sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Debouncing Fails on My Remotes periodically! - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f79342b71e0d781b?hl=en
* Why would a DECT Panasonic cordless phone keep losing the wireless link? - 2
messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc34e585e15dfff5?hl=en
* Ridiculous manufacturing technique - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/251fb226aca41b21?hl=en
* TV/film scenario? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d7226526efadecfa?hl=en
* Unknown smd code? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d003f6e76ce1b88?hl=en
* jvc rx707v users manual? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28adcd993402463e?hl=en
* Amonits MW9BNK repair question - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93e2df5866005dcc?hl=en
* Durant 1610 series (51610-400) manual only needed! - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c0fc3279990cafb9?hl=en
* William Sommerwanker the Over Snipper from HELL - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/845e39030c509722?hl=en
* Favorite Cutters For Snipping DIP Leads? - 8 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/30d89f0c2d193f6d?hl=en
* Yamaha Stagepas 500W - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ffe9b12e2d51ee46?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Debouncing Fails on My Remotes periodically!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f79342b71e0d781b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 9:14 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


NO NO NO ! Block the window on the TV ! We have already eliminated the remote transmitters.




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 10:43 am
From: Allodoxaphobia


On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 09:14:49 -0800 (PST), jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
>
> NO NO NO !
>Block the window on the TV ! We have already eliminated the remote
>transmitters.

AND, use a newsreader (OP) that quotes previous content correctly!

And, set your newsreader ("jurb") to wrap text around column 72.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why would a DECT Panasonic cordless phone keep losing the wireless link?

http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cc34e585e15dfff5?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 9:17 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 15:22:06 +0000 (UTC), Danny D'Amico
<danny@is.invalid> wrote:

>On Wed, 08 Jan 2014 10:26:04 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>> Ummm... was the phone designed to use NiMH or NiCd batteries? I'm too
>> lazy to check.
>
>Hi Jeff,
>The batteries are the original, and, they're all Ni-MH batteries.
>I noticed a set (white paint) was of a different amperage, so,
>I reassembled all the sets with like-amperage batteries (to
>prevent reverse voltage situations).

I don't believe it. The phones look at least 8 years old. If the
NiMH batteries were that old and left on continuous charge, they
should be nearly dead by now. I have a discharge tester (West Mtn
Radio CBA-II) that can test them. Send me one cell and I'll run a
test (time permitting).

>> NiMH batteries can be a problem due to high self discharge and
>> possible overcharging. I suggest that you charge a few of the
>> batteries in the phones for a day and then remove the batteries.
>> Measure the voltage which should be about 1.2V when fully charged.
>> Just let them sit outside the handset for at least 12 hrs (or more).
>> Then measure the voltage again. 1.1V to 1.2V is fairly normal. 1.0V
>> is borderline.
>
>I ran that from yesterday, Jeff, and they came back at 1.2 volts.

Ok, the batteries are not totally dead.

>So, I must tentatively conclude that the phone itself has a
>summative charging icon, where it might be "timed" in the charger,
>rather than checked at the battery.

Dunno. I've used a few Panasonic handsets around the house. The one
with individual cells ate batteries about every 3-5 years.

>All five handsets, with the same batteries that read nearly dead
>after charging, now read full. I haven't extensively tested yet,
>but, all seems well now (tentative assessment).

Offhand, I would say a bad battery or charger connection. The chrome
plated connections on both the handset and charger base don't make a
reliable connection and must be cleaned carefully. Same with the
internal battery contacts.

>> With 5 (US) channels to use, you're chances are 1 in 5 of having
>> a collision. Unplug one base and see if the probleem goes away.
>
>This might be the reason for the intermittence!
>
>What I *should* do is buy a DECT system with 9 handsets instead
>of two DECT systems for a total of 9 handsets.

Just buying some additional handsets for your existing base might
be a better and cheaper idea. The data sheets list the maximum number
of handsets a base will accomodate. I know of one system with 12
handsets. This might help:
<http://cordless-phones-review.toptenreviews.com/>
Oops. Looks like Panasonic is limited to 6 handsets.


--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 9:11 pm
From: Danny D'Amico


On Fri, 10 Jan 2014 09:17:11 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> I don't believe it. The phones look at least 8 years old. If the
> NiMH batteries were that old and left on continuous charge, they
> should be nearly dead by now. I have a discharge tester (West Mtn
> Radio CBA-II) that can test them. Send me one cell and I'll run a
> test (time permitting).

Hi Jeff,
The phones *are* old. I agree.

And, those yellow Ni-MH AAA batteries are the originals.
So, I must have done the voltage test wrong.

Let me explain what I did, so we can see what I did wrong.

1. Here are four of the handsets, with full battery indicators:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2886/11882484886_4839174995_o.gif

2. Flipping them over, only two currently have original batteries:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3797/11882074284_ee4763c59f_o.gif

3. Opening one, I find the battery open-circuit voltage is 1.4VDC:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/11881637505_1ba94a31d5_o.gif

4. Likewise, the other battery is 1.4VDC, with no load on it:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2810/11881914203_f2b50e19ea_o.gif

5. Yet, putting them back, the phone now indicates a low battery:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3742/11882073034_b75d2d560e_o.gif

Conclusion?
A freshly charged battery (hot off the phone cradle), reads good;
but the phone charge indicator reads full at first, and then almost
empty after merely removing and then replacing the batteries.

6. Similar voltages were found for the other handset batteries:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2824/11882072184_59ba294c4e_o.gif
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/11881635665_24a4718078_o.gif

7. The replacement batteries read slightly higher voltages:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/11882071034_45f3c6231e_o.gif

8. Yet, all read low when immediately put back in the handset:
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5482/11881635265_a2ba55592c_o.gif

I'm not sure what to make of this data ...






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ridiculous manufacturing technique
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/251fb226aca41b21?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 9:58 am
From: Cydrome Leader


N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> On 10/01/2014 14:36, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>> Blimey, I have just had one of these in for repair:
>>
>> http://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/traktor/dj-controllers/traktor-kontrol-s4/
>>
>>
>> All the pots and data encoders are soldered to the PCB's as usual, and are
>> then fixed by the usual hex nuts to the top of the chassis.
>> BUT, the various top surface metal and plastic plates with all the legends
>> on are then GLUED over all these nuts.
>>
>> The only way to remove the PCB's is to remove all these top plates, which
>> you can't do without severely damaging them as the glue bond is so strong.
>>
>> These are obviously not designed to be repaired or serviced, unless you want
>> to buy a complete new set of top decal plates, which you almost certainly
>> can't cos these will be made in china and spares aren't available etc etc.
>>
>> And these are not cheap either.
>>
>>
>> Cuh.
>>
>>
>
> does warming with hot air gun weaken the glue bond?

sometimes drops of isopropyl alcohol will soften that weird fiber/glue
stuff they use to hold decal down with.

still seems like a shity design, most likely just to be cheap than
anything else.

The entire of consumables for simply opening something up has always
annoyed me. At least with stuff like laptops real makers do offer the
replacement screws and screw cover kits which come with replacement parts
that require their removal.

Ending the use of lead-soft flat headed screws that will cam out after any
use would still be better.







== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 11:26 am
From: N_Cook


On 10/01/2014 16:19, Gareth Magennis wrote:
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:lap3vf$cgv$1@dont-email.me...
>> On 10/01/2014 14:36, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>> Blimey, I have just had one of these in for repair:
>>>
>>> http://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/traktor/dj-controllers/traktor-kontrol-s4/
>>>
>>>
>>> All the pots and data encoders are soldered to the PCB's as usual, and
>>> are
>>> then fixed by the usual hex nuts to the top of the chassis.
>>> BUT, the various top surface metal and plastic plates with all the
>>> legends
>>> on are then GLUED over all these nuts.
>>>
>>> The only way to remove the PCB's is to remove all these top plates, which
>>> you can't do without severely damaging them as the glue bond is so
>>> strong.
>>>
>>> These are obviously not designed to be repaired or serviced, unless you
>>> want
>>> to buy a complete new set of top decal plates, which you almost certainly
>>> can't cos these will be made in china and spares aren't available etc
>>> etc.
>>>
>>> And these are not cheap either.
>>>
>>>
>>> Cuh.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> does warming with hot air gun weaken the glue bond?
>
>
> I was going to attempt that but I specifically needed to heat the area
> around the 7 segment LED display which has a very thin transparent cover.
>
> This unit is old now, and has had beer spilt in it, there is lots wrong with
> it, I don't think I will be able to obtain spare parts for it, so I
> abandoned the whole thing as uneconomic to repair.
>
> The owner is going to attempt to send it back to the manufacturers.
> Good luck there, mate.
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>

for next time , just mask off the display area or even pre-chill with
freezer spray




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 11:29 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"




"Cydrome Leader" wrote in message news:lapccv$1et$2@reader1.panix.com...

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> On 10/01/2014 14:36, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>> Blimey, I have just had one of these in for repair:
>>
>> http://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/traktor/dj-controllers/traktor-kontrol-s4/
>>
>>
>> All the pots and data encoders are soldered to the PCB's as usual, and
>> are
>> then fixed by the usual hex nuts to the top of the chassis.
>> BUT, the various top surface metal and plastic plates with all the
>> legends
>> on are then GLUED over all these nuts.
>>
>> The only way to remove the PCB's is to remove all these top plates, which
>> you can't do without severely damaging them as the glue bond is so
>> strong.
>>
>> These are obviously not designed to be repaired or serviced, unless you
>> want
>> to buy a complete new set of top decal plates, which you almost certainly
>> can't cos these will be made in china and spares aren't available etc
>> etc.
>>
>> And these are not cheap either.
>>
>>
>> Cuh.
>>
>>
>
> does warming with hot air gun weaken the glue bond?

sometimes drops of isopropyl alcohol will soften that weird fiber/glue
stuff they use to hold decal down with.




I did take one small metal panel off just to confirm there were nuts
underneath.
It got a little mangled, and it looks like the "glue" is sheets of double
sided (very strong) adhesive medium covering the entire panel area.

I could probably have got it off unscathed with a hot air gun, but the more
delicate plastic panels might be a different story.

If it hadn't been full of beer and needing at least a couple of unobtanium
faders I might have thought it worth persevering.
As it was it just got my goat on a friday afternoon, and I fancied a good
vent on usenet!



Cheers,


Gareth.






==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV/film scenario?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d7226526efadecfa?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 10:05 am
From: Cydrome Leader


William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> "RobertMacy" wrote in message news:op.w9bv6mas2cx0wh@ajm...
>
>> However, the breaker may, or may not, have gone off.
>> Depends on the kind of breaker.
>
> About 15 years ago, a fire marshal (not Jim Carrey) warned me about the
> thermal breakers common in outlet strips. He said they often have a high
> resistance, and under heavy loads (though not higher than those the strip was
> rated for) could overheat and start a fire.

they sure do.

I've seen multiple fires (limited to the power strip) caused by these
pieces of junk.

Just came across a mini air compressor with a ~1HP motor (which of course
said 4HP on the label) that kept cutting out. Resistance of the 17A push
to reset breaker was almost 2 ohms, after being reset.

Not too surprisingly the thing would buzz loudly, never start, then trip.
Somebody else replaced the breaker and it still won't start, but it
doesn't trip now.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Unknown smd code?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9d003f6e76ce1b88?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 11:31 am
From: N_Cook


On 09/01/2014 22:57, nalog.gugla@gmail.com wrote:
> Anyone please-got burned components but cannot find in any available catalogs nor google what they are:
> sot89(4pin) and marking code '1F'(possibly same as the one marked '322018')
> sc59(3p) and '2127'
> thanks in advance
>

Try googling, an idea of its function may narrow down a bit

"1F" AND "filetype:pdf" "top code" OR "topcode" OR "top mark" OR
"topmark" OR "marking" OR "code"




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 2:55 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



nalog.gugla@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Anyone please-got burned components but cannot find in any available catalogs nor google what they are:
> sot89(4pin) and marking code '1F'(possibly same as the one marked '322018')
> sc59(3p) and '2127'
> thanks in advance




http://www.marsport.org.uk/smd/mainframe.htm has a lot of codes.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: jvc rx707v users manual?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28adcd993402463e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 11:56 am
From: x64lancex@gmail.com


On Monday, July 29, 2013 5:13:28 AM UTC-7, William Sommerwerck wrote:
> "Kurt" wrote in message
>
> news:113dc$51f5deeb$43de0cc0$16678@news.flashnewsgroups.com...
>
>
>
> *I am the proud owner of a JVC RX707v surround sound receiver.
>
> I need a user's manual so I can discover how use all of it's features.
>
> I have done a long search on the web. Any suggestions as to where
>
> I might find one? Thanks for your time.*
>
>
>
> I found it in ten seconds. Look again.

YOUR A DICK





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Amonits MW9BNK repair question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/93e2df5866005dcc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 2:20 pm
From: SteveF


I have a Amonits MW9BNK 19 inch TFT display.

First - Does this look like a bad capacitor? The goo coming
out the top and out by the legs makes it seem suspect.

http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab172/ncsnbsmf/BadCap_zps3dc33b16.jpg

I could not find any information on this model, but the power supply is
an Emax:

PWR0501904004A
Rev. 1
J700330004DP

Symptoms:

Over a period of time the color quality diminished.
Recently (on boot-up) the BIOS screen would show up
and then when Windows XP started to load the screen
would go blank. After the PC stopped making hard
drive noises, cycling the power on/off would bring
the screen back on. The display would function with
poor color/contrast/brightness/whatever until the
resolution was changed, then the display would go
blank again.

I recently started using a 42 inch plasma TV as a
primary display to get better color balance and
display properties. However, I hooked up the Amonits
without changing the resolution back down to its
native resolution, and the Amonits has not worked
since.

It will appear to try and cycle on, then make a weird
electronic noise, then cycle on and off, without any
information being displayed on the screen. The display
will seemingly cycle power on/off as indicated by the
power LED on the front of the display.

Question:

Do any of you think that replacement of this capacitor
might fix the problem, or is this unit a basket case?

I could not find any other parts on the power supply
board, or the display board, that looked bad. I am
using the RGB input port and do not have a DVI output
from the PC.

Any information that may be available would be appreciated.
Looking up the power supply did not bring much, either.
This is a cheap, made in China display that I wish to
use for text type use (such as reading this group) when
the TV is in use as a TV.

Thank you,
Steve






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Durant 1610 series (51610-400) manual only needed!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c0fc3279990cafb9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 4:25 pm
From: "Maynard A. Philbrook Jr."




AS it saids there, I need the user manual for a
Durant 1610 series rate/ratio/counter

I believe the PN 51610-400 is close enough.

I can find a few places that are willing to sell a
complete unit but we don't want that, we already have
several but they don't have any pin definitions on teh
headers and we have no manual.

We are migrating some electronics..

Thanks to any one that knows where I can down load just
the user manual..

Jamie





==============================================================================
TOPIC: William Sommerwanker the Over Snipper from HELL
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/845e39030c509722?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 4:29 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"William Sommerwanker"


>> Fine. Nothing new.
>
> ** All new to YOU, fuckhead.
>
> I've killed men for less than that.

** Another idiotic lie.

> I wasn't expecting you to repeat common knowledge about rechargeable
> batteries.

** And I didn't.

To your claim of "odd battery problem" - I replied:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You are describing the standard "old age" failure mode of most NiCds.

1. The internal resistance of some or all the cells in a pack rises - often
dramatically.

2. The energy capacity drops by a large factor.

3. The pack will not hold charge due to internal leakage.

4. The terminal voltage is depressed, from 1.25V to about 1.2V per cell.

A single overheating event can result in the same outcome - whether by
overcharging or otherwise.

Reason ?

NiCd cells have a small amount of water in them - lose that and the cell is
stuffed.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

** The above is NOT common knowledge and is ONLY true of NiCd cells.



>> But why the high voltage?
>
> ** When on charge - point 1 applies.
> ** Cease charge the pack and the voltage drops almost immediately.
> ** V = I x R ..........
> ** Wot an idiot.
>
> You don't see it, do you? Of course not.


** There is nothing new or "odd" to see.


> The same thought crossed my mind. The question is... why should a cell's
> voltage -- which is supposedly determined by the battery's chemistry --
> essentially double (assuming only one cell is bad)?

** You never put that **fucking mad idea** forward before ??????

Not only do you over snip and change context at whim - now invent entirely
new stuff and pretend it is not new.

FYI fuckwit:

YOU claimed to have three 6V NiCd packs - means 5 cells in each.

So the normal, rest voltage is 1.25V x 5 = 6.25V

On charge, with good cells and at the recommended rate, voltage peaks to
about 1.45V then falls to about 1.35V per cell.

That means the pack will rise to 7.25V then fall to 6.75V as the cells get
warm.

If the cells are old and bad, the voltage will rise higher and may never
fall while on charge.

At rest the same faulty pack may well drop to a 1.1V per cell = 5.5V.

This correlates with your story, 100%.

Nothing odd, totally normal.

Shame the same is NOT true of steaming great fuckwits like YOU !!!!!!!!!!




... Phil






== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 5:01 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"


"Phil Allison" wrote in message news:bjbhirFli5mU1@mid.individual.net...

** The above is NOT common knowledge and is ONLY true of NiCd cells.

It's common knowledge to anyone with a technical background.


> That means the pack will rise to 7.25V then fall to 6.75V as the cells
> get warm.

But it went to something like 7.8V. The question still hasn't been answered.

The fact that the pack is labeled 6V doesn't mean it has five cells in it.

Probably the best thing to do is Dremel off the top of the bad pack, and see
what's going on.






== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 5:45 pm
From: "Phil Allison"



"William Sommerwanker"

>> Fine. Nothing new.
>
> ** All new to YOU, fuckhead.
>
> I've killed men for less than that.

** Another idiotic lie.

> I wasn't expecting you to repeat common knowledge about rechargeable
> batteries.

** And I didn't.

To your claim of "odd battery problem" - I replied:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You are describing the standard "old age" failure mode of most NiCds.

1. The internal resistance of some or all the cells in a pack rises - often
dramatically.

2. The energy capacity drops by a large factor.

3. The pack will not hold charge due to internal leakage.

4. The terminal voltage is depressed, from 1.25V to about 1.2V per cell.

A single overheating event can result in the same outcome - whether by
overcharging or otherwise.

Reason ?

NiCd cells have a small amount of water in them - lose that and the cell is
stuffed.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

** The above is NOT common knowledge and is ONLY true of NiCd cells.



>> But why the high voltage?
>
> ** When on charge - point 1 applies.
> ** Cease charge the pack and the voltage drops almost immediately.
> ** V = I x R ..........
> ** Wot an idiot.
>
> You don't see it, do you? Of course not.


** There is nothing new or "odd" to see.


> The same thought crossed my mind. The question is... why should a cell's
> voltage -- which is supposedly determined by the battery's chemistry --
> essentially double (assuming only one cell is bad)?

** You never put that **fucking mad idea** forward before ??????

Not only do you over snip and change context at whim - now invent entirely
new stuff and pretend it is not new.

FYI fuckwit:

YOU claimed to have three 6V NiCd packs - means 5 cells in each.

So the normal, rest voltage is 1.25V x 5 = 6.25V

On charge, with good cells and at the recommended rate, voltage peaks to
about 1.45V then falls to about 1.35V per cell.

That means the pack will rise to 7.25V then fall to 6.75V as the cells get
warm.

If the cells are old and bad, the voltage will rise higher and may never
fall while on charge.

At rest the same faulty pack may well drop to a 1.1V per cell = 5.5V.

This correlates with your story, 100%.

Nothing odd, totally normal.

Shame the same is NOT true of steaming great fuckwits like YOU !!!!!!!!!!




... Phil










==============================================================================
TOPIC: Favorite Cutters For Snipping DIP Leads?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/30d89f0c2d193f6d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 6:40 pm
From: Doug White


I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove it
from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the circuit
board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one at a time
rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all at once.

The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't really
fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The ones I
have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:

http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329

Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally poor
quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool vendors, I'd
rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.

Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?

Thanks!

Doug White




== 2 of 8 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 10 2014 8:20 pm
From: isw


In article <XnsA2B1DC8B4BF2Fgwhitealummitedu@69.16.186.7>,
Doug White <gwhite@alum.mit.edu> wrote:

> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove it
> from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the circuit
> board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one at a time
> rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all at once.
>
> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't really
> fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The ones I
> have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>
> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>
> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally poor
> quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool vendors, I'd
> rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>
> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?

I use one of those craft knives with the break-off blades.

Isaac




== 3 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 12:26 am
From: N_Cook


On 11/01/2014 02:40, Doug White wrote:
> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove it
> from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the circuit
> board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one at a time
> rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all at once.
>
> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't really
> fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The ones I
> have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>
> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>
> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally poor
> quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool vendors, I'd
> rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>
> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Doug White
>

0.5mm thick abrasive disc or cintride/"diamond" disc in a "Dremmel"




== 4 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 4:10 am
From: tuinkabouter


On 1/11/2014 3:40 AM, Doug White wrote:
> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove it
> from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the circuit
> board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one at a time
> rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all at once.
>
> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't really
> fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The ones I
> have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>
> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>
> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally poor
> quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool vendors, I'd
> rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>
> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?

Bit expensive:
http://uk.farnell.com/bernstein-werkzeugfabrik/3-675-15/cutter-top-oblique-conductive/dp/9727086





== 5 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 4:17 am
From: tuinkabouter


On 1/11/2014 1:10 PM, tuinkabouter wrote:
> On 1/11/2014 3:40 AM, Doug White wrote:
>> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove it
>> from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the circuit
>> board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one at a time
>> rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all at once.
>>
>> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't really
>> fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The ones I
>> have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>>
>> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>>
>> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally poor
>> quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool vendors, I'd
>> rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>>
>> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?
>
> Bit expensive:
> http://uk.farnell.com/bernstein-werkzeugfabrik/3-675-15/cutter-top-oblique-conductive/dp/9727086

See partnumber 3-674-15 too:
www.farnell.com/datasheets/1655808.pdf




== 6 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 7:57 am
From: Doug White


N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in news:laqv7h$v0t$1@dont-email.me:

> On 11/01/2014 02:40, Doug White wrote:
>> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove
it
>> from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the circuit
>> board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one at a time
>> rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all at once.
>>
>> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't
really
>> fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The ones I
>> have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>>
>> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>>
>> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally
poor
>> quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool vendors,
I'd
>> rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>>
>> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Doug White
>>
> 0.5mm thick abrasive disc or cintride/"diamond" disc in a "Dremmel"

Thus throwing small conductive bits all over the board. No thanks...

Doug White





== 7 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 8:01 am
From: Doug White


tuinkabouter <dachthetniet@net.invalid> wrote in
news:lard1b$vlb$1@dont-email.me:

> On 1/11/2014 3:40 AM, Doug White wrote:
>> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove
>> it from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the
>> circuit board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one
>> at a time rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all
>> at once.
>>
>> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't
>> really fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The
>> ones I have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>>
>> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>>
>> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally
>> poor quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool
>> vendors, I'd rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>>
>> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?
>
> Bit expensive:
> http://uk.farnell.com/bernstein-werkzeugfabrik/3-675-15/cutter-top-
oblique-conductive/dp/9727086

Actually, if you shop around, they can be had considerably cheaper than
the Erem cutters:

http://www.tme.eu/en/details/brn-3-675-15/cutting-pliers/bernstein/3-
675-15/

If I don't get any better suggestions, I'll try them out.

Thanks!

Doug White




== 8 of 8 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 8:06 am
From: Doug White


tuinkabouter <dachthetniet@net.invalid> wrote in
news:lardd4$1mm$1@dont-email.me:

> On 1/11/2014 1:10 PM, tuinkabouter wrote:
>> On 1/11/2014 3:40 AM, Doug White wrote:
>>> I have occasional need to cut the leads on a standard DIP to remove
>>> it from a PCB. If the chip is dead or not worth saving, and the
>>> circuit board is delicate, I'd rather cut the leads & pull them one
>>> at a time rather than risk damaging the board trying to yank it all
>>> at once.
>>>
>>> The catch is that my pointiest cutters are a bit broad, and won't
>>> really fit down between the leads far enough to get a good cut. The
>>> ones I have are Utica 582E angle tip cutters, similar to these:
>>>
>>> http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/erem-angled-tip-cutters/g/329
>>>
>>> Given the cost of a really good pair of cutters, and the generally
>>> poor quality of the pictures/descriptions supplied by most tool
>>> vendors, I'd rather not blow big bucks on them sight unseen.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a particular make & model they can recommend?
>>
>> Bit expensive:
>> http://uk.farnell.com/bernstein-werkzeugfabrik/3-675-15/cutter-top-
obl
>> ique-conductive/dp/9727086
>
> See partnumber 3-674-15 too:
> www.farnell.com/datasheets/1655808.pdf

Thanks! Actually, the 3-672-15's look even better. I don't need the
heavily angled tip, it's just what I currently have. In some
situations, it can cause issues with bumping into obstacles. Something
really skinny with less angle would allow me to cut more from straight
above, which is usually the only direction I'm guaranteed to have
access.

Doug White





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yamaha Stagepas 500W
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ffe9b12e2d51ee46?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 5:00 am
From: dave


On 01/10/2014 07:28 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> Just in case someone out there other than myself dares to take on these,
> and any ideas. All the previous times as far as the PAs are concerned
> just matter of replacing SMD fusible resitors and powerFETs. This time
> done that but unit goes into protect mode. With known good PA only or no
> PA in there, then no flashing green power LED = protect mode.
> I bench test these little 2 ounce, 250W, "digital" PAs as far as
> quiesence is concerned and with +/-30V supply rails , sits there happily
> with normal , for this minimal test, 0.7mA balanced current draw.
> Cold testing DVM-D fashion has shown up no difference to the known good
> PA SMDs.
> I suspect something in the protect monitoring part of the pa has gone
> wrong at the original failure but its a workup to make extenders etc to
> probe these amps in full live circuit. At least the schematics etc are
> out there for these amps.

Have you checked for oscillation?




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jan 11 2014 5:52 am
From: N_Cook


On 11/01/2014 13:00, dave wrote:
> On 01/10/2014 07:28 AM, N_Cook wrote:
>> Just in case someone out there other than myself dares to take on these,
>> and any ideas. All the previous times as far as the PAs are concerned
>> just matter of replacing SMD fusible resitors and powerFETs. This time
>> done that but unit goes into protect mode. With known good PA only or no
>> PA in there, then no flashing green power LED = protect mode.
>> I bench test these little 2 ounce, 250W, "digital" PAs as far as
>> quiesence is concerned and with +/-30V supply rails , sits there happily
>> with normal , for this minimal test, 0.7mA balanced current draw.
>> Cold testing DVM-D fashion has shown up no difference to the known good
>> PA SMDs.
>> I suspect something in the protect monitoring part of the pa has gone
>> wrong at the original failure but its a workup to make extenders etc to
>> probe these amps in full live circuit. At least the schematics etc are
>> out there for these amps.
>
> Have you checked for oscillation?

As distinct from bench testing without the clock signal input I suppose.
Will do that but as bench current drain is only .7mA looks as though
I'll have to defeat the ERR line from this bad amp and add some droppers
in its power lines. At the moment the little bad PA is unplugged and
powered from the bench ps. This amp , like the other ones of 150W rating
, when on +&-30V settle with the speaker output at about -1.5 to -1.7V
and both sets of gates , and D settle to near enough always the same
readings. Then properly in circuit with +&-48V and clock , but still no
speaker load they settle to 10mV DC or so.
With bad amp in hte unit and powered up and before it cuts out I will
monitor for oscillation. Unfortunately with triggering of this protect
you have to wait 5 minutes for a cap to discharge, I must locate that so
I can manually discharge it.
Changing the preset value on this one makes no difference to the -1.6V.
I may try a bench oscillator fed to the clock of this amp, unusual
exercise if nothing else





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