sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: a bios question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7c0bc6748d91ff8b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 6:26 am
From: Bob Villa

On May 14, 7:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Bob Villa wrote:
>
> > On May 14, 2:47 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> > wrote:
>
> > >...and some of my ideas made it into space.
>
> > I think we have all heard that many times. If you were half as smart
> > as you think...you wouldn't have bothered to respond, would you?
> > You remind me of another anal retentive engineer BillW50. God checks-
> > in with him also...when He's stumped!
>
> Don't you have a plugged up toilet calling for your expert help?
>
> --
> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
> Teflon coated.

If you're the same "Michael A. Terrell, Jr." that works for Chrysler I
pity you if your bosses see how immature you are in your responses
here.
This surely applies to you.."I'm a strong relationship builder with
solid leadership skills." From your LinkedIn.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:30 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bob Villa wrote:
>
> On May 14, 7:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Bob Villa wrote:
> >
> > > On May 14, 2:47 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > >...and some of my ideas made it into space.
> >
> > > I think we have all heard that many times. If you were half as smart
> > > as you think...you wouldn't have bothered to respond, would you?
> > > You remind me of another anal retentive engineer BillW50. God checks-
> > > in with him also...when He's stumped!
> >
> > Don't you have a plugged up toilet calling for your expert help?
>
> If you're the same "Michael A. Terrell, Jr." that works for Chrysler I
> pity you if your bosses see how immature you are in your responses
> here.

If you think it's me, tell Chrysler about it. Of course, if you
actually knew anything about computers you would know what part of the
county I'm in, junior.

> This surely applies to you.."I'm a strong relationship builder with
> solid leadership skills." From your LinkedIn.

I see your search skill suck, too. Typical of a low grade troll, who
brags about doing substandard repairs.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:31 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bob Villa wrote:
>
> On May 14, 7:41 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Bob Villa wrote:
> >
> > > On May 14, 2:47 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > >...and some of my ideas made it into space.
> >
> > > I think we have all heard that many times. If you were half as smart
> > > as you think...you wouldn't have bothered to respond, would you?
> > > You remind me of another anal retentive engineer BillW50. God checks-
> > > in with him also...when He's stumped!
> >
> > Don't you have a plugged up toilet calling for your expert help.
>
> I'm working on it...but your immense head won't pass.

That's what your mother was screaming, just before the doctor used a
36" pipe wrench to pull your sorry ass out of her. Too bad about your
brain damage, troll.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Zimo DCC info ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93fbd838f0d4056e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 7:43 am
From: "N_Cook"

Geo <hw9j-s5hw@dea.spamcon.org> wrote in message
news:sa0ts6ttpom1frr8gj2bk7n23etrmbiirf@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 14 May 2011 09:09:15 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> >cannot find reference to these boards on zimo.at
> >
> >Has the same main connectors as this
> >Bachmann E-Z Command 8 Pin To 21 Pin Adaptor
> >http://images.nitrosell.com/product_images/11/2621/thumb-36-559.jpg
> >a bit bigger board plus outlet connectors, labelled on board, for LED1,
> >LED2, motor, R+ L- = rail pickups ?, Spk = speaker? and Aux1 which the
> >output of the 555 via the transitor goes to
> >
> >21 pinning seems to agree this
> >http://www.bobclay.co.uk/smalldcc/dcc33.jpg
> >
>
> Some connections here:-
> http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/21pin_plug_wiring_diagram-1.pdf
>
> Are you certain it is a Zimo board?

Thanks for that , looks like the pinning here, maybe not Zimo.
The owner is out of contact at the moment. There are 6 of these duff boards.
Each in a little plastic box , and one had some blurb folded and fitting
inside the box, that was about Zimo sound files/codes or something in
German. Badly assembled probably by hand pick and place of components but
mainly bad lead-free solder of pins under the 21 pin header.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:19 am
From: Geo

On Sat, 14 May 2011 15:43:56 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

>Thanks for that , looks like the pinning here, maybe not Zimo.
>The owner is out of contact at the moment. There are 6 of these duff boards.
>Each in a little plastic box , and one had some blurb folded and fitting
>inside the box, that was about Zimo sound files/codes or something in
>German. Badly assembled probably by hand pick and place of components but
>mainly bad lead-free solder of pins under the 21 pin header.
>

Could be something simple to operate flashing light?
e.g:-
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/FredDCC.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help with wiring colors on old headphones
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f8481990f5c47309?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:09 am
From: Tim Wescott

On 05/14/2011 04:54 AM, Patrick wrote:
> On 12:44 14 May 2011, Phil Allison wrote:
>
>>
>> "Patrick"
>>>
>>> I have some vinatge headphones (Sennheiser HD424) and want to attach a
>>> new
>>> plug.
>>>
>>> Which color wires are the positive ones?
>>>
>>> The colors in one of the leads are red& blue and in the other lead
>>> black& yellow. (No wire is used as screening - there's just two
>>> wires in each lead.)
>>
>>
>> ** Stick the damn phones on your fat head and connect pairs of wires
>> to a AA battery until you hear a click.
>>
>> Now you have your two pairs of wires.
>>
>> Wire them to a plug any way around you like and connect the same AA to
>> the common and both positives at the same time.
>>
>> If the click seems to comes from right inside your head - game over.
>>
>> If you need more explanation - you do not deserve it.
>>
>> ..... Phil
>
> The four wires are already grouped as two pairs, so we already know which
> two wires go together.
>
> I want to get the phasing right (even for headphones). I need to know
> which color wire in each pair is the positive.
>
> Are you familiar with decoding these red& blue and black& yellow
> headphone wires?
>
"If the click seems to come from right inside your head - game over".

What more do you need? Phil's given you a test to see if the phasing is
correct, can you not figure it out, or what to do if the click seems to
come from your right or your left?

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:09 am
From: "David Looser"

"Patrick" <invalid@invalid.com> wrote in message
news:Xns9EE58D9D9D2126AD265@69.16.185.252...
> On 13:07 14 May 2011, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>
>> In article <Xns9EE57F121FAB96AD265@69.16.185.252>,
>> Patrick <invalid@invalid.com> wrote:
>>> I have some vinatge headphones (Sennheiser HD424) and want to attach
>>> a new plug.
>>
>>> Which color wires are the positive ones?
>>
>>> The colors in one of the leads are red & blue and in the other lead
>>> black & yellow. (No wire is used as screening - there's just two
>>> wires in each lead.)
>>
>> Black and blue are the commons. Not that it would make any difference
>> if you commoned red and yellow.
>>
>> You can check for sure by unplugging the leads from each actual
>> earpiece (red and blue plugs), but be careful to pull on the actual
>> plug only. The pins are of slightly different sizes.
>>
>> Hope you have a source of the muffs for these - they crumble to dust
>> quite quickly.
>
> You must know the headphones well because I had long forgotten the leads
> plugged into the earpieces. I didn't realize the mini plugs were keyed to
> go in only one way around. With that info I could have continuity tested
> the colored leads to each of the larger pins on the plugs but you saved me
> doing that becauase you have given me the color coding too. Thank you.
>
> You're right about the muffs crumbling. I threw them out. First I'll see
> what the cans sound like now and then decide if it's worth getting new
> muffs.
>
> It's been instructive to see how many people misunderstood what the
> original question was trying to solve and they gave obviously useless, if
> not misleading, advice. It's never been the same since Eternal September.

Actually that's untrue, nobody misunderstood the question or gave useless or
misleading advice. And Phil is quite right, the effect of having the
headphones out of phase with each other is not at all subtle, it is at least
as obvious as it would be with speakers. Just because there is no phase
cancellation in the air doesn't mean that the brain is not immediately aware
of the phase difference heard in the two ears.

David.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:19 am
From: spamtrap1888

On May 14, 5:07 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk>
wrote:
> In article <Xns9EE57F121FAB96AD...@69.16.185.252>,
> Patrick <inva...@invalid.com> wrote:
>
> > I have some vinatge headphones (Sennheiser HD424)

>
> Hope you have a source of the muffs for these - they crumble to dust quite
> quickly.

Did anyone ever come up with muffs better than the OEM crap for these?
I have two or three bald pair at the back of the cabinet. I ordered
new muffs for one of these, once, at some amazing fraction of the cost
of a new set of headphones. (Hearing I had bought new muffs, a friend
pressed his on me. Frustrated, he had bought Koss headphones.)

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 12:30 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 May 2011 23:22:51 +1000, Phil Allison wrote:

> "Patrick is a Psycho ASSHOLE "
>
>> It's been instructive to see how many people misunderstood what the
>> original question was trying to solve and they gave obviously useless,
>> if not misleading, advice. It's never been the same since Eternal
>> September.
>
>
> ** Listen here - pal.
>
> You do not need any headphones worn over your ears - YOU need a fucking
> bullet between the ears.
>
> Same goes for the retarded bitch that bore you and the donkey that
> knocked her up.
>
> Never come back or I will really tear you apart.
>
>
>
> .... Phil

This type of threat should be forwarded to http://www.individual.net/

news@individual.net

with the entire header field including message ID.

There is no excuse for this type of venomous reply and most all
responsible news providers will terminate the responsible account
without question.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:33 pm
From: "amdx"

"Meat Plow" <mhywattt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2011.05.14.19.31.00@emutt.macspoofer.lmao...
> On Sat, 14 May 2011 23:22:51 +1000, Phil Allison wrote:
>
>> "Patrick is a Psycho ASSHOLE "
>>
>>> It's been instructive to see how many people misunderstood what the
>>> original question was trying to solve and they gave obviously useless,
>>> if not misleading, advice. It's never been the same since Eternal
>>> September.
>>
>>
>> ** Listen here - pal.
>>
>> You do not need any headphones worn over your ears - YOU need a fucking
>> bullet between the ears.
>>
>> Same goes for the retarded bitch that bore you and the donkey that
>> knocked her up.
>>
>> Never come back or I will really tear you apart.
>>
>>
>>
>> .... Phil
>
> This type of threat should be forwarded to http://www.individual.net/
>
> news@individual.net
>
> with the entire header field including message ID.

> There is no excuse for this type of venomous reply.....

Au Contraire, Phil is the excuse for this type of venomous reply.
Mikek
PS.
Patrick,
We do get some rather interesting diatribe from Phil, rarely with any good
reason.
Don't take it personal, he's not nice to anybody.
Phil has some issues he deals with, but when he answers an electronics or
audio
question he's most likely right.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Is MTS audio a victim of the latest cable company upgrading?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/60a2fa68004f3c17?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:14 am
From: "Deke"

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:qoSdnYEyRPh_r1PQnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> Deke wrote:
>>
>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:88WdndqCHO5q31HQnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>> >
>> > Deke wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Universal Cable rule # 1- They don't care about audio, or visual
>> >> quality,
>> >> and will always be geared to please the lowest common denominator.
>> >
>> >
>> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
>> >
>> >
>> >> Universal Cable rule # 2- Even if they DO have a high quality signal
>> >> available to them, they will compress/mangle it (1080i to 720i, 5.1 to
>> >> distorted L-R mono) to save bandwidth.
>> >
>> >
>> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
>> >
>> >
>> >>Universal Cable rule #3- Cable companies don't care if you have a
>> >>$10,000
>> >> home entertainment center. Can you see a picture? Good!, and can you
>> >> hear
>> >> it? Good!, will always be good enough for them.
>> >
>> >
>> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
>> >
>> >
>> >> Universal Cable rule #4- Charge maximum amount of money for the
>> >> poorest
>> >> choice of channels, with the worst possible signal quality. Increase
>> >> rates
>> >> at will.
>> >
>> >
>> > Rate increases must be approved by the franchising authority. They
>> > can not increase rates 'At will'.
>>
>> This solved all my problems, AND gave me a far superior DVR...
>> www.dishnetwork.com
>
>
> Tell me how well it works in heavy rain or fog. I have had outages
> of over three full days becasue of bad weather, but the local cable
> system worked after several hurricanes even though there was no
> electricity in the area for over a month.
>
Since my system was installed correctly, it works fine in heavy fog or rain.
I do lose signal when a squall line comes thru, but only for a couple
minutes.
After a 13 day power outage due to an ice storm, the system came right back
up
when power was restored.

> Who needs a DVR? There is life outside of watching TV. I spent over
> a year with no TV or internet last decade, and all I missed was the
> wether maps on the local TV news.
>
So? Your choice to live off the grid was your choice.
I choose to watch the TV shows I enjoy, minus the commercials, in HD.

>> Local Mediacom cable service is HORRIBLE.
>
>
> --
> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-AidT on it, because it's
> Teflon coated.

Indeed.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:17 am
From: "Deke"

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:88WdndqCHO5q31HQnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> Deke wrote:
>>
>> Universal Cable rule # 1- They don't care about audio, or visual
>> quality,
>> and will always be geared to please the lowest common denominator.
>
>
> File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
>
>
>> Universal Cable rule # 2- Even if they DO have a high quality signal
>> available to them, they will compress/mangle it (1080i to 720i, 5.1 to
>> distorted L-R mono) to save bandwidth.
>
>
> File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
>
>
>>Universal Cable rule #3- Cable companies don't care if you have a $10,000
>> home entertainment center. Can you see a picture? Good!, and can you
>> hear
>> it? Good!, will always be good enough for them.
>
>
> File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
>
>
>> Universal Cable rule #4- Charge maximum amount of money for the poorest
>> choice of channels, with the worst possible signal quality. Increase
>> rates
>> at will.
>
>
> Rate increases must be approved by the franchising authority. They
> can not increase rates 'At will'.
>
>

But they CAN, and do increase rates for equipment fees, rental fees, service
fees,
and anything else that doesn't involve programming.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:21 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Deke wrote:
>
> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:qoSdnYEyRPh_r1PQnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> >
> > Deke wrote:
> >>
> >> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> >> news:88WdndqCHO5q31HQnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> >> >
> >> > Deke wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> Universal Cable rule # 1- They don't care about audio, or visual
> >> >> quality,
> >> >> and will always be geared to please the lowest common denominator.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Universal Cable rule # 2- Even if they DO have a high quality signal
> >> >> available to them, they will compress/mangle it (1080i to 720i, 5.1 to
> >> >> distorted L-R mono) to save bandwidth.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >>Universal Cable rule #3- Cable companies don't care if you have a
> >> >>$10,000
> >> >> home entertainment center. Can you see a picture? Good!, and can you
> >> >> hear
> >> >> it? Good!, will always be good enough for them.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >> Universal Cable rule #4- Charge maximum amount of money for the
> >> >> poorest
> >> >> choice of channels, with the worst possible signal quality. Increase
> >> >> rates
> >> >> at will.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > Rate increases must be approved by the franchising authority. They
> >> > can not increase rates 'At will'.
> >>
> >> This solved all my problems, AND gave me a far superior DVR...
> >> www.dishnetwork.com
> >
> >
> > Tell me how well it works in heavy rain or fog. I have had outages
> > of over three full days becasue of bad weather, but the local cable
> > system worked after several hurricanes even though there was no
> > electricity in the area for over a month.
> >
> Since my system was installed correctly, it works fine in heavy fog or rain.
> I do lose signal when a squall line comes thru, but only for a couple
> minutes.

Big deal. It isn't a problem in your area, but it is in others.

> After a 13 day power outage due to an ice storm, the system came right back
> up when power was restored.

Installed properly? Sigh. I installed the dish and wiring. The
drone from dish turned on the account. I installed, upgraded and aimed
5 meter dishes at CATV headends and TV stations. I worked for Microdyne
who built the commercial grade equipment. A 'Dish' or Direct TV'
antenna is designed to be installed by anyone with a pair of pliers.

> > Who needs a DVR? There is life outside of watching TV. I spent over
> > a year with no TV or internet last decade, and all I missed was the
> > wether maps on the local TV news.
> >
> So? Your choice to live off the grid was your choice.

What are you smoking? I am not living 'Off grid'

> I choose to watch the TV shows I enjoy, minus the commercials, in HD.

Learn to ignore them. I did, when i started working as a TV
broadcast engineer in 1973. There is no programming worth it to me to
record to a DVR. If there was, I would build one out of a spare
computer. It doesn't take much of a computer these days:

From http://www.mythbuntu.org/

Minimum System Requirements:

1.0 GHz x86 or x86_64 Processor
192 MB of system memory (RAM)
2 GB of disk space (Frontend Role)
20 GB of disk space (Backend Role)
Graphics card capable of 1024x768 resolution
Supported TV Tuner Card (Backend Role)
Recommended System Requirements:

2.0 Ghz x86 or x86_64 Processor
2GB MB of system memory (RAM)
10 GB disk space (Frontend Role)
160 GB+ disk space (Backend Role)
nVidia 8xxx+ 256MB+ Graphics Card
Supported TV Tuner Card (Backend Role)

I have all of this laying around as spare parts.

> >> Local Mediacom cable service is HORRIBLE.

Not my problem. I used to work in Cable TV in Cincinnati, Ohio at
the top rated system in the region. I maintained the headend for that
system, and 35 other systems across the country.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:27 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Deke wrote:
>
> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:88WdndqCHO5q31HQnZ2dnUVZ_hOdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> >
> > Deke wrote:
> >>
> >> Universal Cable rule # 1- They don't care about audio, or visual
> >> quality,
> >> and will always be geared to please the lowest common denominator.
> >
> >
> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
> >
> >
> >> Universal Cable rule # 2- Even if they DO have a high quality signal
> >> available to them, they will compress/mangle it (1080i to 720i, 5.1 to
> >> distorted L-R mono) to save bandwidth.
> >
> >
> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
> >
> >
> >>Universal Cable rule #3- Cable companies don't care if you have a $10,000
> >> home entertainment center. Can you see a picture? Good!, and can you
> >> hear
> >> it? Good!, will always be good enough for them.
> >
> >
> > File a complaint with the FCC at FCCInfo@fcc.gov
> >
> >
> >> Universal Cable rule #4- Charge maximum amount of money for the poorest
> >> choice of channels, with the worst possible signal quality. Increase
> >> rates
> >> at will.
> >
> >
> > Rate increases must be approved by the franchising authority. They
> > can not increase rates 'At will'.
> >
> >
>
> But they CAN, and do increase rates for equipment fees, rental fees, service
> fees, and anything else that doesn't involve programming.

Sigh. You need to learn what a 'CATV Franchise' means. I was in
that business. The only time a equipment fee wasn't regulated was when
a new piece of hardware was introduced. Any badly damaged or missing
equipment could be billed at full replacement costs, plus all other
incurred expenses. My dad had Dish a couple years ago. The day his
first year contract was up he received a letter from Dish telling him
they were going to sue him if they didn't get their equipment back
within 10 days. No mention of renewing the contract, just threats. I
boxed it up and dropped it off at the Post Office for him, while he was
calling Direct TV for service. He's been with them for more than five
years now.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: another puzzler
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b80657d8be4c22cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 8:55 am
From: "David"

"Trevor" wrote in message
news:4dce2d98$0$2443$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

"David" <someone@somewhere.com> wrote in message
news:iqk5jt$jn1$1@dont-email.me...
> "William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
> news:iqk4b0$cop$1@dont-email.me...
>
>> But by not switching doors, you are ignoring the new
>> information that the
>> prize has to be behind one of the other two doors....
>
> No, it doesn't. That's not correct.
>
>> You are sticking with
>> your original guess that had only a 1/3 chance of being right.
>> By
> switching
>> doors, you are including the new information that the prize
>> has to be
> behind
>> one of the other two doors, and your new chance of winning is
>> 50%.
>
> No, it doesn't. Your new chance of winning is 2/3.
>
> ***
> This is similar to another puzzle. A couple has two children.
> What is the probability that the second is a boy? The couple
> then volunteers that they are not both girls. Now what is the
> probability the second is a boy?
>
> The first case is 1/2. The second case is 2/3.

Wrong, on a purely statistical basis the first case is 50:50, BB,
BG, GB, or
GG. Two out of four meet the criteria.
The second case is 50:50 Boy or Girl, One out of two meets the
criteria.

<snip>
Trevor.

The second case is: BB, BG, GB. The couple told you the GG case
does not exist.
Get it now? The goat problem has similar probability outcome
changes.

David

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Oven thermostat question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3bb00d42a18f12f2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 10:07 am
From: Jesse

news@jecarter.us wrote in
news:r4crs61s51unc56lcmp2r9o9vpun4bkgf8@4ax.com:

> On Fri, 13 May 2011 21:55:13 GMT, Jesse <jesse@nospam.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Would anyone happen to know, in a typical oven thermostat
>>set at say 350 degrees, when it would usually kick on? At
>>345? At 340? Lower?

<snip>

> Unlikely to be better than +/- 5% (17 deg). Possibly no
> better than +/- 10% (35 deg)...

Thanks. I appreciate your taking the time to respond.

Jesse

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 10:09 am
From: Jesse

mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
news:fllrs6po3jvjfl9lqv9r4dg4gij729fisi@4ax.com:

> I don't konw if this helps, but you can adjust the electric
> oven control on GE and probably all electric ovens now.
> For non-electroncially controlled ovens, I'm sure the
> method is the same for all of them -- it's part of the
> operating instructions for each model --, and I'll bet
> there's a method for electronically controlled too. It
> would be a step backwards if there weren't.

It makes sense that new models would be better, but I'm not
sure it would have occurred to me if you handn't troubled to
respond.

Thanks for the help.

Jesse

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 11:17 am
From: mm

On Sat, 14 May 2011 17:09:04 GMT, Jesse <jesse@nospam.com> wrote:

>mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote in
>news:fllrs6po3jvjfl9lqv9r4dg4gij729fisi@4ax.com:
>
>> On Fri, 13 May 2011 21:55:13 GMT, Jesse <jesse@nospam.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Would anyone happen to know, in a typical oven thermostat
>>>set at say 350 degrees, when it would usually kick on? At
>>>345? At 340? Lower?
>
>
>> I don't konw if this helps, but you can adjust the electric
>> oven control on GE and probably all electric ovens now.

LOL at myself. By "now" I meant as opposed to 31+ years ago. I'm
not even sure about then, but my oven from only 30 years ago, that I
just replaced because of a grease fire, could have the temperature
calibrated by the owner, with a simple screwdriver.

And my "new" oven from 20 years ago, also non-digital, also had the
instructions in owners manual. What about microwave ovens? I'll
start a new thread.

>> For non-electroncially controlled ovens, I'm sure the
>> method is the same for all of them -- it's part of the
>> operating instructions for each model --, and I'll bet
>> there's a method for electronically controlled too. It
>> would be a step backwards if there weren't.
>
>It makes sense that new models would be better, but I'm not
>sure it would have occurred to me if you handn't troubled to
>respond.

That's very nice. Glad to hear it.

>Thanks for the help.

You're welcome.

>Jesse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Peavey PV2000 slave amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9121270861344413?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 7:47 am
From: "N_Cook"

At least these amps have separate LV DC supplies and the biasing part can be
probed out of casing , powered from +/-15V bench ps without +/-92V around

TO92 60V, 0.6A , 9V on one end of the 47K base resistor and 8mV on the
other. Checks out DVM diode test and no obvious DVM resistance between pins.
Now removed can see ,under x30, slight build up of corrossion crud where the
legs enter the plastic, marginally more than the layer of corrossion over
the rest of the legs.
I will let the owner see the result under pocket magnifier , that and bill
might change his storage arrangements.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 12:24 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 14 May 2011 15:47:18 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> At least these amps have separate LV DC supplies and the biasing part
> can be probed out of casing , powered from +/-15V bench ps without
> +/-92V around
>
> TO92 60V, 0.6A , 9V on one end of the 47K base resistor and 8mV on the
> other. Checks out DVM diode test and no obvious DVM resistance between
> pins. Now removed can see ,under x30, slight build up of corrossion crud
> where the legs enter the plastic, marginally more than the layer of
> corrossion over the rest of the legs.
> I will let the owner see the result under pocket magnifier , that and
> bill might change his storage arrangements.

Some people just don't realize that electronics of this type really need
to be stored in a climate controlled storage unit.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Can a microwave oven have its output imited?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/956ea2dbdf891e16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 11:35 am
From: mm

Can a microwave oven have its output controlled, limited, by something
like adjusting the AGC on a TV? Or on combo devices, radio,
cassette, CD, tv, there is usually a pot on each of those, adjusted so
the volume stays the same when one changes functions.

I didn't like my old small microwave oven because it was so small, and
I also had to cook longer than instructions said, because it was low
power. (So I was in the habit of mulitplying the time given by 1.1 or
1.3, but I was hoping not to have to do that anymore.)

Now I have a new, one-year old, full-size Sharp microwave -- I can
provide the model number if it matters -- and it is too powerful.
Things cooked in their packages according to instructions have their
water boiling over and taking some of the food with it, and I presume
other food is being cooked more than instructions or recipes call for.

It has a power control that will lower the power by 10% for every push
of the button, but I would have to use that button every time.

Is there any chance I can turn the full power down by 10%, for every
use?

(As an aside, it's interesting that on 90% power, for example, I can
tell when the microwave part is functioning because it makes more
noise during the 90% than the 10% of the time. The old no-name-brand
only had one other power level, Defrost, but it made the same noise
all the time, and to see how much of the time it was making heat, I
had to turn on a nearby AM radio and tune to a weak or no station, and
listen to the radiation from the microwave.)

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 12:39 pm
From: news@jecarter.us

On Sat, 14 May 2011 14:35:51 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

>Can a microwave oven have its output controlled, limited, by something
>like adjusting the AGC on a TV? Or on combo devices, radio,
>cassette, CD, tv, there is usually a pot on each of those, adjusted so
>the volume stays the same when one changes functions.
>
>I didn't like my old small microwave oven because it was so small, and
>I also had to cook longer than instructions said, because it was low
>power. (So I was in the habit of mulitplying the time given by 1.1 or
>1.3, but I was hoping not to have to do that anymore.)
>
>Now I have a new, one-year old, full-size Sharp microwave -- I can
>provide the model number if it matters -- and it is too powerful.
>Things cooked in their packages according to instructions have their
>water boiling over and taking some of the food with it, and I presume
>other food is being cooked more than instructions or recipes call for.
>
>It has a power control that will lower the power by 10% for every push
>of the button, but I would have to use that button every time.
>
>Is there any chance I can turn the full power down by 10%, for every
>use?
>
>(As an aside, it's interesting that on 90% power, for example, I can
>tell when the microwave part is functioning because it makes more
>noise during the 90% than the 10% of the time. The old no-name-brand
>only had one other power level, Defrost, but it made the same noise
>all the time, and to see how much of the time it was making heat, I
>had to turn on a nearby AM radio and tune to a weak or no station, and
>listen to the radiation from the microwave.)

The "power control" is a "per cent on" control. 90% for one minute
means the unit runs at full power for .9 * 60 seconds or 54 seconds,
usually in semi-equal segments such as on 18 seconds, off 2 seconds or
on 9 seconds, off 1 second.

John

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:35 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

mm wrote:
>
> Can a microwave oven have its output controlled, limited, by something
> like adjusting the AGC on a TV? Or on combo devices, radio,
> cassette, CD, tv, there is usually a pot on each of those, adjusted so
> the volume stays the same when one changes functions.
>
> I didn't like my old small microwave oven because it was so small, and
> I also had to cook longer than instructions said, because it was low
> power. (So I was in the habit of mulitplying the time given by 1.1 or
> 1.3, but I was hoping not to have to do that anymore.)
>
> Now I have a new, one-year old, full-size Sharp microwave -- I can
> provide the model number if it matters -- and it is too powerful.
> Things cooked in their packages according to instructions have their
> water boiling over and taking some of the food with it, and I presume
> other food is being cooked more than instructions or recipes call for.
>
> It has a power control that will lower the power by 10% for every push
> of the button, but I would have to use that button every time.
>
> Is there any chance I can turn the full power down by 10%, for every
> use?

Can you write code for the microprocessor in the control panel? The
power function is hard coded into the controller.

> (As an aside, it's interesting that on 90% power, for example, I can
> tell when the microwave part is functioning because it makes more
> noise during the 90% than the 10% of the time.

That is a form of 'Pulse Width Modulation'.

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:47 pm
From: mm

On Sat, 14 May 2011 16:35:53 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
>mm wrote:
>>
>> Can a microwave oven have its output controlled, limited, by something
>> like adjusting the AGC on a TV? Or on combo devices, radio,
>> cassette, CD, tv, there is usually a pot on each of those, adjusted so
>> the volume stays the same when one changes functions.
>>
>> I didn't like my old small microwave oven because it was so small, and
>> I also had to cook longer than instructions said, because it was low
>> power. (So I was in the habit of mulitplying the time given by 1.1 or
>> 1.3, but I was hoping not to have to do that anymore.)
>>
>> Now I have a new, one-year old, full-size Sharp microwave -- I can
>> provide the model number if it matters -- and it is too powerful.
>> Things cooked in their packages according to instructions have their
>> water boiling over and taking some of the food with it, and I presume
>> other food is being cooked more than instructions or recipes call for.
>>
>> It has a power control that will lower the power by 10% for every push
>> of the button, but I would have to use that button every time.

I can see how this is ambiguous.
>>
>> Is there any chance I can turn the full power down by 10%, for every
>> use?
>
>
> Can you write code for the microprocessor in the control panel? The

No. :(

>power function is hard coded into the controller.

I didn't have in mind changing the power function, but changing the
circuit that makes the microwaves. Maybe at the stage at or just
before the microwave tube. So they would be weaker. By changing
the bias on the output transistor, or something like that. I was
hoping there might be a pot there already.

The power function would still work, turning the radiation on X% of
the time and off 100-X% of the time.

>
>> (As an aside, it's interesting that on 90% power, for example, I can
>> tell when the microwave part is functioning because it makes more
>> noise during the 90% than the 10% of the time.
>
>
> That is a form of 'Pulse Width Modulation'.

Good to know.

Thanks.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How to make antenna for a Weather Radio
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db4f2a9fbbc88e5a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, May 14 2011 1:46 pm
From: JoseGomez@dotcom.com

I got a Midland WR-100 weather radio. Because I live in a metal sided
house, the reception is poor. On the back there is a RCA jack for
external antenna. I can easily make up a piece of coax with a RCA
jack on the end, but what should I use for an antenna. I'd prefer to
make something simple out of wire, such a a straight piece of wire or
dipole type wire, strung under the roof of my deck, or a piece of
stiff wire pointing upward. I do have some old CB car antennas that I
could modify too, and mount them on the deck or rain gutter. I know I
could likely buy something, but I'd like to keep the cost down. I'm
not needing to boost the signal as much as to just get the signal from
the outside into the house due to the metal siding.

Simple and cheap are what I want.
And redardless of that I use, can I use common TV antenna type coax,
or do I need the stuff that was used for CB radios. (I dont recall
the numbers used on them, but know they were not the same).

Thanks in advance.

==============================================================================

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