sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Truth brand electrolytic capacitors - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
* Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615 - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
* Fuse for motor protection? - 3 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
* 3.5mm stereo headphone socket that isn't. - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28320987875a2efc?hl=en
* Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters than
cellphones? - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
* Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005 - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
* A Brief Introduction to Islam - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d4e34bf9bab000?hl=en
* Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993 - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
* Hickock CRO-5000a - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Truth brand electrolytic capacitors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/024736b296c3838f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:09 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


Before the CURRENT plague. Those look like what was in Mitsubishi TVs.

Those babies leaked conductive goop all over the board, yet were not electrically leaky themselves. Go figure.




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:56 pm
From: Trevor Wilson


On 18/02/2014 6:13 PM, John Robertson wrote:
> On 02/17/2014 11:53 AM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
>> On 17/02/2014 1:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>> <http://wtfmoogle.com/?p=3585>
>>> Now, there is something I haven't seen before. Electrolytics that
>>> bulge and leak goo without any applied voltage. Probably useful for
>>> ultra-short product warranties.
>>>
>>
>> **Last year I ordered a couple of hundred caps from my local supplier. I
>> commenced using the caps. Around 10% showed signs of leakage within a
>> short time. All before I installed them into products. I recalled the
>> products they were installed in, and sent the whole lot back to the
>> supplier for a refund. Some of the caps I had installed were showing
>> signs of distress. A hollow act, since the cost of the caps was
>> insignificant compared to the cost of re-repairing the products they
>> were installed in. I have setttled on a new, more reliable supplier.
>>
>
> We tend to only use Panasonic caps from Digi-Key, Mouser, etc. No
> problems with these! The cheap ones only lead to callbacks.
>
> John :-#(#
>

**Yup. That is the approach I've used for the last couple of years.
Panasonic caps = no call-backs. Sourced from Element 14.

--
Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sony Fm-Am receiver, Str-D615
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/603b7da6bc83fd04?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:12 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine simply burnt out

Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !


Would YOU wait 14 years to get a junkass Sony reciever fixed ?

BTW, where is Jerry ? In fact where are all the people who usaed to post here ?




== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:38 am
From: Michael Black


On Wed, 19 Feb 2014, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:

> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord
>> try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing
>> lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only
>> because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine
>> simply burnt out
>
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !
>
The guy didn't even quote what he was replying to, and didn't even format
things properly, so it looked like a first post in a thread rather than a
reply to one. Look inside, and it barely was readable.

>
> Would YOU wait 14 years to get a junkass Sony reciever fixed ?
>
But he didnt' really reply to be helfpul, he replied because he's looking
for a junker. I doubt he realized the message was old, but I suspect
wishful thinking is why he replied, hoping to get that front panel he
needs (or I think that's what he's asking).

It boggles my mind that people think there's value in replying to old
messages, when they aren't even in the right place. If they want
something, there are venues for buying and selling, and which see more
traffic than we get here. There's that new thing, ebay, that seems to
be getting a lot of attention, and is more likely to produce the needed
scrap unit (or just the front panel) than posting here.

> BTW, where is Jerry ? In fact where are all the people who usaed to post
> here ?
>
Some just changed their lives I think. Later this year it's 20 years
since I first saw this newsgroup, and the only other one in the hierarcy
was sci.electronics. Some of the regulars disappeared long enough ago that
I just assume their lives changed and they had less time for the
newsgroup. I've always assumed Sam, who was so big here at one
point, had less time to spend here. People who disappeared later, it
might be that they were lured by other forums.

Michael





== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 11:12 am
From: Allodoxaphobia


On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 08:12:21 -0800 (PST), jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
> On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 4:54:05 AM UTC-5, blhbr...@gmail.com wrote:
>> you're stereo probably has a small pece off metal inside on the bord try to tip it upside down and tap on it to see if you here any thing lose if not then you receiver board may be defective but this is only because I've owed alot if them I'm in need of the front price mine simply burnt out
>
> Did you happen to notice the DATE ? This thread is FOURTEEN YEARS OLD !

heh.. The OP was just another Google Grooper:

Message-ID: <c8eec3dc-b626-4b16-90a9-5efb7a0f0fae@googlegroups.com>

... with to-be-expected grammar and spelling issuse.




== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 11:34 am
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


Actually I used to get here from AOL. Right now I am using google. Sucks, but it works. Anyway, since I know how google sucks, err works, what I don't understand is how he is getting so far back.

Google presents the threads newest first, 30 at a time. To get 14 years back, this guy must have sat there all day scrolling down until it says "Loading more topics" about 100 times.




== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:16 pm
From: Michael Black


On Wed, 19 Feb 2014, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:

> Actually I used to get here from AOL. Right now I am using google.
> Sucks, but it works. Anyway, since I know how google sucks, err works,
> what I don't understand is how he is getting so far back.
>
> Google presents the threads newest first, 30 at a time. To get 14 years
> back, this guy must have sat there all day scrolling down until it says
> "Loading more topics" about 100 times.
>
The search engine may work sometimes still.

IN this case, he was looking for a front panel, so he likely did a search,
and then didnt' pay attention to the date (though why he didn't try email
is a wonder, except google garbles so much that I suspect the email
address isn't readily available).

But I just saw one in another newsgroup to a post a four years old, and
it's some "useful help" to the original poster. I can't figure out how
someone comes upon that, and then has something of value to add. I can
see someone looking for a solution and then asking further in an old
thread (not that I think it's a valid way to do things), but to add a
suggestion for help?

Some of those, the problem has long been solved, since the software has
changed. Then it gets silly as someone else replies to the original post
now that it's been bumped up at google, and tells the original poster "get
newer software" as if in 1994 there was newer software.

Or, the late repliers never bother to read the whole thread, so they never
see that ample suggestions were given way back then to possible solutions.

Michael





== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:00 am
From: Leif Neland


Den 19-02-2014, skrev Michael Black:

> But I just saw one in another newsgroup to a post a four years old, and it's
> some "useful help" to the original poster. I can't figure out how someone
> comes upon that, and then has something of value to add. I can see someone
> looking for a solution and then asking further in an old thread (not that I
> think it's a valid way to do things), but to add a suggestion for help?
>
I've done that sometimes.

I was looking for an answer, but only found unanswered questions.

Then I found the answer off-line, or by myself, and went back and added
my answer, so somebody else could use it.

And I felt good afterwards :-)

But I wish google would ask "Are you really sure you want to answer
such an old message?"

I've also asked about how to repair my garden scredder (sp?), and two
years later I got a call if I still got it, because he needed it for
spare parts. I did have it, and got some money for it.

Leif

--
Husk kørelys bagpå, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
beslutning at undlade det.







==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse for motor protection?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aa544fb8b4b8aa0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 9:27 am
From: Jon Elson


Mike Cook wrote:

>> However I reckon you would be better off with thermal protection if the
>> motor does not have it.
>
> How does thermal protection work? I understand the safety mechanism, but
> if a motor is heating up under load, isn't it drawing over-max current?
> Shouldn't the (carefully-chosen value) fuse blow?
>
> I need to learn about this, I know...
The phase angle of induction motors changes with varying load.
The current draw only changes a little with loads from zero
to the motor's rating. So, if the motor is rated
at 1/2 Hp, 208 V, the running current at rated load
will be something just over 2 A.
I = (745 W * 1/2 * 1.2 (efficiency))/208

At idle, the current may be 1.5 - 1.7 A with a very low power
factor (phase angle near 90 degrees lagging). At full load,
the current will be about 2.1 A with a phase angle of maybe
5 - 10 degrees. This, the motor draws more REAL POWER at
full load, but the current doesn't change much throughout the
range the motor is rated for. This is why external fusing
for motors is to protect the building wiring from fire, it
does not protect the motor from minor overload or overheating.
Internal thermal protectors actually measure the temperature
INSIDE the motor, and thus are a lot more effective.

Jon




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 10:54 am
From: "Ian Field"




"Mike Cook" <mcham@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF299E2407BCD35AB01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
>> However I reckon you would be better off with thermal protection if the
>> motor does not have it.
>
> How does thermal protection work? I understand the safety mechanism, but
> if a
> motor is heating up under load, isn't it drawing over-max current?
> Shouldn't
> the (carefully-chosen value) fuse blow?

There's usually a fair bit of heaving and grunting as a motor starts
spinning - especially if it starts under load.

Even a slow-blow fuse that can handle the second or two of what is pretty
much stall-current, will carry enough steady running current to let the
magic smoke out if a fault/overload develops.





== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 5:17 am
From: "Wild_Bill"


A fuse is not a replacement for a properly-sized motor OLP overload
protection device.

A fuse will protect wiring, as previously stated.. but you'll just keep
asking the question until you get the answer you want, right?

Overload protectors and TP thermal protection devices aren't the same, and
are intended for completely different situations.

The OLP will react rapidly to protect a motor in the event of a sudden
machine jam or other fault.

The application was previously stated to be a bandsaw which previously had a
smaller motor on it.

Generally, fuses aren't motor protection devices, and won't replace a proper
OLP.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............


"Mike Cook" <mcham@NOTyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.CF26EAE3071AD086B01029BF@news.eternal-september.org...
>A small 1/2 hp induction motor is turned on and off with a motor-rated
>toggle
> switch connected to a 208V 20A branch circuit. No other protection
> installed.
>
>
> Obviously not enough protection so I'm planning to add a slow-blow 9A fuse
> (rating of the motor) to keep it safe.
>
> Any objections?
>






==============================================================================
TOPIC: 3.5mm stereo headphone socket that isn't.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/28320987875a2efc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 12:28 pm
From: etpm@whidbey.com


On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
<sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:

>
>"dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>
>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>> surface
>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>
>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>
>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>> The
>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>> meets
>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>
>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>> actually
>>> fit.
>>>
>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>> presumably
>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>
>>>
>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>
>>>
>>> Bizarre.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>> my shop.
>
>
>
>This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>
>This is the Schurter one, length of shaft = 18.6mm.
>http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>
>
>They are not compatible.
>
>Gareth.
>
Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
Eric

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com





== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 5:17 pm
From: Rheilly Phoull


On 20/02/14 04:28, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
> <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> "dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>>
>>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>>> surface
>>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>>
>>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>>
>>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>>> The
>>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>>> meets
>>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>>
>>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>>> actually
>>>> fit.
>>>>
>>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>>> presumably
>>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Bizarre.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>>> my shop.
>>
>>
>>
>> This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>>
>>
>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>>
>>
>> They are not compatible.
>>
>> Gareth.
>>
> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
> Eric
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
understand ??




== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 9:16 am
From: etpm@whidbey.com


On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:17:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
<rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:

>On 20/02/14 04:28, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 19 Feb 2014 15:06:14 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"
>> <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> "dave" <ricketzz@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>> news:ZNCdnS9txdPUWJnOnZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>> On 02/19/2014 02:37 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
>>>>> I don't get this at all.
>>>>>
>>>>> I need a 3.5mm switched stereo headphone socket to replace a broken
>>>>> surface
>>>>> mount PCB socket.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I bought this, the only one that Farnell sell.
>>>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.2300.pdf
>>>>>
>>>>> http://uk.farnell.com/schurter/4802-2300/socket-3-5mm-jack-panel-3pole/dp/143336
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Only it is the wrong dimensions to fit a standard 3.5mm headphone jack.
>>>>> The
>>>>> jack plug will not go far enough into the socket, as the plug's collar
>>>>> meets
>>>>> the threaded part of the socket too early.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now I've measured a couple of headphone plugs, one on my Sony headphones,
>>>>> and from the collar to the end of the centre pin is 14mm. From the
>>>>> technical drawing above, it is clear that there is no way this can
>>>>> actually
>>>>> fit.
>>>>>
>>>>> In this technical drawing is another drawing of a 3.5mm plug that
>>>>> presumably
>>>>> mates with this socket, because it does not have the collar you find on
>>>>> headphone jack plugs.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> So are there 2 different types of 3.5mm plug/socket standards?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Bizarre.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> They come in 2, 3 or 4 conductor versions. They are all the same length in
>>>> my shop.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> This is a typical 3.5mm plug, length of shaft = 14.25mm
>>> http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1680205.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.schurter.ch/var/schurter/storage/ilcatalogue/files/document/datasheet/en/pdf/typ_4802.1300.pdf
>>>
>>>
>>> They are not compatible.
>>>
>>> Gareth.
>>>
>> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
>> Eric
>>
>> ---
>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>> http://www.avast.com
>>
>Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
>understand ??
I did understand the message. I just noticed that the name "Schurter
is pretty close to the word "shorter" and I thought it was funny that
the shorter one was longer. Sheesh!
Etic

---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com





== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 10:54 am
From: dave


On 02/20/2014 09:16 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:17:18 +0800, Rheilly Phoull
> <rheilly@bigslong.com> wrote:
>
>
>>>> They are not compatible.
>>>>
>>>> Gareth.
>>>>
>>> Not any help but did anybody notice that the Schurter is longer?
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> ---
>>> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
>>> http://www.avast.com
>>>
>> Which part of the message saying "The Schurter is 18mm long" did you not
>> understand ??
> I did understand the message. I just noticed that the name "Schurter
> is pretty close to the word "shorter" and I thought it was funny that
> the shorter one was longer. Sheesh!
> Etic
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>

Some people have no sense of Yuma.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Why are headphone jacks for computers and handsets different diameters
than cellphones?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3b636d8ab09f744a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 8:47 pm
From: Caulking-Gunn@work.com


On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
<jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:

>It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>
>Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>diameters anyway?
>
>Is there a functional difference?

Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?




== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Feb 19 2014 10:15 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Caulking-Gunn@work.com wrote:
>
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
> >
> >Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
> >diameters anyway?
> >
> >Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?


Why would anyone need a 'caulking gunn' for anything?

Some people are online while other people are sleeping A headset with
a boom mic allows you to use Skype or other functions without making so
much noise.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.




== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 3:38 am
From: DerbyDad03


<Caulking-Gunn@work.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?

To listen to stuff.




== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:47 am
From: dave


On 02/19/2014 08:47 PM, Caulking-Gunn@work.com wrote:
> On Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:48:17 +0000 (UTC), Judy Miller
> <jmiller@not.gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> It always seems I have the wrong diameter headphone jack when I need one.
>>
>> Since adapters exist, why do they make headphone jacks different
>> diameters anyway?
>>
>> Is there a functional difference?
>
> Why would anyone want to use a headphone on a computer?
>

To hear the audio on media files?





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Soundcraft Compact 4, small mixer , 2005
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e2c87511c7bde3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 6:54 am
From: N_Cook


More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
spots on the tracks.
2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
meths inside, in the first instance.
Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
removing the pots.
BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
recessed into the side cheeks.




== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 10:53 am
From: dave


On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
> spots on the tracks.
> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
> meths inside, in the first instance.
> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
> removing the pots.
> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
> recessed into the side cheeks.

The labor costs more than the thing is worth?




== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:24 am
From: N_Cook


On 20/02/2014 18:53, dave wrote:
> On 02/20/2014 06:54 AM, N_Cook wrote:
>> More a case of lack of use, certainly not due to wear , and as I can see
>> the grease oozing out of the spindle area, presumably compacted grease
>> spots on the tracks.
>> 2 main rotary stereo pots are bad I don't mind attending to individually
>> but half the other such 30 or so rotary pots are "scratchy".
>> I think I'll use my modified electric toothbrush head and methylated
>> spirits squirted in the convenient access hole in these Alpha pots,
>> agitating via the toothbrush reciprocating motion , while plenty of
>> meths inside, in the first instance.
>> Any other ideas? desoldering a load of stereo rotary pots with plated
>> through holes and very close SMD active devices is asking for colateral
>> damage. How to get the grease out or at least redistributed without
>> removing the pots.
>> BTW intrusion of graphic designer cobblers?, its impossible for an owner
>> to remove the DC power connector without pliers or by pulling the lead
>> at the wrong angle, ie straining the usual failure position, because
>> recessed into the side cheeks.
>
> The labor costs more than the thing is worth?

I do wonder how long the pot makers have known about the problem with
the lubricant migrating and the very flimsy wiper metal used in the SMD
era sub16mm pots era. The grase has to only bind a bit and solidify a
bit and the wipers will lift off the track. Ive never seen a worn track
on one of these pots.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: A Brief Introduction to Islam
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c2d4e34bf9bab000?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:14 am
From: bv4bv4bv4@gmail.com


A Brief Introduction to Islam

A brief introduction to the meaning of Islam, the notion of God in Islam, and His basic message to humanity through the Prophets.

http://www.islamhouse.com/426146/en/en/articles/A_Brief_Introduction_to_Islam

Thank you





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Harman Kardon AVR30, 1993
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6ff015ea21f997c9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 11:30 am
From: N_Cook


An odd fault, no audio out as though in mute mode. The user manual says
if in mute the volume knob LED flashes. What LED, nothing lit, just the
power LED and function LEDs.
The 2 thin wires that loop around the rotating pot motor shaft must have
snagged somewhere and tugged enough to bend up the pcb connector socket
and break a wire somewhere. If no LED load , the amp goes into
protect/mute? the next time the amp is powered up, but caries on as
normal until put in standby.




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:41 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


My ex-boss used to say "Don't look for elephants whern you might just have fleas". Kinda stupid but makes a point. Don't assume it is some wierdass problem that only me and three otyher techs on the face of the planet could figure ut, like the vertical height for a greyscale problem. (it was related to AKB and a replaced CRT)

Just troubleshoot it normally. It is not an old Fisher in which you don't get multiplex if the light blub burns out.

Just do what you would normally do, the LED may have been out for ten years before the actual fault showed up. If it's a reciever see if it recieves, does it say it gets a signal ? If you put in a signal does it show up on a scope at the volume control ? The tape outputs ? The PRE-OUTs ? (if any) If it's in protect mode, is there offset at the emittter resistors or the output of the STKs or whatever ?

Just do the usual. I have been fooled enough times tha tI now just check out pretty much everything. And while I DO want a statd complaint from the customer, I don't heed it. they are not only supid sometimes, some are even dishonest. Like bring in a TV and say the picture is shrink and you find out the fucking CRT is broken.

Voltages, signal, waveforms. Don't let anything phase you.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Hickock CRO-5000a
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6a1f1fdf9eeca5e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Feb 20 2014 1:52 pm
From: jurb6006@gmail.com


My buddy just picked one up in a deal. I can't seem to find anything on it. It is coming for me to check out and though a print would be nice, I don't even need that. I don't know if the thing is 5 Mhz, 50 Mhz or what. There is one on eBay (I think in the UK) for sale (for $359 !). From the picture it doesn't look like much but you never know. The ad, or one of the google hits indicate that it is solid state at least.

I nothing else it can become a component checker or something, or we can unload it cheap to a student, who might be able to learn something from it a bit easier than a new LCD job. Even an interested kid. I got my first scop when I was about 13 I think. It seemed like a truck in size, it was a Hickock coincidentally and with all that bulk it had a giant three inch scren I think ! If I remember correctly the graticule was glued on, like scotch tape with lines !

The technology was, well, defies words...

anyway, does anyone have any onfo on the CRO-5000a ? If it can be made to work easily I could spec it out, but if there are any problems that require a bunch of effort and/or money I would like to know if it is worth it. Evne a 5 Mhz can be used for some audio work...

Hell, I don't even lnow if it is triggered !

Any info is appreciated.




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