sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* FLAT, FLEXIBLE CABLE - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/54b7b87321dcf7af?hl=en
* Samsung SC4570 vacuum cleaner - access route? - 5 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9db025e7428a41a?hl=en
* Tips for saving ancient loudspeakers? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/47e1ea90a9d3138f?hl=en
* computer problems - 8 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5b26a3411c63324?hl=en
* vizio tv - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fe5b8f308bd7494e?hl=en
* Toshiba motor control IC - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7c9468d70d38e98e?hl=en
* Re-winding solenoids. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd7d7813745e3da8?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: FLAT, FLEXIBLE CABLE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/54b7b87321dcf7af?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 15 2011 8:25 pm
From: justme

Thanks, I will try there, too.

73

On 16 Oct 2011 03:18:53 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
<knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote:

>On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:24:15 -0500, justme wrote:
>>
>> I have several Icom 745 radios. I need flat, flexible cable to make
>> up for them. The maximum conductors are 11 but I can slit more to
>> make 11. The spacing is .060 x .060. I have worked with a lot of
>> cables as I am an nnnjineer but never this type of Mylar? cable other
>> than plugging it in or out.
>
> rec.radio.amateur.equipment
>
> ... others may have gone before you.
>
>73
>Jonesy

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung SC4570 vacuum cleaner - access route?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9db025e7428a41a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 2:57 am
From: "N_Cook"

Remove the dust hopper, then 4 screws but what holds the cover in place at
the other end, hidden screws/secret clips? How to remove the wheels ,
perhaps fixings in that area

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 4:26 am
From: "N_Cook"

I suspect the restraint is under the switch cap. But need to know what sort
of thin blade either side of the dash mark in the key cap to delatch it. You
can just make out something by shining a torch through the heavy smoked
plastic in that area. The wheels come off by delatching one of the 4 clips
and then turning the wheel while pulling axially outwards, no clips under
them.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 5:51 am
From: "N_Cook"

The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A plastic
disc of exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the front
and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards. But
now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap from
inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws undone
from inside the main blue cover.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 8:10 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Oct 16, 7:51 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
> switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A plastic
> disc of  exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
> and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
> switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the front
> and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards. But
> now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap from
> inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws undone
> from inside the main blue cover.

What are you trying to fix????

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 10:44 am
From: "N_Cook"

<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:6a2fde37-40eb-4838-93b0-5a44051af521@h14g2000yqi.googlegroups.com...
On Oct 16, 7:51 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> The way in was staring me in the face all the time. To the rear of the
> switch cap is what looks like a slightly recessed molding mark. A plastic
> disc of exactly the same size and shade of blue is gummy glued over this
> and hides a deeply recessed screw. Before finding that had removed the
> switch cap , requires 3 blades pushed down 20mm from the lip on the front
> and 2 sides and then a third lever to the rear to prize the cap upwards.
But
> now having got the main cover off it is much easier to remove the cap from
> inside delatching. The smoked cover does not come off until 2 screws
undone
> from inside the main blue cover.

What are you trying to fix????

++++

B.E.R but I gave it a chance.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tips for saving ancient loudspeakers?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/47e1ea90a9d3138f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 6:54 am
From: Ron

On 15/10/2011 18:39, gregz wrote:
> "N_Cook"<diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> Anyone aware of a site of such tips for renovation.
>> About 50 years old. Looks as though the card of the cone hase weakened with
>> age, probably like the paper of books goes brown and crumbly over time.
>> Looks as though the central cone area probably has failed to resist the
>> returning force of the periphery and the spider and has buckled torsionally
>> but not split in that inner zone ,one or so inches, from the voice coil join
>> and radially out.
>
> Does it play? I would have to see it.
>
> Greg

I missed the original post, but, if it's of any value take it to Paul
at Wembley Loudspeakers.

Ron(UK)

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 8:15 am
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Oct 15, 2:36 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Anyone aware of a site of such tips for renovation.
> About 50 years old. Looks as though the card of the cone hase weakened with
> age, probably like the paper of books goes brown and crumbly over time.
> Looks as though the central cone area probably has failed to resist the
> returning force of the periphery and the spider and has buckled torsionally
> but not split in that inner zone ,one or so inches, from the voice coil join
> and radially out.

If it actually works, and just the paper is going bad, try spraying
the cone with an aeresol(sp) spray varnish, a little at a time until
you get the stiffness that you think it should be. If the flexible
portion around the perimeter is going, a very thin layer of spray
adhesive may hold things together.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: computer problems
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d5b26a3411c63324?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 10:16 am
From: klem kedidelhopper

I really hope that someone can help me with this. I have a P233 with
American Megatrends AMI bios.This computer was working perfectly but
has been sitting without drives in it for a couple of months. I just
returned from a Ham Fest yesterday with a box of 35 hard drives which
I bought for 5.00 The drives range in size from 1 to 15 GBTS. My
intention was to try these drives in a known working computer without
a hard drive to see if any of them would come up. What I planned on
doing was to go into bios before post and try to auto detect the
drive.Then I was going to format that good drive and add it to another
working computer which I'm presently using. Then I planned to copy my
pertinent files from the existing C drive to the new D drive. I
reasoned that even if the unknown drive had a virus, it could only
affect the RAM in which case a power cycle on/off would clear that and
so installing it into a stripped down box could not harm the computer
in any way. I've tested drives like this before without any problem it
seems. Afterward formatting would take care of any virus.

Well apparently I was wrong. Things didn't work out the way I had
hoped. The first drive I selected came right up without my first going
into bios and auto detecting it. How it did that without my first auto
detecting it made no sense to me. I would have expected to se some
message along with some beeps telling me that the configuration was
wrong and directing me into bios to correct it. Initially during this
boot up the screen had some logo talking about a server of some kind
and then I saw something about Linux. Then there was miles it seemed
of code displayed on the screen one line after another. It looked like
a program was unpacking or something but I'm not sure. Finally the
computer just hung. I turned it off and then on again. I managed to
access the bios screen and auto detected the drive. I also changed the
date and updated the configuration to show just a master and one 3.5
floppy. Everything seemed as it should be. I then exited bios saving
the configuration however it never completed post. I then tried a
power cycle again and this time the bios screen came up with gibberish
super imposed on it. After this and repeated tries I was not able to
get into bios again. My son suggested a possible "bios virus". I had
no idea that such a thing was possible. Isn't bios ROM? That being the
case how can something "write" to it? I pulled the battery overnight
and this morning re installed it. Everything is pulled except the RAM
and the video board. I then tried it again. The first time it let me
into bios. I noted that the date as well as the configuration was
wrong so I assumed I dumped everything that was not burned into the
chip. I did the re configuration, saved and exited but now its not
letting me back into bios again. And it's not completing post either.
It's really frustrating and discouraging to realize that I have now
apparently damaged a previously good machine by performing a seemingly
innocent act. Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
appreciated. Lenny

== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 10:52 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Oct 16, 10:16 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I really hope that someone can help me with this. I have a P233 with
> American Megatrends  AMI bios.This computer was working perfectly but
> has been sitting without drives in it for a couple of months. I just
> returned from a Ham Fest yesterday with a box of 35 hard drives which
> I bought for 5.00 The drives range in size from 1 to 15 GBTS. My
> intention was to try these drives in a known working computer without
> a hard drive to see if any of them would come up. What I planned on
> doing was to go into bios before post and try to auto detect the
> drive.Then I was going to format that good drive and add it to another
> working computer which I'm presently using. Then I planned to copy my
> pertinent files from the existing C drive to the new D drive. I
> reasoned that even if the unknown drive had a virus, it could only
> affect the RAM in which case a power cycle on/off would clear that and
> so installing it into a stripped down box could not harm the computer
> in any way. I've tested drives like this before without any problem it
> seems. Afterward formatting would take care of any virus.
>
> Well apparently I was wrong. Things didn't work out the way I had
> hoped. The first drive I selected came right up without my first going
> into bios and auto detecting it. How it did that without my first auto
> detecting it made no sense to me. I would have expected to se some
> message along with some beeps telling me that the configuration was
> wrong and directing me into bios to correct it. Initially during this
> boot up the screen  had some logo talking about a server of some kind
> and then I saw something about Linux. Then there was miles it seemed
> of code displayed on the screen one line after another. It looked like
> a program was unpacking or something but I'm not sure. Finally the
> computer just hung. I turned it off and then on again. I managed to
> access the bios screen and auto detected the drive. I also changed the
> date and updated the configuration to show just a master and one 3.5
> floppy. Everything seemed as it should be. I then exited bios saving
> the configuration however it never completed post. I then tried a
> power cycle again and this time the bios screen came up with gibberish
> super imposed on it. After this and repeated tries I was not able to
> get into bios again. My son suggested a possible "bios virus". I had
> no idea that such a thing was possible. Isn't bios ROM? That being the
> case how can something "write" to it? I pulled the battery overnight
> and this morning re installed it. Everything is pulled except the RAM
> and the video board. I then tried it again. The first time it let me
> into bios. I noted that the date as well as the configuration was
> wrong so I assumed I dumped everything that was not burned into the
> chip. I did the re configuration, saved and exited but now its not
> letting me back into bios again. And it's not completing post either.
> It's really frustrating and discouraging to realize that I have now
> apparently damaged a previously good machine by performing a seemingly
> innocent act. Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
> might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
> appreciated. Lenny

== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 11:04 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
> I really hope that someone can help me with this. I have a P233 with
> American Megatrends AMI bios.This computer was working perfectly but
> has been sitting without drives in it for a couple of months.
.....

>Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
> might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
> appreciated. Lenny

First of all, if you are worried about viruses download the bootable antivirus
checker disks provided by several of the antivirus software companies. I
prefer AVG and it has found viruses that the others missed.

I fix about one computer a week these days by running the AVG standalone
antvirus. :-)

Second, download a recent copy of the UBUNTU Linux distribution. One of the
options is a standalone memory test. Only really bad memory fails the POST.
Bad memory can pass it and then mess things up.

Third, if you have a BIOS virus, you are effectively screwed. Most modern
computers have their BIOS in an EEPROM (electrally eraseable progamable
read only memory) chip. You can update the BIOS "on the fly".

For a computer of that age, there may have been a jumper on the motherboard
to allow or disallow it.

Most likely, you just messed things up.

To fix them, start by downloading the manual for your motherboard and the
last version of the BIOS if it is updateble.

Each of the following steps needs to be done with the computer and monitor
unplugged from the wall, plugged in to test them and then unplugged if you
need to go on. I epxect you understand this, but I mention it in case
someone else reading this later does not.

Then remove everything in the computer that is not permanent, all expansion
cards, drives, etc. It's ok to leave drives in brackets, just disconnect the
signal cables from the motherboard and remove the power plugs.

Remove everything that can be plugged into an expansion socket.
DO NOT remove connections to switches, speakers, etc.

Remove the battery. Check the voltage. If it is a lithium coin cell replace
it anyway. They often seem ok when they are not. Let it sit overnight before
replacing the battery. If it was less than 3.3 volts, it's a cause of some
of, if not all of your problems.

Remove all RAM.

Assuming you don't have a video card on the motherboard, turn it on. It should
go on and do nothing.

Some BIOSes have "no memory" beeps, most just do nothing.

Turn it off, unplug and put in ONE memory stick (two if the manual says you
need to and pay attention to where it says to put it (them)). You usually
can turn it off by holding in the power button for 8 seconds.

Plug in and turn on. It should now give you the "no video card" beeps
(probably 8).

Turn off, unplug and insert video card. Connect a monitor, plug in and turn on.

You should see the BIOS screen. You may see the video card BIOS message first.

If you get splotches on the screen, turn off unplug and try different video
cards or memory sticks. It's most likely one or the other.

You can also (unplugged) make sure any socketed chips are in their sockets
securely (slow even pressure, but not enough to break anything) and
use a clean (no lead on it) pencil eraser to clean off the the contacts
on the bottom of the cards and memory.

If it's clean, press the startup anyway option and it should attempt to boot.

If it's not clean, look in the manual for BIOS recovery options and follow
the instructions.

If you can run setup, go in and turn OFF "quick boot" or anything like it,
you want it to boot as slowly as possible (most POSTing and most messages).

If you get a clean POST, you can start replacing drives, memory, etc, one
at a time until something fails. If nothing fails, attach an optical drive
(CD/DVD) and boot from the Linux disk. Run a full memory test.

It's not perfect, it does not detect minor memory timing errors which will
cause the computer to crash, but it will find almost all of the ones the
POST missed.

Based on what you said, my GUESS from at least 6,000 miles away is bad
memory, which can be caused by dirty contacts, loose chips, or even
memory that is actually bad.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM
My high blood pressure medicine reduces my midichlorian count. :-(

== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 11:19 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

klem kedidelhopper wrote:
>
> I really hope that someone can help me with this. I have a P233 with
> American Megatrends AMI bios.This computer was working perfectly but
> has been sitting without drives in it for a couple of months. I just
> returned from a Ham Fest yesterday with a box of 35 hard drives which
> I bought for 5.00 The drives range in size from 1 to 15 GBTS. My
> intention was to try these drives in a known working computer without
> a hard drive to see if any of them would come up. What I planned on
> doing was to go into bios before post and try to auto detect the
> drive.Then I was going to format that good drive and add it to another
> working computer which I'm presently using. Then I planned to copy my
> pertinent files from the existing C drive to the new D drive. I
> reasoned that even if the unknown drive had a virus, it could only
> affect the RAM in which case a power cycle on/off would clear that and
> so installing it into a stripped down box could not harm the computer
> in any way. I've tested drives like this before without any problem it
> seems. Afterward formatting would take care of any virus.
>
> Well apparently I was wrong. Things didn't work out the way I had
> hoped. The first drive I selected came right up without my first going
> into bios and auto detecting it. How it did that without my first auto
> detecting it made no sense to me. I would have expected to se some
> message along with some beeps telling me that the configuration was
> wrong and directing me into bios to correct it. Initially during this
> boot up the screen had some logo talking about a server of some kind
> and then I saw something about Linux. Then there was miles it seemed
> of code displayed on the screen one line after another. It looked like
> a program was unpacking or something but I'm not sure. Finally the
> computer just hung. I turned it off and then on again. I managed to
> access the bios screen and auto detected the drive. I also changed the
> date and updated the configuration to show just a master and one 3.5
> floppy. Everything seemed as it should be. I then exited bios saving
> the configuration however it never completed post. I then tried a
> power cycle again and this time the bios screen came up with gibberish
> super imposed on it. After this and repeated tries I was not able to
> get into bios again. My son suggested a possible "bios virus". I had
> no idea that such a thing was possible. Isn't bios ROM? That being the
> case how can something "write" to it? I pulled the battery overnight
> and this morning re installed it. Everything is pulled except the RAM
> and the video board. I then tried it again. The first time it let me
> into bios. I noted that the date as well as the configuration was
> wrong so I assumed I dumped everything that was not burned into the
> chip. I did the re configuration, saved and exited but now its not
> letting me back into bios again. And it's not completing post either.
> It's really frustrating and discouraging to realize that I have now
> apparently damaged a previously good machine by performing a seemingly
> innocent act. Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
> might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
> appreciated. Lenny

BIOS is stored in an EEPROM, so it can be updated. That allows idiots
to write code that will damage the BIOS. Who made the motherboard, and
what is the model number? Someone might have a board with the right
BIOS chip on it. I may have a similar motherboard I can send you, as
well. A P233 is win 95/win 98 grade, and I don't repair those computers
any more. I get them donated for parts, and scrap them for hardware &
scrap metal. Some of the drives are big enough for older machine tools,
so I test & keep those and the CD-ROM drives.

A computer with a P233 should be new enough not to require the BIOS
to be set up for a hard drive. Do you have a working computer running
ME or newer? Buy one of the USB to IDE/SATA adapters to test them
outside the computer. You can get them with, or without a power
supply. That way you can scan the drives for any virii before putting
them into a computer. Server & Linux suggests that it was running
Apache, a free server platform and used for a web server.

<http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-SATA-IDE-Cable-ATA-Converter-Adapter-Hard-Drive-2-5-3-5-DVD-CDR-/400249044101?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item5d30b3bc85>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-2-0-SATA-IDE-Hard-Drive-Adapter-Converter-Cable-/150505362908?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230ad195dc>

There is a size limit for hard drives in the BIOS of older computers
that may

--
You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 11:28 am
From: root

klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote:

The first thing to do is get the machine to finish POST.
To do this I suggest you zero out cmos, disconnect all
drives, and try to get into setup again. To zero cmos
you have to find the 3-post jumper near the battery.
If you have the manual for the motherboard you can find
it. If no manual, then look for a 3-post jumper near the
battery. A jumper will be connected between two of the
posts, say the left and middle. With the power off,
connect the jumper between the middle and the right post.
Then re-connect the jumper to the original way.

After this, with all drives disconnected, try to start
the machine and go into setup. If you get into setup
then set the time-date and find the option to set all
settings to factory-default.

If you get this far you can try connecting your original
drive only and see if the system boots.

== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 10:56 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Oct 16, 10:16 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
> might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
> appreciated. Lenny

Your BIOS was set up to boot off the hard drive and it did. You should
have set it up to boot off a floppy, considering you have a floppy
drive. Next time, make a boot floppy.

For now, you're going to have to remove the BIOS chip from the board
and get it reflashed somewhere else.

== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 12:09 pm
From: klem kedidelhopper

On Oct 16, 1:56 pm, spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 16, 10:16 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >  Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
> > might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
> > appreciated. Lenny
>
> Your BIOS was set up to boot off the hard drive and it did. You should
> have set it up to boot off a floppy, considering you have a floppy
> drive. Next time, make a boot floppy.
>
> For now, you're going to have to remove the BIOS chip from the board
> and get it reflashed somewhere else.

Ive heard the term "reflashed" before. What is that? Lenny

== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 12:22 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Oct 16, 12:09 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Oct 16, 1:56 pm, spamtrap1888 <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > On Oct 16, 10:16 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > >  Does anyone have any ideas what happened and if there
> > > might be a way to correct it? Any help would be most sincerely
> > > appreciated. Lenny
>
> > Your BIOS was set up to boot off the hard drive and it did. You should
> > have set it up to boot off a floppy, considering you have a floppy
> > drive. Next time, make a boot floppy.
>
> > For now, you're going to have to remove the BIOS chip from the board
> > and get it reflashed somewhere else.
>
> Ive heard the term "reflashed" before. What is that? Lenny

Your BIOS chip is a flash memory device. The BIOS was flashed at the
factory (i.e. the proper ones and zeroes were set in it). I suspect
that those ones and zeroes are no longer proper, and the BIOS chip
needs to have the proper ones reset into it, i.e. reflashed.

I once bought a "refurbished" (i.e. returned) PC that wouldn't boot.
Although it apparently had the proper revision of the proper BIOS, I
reflashed the BIOS from a file I downloaded from the manufacturer, and
it booted properly.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: vizio tv
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fe5b8f308bd7494e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 10:43 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Oct 15, 3:52 pm, PlainB...@yawhoo.com wrote:
> On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 05:45:06 -0600, "Vince Schmitt"
>
> <vschmit...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >Hi
> >I have a Vizio TV MDL VW37L HDTV20A
> >    The pilot light is on  (orange)  push the power button and nothing
> >happens, the light stays orange, the set is dead, I  tried a new power
> >supply board and still the same thing.
> >     Thanks for any help I can get.
> >                                                       Vince
> >vschmit...@gmail.com
>
> Probably a problem with the main board.  Some models of Vizio are
> notorius for a failure of U33 (a AS1117 voltage regulator) on the main
> board.  
>
> More information is available atwww.badcaps.net/forum
>

Why do I have to join before I can look at the pictures?

Are they dirty?

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 12:33 pm
From: PlainBill@yawhoo.com

On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 10:43:36 -0700 (PDT), spamtrap1888
<spamtrap1888@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Oct 15, 3:52�pm, PlainB...@yawhoo.com wrote:
>> On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 05:45:06 -0600, "Vince Schmitt"
>>
>> <vschmit...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >Hi
>> >I have a Vizio TV MDL VW37L HDTV20A
>> > � �The pilot light is on �(orange) �push the power button and nothing
>> >happens, the light stays orange, the set is dead, I �tried a new power
>> >supply board and still the same thing.
>> > � � Thanks for any help I can get.
>> > � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � Vince
>> >vschmit...@gmail.com
>>
>> Probably a problem with the main board. �Some models of Vizio are
>> notorius for a failure of U33 (a AS1117 voltage regulator) on the main
>> board. �
>>
>> More information is available atwww.badcaps.net/forum
>>
>
>Why do I have to join before I can look at the pictures?
>
>Are they dirty?
Why are you afraid to join?

PlainBill

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 1:20 pm
From: spamtrap1888

On Oct 16, 12:33 pm, PlainB...@yawhoo.com wrote:
> On Sun, 16 Oct 2011 10:43:36 -0700 (PDT), spamtrap1888
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <spamtrap1...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >On Oct 15, 3:52 pm, PlainB...@yawhoo.com wrote:
> >> On Sat, 15 Oct 2011 05:45:06 -0600, "Vince Schmitt"
>
> >> <vschmit...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >Hi
> >> >I have a Vizio TV MDL VW37L HDTV20A
> >> > The pilot light is on (orange) push the power button and nothing
> >> >happens, the light stays orange, the set is dead, I tried a new power
> >> >supply board and still the same thing.
> >> > Thanks for any help I can get.
> >> > Vince
> >> >vschmit...@gmail.com
>
> >> Probably a problem with the main board. Some models of Vizio are
> >> notorius for a failure of U33 (a AS1117 voltage regulator) on the main
> >> board.
>
> >> More information is available atwww.badcaps.net/forum
>
> >Why do I have to join before I can look at the pictures?
>
> >Are they dirty?
>
> Why are you afraid to join?
>

I don't expect to be able to contribute to the forum, so it would not
benefit from my joining.
For security I would have to create a unique user name and password.
Managing a plethora of account names and passwords is onerous.

I prefer the usenet model with open access.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 1:24 pm
From: "Charles"

Why are you afraid to join?

PlainBill

I no longer join unless I am desperate for information. Joining often means
that your contact information is sold or shared.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toshiba motor control IC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7c9468d70d38e98e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 12:13 pm
From: "news@rblack01.plus.com"

Hi,

Can anyone help identify a Toshiba IC used for bidirectional control
of a brushed motor? The original part number is partially missing as
the chip has a crater blown in the package when the mechanism
seized...

12-pin staggered SIL package, with metal heatsink tab
Legend says TOSHIBA, part number begins TA80

The IC is part of the controller for the power antenna in a 1998 Mazda
323F (known as a Miata in North America I believe). Toshiba don't
list anything similar in their current line-up, so I'm assuming the IC
is EOL and I'm looking at obsolete parts suppliers.

If anyone can identify this chip and, better still, point me to a
datasheet, I might be able to find a similar part or lash something up
using discretes if I can't locate a replacement.

TIA

R.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 12:53 pm
From: "N_Cook"

<news@rblack01.plus.com> wrote in message
news:ee3da138-b158-4f04-bc71-f854dc2690c4@z26g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
> Hi,
>
> Can anyone help identify a Toshiba IC used for bidirectional control
> of a brushed motor? The original part number is partially missing as
> the chip has a crater blown in the package when the mechanism
> seized...
>
> 12-pin staggered SIL package, with metal heatsink tab
> Legend says TOSHIBA, part number begins TA80
>
> The IC is part of the controller for the power antenna in a 1998 Mazda
> 323F (known as a Miata in North America I believe). Toshiba don't
> list anything similar in their current line-up, so I'm assuming the IC
> is EOL and I'm looking at obsolete parts suppliers.
>
> If anyone can identify this chip and, better still, point me to a
> datasheet, I might be able to find a similar part or lash something up
> using discretes if I can't locate a replacement.
>
> TIA
>
> R.

http://www.datasheets.org.uk/
for ta80* driver

ID 1 First line: motor mind c TA8082H TA8082H DUAL MOTOR DRIVER Abstract:
.. DUAL DC MOTOR DRIVER. The TA8082H contains two motor driver circuits with
a current capacity of 1.5A for directly driving bidirectional DC motors.
Inputs DI1A / B and DI2A / B are combined to select .. Tags: motor mind c
Z/1.5A* TA8082H 213.24 Kb 7 Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame
ID 2 First line: TA8052S TA8052S 0.3A MOTOR DRIVER WITH BRAKE FUNCTION
Abstract: .. 0.3A MOTOR DRIVER WITH BRAKE FUNCTION. The TA8052S is a
full-bridge driver which directly drives a bidirectional DC motor. Inputs
DI1 and DI2 are combined to select one of forward, reverse, stop .. Tags:
TA8052S TA8052S 205.57 Kb 7 Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame
ID 3 First line: TA8062S TA8062S DUAL HIGHSIDE DRIVER Abstract: .. DUAL
HIGHSIDE DRIVER. The TA8062S is a 0.3A highside driver containing two
circuits in one package. The input level is TTL compatible so that the
output can be controlled directly from CPU system .. Tags: TA8062S 163.9
Kb 7 Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame
ID 4 First line: TA8050F TA8050F Motor Driver with Brake Function Abstract:
.. 1.5 A DC Motor Driver with Brake Function. The TA8050F is a 1.5 A motor
driver which directly drives a bidirectional DC motor. Inputs DI1 and DI2
are combined to select one of forward, reverse, stop .. Tags: TA8050F
174.02 Kb 9 Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame
ID 5 First line: TA8069F TA8069F SIDE DRIVER Abstract: .. 4CH LOW SIDE
DRIVER. TA8069F is built into four 0.5A low-side driver ICs which drive
lamp, relay, and solenoid actuators. Inputs from DI1, DI2, DI3, and DI4
switch ON and OFF modes. Inputs are TTL .. Tags: TA8069F 305.92 Kb 10
Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame
ID 6 First line: TA8081P TA8081P 0.7A MOTOR DRIVER WITH DIAGNOSIS Abstract:
.. 0.7A MOTOR DRIVER WITH DIAGNOSIS. The TA8081P is a 0.7A motor driver
which directly drivers a bidirectional DC motor. Inputs DI1 and DI2 are
combined to select one of forward, reverse, stop, and .. Tags: TA8081P
205.01 Kb 7 Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame
ID 7 First line: TA8083AF TA8083AF Dual Motor Driver Abstract: .. Dual DC
Motor Driver. The TA8083AF contains two motor driver circuits with a current
capacity of 0.5A for directly driving bidirectional DC motors. Inputs DI1
A/B and DI2 A/B are combined to select .. Tags: TA8083AF TA8083AF 315.39
Kb 11 Pages Original PDF Download
datasheet frame

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 1:33 pm
From: Jamie

news@rblack01.plus.com wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Can anyone help identify a Toshiba IC used for bidirectional control
> of a brushed motor? The original part number is partially missing as
> the chip has a crater blown in the package when the mechanism
> seized...
>
> 12-pin staggered SIL package, with metal heatsink tab
> Legend says TOSHIBA, part number begins TA80
>
> The IC is part of the controller for the power antenna in a 1998 Mazda
> 323F (known as a Miata in North America I believe). Toshiba don't
> list anything similar in their current line-up, so I'm assuming the IC
> is EOL and I'm looking at obsolete parts suppliers.
>
> If anyone can identify this chip and, better still, point me to a
> datasheet, I might be able to find a similar part or lash something up
> using discretes if I can't locate a replacement.
>
> TIA
>
> R.
Does this help?

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/31395/TOSHIBA/TA8051P.html

YOu can use a dual channel power amp IC, found in basic medium power
stereos for this. Or just fab a bridge from some power fets.

Jamie

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 2:05 pm
From: "news@rblack01.plus.com"

On Oct 16, 8:53 pm, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> <n...@rblack01.plus.com> wrote in message
>
> news:ee3da138-b158-4f04-bc71-f854dc2690c4@z26g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi,
>
> > Can anyone help identify a Toshiba IC used for bidirectional control
> > of a brushed motor?  The original part number is partially missing as
> > the chip has a crater blown in the package when the mechanism
> > seized...
>
> > 12-pin staggered SIL package, with metal heatsink tab
> > Legend says TOSHIBA, part number begins TA80
>
> > The IC is part of the controller for the power antenna in a 1998 Mazda
> > 323F (known as a Miata in North America I believe).  Toshiba don't
> > list anything similar in their current line-up, so I'm assuming the IC
> > is EOL and I'm looking at obsolete parts suppliers.
>
> > If anyone can identify this chip and, better still, point me to a
> > datasheet, I might be able to find a similar part or lash something up
> > using discretes if I can't locate a replacement.
>
> > TIA
>
> > R.
>
> http://www.datasheets.org.uk/
> for ta80* driver
>
> ID 1    First line: motor mind c TA8082H TA8082H DUAL MOTOR DRIVER Abstract:
> .. DUAL DC MOTOR DRIVER. The TA8082H contains two motor driver circuits with
> a current capacity of 1.5A for directly driving bidirectional DC motors.
> Inputs DI1A / B and DI2A / B are combined to select ..  Tags: motor mind c
> Z/1.5A*   TA8082H   213.24 Kb   7 Pages   Original   PDF Download
> datasheet frame
> ID 2  First line: TA8052S TA8052S 0.3A MOTOR DRIVER WITH BRAKE FUNCTION
> Abstract: .. 0.3A MOTOR DRIVER WITH BRAKE FUNCTION. The TA8052S is a
> full-bridge driver which directly drives a bidirectional DC motor. Inputs
> DI1 and DI2 are combined to select one of forward, reverse, stop ..  Tags:
> TA8052S   TA8052S  205.57 Kb  7 Pages  Original  PDF Download
> datasheet frame
> ID 3  First line: TA8062S TA8062S DUAL HIGHSIDE DRIVER Abstract: .. DUAL
> HIGHSIDE DRIVER. The TA8062S is a 0.3A highside driver containing two
> circuits in one package. The input level is TTL compatible so that the
> output can be controlled directly from CPU system ..  Tags:   TA8062S  163.9
> Kb  7 Pages  Original  PDF Download
> datasheet frame
> ID 4  First line: TA8050F TA8050F Motor Driver with Brake Function Abstract:
> .. 1.5 A DC Motor Driver with Brake Function. The TA8050F is a 1.5 A motor
> driver which directly drives a bidirectional DC motor. Inputs DI1 and DI2
> are combined to select one of forward, reverse, stop ..  Tags:   TA8050F
> 174.02 Kb  9 Pages  Original  PDF Download
> datasheet frame
> ID 5  First line: TA8069F TA8069F SIDE DRIVER Abstract: .. 4CH LOW SIDE
> DRIVER. TA8069F is built into four 0.5A low-side driver ICs which drive
> lamp, relay, and solenoid actuators. Inputs from DI1, DI2, DI3, and DI4
> switch ON and OFF modes. Inputs are TTL ..  Tags:   TA8069F  305.92 Kb  10
> Pages  Original  PDF Download
> datasheet frame
> ID 6  First line: TA8081P TA8081P 0.7A MOTOR DRIVER WITH DIAGNOSIS Abstract:
> .. 0.7A MOTOR DRIVER WITH DIAGNOSIS. The TA8081P is a 0.7A motor driver
> which directly drivers a bidirectional DC motor. Inputs DI1 and DI2 are
> combined to select one of forward, reverse, stop, and ..  Tags:   TA8081P
> 205.01 Kb  7 Pages  Original  PDF Download
> datasheet frame
> ID 7  First line: TA8083AF TA8083AF Dual Motor Driver Abstract: .. Dual DC
> Motor Driver. The TA8083AF contains two motor driver circuits with a current
> capacity of 0.5A for directly driving bidirectional DC motors. Inputs DI1
> A/B and DI2 A/B are combined to select ..  Tags: TA8083AF   TA8083AF  315.39
> Kb  11 Pages  Original  PDF Download
> datasheet frame

Thanks for that, I'll trace the circuit tomorrow, measure the motor
curent under load and find the most likely match. I don't think the
brake function is being used, there's a current-sense circuit,
comparator and SR flip-flop to detect when the motor stalls at the end
of travel and cut the power. I'm not sure why it blew up, a
completely seized mech should shut down immediately. Maybe add a
heatsink, there's none at all at the moment?

Cheers

R.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 2:00 pm
From: "news@rblack01.plus.com"

On Oct 16, 9:33 pm, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
> n...@rblack01.plus.com wrote:
> > Hi,
>
> > Can anyone help identify a Toshiba IC used for bidirectional control
> > of a brushed motor?  The original part number is partially missing as
> > the chip has a crater blown in the package when the mechanism
> > seized...
>
> > 12-pin staggered SIL package, with metal heatsink tab
> > Legend says TOSHIBA, part number begins TA80
>
> > The IC is part of the controller for the power antenna in a 1998 Mazda
> > 323F (known as a Miata in North America I believe).  Toshiba don't
> > list anything similar in their current line-up, so I'm assuming the IC
> > is EOL and I'm looking at obsolete parts suppliers.
>
> > If anyone can identify this chip and, better still, point me to a
> > datasheet, I might be able to find a similar part or lash something up
> > using discretes if I can't locate a replacement.
>
> > TIA
>
> > R.
>
> Does this help?
>
> http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/31395/TOSHIBA/TA8051P...
>
> YOu can use a dual channel power amp IC, found in basic medium power
> stereos for this. Or just fab a bridge from some power fets.
>
> Jamie

Excellent, thanks very much for that. I'll trace the circuit tomorrow
and check the pin functions match. Agreed, lots of other bridge chips
will do as a substitute but I'll try a few of the local obsolete
component specialists first.

Cheers

R.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Re-winding solenoids.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fd7d7813745e3da8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 16 2011 1:48 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

Just a few abstract thoughts here. It makes sense to me,
but then I've been known to over look the obvious on
occasion. ;-)

I have a solenoid coil that actuates a large 3-pole
contactor. A short pulse to pull up on a lever that
will toggle it from on position to another, and back.

Making measurements of the solenoid coil, although
potted in epoxy, yields a few measurements and a
couple of guesses.

<http://www.pronine.ca/multind.htm>

Coil form 1" diameter, 1-3/8" width and 1.5" depth.
Going backwards on a solenoid coil java script, yields
a matching 125 mH inductance (as measured) and 95 ohm
DCR (as measured) for 2500 turns of #30 AWG which will
fill the bobbin.

This a 480 VAC actuator.

Am I headed in the right direction if I assume the key
factor here is ampere turns?

Not allowing for the added inductance by a movable core,
this has an impedance of roughly 100 ohms. So that works
out to 4.8 amps or 12,000 ampere turns.

Substituting 2000 turns of #28 AWG yields 80 mH, and 42
Ohms. And subsequently roughly 12,000 ampere turns at
240 VAC.

Putting 240 VAC across the 480 VAC coil yields only 6,000
ampere turns and obviously is NOT enough to actuate the
contactor transfer mechanism.

The reason I'm curious is that ASCO seems to think that
the replacement coil for this is worth $585, although
they will sell it as the "sale price" of only $421.80.

Jeff-1.0
The other other one

--
"Everything from Crackers to Coffins"

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