u2dnZ2d@earthlink.com...

Do your own homework, school teacher.

Assuming that I am a school teacher, how does one do homework these days.
Usenet is off limits?

You can't fix RUDE, you just have to ignore it.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 4:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Charles wrote:
>
> "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
> news:AZSdnZ3KzMKmBF3QnZ2dnUVZ_u2dnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> Do your own homework, school teacher.
>
> Assuming that I am a school teacher, how does one do homework these days.
> Usenet is off limits?

Are you saying that you lied when you claimed to have been a teacher?

> You can't fix RUDE, you just have to ignore it.

OK. I'll ignore you. PLONK

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 5:48 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ipqu4g$3p6$1@dont-email.me...
> John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message
> news:1IqdnWMR4-FFEl3QnZ2dnUVZ_hmdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>> Charles wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > "Michael A. Terrell" wrote in message
>> > news:sJqdnXaJJ-CPtCfQnZ2dnUVZ_uednZ2d@earthlink.com...
>> >
>> >
>> > Charles wrote:
>> >>
>> >> "Father Haskell" wrote in message
>> >>
> news:8149b5cb-636f-481c-8684-e6b9123c7ac4@dr5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com...
>> >>
>> >> On Apr 21, 5:07 pm, "Charles" <charlesschu...@comcast.net> wrote:
>> >> > Has this had any impact on repair and rework of electronic devices
> and
>> >> > equipment?
>> >>
>> >> If it's as bad as the lead-free plumbing solder, expect
>> >> poor wetting and tendency to set cold. 63/37 tin-lead
>> >> can't be beat. Fast, and joints look like they're soldered
>> >> with Sterling silver.
>> >>
>> >> The eutectic 63/37 alloy is still easy to buy. Perhaps the repair
>> >> industry
>> >> is dodging the bullet fired at the manufacturing industry. Or, as
>> >> several
>> >> have pointed out, it is impossible to enforce lead-free rules on the
>> >> repairers.
>> >
>> >
>> > Once again, you ignore the fact that Usenet isn't a US only medium.
>> >
>> > OK, please post your International summary of the legal use of leaded
>> > solders for repairs, as of May, 2011.
>>
>> Here is one UK manufacturer of leaded solder -
>>
>> http://www.warton-metals.co.uk/barsolder.html
>>
>> No idea on the legal status though.
>>
>> John :-#)#
>>
>> --
>> (Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
>> John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
>> Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
>> www.flippers.com
>> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
>
>
> Heaps of NOS lead solder for sale at much the same price as always has
> been
> , at radio rallies around the UK. So by inference there must still be a
> demand for it. Usually accompanied with disclaimer notices along the lines
> "Sold for use for repairing old equipment only"
>
>

The main people such as Farnell still stock it as a current item.

Arfa

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 3:46 am
From: sukanya

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mopar model 812 car radio, (early 1950's Chrysler product)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3135639c17d6af1d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 10:58 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On May 3, 3:25 pm, Meat Plow <mhywa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 03 May 2011 10:02:09 -0700, klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> > I'm really sorry guys. It looks like somehow almost everything I've
> > written over the past few weeks was (for want of a better term)
> > "vomited" into my last post, (which incidentally never even appeared
> > Here it is:
>
> > I got this set working and it actually works pretty well too. The
> > vibrator buffer cap though shows very slight leakage and I would like to
> > replace it. The original is a .0047mfd@ 1600V. I know that the cap and
> > transformer make up a kind of "tuned circuit" on these old radios but
> > I'm not sure how critical that was. I have a nice mylar .0056mfd@ 2000V
> > in my parts box and I although I wouldn't think so, I wonder if that
> > might be too far off from the OEM value to do the job. Thanks, Lenny
>
> The cap across the vibrator is to suppress sparking of the reed switch
> contacts. Like a cap in an old auto distributer with points. They will
> both pit quickly and eventually fuse together if the cap isn't present.
> The .0056 should work fine.
>
> --
> Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

I put in the .0056 and its working fine. Thanks, everyone Lenny

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Analogue meter - suspension repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90fa135e0056f33b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, May 4 2011 11:32 am
From: "Shaun"

"N_Cook" wrote in message news:ipmgml$5sn$1@dont-email.me...

Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:lZxvp.82671$of7.68935@en-nntp-15.dc1.easynews.com...
> I've never needed to repair that type of meter movement, but it sounds as
> though what has been described is likely to be the Taut-Band type of meter
> movement.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ipltei$n6j$1@dont-email.me...
> > Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
> > phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A ribbon,
> > top
> > and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is
> > soldered
> > to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor ,
> > passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of manageable
> > size
> > phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring. The
> > solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U
springs
> > are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of
the
> > fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not
> > joined
> > up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to
> > resolder
> > to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its u-spring
> > anchor farther along than originally.
> > But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering
the
> > anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of
> > external
> > spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement.
I'm
> > assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs
removed,
> > or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to U
> > with
> > jigs removed, normal use.
> > Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame
> > drop,
> > with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece,
when
> > the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
> > Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it
was
> > required?
> >
> >
>

I never looked inside one but all those broken Pye/Cambridge? moving spot
galvanometers presumably had that system. While at it anyone know what the
suspension is in Megger insulation tester? that dead springless movement,
jewelled without hairspring? - I've never looked insiside the meter movement
of one

I used to work on meter movements from time to time. Some of the Meggers I
worked on had a dual coil which worked as a balance (between currents in
each coil). One or both of the jewels had a spring under them, I remember
putting the coil assembly carefully back into the jewels just with a pair of
tweezers.

Shaun

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, May 5 2011 12:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

Shaun <spam@nomail.com> wrote in message
news:JYgwp.18468$uh5.15974@newsfe02.iad...
>
>
> "N_Cook" wrote in message news:ipmgml$5sn$1@dont-email.me...
>
> Wild_Bill <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:lZxvp.82671$of7.68935@en-nntp-15.dc1.easynews.com...
> > I've never needed to repair that type of meter movement, but it sounds
as
> > though what has been described is likely to be the Taut-Band type of
meter
> > movement.
> >
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > WB
> > .............
> >
> >
> > "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:ipltei$n6j$1@dont-email.me...
> > > Anyone any experience? Coil is fine. This is almost hair-fine
> > > phosphor-bronze ribbon suspension , not hairspring and jewels. A
ribbon,
> > > top
> > > and bottom, holds the coil frame and passes current. Each ribbon is
> > > soldered
> > > to the frame then passes through a hole in the offset-rotatable anchor
,
> > > passes over the rounded edge of an open end of a U-shape of
manageable
> > > size
> > > phosphor bronze spring , and soldered along the arm of that spring.
The
> > > solder point to the frame has failed from a jar / knock. So both U
> springs
> > > are now opened to a V in comparison. I have tried solder to the end of
> the
> > > fine ribbon and the stub on the frame, both take solder fine but not
> > > joined
> > > up yet. There is enough length of fine ribbon on the broken side to
> > > resolder
> > > to the coil frame , pass thru the hole and anchor off , on its
u-spring
> > > anchor farther along than originally.
> > > But how to bring the open-U springs back to proper U before soldering
> the
> > > anchor point. A matter of making a jig to compress or some sort of
> > > external
> > > spring over them ? And of course I've not seen a functioning movement.
> I'm
> > > assuming setting up as U and then opening out a bit with the jigs
> removed,
> > > or would the jig need to compress to more than U and then open out to
U
> > > with
> > > jigs removed, normal use.
> > > Pushing down on the spring of the good end and letting the coil frame
> > > drop,
> > > with gravity, it seems to be centrally aligned over the pole piece,
> when
> > > the spring is a proper U viewed on side.
> > > Where would one find , even robbing, short lengths of such rbbon if it
> was
> > > required?
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
> I never looked inside one but all those broken Pye/Cambridge? moving spot
> galvanometers presumably had that system. While at it anyone know what the
> suspension is in Megger insulation tester? that dead springless movement,
> jewelled without hairspring? - I've never looked insiside the meter
movement
> of one
>
>
> I used to work on meter movements from time to time. Some of the Meggers
I
> worked on had a dual coil which worked as a balance (between currents in
> each coil). One or both of the jewels had a spring under them, I remember
> putting the coil assembly carefully back into the jewels just with a pair
of
> tweezers.
>
> Shaun
>
>

2 , 3 or 4 conductor wires going to the coils frame?
2 hairsprings in opposistion ? why not no springs

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5cb391aefe74ed49?hl=en
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