sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Another clueless Google Grouper
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e863e51cfd20760?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Aug 26 2011 11:55 pm
From: Dave U. Random

JeffM <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in
<news:3a5818ea-4892-4da8-8458-474dc6c14922@gz5g2000vbb.googlegroups.com>:

> Chris wrote:
>>[...]will be more than happy to pay a fair price / fair market value
>>
> This group does NOT have in its name one of the following:
> forsale marketplace ads biz
> thus it is NOT the proper group for this.
>
> The charter for this group:
> http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics/msg/13651a897337a7a9?q=Charters+misc.industry.electronics.marketplace+Discussions+Advertisement-*-*+only.advertise+Techniques-for-*-*-*+sci.electronics.repair-Fixing-*-*+Annecdotes-*-*+*.rec.hierarchy+*.*.not.a.forsale.group+zz-zz+Discussion

A shorter URL:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics/msg/13651a897337a7a9

A shorter URL:
http://tinyurl.com/SERCharter

You're welcome.
.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:38 pm
From: Chris

Thanks Jeff,

Will keep this in-mind for future postings.

Chris

==============================================================================
TOPIC: JVC HRS-5967EK wont play tape
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c8a0e673f650759f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 4:22 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jack00 <SPal508596@aol.com> wrote in message
news:5c71f75c-3f92-4717-87d2-09173a81b3e3@i9g2000yqk.googlegroups.com...
> I have this VCR, when you insert a tape the guide poles move forward
> and then you get a ticking noise in the mechanism and motor.

Probably the spool drive jockey wheel/slip clutch assembly getting hooked up
on something

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Tek 465
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b9f473fde6856891?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 5:07 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

Just bought a Tek 2246 on the 'Bay. This means the 465 will probably need to
be sold, assuming the new one is OK and all.

I would entertain serious offers from the good folks who know me here on the
Group (USA only, please) prior to putting it up on eBay.

Probably about 175.00 plus freight.

Yes, this is the same 'scope Mr. Yanik helped me with recently. Replaced a
bad bridge rectifier.

Everything works great, bright sharp trace, no burns. Physical condition
very good, nothing bent or broken, minor scuffs around the case but not
involving the face. I have several versions of the manuals etc on PDF.

Any questions please ask.

Thanks.

Mark Z.

--
"I can't die until the government finds a safe place to bury my liver."

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 5:47 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 8/27/2011 7:07 AM, Mark Zacharias wrote:
> Just bought a Tek 2246 on the 'Bay. This means the 465 will probably
> need to be sold, assuming the new one is OK and all.

Watch out Mark, the policy gestapo will come gunning for you. ;-)

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 7:35 am
From: Jim Yanik

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net> wrote in
news:4e58de02$0$2960$a8266bb1@newsreader.readnews.com:

> Just bought a Tek 2246 on the 'Bay. This means the 465 will probably
> need to be sold, assuming the new one is OK and all.
>
> I would entertain serious offers from the good folks who know me here
> on the Group (USA only, please) prior to putting it up on eBay.
>
> Probably about 175.00 plus freight.
>
> Yes, this is the same 'scope Mr. Yanik helped me with recently.
> Replaced a bad bridge rectifier.
>
> Everything works great, bright sharp trace, no burns. Physical
> condition very good, nothing bent or broken, minor scuffs around the
> case but not involving the face. I have several versions of the
> manuals etc on PDF.
>
> Any questions please ask.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Mark Z.
>

I guess I better download a 2246 manual soon...... :-}

I've worked on them,but I'm not fond of them.
I don't know much about the microprocessor controls/digital section.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:15 am
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 8/27/2011 9:35 AM, Jim Yanik wrote:
> I guess I better download a 2246 manual soon...... :-}

*grins* You don't think Mark's going to break that right away do you?

Jeff

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:06 pm
From: Jamie

Mark Zacharias wrote:
> Just bought a Tek 2246 on the 'Bay. This means the 465 will probably
> need to be sold, assuming the new one is OK and all.
>
> I would entertain serious offers from the good folks who know me here on
> the Group (USA only, please) prior to putting it up on eBay.
>
> Probably about 175.00 plus freight.
>
> Yes, this is the same 'scope Mr. Yanik helped me with recently. Replaced
> a bad bridge rectifier.
>
> Everything works great, bright sharp trace, no burns. Physical condition
> very good, nothing bent or broken, minor scuffs around the case but not
> involving the face. I have several versions of the manuals etc on PDF.
>
> Any questions please ask.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Mark Z.
>
That's funny, I also have a 465 sitting collecting dust because it once
shorted the bridge rectifier and later on in its life, it did it again.

So I put it aside and started to use my other, better one..

Jamie

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cordless iron
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91454101da9b8198?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:09 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

The early Wellers (I still have mine, though I haven't used it in some time,
and don't know what the condition of the battery is) were perfectly okay for
light soldering. That was precisely the point -- in exchange for low output,
you got a cordless iron that couldn't electrically damage the components.
Which is why they called it "IsoTip".

If you expect to medium or heavier soldering away from a power line, the
propane -- I mean, butane (sorry, Hank) -- iron makes sense. For light
work -- especially small components -- the rechargeable iron makes sense.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hello Kitty Toaster
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/065df62b65ba7883?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:10 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Flop the bread halfway through the cycle. The image won't be as strong, but
at least the toasting will be even.

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 10:54 am
From: gpsman

On Aug 26, 2:20 pm, "larry moe 'n curly" <larrymoencu...@my-deja.com>
wrote:
> This toaster:
>
> http://www.kittyhell.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hello-kitty-toast...
>
> is supposed to burn a Hello Kitty face on one side of the bread, but
> it can't do that unless it's set so high that the other side (the non-
> Kitty side) of the bread burns. Is there any way to make it toast
> more evenly?

Does it have a "bagel" setting?
-----

- gpsman

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 11:40 am
From: Matt

On 08/26/2011 01:20 PM, larry moe 'n curly wrote:
> This toaster:
>
> http://www.kittyhell.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hello-kitty-toaster.jpg
>
> is supposed to burn a Hello Kitty face on one side of the bread, but
> it can't do that unless it's set so high that the other side (the non-
> Kitty side) of the bread burns. Is there any way to make it toast
> more evenly?
>
> All the heating coils are in series, so I can't cut the power to just
> some of the coils by adding a diode.
>
> The bread is held in baskets that clamp the bread on the sides when
> it's lowered, and I tried making one side of the basket hold the toast
> farther from the coils on the non-Kitty side, but it didn't help.
>
> I'm thinking of covering the non-Kitty side with a screen to block
> some of the heat, but I can't find a suitable non-metal material (to
> prevent shock hazard).

Use an atomizer to apply a fine mist of water to the plain side before
toasting?

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:23 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I'm thinking of covering the non-Kitty side with a screen to block
> some of the heat, but I can't find a suitable non-metal material
> (to prevent shock hazard).

An asbestos pad?

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:32 pm
From: amdx

On 8/26/2011 1:42 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
> On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 11:20:05 -0700 (PDT), "larry moe 'n curly"
> <larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote:
>
>> This toaster:
>>
>> http://www.kittyhell.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hello-kitty-toaster.jpg
>>
>> is supposed to burn a Hello Kitty face on one side of the bread, but
>> it can't do that unless it's set so high that the other side (the non-
>> Kitty side) of the bread burns. Is there any way to make it toast
>> more evenly?
>>
>> All the heating coils are in series, so I can't cut the power to just
>> some of the coils by adding a diode.
>>
>> The bread is held in baskets that clamp the bread on the sides when
>> it's lowered, and I tried making one side of the basket hold the toast
>> farther from the coils on the non-Kitty side, but it didn't help.
>>
>> I'm thinking of covering the non-Kitty side with a screen to block
>> some of the heat, but I can't find a suitable non-metal material (to
>> prevent shock hazard).
>>
>
> Sorry I can't help with electric stuff.
> But if nobody else can solve your problem you might try a cat stencil.
> Lay the stencil on the bread and brush some butter on before you put
> the bread in a toaster made for sane people.
> Not sure if the butter will catch on fire, but if it does move on to
> marmalade and other things until you get it right.

> Or see if somebody sells one-sided bread so there's no other side to
> burn.
> --Vic

We use the one sided bread in ours, works perfectly fine.
Mikek

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:33 pm
From: amdx

On 8/26/2011 3:08 PM, John S wrote:
> On 8/26/2011 1:20 PM, larry moe 'n curly wrote:
>> This toaster:
>>
>> http://www.kittyhell.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hello-kitty-toaster.jpg
>>
>>
>> is supposed to burn a Hello Kitty face on one side of the bread, but
>> it can't do that unless it's set so high that the other side (the non-
>> Kitty side) of the bread burns. Is there any way to make it toast
>> more evenly?
>>
>> All the heating coils are in series, so I can't cut the power to just
>> some of the coils by adding a diode.
>>
>> The bread is held in baskets that clamp the bread on the sides when
>> it's lowered, and I tried making one side of the basket hold the toast
>> farther from the coils on the non-Kitty side, but it didn't help.
>>
>> I'm thinking of covering the non-Kitty side with a screen to block
>> some of the heat, but I can't find a suitable non-metal material (to
>> prevent shock hazard).
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Asbestos.

Mica sheets.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:56 pm
From: Vic Smith

On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 14:33:45 -0500, amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:

>On 8/26/2011 3:08 PM, John S wrote:
>> On 8/26/2011 1:20 PM, larry moe 'n curly wrote:
>>> This toaster:
>>>
>>> http://www.kittyhell.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/hello-kitty-toaster.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>> is supposed to burn a Hello Kitty face on one side of the bread, but
>>> it can't do that unless it's set so high that the other side (the non-
>>> Kitty side) of the bread burns. Is there any way to make it toast
>>> more evenly?
>>>
>>> All the heating coils are in series, so I can't cut the power to just
>>> some of the coils by adding a diode.
>>>
>>> The bread is held in baskets that clamp the bread on the sides when
>>> it's lowered, and I tried making one side of the basket hold the toast
>>> farther from the coils on the non-Kitty side, but it didn't help.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking of covering the non-Kitty side with a screen to block
>>> some of the heat, but I can't find a suitable non-metal material (to
>>> prevent shock hazard).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Asbestos.
>
> Mica sheets.

Excellent.
I've looked through many boiler water level sight glasses which were
mica lined, but didn't think of it.
I see eBay has mica sheeting for sale, and elsewhere.

--Vic

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 1:21 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <a192b$4e59462b$18ec6dd7$19338@KNOLOGY.NET>,
amdx <amdx@knology.net> wrote:

>
> We use the one sided bread in ours, works perfectly fine.
> Mikek

Is that the Mobius brand?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How to resolder a cold solder connection?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/46868719284715b1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:12 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:hsu557hoo1k9d4nlg0tmk2ujh3dtvff5hs@4ax.com...
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayfix/index.html

> "Removal of old solder: As much of the old solder as possible was
> removed in preparation for re-soldering. It is possible to simply
> re-flow the old solder, but this method is better."

It's the way I've always done it.

Sometimes you can get away with adding a bit of fresh solder -- or better,
flux. But cleaning the joint is the preferred method.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 11:33 am
From: micky

On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 08:12:38 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>"micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
>news:hsu557hoo1k9d4nlg0tmk2ujh3dtvff5hs@4ax.com...
>> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayfix/index.html
>
>> "Removal of old solder: As much of the old solder as possible was
>> removed in preparation for re-soldering. It is possible to simply
>> re-flow the old solder, but this method is better."
>
>It's the way I've always done it.
>
>Sometimes you can get away with adding a bit of fresh solder -- or better,
>flux. But cleaning the joint is the preferred method.

Well, I learn something new ervery day.

I guess I've been doing this wrong for 50 years, but this time I'm
going to resolder a relay from my neighbor, and I don't want her
getting stuck, as she was last Monday, so my standards are higher than
they would be for myself. .

But I guess now that I know better, I'lll do it this way for myself
too.

Thanks, William, and everyone.

BTW, I could find liquid flux nearby, in time for the repair tomorrow,
so I got flux paste. I thought I'd put a little on with a toothpick
or matchstick?? If the hurrican means I don't work on the car
tomorrow, should I go 10 miles farther to buy liquid flux?

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:23 pm
From: Winston

micky wrote:
> On Sat, 27 Aug 2011 08:12:38 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"

(...)

>> Sometimes you can get away with adding a bit of fresh solder -- or better,
>> flux. But cleaning the joint is the preferred method.

Why limit yourself?
All four are the preferred method.
Remove old, Flux, Solder, Clean.

> Well, I learn something new ervery day.
>
> I guess I've been doing this wrong for 50 years, but this time I'm
> going to resolder a relay from my neighbor, and I don't want her
> getting stuck, as she was last Monday, so my standards are higher than
> they would be for myself. .
>
> But I guess now that I know better, I'lll do it this way for myself
> too.

Try it! You will be delighted.

(...)

> BTW, I could find liquid flux nearby, in time for the repair tomorrow,
> so I got flux paste. I thought I'd put a little on with a toothpick
> or matchstick?? If the hurrican means I don't work on the car
> tomorrow, should I go 10 miles farther to buy liquid flux?

Flux paste will work fine as long as:
1) It matches the flux in your properly selected
solder. (R, RMA or RA rosin in both cases).

2) You daub it on generously with an acid brush,
covering the joint in question.

3) You clean the resulting joint carefully.

The beauty of the liquid rosin flux is that it's
difficult to supply *too little* to the joint.

--Winston

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV aerial gizmo
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e9b357fd07e3eae3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:14 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

It's called "twinlead" or "coax".

Buy a splitter and some cable.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 12:12 pm
From: Winston

Dave U. Random wrote:
> Winston wrote in<news:j39ub201hf5@news1.newsguy.com>:
>
>> Anonymous wrote:

(...)

>>> Case in point, "My Mother The Car", starring Dick Van Dyke's brother,
>>> Jerry.
>>
>> Just watched several seconds of that on Youtube.
>>
>> My EYES! Argh!
>
> You can watch all the episodes on Hulu.com, if you're into pain.

I found a 2 x 4 with a nail in it.
Think I'll just bash myself with that for a while, instead.

--Winston

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What can I learn from, or make with, a Direct TV receiver?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e61cefa444df926?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:14 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Do you have the dish? If so... a wok.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is the difference between tuner cleaner and contact cleaner?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9039e4360531a2f4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:17 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Tuner cleaner might be designed to avoid damaging plastic parts in tuners,
whereas contact cleaner might be more "aggressive".

I would get some red Cramolin (that's not what it's called any more -- can't
think of the name) and thoroughly clean the plug. (You can also put a "wet"
plug in the jack. The cleaner will migrate and at least partially clean the
jack.) This removes the oxide, which might be what you need done.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Video - Racism On Wheel of Fortune?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4f9b0074a4669b70?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 27 2011 8:33 am
From: Evan Platt

On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 18:58:04 -0400, RoadRunner <asdf@aol.com> wrote:

>http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2011/08/racist-wheel-of-fortune-video/

Obviously a fake.
--
To reply via e-mail, remove The Obvious and .invalid from my e-mail address.

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