http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Convert Tuner to Batteries? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0ac9d8f25222e77c?hl=en
* Cordless phone battery pack - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3e30b6d78d33668?hl=en
* small battery - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1a957cbd763fd227?hl=en
* No remote control? Fixable? - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d9bb7630abdbb00e?hl=en
* Converting 1960s Fender amp for 240V UK use - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8121797246a1f45?hl=en
* Word Perfect 5.1 for Dos - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de8787fca0021f4e?hl=en
* OT - postings not appearing? long delays? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4435aaafabee353b?hl=en
* Power Wheelchair Controller Hacking - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8aaed15225cebf63?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Convert Tuner to Batteries?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0ac9d8f25222e77c?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 10:39 am
From: PlainBill@yawhoo.com
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:28:59 -0700 (PDT), KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>Would like to convert a component AM/FM Tuner to batteries.
>
>Was told about the Sony Tuners with System Control that are DC only
>and found a ST-JX 235 but not the integrated amp that has the AC power
>supply.
>
>Does anyone know if there is a free schematic avail for this tuner on
>the internet?
>
>Did a quick search using Sony HCD-551 and SA-W551 but only found Sony
>Original Service Manual HCD551 / HCD-551 http://www.qservice.tv/VPASP/shopexd.asp?id=5249
>for $14.99
>
>All I want is the DC Voltage for the Tuner so not to destroy anything.
>
>When opened the tuner and inspected the System Control connector and
>attached small PC board noticed that it was marked N9V.
>
>Does this mean that the Voltage to the Tuner is 9V?
>
>Am open to any suggestions or tips.
>
>Thanks
>
>Ken
The HCD-551 Service Manual and SA-W551 Service manual are available on
Elektrotanya.
http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&megnev=&megnev2=HCD-551&kategoria=&kat2=all
http://elektrotanya.com/?q=showresult&megnev=&megnev2=SA-W551&kategoria=&kat2=all
PlainBill
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cordless phone battery pack
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d3e30b6d78d33668?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 12:56 pm
From: "Charlie"
"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-7B82A3.10053430062011@news.eternal-september.org...
> In article <gr9p0717iepf8ejaggkf84is0h2uja0n8n@4ax.com>,
> Puddin' Man <puddingDOTman@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I've a RS 5.8ghz cordless phone with a dead battery pack:
>> D-AA600BX3 DC 3.6V 600mAh
>>
>> Replacement battery-packs at DC 3.6V aren't too expensive, but I've not
>> seen
>> any at exactly 600mAh. Is this critical? Would, say, 800mAh work OK?
>> Pardon
>> my lack of knowledge.
>>
>
> It will work and theoretically last 33% longer between charges.
Think of mAh as if it were the breaking strength of a rope in pounds.
You want to lift a load that weighs 500 pounds.
The instructions say that the rope should be rated at 600 pounds.
So know let's rephrase your question.
Is a rope that is rated at 800 pounds ok to use?
As that gal from Alaska would say "You betcha"
Charlie
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 2:27 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Puddin' Man wrote:
>
> I've a RS 5.8ghz cordless phone with a dead battery pack:
> D-AA600BX3 DC 3.6V 600mAh
>
> Replacement battery-packs at DC 3.6V aren't too expensive, but I've not seen
> any at exactly 600mAh. Is this critical? Would, say, 800mAh work OK? Pardon
> my lack of knowledge.
The original is availible on Ebay, starting at about $5.
--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:00 pm
From: Puddin' Man
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:27:53 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>
>Puddin' Man wrote:
>>
>> I've a RS 5.8ghz cordless phone with a dead battery pack:
>> D-AA600BX3 DC 3.6V 600mAh
>>
>> Replacement battery-packs at DC 3.6V aren't too expensive, but I've not seen
>> any at exactly 600mAh. Is this critical? Would, say, 800mAh work OK? Pardon
>> my lack of knowledge.
>
>
> The original is availible on Ebay, starting at about $5.
>
><http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=D-AA600BX3&_sacat=See-All-Categories>
Ahhh. I forgot about Ebay.
I just ordered one.
Many thanks to all respondents.
Skoal,
P
"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
==============================================================================
TOPIC: small battery
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1a957cbd763fd227?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 2:08 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"
On Jun 28, 8:10 pm, t...@att.net wrote:
> Needing to find an way to power an device that 110 volt transformer in
> put reduced to an 0.5 v -2a out put. Wanting to power this device from
> an small battery. any thoughts how I can do this??? Thanks Rick
For starters, are you saying the wall-wart reduced 120V AC down to
0.5V with a current of 2 amperes, DC?
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 5:04 pm
From: whit3rd
If you get a Peltier cooler, and heat one side while applying
a flow of air to a heatsink on the other side, it will put out low
DC voltage at high-ish current. Into the right kind of load.
So, that'll work from any battery that can heat a resistor and
maybe run a coolling fan.
Well, you DID say 'any thoughts'.
Seriously, do you have any accuracy requirements? AC or DC?
Any preference on battery type (palletload of lead/acid, or
single hearing aid cell)? Duty cycle? Battery life under load?
==============================================================================
TOPIC: No remote control? Fixable?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d9bb7630abdbb00e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 5:02 pm
From: mm
On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 22:05:54 -0400, Rich Webb
<bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:
>On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 21:18:43 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
>>My Philips DVDR, model DVDR3576H (160 GB), only 3 years old, stopped
>>responding to my remote.
>>
>>Replaced the batteries. No better.
>>
>>Used the universal remote that doesn't have all the commands, only
>>on/off, numbers, play, stop, etc. No better. That remote still
>>works fine with a tv it's also set up for. (Up for which it's also
>>set.)
>
>If you changed transmitters (remotes) and the problem stayed with the
>receiver (DVDR) then the problem is most likely with the DVDR, not the
>remotes.
>
>AFAIK, most IR receivers use pulses (of various encoding schemes)
>modulating a carrier of something near 38 KHz. If the receiver module
>has croaked, there are replacements.
>
>Lots of the receiver modules look like
><http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=751-1385-5-ND>
>some like
><http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=425-2022-ND>
>or
><http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=425-1994-ND>
>
>While it's best to match the transmitter's carrier frequency with the
>center of the bandpass on the receiver, the receivers are generally
>fairly forgiving. That's why the "universal" remotes are effective, too.
Well, I can certainly replace this part. I hope that's it. Thanks.
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 6:18 pm
From: Rich Webb
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 20:02:27 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 22:05:54 -0400, Rich Webb
><bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 21:18:43 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>>
>>>My Philips DVDR, model DVDR3576H (160 GB), only 3 years old, stopped
>>>responding to my remote.
>>>
>>>Replaced the batteries. No better.
>>>
>>>Used the universal remote that doesn't have all the commands, only
>>>on/off, numbers, play, stop, etc. No better. That remote still
>>>works fine with a tv it's also set up for. (Up for which it's also
>>>set.)
>>
>>If you changed transmitters (remotes) and the problem stayed with the
>>receiver (DVDR) then the problem is most likely with the DVDR, not the
>>remotes.
>>
>>AFAIK, most IR receivers use pulses (of various encoding schemes)
>>modulating a carrier of something near 38 KHz. If the receiver module
>>has croaked, there are replacements.
>>
>>Lots of the receiver modules look like
>><http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=751-1385-5-ND>
>>some like
>><http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=425-2022-ND>
>>or
>><http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=425-1994-ND>
>>
>>While it's best to match the transmitter's carrier frequency with the
>>center of the bandpass on the receiver, the receivers are generally
>>fairly forgiving. That's why the "universal" remotes are effective, too.
>
>Well, I can certainly replace this part. I hope that's it. Thanks.
If you have access to a 'scope *and* can get to the legs of the receiver
module, you may try probing it to see what kind of output you get. The
ones I've seen have power, ground, and an open collector output that may
or may not have an internal pull-up.
--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 7:29 pm
From: mm
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 07:52:05 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
>On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 21:18:43 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>My Philips DVDR, model DVDR3576H (160 GB), only 3 years old, stopped
>>responding to my remote.
>
>Replacement remotes are commonly available. Google is your friend:
><http://www.philips.newremotecontrol.com/catalog_item.php?catnum=996510003026>
><http://cgi.ebay.com/380323646523>
>Probably also available from other vendors, ebay, Amazon, etc.
>
>>Replaced the batteries. No better.
>
>Find a digital camera. Point it at the remote and press some buttons.
>Do you see the LED's flash? If not, it's dead. If yes, it's not the
>remote.
><http://www.wikihow.com/Check-if-a-Remote-Control-is-Transmitting-an-Infrared-Signal>
Thanks. Both remotes show up in the viewfinder, with a round
blueish-red pulsing light when any button is pressed.
>One posting mumbled that it might be the IR receiver:
><http://www.justanswer.com/electronics/3ikm1-philips-dvdr3576h-37-recorder-its-remote-no-longer-communicate.html>
>Since it sorta works with the universal remote, this is unlikely.
FWIW, it was the original remote, that only works with this one
device. But except for 2 numbers received once, neither remote has
any effect.
Are you distingishing the IR receiver from the rest of its circuit?
>You might also have some programming issue as the remote MIGHT support
>two different DVR's (A/B). See manual for details (I'm too lazy to
>read it).
The factory remote doesn't support any other device. (Even though
it's only a 4 year old design, based on a 7 year old original design.)
Thanks again.
>>(The remote has nothing
>>to do with any logic circuits that can get confused, anyhow, right?)
>
>Wrong. The A/B problem is common.
>
>>Is this fixable at a reasaonable price, or even under 100?
>
>$12 to $25 for a replacement remote.
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:58 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:29:18 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:
>Are you distingishing the IR receiver from the rest of its circuit?
Yes. The front end (IR detector, amplifier, BPF, wave shaping)
circuit is usually integrated into something like this:
<http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049727>
<http://www.google.com/search?q=ir+receiver+module&tbm=isch>
I don't know what's inside the DVDR3576H but it will probably be
something similar. You should be able to connect an oscilloscope to
the output, and see pulses generated by the remote. You can also take
an IR receiver module, and turn it into an IR remote tester. Build up
a circuit to supply power and connect to the output to a scope.
However, it still might NOT be the remote, since you can see the IR
with a digital camera. I question whether it's the IR detector module
since you claim:
"Used the universal remote that doesn't have all the
commands, only on/off, numbers, play, stop, etc. No better."
Since the DVDR3576H works with the universal remote, it can't be the
IR receiver. You have a partial contradiction here, which makes
little sense.
One remote possiblity is that the remote has drifted in frequency
sufficiently to make it unreliable. You would still see the output on
the digital camera, but since it's off frequency, it won't control the
DVR. Can the original remote operate any OTHER device besides the
DVR? You did mention that the universal remote was able to control
other devices, so I'll declare that one working.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 10:11 pm
From: mm
On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 20:58:26 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
>On Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:29:18 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Are you distingishing the IR receiver from the rest of its circuit?
>
>Yes. The front end (IR detector, amplifier, BPF, wave shaping)
>circuit is usually integrated into something like this:
><http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049727>
><http://www.google.com/search?q=ir+receiver+module&tbm=isch>
>I don't know what's inside the DVDR3576H but it will probably be
>something similar. You should be able to connect an oscilloscope to
>the output, and see pulses generated by the remote. You can also take
>an IR receiver module, and turn it into an IR remote tester. Build up
>a circuit to supply power and connect to the output to a scope.
>
>However, it still might NOT be the remote, since you can see the IR
>with a digital camera. I question whether it's the IR detector module
>since you claim:
> "Used the universal remote that doesn't have all the
> commands, only on/off, numbers, play, stop, etc. No better."
"No better" than the factory remote worked. That is, it didn't work.
Sorry.
>Since the DVDR3576H works with the universal remote, it can't be the
>IR receiver. You have a partial contradiction here, which makes
>little sense.
I don't know why I specified what commands the thing had when it
worked.
The universal does work fine with a TV that it is also set up for.
Maybe that's what misled you.
>One remote possiblity is that the remote has drifted in frequency
>sufficiently to make it unreliable.
It was working fine until it wasnt' working at all, except for those 2
singles-digit numbers in the middle of loads of unsuccssful testing.
Where I held the button down for a long time, though I've done that
too plenty of times without getting anything. Maybe I should hit the
thing. :)
> You would still see the output on
>the digital camera, but since it's off frequency, it won't control the
>DVR. Can the original remote operate any OTHER device besides the
>DVR?
No. Only designed for this one thing.
> You did mention that the universal remote was able to control
>other devices, so I'll declare that one working.
:) Okay, but not for the DVDR.
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 10:19 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Fri, 01 Jul 2011 01:11:00 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:
>"No better" than the factory remote worked. That is, it didn't work.
>Sorry.
Ok. Then the problem is in the DVR and probably the IR receiver
module. Drag out the oscilloscope and dive in. There's probably a
test point near the IR receiver module, or just check the leads for
data. This should be easy (famous last assumptions).
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Converting 1960s Fender amp for 240V UK use
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8121797246a1f45?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 6:53 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"Wild Bullshit Artist
>
> A proper step-down isolating transformer (not auto transformer buck types)
> would allow 120VAC operation, just the way it was made.
> Amp and guitar isolated.
** But that is NOT how such amps work in the USA.
Note the switch and the 0.047uF cap in the AC line to the amp - this is
the " polarity switch" and it connects the chassis to one or other side of
the AC supply via the cap. Users are meant to select the less noisy
position, which equates to the neutral conductor.
To duplicate this set up , the isolation stepdown tranny must have one side
of its secondary linked to the supply ground.
The only thing left " un-American " then is the frequency of 50Hz - which
WILL cause the power tranny to get rather hot.
> As long as the users of the amp don't plug in any line-operated
> accessories/equipment (patch to mixers etc) the amp should operate
> flawlessly.
** It will work fine even with them - you posturing ass.
> Any accessories (pedals etc) added between the guitar and amp should be
> battery powered only.
> Battery only.
> No exceptions.
** Total lunacy.
The amp will always be safer if the chassis is grounded.
> So.. a 5-6A? capacity (see the amp's fuse rating)
** A 300VA isolation stepdown tranny would be plenty.
.... Phil
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:16 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"
Speaking of bullshit:
... and the whores you rode in on.
You know all of this because you personally designed or reviewed/approved
every fuckin piece of audio-related equipment that any idiot may attempt to
attach to an amp.
Well, it seems you haven't.. or you might have a GD clue.. many PROPER
isolation transformers DO have a side to ground thru a high-value resistor.
Wow.. a transformer that generates heat? You complete dumbass.
Overheat - NO.
Use all the space you need to list all the electrical devices that DON'T
generate heat.
>Shame how so many OPs post entirely in meaningless generalisations.
>Means that is how they are thinking too.
>..... Always BITCHING UNBALANCED Phil
--
Cheers,
WB
.............
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:974nknFu4oU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Wild Bullshit Artist
>
>>
>> A proper step-down isolating transformer (not auto transformer buck
>> types) would allow 120VAC operation, just the way it was made.
>> Amp and guitar isolated.
>
> ** But that is NOT how such amps work in the USA.
>
> http://www.webphix.com/schematic%20heaven/www.schematicheaven.com/fenderamps/twin_reverb_ab763_schem.pdf
>
> Note the switch and the 0.047uF cap in the AC line to the amp - this is
> the " polarity switch" and it connects the chassis to one or other side
> of the AC supply via the cap. Users are meant to select the less noisy
> position, which equates to the neutral conductor.
>
> To duplicate this set up , the isolation stepdown tranny must have one
> side of its secondary linked to the supply ground.
>
> The only thing left " un-American " then is the frequency of 50Hz - which
> WILL cause the power tranny to get rather hot.
>
>
>> As long as the users of the amp don't plug in any line-operated
>> accessories/equipment (patch to mixers etc) the amp should operate
>> flawlessly.
>
> ** It will work fine even with them - you posturing ass.
>
>
>> Any accessories (pedals etc) added between the guitar and amp should be
>> battery powered only.
>> Battery only.
>> No exceptions.
>
> ** Total lunacy.
>
> The amp will always be safer if the chassis is grounded.
>
>
>> So.. a 5-6A? capacity (see the amp's fuse rating)
>
>
> ** A 300VA isolation stepdown tranny would be plenty.
>
>
> .... Phil
>
>
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 8:21 pm
From: "Phil Allison"
"Wild Bullshit Artist"
** WB is a raving, paranoid schizophrenic.
If he were not such a fucking asshole, one might feel a bit sorry for him.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> A proper step-down isolating transformer (not auto transformer buck types)
> would allow 120VAC operation, just the way it was made.
> Amp and guitar isolated.
** But that is NOT how such amps work in the USA.
Note the switch and the 0.047uF cap in the AC line to the amp - this is
the " polarity switch" and it connects the chassis to one or other side of
the AC supply via the cap. Users are meant to select the less noisy
position, which equates to the neutral conductor.
To duplicate this set up , the isolation stepdown tranny must have one side
of its secondary linked to the supply ground.
The only thing left " un-American " then is the frequency of 50Hz - which
WILL cause the power tranny to get rather hot.
> As long as the users of the amp don't plug in any line-operated
> accessories/equipment (patch to mixers etc) the amp should operate
> flawlessly.
** It will work fine even with them - you posturing ass.
> Any accessories (pedals etc) added between the guitar and amp should be
> battery powered only.
> Battery only.
> No exceptions.
** Total lunacy.
The amp will always be safer if the chassis is grounded.
> So.. a 5-6A? capacity (see the amp's fuse rating)
** A 300VA isolation stepdown tranny would be plenty.
.... Phil
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 12:15 am
From: "N_Cook"
Returning to plan A. What I think of as a lawnmower connector, 2 part outer
shell. Just space to mould in the existing US plug and fix in a third pin.
All demountable leaving the original cable and plug untouched, if so
required. Then either black nylon spiral wrap or heatshrink over the green
wire along the original cable. Satisfying the original brief but would be a
lot cheaper for him just having 2 core cable replaced with 3 core and 3 pin
plug, retained in the cab for any , unlikely, future USA based user.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Word Perfect 5.1 for Dos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/de8787fca0021f4e?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 7:53 pm
From: Sjouke Burry
klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
> operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
> files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
> on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
> completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
> primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's
> primary hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second
> computer's primary. Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under
> Win 98's Dos prompt? That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer? My
> other problem is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and
> which is also presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and
> so I can't install this on my new machine. So my other question is :
> does anyone know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its
> age now or if it is still available at all? Thanks very much for any
> assistance. Lenny
Why not copy the dos HD to a new disk?
Just make sure that you format it with format /u/s d:
so that the mbr and bootfiles are on it.
Oh and put a reasonable primary partition(<32gb) on it with fdisk first,
and delare it to be bootable.
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 7:18 am
From: Man-wai Chang
> I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
> operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
<http://www.libreofficeaustralia.org/ja/community/blog/planet/20101118/back-wordperfect-libwpd-090>
--
@~@ You have the right to remain silent.
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.2
^ ^ 22:11:01 up 1 day 6:34 0 users load average: 1.00 1.01 1.05
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_pubsvc/page_socsecu/sub_addressesa
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 7:27 am
From: Evan Platt
On Wed, 29 Jun 2011 23:33:40 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
<captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote:
>I presently have a computer that has a hard drive with Dos 6.2 as an
>operating system. I use Word Perfect 5.1 for all my customer billing
>files. This hard drive is failing. I have another computer with Win 98
>on it that is running fine. Before the drive with Dos on it fails
>completely I would like to install it in the second computer as a
>primary slave and copy my billing files to the second computer's
>primary hard drive. Then I have to re-install WP51 on to the second
>computer's primary. Does anyone know if WP5.1 for Dos will run under
>Win 98's Dos prompt? That is can I install it on a Win 98 computer? My
>other problem is that the copy of WP51 which is on 10 floppies and
>which is also presently on my first computer has gotten corrupted and
>so I can't install this on my new machine. So my other question is :
>does anyone know if WP51 is available as free or shareware due to its
>age now or if it is still available at all? Thanks very much for any
>assistance. Lenny
Have a read at http://www.columbia.edu/~em36/wpdos/
--
To reply via e-mail, remove The Obvious and .invalid from my e-mail address.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 7:29 am
From: Man-wai Chang
> Have a read at http://www.columbia.edu/~em36/wpdos/
This persons should make a copy of the website to maybe Google Sites, in
case the author would leave Columbia University.... :)
--
@~@ You have the right to remain silent.
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (x86_64 Ubuntu 9.10) Linux 2.6.39.2
^ ^ 22:26:01 up 1 day 6:49 0 users load average: 1.00 1.03 1.05
不借貸! 不詐騙! 不援交! 不打交! 不打劫! 不自殺! 請考慮綜援 (CSSA):
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT - postings not appearing? long delays?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4435aaafabee353b?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jun 30 2011 9:19 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper
On Jun 25, 10:29 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Robert Macy wrote:
>
> > Just me or is something wrong here?
>
> > An hour ago I posted a question to this group and still do not see it?
>
> > And the last activity I do see appears to be 2 days ago!
>
> > Has spam weighed down the internet that much or is something else
> > going on?
>
> Get a real news server. Google doesn't always send messages right
> away. Sometimes they never leave the spool. :(
>
> --
> It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.
It appears not. I posted something two days ago and I still don't see
it. In fact I haven't seen any new posts either. Lenny
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 5:21 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> On Jun 25, 10:29 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Robert Macy wrote:
> >
> > > Just me or is something wrong here?
> >
> > > An hour ago I posted a question to this group and still do not see it?
> >
> > > And the last activity I do see appears to be 2 days ago!
> >
> > > Has spam weighed down the internet that much or is something else
> > > going on?
> >
> > Get a real news server. Google doesn't always send messages right
> > away. Sometimes they never leave the spool. :(
> >
> > --
> > It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.
>
> It appears not. I posted something two days ago and I still don't see
> it. In fact I haven't seen any new posts either. Lenny
A lot of people are complaing about Google groups not updating
properly for the last week. There are other free or low cost news
servers availible. news:alt.free.newsservers is a newgroup that
discusses these servers.
Use http://groups.google.com/group/alt.free.newsservers/topics for
Google groups users.
--
It's easy to think outside the box, when you have a cutting torch.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 5:24 am
From: Jeffrey Angus
On 7/1/2011 7:21 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> A lot of people are complaing about Google groups not updating
> properly for the last week. There are other free or low cost news
> servers availible.
I recently switched to Eternal September
<http://www.eternal-september.org/index.php?showpage=NewUser&language=en>
Seems to be working just dandy.
Jeff
--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 5:34 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>There are other free or low cost news
> servers availible. news:alt.free.newsservers is a newgroup that
> discusses these servers.
Most of us never notice this anyway. Because of the low signal to noise ratio
(even for UseNet) we have all GoogleGroups postings go directly to the trash.
Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Making your enemy reliant on software you support is the best revenge.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Power Wheelchair Controller Hacking
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8aaed15225cebf63?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 5:19 am
From: Nelson
Has anyone here tried this? I'd like to find some information on how
to do it, schematics, etc. They all seem to be proprietary and I can't
find any documentation. Ideally, I'd like to interface the wheelchair
to something like an iPad.
--
Nelson
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 1 2011 7:58 am
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Fri, 1 Jul 2011 08:19:46 -0400, Nelson <nelson@nowhere.com> wrote:
>Has anyone here tried this? I'd like to find some information on how
>to do it, schematics, etc. They all seem to be proprietary and I can't
>find any documentation.
This patent application includes a detailed controller schematic.
<http://www.patsnap.com/patents/view/US6674256.html>
<http://www.google.com/patents?id=H8kCAAAAEBAJ>
There may be others.
>Ideally, I'd like to interface the wheelchair
>to something like an iPad.
Start with either the various robotics forums, or controller interface
forums:
<http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=hardware>
<http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1265918811>
<http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1229539904/all>
etc... Search for "wheelchair".
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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