sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Unsolderable wire? - 14 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/846b59baa6a8b7e9?hl=en
* Need schematic for Gruindig GO-15z scope. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a8429eef64636c94?hl=en
* Anyone help me with component ID for X5DIJ-SX039C laptop (k501j mobo)? - 7
messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* SAE Mark 1b preamp repair - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/20c2927f65a1f4e4?hl=en
* Sony NW-S203F flash Walkman. - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26616a51a1acd6e5?hl=en
* Harmon Kardon MS-150 ... - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Unsolderable wire?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/846b59baa6a8b7e9?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 12:40 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Phil Hobbs wrote:
>
> I don't have TV at home, and there's no way I'd use F connectors for
> anything but entertainment.
That's your choice. I can't help that you are absolutely clueless
about the technology. There are millions of miles of Rg/6 with F
fittings used into the UHF range outdoors with a very low failure rate,
and lower leakage than some BNC connectors. If they were crap, they
wouldn't be allowed to use aircraft and commercial two way frequencies.
A couple bad connections in a cable system can shut down an airport, or
the local fire and PD.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 2 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 12:42 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
dave wrote:
>
> The easiest way to spot good headend cable was to try to bend it. It
> drapes, like mic cable; not stiff.
The easiest way was to look at the imprint: 'Belden headend cable'.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 3 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 12:43 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Kennedy wrote:
>
> On 20/01/2014 7:38 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> > "Tim Williams - Wanker & TROLL"
> >
> >
>
> Was I the only one to see this predictable response coming & get a
> giggle out of it?
Phil always advertises that he's a troll.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 4 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 12:43 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Kennedy wrote:
>
> On 20/01/2014 7:45 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
> >
> > "Kennedy = Kunt"
> >
> >
> > FOAD - you stinking autistic MORON
> >
>
> Settle down Phil, one day you're going to blow a gasket! :)
Why put it off? Who would mourn?
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 5 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 1:13 pm
From: Phil Hobbs
On 01/20/2014 12:49 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 11:10:46 -0500, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>
>> On 01/20/2014 08:46 AM, dave wrote:
>>> Use Snap-N-Seal type F-connectors. They are moisture proof and
>>> positively crimp correctly.
>
>> I don't have TV at home, and there's no way I'd use F connectors for
>> anything but entertainment.
>> Cheers
>> Phil Hobbs
>
> Ok, I'll bite. What's wrong with F-connectors? There are zillions
> installed on indoor and outdoor CATV installations with no failures or
> issues. Certainly there are connectors with better specifications,
> but for the intended purpose and cost ($0.30/ea), F-connectors are
> more than adequate. The only real problem I've found is the wide
> variety of cables claiming to be RG-6/u. Making a connector that will
> fit all these RG-6/u mutations is tricky, but T&B has done a decent
> job with their "red" SNS1P6U Snap-N-Seal connectors:
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/221344116756>
>
> So, what's wrong with F-connectors and what would you recommend the
> CATV industry use instead?
>
If the CATV industry likes them, well, I'm happy they're happy.
Instrument use is quite a different regime. F connectors use the centre
conductor of the coax as the contact, and are very susceptible to damage
with repeated mating cycles. The ones I've seen are also fairly far
from constant-impedance.
BNCs and SMAs for me.
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
== 6 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 1:18 pm
From: "Tim Williams"
"DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno" <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> wrote in message
news:ap5qd95f2cprv181vtan18uieifd9g55ob@4ax.com...
>>> "Tim Williams - Wanker & TROLL"
>>>
>>
>>Was I the only one to see this predictable response coming & get a
>>giggle out of it?
>
> T. W. == W & T
>
>
> Naaaaahhh!!!
>
> He has smarts.
Smarts? I'll have you know I've been called worse!
Tim (only an asshole on the internet)
--
Seven Transistor Labs
Electrical Engineering Consultation
Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com
== 7 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 3:41 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 16:13:00 -0500, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>On 01/20/2014 12:49 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 11:10:46 -0500, Phil Hobbs
>> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 01/20/2014 08:46 AM, dave wrote:
>>>> Use Snap-N-Seal type F-connectors. They are moisture proof and
>>>> positively crimp correctly.
>>
>>> I don't have TV at home, and there's no way I'd use F connectors for
>>> anything but entertainment.
>>> Cheers
>>> Phil Hobbs
>>
>> Ok, I'll bite. What's wrong with F-connectors? There are zillions
>> installed on indoor and outdoor CATV installations with no failures or
>> issues. Certainly there are connectors with better specifications,
>> but for the intended purpose and cost ($0.30/ea), F-connectors are
>> more than adequate. The only real problem I've found is the wide
>> variety of cables claiming to be RG-6/u. Making a connector that will
>> fit all these RG-6/u mutations is tricky, but T&B has done a decent
>> job with their "red" SNS1P6U Snap-N-Seal connectors:
>> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/221344116756>
>>
>> So, what's wrong with F-connectors and what would you recommend the
>> CATV industry use instead?
>If the CATV industry likes them, well, I'm happy they're happy.
The CATV industry is never happy. If it were happy, innovation would
cease and the status quo would become permanent.
>Instrument use is quite a different regime. F connectors use the centre
>conductor of the coax as the contact, and are very susceptible to damage
>with repeated mating cycles. The ones I've seen are also fairly far
>from constant-impedance.
I believe that I mumbled something about "for the intended purpose". I
don't think anyone uses F-connectors for precision test equipment.
They're not really good enough. Looking at the pile, most of my CATV
specific test equipment uses BNC connectors. However, that's not
because the F-connector is in some way electrically inferior. It's
because the F-connector receptacles were not designed to survive
repeated insertion/removal cycles. The few that have built in
F-connectors allow for easy replacement, such as my Wavetek SAM-1000
which uses a panel mounted F barrel adapter.
The F-connector is certainly not constant impedance. On a TDR, the
bump is rather obvious. Yet, some cable and connector combinations
are rated and tested to 4.5GHz:
<http://www.tselectronic.com/shop/product/1694A-Belden-4.5GHz-RG6-U-Precision-Video-Cable-for-Analog-and-Digital-Applications/1026>
The recommended connectors are T&B SNS1P6 or FSNS6U compression
F-connectors.
I partly agree with you about center conductor problems. I assume
that you're referring to the copper plated steel center conductor,
found in most cheap RG-6/u cables, which is not intended for repeated
insertion/extraction cycles. Still, the rating is 500
insertion/extraction cycles minimum. The copper will eventually
scrape off. However, solid copper center conductor RG-6/u (such as
Belden 1694A) works quite nicely, without any damage. I couldn't find
a spec for insertion/extraction cycles for 1694A.
>BNCs and SMAs for me.
Crimp or compression plugs, in quantities of 100 on eBay:
F-connector $0.30/ea
SMA male $0.70/ea
BNC male $1.00/ea
For test equipment, the price difference is not enough to justify
using the cheapest. For CATV, which consumes connectors by the
millions, every penny counts.
Thanks.
>Cheers
>Phil Hobbs
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
== 8 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 3:45 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 15:42:19 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> The easiest way was to look at the imprint: 'Belden headend cable'.
Which end is the head? (Sorry, I couldn't resist).
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
== 9 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 3:55 pm
From: Phil Hobbs
On 1/20/2014 6:41 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 16:13:00 -0500, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>
>> On 01/20/2014 12:49 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>> On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 11:10:46 -0500, Phil Hobbs
>>> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 01/20/2014 08:46 AM, dave wrote:
>>>>> Use Snap-N-Seal type F-connectors. They are moisture proof and
>>>>> positively crimp correctly.
>>>
>>>> I don't have TV at home, and there's no way I'd use F connectors for
>>>> anything but entertainment.
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Phil Hobbs
>>>
>>> Ok, I'll bite. What's wrong with F-connectors? There are zillions
>>> installed on indoor and outdoor CATV installations with no failures or
>>> issues. Certainly there are connectors with better specifications,
>>> but for the intended purpose and cost ($0.30/ea), F-connectors are
>>> more than adequate. The only real problem I've found is the wide
>>> variety of cables claiming to be RG-6/u. Making a connector that will
>>> fit all these RG-6/u mutations is tricky, but T&B has done a decent
>>> job with their "red" SNS1P6U Snap-N-Seal connectors:
>>> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/221344116756>
>>>
>>> So, what's wrong with F-connectors and what would you recommend the
>>> CATV industry use instead?
>
>> If the CATV industry likes them, well, I'm happy they're happy.
>
> The CATV industry is never happy. If it were happy, innovation would
> cease and the status quo would become permanent.
>
>> Instrument use is quite a different regime. F connectors use the centre
>> conductor of the coax as the contact, and are very susceptible to damage
>> with repeated mating cycles. The ones I've seen are also fairly far
>>from constant-impedance.
>
> I believe that I mumbled something about "for the intended purpose". I
> don't think anyone uses F-connectors for precision test equipment.
> They're not really good enough. Looking at the pile, most of my CATV
> specific test equipment uses BNC connectors. However, that's not
> because the F-connector is in some way electrically inferior. It's
> because the F-connector receptacles were not designed to survive
> repeated insertion/removal cycles. The few that have built in
> F-connectors allow for easy replacement, such as my Wavetek SAM-1000
> which uses a panel mounted F barrel adapter.
>
> The F-connector is certainly not constant impedance. On a TDR, the
> bump is rather obvious. Yet, some cable and connector combinations
> are rated and tested to 4.5GHz:
> <http://www.tselectronic.com/shop/product/1694A-Belden-4.5GHz-RG6-U-Precision-Video-Cable-for-Analog-and-Digital-Applications/1026>
> The recommended connectors are T&B SNS1P6 or FSNS6U compression
> F-connectors.
>
> I partly agree with you about center conductor problems. I assume
> that you're referring to the copper plated steel center conductor,
> found in most cheap RG-6/u cables, which is not intended for repeated
> insertion/extraction cycles. Still, the rating is 500
> insertion/extraction cycles minimum. The copper will eventually
> scrape off. However, solid copper center conductor RG-6/u (such as
> Belden 1694A) works quite nicely, without any damage. I couldn't find
> a spec for insertion/extraction cycles for 1694A.
>
>> BNCs and SMAs for me.
>
> Crimp or compression plugs, in quantities of 100 on eBay:
> F-connector $0.30/ea
> SMA male $0.70/ea
> BNC male $1.00/ea
> For test equipment, the price difference is not enough to justify
> using the cheapest. For CATV, which consumes connectors by the
> millions, every penny counts.
>
> Thanks.
>
>> Cheers
>> Phil Hobbs
>
Sure, horses for courses. I'm not telling them how to run their lives,
because I couldn't care less about their lives. ;) (Well, as
individuals, sure, but as for the industry, if CATV went away completely
tomorrow, it would suit me fine--provided only that they took their
tarts and talking heads with them.)
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
== 10 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 5:41 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann
On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 18:55:56 -0500, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>Sure, horses for courses. I'm not telling them how to run their lives,
>because I couldn't care less about their lives. ;) (Well, as
>individuals, sure, but as for the industry, if CATV went away completely
>tomorrow, it would suit me fine--provided only that they took their
>tarts and talking heads with them.)
>Cheers
>Phil Hobbs
I assure you that the selection of RF connector will have no effect on
CATV content quality. I like the tarts, but can do without the
talking heads.
For what little it's worth, I didn't own a TV for about 15 years.
Except for being somewhat culturally deprived, I didn't miss TV in the
slightest. However, I then picked up a contract to review some
technical videos and needed a TV and VCR to play them. I soon found
myself watching broadcast TV, buying DVD's, putting together a media
center, subscribing to DirecTV, Netflix, etc. Today, I find that I
can't sleep without the TV running. I'm now watching a 1931 Boris
Karloff movie as I type. I'm addicted.
Hint: Don't judge connectors by the content they carry.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
== 11 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 6:40 pm
From: Phil Hobbs
On 1/20/2014 8:41 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 18:55:56 -0500, Phil Hobbs
> <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
>
>> Sure, horses for courses. I'm not telling them how to run their lives,
>> because I couldn't care less about their lives. ;) (Well, as
>> individuals, sure, but as for the industry, if CATV went away completely
>> tomorrow, it would suit me fine--provided only that they took their
>> tarts and talking heads with them.)
>> Cheers
>> Phil Hobbs
>
> I assure you that the selection of RF connector will have no effect on
> CATV content quality. I like the tarts, but can do without the
> talking heads.
Nah, sufficiently crappy connectors could improve the content a lot. ;)
Cheers
Phil Hobbs
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
== 12 of 14 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 11:07 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
> On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 15:42:19 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
> <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > The easiest way was to look at the imprint: 'Belden headend cable'.
>
> Which end is the head? (Sorry, I couldn't resist).
If you have to ask, you aren't qualified for the job. :)
The entire system of amplifiers is marked as Forward or Reverse so
just follow the reverse path to the head end. Unless it's Fiber enhanced
CATV.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 13 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 4:51 am
From: dave
On 01/20/2014 12:42 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> dave wrote:
>>
>> The easiest way to spot good headend cable was to try to bend it. It
>> drapes, like mic cable; not stiff.
>
>
> The easiest way was to look at the imprint: 'Belden headend cable'.
>
>
It's easier to find in the dark if you feel for it. I knew a lot of CATV
people, including the Chief Head End Technician at Time Warner in
Houston; and we prized the supple stuff for personal use.
== 14 of 14 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 2:41 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
dave wrote:
>
> On 01/20/2014 12:42 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > dave wrote:
> >>
> >> The easiest way to spot good headend cable was to try to bend it. It
> >> drapes, like mic cable; not stiff.
> >
> >
> > The easiest way was to look at the imprint: 'Belden headend cable'.
> >
> >
>
> It's easier to find in the dark if you feel for it. I knew a lot of CATV
> people, including the Chief Head End Technician at Time Warner in
> Houston; and we prized the supple stuff for personal use.
I had a full 1000' spool stolen from me.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need schematic for Gruindig GO-15z scope.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a8429eef64636c94?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Jan 20 2014 1:31 pm
From: YD
On Mon, 20 Jan 2014 18:58:58 +0100, sipping burgundy and listening to
Mahler,
Reinhard Zwirner <reinhard.zwirner@t-online.de> wrote:
>Reinhard Zwirner schrieb:
>> YD schrieb:
>>> Hi,
>>>
>>> I got it from a fleashop, it worked for some time and then stopped. HT
>>> and PSU seem to be OK so I think it should be repairable.
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> You've got e-mail (if your address is a working address).
>
>Obviously not working <shrug>.
>
>Bye
>
>Reinhard
Did you remove the antispam? If not, try again: snark@myself.com.
TIA
- YD.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Anyone help me with component ID for X5DIJ-SX039C laptop (k501j mobo)?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 7:24 am
From: Mike Tomlinson
In article <v22pd9hm1r5br9004o4o22dg4052p3tcdm@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
><http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/asus-k501j.jpg>
>The "hole" in the burnt out component is characteristic of applying
>reverse polarity to an active device such as a diode. I would guess
>that the diode exploded, blowing the top off the epoxy package.
The 8-pin IC next to it also looks burnt.
To the OP: forget it, this is not economically repairable. Buy your
daughter a new machine and use the correct charger in future.
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 7:39 am
From: dave
On 01/21/2014 07:24 AM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
> In article <v22pd9hm1r5br9004o4o22dg4052p3tcdm@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
> <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
>
>> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/asus-k501j.jpg>
>> The "hole" in the burnt out component is characteristic of applying
>> reverse polarity to an active device such as a diode. I would guess
>> that the diode exploded, blowing the top off the epoxy package.
>
> The 8-pin IC next to it also looks burnt.
>
> To the OP: forget it, this is not economically repairable. Buy your
> daughter a new machine and use the correct charger in future.
>
A diode is not an active device
== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 8:00 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
> A diode is not an active device
It was pretty active there for a second.
== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 8:37 am
From: Mike Tomlinson
In article <b1bd46bc-bcf2-4c9f-9568-38ef4a0e705d@googlegroups.com>,
jurb6006@gmail.com writes
>> A diode is not an active device
>
>It was pretty active there for a second.
Heh. Probably sacrificed itself to protect the fuse.
--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 3:04 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
dave wrote:
>
> On 01/21/2014 07:24 AM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
> > In article <v22pd9hm1r5br9004o4o22dg4052p3tcdm@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
> > <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
> >
> >> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/asus-k501j.jpg>
> >> The "hole" in the burnt out component is characteristic of applying
> >> reverse polarity to an active device such as a diode. I would guess
> >> that the diode exploded, blowing the top off the epoxy package.
> >
> > The 8-pin IC next to it also looks burnt.
> >
> > To the OP: forget it, this is not economically repairable. Buy your
> > daughter a new machine and use the correct charger in future.
> >
>
> A diode is not an active device.
Then explain the Gunn Diode. DC in, RF out. How about LEDs? DC in,
Photons out.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 22 2014 5:29 am
From: dave
On 01/21/2014 03:04 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> dave wrote:
>>
>> On 01/21/2014 07:24 AM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
>>> In article <v22pd9hm1r5br9004o4o22dg4052p3tcdm@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
>>> <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
>>>
>>>> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/asus-k501j.jpg>
>>>> The "hole" in the burnt out component is characteristic of applying
>>>> reverse polarity to an active device such as a diode. I would guess
>>>> that the diode exploded, blowing the top off the epoxy package.
>>>
>>> The 8-pin IC next to it also looks burnt.
>>>
>>> To the OP: forget it, this is not economically repairable. Buy your
>>> daughter a new machine and use the correct charger in future.
>>>
>>
>> A diode is not an active device.
>
>
> Then explain the Gunn Diode. DC in, RF out. How about LEDs? DC in,
> Photons out.
>
>
An active device is any type of circuit component with the ability to
electrically control electron flow (electricity controlling
electricity). In order for a circuit to be properly called electronic,
it must contain at least one active device. Components incapable of
controlling current by means of another electrical signal are called
passive devices. Resistors, capacitors, inductors, transformers, and
even diodes are all considered passive devices.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_1/2.html
== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 22 2014 8:39 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
>"Then explain the Gunn Diode. DC in, RF out.
Also the tunnel diode.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: SAE Mark 1b preamp repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/20c2927f65a1f4e4?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 10:48 am
From: gmbaskar@gmail.com
Hi all
I got SAE Mark 1B preamp thinking it will work. It powers up and I don't see any output working except scope out . Tape monitor is set to OUT. Unit is in very good cosmetic shape. Service manual days that if both channels don't work it most possibly be power supply issue. I want to get your sage advice and valuable input in fixing and restoring this wonderful unit
Thanks and regards
Baski
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Jan 21 2014 11:51 am
From: N_Cook
On 21/01/2014 18:48, gmbaskar@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi all
> I got SAE Mark 1B preamp thinking it will work. It powers up and I don't see any output working except scope out . Tape monitor is set to OUT. Unit is in very good cosmetic shape. Service manual days that if both channels don't work it most possibly be power supply issue. I want to get your sage advice and valuable input in fixing and restoring this wonderful unit
> Thanks and regards
> Baski
>
A bridging plug at power-amp-in required?
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TOPIC: Sony NW-S203F flash Walkman.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26616a51a1acd6e5?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 22 2014 9:02 am
From: "Ian Field"
Someone threw this item out with various other electrical items - it did
work until I tried to put music of my choosing onto it.
So far I've found an app on one of the Sony websites (about 58Mb) that
requires online registration - unfortunately the website that links to
doesn't respond.
I did find a Sony MP3 manager - that's how I trashed the flash folders/song
database.
After a lot of searching I found a Sony Walkman app on Sourceforge, but it
unpacks a .jar file - not much help on my Win machine.
Anyone know where to find flash Walkman utils to reformat it and fill it
with songs?
Thanks for any help.
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TOPIC: Harmon Kardon MS-150 ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94492aa4601f463c?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Jan 22 2014 10:11 am
From: "Arfa Daily"
Anyone on here had the misfortune to have work on one of these POS ? If so,
how do you get into it ? It's got me beat. Front grille comes off, and a
number of obvious screws then exposed. On the bottom, below the CD drive, is
a plastic 'plate screwed between the front and rear case halves. Remove
that, and the CD drive comes with it. That can all be unplugged and removed.
That then exposes a PCB, again screwed between the front and rear halves.
Four screws out of that, and the board is then adrift, but not going
anywhere, as it is still apparently fixed to the case rear half by a screw
into the phono connector block, that's behind a thick plastic stuck-in trim
panel. With all that lot out, the front case-half appears to be largely
adrift from the rear, except right around the middle, where it 'feels' as
though there's another screw lurking, but nothing visible from any angle,
front or rear.
I've even taken the speakers out to make sure that there are no other screws
behind them.
So I'm stuck now. Anyone know the secret ... ? d:-\
Arfa
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