sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 6 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

* Good sound; intermittent picture. - 7 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45ba5bddf76a0064?hl=en
* Any TV experts here? Maybe an aerial specialist too. - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ad793e4d0dda11c6?hl=en
* Hacking APC UPS's "Master/Controlled" Feature? - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/97c4786ede874ee6?hl=en
* Fuse size in IBM ThinkPad T22 wallwart power supply - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/604b8d65c02e3a74?hl=en
* Kaypro-II : display video to repair - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9041846df71ea782?hl=en
* 'puter MB's requiring ddr2 memory - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/56807fd5277a8660?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Good sound; intermittent picture.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45ba5bddf76a0064?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 12:24 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

micky wrote:

> The picture can be restored by bending the co-ax TV input cable one
> way or the other. Sometimes this lasts for days at a couple hours
> each day. Other times it lasts for 10 seconds.

Have you tried replacing the coax? It seems to me for a couple of bucks,
you can avoid a lot of effort if it works.

The antenna connector could be loose, or corroded. If you have any DeOxit,
put a drop on the end of a toothpick and clean the center contact of
the antenna socket. If it's an F connector, which is designed for bare
wire as the center contact use something thinner, like a bent paperclip.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM
My high blood pressure medicine reduces my midichlorian count. :-(

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 12:59 am
From: Sylvia Else

On 1/11/2011 5:54 PM, micky wrote:
> Can a tv input signal connection at the input coax connector affect
> only the picture and not the sound??
>
>
> I have a 25" Sharp TV, CRT, that often loses its picture, but never
> the sound. (Other than that, the picture and sound are very good.
> It's analog and I only use channel 3 and a separate tuner.)

If by "loses its picture" you mean that the picture abruptly and
completely dissappears, with no effect at all on the sound, I'd say "no".

If that's the effect you're seeing, then I'd suspect an intermittent
fault in the set, either a defective connector, or a dry joint, which
gets nudged so as to form a connection for a while when you tug at the
cable.

Sylvia.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:06 am
From: micky

On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:24:03 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
<gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

>micky wrote:
>
>> The picture can be restored by bending the co-ax TV input cable one
>> way or the other. Sometimes this lasts for days at a couple hours
>> each day. Other times it lasts for 10 seconds.
>
>Have you tried replacing the coax? It seems to me for a couple of bucks,
>you can avoid a lot of effort if it works.

I've replaced it in that the guy who gave me the tv had the very same
problem with his coax and his location.
>
>The antenna connector could be loose, or corroded. If you have any DeOxit,

I can get it or something like it.

>put a drop on the end of a toothpick and clean the center contact of
>the antenna socket. If it's an F connector, which is designed for bare
>wire as the center contact use something thinner, like a bent paperclip.

Yes, an F-connector. Okay, I'll do that, but is it really conceivalbe
that a bad connection there will affect the blank out the picture but
leave the sound undamaged? I hope so.

>Geoff.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:09 am
From: micky

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 18:59:27 +1100, Sylvia Else
<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

>On 1/11/2011 5:54 PM, micky wrote:
>> Can a tv input signal connection at the input coax connector affect
>> only the picture and not the sound??
>>
>>
>> I have a 25" Sharp TV, CRT, that often loses its picture, but never
>> the sound. (Other than that, the picture and sound are very good.
>> It's analog and I only use channel 3 and a separate tuner.)
>
>If by "loses its picture" you mean that the picture abruptly and
>completely dissappears, with no effect at all on the sound,

Yes, exactly.

> I'd say "no".
>
>If that's the effect you're seeing, then I'd suspect an intermittent
>fault in the set, either a defective connector, or a dry joint, which
>gets nudged so as to form a connection for a while when you tug at the
>cable.

I'll look for that. The TV is so big (25") I need to make a lot of
room on the work bench, and before I do t hat it will work fine for 2
days.

But the clues fropm the two of you should speed things up when I do
try to fix it. Being a basement cowboy is not so great after all.

Thanks, and iI think I forgot to thank Geoffrey. Thanks, G.

>
>Sylvia.

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:11 am
From: micky

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 04:06:01 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

>On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:24:03 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
><gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:
>
>>micky wrote:
>>
>>> The picture can be restored by bending the co-ax TV input cable one
>>> way or the other. Sometimes this lasts for days at a couple hours
>>> each day. Other times it lasts for 10 seconds.
>>
>>Have you tried replacing the coax? It seems to me for a couple of bucks,
>>you can avoid a lot of effort if it works.
>
>I've replaced it in that the guy who gave me the tv had the very same
>problem with his coax and his location.

The very same problem and the very same remedy. He got the picture
back by jiggling or moving the coax.
>>
>>The antenna connector could be loose, or corroded. If you have any DeOxit,
>
>I can get it or something like it.
>
>>put a drop on the end of a toothpick and clean the center contact of
>>the antenna socket. If it's an F connector, which is designed for bare
>>wire as the center contact use something thinner, like a bent paperclip.
>
>Yes, an F-connector. Okay, I'll do that, but is it really conceivalbe
>that a bad connection there will affect the blank out the picture but
>leave the sound undamaged? I hope so.
>
>>Geoff.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:19 am
From: Sylvia Else

On 1/11/2011 7:06 PM, micky wrote:
> On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:24:03 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
> <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:
>
>> micky wrote:
>>
>>> The picture can be restored by bending the co-ax TV input cable one
>>> way or the other. Sometimes this lasts for days at a couple hours
>>> each day. Other times it lasts for 10 seconds.
>>
>> Have you tried replacing the coax? It seems to me for a couple of bucks,
>> you can avoid a lot of effort if it works.
>
> I've replaced it in that the guy who gave me the tv had the very same
> problem with his coax and his location.
>>
>> The antenna connector could be loose, or corroded. If you have any DeOxit,
>
> I can get it or something like it.
>
>> put a drop on the end of a toothpick and clean the center contact of
>> the antenna socket. If it's an F connector, which is designed for bare
>> wire as the center contact use something thinner, like a bent paperclip.
>
> Yes, an F-connector. Okay, I'll do that, but is it really conceivalbe
> that a bad connection there will affect the blank out the picture but
> leave the sound undamaged? I hope so.

In my experience, as the signal level is reduced on an analogue CRT
television, first the picture becomes grainy, and then, as the signal
gets worse, the picture becomes unstable as well. There is no particular
level at which the picture is gone, it just merges gradually with the noise.

Sylvia.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 3:12 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Nov 1, 1:54 am, micky <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Can a tv input signal connection at the input coax connector affect
> only the picture and not the sound??
>
> I have a 25" Sharp TV, CRT, that often loses its picture, but never
> the sound. (Other than that, the picture and sound are very good.
> It's analog and I only use channel 3 and a separate tuner.)
>
> The picture can be restored by bending the co-ax TV input cable one
> way or the other. Sometimes this lasts for days at a couple hours
> each day. Other times it lasts for 10 seconds. I have a string
> attached to the cable. Usually pulling the string, pulling it
> tighter, or letting the string go makes the picture come back. I wrap
> the string around a drawer knob on my workbench (beyond which is the
> tv)., sort of like roping a calf and tying the lasso to the saddle
> pommel. This is the closest I've gotten to being a cowboy.
>
> Is it possible that the problem is the co-ax input cable connector or
> some part or connection near to that???? I don't see how a bad
> connection that early on can interrupt the picture and have no effect
> on the sound.
>
> Or is it just a locational coincidence, and the problem has to be
> somewhere in the main circuity, after the sound and picture are
> separate????
>
> Or in the high voltage? although I would think if it were the high
> voltage, I would see the picture start out small, maybe as a pinpoint,
> and enlarge when I pulled on the string and restored the picture.
> Instead it just appears on the entire screen at once.
>
> Thanks for any help you can give.

when you wiggle the coax, are you putting any!!!!! strain on the
printed circuit board inside????

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Any TV experts here? Maybe an aerial specialist too.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ad793e4d0dda11c6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:03 am
From: ~BD~ <~BD~@nomail.afraid.org>

Phil Allison wrote:
> "~BD~"
>> ~BD~ wrote:
>>
>>> This TV: Sony Bravia KDL 32EX503U
>>
>> My thanks to 'Arfa Daily' and 'bill' for comments.
>>
>> Location: East Devon, England
>>
>> The TV in question is only 10 months old and apart from the odd occurrence
>> of digital picture break-up, has worked perfectly until last Saturday
>> evening when the digital picture broke up into many pieces on the ITV
>> channels yet remained satisfactory on those from the BBC. My wife retuned
>> in accordance with the instruction, both auto and manually but the fault
>> remained.
>>
>> Yesterday, I reset the TV to factory conditions. I unplugged it from mains
>> power. I retuned without an aerial input (to clear channel settings, I'd
>> read on-line) then retuned again.
>>
>> I now get a perfect picture on all BBC 'normal' channels. I get a
>> first-class High Definition (HD) picture on relevant channels for both BBC
>> *and* the commercial TV channels (ITV).
>>
>> However, I'm still not receiving ITV 'normal' channels at all.
>>
>> (Another TV we have upstairs *does* work on normal ITV channels!)
>>
>> There's always a reason for everything. Any idea what might be the cause?
>
>
>
> ** Hardly possible for it to be a fault with the set at all.
>
> Signal strength at the set is low on the ITV channels - hence the breaking
> up etc.
>
> Suspect an antenna or cabling problem or possibly one at the transmitter.
>
> That another set in the house works OK is not relevant until you swap the
> locations of the sets.
>
> Please describe you antenna and cabling set up - is there a
> splitter/booster anywhere ?

Hi Phil

Thanks for your response.

The antenna is probably 3ft long - a square section, with 8 X's at equal
intervals. At the back end there is a < shape with 3 horizontal bars on
each arm. (I got my camera to take a picture and found it's battery flat
- now on charge!). I know it's more than 8 years old cause it was up
there on the chimney stack when I bought my house!

The cable from the aerial goes into the loft where it plugs into a
booster/splitter with four output cables. I did switch a couple around
last evening to no effect. Maybe I'll have another try later today.

I fear I may have to get in a professional if there is no possibility
that it's the TV itself. What I don't understand is why we should be
getting a perfect HD picture but no 'normal' ITV channels.

Dave

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:35 am
From: Geo

On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 06:32:41 +0000, ~BD~ <~BD~@nomail.afraid.org>
wrote:

>
>I now get a perfect picture on all BBC 'normal' channels. I get a
>first-class High Definition (HD) picture on relevant channels for both
>BBC *and* the commercial TV channels (ITV).
>
>However, I'm still not receiving ITV 'normal' channels at all.
>
>(Another TV we have upstairs *does* work on normal ITV channels!)
>

They have probably been upping the TX power levels after DSO and your
Sony has picked up some channels from the wrong transmitter - you
might find the correct channels stored elsewhere (800+?).
Suggest you ask in uk.tech.digital-tv giving town or approx postcode
and which transmitter your aerial is pointed at.
One way of getting round this is to do a manual scan on the correct
frequencies only - or watch the auto-scan and plug/unplug the aerial
at the right point.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 2:43 am
From: ~BD~ <~BD~@nomail.afraid.org>

Geo wrote:
> On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 06:32:41 +0000, ~BD~<~BD~@nomail.afraid.org>
> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> I now get a perfect picture on all BBC 'normal' channels. I get a
>> first-class High Definition (HD) picture on relevant channels for both
>> BBC *and* the commercial TV channels (ITV).
>>
>> However, I'm still not receiving ITV 'normal' channels at all.
>>
>> (Another TV we have upstairs *does* work on normal ITV channels!)
>>
>
> They have probably been upping the TX power levels after DSO and your
> Sony has picked up some channels from the wrong transmitter - you
> might find the correct channels stored elsewhere (800+?).
> Suggest you ask in uk.tech.digital-tv giving town or approx postcode
> and which transmitter your aerial is pointed at.
> One way of getting round this is to do a manual scan on the correct
> frequencies only - or watch the auto-scan and plug/unplug the aerial
> at the right point.

Hello Geo

FYI http://www.ukfree.tv/txdetail.php?a=ST222014

Details of Stockland Hill Tx ^^^^^ but it's mostly gobbledegook to me!

Today it's dry with blue sky and sunshine - and the ITV channels are
working again now!!! <rolls eyes>

Thanks for mentioning uk.tech.digital-tv - I'll go and visit! :-)

Dave

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 11:28 am
From: spamtrap1888

On Nov 1, 2:43 am, ~BD~ <~...@nomail.afraid.org> wrote:
> Geo wrote:
> > On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 06:32:41 +0000, ~BD~<~...@nomail.afraid.org>
> > wrote:
>
> >> I now get a perfect picture on all BBC 'normal' channels. I get a
> >> first-class High Definition (HD) picture on relevant channels for both
> >> BBC *and* the commercial TV channels (ITV).
>
> >> However, I'm still not receiving ITV 'normal' channels at all.
>
> >> (Another TV we have upstairs *does* work on normal ITV channels!)
>
> > They have probably been upping the TX power levels after DSO and your
> > Sony has picked up some channels from the wrong transmitter - you
> > might find the correct channels stored elsewhere (800+?).
> > Suggest you ask in uk.tech.digital-tv giving town or approx postcode
> > and which transmitter your aerial is pointed at.
> > One way of getting round this is to do a manual scan on the correct
> > frequencies only - or watch the auto-scan and plug/unplug the aerial
> > at the right point.
>
> Hello Geo
>
> FYIhttp://www.ukfree.tv/txdetail.php?a=ST222014
>
> Details of Stockland Hill Tx ^^^^^ but it's mostly gobbledegook to me!

BBC and ITV HD are transmitted at high power, the other ITVs are
transmitted at low power. Thus an aerial-cable setup that is
inadequate for the other ITVs could perform acceptably for BBC and ITV
HD.

>
> Today it's dry with blue sky and sunshine - and the ITV channels are
> working again now!!! <rolls eyes>

Was it storming when ITV was pixelated? Look to see if there are any
tree branches in line with the aerial and Stockland Hill. You could
try reaiming your aerial, or moving it to a different spot on your
roof. As old as it sounds, replacement might be a better solution.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 12:43 pm
From: Baron

Geo Inscribed thus:

> On Tue, 01 Nov 2011 06:32:41 +0000, ~BD~ <~BD~@nomail.afraid.org>
> wrote:
>
>
>>
>>I now get a perfect picture on all BBC 'normal' channels. I get a
>>first-class High Definition (HD) picture on relevant channels for both
>>BBC *and* the commercial TV channels (ITV).
>>
>>However, I'm still not receiving ITV 'normal' channels at all.
>>
>>(Another TV we have upstairs *does* work on normal ITV channels!)
>>
>
> They have probably been upping the TX power levels after DSO and your
> Sony has picked up some channels from the wrong transmitter - you
> might find the correct channels stored elsewhere (800+?).
> Suggest you ask in uk.tech.digital-tv giving town or approx postcode
> and which transmitter your aerial is pointed at.
> One way of getting round this is to do a manual scan on the correct
> frequencies only - or watch the auto-scan and plug/unplug the aerial
> at the right point.

Yes, that happened to me ! Where I am there are three transmitters and
it was the unwanted ones that were stronger for a short time. 48 hours
later and another re-tune, all was well.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hacking APC UPS's "Master/Controlled" Feature?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/97c4786ede874ee6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:42 am
From: Nelson

On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 19:56:46 -0400, PeteCresswell) wrote
(in article <4bdua75bjeirnl44e4q3g5vqh3poi7a898@4ax.com>):

> Per (PeteCresswell):
>> The lawyers or some other clever souls added weasel words in the
>> User's Guide | 2 Connect Equipment | Master/Controlled Outlets |
>> "Note: Do not connect peripherals to the Controlled Outlets if
>> you want them to continue to run when your computer is turned
>> off."
>>
>> For the life of my I can't imagine why they would inflict such a
>> flawed implementation on their customers. I mean... this is an
>> Uninterruptible Power Supply, not a friggin power strip... it's
>> all *about* function when the power fails.
>
> Sorry.... that was a non-sequitur..... I'm so pissed off over
> this that I'm not even thinking clearly any more.
>
> But, to answer your question, yes - I have the feature enabled.
>
> It's just that it does not work when the user needs it the most:
> when the power fails.
>

I don't understand what you want. Do you want the "controlled" outlets
to continue to have power after the computer shuts down? There are
other outlets that operate independent of the "master" which do that.
As I understand it the idea behind the "controlled" outlets is that a
peripheral which is only used by the computer, eg a printer, doesn't
need power if the computer is down, so to conserve the remaining
battery power for the useful items, these are shut down in synchrony
with the computer.

I have one of these and it works just fine. There are "uncontrolled"
outlets which are supplied with power whether the computer is up or
down, "controlled" outlets which are only supplied with power when the
computer is up, and surge protected only outlets which are not supplied
with backup power. I would have chosen the mix between these
differently, but that is easy enough to get around by plugging power
strips into one or the other types of outlets.

In my set up, I have the external hard drives and printer connected to
the "slave" outlets and the cable modem and VOIP modem connected to the
"always up" outlets. When the battery is down to 25%, the computer
shuts itself down along with the peripherals and the modem and router
continue to provide telephone service. Isn't that the same thing you
want?

--
Nelson

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 7:22 am
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Per Nelson:
>
>I don't understand what you want. Do you want the "controlled" outlets
>to continue to have power after the computer shuts down? There are
>other outlets that operate independent of the "master" which do that.
>As I understand it the idea behind the "controlled" outlets is that a
>peripheral which is only used by the computer, eg a printer, doesn't
>need power if the computer is down, so to conserve the remaining
>battery power for the useful items, these are shut down in synchrony
>with the computer.

I want the "controlled" outlets to be controlled by the "master"
outlet - at all times, as I think most people would impute from
what it says on the box the power supply comes in - not just when
there is external power.

The reason: if the power goes out, I still want connectivity
across the LAN, but I don't want the UPS' battery tb drained
(which shortens it's life).

Sequence Of Events:
----------------------------------------------------------------
- Power fails

- UPS keeps supplying power to PC connected to "Master" and to
devices connected to "Controlled"

- UPS sends message to PC telling it that we're on battery backup

- PC keeps on truckin'.... with LAN connectivity still intact

- PC's Power Management utility kicks in and, after a preset time
or a preset remaining battery life, commences a graceful
shutdown of the PC

- PC shuts down.

- UPS then shuts down the router, switches, and whatever else is
plugged into "Controlled" outlets.

- The UPS battery does not get totally drained.
----------------------------------------------------------------

Maybe I'm the only one.... But this seems so obvious that I just
can't imagine any other implementation in the context of an
Uninterruptible Power Supply.

The power-saving thing sounds nice, but I go back to the fact
that this is an Uninterruptible Power Supply, and not just a
power strip.

>
>I have one of these and it works just fine. There are "uncontrolled"
>outlets which are supplied with power whether the computer is up or
>down, "controlled" outlets which are only supplied with power when the
>computer is up,

This may sound like nit picking.... but it's not quite true that
they are only supplied with power when the computer is up. What's
true is that they are only supplied with power when the computer
is up *and* there is external power.

> and surge protected only outlets which are not supplied
>with backup power. I would have chosen the mix between these
>differently, but that is easy enough to get around by plugging power
>strips into one or the other types of outlets.
>
>In my set up, I have the external hard drives and printer connected to
>the "slave" outlets and the cable modem and VOIP modem connected to the
>"always up" outlets.

>When the battery is down to 25%, the computer
>shuts itself down along with the peripherals and the modem and router
>continue to provide telephone service. Isn't that the same thing you
>want?

Where are they getting power, if not from the UPS?
--
PeteCresswell

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 1:12 pm
From: Jerry Peters

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.invalid> wrote:
>
> I want the "controlled" outlets to be controlled by the "master"
> outlet - at all times, as I think most people would impute from
> what it says on the box the power supply comes in - not just when
> there is external power.
>
> The reason: if the power goes out, I still want connectivity
> across the LAN, but I don't want the UPS' battery tb drained
> (which shortens it's life).
>
> Sequence Of Events:
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> - Power fails
>
> - UPS keeps supplying power to PC connected to "Master" and to
> devices connected to "Controlled"
>
> - UPS sends message to PC telling it that we're on battery backup
>
> - PC keeps on truckin'.... with LAN connectivity still intact
>
> - PC's Power Management utility kicks in and, after a preset time
> or a preset remaining battery life, commences a graceful
> shutdown of the PC
>
> - PC shuts down.
>
> - UPS then shuts down the router, switches, and whatever else is
> plugged into "Controlled" outlets.
>
> - The UPS battery does not get totally drained.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Maybe I'm the only one.... But this seems so obvious that I just
> can't imagine any other implementation in the context of an
> Uninterruptible Power Supply.
>
> The power-saving thing sounds nice, but I go back to the fact
> that this is an Uninterruptible Power Supply, and not just a
> power strip.
>
>
> This may sound like nit picking.... but it's not quite true that
> they are only supplied with power when the computer is up. What's
> true is that they are only supplied with power when the computer
> is up *and* there is external power.
>
>
> Where are they getting power, if not from the UPS?

And would you want your laser printer to keep running from the
battery? The design seem sensible to me.

Jerry

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 3:56 pm
From: Nelson

On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 10:22:28 -0400, PeteCresswell) wrote
(in article <n8vva7pj628o3cn37k3kadkt5130dgeo7e@4ax.com>):

> Per Nelson:
>>
>> I don't understand what you want. Do you want the "controlled" outlets
>> to continue to have power after the computer shuts down? There are
>> other outlets that operate independent of the "master" which do that.
>> As I understand it the idea behind the "controlled" outlets is that a
>> peripheral which is only used by the computer, eg a printer, doesn't
>> need power if the computer is down, so to conserve the remaining
>> battery power for the useful items, these are shut down in synchrony
>> with the computer.
>
> I want the "controlled" outlets to be controlled by the "master"
> outlet - at all times, as I think most people would impute from
> what it says on the box the power supply comes in - not just when
> there is external power.
>
> The reason: if the power goes out, I still want connectivity
> across the LAN, but I don't want the UPS' battery tb drained
> (which shortens it's life).
>
> Sequence Of Events:
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> - Power fails
>
> - UPS keeps supplying power to PC connected to "Master" and to
> devices connected to "Controlled"
>
> - UPS sends message to PC telling it that we're on battery backup
>
> - PC keeps on truckin'.... with LAN connectivity still intact
>
> - PC's Power Management utility kicks in and, after a preset time
> or a preset remaining battery life, commences a graceful
> shutdown of the PC
>
> - PC shuts down.
>
> - UPS then shuts down the router, switches, and whatever else is
> plugged into "Controlled" outlets.
>
> - The UPS battery does not get totally drained.
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Maybe I'm the only one.... But this seems so obvious that I just
> can't imagine any other implementation in the context of an
> Uninterruptible Power Supply.
>
> The power-saving thing sounds nice, but I go back to the fact
> that this is an Uninterruptible Power Supply, and not just a
> power strip.
>
>>
>> I have one of these and it works just fine. There are "uncontrolled"
>> outlets which are supplied with power whether the computer is up or
>> down, "controlled" outlets which are only supplied with power when the
>> computer is up,
>
> This may sound like nit picking.... but it's not quite true that
> they are only supplied with power when the computer is up. What's
> true is that they are only supplied with power when the computer
> is up *and* there is external power.
>
>> and surge protected only outlets which are not supplied
>> with backup power. I would have chosen the mix between these
>> differently, but that is easy enough to get around by plugging power
>> strips into one or the other types of outlets.
>>
>> In my set up, I have the external hard drives and printer connected to
>> the "slave" outlets and the cable modem and VOIP modem connected to the
>> "always up" outlets.
>
>> When the battery is down to 25%, the computer
>> shuts itself down along with the peripherals and the modem and router
>> continue to provide telephone service. Isn't that the same thing you
>> want?
>
> Where are they getting power, if not from the UPS?
>

You're right. I did some plugging and unplugging and checking. If you
look at the top line of outlets they say "Backup Power + Surge" while
the bottom line says "Surge Only". The three "Controlled Outlets" are
on the bottom so I guess that's intended to make it obvious that they
are surge only (although my initial impression was the same as yours).

I guess the thinking is that you wouldn't want to be running printers,
scanners, etc. when you are on backup power as that would shorten the
amount of time the computer would be able to run. And when you are not
on backup power, it is convenient to shut off peripherals automatically
when you shut off the computer. But I agree it is confusing to include
surge protection only outlets in a UPS.

Another set of outlets which run on backup power but are controlled by
the computer would be useful for attached external hard drives, for
example. That's how I would use them anyway.

I find it a good little UPS for the money. I bought it to get through
short duration outages and it does a good job of it. I don't find the
lack of computer controlled, back up power outlets to be that much of
an issue, certainly at this price point. Not worth getting upset over
anyway :-)

--
Nelson

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse size in IBM ThinkPad T22 wallwart power supply
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/604b8d65c02e3a74?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 7:57 am
From: Robert Macy

On Oct 31, 7:28 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Robert Macy wrote:
>
> > The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
>
> > arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
> > pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
> > around AC mains traces.
>
> > The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
> > the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
> > this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
> > accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
> > to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
>
> > Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
> > so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
> > heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
> > like 5 to 10A ??
>
> > Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
>
> You can get new power supply on Ebay for $8.
>
> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nk...>
>
> --
> You can't have a sense of humor, if you have no sense.

thank you for the URL. Any experience with any of these suppliers?

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 7:59 am
From: Robert Macy

On Oct 31, 8:19 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:34:12 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
>
> <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
>
> I don't think there's a fuse inside. Dry it out as best you can. Give
> it about a week or two in a warm area. Then, try it again. Otherwise,
> just buy another power supply on eBay.
> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
> # 831-336-2558
> #http://802.11junk.com je...@cruzio.com
> #http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
since I avoid eBay like the plague.

but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?

Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
UNDERSIDE!

Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 7:56 am
From: Robert Macy

On Oct 31, 6:41 pm, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l...@charter.net> wrote:
> Robert Macy wrote:
> > The power supply that goes to the IBM ThinkPad T22 got wet!
>
> > arcing sounds, zsst! does not work now. Internally found a blown
> > pigtail fuse. plus, [and this does NOT bode well] blackened PCB areas
> > around AC mains traces.
>
> > The pigtail fuse does not appear to be simple physical caps going over
> > the 8AG type but solidly attached to the metal end caps. Plus, and
> > this ALWAYS happens, the value is UNDER the fuse body and is not
> > accessible. I'd like to simply put asimilarly rated fuse in parallel
> > to check if the problem is only the fuse, but don't know the amperage.
>
> > Anybody know the rating? The main unit is in the range of 16V 3.36A
> > so the fuse could be 1 to 2A, but the wire laying down inside looks
> > heavier. Maybe the fuse is in series with the output ? and is more
> > like 5 to 10A ??
>
> > Anybody have a manual, or URL to find out?
>
> Attach a 55 watt incandescent lamp across the open fuse and use that as
> the test fuse.
>
> And if you don't understand how that would work for you, you shouldn't
> be doing none of this, at all.
>
> Jamie

Forgot about using a lamp as a fuse replacement to limit the current.
Or heater for higher current

Didn't know they made 55W bulbs, found 60W and 40W and one that
switches 50-100-150, but no 55W

Hmmm....that's about 260 ohm HOT, when cold more like 26 ohms. so the
current will go somewhere between 5A down to 0.5A

still safer than putting in a 'penny'

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 8:52 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Tue, 1 Nov 2011 07:59:26 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
<robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:

>On Oct 31, 8:19�pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
>> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=thinkpad+t22+power+supply>

>thank you for the URL, I'm not familiar with using eBay, especially
>since I avoid eBay like the plague.
>but this time, ....any experiences with any of these suppliers?

I resell about 10 assorted laptop style power supplies per month. They
don't come from any specific vendor on eBay. In general, the quality
is identical to what you get from the OEM manufacturer. That's because
they are the same power supplies used by OEM. There may be
differences in labeling and inspection, but that's about all. I've had
no failures or quality problems that I can recall, but I have had some
overheating problems with "universal" supplies, that come with a
variety of tips to fit any laptop. In this case, the T22 power supply
uses the same voltage and tip as many HP and Compaq laptops, resulting
in huge production quantities, and very low prices. If you plan to
continue immersing your power supplies, I suggest purchasing a few
spares. Also, I suggest you get over your phobia of buying on eBay.
For what it's worth, I get better service from most of the small eBay
vendors, than I get from the major online vendors. If eBay and/or
Paypal have somehow offended you, try Amazon:
<http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=laptop+t22+power+supply>

>Yes, there is a pigtail fuse inside. just can't read the value on the
>UNDERSIDE!

Then guess. Read the nameplate for the maximum 117VAC current.
Multiply that by 2 and you have the fuse rating. You could also
visually compare the visible fuse wire diameter with those from your
fuse collection. My power supply says 1.5A maximum at 117VAC. So, a
2A or 3A sounds about right.

>Don't even want to start taking it apart if the rest is dead.

If you're going to try and fix it, first dry it out thoroughly. That
doesn't mean blow some compressed air around the insides. It means
let it sit for days in a warm place to be sure everything has
evaporated. If the immersion was in potentially corrosive liquid, a
clean water wash will be needed. I've fixed several computers, that
were were partly immersed in a tub of rusty water for about a month,
by simply washing the guts, and letting them dry thoroughly. After a
blow dry, they wouldn't run. After a month to let everything
evaporate, all three recovered nicely.

If you plan to probe the insides, make sure you use a 117v isolation
transformer. Both ends of the 300v switching section are floating
above ground. If you don't know how to deal with such voltages and
careful grounding, then don't try to fix it. The life you save may be
your own.

However, for a $10 replacement cost, I wouldn't bother trying to fix
it.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kaypro-II : display video to repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9041846df71ea782?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 8:14 am
From: Enrico lazzerini

Hi at all,
I bought an old computer with the wishing to make it alive. It�s name is
Kaypro-II and it has a 9" green phosphor monochrome monitor composed of a
LR30477 E39164 TOSHIBA CRT and a printed circuit steering Toshiba
TLC-134-TV-0. I tried to supply it with 12Vdc and I noticed that the
cathode of the CRT is lit, while the screen does not turns on and no shows
light even using the knob back adjustment for the light intensity. Wishing
to do TV repair technician I need the wiring diagram of the circuit
electric drive Toshiba TLC-134-T-V-0. Is there someone who has it?
I seem to hear at the power on of the CRT an high-frequency hiss and i
tryed to see if come out a shoke from the flayback transformer but nothing
come out.
Other useful info:
1) on the PCB
SN 23989586 K10MRDO
Toshiba 23879862 TLC-134-T-V-O
There is a chip NEC �PC1031H2
Flyback transformer with those info: TFB1026 2L24DS
2) on the back of the CRT
CRT Monitor LR30477 E39164 E2728531 2A13 3D Hu

Thanks in advance for any support.
Enrico

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to news@netfront.net ---

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 'puter MB's requiring ddr2 memory
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/56807fd5277a8660?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 4:14 pm
From: "Bob F"

mike wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Today I acquired my 2nd MB that requires ddr2 memory, from my usual
> source, the local scrapyard.
>
> The computer-box is a Lenovo, made about 2008 and has a 160 Gb hdd and
> 2 sticks of 1 Gb memory - I'd assume that it is standard ddr2 memory
> except that it says in a one line description on each stick
> "1GB,DD2 DIMM,F", (marked as made by PNY). I have to wonder if it's
> counterfeit and the makers just couldn't spell ddr2; however, I was
> able to find a few references to dd2 memory by DAGS, which mostly
> referred to PC2-4200 memory.
>
> So far, after disassembling, cleaning, replacing the cmos battery and
> reassembling the box, I've not had any luck starting it, not really
> surprising considering I paid a couple bucks for it. I've got five
> different ddr2 sticks now (actually 2 dd2 sticks and 3 ddr2 sticks) ,
> 3 different working power supplys, and just downloaded some tech info
> from the Lenovo site, but I don't know if that's gonna be enough to
> get it running. Anyway, just curious if anyone else is seeing ddr2
> memory marked as dd2. (Okay, I guess I'm gloating a little bit too,
> but know I'm really not entitled to at this point.)
>

What memory does the munufacturer say it uses?

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 5:17 pm
From: mike

IBM did some strange stuff in the old days.
I had a computer that had simms with the same chips, but wouldn't boot.
Legend had it that they changed the contents of the configuration chip
to render them incompatible to keep all the upgrade $$$ to themselves.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 5:28 pm
From: mike

Bob F wrote:

>
> What memory does the munufacturer say it uses?

ddr2 - I still suspect the dd2 sticks to be counterfeit, for one thing
they don't work on a working MB - odd thing is though that with one or
the other or both sticks installed, the cpu fan spins up but nothing
else happens, the monitor stays in sleep mode. I thought I had
another dead MB till I put in a couple of 512 Mb Corsair sticks, then
it started right up.

However, it's not the Lenovo MB that's now running, it's an Asus that
I guess is close enough to be able to use the hdd from the Lenovo,
which comes with Vista installed. At least it's running so far...

My first impressions of Vista is WHAT A DOG of an OS.

Mike

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 1 2011 5:32 pm
From: mike

On Nov 1, 8:17 pm, mike <spam...@gmail.com> wrote:
> mike wrote:
>
> Aren't ddr ddr2 ddr3 incompatible? different notch placement???

Haven't seen any ddr3 yet, but I know that's true for the other two.
>
> IBM did some strange stuff in the old days.
> I had a computer that had simms with the same chips, but wouldn't boot.
> Legend had it that they changed the contents of the configuration chip
> to render them incompatible to keep all the upgrade $$$ to themselves.

I guess I'll hang onto the dd2-ones and keep trying 'em on different
boards, just in case :)

==============================================================================

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