sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* HOLLYWOOD ACTRESS SO HOT VIDEOS AND PICTURES HERE - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/acc78ea8280e5b8f?hl=en
* Foregoing warranty rights - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db33289fb500ca5c?hl=en
* motherboard RAM failures - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
* Backwards electrolytics (again) - 7 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
* Braun 4737 shaver. - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aefcfa1575d5288b?hl=en
* Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
* Please Visit: - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0574cb4adae6e901?hl=en
* Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
* How-To: Common Cause Of Flat Panel PS Failure - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ff5b6703ec041dcc?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOLLYWOOD ACTRESS SO HOT VIDEOS AND PICTURES HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/acc78ea8280e5b8f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 7:25 am
From: devi vithya


http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Foregoing warranty rights
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/db33289fb500ca5c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 7:30 am
From: "N_Cook"


Anyone else coming across this ? Twice in about 2 months, an owner of new
music kit wanting me to repair intermittant faults after being used only a
few times from new. So loosing his warranty rights. 2 different companies ,
reason for first owner foregoing his rights, unknown. This second time
owner was quoted 2 months minimum turn around, sending back to the factory
(import/asembly plant) in another part of the country, but otherwise no
charge. Is there an excessive number of returns these days or what is the
reason?


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:51 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 15:30:03 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

>Anyone else coming across this ?

Yes. It's a major source of my business. Usually it's someone who
has purchased an extended warranty with onsite repair, that is on try
#3 to get it fixed right. Some things just can't be done at the
customers home or office. Similarly, with purchases of Apple Care,
who really don't want to wait up to 4 months to get their whatever
fixed. If they really need their computer to working now, they'll
forego the warranty and deal with a disreputable but fast repair
person like me.

>Twice in about 2 months, an owner of new
>music kit wanting me to repair intermittant faults after being used only a
>few times from new. So loosing his warranty rights. 2 different companies ,
>reason for first owner foregoing his rights, unknown. This second time
>owner was quoted 2 months minimum turn around, sending back to the factory
>(import/asembly plant) in another part of the country, but otherwise no
>charge. Is there an excessive number of returns these days or what is the
>reason?

It's the 2 month delay that is probably the primary incentive. A
friend, looking over my shoulder, casually mentioned that it took a
large telescope manufacturer about 7 months to return his telescope
for out of warranty repair. Delays are also not very consistent. I've
seen amazingly fast turn around by HP and Dell on warranty repairs
(usually exchange for another repaired unit), followed by atrocious
delays the next month, sometimes losing the item. My guess is that
all these vendors are using outsourced repair facilities, which are
having their own problems ranging from too much business (overload),
to variations on ineptitude.

Locally, the various authorized service centers, are constantly
complaining about delivery delays on replacement components. Their
contract with the manufacturer requires that they use only brand new
parts, obtained directly from the manufacturer. No eBay or
cannibalized parts. So, the customers waits, even though the missing
part is sitting only a few feet away.

Drivel: You have no idea how many laptop hinges I repair. Actually,
I have no idea either as I don't keep count, but it's plenty. Broken
hinges seem to be a problem. Some vendors cover them under warranty,
while others claim that since their hinges are perfect, it must be
customer abuse that caused them to break apart.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:56 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 14:51:36 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
(...)

I forgot to include my warranty certificate:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/diploma.html>


--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:44 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Jeff Liebermann"
>
> I forgot to include my warranty certificate:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/diploma.html>

** ROTFL !!

You have inspired me to maybe create something similar.

The audio gear I see and repair is all used in live entertainment, both
portable and installed systems.

At least 90% of the failures are CAUSED by careless an continuous abuse of
the gear - I consider turning all the knobs on a Marshall up to 10 and
thrashing it to death to be in that category.

So, my repair guarantee goes like this:

" I guarantee that if you continue to abuse any item I have repaired for you
OR do again the same stupid thing that caused it to fail before - it is
GUARANTEED to fail again.

The usual service charges apply to all items covered under this guarantee. "

.... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard RAM failures
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 7:48 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 05:15:41 -0400, JW <none@dev.null> wrote:

>On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 08:50:30 -0700 Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
>wrote in Message id: <oui6p6l2pbc53qa6mbghk2q5vfam21qq2u@4ax.com>:
>
>>Corsair "Dominator" RAM series is the favored RAM for overclocking
>>adventures. They even advertise it.
>><http://www.corsair.com/memory/dominator.html>
>>As I recall, when I tore apart one of their DDR2 sticks, it's Intel
>>chips, with a useless aluminum heat sink attached mostly for
>>aesthetics.
>
>Huh? I believe Intel stopped making DRAM back in the 80's.

Y'er right. I recall seeing Intel markings on the chips, but that was
a few months ago, I was in a hurry, etc. I may have been mistaken.
I'll see if I can find a Corsair DDR3 stick and look inside. Randomly
skimming through the Intel validated RAM lists, I couldn't find
Corsair:
<http://www.intel.com/technology/memory/>

Some Googling didn't find any references to the chip vendor(s) for
Corsair RAM. The apparently were using Elpida RAM:
<http://www.zdnet.com/blog/hardware/corsair-pulls-dominator-gt-ddr3-memory-because-of-failures/4886>
but were having problems 2 years ago.
Oh-oh... perhaps old stock DDR3 RAM?

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 10:16 am
From: Meat Plow


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:57:48 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:56:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywattt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I've run several raw digital videos back to back encoding them to DVD
>>but even at 10x encode rate I can't get the CPU load up to more than
>>50%. Not even enough load to speed the CPU fan up past 1800 which is
>>still an idle speed.
>
> Nice, but depending upon how you're running that test, the CPU could be
> waiting for HD I/O, which might explain why it's at 50% idle. Try a CPU
> and/or RAM only benchmark to see how your overclocking is doing.

It's not idling at 50%. That's the highest CPU load that I can manage
with the video software. Actually any software I have. My video card
is pre-CUDA support else-wise CPU load would be less than 50%.

>>Don't really need to burn anything in or force a failure artificially. I
>>might do that if there was a problem.
>
> Awwww.... you're no fun.

Yeah I know. No need to heat the soup up unless it's time to eat.

>>> Nice. One of these days, in my non-existent spare time, I'll build
>>> myself a high end machine. Thanks for the pointers.
>
>>$500 got all three items. Probably lots cheaper now Already had an Antec
>>server case. Has a 120mm fan in back and a vent tube the size of the CPU
>>fan with access to the
>>side case so the CPU draws its own fresh air in. The tube covers the top
>>of CPU fan. I thought it was a great idea.
>
> I've seen a few boxes with fans like that. They work quite well for
> cooling the CPU, but seems to require a 2nd fan to cool the rest of the
> system. I've seen video cards that suck almost as much power as the
> CPU. $500 for all that is cheap, even with todays prices.

The side vent has a tube you can adjust over the CPU cooler. And flairs
at the end so it covers the cooler inside. Just wanted to make sure I
stated that correctly. Sometimes my descriptions suck. There is an
aditional PCM controlled 120mm fan mounted under the PSU on the real
panel The PSU has a load controlled 120mm fan.

>>It's a quiet machine also. Rubber mounted hard drives x3. The case has
>>sound dampening on the sides and a locking cover for the drive bay. I
>>can't handle a loud PC.
>
> I have the same problem. I *HATE* noisy machines. About 2 years ago, I
> went on a noise reduction purge and replaced my office and home
> computers with Dell Optiplex 960 and 755 mini-tower machines
> respectively. Both use a single 120mm fan for cooling. No other fans
> in the box. The fan normally rotates quite slowly, which makes it very
> quiet. When I run Bench95 to heat up the CPU, the fan gets quite noisy.

Yeah the Dell desktops both home and office versions always used a
large slow rotating fan with a shroud over the CPU. Made them popular
for being quiet.

> At full speed, it could probably lift the PC off the table.
> No shock mounting on the hard disk drives. If there was enough noise
> and/or vibration to warrant a shock mount, I would also suspect that the
> drive was off balance or ready to blow. Some boxes allow the side to
> act as a sounding board for the drive noises, which I guess justifies
> sound dampening. I've done as well with stiffeners, battens, and
> fiberglass matting on the sides.

The screws for the hard drives go through a silicone grommet. All drives
make some noise and there's space in this case for 4. I have a mini ATX
case that I used with 1 drive prior to building this. You could hear the
drive spin and click. This case with 3 drives you cannot unless you hold
your ear up to the front.

> Incidentally, I once had a PC (PIII/866) that had no fans. It used heat
> pipes, liquid coolant, and a small aquarium pump to move the heat to
> outside of the box. Worked nice until I found anti-freeze all over the
> carpet.
>
> More recently, I spent some time playing with two "no-fan" ATX power
> supplies. This was one
> <http://www.fspgroupusa.com/zen-400/p/412.html> but I don't recall the
> other model. It had a big copper heat sink sticking out the back of the
> machine. I burned myself several times during testing. Both worked,
> but with limitations. The Zen-400 would accumulate heat inside the
> case, between the top of the case and the power supply. No air flow in
> that area would make the top rather hot. The other would probably scorch
> anything that came in contact with the copper heat sink. Meltdown and
> fire is a small price to pay for a quiet PC.

I used to offer a micro pc to clients. It had no fans either. Sold a few
of them but they weren't upgradeable.

My son has a Intel P4 @ 3ghz. Has a large PCM fan on the CPU. Pretty
quiet most of the time unless he's playing a game. The CPU fan ramps
up and down with the load of the game. It will whine when the heatsink
gets clogged with dust. Can definitely tell when it's time to detatch the
fan and brush and vacuum it out. The maker anticipated this and the fan
is latched on, easy to remove to clean. It's been long enough now for
this one to get its first cleaning. I've cleaned the side vent off
several times as dust gathers rather quickly over the inlet. It's not a
screen but a circle of closely drilled small holes.


--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Backwards electrolytics (again)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 7:56 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:36:31 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> ** With all those damn electros installed in reverse polarity, be a damn
>site easier to alter the DC rails to suit - wouldn't it ??

I thought you would be amused. I don't think that the IC's would
appreciate the reversed power supply polarity.

It took me about 45 minutes to tear down the XPS-200, replace 11 caps,
reassemble, and test. It's now running an overnight burnin. I also
fixed two of the other machines in about 30 minutes each (fewer caps
to replace). What I found interesting was that the XPS-200 again
worked for about a week with reverse polarized caps. My usual 24
burnin is probably inadequate as I didn't bother doing a visual or
thermal inspection after the burnin.

Yes, I also learn from my mistakes.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 8:09 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 21:00:22 -0700 (PDT), stratus46@yahoo.com wrote:

>Good grief man, take some digital pix before you take it apart - at
>least until you get over your brain fades.

Welcome to Learn By Destroying(tm).

I take photos of every customers machine I work on. I blow off the
dust outside (so that it doesn't trash the office), take a few photos,
and then proceed to work on the machine. This has ended a few debates
over missing accessories, mechanical damage, etc. Sometimes, I use
one of the particularly disgusting photos as wallpaper on the repaired
machine. I also take some more photos when I'm done.

However, these were my machines, not customers, so I didn't bother
with the photos. Most were rescued from the recyclers and all of them
had bulging caps. Since these were mine, not customers, all my
customary precautions were ignored. Out of about 7 machines, I
managed to reverse the caps on 4 of them. All had the silk screened
stripe marking the "+" end instead of the usual "-" end. I didn't see
the "+" silk screened marking or bother checking the square pad, until
Phil Allison pointed it out in the first photo. The brain isn't
fading, but the eyesight is certainly going down the drain.
Assumption, the mother of all screwups, is also fully functional.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 9:24 am
From: John Robertson


Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:36:31 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
>> ** With all those damn electros installed in reverse polarity, be a damn
>> site easier to alter the DC rails to suit - wouldn't it ??
>
> I thought you would be amused. I don't think that the IC's would
> appreciate the reversed power supply polarity.
>
> It took me about 45 minutes to tear down the XPS-200, replace 11 caps,
> reassemble, and test. It's now running an overnight burnin. I also
> fixed two of the other machines in about 30 minutes each (fewer caps
> to replace). What I found interesting was that the XPS-200 again
> worked for about a week with reverse polarized caps. My usual 24
> burnin is probably inadequate as I didn't bother doing a visual or
> thermal inspection after the burnin.
>
> Yes, I also learn from my mistakes.
>

An infra-red camera might be of use...or wet-touch each cap after its
been running a while (without exploding).

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech enquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."


== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 10:27 am
From: "larry moe 'n curly"


Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> Out of about 7 machines, I
> managed to reverse the caps on 4 of them. All had the silk screened
> stripe marking the "+" end instead of the usual "-" end. I didn't see
> the "+" silk screened marking or bother checking the square pad, until
> Phil Allison pointed it out in the first photo.

BTW, not all Dell mobos are marked that way.

Do you mean you don't write a red dot next to the positive lead when
you remove each capacitor? :) I do that because I've come across
circuit boards that were marked wrong.


== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:26 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 10:27:03 -0700 (PDT), "larry moe 'n curly"
<larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote:

>Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>
>> Out of about 7 machines, I
>> managed to reverse the caps on 4 of them. All had the silk screened
>> stripe marking the "+" end instead of the usual "-" end. I didn't see
>> the "+" silk screened marking or bother checking the square pad, until
>> Phil Allison pointed it out in the first photo.

>BTW, not all Dell mobos are marked that way.

Yep. This is the first time I've seen boards marked that way and I've
been dealing with PC's since the Apple ][.

>Do you mean you don't write a red dot next to the positive lead when
>you remove each capacitor? :) I do that because I've come across
>circuit boards that were marked wrong.

I usually take a photograph. For major repairs, such as laptops, I
also print the photo, and mark any parts I replace. However, I
haven't found it necessary to mark the capacitor polarity. I have run
into some that were marked backwards, but that was maybe 10 years ago.
More commonly, capacitors where the silk screened markings are UNDER
the capacitor, where they can't be seen. When I do mark something on
the board, I use a UV pen for the top, and whatever I have handy for
the bottom (which can't be seen).

Worst case are some video cards, where the annular ring around the
solder bad is so narrow, that any attempt to solder the pad will
result in a guaranteed solder bridge. These also tend to have no
visible polarity markings of any kind, which adds to the challenge.

The problem here was that these machines were mine, not my customers.
So, I simply ignored all of this, and blundered onward with no photos
or markings.
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:38 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 09:24:40 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:

>An infra-red camera might be of use...or wet-touch each cap after its
>been running a while (without exploding).

I use a cheap IR thermometer with a bit of creative optics to narrow
the viewing angle, or a thermocouple thermometer. I need my finger
tips functional for playing piano, organ, synth, etc. What I found
odd on the GX-520 board with the backwards capacitors, was that they
did NOT become warm:
<http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/msg/feb66e8acd3d46a4>
I measured the temperature and the capacitors were the same
temperature as the surroundings. I would have expected them to get
warm, but apparently not. My guess(tm) is that the plastic insulator,
between the foil wraps and the aluminum case, is also a fair thermal
insulator. While the electrolyte is getting hot and boiling off
belching gasses, there is little heat transfer to the case.

If you haven't broken it and then fixed it, you don't understand it.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:23 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Jeff Liebermann"
>
> I measured the temperature and the capacitors were the same
> temperature as the surroundings.

** As is usually the case when the reverse voltage is only 3.3 or 5 volts.

> I would have expected them to get warm, but apparently not.

** Not IME at such low voltages.

> My guess(tm) is that the plastic insulator,
> between the foil wraps and the aluminum case, is also a fair thermal
> insulator. While the electrolyte is getting hot and boiling off
> belching gasses, there is little heat transfer to the case.

** No way - boiling electrolyte would make the whole cap too hot to touch.
Electro caps are almost like living things - when faced with reverse
polarity, they try to re-form as reversed caps. There is a limit, of course
and much heat will be generated if the voltage is more than a few volts.

Anecdote:

The most alarming example of a reversed electro I ever came across was
inside a *new in carton* 300 watt per channel power amplifier made by Jands
Electronics here in Sydney (a model J600).

One of the two 8000uF, 80V filter chassis mount electros had been installed
in reverse in the factory but the darn thing actually worked for a few
minutes until the AC fuse blew. Some clear liquid was split round the
bottom of the case. On correcting the error - the thing worked OK. Of
course, it got a new cap from me.

Although the amp was new, it had apparently not been used in 8 or 9 years
since manufacture. So I rang Jands and gave them the serial number.
According to their records the particular amp had " gone missing" from the
factory and was never sold to any customer. An "inside job " was suspected.

My customer professed total innocence.....


..... Phil

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Braun 4737 shaver.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aefcfa1575d5288b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 8:24 am
From: "Ian Field"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:imr3oh$2qi$1@dont-email.me...
>> It turns out that plugging in the charger only makes the
>> motor cut out when the batteries are fully charged --
>> which actually isn't a problem.
>
> Dr Land wins again... "We already know the answers -- we haven't asked the
> right questions."


There is another problem though - Braun didn't use old fashioned NiCds for
the fun of it, the NiMh cells aren't up to the motor's high current draw
while shaving.

I got about 5 shaves out of a charge - should be more than 15.


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 9:42 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> There is another problem though -- Braun didn't use old-fashioned
> NiCds for the fun of it. The NiMh cells aren't up to the motor's high
> current draw while shaving.
> I got about 5 shaves out of a charge - should be more than 15.

That doesn't make sense. Like nicads, NiMHs are capable of pumping a lot of
current.

Cells vary in capacity. You can buy NiMH AA cells with 2500 or 2700mAh
capacity. I don't think nicads have ever had that high a capacity.


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 9:50 am
From: "Ian Field"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:in2asr$3ag$1@dont-email.me...
>> There is another problem though -- Braun didn't use old-fashioned
>> NiCds for the fun of it. The NiMh cells aren't up to the motor's high
>> current draw while shaving.
>> I got about 5 shaves out of a charge - should be more than 15.
>
> That doesn't make sense. Like nicads, NiMHs are capable of pumping a lot
> of
> current.
>
> Cells vary in capacity. You can buy NiMH AA cells with 2500 or 2700mAh
> capacity. I don't think nicads have ever had that high a capacity.


Problem is the NiMh cells get pretty warm under full load - obviously not
all of the rated 2400mAh is ending up in the motor.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 9:44 am
From: Meat Plow


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 20:55:20 +1100, Phil Allison wrote:

> What a BORING know nothing, fuckwit bullshit artist

Nice self-description.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 11:12 am
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)


>>> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats
>>> -- then come back when it cools off?
>
>> That's a resettable *thermal* fuse, NOT a fuse designed for
>> overcurrent protection.
>
>I had always thought that at least some polyfuses /were/ resettable.

Polyfuses (in the sense of the term I've always heard used) are
self-resetting, unless you hit 'em so hard that you damage them.

They aren't designed for use at mains voltages/currents, though... at
least, I haven't seen any that are.

The self-resetting thermal "fuses" that you'd find in a bulk eraser or
similar "not intended for a 100% duty cycle - let it cool down!"
device are (I think) of the bimetallic type, somewhat akin to what you
would find in a traditional wall thermostat.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:04 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Tim Schwartz"
>
> Also keep in mind as a possibility that the main filter caps are getting
> tired, and a bit leaky, so that if the amp has not been switched on for a
> week or 2, it might have abnormally high inrush current as the caps
> charge/form back up.

** This is rather fanciful thinking.

An inrush surge ( on a 240V supply) that will take out a T3.15 fuse has to
be in the order of 40 to 50 amps. Toroidal transformers in the range of 220
to 300 VA with rectifiers and filter cap banks will provide such surges
almost every time they are switched on.


> Lastly, the older 'spring wire' fuses seemed more tolerant of the inrush
> current

** Correct, but hard to find them in other than 3AG size and they are much
more expensive.

> compared to the modern chemically treated wire ones.


** Where did you hear this one ??

The ones I use are said to be made from "plated wire" - meaning a thick
tin plating over copper. Some are coil shaped and some are not.


> It would be helpful if you would mention the make and model of the product
> in your posts.

** Bloody oath it would.

What a colossal ASS Kook is for regularly leaving that crucial info out.


.... Phil

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:58 pm
From: Grant


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:12:22 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:

>>>> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats
>>>> -- then come back when it cools off?
>>
>>> That's a resettable *thermal* fuse, NOT a fuse designed for
>>> overcurrent protection.
>>
>>I had always thought that at least some polyfuses /were/ resettable.
>
>Polyfuses (in the sense of the term I've always heard used) are
>self-resetting, unless you hit 'em so hard that you damage them.
>
>They aren't designed for use at mains voltages/currents, though... at
>least, I haven't seen any that are.

Me neither, other thing with polyfuses is that there's approx 2:1 current
difference between trigger point and hold point. I have 16V and 30V poly-
fuses here, generally for 12V or 24V SLA battery powered gear.
>
>The self-resetting thermal "fuses" that you'd find in a bulk eraser or
>similar "not intended for a 100% duty cycle - let it cool down!"
>device are (I think) of the bimetallic type, somewhat akin to what you
>would find in a traditional wall thermostat.

Some are the same thing as used in clothes dryer for thermostat, 100% duty
cycle for years on end ;) Lower temperature for thermostat and a higher
temp one for overheat safety cutout.

Grant.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Please Visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0574cb4adae6e901?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 12:38 pm
From: "mr.jak"


=================================
Explore & discover & be convinced that ISLAM is the truth! ...
Please Visit:
http://www.beconvinced.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:06 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On 3/30/2011 8:07 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > PeterD wrote:
> >>
> >> On 3/29/2011 8:25 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> PeterD wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> On 3/28/2011 1:56 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Guv Bob wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> I have had this DVD/VCR combo unit for over 3 years now, and would like to find out if anyone has found a 3rd party remote control that can be used with it, or if the factory has a remote with upgraded software.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> The device is top quality and the manual is excellent, but the remote is so complicated and non-intuitive that if you don't use it every day, you have to go back to the manual, even after this long time.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> The manual does leave out some basic steps -- like how to set the record speed (which they call "mode"). I'm fairly good with electronics (servicing industrial electronics is my business) and took me a good year before I could make basic settings without looking it up.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Most of the features can't be done from the device and must be done via the remote control which is cryptic. It has way too many buttons, even for a combo unity, and has tiny labels that can't be read in a darkened room. If you hit a wrong button, sometimes it is impossible to figure out how to return the device to normal use without digging out the manual again. My manual is well worn and has many notes scribbled in it now.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> One problem is that when you are using the timer, you have to turn the device off and on with a button other than the ON/OFF button. If your lovely wife comes in and used ON/OFF, it disables the timer, and must be reset again with the special non-ON/OFF button.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer has such a poor user interface. A better designed remote would completely change the usability.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Wrong newsgroup. This is a test equipment newsgroup. You want
> >>>>> news:sci.electronics.repair.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Michael... Careful you posted your reply to the wrong groups too!<g>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> No. I added the proper group.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> I had to read that twice before I realized what you meant...<g> So you
> >> added SER to help the OP out. Sure left me confused!
> >
> >
> > Get used to it. It will happen more and more as you age. :(
> >
>
> Damn, not what I wanted to hear!


Me, either. The VA put me on Insulin and Terazosin today. Like Art
Linkletter used to say, "Old age isn't for sissies!"


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How-To: Common Cause Of Flat Panel PS Failure
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ff5b6703ec041dcc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:20 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bob Villa wrote:
>
> On Mar 7, 9:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > Bob Villa wrote:
> >
>
> > > Do YOU even know how to read? I put this out there...if you want to
> > > add to it from your experience go to it. There are people who are just
> > > trying to save some money and fix things themselves. Lighten up...I
> > > don't need to belong to your fucking club!
> >
> > Posting half assed information helps no one, and bad electrolytics in
> > power supplies have been a problem since the '20s. Also, no one needs
> > your childish rants. There are enough crybabies who pop into the group
> > and think they are a genius, without you.
>
> Hey Mike when can I expect this PSU to fail...a few years from now?
> Thanks for your gracious responses.


When can you post a real question?


--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:38 pm
From: Bob Villa


On Mar 31, 6:20 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:


>

>
> > Hey Mike when can I expect this PSU to fail...a few years from now?
> > Thanks for your gracious responses.
>
>    When can you post a real question?
>
> --
> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
> Teflon coated.

Alas, the mastertech doesn't understand sarcasm.

==============================================================================

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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* HAI - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45d1647c6c5b8116?hl=en
* Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit - 10 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
* CRT vertical deflection -- bad solder joints? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f637b1e686d3f98e?hl=en
* Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix? - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
* motherboard RAM failures - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
* How-To: Common Cause Of Flat Panel PS Failure - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ff5b6703ec041dcc?hl=en
* Backwards electrolytics (again) - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
* Compaq Presario 1230 Laptop Accessing BIOS Setup - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/82c722abeb2ce43e?hl=en
* HOLLYWOOD ACTRESS SO HOT VIDEOS AND PICTURES HERE - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/acc78ea8280e5b8f?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HAI
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45d1647c6c5b8116?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 12:52 am
From: vijay balan


http://123maza.com/75/model419/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 1:20 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Nutcase fucking Kook"
>>
>
> dunno but talking to a philosopher last week for his take on occam's
> razor
> ,
> he put me right in that it is a mistranslation of Occam's raison ...

** Utter bullshit.

Kook is such a retarded fuckwit, god know how he remembers to shit.

..... Phil


== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 1:40 am
From: Mike Tomlinson


In article <in0mdt$q9e$1@dont-email.me>, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> writes

>Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats -- then come
>back when it cools off?

That's a resettable *thermal* fuse, NOT a fuse designed for overcurrent
protection.

--
Mike Tomlinson


== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 1:40 am
From: Mike Tomlinson


In article <pGLkp.1244$5t2.1132@newsfe06.ams2>, Gareth Magennis
<sound.service@btconnect.com> writes

>What's the antithesis of Occam's razor?

Occam's beard?

--
Mike Tomlinson


== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 1:39 am
From: Mike Tomlinson


In article <3aba67f6-dba2-4aa0-a849-ea9d9f988ddb@d12g2000vbz.googlegroup
s.com>, Stroonz <str00ntz@aol.com> writes

> You must be quite the hit with the ladies.

Given that he seems to be obsessed with ass, I suspect he probably hangs
out in his local gay leather bar.

--
Mike Tomlinson


== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:55 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Mike Tomlinson"


** What a BORING know nothing, fuckwit bullshit artist.

The LESS you know about a topic - the MORE you feel compelled to talk
bollocks about it.

I call that sort of rampant narcissism: " pommy disease ".

Wot a shame it ain't fatal.

.... Phil


== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:56 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> "William Sommerwanker"

I love the fact I have a name that so lends itself to stupid wordplay.


>> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats
>> -- then come back when it cools off?

> ** Have a fucking look.

I especially love the way you squirm when backed into a corner.


== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:58 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


>> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats
>> -- then come back when it cools off?

> That's a resettable *thermal* fuse, NOT a fuse designed for
> overcurrent protection.

I had always thought that at least some polyfuses /were/ resettable.
Regardless, thanks for the answer.


== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:01 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker is a Lying Cunt "
>
> I love the fact I have a name that so lends itself to stupid wordplay.
>
>
>>> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats
>>> -- then come back when it cools off?
>

** Have a fucking look !!!!!!!!!!!!!

You STINKING, AUTISTIC ARSEHOLE !!!


== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:09 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker"
>
>>Some Bullshitting Pommy Fuckwit.
>
>>> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats
>>> -- then come back when it cools off?
>
>> That's a resettable *thermal* fuse, NOT a fuse designed for
>> overcurrent protection.
>
> I had always thought that at least some polyfuses /were/ resettable.


** A " PolySwitch " is self resetting and so is a " Polyfuse".

Same basic device.

You fucking RETARD !!!!!!!


.... Phil


== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 6:17 am
From: Tim Schwartz


On 3/30/2011 8:07 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on. The
> owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat break and
> 2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.
>
> Any issues concerning putting in an ex pc SMPS 450W, 250V land mains inrush
> thermistor, unknown specs, other than 14mm diameter, 4mm wide , 1mm diam
> leads, 8R cold , 1R after 20 seconds touched by soldering iron barrel. Other
> than poor physical integrity of the lead "welds" to the body (like disc
> ceramic cap) - will mount on small high temp board and wire into the neutral
> side of the wiring, with plenty of clear air space around.
>
> Other than zero crossing Triac sub-cicuit to delay sw off, not creating
> ferrite core residual magnetism, and delayed switching on also, any other
> ways around this phenomenon other than bad practise uprating of the mains
> fuse? Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
> action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?
>
>

Nigel,

Also keep in mind as a possibility that the main filter caps are
getting tired, and a bit leaky, so that if the amp has not been switched
on for a week or 2, it might have abnormally high inrush current as the
caps charge/form back up.

Lastly, the older 'spring wire' fuses seemed more tolerant of the
inrush current compared to the modern chemically treated wire ones.
Maybe use an old style fuse, if you can find one.

It would be helpful if you would mention the make and model of the
product in your posts.

Regards,
Tim Schwartz
Bristol Electronics


==============================================================================
TOPIC: CRT vertical deflection -- bad solder joints?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f637b1e686d3f98e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 1:36 am
From: Mike Tomlinson


In article <pan.2011.03.30.16.05.12@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
<mhywattt@yahoo.com> writes
>
>Isn't that an unfair comparison?

Tell me how. Not being argumentative, I'd be genuinely interested to
hear why you think it's unfair.

--
Mike Tomlinson

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:55 am
From: "Guv Bob"


Thanks, William. Any idea where to get a programmable remote?

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message news:imsmkn$5e0$1@dont-email.me...
> The problem, Guv Bob, is not so much in the remote control, but in the
> unit's firmware, which requires such confusing operation. Many products are
> designed with no concern whatever as to how people actually use them.
>
> The only thing I can suggest is to buy a remote control that can be
> programmed with IR sequences from your existing remote, AND supports macros.
> You should then be able to create one-button commands.
>
>


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:57 am
From: "Guv Bob"


Thanks, Franc. Very interesting.

"Franc Zabkar" <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message news:h7avo6lho9a5kn8ef84h1o7vgmort3i29s@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 14:04:24 -0800, "Guv Bob"
> <guvbob2003@YAHOOOOOOOOEY.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer ...
>
> FYI, it's made by Funai:
> http://www.funai-corp.com/6pdf/om/ZV450MW8A.pdf
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:44 am
From: PeterD


On 3/30/2011 8:07 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> PeterD wrote:
>>
>> On 3/29/2011 8:25 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>
>>> PeterD wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On 3/28/2011 1:56 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Guv Bob wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have had this DVD/VCR combo unit for over 3 years now, and would like to find out if anyone has found a 3rd party remote control that can be used with it, or if the factory has a remote with upgraded software.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The device is top quality and the manual is excellent, but the remote is so complicated and non-intuitive that if you don't use it every day, you have to go back to the manual, even after this long time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The manual does leave out some basic steps -- like how to set the record speed (which they call "mode"). I'm fairly good with electronics (servicing industrial electronics is my business) and took me a good year before I could make basic settings without looking it up.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Most of the features can't be done from the device and must be done via the remote control which is cryptic. It has way too many buttons, even for a combo unity, and has tiny labels that can't be read in a darkened room. If you hit a wrong button, sometimes it is impossible to figure out how to return the device to normal use without digging out the manual again. My manual is well worn and has many notes scribbled in it now.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> One problem is that when you are using the timer, you have to turn the device off and on with a button other than the ON/OFF button. If your lovely wife comes in and used ON/OFF, it disables the timer, and must be reset again with the special non-ON/OFF button.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer has such a poor user interface. A better designed remote would completely change the usability.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Wrong newsgroup. This is a test equipment newsgroup. You want
>>>>> news:sci.electronics.repair.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Michael... Careful you posted your reply to the wrong groups too!<g>
>>>
>>>
>>> No. I added the proper group.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I had to read that twice before I realized what you meant...<g> So you
>> added SER to help the OP out. Sure left me confused!
>
>
> Get used to it. It will happen more and more as you age. :(
>

Damn, not what I wanted to hear!

--
I'm never going to grow up.


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:44 am
From: PeterD


On 3/31/2011 5:55 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
> Thanks, William. Any idea where to get a programmable remote?
>
> "William Sommerwerck"<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message news:imsmkn$5e0$1@dont-email.me...
>> The problem, Guv Bob, is not so much in the remote control, but in the
>> unit's firmware, which requires such confusing operation. Many products are
>> designed with no concern whatever as to how people actually use them.
>>
>> The only thing I can suggest is to buy a remote control that can be
>> programmed with IR sequences from your existing remote, AND supports macros.
>> You should then be able to create one-button commands.
>>
>>

Believe it or not, I've found them more often in 'outlet' or 'job lot'
stores than anywhere else.

--
I'm never going to grow up.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard RAM failures
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 2:15 am
From: JW


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 08:50:30 -0700 Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote in Message id: <oui6p6l2pbc53qa6mbghk2q5vfam21qq2u@4ax.com>:

>Corsair "Dominator" RAM series is the favored RAM for overclocking
>adventures. They even advertise it.
><http://www.corsair.com/memory/dominator.html>
>As I recall, when I tore apart one of their DDR2 sticks, it's Intel
>chips, with a useless aluminum heat sink attached mostly for
>aesthetics.

Huh? I believe Intel stopped making DRAM back in the 80's.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How-To: Common Cause Of Flat Panel PS Failure
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ff5b6703ec041dcc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:35 am
From: Bob Villa


On Mar 7, 9:13 pm, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> Bob Villa wrote:
>

> > Do YOU even know how to read? I put this out there...if you want to
> > add to it from your experience go to it. There are people who are just
> > trying to save some money and fix things themselves. Lighten up...I
> > don't need to belong to your fucking club!
>
>    Posting half assed information helps no one, and bad electrolytics in
> power supplies have been a problem since the '20s.  Also, no one needs
> your childish rants.  There are enough crybabies who pop into the group
> and think they are a genius, without you.
>
> --
> You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
> Teflon coated.

Hey Mike when can I expect this PSU to fail...a few years from now?
Thanks for your gracious responses.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Backwards electrolytics (again)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:36 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Jeff Liebermann"
>
> It's another day in capacitor hell. About 2 months ago, I replaced
> the bulging caps in a Dell Optiplex GX-520, but inserted them
> backwards.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
> Today, I have an irate customer with a Dell XPS-200 that I sold him.
> Same problem, again:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/xps200-bad-caps.jpg>
> I had replaced 11 caps on this board, all of them backwards. It's
> difficult to see on the photo, but the white silkscreened arrow is "+"
> instead of the usual "-" . Now, I get to check all the other Dell
> machines, where I probably inserted the caps backwards.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/For-Sale-PC.jpg>
> Maybe I should find something else to do for a while? Grumble...


** With all those damn electros installed in reverse polarity, be a damn
site easier to alter the DC rails to suit - wouldn't it ??

..... Phil ;-)

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 3:41 am
From: JW


On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:36:31 +1100 "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au>
wrote in Message id: <8vj3pjF175U1@mid.individual.net>:

>
>"Jeff Liebermann"
>>
>> It's another day in capacitor hell. About 2 months ago, I replaced
>> the bulging caps in a Dell Optiplex GX-520, but inserted them
>> backwards.
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
>> Today, I have an irate customer with a Dell XPS-200 that I sold him.
>> Same problem, again:
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/xps200-bad-caps.jpg>
>> I had replaced 11 caps on this board, all of them backwards. It's
>> difficult to see on the photo, but the white silkscreened arrow is "+"
>> instead of the usual "-" . Now, I get to check all the other Dell
>> machines, where I probably inserted the caps backwards.
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/For-Sale-PC.jpg>
>> Maybe I should find something else to do for a while? Grumble...
>
>
> ** With all those damn electros installed in reverse polarity, be a damn
>site easier to alter the DC rails to suit - wouldn't it ??

Yeah! And take a video for us to see what happens when you power it up.
Extra points for audio. Make sure you use a 600W or better supply,
fold-overs just won't cut it. ;)


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:19 am
From: Stroonz


On Mar 31, 6:36 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
.
>
>  ** With all those damn electros installed in reverse polarity, be a damn
> site easier to alter the DC rails to suit  -  wouldn't it ??
>
> .....  Phil   ;-)


Geez Phil, what kind of Phil Allison answer is that? And a smiley
emoticon? Since you're off your game, I thought I'd take the liberty
and reply to Jeff in the proper Allison manner:

"Jeff LIeberfool"

>
> > It's another day in capacitor hell. About 2 months ago, I replaced
> > the bulging caps in a Dell Optiplex GX-520, but inserted them
> > backwards.

** Are you f**king blind?

> > <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
> > Today, I have an irate customer with a Dell XPS-200 that I sold him.
> > Same problem, again:
> > <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/xps200-bad-caps.jpg>
> > I had replaced 11 caps on this board, all of them backwards.

** Twice? What kind of moron are you?


> > difficult to see on the photo, but the white silkscreened arrow is "+"
> > instead of the usual "-" . Now, I get to check all the other Dell
> > machines, where I probably inserted the caps backwards.
> > <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/For-Sale-PC.jpg>
> > Maybe I should find something else to do for a while? Grumble...

** Yeah, like retire you idiot!

...Phil

How did I do?

Edwin

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 4:37 am
From: "Phil Allison"

"Stroonz"

How did I do?


** Just as psycho, brainless and retarded as ever.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Compaq Presario 1230 Laptop Accessing BIOS Setup
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/82c722abeb2ce43e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 6:43 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net


Hi,

I service TVs, etc. Once in a while, I service my own computers, one of
which is a Compaq Presario 1230 laptop with Windows 98se I bought second hand
a few years ago. You may consider this obsolete, but to me, it is very
useful.

Recently, during power up, I saw "Error, O2BO: Diskette drive A error".
I removed the floppy drive, but I got the same error, which could be
it's controller?

I inserted a bootable CD rom hoping that the boot sequence might start at
the CD rom, but it didn't. It must be A: drive first. Note: The HDD is fine
because I removed it and checked it on anther PC.

If I can change the boot sequence, I can do without the floppy drive,
but to get into the settings by pressing F10, I have to enter a password.
I don't have the phone number of the person I bought it from who lives
out of town.

I removed the RTC/CMOS battery (soldered in) and waited 24 hours
hoping that it may "clear" the password requirement, but it did not.
Maybe I should wait longer?

Pressing F10 presents a screen that says, "Phoenix BIOS Setup Utility"
followed by a prompt for a password. I tried some by guessing, but it
didn't work. I hope the password isn't stored in the BIOS.

Do you know a technique to bypass the password requirement so
I can change the boot sequence?

Thank You in Advance, John

PS, Remove "ine" from my email address


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 6:14 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


jaugustine@verizon.net wrote:

> If I can change the boot sequence, I can do without the floppy drive,
> but to get into the settings by pressing F10, I have to enter a password.
> I don't have the phone number of the person I bought it from who lives
> out of town.

<http://www.elhvb.com/mobokive/edwin/laptops/compaq/Compaq%20Presario/Compaq%20Presario%201230%201232.pdf>

Page 21.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to misquote it.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOLLYWOOD ACTRESS SO HOT VIDEOS AND PICTURES HERE
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/acc78ea8280e5b8f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 7:25 am
From: devi vithya


http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/

http://cinemano1maha.blogspot.com/


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sci.electronics.repair - 9 new messages in 4 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
* PAYPAL WHOLESALE all BRAND(UGG BOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,
JERSEY,T-SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on http://www.24
hours-online.com/. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dbe0813354d4235d?hl=en
* Backwards electrolytics (again) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
* HAI - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45d1647c6c5b8116?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:51 pm
From: Stroonz


Hehe... I think you and I are the only two folk who can see your
posts Phil. Don't worry, I won't plonk you. There is precious little
else on the web that's as interesting as you. Make sure you come up
with a real zinger for me!!!!

Edwin


== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:00 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"William Sommerwanker"

> Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats -- then come
> back when it cools off?
>

** Have a fucking look.


.... Phil


== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:13 pm
From: bob urz


On 3/30/2011 7:07 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> This 300W amp blows correct T3.15A fuses every now and then at sw on. The
> owner left in the last one so I can see it is just "tired" , neat break and
> 2 constituent parts of fuse wire remaining.
>
> Any issues concerning putting in an ex pc SMPS 450W, 250V land mains inrush
> thermistor, unknown specs, other than 14mm diameter, 4mm wide , 1mm diam
> leads, 8R cold , 1R after 20 seconds touched by soldering iron barrel. Other
> than poor physical integrity of the lead "welds" to the body (like disc
> ceramic cap) - will mount on small high temp board and wire into the neutral
> side of the wiring, with plenty of clear air space around.
>
> Other than zero crossing Triac sub-cicuit to delay sw off, not creating
> ferrite core residual magnetism, and delayed switching on also, any other
> ways around this phenomenon other than bad practise uprating of the mains
> fuse? Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
> action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?
>
>

http://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/selecting-an-inrush-current-limiter.html

bob


== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:33 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"boob errs = Google Monkey "

> http://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/selecting-an-inrush-current-limiter.html
>


** Wot a load of utterly irrelevant, mindless drivel.

Musta been written by a marketing puke.

..... Phil


== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 7:41 pm
From: bob urz


On 3/30/2011 9:13 PM, bob urz wrote:
> O
>> Other than zero crossing Triac sub-cicuit to delay sw off, not creating
>> ferrite core residual magnetism, and delayed switching on also, any other
>> ways around this phenomenon other than bad practise uprating of the mains
>> fuse? Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
>> action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?
>>
>>
>
> http://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/selecting-an-inrush-current-limiter.html
>
>
> bob

http://www.ametherm.com/inrush-current/transformer-inrush-current.html


== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 12:50 am
From: "N_Cook"


Gareth Magennis <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:pGLkp.1244$5t2.1132@newsfe06.ams2...
> By the way,
>
> What's the antithesis of Occam's razor?
>
>
>
>

dunno but talking to a philosopher last week for his take on occam's razor
,
he put me right in that it is a mistranslation of Occam's raison ...
I run science talks locally and he will be talking on the philosophy of
science, Nicomachean Ethics, Occam's whatever etc
series details
http://www.diverse.4mg.com/scicaf.htm

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PAYPAL WHOLESALE all BRAND(UGG BOOTS,SHOES,CLOTHES,HANDBAG,WATCH,JEANS,
JERSEY,T-SHIRT,SHIRTS,HOODY,EYEGLASS,CAP,SHAWL,WALLT) and so on http://www.24
hours-online.com/.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dbe0813354d4235d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 8:34 pm
From: POLO TSHIRT


PAYPAL payment wholesale SHOES(UGG BOOTS, Timberland boots ,Munich
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PAYPAL payment wholesale SHOES(UGG BOOTS, Timberland boots ,Munich
shoes,NIKE and so on) free shipping http://www.24hours-online.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Backwards electrolytics (again)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 9:00 pm
From: stratus46@yahoo.com


Good grief man, take some digital pix before you take it apart - at
least until you get over your brain fades.


==============================================================================
TOPIC: HAI
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/45d1647c6c5b8116?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Mar 31 2011 12:52 am
From: vijay balan


http://123maza.com/75/model419/


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sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 7 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit - 11 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
* Samsung HCN4727 Parts - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0cdd12cdd0f43fb?hl=en
* motherboard RAM failures - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
* ROHDE&SCHWARZ - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fdb64593c469f06f?hl=en
* Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
* Backwards electrolytics (again) - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
* CRT vertical deflection -- bad solder joints? - 6 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f637b1e686d3f98e?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toroidal mains Tx inrush limiter - retrofit
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da7ba841cd54d76f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 11:12 am
From: Meat Plow


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:52:48 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

> In article <pan.2011.03.30.16.03.48@lmao.lol.lol>, Meat Plow
> <mhywattt@yahoo.com> writes
>
>>Thought the T mean the size.
>
> T for Time delay :o)

I just thought of something. Ambient temperature does affect current
carrying capability. Maybe this has some influence on Cook's problem?
High ambient temperature over a period of time weakens the fuse material
and after current influx causes the fuse core to 'twitch' many times it
finally breaks. Not unlike a light bulb.

--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse


== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 12:40 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"


By the way,

What's the antithesis of Occam's razor?


== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 12:53 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


Religious superstition?


== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 3:34 pm
From: Stroonz


On Mar 30, 8:22 am, "Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> "Nutcase Fucking Kook"

>
>  **You ridiculous, fucking nut case  !!!
>
> ** Fucking stupid.
>

>  **You    ABSOLUTE   DONKEY'S   ASS !!!

>
>    ** Wot a  COLOSSAL  MORON  !!!
>

>  **You fucking stupid ASS !!!!!!!
>
> .....  Phil

I'm sure I'm one of the very few who haven't plonked you yet and can
actually view any of your posts (and realize that by quoting you I am
actually giving you some exposure), but I have to say that you are one
smooth talker Phil. You must be quite the hit with the ladies.

Edwin


== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:05 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Stroonz"

** Bugger off - IMBECILE

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:13 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Mike Tomlinson"

>
> We have a similar problem at work with cryogenic coolers, which are more
> or less like a fridge - a compressor and heat exchanger. Like you say,
> the fuse doesn't blow, just parts cleanly due to inrush surge at switch
> on.


** What absolute crap !!!

The magnetic inush suge of a toroidal tranny plus filter caps charging will
easily SPLAT an undesized "slo blo" or " fast " fuse completely.


> Don't see why not. Or a 1 ohm wirewound resistor which will dissipate
> 3.15W at peak, so use a 5W one


** ROTFL - what difference is 1 ohm gonna make ??


>> will mount on small high temp board and wire into the neutral

>
>>Are polyswitches used in these circumstances , ie not purely "fuse"
>>action or generic name for devices specific for this purpose?
>
> I would say they are unsafe for use on mains, simply because they
> reconnect the current when they heal. If there is an actual fault in
> the equipment rather than the inrush current blowing the fuse and
> disabling the supply permanently, it could lead to a fire.


** Polyswitches all start of with a very low resistane then go high after
some time at high current - mains voltage rated examples do not exist.

... Phil


== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:16 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Nutcase fucking Kook "
>
> An engineer I know with IBM Hursley has the same problem with large toroid
> Tx on some research kit, he personally was not aware of the phenomenon of
> random remnant magnetisation at switch off, then right/wrong polarity
> mutually coupled across "adds" to the inrush current , until he asked me
> if

** Shame you have totally mis-informed him.

> I knew.


** You know absolutely NOTHING !!

.... Phil


== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:18 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Mike Tomlinson"

> T for Time delay :o)


** The "T" stamp on fuses stands for the German word " Trage" = lazy.

..... Phil


== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:33 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Gareth Magennis"

>
> What's the antithesis of Occam's razor?

** Conspiracy theories - cos they always involve many unnecessary,
unsupported and improbable assumptions.

.... Phil


== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:46 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> Polyswitches all start of with a very low resistance,
> then go high after some time at high current --
> mains-voltage rated examples do not exist.

Then what causes my bulk eraser to shut off when it overheats -- then come
back when it cools off?


== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:51 pm
From: Stroonz


Hehe... I think you and I are the only two folk who can see your
posts Phil. Don't worry, I won't plonk you. There is precious little
else on the web that's as interesting as you. Make sure you come up
with a real zinger for me!!!!

Edwin

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Samsung HCN4727 Parts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f0cdd12cdd0f43fb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 11:25 am
From: "Chris F."


I figured as much.... to the trash it goes.


"Chris F." <zappyman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4d8cb39b$0$3988$9a566e8b@news.aliant.net...
> The convergence amp failed again on this set and damaged something on the
> mainboard, so I'm junking this set rather than gamble any more money on
> it. I have the full chassis here, including 3 good CRTs (blue one needs
> the coolant changed). I also bought a new convergence processor board for
> it, I'm asking $50 for that. The rest of it is open to offers.
> If anyone wants parts from this let me know soon, otherwise it is going
> on the trash (except for the convergence processor, I will list that on
> eBay).
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard RAM failures
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3e25b3ae78058770?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 11:33 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:24:32 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywattt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>Jeff here is my current machine:
>
>Corsair XMS3 4GB PC12800 DDR3 Dual Channel 1600Mhz
>AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition AM3
>ASUS M4A78T-E AMD 790GX Socket AM3
>ULTRA LS600 600W ATX POWER SUPPLY

OK. I'm jealous. I know overclocking can be made to work, especially
if the manufacturers of the board and RAM underspecify their maximum
speeds. So far, there's no evidence that the MSI motherboard was
overclocked, so I'm speculating as to the culprit.

>Built in July 2010. Ran for a month at standard CPU clock.
>Upped 3.2 to 4 ghz in August 2010
>
>Dual boot Mandriva 2010 Power Pack server kernel
># uname -r
>2.6.31.13-server-1mnb

Have you run Prime95 (Win) or MBench (Linux) benchmark to see if you
can kill it? I use that as my QA test for overkill machines.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prime95>
<http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/>
I've seen stock non-overclocked hang or overheat running this.

>Windows 7 Ultimate.
>
>Zero problems/anomalies. Rarely use the Windows 7 anymore but had
>same stability in Manddriva 2010 and Win 7.
>
>Asus M4A78T-E is the overclocker's choice because of all the
>timing and core syncing features.
>
>http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2379

Nice. One of these days, in my non-existent spare time, I'll build
myself a high end machine. Thanks for the pointers.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 11:56 am
From: Meat Plow


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:33:49 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:24:32 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywattt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>Jeff here is my current machine:
>>
>>Corsair XMS3 4GB PC12800 DDR3 Dual Channel 1600Mhz AMD Phenom II X4 955
>>Black Edition AM3 ASUS M4A78T-E AMD 790GX Socket AM3
>>ULTRA LS600 600W ATX POWER SUPPLY
>
> OK. I'm jealous. I know overclocking can be made to work, especially
> if the manufacturers of the board and RAM underspecify their maximum
> speeds. So far, there's no evidence that the MSI motherboard was
> overclocked, so I'm speculating as to the culprit.
>
>>Built in July 2010. Ran for a month at standard CPU clock. Upped 3.2 to
>>4 ghz in August 2010
>>
>>Dual boot Mandriva 2010 Power Pack server kernel # uname -r
>>2.6.31.13-server-1mnb
>
> Have you run Prime95 (Win) or MBench (Linux) benchmark to see if you can
> kill it? I use that as my QA test for overkill machines.
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prime95>
> <http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/>
> I've seen stock non-overclocked hang or overheat running this.

I've run several raw digital videos back to back encoding them to DVD
but even at 10x encode rate I can't get the CPU load up to more than 50%.
Not even enough load to speed the CPU fan up past 1800 which is still an
idle speed.

Don't really need to burn anything in or force a failure artificially. I
might do that if there was a problem.

>>Windows 7 Ultimate.
>>
>>Zero problems/anomalies. Rarely use the Windows 7 anymore but had same
>>stability in Manddriva 2010 and Win 7.
>>
>>Asus M4A78T-E is the overclocker's choice because of all the timing and
>>core syncing features.
>>
>>http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2379
>
> Nice. One of these days, in my non-existent spare time, I'll build
> myself a high end machine. Thanks for the pointers.


$500 got all three items. Probably lots cheaper now Already had an Antec
server case. Has a 120mm fan in back and a vent tube the size of the CPU
fan with access to the
side case so the CPU draws its own fresh air in. The tube covers the top
of CPU fan. I thought it was a great idea.

It's a quiet machine also. Rubber mounted hard drives x3. The case has
sound dampening on the sides and a locking cover for the drive bay. I
can't handle a loud PC.


--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse


== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 4:57 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 18:56:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywattt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I've run several raw digital videos back to back encoding them to DVD
>but even at 10x encode rate I can't get the CPU load up to more than 50%.
>Not even enough load to speed the CPU fan up past 1800 which is still an
>idle speed.

Nice, but depending upon how you're running that test, the CPU could
be waiting for HD I/O, which might explain why it's at 50% idle. Try
a CPU and/or RAM only benchmark to see how your overclocking is doing.

>Don't really need to burn anything in or force a failure artificially. I
>might do that if there was a problem.

Awwww.... you're no fun.

>> Nice. One of these days, in my non-existent spare time, I'll build
>> myself a high end machine. Thanks for the pointers.

>$500 got all three items. Probably lots cheaper now Already had an Antec
>server case. Has a 120mm fan in back and a vent tube the size of the CPU
>fan with access to the
>side case so the CPU draws its own fresh air in. The tube covers the top
>of CPU fan. I thought it was a great idea.

I've seen a few boxes with fans like that. They work quite well for
cooling the CPU, but seems to require a 2nd fan to cool the rest of
the system. I've seen video cards that suck almost as much power as
the CPU. $500 for all that is cheap, even with todays prices.

>It's a quiet machine also. Rubber mounted hard drives x3. The case has
>sound dampening on the sides and a locking cover for the drive bay. I
>can't handle a loud PC.

I have the same problem. I *HATE* noisy machines. About 2 years ago,
I went on a noise reduction purge and replaced my office and home
computers with Dell Optiplex 960 and 755 mini-tower machines
respectively. Both use a single 120mm fan for cooling. No other fans
in the box. The fan normally rotates quite slowly, which makes it
very quiet. When I run Bench95 to heat up the CPU, the fan gets quite
noisy. At full speed, it could probably lift the PC off the table.

No shock mounting on the hard disk drives. If there was enough noise
and/or vibration to warrant a shock mount, I would also suspect that
the drive was off balance or ready to blow. Some boxes allow the side
to act as a sounding board for the drive noises, which I guess
justifies sound dampening. I've done as well with stiffeners,
battens, and fiberglass matting on the sides.

Incidentally, I once had a PC (PIII/866) that had no fans. It used
heat pipes, liquid coolant, and a small aquarium pump to move the heat
to outside of the box. Worked nice until I found anti-freeze all over
the carpet.

More recently, I spent some time playing with two "no-fan" ATX power
supplies. This was one
<http://www.fspgroupusa.com/zen-400/p/412.html>
but I don't recall the other model. It had a big copper heat sink
sticking out the back of the machine. I burned myself several times
during testing. Both worked, but with limitations. The Zen-400 would
accumulate heat inside the case, between the top of the case and the
power supply. No air flow in that area would make the top rather hot.
The other would probably scorch anything that came in contact with the
copper heat sink. Meltdown and fire is a small price to pay for a
quiet PC.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ROHDE&SCHWARZ
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fdb64593c469f06f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 11:45 am
From: "Vale"


Does anyone knows where/how find schematics or repair manual for a vintage
receiver ROHDE&SCHWARZ mod EK56/2 ?
I would like overhauling that receiver I love so much!
thanks

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Magnavox ZV450MW8A Remote Control Fix?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c88c8c3007ad7b2b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:07 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

PeterD wrote:
>
> On 3/29/2011 8:25 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > PeterD wrote:
> >>
> >> On 3/28/2011 1:56 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Guv Bob wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> I have had this DVD/VCR combo unit for over 3 years now, and would like to find out if anyone has found a 3rd party remote control that can be used with it, or if the factory has a remote with upgraded software.
> >>>>
> >>>> The device is top quality and the manual is excellent, but the remote is so complicated and non-intuitive that if you don't use it every day, you have to go back to the manual, even after this long time.
> >>>>
> >>>> The manual does leave out some basic steps -- like how to set the record speed (which they call "mode"). I'm fairly good with electronics (servicing industrial electronics is my business) and took me a good year before I could make basic settings without looking it up.
> >>>>
> >>>> Most of the features can't be done from the device and must be done via the remote control which is cryptic. It has way too many buttons, even for a combo unity, and has tiny labels that can't be read in a darkened room. If you hit a wrong button, sometimes it is impossible to figure out how to return the device to normal use without digging out the manual again. My manual is well worn and has many notes scribbled in it now.
> >>>>
> >>>> One problem is that when you are using the timer, you have to turn the device off and on with a button other than the ON/OFF button. If your lovely wife comes in and used ON/OFF, it disables the timer, and must be reset again with the special non-ON/OFF button.
> >>>>
> >>>> It is a real shame that such a fine device from a good manufacturer has such a poor user interface. A better designed remote would completely change the usability.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Wrong newsgroup. This is a test equipment newsgroup. You want
> >>> news:sci.electronics.repair.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> Michael... Careful you posted your reply to the wrong groups too!<g>
> >
> >
> > No. I added the proper group.
> >
> >
>
> I had to read that twice before I realized what you meant... <g> So you
> added SER to help the OP out. Sure left me confused!


Get used to it. It will happen more and more as you age. :(

--
You can't fix stupid. You can't even put a Band-Aid™ on it, because it's
Teflon coated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Backwards electrolytics (again)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1ce61685a5164a31?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:09 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


It's another day in capacitor hell. About 2 months ago, I replaced
the bulging caps in a Dell Optiplex GX-520, but inserted them
backwards.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
Today, I have an irate customer with a Dell XPS-200 that I sold him.
Same problem, again:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/xps200-bad-caps.jpg>
I had replaced 11 caps on this board, all of them backwards. It's
difficult to see on the photo, but the white silkscreened arrow is "+"
instead of the usual "-" . Now, I get to check all the other Dell
machines, where I probably inserted the caps backwards.
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/For-Sale-PC.jpg>
Maybe I should find something else to do for a while? Grumble...

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:56 pm
From: "Shaun"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:utg7p6dkggh8mvhr8mub58svj828s83vk5@4ax.com...
> It's another day in capacitor hell. About 2 months ago, I replaced
> the bulging caps in a Dell Optiplex GX-520, but inserted them
> backwards.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/GX520-bad-caps.jpg>
> Today, I have an irate customer with a Dell XPS-200 that I sold him.
> Same problem, again:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/xps200-bad-caps.jpg>
> I had replaced 11 caps on this board, all of them backwards. It's
> difficult to see on the photo, but the white silkscreened arrow is "+"
> instead of the usual "-" . Now, I get to check all the other Dell
> machines, where I probably inserted the caps backwards.
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/For-Sale-PC.jpg>
> Maybe I should find something else to do for a while? Grumble...
>
>
>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
> # 831-336-2558
> # http://802.11junk.com jeffl@cruzio.com
> # http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS
>

You IDIOT!!!


==============================================================================
TOPIC: CRT vertical deflection -- bad solder joints?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f637b1e686d3f98e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:28 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:imu10l$dit$1@dont-email.me...
>>> This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know
>>> exactly why something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long
>>> time ago that it's more important to simply get the damned thing
>>> fixed. If that means shotgunning likely components, so be it.
>
>> Shotgunning is, IMHO, very bad practice, and often leads to the
>> creation of more problems than it fixes. I am actually quite surprised
>> that you would advocate doing this, William.
>
> I don't understand how shotgunning can /create/ problems, as long as the
> replaced components are correct replacements. Unless you mean the customer
> might get upset.
>
> As an experienced service technician, you know that the cause of a given
> problem is not always obvious, even after extensive troubleshooting. The
> customer is paying for your time, often more than what the parts cost. Why
> burn up the customer's money when replacing a half-dozen parts is likely
> to
> fix the thing?
>
>

Every component that is replaced, increases the potential margin for error
by the person replacing it. I have had many items cross my bench over the
years, which have been 'elsewhere' first, and have seen wrong values fitted,
caps in backwards, diodes in backwards, damaged print and so on, amongst the
many components that have have obviously been shotgunned, as evidenced by
the flux all over their joints. I have also seen unsuitable substitutes
fitted, where technicians have had insufficient understanding of the
requirements of a circuit's design, and have just put in 'what came to hand'
in order to complete their shotgun.

Very occasionally, it is necessary to replace a block of components, when a
fault is particularly obscure, but I would never recommend it as an
acceptable procedure to anyone who wasn't hugely experienced in the field of
service work, and particularly in the case of a simple problem such as the
OP has with his TV's field scanning, and which would be easily diagnosed
with the use of appropriate test equipment.

Arfa

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:37 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4d932454$0$31449$c3e8da3$c14f6927@news.astraweb.com...
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:Pyvkp.993$KZ7.136@newsfe08.ams2...
>>
>>
>> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:imsmrd$5nf$1@dont-email.me...
>>> Hello? Instead of fussing over it, why not replace all the electrolytics
>>> "in
>>> the vicinity" while the bad-looking solder joints are being re-done?
>>>
>>> This is a common problem in servicing. As an EE, I want to know exactly
>>> why
>>> something isn't working correctly. But I learned a long time ago that
>>> it's
>>> more important to simply get the damned thing fixed. If that means
>>> shotgunning likely components, so be it.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Shotgunning is, IMHO, very bad practice, and often leads to the creation
>> of more problems than it fixes. I am actually quite surprised that you
>> would advocate doing this, William.
>>
>> Arfa
>
>
> I have seen sets (notably Toshiba and Mitsubishi) where shotgunning was
> advisable in addition to replacing whichever single cap might have been
> causing your issue.
>
> Mark Z.

Occasionally, this is true, but only - for me at least - if the manufacturer
has recommended a block of components to be replaced, on the grounds that
some or all of the additional ones, may have been unacceptably stressed or
damaged, by the primary failure. In these cases, the manufacturer or his
spares agent usually supplies 'service kits' of all the necessary
components. Often the case with switch mode power supplies.

As in, for instance

http://www.ohmsupplies.co.uk/

Arfa

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:46 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:imvm1k$cqb$1@dont-email.me...
>>> But I learned a long time ago that it's more important to simply
>>> get the damned thing fixed. If that means shotgunning likely
>>> components, so be it.
>
>> Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on
>> your car, with you paying for his time and all the parts he is
>> unnecessarily fitting?
>
> Yes, if an initial /conscientious/ troubleshoot didn't reveal the problem.
> I'd rather pay for parts than time.
>
> Of course, you can't draw an exact parallel between cars and electronic
> equipment. It's easier to "see" what is wrong with mechanical devices, but
> car parts tend to be more-expensive than electronic parts.
>
>

I'm not at all sure you would say that if one of the incorrectly fitted
parts was the EMU, for example. This, and many of the expensive sensors on
engines nowadays, are usually 'bonded' parts, and once the box has been
opened, the supplier will not accept it back, which leaves you paying for
it, when it was not required. A while ago, I had just this problem with my
local garage, who replaced a cartload of parts and sensors on my engine, for
an idle problem that ultimately turned out to be due to a split in the PCV
hose. I argued with them long and hard about having to pay for parts that
had been shotgunned due to the fact that the guy doing the job had not
correctly diagnosed the problem. I eventually had to settle for a reduced
labour bill to offset the unnecessary parts cost, which they were determined
were staying on the engine, and that I was going to be paying for (at retail
price, just to make it worse)

Arfa

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:50 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:imvpdu$p1l$1@dont-email.me...
>>> Would you be happy for a car mechanic to shotgun a fault on your
>>> car, with you paying for his time and all the parts he is unnecessarily
>>> fitting?
>
>> It's commonly done. Had a girlfriend a few years back who took her car
>> in because it was overheating. They called with the estimate (of many
>> hundreds of dollars), saying they had determined that it needed a new
>> radiator, new water pump, new thermostat, and new hoses.
>
>> I went down there and asked them how they had determined the radiator
>> fault, and they claimed to have pressure-tested it. A 15-second look
>> under the hood confirmed my suspicion that they had not.
>
>> I took the car and replaced the thermostat -- $12 and 1/2 hour -- and it
>> served her for several more years.
>
>> The shop in question is consistently voted winner of the annual
>> "Reader's Poll" in our local rag.
>
>> Oddly, I don't think they operate that way solely to cheat the customer
>> financially. I think they're more driven by not wanting any return
>> complaints. That's why the "Readers" like them -- "they fixed it right
>> the first time!!"
>
> There's also the possibility that a comprehensive makes it possible to
> offer
> a "lifetime" warranty on the repair.
>
>
>> I drove around town for the next 3 months with a giant sign in my back
>> window:
>> "Richard's Auto: As Crooked As the Day is Long."
>> I got a lot of stories from people who saw the sign, about their own bad
>> experiences there.
>
> It goes without saying that if a service shop claims that lots of things
> need fixing, it's probably not telling the truth.
>
> Thirty years ago I worked part-time -- at $6/hour -- for Chestnut Hill
> Audio
> in Philadelphia. The owner said to me "You're not as fast as the other
> people I use -- but nothing you repair comes back."
>
> I had a holy horror of callbacks. It costs the business money, and it
> makes
> the business and the service tech look bad.
>
> By the way, I never shotgunned anything I repaired there, because nothing
> seemed to need it.
>
>

Which is precisely what I'm saying. Yes, there are some items - notably
switch mode power supplies - where it is often prudent, or even recommended
by the manufacturer, to replace a whole raft of parts, but for most general
repairs, the cause of the problem should be correctly diagnosed, and the
(usually) one faulty component replaced.

Arfa

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 5:55 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"


"whit3rd" <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a40cc351-8a75-4797-a32b-b5837a7caadb@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com...
> On Monday, March 28, 2011 5:51:41 PM UTC-7, Arfa Daily wrote:
>> "whit3rd" <whi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:157d392f-817a-4788-b72b-5198c68bb1af@glegroupsg2000goo.googlegroups.com...
>> > On Monday, March 28, 2011 4:15:45 AM UTC-7, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
>> >> In article
>> >> <fa3b18fc-cf26-4f79-8899-e45f302cb1e6@l14g2000pre.googlegroup
>> >> s.com>, Sean Hamilton <sean...@gmail.com> writes
>> >>
>> >> >Is it likely that bad solder joints would cause vertical foldover in
>> >> >a
>> >> >mid-90s CRT television?
>> >>
>> >> Yes, but it's more likely to be a bad cap.
>> >
>> >> Visual inspection is not enough. You need an ESR meter.
>> >
>> > Maybe not; the ESR issues crop up mainly in high-performance
>> > low voltage power supplies
>
>> I think you are missing the point of what he was saying regarding ESR.
>> This
>> parameter is a valid test of the 'goodness' of any electrolytic
>> capacitor,
>
> A test, yes; but not a complete test. The ESR of a 10uF capacitor can be
> good, but it won't do the work of a 100 uF capacitor. A combination
> of ESR and capacitor-meter testing is better, and a test at the
> frequency of interest for ripple reduction is better still.
>
> I wouldn't bother with any of that parameter testing, though.
> If you suspect the 10-year-old capacitor, replace it. You'd possibly have
> to
> desolder to test it anyhow, spend the eighty-five cents to put in a new
> one.


I hear what you're saying, and it does, on paper at least, have some
validity. However, my comments are based purely on many many years'
experience of doing service work on electronic equipment, from all walks of
life from consumer through industrial, and on a daily basis. I replace bad
electrolytic caps all the time. Several items every week will require bad
caps finding and replacing, and in just about every single case, the ESR
meter tells the story. In fact, it is probably the most useful test
instrument to live on my bench, and has paid for itself many times over.

Whilst I accept that electrolytics *do* fall in value, I find it actually
quite rare. Almost always, if a cap has fallen in value, its ESR will also
be out of the window. In my experience though, the reverse is often not
true. Having found a bad cap with my ESR meter, I do occasionally check the
value on my digital C meter, and for the most part, find it to be well
within tolerance.

As to having to remove caps to test them, again this is rare, and quite
impractical on complex switchers which may have many electrolytics, and more
than one that is faulty. I don't know if you are personally involved in
commercial service work, but in today's economic climate, and with the low
value of much equipment, the name of the game is quick and accurate
diagnosis of a problem, and minimising additional costs of time and
materials. I have never been an advocate of 'shotgunning' faults by
replacing components which may or may not be faulty. I have had many items
pass across my bench over the years which have come from other service
outfits who have replaced components 'willy-nilly' that they suspected to be
faulty, but without ever getting to the bottom of the original problem, and
having compounded that original fault in their efforts. I have had caps
fitted backwards, diodes and transistors fitted backwards, wrong value
resistors fitted, print damage and so on. So personally, I like to have a
bit more than a suspicion that a component is faulty, before replacing it.
In the case of electrolytics, my ESR meter, for the most part, does that for
me. In saying that, however, I think that I should also say that I fully
accept that the use of an ESR meter is as much black magic as science and,
although it is a useful instrument when used by its instruction manual, for
the professional user, there is also a considerable amount of interpretation
and 'feel' involved. In 'casual' hands, an ESR meter may be little better
than a multimeter for finding bad caps ...

One place where it can fool you is where an electrolytic has gone short
circuit - fairly rare these days, but does happen. In that case, the ESR
meter will of course, give a nice low reading that will, initially at least,
fool you into thinking that the cap is (probably) good.

Arfa

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Mar 30 2011 6:47 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> Every component that is replaced, increases the potential margin for error
> by the person replacing it. I have had many items cross my bench over the
> years, which have been 'elsewhere' first, and have seen wrong values
fitted,
> caps in backwards, diodes in backwards, damaged print and so on, amongst
the
> many components that have have obviously been shotgunned, as evidenced by
> the flux all over their joints. I have also seen unsuitable substitutes
> fitted, where technicians have had insufficient understanding of the
> requirements of a circuit's design, and have just put in 'what came to
hand'
> in order to complete their shotgun.

Yes, but you and I don't make such mistakes.


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