sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Why would a DECT Panasonic cordless phone keep losing the wireless link? - 9
messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc34e585e15dfff5?hl=en
* Debouncing Fails on My Remotes periodically! - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f79342b71e0d781b?hl=en
* Headset for Motorola V3XX Razor phone - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4d2f2418cc81d52f?hl=en
* Request test jig suggestion for microUSB phone charging current - 2 messages,
2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d4fd3d1d8e105a63?hl=en
* unusual reverb tank - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83e6ea4422e0d034?hl=en
* Batt charged but unplug shuts - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/239916b681296dcf?hl=en
* OT: TV/film scenario? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d7226526efadecfa?hl=en
* Singer 5522 sewing machine - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/be0433ddb893c363?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why would a DECT Panasonic cordless phone keep losing the wireless link?

http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc34e585e15dfff5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 7:48 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 07:53:03 -0500, John Grabowski wrote:

> *The last time my Panasonic phone did that, I replaced the batteries with
> new ones. Problem went away. If yours are four years old I would think
> that it is time for a battery replacement. Home Depot has them and I think
> Wal-Mart does also.

This might actually be the problem!

After removing all the batteries and allowing the handsets and base to sit
for about five hours today ...
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/11829276385_b88f6d65c7_o.gif

When I put the batteries back, I noticed that all five handsets said to
"Charge for 7 Hours" ...
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/11829272305_f01a1c8679_o.gif

So, I put them all on a 3.5 hour charger:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11829684174_606aa41376_o.gif

And, when I put them back into the phone, they *still* said to
charge for 7 hours!
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3756/11830061806_447da87566_o.gif

So, maybe it's that simple - that the Ni-MH batteries, which are a
few years old, are bad.

One problem though, is that I put the new Ni-MH batteries that came
with the charger in, after charging them on the charger, and the
handsets *still* said to charge for 7 hours.

So, something fishy is going on ... with the charge message on the
handsets ... but I don't know what yet.





== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 7:51 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 13:43:39 -0500, Jeff Urban wrote:

> If they're 2.4 Ghz, wifi could be interfering too much.

They're on 1.9 GHz ...
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/11829460325_b34ca30a30_o.png





== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:01 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Mon, 06 Jan 2014 22:28:25 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> In the USA, there's no GAP support, which means that phones from
> different manufactories not only will not talk with each other, but
> also can interfere with each other. You might try your problem phone
> with the other DECT phones and base turned off.

That's a great suggestion Jeff.

Maybe these other DECT phones in the same house:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2873/11811729095_cafdd2467b_o.gif
Are causing the problem with this DECT phone:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/11811980883_f540a29bee_o.gif

It might also be the batteries, although you can see in the previous
photo that they are fully charged - yet - I charged them today off
the Panasonic base:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11829684174_606aa41376_o.gif

And, strangely, when I ran the registration procedure, they showed
up as being discharged! ?????????
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/11829272305_f01a1c8679_o.gif

So that makes absolutely no sense. I chalk it up to "confused
electronics" at this point - because I can't imagine what happened
to make a fully charged battery indicate almost discharged.

Anyway, as a precaution, I ran the re-registration procedure,
which is described on page 27 of this PDF:
http://service.us.panasonic.com/OPERMANPDF/KXTG6431-MUL.PDF

This is a snapshot of the re-registration procedure:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7353/11829263895_ac761cd5cf_o.gif

Since the menus don't show up until *after* you run the procedure,
I post below sequential screenshots so others who run the registration
procedure can see the cause and effect on the phones:

Press LOCATOR on base 4 sec. Then press OK.
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3708/11829267845_c9363aba09_o.gif
Call from Base:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/11829686934_e1799e3098_o.gif
Base regtr'ing
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/11829272305_f01a1c8679_o.gif





== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:03 pm
From: mike


On 1/7/2014 7:48 PM, Danny D'Amico wrote:
> On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 07:53:03 -0500, John Grabowski wrote:
>
>> *The last time my Panasonic phone did that, I replaced the batteries with
>> new ones. Problem went away. If yours are four years old I would think
>> that it is time for a battery replacement. Home Depot has them and I think
>> Wal-Mart does also.
>
> This might actually be the problem!
>
> After removing all the batteries and allowing the handsets and base to sit
> for about five hours today ...
> http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/11829276385_b88f6d65c7_o.gif
>
> When I put the batteries back, I noticed that all five handsets said to
> "Charge for 7 Hours" ...
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/11829272305_f01a1c8679_o.gif
>
> So, I put them all on a 3.5 hour charger:
> http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11829684174_606aa41376_o.gif
>
> And, when I put them back into the phone, they *still* said to
> charge for 7 hours!
> http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3756/11830061806_447da87566_o.gif
>
> So, maybe it's that simple - that the Ni-MH batteries, which are a
> few years old, are bad.
>
> One problem though, is that I put the new Ni-MH batteries that came
> with the charger in, after charging them on the charger, and the
> handsets *still* said to charge for 7 hours.
>
> So, something fishy is going on ... with the charge message on the
> handsets ... but I don't know what yet.
>

Since about zero percent of people are gonna do that, they might have
concluded that a timer inside the device would determine
that the device had charged all it could and the display was in
terms of "do this" instead of any actual measurement, and be adequate to
direct 99.9999% of users to perform the operation.

Some people are "overthinkers" ;-)
Hmmm...I resemble that remark.




== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:14 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 20:03:55 -0800, mike wrote:

> Since about zero percent of people are gonna do that, they might have
> concluded that a timer inside the device would determine
> that the device had charged all it could and the display was in
> terms of "do this" instead of any actual measurement, and be adequate to
> direct 99.9999% of users to perform the operation.

That might be the case Mike, because I know two things.

The batteries were showing fully charged initially:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3779/11811980883_f540a29bee_o.gif

Then, I removed them and let the phone sit for a few hours:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/11829276385_b88f6d65c7_o.gif

When I then ran my first re-registration procedure, I was surprised
to see that all five phones suddenly showed low battery indications:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/11829272305_f01a1c8679_o.gif

That made no sense because pulling the batteries and letting them
sit disconnected for a few hours couldn't possibly have discharged
them from full to near zero. But it was easy enough to charge them
independently on a Ni-MH charger:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/11829684174_606aa41376_o.gif

Yet, I was again very surprised to see, after 3.5 hours on the
charger (the lights stop blinking on the charger to indicate full
charge) that, back in the handsets, they *still* said they were
low on charge!
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3756/11830061806_447da87566_o.gif

Something doesn't add up - but all five handsets acted the same
way, even with the four new batteries from the charger put into
two of the handsets.

All five phones are now in their respective holders, and, I just
checked the charge, and they went from one bar to three bars, so,
that's just weird.

It's almost as if they'll only charge from their Panasonic
holders, and not from a separate non-Panasonic charger. But,
that makes no sense - so - I really don't know what to make of
this inconsistent data other than to ignore it.





== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 2:50 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


Don't you have a voltmeter? You shouldn't be depending on the base to inform
you as to whether the batteries are actually being fully recharged.





== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 10:26 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 03:41:46 +0000 (UTC), Danny D'Amico
<danny@is.invalid> wrote:

>What I did today was I pulled the batteries out of the five handsets
>and pulled the power from the base, and let it sit that way all day.
> http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/11829276385_b88f6d65c7_o.gif

Ummm... was the phone designed to use NiMH or NiCd batteries? I'm too
lazy to check.

NiMH batteries can be a problem due to high self discharge and
possible overcharging. I suggest that you charge a few of the
batteries in the phones for a day and then remove the batteries.
Measure the voltage which should be about 1.2V when fully charged.
Just let them sit outside the handset for at least 12 hrs (or more).
Then measure the voltage again. 1.1V to 1.2V is fairly normal. 1.0V
is borderline. Anything less than 1.0V is a problem. What you're
measuring is the self-discharge rate, which tends to get worse as the
batteries get older. It's particularly bad with NiMH which can lose
1% to 5% per day depending on temperature and age.

Besides dubious batteries, I'm beginning to suspect you may have
multiple problems. Two independent but incompatible DECT systems, on
the same frequency, are going to cause mutual interference. The
reason the problem is intermittent is that both bases have be on the
same channel in order to cause mutual interference. With 5 (US)
channels to use, you're chances are 1 in 5 of having a collision.
Unplug one base and see if the probleem goes away.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558




== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 10:49 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> Two independent but incompatible DECT systems, on
> the same frequency, are going to cause mutual interference. The
> reason the problem is intermittent is that both bases have be on the
> same channel in order to cause mutual interference. With 5 (US)
> channels to use, you're chances are 1 in 5 of having a collision.
> Unplug one base and see if the probleem goes away.
>

Part of the DECT standard is that a device listens before it transmits. If the
channel is in use, it changes the channel. What happens when all channels are
busy I have no idea.

What you describe was the problem with the old 2.4gHz cordless phones. They
just picked a channel and transmitted on it. The later ones were spread
spectrum, so as far as WiFi was concerned, it interfered on ALL of channels.

Or in plain English, when my upstairs neighbor's phone rang, my WiFi
crashed.

DCT phones work the same way as DECT phones, but on the 2.4gHz or 5.8gHz
band. Again, what they do when all channels are busy I do not know.

This is also why cell phones do not need to be licensed. They only
transmit when asked to by a cell, which in most places is licensed.

If for example, you were to bring a 1900mHz GSM phone to Europe, or a
900/1800mHz EU GSM phone to the US, it won't start transmitting and
interfere with whatever is using those frequencies.


Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379





== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 9 2014 4:10 am
From: Danny D'Amico


On Wed, 08 Jan 2014 02:50:41 -0800, William Sommerwerck wrote:

> Don't you have a voltmeter? You shouldn't be depending on the base to inform
> you as to whether the batteries are actually being fully recharged.

I was remiss in not mentioning that I tested the voltage with my fluke
but the problem, as always, with testing open circuit no-load voltage
is that without a load, a battery that tests good isn't necessarily good.

However, all the handsets are now reading full bars in battery voltage,
so, I'm inclined to assume that the battery-charge indicator on the
handsets isn't really a voltage indicator - but some sort of integrator.

The good news is that it hasn't happened since re-registration; but I also
haven't been on the phone a lot either. I will report back in a few days
to let you know if the problem is solved by the re-registration or not.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Debouncing Fails on My Remotes periodically!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f79342b71e0d781b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:23 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"


Start unplugging ALL electric/electronic devices in your home, eventually you should find a solution. This includes all lights, ANYTHING that runs on electyricity. It could be almost anything that plugs into an outlet or runs on batteries. If you know an electromagnetic compatibility engineer (EMC engineer), they might be able to use a spectrum analyzer to find a noise source. But there are only a few thousand of us in the USA so chances are you are on your own to find this problem. The fact that two separate systems fail simultaneously pretty much says it is not the remotes themselves, but something getting into the receivers.




== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 6:32 am
From: thekmanrocks@gmail.com


Jan 7hrho...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
"Start unplugging ALL electric/electronic devices in your home, eventually you should find a solution. This includes all lights, ANYTHING that runs on electyricity. It could be almost anything that plugs into an outlet or runs on batteries. If you know an electromagnetic compatibility engineer (EMC engineer), they might be able to use a spectrum analyzer to find a noise source. But there are only a few thousand of us in the USA so chances are you are on your own to find this problem. The fact that two separate systems fail simultaneously pretty much says it is not the remotes themselves, but something getting into the receivers. "

Thanks for this draconian suggestion! Lol.

See, this problem happens at random, and might recur two weeks apart, or, two months apart. Relatively infrequently.

The remotes involved are for my 32" Sanyo flat tube TV, and my JVC VHS/DVD combo deck. Both are ten years old but are in fine shape and work flawlessly(aside from this weird remote problem).

The JVC combo remote can also be programmed for basic on/off, channel, and volume of a television. It is thusly programmed to control those functions of the Sanyo.

The typical scenario: I pick up the Sanyo TV remote to adjust the volume, press volume up or down, and nothing happens. I press harder, and the volume just races away - up or or down. I then must run over to the TV and press the volume buttons to stop it.

Ditto the volume buttons on the JVC remote. And they both behave this way at the SAME time. The episode typically lasts minutes, and in a half-hour both remotes' volumes operate normally. And it may not happen again for another week or even months.




== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 8:34 am
From: N_Cook


On 08/01/2014 14:32, thekmanrocks@gmail.com wrote:
> Jan 7hrho...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> "Start unplugging ALL electric/electronic devices in your home, eventually you should find a solution. This includes all lights, ANYTHING that runs on electyricity. It could be almost anything that plugs into an outlet or runs on batteries. If you know an electromagnetic compatibility engineer (EMC engineer), they might be able to use a spectrum analyzer to find a noise source. But there are only a few thousand of us in the USA so chances are you are on your own to find this problem. The fact that two separate systems fail simultaneously pretty much says it is not the remotes themselves, but something getting into the receivers."
>
> Thanks for this draconian suggestion! Lol.
>
> See, this problem happens at random, and might recur two weeks apart, or, two months apart. Relatively infrequently.
>
> The remotes involved are for my 32" Sanyo flat tube TV, and my JVC VHS/DVD combo deck. Both are ten years old but are in fine shape and work flawlessly(aside from this weird remote problem).
>
> The JVC combo remote can also be programmed for basic on/off, channel, and volume of a television. It is thusly programmed to control those functions of the Sanyo.
>
> The typical scenario: I pick up the Sanyo TV remote to adjust the volume, press volume up or down, and nothing happens. I press harder, and the volume just races away - up or or down. I then must run over to the TV and press the volume buttons to stop it.
>
> Ditto the volume buttons on the JVC remote. And they both behave this way at the SAME time. The episode typically lasts minutes, and in a half-hour both remotes' volumes operate normally. And it may not happen again for another week or even months.
>

Assuming its a neighbour with remote controlled house lighting or
something like that , coding on the mains getting to the room lights.
Try temporary spots sloppy-gluing a tube shroud over the sensor of the
units and direct the axis(by cutting an angle to the glue face) of the
shroud to where you usually use the remote (assuming not in line with a
room light of course)




== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 9:54 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


I say it's the remote recieve in the TV. It's getting noisy. If it isn't that it's the microprocessor.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Headset for Motorola V3XX Razor phone
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4d2f2418cc81d52f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:23 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Wed, 18 Dec 2013 17:34:53 -0800, captainvideo462009 wrote:

> I have an old Razor that has no headphone (headset) jack.

I had the same problem.
The Motorola-proprietary wired headphone was too expensive.
So, I ended up with a tiny bluetooth earbud instead.

I never came up with a better solution than that.
That RAZR V3 also used proprietary USB cabling such that it
would charge from a PC but not from any wall or car USB charger.

It would only charge from a Motorola car charger.

Eventually, I switched to a smart phone, which took a "normal"
USB cable and which had a normal headphone jack.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Request test jig suggestion for microUSB phone charging current
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d4fd3d1d8e105a63?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:26 pm
From: josephkk


On Sat, 4 Jan 2014 00:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Danny D'Amico <dannyd@is.invalid>
wrote:

>On Sat, 04 Jan 2014 09:09:54 +1100, Colin Horsley wrote:
>
>> Look on eBay "NEW Universal portable USB power mobile mini Current voltage tester
>> Detector "
>
>Hi Colin,
>That works, but I was just going to slice a cable in half, and then attach
>the inner wires to a series of screws.
>
>What I'm thinking is to screw two row of (five?) brass screws into a
>piece of wood, and then attaching the cable wires to each row.
>
>Then I can either jump the distance with a copper wire, or with the
>meter leads.
>
>But before I build the test jig, someone might suggest a better platform
>out of parts commonly found in the garage or shop.


Oh lordy. For more than nominal charge currents (or standard supported
currents) the thing is "negotiated" with the source device. Get yourself
a copy of the Standard, 3.1 is current, older versions can be found.

Start here:

http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/

?-)




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 7 2014 8:39 pm
From: Tony Hwang


josephkk wrote:
> On Sat, 4 Jan 2014 00:24:58 +0000 (UTC), Danny D'Amico <dannyd@is.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 04 Jan 2014 09:09:54 +1100, Colin Horsley wrote:
>>
>>> Look on eBay "NEW Universal portable USB power mobile mini Current voltage tester
>>> Detector "
>>
>> Hi Colin,
>> That works, but I was just going to slice a cable in half, and then attach
>> the inner wires to a series of screws.
>>
>> What I'm thinking is to screw two row of (five?) brass screws into a
>> piece of wood, and then attaching the cable wires to each row.
>>
>> Then I can either jump the distance with a copper wire, or with the
>> meter leads.
>>
>> But before I build the test jig, someone might suggest a better platform
>> out of parts commonly found in the garage or shop.
>
>
> Oh lordy. For more than nominal charge currents (or standard supported
> currents) the thing is "negotiated" with the source device. Get yourself
> a copy of the Standard, 3.1 is current, older versions can be found.
>
> Start here:
>
> http://www.usb.org/developers/docs/
>
> ?-)
>
Hmm,
Jig? Don'have a bread board?





==============================================================================
TOPIC: unusual reverb tank
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/83e6ea4422e0d034?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 12:25 am
From: N_Cook


Well I've not seen this type before, in a PV studio pro of 1988.
2 springs and 2 coil frames but only one sping per frame. So on diagonal
ends a frame and on the opposing diagonal a taught wire link connecting
the "dead" end of each spring.
Obviously less mechanical power throughput compared to 2 or 3 coils per
frame, offset with more electronic gain presumably. So change of tonal
structure? more bass component equivalent to a tank of twice the length?
or a longer reverb time? or both?




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 5:08 am
From: dave


On 01/08/2014 12:25 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> Well I've not seen this type before, in a PV studio pro of 1988.
> 2 springs and 2 coil frames but only one sping per frame. So on diagonal
> ends a frame and on the opposing diagonal a taught wire link connecting
> the "dead" end of each spring.
> Obviously less mechanical power throughput compared to 2 or 3 coils per
> frame, offset with more electronic gain presumably. So change of tonal
> structure? more bass component equivalent to a tank of twice the length?
> or a longer reverb time? or both?

Neat. AES has MOD tanks for under $20; I'd save the PV as a museum piece.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Batt charged but unplug shuts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/239916b681296dcf?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 2:54 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


wrote in message news:lai92a$are$1@reader1.panix.com...

> I have a laptop (Aspire 1) that says the battery is fully
> charged, but as soon as I unplug, it shuts off.

> What if I put my scissors across the (unplugged) AC side of the
> adaptor? I'm guessing that won't work because of induction?

> Then if I got an adaptor plug just like the one on the adaptor
> and shorted it?

> Do I need to takeout the battery?

> Any shortcuts?

What in the name of heaven are you talking about?


> [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

You have a hell of a lot of nerve calling Windows users stupid, when you can't
even troubleshoot your computer.









== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 5:04 am
From: dave


On 01/07/2014 05:19 PM, vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> I have a laptop (Aspire 1) that says the battery is fully
> charged, but as soon as I unplug, it shuts off.
>
> What if I put my scissors across the (unplugged) AC side of the
> adaptor? I'm guessing that won't work because of induction?
>
> THen if I got an adaptor plug just like the one on the adaptor and shorted
> it?
>
> Do I need to takeout the battery?
>
> Any shortcuts?
>
> I also have a smartphone (SX56) which would not charge, then I replaced
> battery it charged, then when it discharged, would not charge again.
>
> Much obliged
>
>
> - = -
> Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
> http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
> [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
> [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
>
>
>
>
How old is the battery? How many charge cycles? They don't last forever.




== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 12:32 pm
From: Jon Elson


vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:

> I have a laptop (Aspire 1) that says the battery is fully
> charged, but as soon as I unplug, it shuts off.
>
Well, there are a few possibilities. The most likely is the battery
has lost almost all of its capacity. Does the battery have a "fuel
gauge" on it? Can you check it while charging and after you try to run the
computer on battery power?

It is also possible that the battery management circuits on the
laptop have died, so it either fails to actually charge the battery
or can't draw power from a good battery. It is even possible the
battery-laptop contacts are dirty or bent and not making a connection.

Jon




== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 6:16 pm
From: mike


On 1/8/2014 5:04 AM, dave wrote:
> On 01/07/2014 05:19 PM, vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>> I have a laptop (Aspire 1) that says the battery is fully
>> charged, but as soon as I unplug, it shuts off.
>>
>> What if I put my scissors across the (unplugged) AC side of the
>> adaptor? I'm guessing that won't work because of induction?
>>
>> THen if I got an adaptor plug just like the one on the adaptor and
>> shorted
>> it?
>>
>> Do I need to takeout the battery?
>>
>> Any shortcuts?
>>
>> I also have a smartphone (SX56) which would not charge, then I replaced
>> battery it charged, then when it discharged, would not charge again.
>>
>> Much obliged
>>
>>
>> - = -
>> Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus,
>> BioStrategist
>> http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
>> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully
>> disclaimed.}---
>> [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive
>> guards]
>> [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime
>> Bimbos]
>>
>>
>>
>>
> How old is the battery? How many charge cycles? They don't last forever.

Did this just happen? You've seen it work?
Did you buy it used this way?

As a general rule, anything that can be affected by shorting something
is something you shouldn't be poking scissors into. The affect
of the effect is destructive more often than not.


There are utilities to look at the battery directly.
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/pc-wizard.html
is one such tool.
It's a crap shoot, because there are so many different chipsets
in laptops and many different utilities.
But, it it works, it can tell you what the battery is telling
the battery management software about its condition.

If you find a better/more universal tool, I'd like to hear about it.




== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 6:48 pm
From: Allodoxaphobia


On Wed, 8 Jan 2014 , vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> I have a laptop (Aspire 1) that says the battery is fully
> charged, but as soon as I unplug, it shuts off.

"as soon as I unplug" -- unplug what?
"it shuts off" -- what shuts off??

Oh, well, guessing at what actually takes place, if unplugging the power
cable from the laptop - while the laptop is up and running - causes an
immediate shut off of the laptop, it could be due to a bad power
receptacle in the laptop. Happened to me with an old HP laptop a year
ago, or so. There may well be a set of N.O or N.C. contacts in the
receptacle housing that are failing when pulling the power plug out.
Or, you could have broken solder joints somewhere around the receptacle.
It gets a lot abuse in and around that connector.


> What if I put my scissors across the (unplugged) AC side of the
> adaptor? I'm guessing that won't work because of induction?

You are in WAY OVER your head.

Jonesy





==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: TV/film scenario?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d7226526efadecfa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 6:27 am
From: amdx


On 1/7/2014 9:29 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> Anyone ever seen a cops+robbers/ thriller with the following scenario.?
> Someone gets "handcuffed" with nylon cable tie, around a water pipe or
> whatever . And then he uses his mouth and the clasp-pin of the
> conventional strap to his watch to disengage the pawl/latch of the cable
> tie and free his hands and then escape

No, but I did see an episode of "Cop's" where a skinny drug abusing
woman slipped the handcuffs off and attempted to flee. Didn't get far.
She got slammed on the ground for her attempt.
Mikek





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Singer 5522 sewing machine
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/be0433ddb893c363?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 3:14 pm
From: watson.clay@gmail.com


If you're still interested, you can download the manual here:
http://www.singersewingmachine.com/store/products/1087-singer-model-5522-pdf-manual-download.aspx




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 8 2014 3:18 pm
From: watson.clay@gmail.com


We are having trouble getting our 5522 to sew heavy fabric. It is regular awning canvas and should not be any problem for this heavy-duty machine. However the machine stalls when we try to get it sewing. We're using a #18 needle and it is new. We can sew lighter fabric with the same needle and settings with no problem. Any idea what we'er doing wrong?




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