sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Old garage light fixture with no sign of existing switch
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dbc8e5862471cfc7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 12:45 am
From: Jim

[Original thread posted 7/2/10 under same subject line.]

Here's a long term follow-up for anyone who recalls this old
thread or might stumble onto it trying to fix a similar
problem.

It turned out that the single inside garage wall switch DID
indeed control the outside and inside garage lights
simultaneously. Kind of an odd setup, but it can be mitigated
with a separate switch inside if you don't want both lights on
at once.

It seems to have been an unlucky coincidence of a test bulb
burning out right after being screwed in (outside), giving the
false impression that the switch was unrelated. That, combined
with being told it hadn't worked in decades!

We just got around to checking it again (became a high
priority) and the lesson is to double-check a test bulb, even
if it worked minutes before. Never assume, in other words!

Jim

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 4:20 am
From: Bob Villa

On May 23, 2:45 am, Jim <jim857...@jim.com> wrote:
> [Original thread posted 7/2/10 under same subject line.]
>
> Here's a long term follow-up for anyone who recalls this old
> thread or might stumble onto it trying to fix a similar
> problem.
>
> It turned out that the single inside garage wall switch DID
> indeed control the outside and inside garage lights
> simultaneously. Kind of an odd setup, but it can be mitigated
> with a separate switch inside if you don't want both lights on
> at once.
>
> It seems to have been an unlucky coincidence of a test bulb
> burning out right after being screwed in (outside), giving the
> false impression that the switch was unrelated. That, combined
> with being told it hadn't worked in decades!
>
> We just got around to checking it again (became a high
> priority) and the lesson is to double-check a test bulb, even
> if it worked minutes before. Never assume, in other words!
>
> Jim

That's why those no-contact testers are so handy!

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 4:27 am
From: PeterD

On 5/23/2011 3:45 AM, Jim wrote:
> [Original thread posted 7/2/10 under same subject line.]
>
> Here's a long term follow-up for anyone who recalls this old
> thread or might stumble onto it trying to fix a similar
> problem.
>
> It turned out that the single inside garage wall switch DID
> indeed control the outside and inside garage lights
> simultaneously. Kind of an odd setup, but it can be mitigated
> with a separate switch inside if you don't want both lights on
> at once.
>
> It seems to have been an unlucky coincidence of a test bulb
> burning out right after being screwed in (outside), giving the
> false impression that the switch was unrelated. That, combined
> with being told it hadn't worked in decades!
>
> We just got around to checking it again (became a high
> priority) and the lesson is to double-check a test bulb, even
> if it worked minutes before. Never assume, in other words!
>
> Jim

<ggg> That stuff does happen, doesn't it.

I can see it wired that way too, owner or electrician too lazy or not
skilled enough to wire in another switch.

--
I'm never going to grow up.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 5:44 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

PeterD wrote:
> I can see it wired that way too, owner or electrician too lazy or not
> skilled enough to wire in another switch.

No, it's more likely WHEN it was wired. At one time there was so little crime
in the suburbs and they were not worried about someone tripping in front of
their garage and suing them, that they did not leave the lights on.

In those days, either you left the light on when you went out at night,
or you pulled up in the driveway and honked your horn for your
stay-at-home-mom wife to turn on the light.

If you had street lights and no one home, you pulled up in the driveway,
got out of the car, opened the garge door, turned on the light and went
in.

After parking the car and going into the house, the light went out. Later
really rich people bought electronic garage door openers, which did the same
thing.

Look at the old TV shows, such as Leave it to Beaver, I Love Lucy, or
the Dick van Dyke Show.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
It's amazing how many people have no clue what the word "contiguous" means. :-(

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 10:48 am
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <Ms-dnfLXmNc9jUfQnZ2dnUVZ_sSdnZ2d@wavecable.com>,
Jim <jim857676@jim.com> wrote:

>Here's a long term follow-up for anyone who recalls this old
>thread or might stumble onto it trying to fix a similar
>problem.

Thanks, Jim... that was a bit of a puzzler!

>We just got around to checking it again (became a high
>priority) and the lesson is to double-check a test bulb, even
>if it worked minutes before. Never assume, in other words!

Or (worded in a slightly different way)... *do* assume that Murphy
will show up at the most inconvenient of times!

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Monica Pignotti: Not An Activist, But An Internet Addict
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5287f6d694bab5f5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 6:39 am
From: Nomen Nescio

If Monica Pignotti spent all the time she spends posting odd things to Usenet, she could really make a difference:

http://particleprincess.wordpress.com/2011/04/06/monica-pignotti-lots-of-posting-little-activism/

But no, she'd rather spend her time engaging in debates, some nearly ten years old.

The menage a quatre with her, Mann, Hassan and Erlich is really old and tiresome.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Randall RG100G3 powerFET amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/57d83a13c4840b3c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 6:46 am
From: "N_Cook"

Back working again replacing the TRF820 and 2SK1058 principally. I would not
have expected to see just 1Kohm separating the gate of an FET from the
anode of a valve.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: AM/FM radio troubleshooting
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e2ca200c549afdd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 6:59 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On May 23, 2:10 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "spamtrap1888"
>
>
>
> >http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20097173226815.gif
>
> How do you tune the radio in that schematic?
>
> ** Like any receiver that uses a crystal oscillator.
>
> By swapping the crystal.
>
> Ask anyone with a RC model.
>
> ..... Phil

Well we all knew that you were off your rails Phil, but now we know
just what it was that drove you nuts. An intermittent fuse. No TWO
intermittent fuses. Possibly if not the most, then one of the most
simple components known to electronics techs. I sincerely hope they
weren't "chemical" fuses. I guess you must have slept through that
class huh? Maybe that can happen to "2AG" fuses, dunno.....Lenny

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 7:09 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"klem kedidelhopper"

** Lenny,

it would be an act of kindness to simply put a bullet in your head.

I sincerely feel sorry for anyone whose life or well being you are able to
influence - cos it must be life of pure hell for them putting up with a
lunatic like you.

Calling you as six toed, banjo plucking retard was such a masterful piece of
understatement.

Cos all you really are is a piece of fucking garbage.

.... Phil

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 7:24 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

On May 23, 10:09 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "klem kedidelhopper"
>
> ** Lenny,
>
> it would be an act of kindness to simply put a bullet in your head.
>
> I sincerely feel sorry for anyone whose life or well being you are able to
> influence - cos it must be life of pure hell for them putting up with a
> lunatic like you.
>
> Calling you as six toed, banjo plucking retard was such a masterful piece of
> understatement.
>
> Cos all you really are is a piece of fucking garbage.
>
> .... Phil

So eloquently put Phil! But then I'd expect nothing less from you.
Lenny

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 8:00 am
From: spamtrap1888

On May 22, 11:10 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "spamtrap1888"
>
>
>
> >http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20097173226815.gif
>
> How do you tune the radio in that schematic?
>
> ** Like any receiver that uses a crystal oscillator.
>
> By swapping the crystal.
>
> Ask anyone with a RC model.
>
> ..... Phil

So meatplow's proffered schematic is even more spectacularly
inappropriate to the OP's situation -- trouble shooting a nine-
transistor AM-FM radio from 1970. Which, as I recall, likely used a
variable capacitor for tuning.

Googling shows a schematic of the Transistor 305 is available for
purchase on radiomuseum.org

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 9:16 am
From: "Ian Field"

"klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d68f5a05-8d11-4ebb-bcf3-db0bf24f110e@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
On May 23, 10:09 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "klem kedidelhopper"
>
> ** Lenny,
>
> it would be an act of kindness to simply put a bullet in your head.
>
> I sincerely feel sorry for anyone whose life or well being you are able to
> influence - cos it must be life of pure hell for them putting up with a
> lunatic like you.
>
> Calling you as six toed, banjo plucking retard was such a masterful piece
> of
> understatement.
>
> Cos all you really are is a piece of fucking garbage.
>
> .... Phil

So eloquently put Phil! But then I'd expect nothing less from you.

===============================

He was raised by dingoes.

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 9:35 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Ian Field wrote:
>
> "klem kedidelhopper" <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:d68f5a05-8d11-4ebb-bcf3-db0bf24f110e@p23g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
> On May 23, 10:09 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> > "klem kedidelhopper"
> >
> > ** Lenny,
> >
> > it would be an act of kindness to simply put a bullet in your head.
> >
> > I sincerely feel sorry for anyone whose life or well being you are able to
> > influence - cos it must be life of pure hell for them putting up with a
> > lunatic like you.
> >
> > Calling you as six toed, banjo plucking retard was such a masterful piece
> > of
> > understatement.
> >
> > Cos all you really are is a piece of fucking garbage.
> >
> > .... Phil
>
> So eloquently put Phil! But then I'd expect nothing less from you.
>
> ===============================
>
> He was raised by dingoes.

Dingoes that were addicted to heroin.

--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 1:50 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 22 May 2011 21:53:33 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:

> On May 22, 6:41 pm, Meat Plow <mhywa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Start with the first RF amp. It's probably a superhet so there will be
>> a 455 osc and mixer. After that a couple rf amps and the the detector.
>>
>> Google a superhetrodyne receiver. This one uses ICs but the basics are
>> the same
>>
>> http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20097173226815.gif
>>
>> Should give you some insight as to where the signal is being lost in
>> the path.
>
> How do you tune the radio in that schematic

Tune as in select a frequency? Maybe by mind control? It's just a crude
example, not meant to be a service diagram.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 2:00 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 23 May 2011 08:00:04 -0700, spamtrap1888 wrote:

> On May 22, 11:10 pm, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>> "spamtrap1888"
>>
>>
>>
>> >http://www.seekic.com/uploadfile/ic-circuit/20097173226815.gif
>>
>> How do you tune the radio in that schematic?
>>
>> ** Like any receiver that uses a crystal oscillator.
>>
>> By swapping the crystal.
>>
>> Ask anyone with a RC model.
>>
>> ..... Phil
>
> So meatplow's proffered schematic is even more spectacularly
> inappropriate to the OP's situation -- trouble shooting a nine-
> transistor AM-FM radio from 1970. Which, as I recall, likely used a
> variable capacitor for tuning.
>
> Googling shows a schematic of the Transistor 305 is available for
> purchase on radiomuseum.org

I'd call it a crude example not a fucking service manual. As I said when
I posted the image link. Here's a more relevant schematic for fuckwits
like you. I apologize but I sometimes forget there are idiots of your ilk
that need to be spoon fed and use a drool cup.

http://transistorhistory.50webs.com/lafay4.gif

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Part Needed for APC Smart-UPS SUA1500
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2266384d6b8f97e4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 7:02 am
From: mike

On May 22, 3:03 pm, "Chris F." <zappy...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have one of these laying around for parts? I need the little
> transformer on the mainboard, mine got broken off while reinstalling the
> battery. This is the later black version BTW.

How 'bout a picture of the circuit board, it may be the same or
similar enough to other models.

Mikel

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fixing a bent usb
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9f38e546d86013dd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 10:34 am
From: John Robertson

chrisj.doran%proemail.co.uk@gtempaccount.com wrote:
> On May 22, 3:59 am, vjp2...@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>> Too many times I've thrown out a bent USB..
>> what if I really needed it? how likely would I be to repair it?
>> Any kits?
>>
>> Usually happens with memory, but I just dropped and messed up a modem
>>
>> - = -
>> Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
>> http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
>> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
>> [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
>> [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
>
> Since you mention it, I have an SD card reader that's fallen apart and
> will no longer recognise the card, although the computer recognises it
> as a disk drive with no disk. For a while, I could get it to find the
> card if I squeezed it between my fingers, but that doesn't work any
> more. No sweat, I got a replacement for guess what in a 99p shop. But
> just out of curiosity, is there anything I could use it for, e.g.
> could the computer waggle any of the card contacts up and down somehow
> to control something?
>
> Chris

You can always use it to prop open a window.

How on earth a computer could waggle a contact when the contact is a
simple piece of spring metal I'll never know...

John ;-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PC Power Supply Recommendations?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5d9c672c7593977e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 12:25 pm
From: KenO

Hi larry moe 'n curly,

"You may want to check JonnyGuru.com and HardwareSecrets.com for
recommended models and brands. Among the best manufacturers are
Seasonic, Enhance, Win-tact, and Zippy/Emacs, but also good are Delta,
Enermax, and Fortron-Source/Sparkle. These may be sold under various
brands, like Corsair, Thermaltake, PC Power & Cooling, and Antec, and
each of those brands may be made by several different companies."

Thanks for the suggestions.

"These may be sold under various brands, like Corsair, Thermaltake, PC
Power & Cooling, and Antec, and each of those brands may be made by
several different companies." Guess you really have to know the
reputation of a specific model.

Ken

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 12:41 pm
From: KenO

Hi Jeff,

"What I look for is power factor correction. That will drop the
efficiency somewhat, but is well worth it (and will soon be
mandatory).
Any idea when it will become mandatory?

"I forgot exactly what I used: <www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/
ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf>
Tried to use the link but only got "404. That's an error."
http://static.googleusercontent.com/external_content/untrusted_dlcp/www.google.com/en/us/www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf

"So, who makes high quality ATX power supplies? Well, it's none of
the commodity or OEM vendors. It's possible that the industrial and
server vendors have better power supplies, but I didn't test any of
those. I also can't afford them....I rather like Dell power supplies.
I've had my share of Dell failures, but reliability is not the
attraction. In their larger boxes, Dell uses a single 120mm cooling
fan, with the speed controlled by the temperature. That makes for a
very quiet machine."
Do you know who makes the Dell PSU with the 120mm fan?

Ken

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 2:54 pm
From: Grant

On Mon, 23 May 2011 12:41:19 -0700 (PDT), KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Hi Jeff,
>
>"What I look for is power factor correction. That will drop the
>efficiency somewhat, but is well worth it (and will soon be
>mandatory).
>Any idea when it will become mandatory?
>
>"I forgot exactly what I used: <www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/
>ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf>
>Tried to use the link but only got "404. That's an error."
>http://static.googleusercontent.com/external_content/untrusted_dlcp/www.google.com/en/us/www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/ATX12V_PSDG_2_2_public_br2.pdf
>
>"So, who makes high quality ATX power supplies? Well, it's none of
>the commodity or OEM vendors. It's possible that the industrial and
>server vendors have better power supplies, but I didn't test any of
>those. I also can't afford them....I rather like Dell power supplies.
> I've had my share of Dell failures, but reliability is not the
>attraction. In their larger boxes, Dell uses a single 120mm cooling
>fan, with the speed controlled by the temperature. That makes for a
>very quiet machine."
>Do you know who makes the Dell PSU with the 120mm fan?
>
>Ken
>
Set your user agent to quote properly, last two posts make no sense.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Wall Warts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de407a5056a54ee0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 1:54 pm
From: Puddin' Man

I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an antique.

The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has a slight
bulge and outputs 0v.

I rumble thru my box of WW's, find one at rated output of dc 12v, 300 mA,
splice the wires, plug it in to see if it will charge. It will, but it heats
up a bunch, enough to burn my fingers a little.

Are there any guidelines for substituting these things? I'd like to keep the drill,
but can hardly afford to burn the house down. :-)

Thx,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 3:09 pm
From: whit3rd

On Monday, May 23, 2011 1:54:46 PM UTC-7, Puddin' Man wrote:
> I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an antique.
>
> The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has a slight
> bulge and outputs 0v.
>
> I rumble thru my box of WW's, find one at rated output of dc 12v, 300 mA,

To charge a 9.6V battery (which would be eight 1.2V NiCd sub-C cells in series)
I'd consider 150 mA for eight hours. So, connect a series resistor
to the 12V supply that chokes the charge current down to that level
(measure with ammeter into a part-charged battery).

The purpose here is to DEFEAT THE REGULATION of that 12V power supply,
it oughtn't drive its maximum current just because its load is intended to
be 9.6V instead of 12V...

At a guess, the original power was unfiltered but rectified, and the replacement
is rectified, filtered, and regulated. The filtering doesn't hurt, but that
voltage regulation is your enemy here.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 5:10 pm
From: "Trevor Wilson"

whit3rd wrote:
> On Monday, May 23, 2011 1:54:46 PM UTC-7, Puddin' Man wrote:
>> I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an
>> antique.
>>
>> The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has
>> a slight bulge and outputs 0v.
>>
>> I rumble thru my box of WW's, find one at rated output of dc 12v,
>> 300 mA,
>
> To charge a 9.6V battery (which would be eight 1.2V NiCd sub-C cells
> in series) I'd consider 150 mA for eight hours. So, connect a series
> resistor
> to the 12V supply that chokes the charge current down to that level
> (measure with ammeter into a part-charged battery).
>
> The purpose here is to DEFEAT THE REGULATION of that 12V power supply,
> it oughtn't drive its maximum current just because its load is
> intended to
> be 9.6V instead of 12V...
>
> At a guess, the original power was unfiltered but rectified, and the
> replacement is rectified, filtered, and regulated. The filtering
> doesn't hurt, but that voltage regulation is your enemy here.

**Agreed with the above, but for a few cents more, you could use an LM317 as
a current source (see the Natsemi application notes), set for the
appropriate current. You may need an unregulated 12 Volt wall wart, or,
perhaps, a 15 Volt one.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 5:22 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Puddin' Man"
>
> I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an antique.
>
> The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has a
> slight
> bulge and outputs 0v.

** Wall warts break up into THREE distinct groups:

1. AC output.

2. DC output.

3. Battery chargers.

You cannot exchange units from one group into another.

Those in group 3 are the most variable in design and are purpose built to
charge a specific type and number of cells.

The fact they all look much the same and often have the same plugs attached
is very misleading.

.... Phil

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, May 23 2011 5:24 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

The reply from whit is a good suggestion, but I suspect that the cells in
the drill are shorted, which will damage a charging power supply. It seems
that the old supply became overheated and failed, which will happen if the
cells are shorted.
I believe this is the reason for the substitute wall wart getting hot.

To find out if the cells are shorted, the cells need to be accessed, and
individually checked with an ohm meter or an instrument capable of measuring
battery cell impedance or ESR.
Also, a reading for individual cells with voltmeter reading of zero volts
generally indicates shorted cells.

Replacing all of the cells is the most effective solution, and cells with
tabs can be soldered together in the original order, and restore full (or
even better) operation of the drill (or most cordless tools).

If you have the ability to make good solder connections, replacement is
usually less costly than paying someone else to do the work.

There are numerous online sellers with reasonable prices for replacement
cells.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Puddin' Man" <puddingDOTman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6bilt6tedes72j7jmhgvbctu41evoou66g@4ax.com...
>
> I've a Skil Mod 2375 3/8" cordless drill (9.6v) thats nearly an antique.
>
> The old wall wart outputs dc 11v, 250 mA when functional. It now has a
> slight
> bulge and outputs 0v.
>
> I rumble thru my box of WW's, find one at rated output of dc 12v, 300 mA,
> splice the wires, plug it in to see if it will charge. It will, but it
> heats
> up a bunch, enough to burn my fingers a little.
>
> Are there any guidelines for substituting these things? I'd like to keep
> the drill,
> but can hardly afford to burn the house down. :-)
>
> Thx,
> P
>
> "Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
>

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 8 topics - digest

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