sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en
sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com
Today's topics:
* Sony NW-S203F flash Walkman. - 4 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26616a51a1acd6e5?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 6 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* Spec USB connectors - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/347f16c3a1cdae00?hl=en
* SAE Mark 1b preamp repair - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/20c2927f65a1f4e4?hl=en
* Anyone help me with component ID for X5DIJ-SX039C laptop (k501jmobo)? - 3
messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
* $&*(*%!!! - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/861b6ebf9e4979c6?hl=en
* Any PC Hardware Gurus In Here ? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e4190ca05fbbb86?hl=en
* Italian RCF Flexa PS6320 modular amp system, 2006 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/44a8e5a3eef747c6?hl=en
* 1/4" phone jack replacement for Behringer 215 speaker. - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0fd5e32c8baa1611?hl=en
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony NW-S203F flash Walkman.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26616a51a1acd6e5?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 10:04 am
From: "Ian Field"
"Genesys" <wolstech@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d8d2e80d-824f-4e19-88f7-b6bc4e89f747@googlegroups.com...
> On Thursday, January 23, 2014 12:15:49 AM UTC-5, Genesys wrote:
>
>>
>> The Java redistributable is here:
>> http://download.oracle.com/otn-pub/java/jdk/7u51-b13/jre-7u51-windows-i586.exe
>>
>
> Oops. Apparently I can't link directly. This is the website:
> http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/jre7-downloads-1880261.html
> "Windows x86 Offline" package is the normal redist.
Thanks - I grabbed the Linux one as well just incase I decide to give that a
go.
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 10:04 am
From: "Ian Field"
"Genesys" <wolstech@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:d8d2e80d-824f-4e19-88f7-b6bc4e89f747@googlegroups.com...
> On Thursday, January 23, 2014 12:15:49 AM UTC-5, Genesys wrote:
>
>>
>> The Java redistributable is here:
>> http://download.oracle.com/otn-pub/java/jdk/7u51-b13/jre-7u51-windows-i586.exe
>>
>
> Oops. Apparently I can't link directly. This is the website:
> http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/jre7-downloads-1880261.html
> "Windows x86 Offline" package is the normal redist.
Thanks - I grabbed the Linux one as well just incase I decide to give that a
go.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 9:13 am
From: "Ian Field"
"Genesys" <wolstech@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a1578ae8-13c4-4f25-bf9e-ed941e329b44@googlegroups.com...
> On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 3:22:53 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
>> "Leif Neland" wrote in message
>>
>> news:mn.b4a77de156438315.130671@neland.dk...
>>
>> > Ian Field kom med følgende:
>>
>> >
>>
>> >> After a lot of searching I found a Sony Walkman app on Sourceforge,
>> >> but
>>
>> >> it unpacks a .jar file - not much help on my Win machine.
>>
>> >>
>>
>> > A .jar is supposed to run by java.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks - I don't think I have Java on the XP machine that app is on, and
>> it
>>
>> has no internet.
>>
>>
>>
>> A search for Java redistributable didn't help much!
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas?
>
> The Java redistributable is here:
> http://download.oracle.com/otn-pub/java/jdk/7u51-b13/jre-7u51-windows-i586.exe
>
> As for the walkman, try the following:
>
> If you need to format its memory, do so by following these directions:
> https://docs.sony.com/release/NWS20xF_flyer.pdf
>
> The app you need to transfer music is SonicStage, which is discontinued.
> An unofficial user-supported version is at
> http://forums.sonyinsider.com/files/file/95-sonicstage-43-ultimate-edition/
> Download it without registering at
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/vflb76id7exzb88/SS43_ULTIMATE.exe
That sorted it - thanks.
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 9:13 am
From: "Ian Field"
"Genesys" <wolstech@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:a1578ae8-13c4-4f25-bf9e-ed941e329b44@googlegroups.com...
> On Wednesday, January 22, 2014 3:22:53 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
>> "Leif Neland" wrote in message
>>
>> news:mn.b4a77de156438315.130671@neland.dk...
>>
>> > Ian Field kom med følgende:
>>
>> >
>>
>> >> After a lot of searching I found a Sony Walkman app on Sourceforge,
>> >> but
>>
>> >> it unpacks a .jar file - not much help on my Win machine.
>>
>> >>
>>
>> > A .jar is supposed to run by java.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks - I don't think I have Java on the XP machine that app is on, and
>> it
>>
>> has no internet.
>>
>>
>>
>> A search for Java redistributable didn't help much!
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas?
>
> The Java redistributable is here:
> http://download.oracle.com/otn-pub/java/jdk/7u51-b13/jre-7u51-windows-i586.exe
>
> As for the walkman, try the following:
>
> If you need to format its memory, do so by following these directions:
> https://docs.sony.com/release/NWS20xF_flyer.pdf
>
> The app you need to transfer music is SonicStage, which is discontinued.
> An unofficial user-supported version is at
> http://forums.sonyinsider.com/files/file/95-sonicstage-43-ultimate-edition/
> Download it without registering at
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/vflb76id7exzb88/SS43_ULTIMATE.exe
That sorted it - thanks.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 12:19 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com
I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
it is male?
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 3:22 pm
From: Cydrome Leader
vjp2.at@at.biostrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> it is male?
correct.
== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 5:58 pm
From: whit3rd
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 12:19:27 PM UTC-8, vjp...@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
>
> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
>
> it is male?
yes
... and the connector is Amphenol micro-ribbon type (Centronix is a
defunct printer manufacturer that used one of the variants).
== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 6:09 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>
> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
> it is male?
Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 8:41 pm
From: gregz
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
> vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>>
>> I'm assuming the part that looks like a mouth with teeth (contacts) inwards
>> is the female and the part that looks like a tongue with studs (contacts) on
>> it is male?
>
>
> Centronics. Centronics was a manufacturer of mainframe printers who
> decided to use a standardized interface on their products, and it spread
> across the industry over time. The original connectors were AMP Blue
> Ribbon series 36 contact. Now part of TE Connectivity.
We had quite a party trying to fix a centronics printer that was part of a
minicomputer system. Late 70's design. Must of taken 3-4 rotating shifts
of work.
Don't remember the details, but a replacement was not at hand.
Greg
== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 12:14 am
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com
Thanks to all
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Spec USB connectors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/347f16c3a1cdae00?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 12:23 pm
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com
The unit had a plug that looks kinda like a house (like a pentagon with the
top lopped off) and a white square thing in the center not quite sticking
out.
Am I right that it is a USB B female and I need a USB B male cable?
I want to conntect this with a centronix (ie that has the contacts like studs
on a toungue) on the unit
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 6:17 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
>
> The unit had a plug that looks kinda like a house (like a pentagon with the
> top lopped off) and a white square thing in the center not quite sticking
> out.
>
> Am I right that it is a USB B female and I need a USB B male cable?
>
> I want to conntect this with a centronix (ie that has the contacts like studs
> on a toungue) on the unit
How are you going to connect the two? USB is high speed serial while
Centronics is parallel, with handshaking. You can buy a ready made
interface for a couple dollars:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231130780097
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 12:15 am
From: vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com
Yes, that's what I was planning.. but I wanted to know how to spec the USB
part. It isn't like the stuff on a flash drive. It's on the back of a
printer.
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 1:26 am
From: Adrian C
On 24/01/2014 08:15, vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:
> Yes, that's what I was planning.. but I wanted to know how to spec the USB
> part. It isn't like the stuff on a flash drive. It's on the back of a
> printer.
What color is the unit? Is it aligned vertically, at an angle or
horizontal? What's the relative humidity? Does the serial number end in Z?
--
Adrian C
==============================================================================
TOPIC: SAE Mark 1b preamp repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/20c2927f65a1f4e4?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 2:32 pm
From: "David Farber"
"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:lbmj42$lps$1@dont-email.me...
> On 21/01/2014 18:48, gmbaskar@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi all
>> I got SAE Mark 1B preamp thinking it will work. It powers up and I
>> don't see any output working except scope out . Tape monitor is set to
>> OUT. Unit is in very good cosmetic shape. Service manual days that if
>> both channels don't work it most possibly be power supply issue. I want
>> to get your sage advice and valuable input in fixing and restoring this
>> wonderful unit
>> Thanks and regards
>> Baski
>>
>
> A bridging plug at power-amp-in required?
My schematic says that there is a 45 volt output from the emitter of Q17 in
the power supply. That feeds the left and right channel line level
amplifier. The emitter of Q10 and Q60 should show 45 volts. Then there is a
20 volts supply going to the eq filter board. The eq in/out switch is where
the 20 volts enters the circuit there. If you have signal at the scope
output, from there the signal goes to the discrete gain control, then to the
balance control, then to the amp, then to output jacks.
Q9-Q16 are the amp transistors for channel A. Q59-Q64 are the amp
transistors for channel B. Does the pc board show reference numbers?
Good luck.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Anyone help me with component ID for X5DIJ-SX039C laptop (k501jmobo)?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58fd5bf0893d5f4a?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 6:05 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"
dave wrote:
>
> On 01/23/2014 06:45 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >
> > dave wrote:
> >>
> >> On 01/21/2014 03:04 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
> >>>
> >>> dave wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> On 01/21/2014 07:24 AM, Mike Tomlinson wrote:
> >>>>> In article <v22pd9hm1r5br9004o4o22dg4052p3tcdm@4ax.com>, Jeff Liebermann
> >>>>> <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/asus-k501j.jpg>
> >>>>>> The "hole" in the burnt out component is characteristic of applying
> >>>>>> reverse polarity to an active device such as a diode. I would guess
> >>>>>> that the diode exploded, blowing the top off the epoxy package.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The 8-pin IC next to it also looks burnt.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> To the OP: forget it, this is not economically repairable. Buy your
> >>>>> daughter a new machine and use the correct charger in future.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> A diode is not an active device.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Then explain the Gunn Diode. DC in, RF out. How about LEDs? DC in,
> >>> Photons out.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >> An active device is any type of circuit component with the ability to
> >> electrically control electron flow (electricity controlling
> >> electricity). In order for a circuit to be properly called electronic,
> >> it must contain at least one active device. Components incapable of
> >> controlling current by means of another electrical signal are called
> >> passive devices. Resistors, capacitors, inductors, transformers, and
> >> even diodes are all considered passive devices.
> >>
> >> http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_1/2.html
> >
> >
> > How does the Gunn diode oscillate without gain? How does it have
> > gain, if it isn't an active component?
> >
> >
> It is not a switch or a valve.
It's a solid state diode that oscillates. DC in, and ~10 GHZ out.
Search on Gunnplexer. You see them on automatic doors in almost every
store. A microwave mixer diode takes a sample from the Gunn diode and
compares it to any reflected signals. This results in a low frequency
signal that is detected, amplified and signals the door to open. How can
a passive diode do that?
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 5:09 am
From: dave
On 01/23/2014 06:05 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> dave wrote:
>>
>> On 01/23/2014 06:45 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>>
>> It is not a switch or a valve.
>
>
> It's a solid state diode that oscillates. DC in, and ~10 GHZ out.
> Search on Gunnplexer. You see them on automatic doors in almost every
> store. A microwave mixer diode takes a sample from the Gunn diode and
> compares it to any reflected signals. This results in a low frequency
> signal that is detected, amplified and signals the door to open. How can
> a passive diode do that?
>
Like I said. You can hit a piece of quartz with a hammer and it will
oscillate; that doesn't mean it's considered and active device. An
active device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another. As
in amplify or switch. Thermionic valve, transistor, SCR, Triac is what
we are going for.
== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 7:36 am
From: Michael Black
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014, dave wrote:
> On 01/23/2014 06:05 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>>
>> dave wrote:
>>>
>>> On 01/23/2014 06:45 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
>>>>
>>> It is not a switch or a valve.
>>
>>
>> It's a solid state diode that oscillates. DC in, and ~10 GHZ out.
>> Search on Gunnplexer. You see them on automatic doors in almost every
>> store. A microwave mixer diode takes a sample from the Gunn diode and
>> compares it to any reflected signals. This results in a low frequency
>> signal that is detected, amplified and signals the door to open. How can
>> a passive diode do that?
>>
>
> Like I said. You can hit a piece of quartz with a hammer and it will
> oscillate; that doesn't mean it's considered and active device. An active
> device uses one signal [current, voltage] to control another. As in amplify
> or switch. Thermionic valve, transistor, SCR, Triac is what we are going for.
>
>
I can't keep track of this argument.
But, that piece of quartz, the output will start decaying in volume almost
immediately. It requires an active device to keep that going.
Michael
==============================================================================
TOPIC: $&*(*%!!!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/861b6ebf9e4979c6?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 7:05 pm
From: "Shaun"
"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:lbj8u2$sdh$1@dont-email.me...
I'd been listening to a Sony SRF-80W (the original FM Walkman) while on the
treadmill. Several weeks ago it developed loud post-volume-control blasting
noises, so I went back to my iRiver.
Two electrolytics were the likely culprits. Yesterday I finally got around
to
pulling out the 'scope, to confirm the diagnosis.
Yup. You guessed it.
The blasting was gone. So was the stereo. I adjusted the PLL lock pot (which
I'd done on several samples of this unit, including this one) -- and it
refused to lock. (This is not a critical adjustment. It can easily be done
"by
ear".)
Isn't it fun to own classic, high-quality products that stop working -- and
there's no straightforward way to fix them?
Maybe when the weather warms up, it'll start working again. (Nah...)
"We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions."
-- Edwin Land
I would suggest some Percussive Maintenance; drop it on the floor from about
5 feet up. If it still doesn't work, nothing ventured, nothing gained!
;-))
Shaun
== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 8:34 pm
From: gregz
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
> I'd been listening to a Sony SRF-80W (the original FM Walkman) while on
> the treadmill. Several weeks ago it developed loud post-volume-control
> blasting noises, so I went back to my iRiver.
>
> Two electrolytics were the likely culprits. Yesterday I finally got
> around to pulling out the 'scope, to confirm the diagnosis.
>
> Yup. You guessed it.
>
> The blasting was gone. So was the stereo. I adjusted the PLL lock pot
> (which I'd done on several samples of this unit, including this one) --
> and it refused to lock. (This is not a critical adjustment. It can easily
> be done "by ear".)
>
> Isn't it fun to own classic, high-quality products that stop working --
> and there's no straightforward way to fix them?
>
> Maybe when the weather warms up, it'll start working again. (Nah...)
>
>
> "We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right questions."
> -- Edwin Land
I really need to look at my treadmill. Been figuring something in power
supply. It will keep shutting down while in use. I keep thinking caps.
Greg
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Any PC Hardware Gurus In Here ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e4190ca05fbbb86?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Jan 23 2014 10:11 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com
Got this PC, no boot, no nothing. Light comes on and the fans run, that's it.
Originally it did that and I went through the rigamaroll and got to the point I thought it was bad RAM. It originally had 4GB and once I removed it all and the battery, then it beeped and started running when I put 2GB back in, it ran some, but failed a few times so I took out that 2GB and put the other 2GB in, and then it booted reliably all the time.
It sat for a while after I reloaded and registered Windows, got all the cute stuff in there, Firefox, the Flasplayer(s), AVG and all that. I decided to off it and thought I had a buyer, unplugged it and packed it up. Well nothing happened so I hooked it back up and I got no boot anymore.
Right now I am just wondering if there is anythong I should check before parting it out. I'll get my money back doing that but a working machine is still better. Also, I guess I can assume the RAM I took out is good ? I figure I'll sell it because it sdoesn't fit anything I have.
This is a Dell Inspiron 560 with an E5700 3.0Ghz processor. I figure the processor is good because it still beeps if all the RAM is taken out. I would almost thing maybe a graphic problem but there is no HD activity except for it's quick little noise when first powered on.
This supposedly all great 6 bit Dell has an elcheapo ECS motherboard in it. They want too much for a replacement and the OS is OEM, and I simply am not paying $65 for that motherboard ! Twenty or thirty I would pay to avoid the hassle, but not $65.
It was dead when it came to me so I don't have alot in it. The processor and RAM csn bring back some of the money and the HD and DVD burner can be used in my other PC. But a working machine is still better...
Any ideas before this thing gets boned ?
== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 12:25 am
From: mike
On 1/23/2014 10:11 PM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> Got this PC, no boot, no nothing. Light comes on and the fans run, that's it.
>
> Originally it did that and I went through the rigamaroll and got to the point I thought it was bad RAM. It originally had 4GB and once I removed it all and the battery, then it beeped and started running when I put 2GB back in, it ran some, but failed a few times so I took out that 2GB and put the other 2GB in, and then it booted reliably all the time.
>
> It sat for a while after I reloaded and registered Windows, got all the cute stuff in there, Firefox, the Flasplayer(s), AVG and all that. I decided to off it and thought I had a buyer, unplugged it and packed it up. Well nothing happened so I hooked it back up and I got no boot anymore.
>
> Right now I am just wondering if there is anythong I should check before parting it out. I'll get my money back doing that but a working machine is still better. Also, I guess I can assume the RAM I took out is good ? I figure I'll sell it because it sdoesn't fit anything I have.
>
> This is a Dell Inspiron 560 with an E5700 3.0Ghz processor. I figure the processor is good because it still beeps if all the RAM is taken out. I would almost thing maybe a graphic problem but there is no HD activity except for it's quick little noise when first powered on.
>
> This supposedly all great 6 bit Dell has an elcheapo ECS motherboard in it. They want too much for a replacement and the OS is OEM, and I simply am not paying $65 for that motherboard ! Twenty or thirty I would pay to avoid the hassle, but not $65.
>
> It was dead when it came to me so I don't have alot in it. The processor and RAM csn bring back some of the money and the HD and DVD burner can be used in my other PC. But a working machine is still better...
>
> Any ideas before this thing gets boned ?
>
YOu seem to have made a lot of wild assumptions based on little relevant
info.
I see nothing to confirm that ANY of it is good.
What's the cmos battery voltage?
How much noise/ripple on every one of the power supplies?
12/5/3.3/1.something
== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 12:59 am
From: stratus46@yahoo.com
On Thursday, January 23, 2014 10:11:18 PM UTC-8, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:
> Got this PC, no boot, no nothing. Light comes on and the fans run, that's it.
>
>
>
> Originally it did that and I went through the rigamaroll and got to the point I thought it was bad RAM. It originally had 4GB and once I removed it all and the battery, then it beeped and started running when I put 2GB back in, it ran some, but failed a few times so I took out that 2GB and put the other 2GB in, and then it booted reliably all the time.
>
>
>
> It sat for a while after I reloaded and registered Windows, got all the cute stuff in there, Firefox, the Flasplayer(s), AVG and all that. I decided to off it and thought I had a buyer, unplugged it and packed it up. Well nothing happened so I hooked it back up and I got no boot anymore.
>
>
>
> Right now I am just wondering if there is anythong I should check before parting it out. I'll get my money back doing that but a working machine is still better. Also, I guess I can assume the RAM I took out is good ? I figure I'll sell it because it sdoesn't fit anything I have.
>
>
>
> This is a Dell Inspiron 560 with an E5700 3.0Ghz processor. I figure the processor is good because it still beeps if all the RAM is taken out. I would almost thing maybe a graphic problem but there is no HD activity except for it's quick little noise when first powered on.
>
>
>
> This supposedly all great 6 bit Dell has an elcheapo ECS motherboard in it. They want too much for a replacement and the OS is OEM, and I simply am not paying $65 for that motherboard ! Twenty or thirty I would pay to avoid the hassle, but not $65.
>
>
>
> It was dead when it came to me so I don't have alot in it. The processor and RAM csn bring back some of the money and the HD and DVD burner can be used in my other PC. But a working machine is still better...
>
>
>
> Any ideas before this thing gets boned ?
I've resurrected several machines by replacing bad capacitors.
G²
== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 4:42 am
From: Ken
jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> Got this PC, no boot, no nothing. Light comes on and the fans run,
> that's it.
>
> Originally it did that and I went through the rigamaroll and got to
> the point I thought it was bad RAM. It originally had 4GB and once I
> removed it all and the battery, then it beeped and started running
> when I put 2GB back in, it ran some, but failed a few times so I took
> out that 2GB and put the other 2GB in, and then it booted reliably
> all the time.
>
> It sat for a while after I reloaded and registered Windows, got all
> the cute stuff in there, Firefox, the Flasplayer(s), AVG and all
> that. I decided to off it and thought I had a buyer, unplugged it and
> packed it up. Well nothing happened so I hooked it back up and I got
> no boot anymore.
>
> Right now I am just wondering if there is anythong I should check
> before parting it out. I'll get my money back doing that but a
> working machine is still better. Also, I guess I can assume the RAM I
> took out is good ? I figure I'll sell it because it sdoesn't fit
> anything I have.
>
> This is a Dell Inspiron 560 with an E5700 3.0Ghz processor. I figure
> the processor is good because it still beeps if all the RAM is taken
> out. I would almost thing maybe a graphic problem but there is no HD
> activity except for it's quick little noise when first powered on.
>
> This supposedly all great 6 bit Dell has an elcheapo ECS motherboard
> in it. They want too much for a replacement and the OS is OEM, and I
> simply am not paying $65 for that motherboard ! Twenty or thirty I
> would pay to avoid the hassle, but not $65.
>
> It was dead when it came to me so I don't have alot in it. The
> processor and RAM csn bring back some of the money and the HD and DVD
> burner can be used in my other PC. But a working machine is still
> better...
>
> Any ideas before this thing gets boned ?
>
A computer that sits unused for a long time can do exactly what you
describe.
As the others have suggested, you should check the voltage on the CMOS
battery, as some computers will not boot if it is too low. The fact
that the RAM seemed to solve the boot problem once, could mean bad RAM,
but it is more likely to be a bad connection in the RAM sockets. Clean
the RAM contacts with alcohol to eliminate this possibility. Also, you
could have a weak power supply. If the power comes up too slow the
computer will shut down and sometimes work like you describe. I would
try a different PS to see if it solves your problem.
Your problem could be very simple, but you must establish what is good
and what is suspect. Start with the battery, clean the RAM, and try
another PS. Rarely is the processor or the MB bad. When the MB is bad,
you can often see the caps bulging like was suggested.
==============================================================================
TOPIC: Italian RCF Flexa PS6320 modular amp system, 2006
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/44a8e5a3eef747c6?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 12:13 am
From: N_Cook
All the chippery, I've found datasheets for, so maybe resolvable without
schematic. What I thought was a uC (with buried FW of course) is a
crystal controlled second SMPS controller for the main ps, and control
logic is hardwired as CMOS 4000 and opamps
==============================================================================
TOPIC: 1/4" phone jack replacement for Behringer 215 speaker.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0fd5e32c8baa1611?hl=en
==============================================================================
== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jan 24 2014 6:01 am
From: Klay Anderson
On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:35:06 AM UTC-7, David Farber wrote:
> David Farber wrote:
> I received the new jacks and they were the correct ones. The speaker works
> fine now. I did notice one strange thing about the midrange driver. When I
> went to push the connectors onto the terminal block, the driver started to
> rotate in its mount. I didn't see any mounting screws that would hold it
> securely in place. This can't be normal can it?
>
In my experience with Behringer, having anything of theirs operate correctly for an expected period of time is abnormal. I am not surprised they sent you the wrong part, I am surprised you apparently spoke with a live human on-shore about it.
Yours truly,
Mr. Klay Anderson, D.A.,Q.B.E.
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