sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Wanted: information on charger for Rio S50 mp3 player - 3 messages, 3
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94eb0328315f4b4b?hl=en
* Nexxtech TV picture doesn't fill the screen - 8 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8d8b1b435dc3108?hl=en
* World Adult Soulmate - Bestselling Romantic Fiction - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/38430ae963627497?hl=en
* AM Radio =-interference- Is there a plug-in or easy filter - 11 messages, 5
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e5e85ad248a3ff81?hl=en
* Nooby question Panny TC-P65S1 plasma tv - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/424ba8f8e773d599?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Wanted: information on charger for Rio S50 mp3 player
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94eb0328315f4b4b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Nov 15 2013 11:05 pm
From: mroberds@att.net


Beloved Leader <Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com> wrote:
> What was its output voltage?

Probably more than 1.2 V. More below.

> How much current did it supply?

The owner's manual says to charge the battery for at least 5 hours the
first time. The supplied battery is (1.6 * 1.2) or 1.9 watt-hours
nominal. If the five hours was a full charge, this implies that the
charger supplies at least 0.38 watt.

> What was the size of the barrel connector?

Go to Radio Shack and try their selection of Adaptaplugs until you find
the one that fits. If you don't mind spending what they charge for
adapters, buy a multi-output adapter and the Adaptaplug; otherwise tell
them you already have the adapter and buy just the Adaptaplug (which is
still a ripoff at $7). If you can solder, and the Adaptaplug happens to
be one of the sizes they carry in a "regular" plug (in the drawers full
of small parts), buy the "regular" plug instead; it's cheaper. If you
can solder and it's a weird size, just solder to the Adaptaplug pins
later. If you can't solder and it's a weird size, buy their 273-350
cable for $5, to turn the Adaptaplug ends into wires.

> What was the polarity of the tip and the ring?

Go home and plug the plug into the MP3 player. Use a multimeter to
measure the resistance between the negative battery contact and each pin
of the DC plug in turn. One pin will probably show a low, constant
resistance (less than 1 ohm.) This is the "negative" pin.

Now you need a somewhat discharged NiMH cell, some fresh alkaline cells
(AA size is fine, C or D will also work), tape (clear office type is
fine, but anything will work), and wire. Put the NiMH cell in the MP3
player. Tape a wire to the - side of one alkaline cell, and connect
that wire to the "negative" pin of the DC power plug. Connect another
wire to the "positive" pin of the DC power plug, and then touch it to
the + side of the alkaline cell. If the "charge" indicator on the MP3
player comes on and stays on, then you need a 1.5 V adapter.

If the "charge" indicator doesn't stay on, then use more tape and wire
to put a second alkaline cell in series with the first one, - to + .
Touch the wire from the DC power plug to the + side of the second
alkaline cell; if the "charge" indicator comes on and stays on, then
you need a 3 V adapter.

If you can't get any response by the time you get to 6 V (4 alkaline
cells in series), don't go up any further.

If you find a voltage that works, use the multimeter to measure the
current the MP3 player is drawing when charging the battery, and select
an adapter with a little more (not a lot more) current than that. Or,
divide 0.38 by the voltage you found to get an estimate - if you found
that 3 V worked, 0.38 W / 0.38 V = 0.13 A. Select an adapter with at
least the measured or estimated current, up to maybe twice the measured
or estimated current. A thrift store can be a good place to find an
adapter, if you don't mind shopping around a little.

Cut off the existing plug on the adapter (unless it happens to match)
and use the multimeter to figure out its polarity. Wire the adapter
to your new plug and enjoy.

Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.

Also, please be sure to wear appropriate personal protective equipment
while doing all this. You probably don't need arc flash protection at
this power level, but you do need gloves, safety goggles, hand rails,
and if your workspace is near the stairs, a properly-tethered fall
harness. Someone with first aid training needs to be nearby, and it
helps if there is an AED available. :)

Matt Roberds





== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 1:28 pm
From: Beloved Leader


On Saturday, November 16, 2013 2:05:48 AM UTC-5, mrob...@att.net wrote: > Beloved Leader <Kim_Jong_Il@volcanomail.com> wrote: > What was its output voltage?

>>>>>
Probably more than 1.2 V. More below.
[snip a whole bunch of good advice}
If the "charge" indicator on the MP3 player comes on and stays on, then you need a 1.5 V adapter.
[more snippage]
A thrift store can be a good place to find an adapter, if you don't mind shopping around a little.
[snip even more]
You probably don't need arc flash protection at this power level,...
[snip again]
:) Matt Roberds
>>>>>>

I've seen some arc flash videos, and they are quite dramatic. I think I can avoid that fate by being careful.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=arc+flash&sm=12

I have several shoe boxes full of wall warts. It was a thrift store that came up with the computer cable with the odd Rio plug on one end. There are two thrift stores nearby with bins full of cheap, as in $1 or $2, wall warts. At yard sales, they usually fetch less than that. Finding one with the right current and the right voltage and the right polarity and the right size connector is the trick.

I've been thinking that 3 volts was about right.

Thanks for the help.




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 2:33 pm
From: dave


On 11/16/2013 01:28 PM, Beloved Leader wrote:
> On Saturday, November 16, 2013 2:05:48 AM UTC-5, mrob...@att.net

>
> I have several shoe boxes full of wall warts. It was a thrift store
> that came up with the computer cable with the odd Rio plug on one
> end. There are two thrift stores nearby with bins full of cheap, as
> in $1 or $2, wall warts. At yard sales, they usually fetch less than
> that. Finding one with the right current and the right voltage and
> the right polarity and the right size connector is the trick.
>
> I've been thinking that 3 volts was about right.
>
> Thanks for the help.
>

I'd charge it with a current limiter the first time, to be safe.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nexxtech TV picture doesn't fill the screen
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d8d8b1b435dc3108?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 2:38 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"


My experience - boost capacitor, often about 100uF at 35 volts, near the
vertical output IC.

Mark Z.





== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 3:22 am
From: John-Del


If this happened suddenly (one minute full deflection, the next half pix), it's most likely not a capacitor, at least not the only problem.

If it uses an IC for vertical deflection, it it most likely bad or can even have cracked solder along the pins. Try defluxing the pins thoroughly, then resolder with quality solder. If it runs OK, leave as is. Cracked solder is a function of age, heat, and vibration.

If the IC or discrete output transistors is\are bad, replace it and ESR every electrolytic in the circuit. A high ESR cap may not cause any initial symptom, but the IC will fail.



On Thursday, November 14, 2013 9:14:33 PM UTC-5, Rick wrote:
> I have a B&W 5" CTR Nexxtech TV, model 1612002 (used as a lobby monitor),
>
> which when switched on, only displays the top half of the picture normally,
>
> while the bottom half is squashed into a narrow bright horizontal band.
>
>
>
> You can sort of make out that the rest (bottom) of the picture is upside
>
> down. After it's been on for a while, the bottom half starts to extend
>
> further down, and becomes right side up, but is still squashed, so a 1/4
>
> of the screen remains blank. Other than the brightness and V-hold, there
>
> are no other adjustments inside or outside.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any ideas where to look for the reason for this? I have an
>
> electrical background (not with TVs though), so replacing parts would not be
>
> a problem. Any hints would be appreciated. -Rick





== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 9:08 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


On Saturday, November 16, 2013 5:38:02 AM UTC-5, Mark Zacharias wrote:
> My experience - boost capacitor, often about 100uF at 35 volts, near the vertical output IC. Mark Z.

Actually, not in my experience. The boost cap or circuit only speeds up the retrace. What the OP described sounds like high ESR in the main output cap, if the unit has one. Because of the inductance of the yoke winding, high ESR acting like a resistor will cause the top of the raster to be still kinda stretched, but the bottom will be compressed because that is the part where it needs the low frequency component of the waveform. The boost cap only causes problems at the top usually.

I think the problem is going to be a large cap, like a 2,200 uF or so.




== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 9:15 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


>"If this happened suddenly (..."

Good point. We do not know if the guy just got the thing or what. Almost any problem with the caps comes on gradually. It is quite rare that one goes all the sudden. If it does it is usually completely open or shorted, in either case there would probably be no deflection at all.

Actually a model number might help. I got two databases (paid) with a whole bunch of symcures. A print would be great. The thing might not even have an output coupling cap, which would mean the problem is likely the bottom output. (in IC or not)

On the other hand, the ramp cap associated with the vertical driver can also do that. Sometimes those are tantalum and they can fail just like that on occasion.




== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 6:36 pm
From: "Rick"


Turned out to be a FEC 2200uF / 10V capacitor with no
obvious signs of bulging or leaking. Took only a couple of
minutes to fix, and works great again now!

Thanks G² and everyone else for their input !!






== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 6:43 pm
From: Ken Layton


Glad to hear you got it fixed. :)





== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 9:32 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


On Saturday, November 16, 2013 9:43:37 PM UTC-5, Ken Layton wrote:
> Glad to hear you got it fixed. :)

Yes. Now the argument can start. We can talk about whether it was the Christian Fundamentalists or the JEws who are at fault, or if there is no fault because the thing is 100 years old. Then we can go into the Prussian governemnt's involvment in the current middle east crisis.

But let's not forget about the Russians and their hand in not stopping the tragedy of 9/11 which killed almost as many people as hospitals and drunk drivers combined in a month.

Then there are those socio-economic factors that make most of us not give a fuck anymore.

Or we can start picking on Phil Allison. Your call.




== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 10:16 am
From: Ken Layton


On Saturday, November 16, 2013 9:15:26 AM UTC-8, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> >"If this happened suddenly (..."
>
>
>
> Good point. We do not know if the guy just got the thing or what. Almost any problem with the caps comes on gradually. It is quite rare that one goes all the sudden. If it does it is usually completely open or shorted, in either case there would probably be no deflection at all.
>
>
>
> Actually a model number might help. I got two databases (paid) with a whole bunch of symcures. A print would be great. The thing might not even have an output coupling cap, which would mean the problem is likely the bottom output. (in IC or not)
>
>
>
> On the other hand, the ramp cap associated with the vertical driver can also do that. Sometimes those are tantalum and they can fail just like that on occasion.

The OP did post the model number in the original post: Nexxtech model 1612002.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: World Adult Soulmate - Bestselling Romantic Fiction
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/38430ae963627497?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 9:26 am
From: info.angelance@gmail.com



I have from year two thousand written numerous short stories and compendia for the business world. However, I have not yet published a completely finished book despite the fact that it is ready for a final editing and publishing on a software for e-books on the internet. It was a time when I learned how to in a standard set up a writing on a completely finished template into a complete book. The great thing about this software that I use to write my memoirs with is absolutely stunning in that it automatically sets up the text and create a book form each capital for itself. I started using the downloaded software toolbar to go through the entire structure of the book, and it's done in a few hours. But it takes a lot more than just a piece of software to get started with the writing. And this I speak based on my own experience of being a writer full time. I have bridged a knowledge gap that otherwise is so unusual or hardly even occurred in a context of eroticism and loveware.

The comprehensive steps to complete mastery of a writing style are available to all, and there is an endless bunch of different ways to get your own style. Knowledge source using the constituting factor for a decision to be a writer was for me poetry and the study of poetry. I also have a technological academic background and not a literary academic background, I would say. With a very limited literary academic knowledge so I can still today produce a very distinctive writing style which is also my signature and a living language for a reader. I would also like to add that for me personally this level of writing is an extremely large and solid knowledge in itself. With the insight and feedback, I am completely convinced that this level that I am talking about and have chosen to work with, it is by far the best-selling author's style in literature and in the bookstore. If I rather chose a stilted language and a professional editor, what do you think that the feeling of a story had been? In addition, the jargon in high yield use of language is always more formidable with communication while a fiction is more of a feeling and to express emotions.

According to my models in art creation so we find, among other things, a professor from Yale University named Robert j. Schiller. There is also another person who has been incredibly inspirational for me in this work and it is a writer and former principal at a high school in London. She has also contributed with a workshop online where she with her incredible enthusiasm, describes the framework for the structure of a writing career.

Is there anyone willing to write some review and publish it to this resource that I am providing in the write of Intimate and romantic fiction? I am thinking about soon get into the write and sell my produced fiction stories. However, I am very limited today for the spreed of this sort of production because search engines are set restrictive to list my web pages even though it is not aggressive Indecency on the internet but on the contrary as it is about beautiful Intimate and romantic write that is otherwise so extremely popular among some of my fellow writers. Se the web page here and forward it online so that as many as can find this resource, if you like! http://www.mixet.se/romance.html




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Nov 16 2013 11:52 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


Why do I get the feeling this guy is no Joseph Conrad?




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 6:25 am
From: RobertMacy


On Sat, 16 Nov 2013 12:52:35 -0700, William Sommerwerck
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

> Why do I get the feeling this guy is no Joseph Conrad?

Great allusion!






==============================================================================
TOPIC: AM Radio =-interference- Is there a plug-in or easy filter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e5e85ad248a3ff81?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 3:36 am
From: michael.muderick@gmail.com


I have a 1970's GE clock transistor radio. On AM stations, (1060) there is a lot of buzz/hum. However when I turn ON various CFL light fixtures around the house, the hum disappears. Is there a filter commercially available to put on the AC line? Or can I make one? I've tried reversing the plug (that used to work years ago). Any suggestions? TIA- vze2m645 at verayzon dot nat, you know what I mean.




== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 3:45 am
From: "Phil Allison"



<michael.muderick@gmail.com>

> I have a 1970's GE clock transistor radio.

** Still working ??

> On AM stations, (1060) there is a lot of buzz/hum.

** The usual cause is AC supply frequency modulation of AM radio signals
arriving on power wiring in the premises.

> However when I turn ON various CFL light fixtures around the house, the
> hum disappears.

** CFLs nearly all have a 100nF or 220nF capacitor that connects directly
across the incoming AC wires. These reduce any AM band signals to a much
lower level and so avoid the aforementioned supply frequency modulation.


> Is there a filter commercially available to put on the AC line?

** Doubt it.

> Or can I make one?

** A 1uF, 275VAC cap is all you need.

Wired into the back of a regular AC plug.



... Phil






== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 4:38 am
From: michaelm


On Sunday, November 17, 2013 6:45:48 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
> <michael.muderick@gmail.com>
>
>
>
> > I have a 1970's GE clock transistor radio.
>
>
>
> ** Still working ??
>
>
>
> > On AM stations, (1060) there is a lot of buzz/hum.
>
>
>
> ** The usual cause is AC supply frequency modulation of AM radio signals
>
> arriving on power wiring in the premises.
>
>
>
> > However when I turn ON various CFL light fixtures around the house, the
>
> > hum disappears.
>
>
>
> ** CFLs nearly all have a 100nF or 220nF capacitor that connects directly
>
> across the incoming AC wires. These reduce any AM band signals to a much
>
> lower level and so avoid the aforementioned supply frequency modulation.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Is there a filter commercially available to put on the AC line?
>
>
>
> ** Doubt it.
>
>
>
> > Or can I make one?
>
>
>
> ** A 1uF, 275VAC cap is all you need.
>
>
>
> Wired into the back of a regular AC plug.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ... Phil
Thnks Phil. does that cap go in series with one lead of an ACPlug, or across thepower line.




== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 4:59 am
From: "Phil Allison"



"michaelm"


** Fix you fucking settings !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And learn how to read.



.... Phil






== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 9:02 am
From: Nightcrawler®



"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message news:berstkFd1tsU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "michaelm"
>
>
> ** Fix you fucking settings !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> And learn how to read.
>
>
>
> .... Phil
>
>

Learn how to spell !!!!!!!!!!!!!

And, get OE Fix, too. :-)

In all fairness to Phil, after he had his grumpy juice for
breakfast, he did state to put the capacitor across the
incoming AC line i.e. parallel. With a molded plug you would
have to be quite clever, but you may buy a replacement, two
piece plug and wire the capacitor into the circuit, minding
to heat shrink the capacitor leads.




== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 9:25 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


Forget it, none of this shit is going to work. The simple fact is that there is so much shit putting out interference in that band that nothing is going to eliminate it.

You can't shield it from the power line because it is conming in from THE ANTENNA ! You would have to filter the frequencies you want to recieve.

It's different when you are out in a truck on the highway in bumfuct Kansas somewhere. Then AM can work.

Think about it, AM is about one megacycle. Yup, not even Hertz. It's that old. I hate to say it, but AM is just about dead. I used to like CKLW. In fact CKLW used to be one of the most popular stations in the whole country. The problem now is that even your fucking clothes apparently enamate RF in that low band.

Shortwave is just as bad.

There is a damn good reason that the technology has tended toward higher frequencies. In fact, like OVER ten years ago I advocated the elimnination of the VHF band for television. On channel 3 (US, about 60 Mhz) if a car was driving down the road and had a bad spark plug wire it would cause interference.

Fuck that.




== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 10:14 am
From: Nightcrawler®



<jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message news:3d87ceed-3334-4bf2-9ebd-6450e9c8ceee@googlegroups.com...
> Forget it, none of this shit is going to work. The simple fact is that there is so much shit putting out interference in that band
> that nothing is going to eliminate it.
>
> You can't shield it from the power line because it is conming in from THE ANTENNA ! You would have to filter the frequencies you
> want to recieve.
>
> It's different when you are out in a truck on the highway in bumfuct Kansas somewhere. Then AM can work.
>
> Think about it, AM is about one megacycle. Yup, not even Hertz. It's that old. I hate to say it, but AM is just about dead. I used
> to like CKLW. In fact CKLW used to be one of the most popular stations in the whole country. The problem now is that even your
> fucking clothes apparently enamate RF in that low band.
>
> Shortwave is just as bad.
>
> There is a damn good reason that the technology has tended toward higher frequencies. In fact, like OVER ten years ago I advocated
> the elimnination of the VHF band for television. On channel 3 (US, about 60 Mhz) if a car was driving down the road and had a bad
> spark plug wire it would cause interference.
>
> Fuck that.

You seem to be retarded. The OP already stated that the noise was eliminated by
turning on a CFL.

If the OP could kill the power to the receptacle, solder some extension wire to the
cap leads, and then wire the cap across the back of the receptacle. Minding to heat
shrink the leads of the cap, and using a larger heat shrink, encapsulate the cap and
all of the smaller heat shrink. Make the extension leads 6" long.







== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 12:57 pm
From: mike


On 11/17/2013 10:14 AM, Nightcrawler® wrote:
>
> <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3d87ceed-3334-4bf2-9ebd-6450e9c8ceee@googlegroups.com...
>> Forget it, none of this shit is going to work. The simple fact is that
>> there is so much shit putting out interference in that band that
>> nothing is going to eliminate it.
>>
>> You can't shield it from the power line because it is conming in from
>> THE ANTENNA ! You would have to filter the frequencies you want to
>> recieve.
>>
>> It's different when you are out in a truck on the highway in bumfuct
>> Kansas somewhere. Then AM can work.
>>
>> Think about it, AM is about one megacycle. Yup, not even Hertz. It's
>> that old. I hate to say it, but AM is just about dead. I used to like
>> CKLW. In fact CKLW used to be one of the most popular stations in the
>> whole country. The problem now is that even your fucking clothes
>> apparently enamate RF in that low band.
>>
>> Shortwave is just as bad.
>>
>> There is a damn good reason that the technology has tended toward
>> higher frequencies. In fact, like OVER ten years ago I advocated the
>> elimnination of the VHF band for television. On channel 3 (US, about
>> 60 Mhz) if a car was driving down the road and had a bad spark plug
>> wire it would cause interference.
>>
>> Fuck that.
>
> You seem to be retarded. The OP already stated that the noise was
> eliminated by
> turning on a CFL.
>
> If the OP could kill the power to the receptacle, solder some extension
> wire to the
> cap leads, and then wire the cap across the back of the receptacle.
> Minding to heat
> shrink the leads of the cap, and using a larger heat shrink, encapsulate
> the cap and
> all of the smaller heat shrink. Make the extension leads 6" long.
>
>
>
Wouldn't it be easier to put the cap inside the radio?

Be careful with your choice of cap.
I put a quality 600V cap across 220VAC inside the dryer to
bridge the phases to make X10 work. Worked great for two
years before it exploded spectacularly. Good thing it was
inside a metal box.




== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 4:44 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"Nightcrawler®"

> "Phil Allison" <
>>
>> "michaelm"
>>
>>
>> ** Fix you fucking settings !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>> And learn how to read.
>>
>>
>
> Learn how to spell


** Get a life - you fucking IDIOT !!!!!!










== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 4:51 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



<jurb6006@gmail.com

Forget it, none of this shit is going to work.


** So you do not understand the issue.

AM radio often signals "piggy back" into premises on the AC power and are
then re- radiated with supply frequency related modulation - mainly 100
or 120Hz and harmonics.

They also arrive by penetrating walls and windows without such modulation.

The loopstick antenna in the OP's radio picks up either or both.

It may even have a small cap connecting to the incoming AC to enhance the
effect.

Get it now?


.... Phil






== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 4:56 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"mike"


> Wouldn't it be easier to put the cap inside the radio?

** Worth a try - if it will fit.


> Be careful with your choice of cap.
> I put a quality 600V cap across 220VAC inside the dryer to
> bridge the phases to make X10 work. Worked great for two
> years before it exploded spectacularly.

** My post specified a 275VAC cap ( aka class X1 or X2 suppression caps) .

These are specially would to avoid internal corona that destroys ordinary
film caps wired across the AC line.

If you cannot get any, try two 600V film caps in series - that ought to
work OK too.



.... Phil







==============================================================================
TOPIC: Nooby question Panny TC-P65S1 plasma tv
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/424ba8f8e773d599?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 17 2013 3:20 pm
From: Rich Haak


On Monday, October 21, 2013 10:54:19 PM UTC-4, stra...@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Sunday, October 20, 2013 10:28:01 PM UTC-7, Rich Haak wrote:
>
> > I have a viera TC-P65S1 that is throwing a 9 blink code on the power LED. Until now I have been able to power it up by holding the power button for around 10 seconds but it isn't working anymore. From what I can find online, there's a problem with the A board. Is this something I can change with average mechanical and electrical skills? Could it be just a firmware problem?
>
> >
>
> > Rich
>
>
>
> I've resurrected a lot of gear by replacing bad capacitors. I was looking on badcaps.net and someone said they "After replacing those stressed 'lytics," - your Panasonic model - all the high Voltage primaries - it still didn't work. But those weren't the bad caps. I've only seen ONE switching power supply that lost a high Voltage cap. The vast majority are in the control loop and the output caps. Often they are bulging but not always. If they ARE bulging they need to go. I've seen no surface mount caps that bulged but LOTS (LOTS!!) of bad ones. They are THE WORST for failing but are some of the easiest to replace. I use a cutter with a very thin nose and cut them out. Do NOT cut at the bottom as you'll tear off the pads. Cut the cap at the seal crimp point and then remove the seal disc. Then clip off the wide part of the leads, remove the plastic base and un-solder the old flat leads.
>
>
>
> Make sure you buy GOOD caps, not the everyday junk at the local supplier. Particularly for switching supplies, you want high ripple current (low ESR) and long life units. DigiKey's online catalog is easy to deal with and I buy LOTS of caps for work. Mouser is another good source.
>
>
>
> Take pictures so you can get it re-assembled as it was.
>
>
>
> G²

We bought the TV from Best Buy. Extended warranty expired 1.5 years ago. From what I found online, the A board is bad. This is where the input wires plug into. I'm not sure where to buy it from without getting ripped off. Can someone point me in the right direction please? Geek squad price is $350 for the part plus $150 labor.

Also a way to look up the part number and price of the part would be a huge help.

Thanks! Rich




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