sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

* Italian RCF Flexa PS6320 modular amp system, 2006 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/44a8e5a3eef747c6?hl=en
* Wanted: information on charger for Rio S50 mp3 player - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94eb0328315f4b4b?hl=en
* Lionel train question - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96607f75fdffab21?hl=en
* Centronix gender? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
* solutions manual books - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da0257ee7872fe79?hl=en
* HP Laserjet 4000 paper jam and other issues. - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8620b1cad620b4b9?hl=en
* 34970A logger loss of serial com - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/41b8c594179c76f4?hl=en
* Rare 18 amp fuse in Panasonic microwave - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1942a360b304cf93?hl=en
* I bought a Moto G from Motorola, and it doesn't come with a CHARGER! - 9
messages, 9 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a656ae396ed31d8e?hl=en
* Root cause insight into the common BMW blower motor resistor failures - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6c594f4d879a6b1?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Italian RCF Flexa PS6320 modular amp system, 2006
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/44a8e5a3eef747c6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 8:24 am
From: N_Cook


Replaced the primary SMPS IC and same poor DC supply .
Determined it was not due to excessive load, shorted turns in the
inverter Tx unlikely.
Tried the secondary SMPS powered from bench ps and that brought up the
internal Vref , requiring a supply of 10V , not 8.6V which is just below
the undervoltage lock out. The Vref supplies the "thermal" LED opamps etc.
Went back to the first SMPS and placed 4.7uF across the little 2.2uF SMD
aluminium electrolytic that smoothed the sense voltage and the DC supply
came up to 13.2V. So bad ESR cap again it looks like, falsely telling
the IC that the Tx was overloading, rectified sense voltage was too
high. The opto coupler was not for the primary SMPS, coupling is the
other way round, probably to pass mains AC-ON confirmation, to lock out
the 24V DC option, not used , as only mains use .
Will tidy up cut traces and should hopefully be back into operation.
About 2,500 GBP amp and as a not current model and long wire HV ducted
cabling and transformered speakers etc, perhaps that again if a
replacement 5 ch distribution amplifier was not compatible and all the
other kit had to be replaced also





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Wanted: information on charger for Rio S50 mp3 player
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/94eb0328315f4b4b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 9:53 am
From: Beloved Leader


On Friday, November 15, 2013 12:30:52 PM UTC-5, Beloved Leader wrote:
> Hi. The RioS50 mp3 player was on the market some ten years ago. The owner's manual and reviews are easily found online.
....

Although the owner's manual and reviews are online, I have not found the details for the recharger.

I just wasn't looking hard enough. The correct voltage is revealed here:

http://transistor-man.com/Altoid%20MP3.html

"The power source was 1 AA / AA NIMH battery, which was dc-dc converted to 3.3V for the devices operation."

So that's the trick. I don't think it's a new page, but I've never seen it come up before in a search.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lionel train question
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/96607f75fdffab21?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 12:19 pm
From: Jon Elson


captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:


>
> Since the small transformers included with this set get hot and are too
> small I've been using my bench variac through an isolation transformer to
> test the train. I tried to see if I could blow the whistle by connecting
> my DC power supply to the track, but the current peaked at over 6 amps and
> took out the power supply fuse twice. The variac didn't like it either and
> started to growl. I figure the train motor as well as the transformer
> secondary must be loading the DC supply heavily, and perhaps vice versa.
> I'm not really sure whats happening here.
The locomotive motor should work fine on DC. So, just switch the track
between AC (loco only) or DC (loco plus whistle). My guess is the
ancient system just placed a selenium rectifier in series with one
transformer wire to go to pulsating DC. So, you ought to try putting
a silicon rectifier in series with your transformer. The way this works,
as far as I know, is you SUBSTITUTE pulsed DC for AC, not ADDING DC in
series with AC, as you tried. That probably put too much voltage on
the motors. The pulsed DC in the Lionel transformer may cause
saturation of the iron, and it may start buzzing or overheat. If that
is the case, then you'd need to put a bridge rectifier between the
transformer and the track, so the transformer still sees AC only.
I seem to recall the Lionel transformers with the whistle function had
a warning on them to only use the whistle for 10 seconds per minute or
something like that.

Jon




== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 12:50 pm
From: Lee


On 03/02/2014 05:35, captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:
> I realize that this is probably not the correct forum to ask this question, however with so many talented people out there who subscribe to this group I was hoping that someone would either know the answer to this or perhaps be able to direct me to a more appropriate group.
>
> Some time ago I picked up a box of old mid 1950's Lionel trains, track, two small adjustable train transformers and some accessories. I just got finished going through the equipment, and with the addition of some new parts and labor have restored everything to good working order once again. The engine is a 2055 and it is married to a coal tender that has a whistle inside of it. The train motor operates on 0 - 16 VAC, but the whistle in the tender, (which is a small fan motor which blows air through some portals), I am told operates on DC. This DC voltage is somehow superimposed on the AC. The correct transformers for this set have levers that you would move to apply the DC to the track, operate the tender motor and blow the whistle, and would be either the KW or the ZW, neither of which came with the equipment in the box. After completing repairs, I confirmed that the tender whistle was working by taking the tender to a train show and trying it out on a test track.
>
> Since the small transformers included with this set get hot and are too small I've been using my bench variac through an isolation transformer to test the train. I tried to see if I could blow the whistle by connecting my DC power supply to the track, but the current peaked at over 6 amps and took out the power supply fuse twice. The variac didn't like it either and started to growl. I figure the train motor as well as the transformer secondary must be loading the DC supply heavily, and perhaps vice versa. I'm not really sure whats happening here.
>
> I subsequently found a larger transformer at another yard sale which is able to handle the current required to run the AC motor in he engine, but there is no whistle provision. I've set the train up in the play room temporarily with the larger transformer but it would really be nice if my 4 year old grandson could hear the whistle blow. Is it possible when the whistle is blown that the DC is being placed in series with the AC? Sounds crazy but I never tried that. This couldn't be very complicated. What am I missing here? Thanks, Lenny
>

Anything useful in Fran's video here?:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yP89xhVLK9o&feature=player_detailpage#t=291




== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 5:43 pm
From: "hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net"


On Sunday, February 2, 2014 11:35:58 PM UTC-6, captainvi...@gmail.com wrote:
> I realize that this is probably not the correct forum to ask this question, however with so many talented people out there who subscribe to this group I was hoping that someone would either know the answer to this or perhaps be able to direct me to a more appropriate group. Some time ago I picked up a box of old mid 1950's Lionel trains, track, two small adjustable train transformers and some accessories. I just got finished going through the equipment, and with the addition of some new parts and labor have restored everything to good working order once again. The engine is a 2055 and it is married to a coal tender that has a whistle inside of it. The train motor operates on 0 - 16 VAC, but the whistle in the tender, (which is a small fan motor which blows air through some portals), I am told operates on DC. This DC voltage is somehow superimposed on the AC. The correct transformers for this set have levers that you would move to apply the DC to the track, operate the tender motor and blow the whistle, and would be either the KW or the ZW, neither of which came with the equipment in the box. After completing repairs, I confirmed that the tender whistle was working by taking the tender to a train show and trying it out on a test track. Since the small transformers included with this set get hot and are too small I've been using my bench variac through an isolation transformer to test the train. I tried to see if I could blow the whistle by connecting my DC power supply to the track, but the current peaked at over 6 amps and took out the power supply fuse twice. The variac didn't like it either and started to growl. I figure the train motor as well as the transformer secondary must be loading the DC supply heavily, and perhaps vice versa. I'm not really sure whats happening here. I subsequently found a larger transformer at another yard sale which is able to handle the current required to run the AC motor in he engine, but there is no whistle provision. I've set the train up in the play room temporarily with the larger transformer but it would really be nice if my 4 year old grandson could hear the whistle blow. Is it possible when the whistle is blown that the DC is being placed in series with the AC? Sounds crazy but I never tried that. This couldn't be very complicated. What am I missing here? Thanks, Lenny

You can't put the DC in parallel wiith the AC. I would put the DC supply in series with the AC supply from the transformer secondary that is running the engine. You might have to reverse the polarity of the dc to get the whistle to work. Let us know if this works. OR, contact a member of your local toy train club and talk to them to find out for sure how this should be connected.




== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 4:41 pm
From: "Maynard A. Philbrook Jr."


In article <3f68bc9d-b391-4402-81f1-69ab37f63da1@googlegroups.com>,
captainvideo462009@gmail.com says...
> I subsequently found a larger transformer at another yard sale which is able to handle the current required to run the AC motor in he engine, but there is no whistle provision. I've set the train up in the play room temporarily with the larger transformer but it would really be nice if my 4 year old grandson could hear the whistle blow. Is it possible when the whistle is blown that the DC is being placed in series with the AC? Sounds crazy but I never tried that. This
couldn't be very complicated. What am I missing here? Thanks, Lenny
>
>

Yes, It's been far too long :)

you have a normally closed momentary switch across a
DIODE that is in line with your AC doing to the tracks.
Or One could use a knife switch like was done back then!

The motor in the engine should be a universal type, which
means it'll operate on either or. But the whistle is DC only..

I also seem to remember there was a polarity requirement and
different tricks were used operating different DC items on the engine.

Smoke and noise.! Make sure you use appropriate diode and put a
snubber circuit across it, otherwise Mr L could get angry and fully
collapse on you at the wrong time!

Jamie






==============================================================================
TOPIC: Centronix gender?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11a01a13e1df3c26?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 1:25 pm
From: Cydrome Leader


Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> Cydrome Leader wrote:
>>
>> Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > Cydrome Leader wrote:
>> >>
>> >> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > I never soldered them. I used a crimper to install pins for a
>> >> > new DB25. :)
>> >>
>> >> That reminds me of those white and red pin extractor tools. I just
>> >> saw one pop up not too long ago.
>> >
>> >
>> > I've used thin brass tubing when the right extractor wasn't
>> > available. :)
>>
>> It's always the last pin or shell that just won't come out or has the
>> locking splays break off during the battle to be removed.That happensquite often if you don't push the wire in to pull the tabs away from the housing. Other times it's from excessive pulling on the wire, till it deforms the tabs.

I hate molex connectors for this reason. The phase of the moon will make a
the pins and shells go out of aligmment and then somebody force it,
leaving it broken for the next use. I'm surprised there isn't some $450
tool to pull the pins or shells back into the connector housing.








== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 2:04 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"



Cydrome Leader wrote:
>
> I hate molex connectors for this reason. The phase of the moon will make a
> the pins and shells go out of aligmment and then somebody force it,
> leaving it broken for the next use. I'm surprised there isn't some $450
> tool to pull the pins or shells back into the connector housing.


I've seen a lot of fake Molex connectors in PCs. Their logo was
missing on the shell, and the contacts.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: solutions manual books
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/da0257ee7872fe79?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 1:34 pm
From: solutionsbook@gmail.com



solutions book team


solutionsbook(at)hotmail(dot)com

We're a team for providing solution manuals to help students in their
study.
We sell the books in a soft copy, PDF format.

We will find any book or solution manual for you.

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: HP Laserjet 4000 paper jam and other issues.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8620b1cad620b4b9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 3:20 pm
From: "David Farber"


Initially there was a paper jam from the paper tray 2 which is the drawer
that slides into the bottom of the printer. I pulled out the paper and it
jammed again. The paper does not jam when fed through the foldout tray 1,
which is the combination envelope and paper feeder. When the printer is
powered up now, the display says, "Checking Printer," and blank paper starts
coming out. I believe this is a test that the printer makes to ensure the
jam is cleared up. However after four sheets of paper go through, the
display shows "Paper jam" again and it stops in mid cycle. Sometimes the
paper is not jammed but the display says it is anyway. The other malfunction
is that the pickup rollers for tray 2 are activated even if there is no
paper in the drawer. I found what was supposed to be the best solution here
http://h30499.www3.hp.com/t5/Black-and-White/HP-4000-checking-printer/td-p/4671668#.UvAcJFYmaSo
and here http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/printer/68794. The fixes
made sense to me but it still is trying to pick up paper when it isn't
supposed to. I dismantled a good portion of the printer checking for
anything that might be causing it to jam but could not find any problem. I
tried this fix http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/forums/printer/27551 as well
with no success.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA






== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 3:57 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Mon, 3 Feb 2014 15:20:07 -0800, "David Farber"
<farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

>Initially there was a paper jam from the paper tray 2 which is the drawer
>that slides into the bottom of the printer.

Replace the feed roller RB1-8865 located above tray 2. If my
guess(tm) is correct, the printer has never had any of the rubber
parts replaced. Considering it's age, you might as well replace ALL
the rubber. Cheap enough:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/320746402020>

>The other malfunction
>is that the pickup rollers for tray 2 are activated even if there is no
>paper in the drawer.

Congratulations. Your printer also has the HP exclusive sticky
solenoid problem. How to fix it on an HP2200, HP2300, HP4250, etc.
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/hp2200/hp2200.html>
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/hp4200/hp4200.html>
Unfortunately, I haven't bothered to make a web page for the HP4000
series printers. It's similar to the others except that the solenoid
is buried under additional layers of metal plates. I suggest you take
photos to help with the reassembly.
<http://marketpoint.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/lj40004100-025.gif>
Tear the printer apart. Find the sticky solenoids. Clean off the
sticky goo from BOTH the armature and solenoid core using solvent.
Apply thin felt as shown. Demagnetize the solenoid core if you
suspect that it's magentized.
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/hp2200-solenoid.wmv>
Put Humpty Dumpty back together again. Be sure to thank HP for
ignoring the problem since the earliest HP laserjet printers.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558




== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 1:24 am
From: "David Farber"


Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Mon, 3 Feb 2014 15:20:07 -0800, "David Farber"
> <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Initially there was a paper jam from the paper tray 2 which is the
>> drawer that slides into the bottom of the printer.
>
> Replace the feed roller RB1-8865 located above tray 2. If my
> guess(tm) is correct, the printer has never had any of the rubber
> parts replaced. Considering it's age, you might as well replace ALL
> the rubber. Cheap enough:
> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/320746402020>
>
>> The other malfunction
>> is that the pickup rollers for tray 2 are activated even if there is
>> no paper in the drawer.
>
> Congratulations. Your printer also has the HP exclusive sticky
> solenoid problem. How to fix it on an HP2200, HP2300, HP4250, etc.
> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/hp2200/hp2200.html>
> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/hp4200/hp4200.html>
> Unfortunately, I haven't bothered to make a web page for the HP4000
> series printers. It's similar to the others except that the solenoid
> is buried under additional layers of metal plates. I suggest you take
> photos to help with the reassembly.
> <http://marketpoint.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/lj40004100-025.gif>
> Tear the printer apart. Find the sticky solenoids. Clean off the
> sticky goo from BOTH the armature and solenoid core using solvent.
> Apply thin felt as shown. Demagnetize the solenoid core if you
> suspect that it's magentized.
> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/hp2200-solenoid.wmv>
> Put Humpty Dumpty back together again. Be sure to thank HP for
> ignoring the problem since the earliest HP laserjet printers.

Hi Jeff,

I did clean (though probably not well enough) the sticky stuff off of the
solenoid which is used to control the lower "D" rollers. I used some
electrical tape as was suggested in the fix. Is the purpose of the felt or
electrical tape to muffle the sound when the solenoid is energized or is
there a mechanical reason as well? I'll take it out again, put some dc on
it, and see how it operates. I'll also replace the rubber parts.

Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA






== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 5:09 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Tue, 4 Feb 2014 01:24:19 -0800, "David Farber"
<farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

>I did clean (though probably not well enough) the sticky stuff off of the
>solenoid which is used to control the lower "D" rollers. I used some
>electrical tape as was suggested in the fix. Is the purpose of the felt or
>electrical tape to muffle the sound when the solenoid is energized or is
>there a mechanical reason as well? I'll take it out again, put some dc on
>it, and see how it operates. I'll also replace the rubber parts.

Don't use electrical tape. My original version of the fix indicated
to use 2 layers of electrical tape. That worked for about 3 months,
when the tape got warm and fell off. I had to rework about 8 printers
where I had used tape. The felt has lasted much longer.

There are various thicknesses of felt available at the local hardware
store. The stuff in the photo is 2mm thick (including the backing
paper and NOT compressed). I also have some felt that's about 1mm
thick. Both work just fine but I would NOT go any thicker than 2mm.

The main purpose of the felt to reduce the sound, but it also may have
a secondary purpose. Running the solenoids off DC tends to magnetize
the cores. If the armature comes in contact with the core, it will
stick. See video at:
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/hp2200-solenoid.wmv>
The felt provides the necessary air gap so that the armature doesn't
stick.

If replacing all the rubber parts and fixing the sticky solenoid
doesn't do the trick, there are some obscure problems that should be
investigates. The clutch that runs the feed roller (the one above the
paper tray) gets dirty and doesn't release. Tear it apart, clean out
the metal dust, and it should be ok. Another common problem is a
sticky paper height sensor. That's also above the tray. Clean with a
paint brush.

Good luck.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558





==============================================================================
TOPIC: 34970A logger loss of serial com
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/41b8c594179c76f4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 4:21 pm
From: legg


On Sun, 2 Feb 2014 18:42:51 -0500, "Maynard A. Philbrook Jr."
<jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> wrote:

>In article <9g8te9pt11c0q8nc5fg3r26hogm6hgip8p@4ax.com>,
>legg@nospam.magma.ca says...
>> All internal supply voltages are present and accounted for, with no
>> physical signs of overloading or damage, so far. Agilent forums are
>> silent on the issue, so far, but I don't think many hardware guys
>> bother monitoring things there.
>>
>> RL
>>
>>
>
> I don't know the inside of that unit but if it is any
>thing like some equipment we have at work that uses
>Intel based mother boards, many things do, the CMOS
>battery could be bad and with that, your IRQ settings
>are now incorrect and can't link with all the hardware
>install.
>
> One example here is, we had to configure INT 11, which
>was talking to the custom PCI IO card to operate in legacy
>mode, otherwise, it just didn't think any connected devices
>was there and reported errors..
>
> If this is the case, you may even have more custom data
>being stored that was calibration data from HP that is now
>out in left field.
>
> It would be interesting to know if this does in fact have an
>Intel board in it. If so, it could also have a video and keyboard
>port.
>
>jamie

No it's all PICs, and the lithium battery was replaced in '12.

I do suspect that there's been programming corruption in one of the
PICS, though.

I'm finding that parts unconnected at the time have suffered.

For example, recalibrating one of the DAC outputs on the 34907 module
retired the power-on error. These DACs weren't even connected at the
time of the fault.

RL




== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 4:24 pm
From: legg


On Mon, 03 Feb 2014 05:42:38 -0500, JW <none@dev.null> wrote:

>On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 14:53:47 -0500 legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote in
>Message id: <9g8te9pt11c0q8nc5fg3r26hogm6hgip8p@4ax.com>:
>
>>While running a fairly lengthy series of trials, the HP34970A logger
>>started to flash it's front panal display and issue beeps, much as it
>>does(but only once) when power is first applied. It wouldn't turn off
>>from the front panel. Recycling from the line cord got the same
>>behavior.
>>
>>Disengaging the interconnecting cartridges/harness from the unit got
>>it behaving normally, so that's something to look at, but the big
>>problem is that the 34970A will no longer communicate over the serial
>>port with similar cartridges present, unconnected to the test harness.
>>
>>One thing odd is an error message occurring at power on - error 913
>>'module reported nonvolatile memory fault'. This error is not reported
>>when the self-test sequence is run. It occurs only when a 34907
>>multi-function module, used during the initial testing fault, is
>>installed in any slot at turn on. I'm working on com issues without
>>this module installed. The health of that module is just one more
>>thing to look at.
>>
>>The 34970A seems perfectly normal otherwise, programming and
>>functioning from the front panel. The issue is getting serial
>>communications re-established. I'm using fresh, known good USB-serial
>>adaptors on the PC, of the same type used during previous long and
>>successful communication history, and proven null modem harnessing
>>with the same provenance.
>>
>>Lack of communication is evidenced by failure to respond to IDN query,
>>using Visa software interface from either Agilent (secondary) or
>>Tektronix (primary). Benchlink datalogger sofware generally links
>>through the secondary Visa without an issue, but the same IDN query
>>can be generated using other software.
>>
>>I've scoped the MC145407 interface, and it seems completely healthy,
>>with all voltages normal and all input signals correctly processed,
>>but there's nothing coming back from the PC16550 for a response.
>>
>>All internal supply voltages are present and accounted for, with no
>>physical signs of overloading or damage, so far. Agilent forums are
>>silent on the issue, so far, but I don't think many hardware guys
>>bother monitoring things there.
>>
>>RL
>
>You may have a weak backup battery. If it's settings are lost it will
>revert back to GPIB default instead of serial communication. Check the
>communications options under the utility menu.

All is copacetic as far as front panel communications and set-up are
concerned. As a last resort, I'm dusting off an old usb-gpib interface
to see if it's still reachable from the other port. Maybe twiddling a
few registers will do something.

Battery replaced in late '12.

RL





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Rare 18 amp fuse in Panasonic microwave
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1942a360b304cf93?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 4:36 pm
From: cythrault@gmail.com


On Friday, May 26, 2006 9:37:13 PM UTC-4, James Sweet wrote:
> If it were my own oven, I'd try the 15A first and if that blows use a
> 20A. If a short occurs it'll blow that just as fast as the 18A. If this
> is for a customer though I would not go over 18A just because of
> liability issues.

Yah right! :)

I had this microwave repaired under warranty by a tech while I was out of town (my wife needed the microwave. :) The tech replaced the fuse by a 20A. It held for what.. 6 years? Now I need a new fuse. I won't bother and put a 20A.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: I bought a Moto G from Motorola, and it doesn't come with a CHARGER!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a656ae396ed31d8e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Mon, Feb 3 2014 10:32 pm
From: Cordell James


Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?

Did yours come with a charger?
If not, what size charger do we need to buy?

My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
charger! That stinks!

Now I have to buy a charger.
But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.





== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 12:37 am
From: Leviatan


A Cordell James se le ha ocurrido que:

> Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?
>
> Did yours come with a charger?
> If not, what size charger do we need to buy?
>
> My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
> and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
> charger! That stinks!
>
> Now I have to buy a charger.
> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
> Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.

I think this is a reasonable measure.

We are all the day talking about saving the enviroment; producing less
electronic waste, etc... Now that every mobile has the same chrging
plug (with the known exception of Apple devices) and everybody changes
his mobile each two years, I see very logical that phones are sold
without charger (or even USB cord), as verybody has several of them at
home. Obviously, the price should reflect that save (and I think the
Moto G does).

Regarding to your question; any 1A charger will be more than enough...

--
Un saludo,
Alberto






== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 5:59 am
From: "SC Tom"




"Cordell James" <cordell.james@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:lcq1ic$lln$2@news.mixmin.net...
> Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?
>
> Did yours come with a charger?
> If not, what size charger do we need to buy?
>
> My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
> and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
> charger! That stinks!
>
> Now I have to buy a charger.
> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
> Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.
>

The output of the charger really doesn't matter, as long as it meets the
minimum requirements of the device. IOW, if you have a 2.1A charger on hand
that you use for a tablet or other device, and it has the same µUSB plug as
the Moto, then you can use it without any chance of harm. It's only going to
draw what it needs; the charger isn't going to "force" 2.1A into it.
--
SC Tom






== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 6:39 am
From: Seth Goodman


In article <lcq1ic$lln$2@news.mixmin.net>, cordell.james@gmail.com
wrote:
>
> Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?
>
> Did yours come with a charger?
> If not, what size charger do we need to buy?
>
> My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
> and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
> charger! That stinks!
>
> Now I have to buy a charger.
> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
> Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.


"How do I properly charge my device?

In order to keep the price low, Motorola made many cost-saving decisons.
In this case, our research showed that many people already had a
suitable Motorola charger available, or a PC or other device that can be
used to charge Moto G.

Any Motorola charger with the correct micro-USB tip will charge your
Moto G. You will see the best results when the output of the charger is
between 500 mA and 1.5 A. The higher the output, the faster your Moto G
will charge.

If your charger output is higher, the MOTO G will automatically restrict
the charging rate. If your charger is lower, it will simply take longer
to reach a full charge."

https://motorola-global-
portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_answer_detail/a_id/97318/p/30,6720,
9050/action/auth

--
Seth Goodman




== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 7:15 am
From: Amanda Williams


Seth Goodman <seth_news@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:MPG.2d5ac5965ab3c0c989696@news.eternal-september.org:

> In article <lcq1ic$lln$2@news.mixmin.net>, cordell.james@gmail.com
> wrote:
>>
>> Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?
>>
>> Did yours come with a charger?
>> If not, what size charger do we need to buy?
>>
>> My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
>> and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
>> charger! That stinks!
>>
>> Now I have to buy a charger.
>> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
>> Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.
>
>
> "How do I properly charge my device?
>
> In order to keep the price low, Motorola made many cost-saving
decisons.
> In this case, our research showed that many people already had a
> suitable Motorola charger available, or a PC or other device that can
be
> used to charge Moto G.
>
> Any Motorola charger with the correct micro-USB tip will charge your
> Moto G. You will see the best results when the output of the charger is
> between 500 mA and 1.5 A. The higher the output, the faster your Moto G
> will charge.
>
> If your charger output is higher, the MOTO G will automatically
restrict
> the charging rate. If your charger is lower, it will simply take longer
> to reach a full charge."
>
> https://motorola-global-
> portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_answer_detail/a_id/97318/p/30,6720
,
> 9050/action/auth
>

Yeah any micro-usb charger will do... I use the same charger for my phone
and my tablet... it was originally a charger for an old long deceased
phone

--
Aw - Small but dangerous




== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 7:18 am
From: Tony Hwang


Cordell James wrote:
> Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?
>
> Did yours come with a charger?
> If not, what size charger do we need to buy?
>
> My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
> and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
> charger! That stinks!
>
> Now I have to buy a charger.
> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
> Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.
>
Hi,
Won't it charge thru USB port? My laptop has feature to
boost USB output current to charge many different things
on USB port. Also There is Car DC 12V to USB charger you
can buy.




== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 10:51 am
From: "s|b"


On Tue, 4 Feb 2014 06:32:44 +0000 (UTC), Cordell James wrote:

> Now I have to buy a charger.
> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?

Just stick in a USB-port on your computer. It'll charge. (You /do/ have
a computer, don't you? ;-)

--
s|b




== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 5:28 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Tue, 4 Feb 2014 06:32:44 +0000 (UTC), Cordell James
<cordell.james@gmail.com> wrote:

>Have any of you bought the $200 Moto G smartphone?

Slow processor, 16GB maximum memory, no LTE, a crappy camera that
takes blurry photos, and a low contrast screen. However, it is cheap,
taudio is good, cellular range so-so, and it's well built.

>Did yours come with a charger?
>If not, what size charger do we need to buy?

The EU has decided that there should be exactly one standard charger.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_External_Power_Supply>
Since you're expected to have exactly one charger for a wide
assortment of devices, the various vendors see no reason to supply you
with a spare charger. I consider this a good idea.
<http://sneezypb.tumblr.com/post/15864266395/one-day-son-all-of-these-perfectly-good-a-c>

>My 16GB Moto G came from Motorola (not from Google Play)
>and it arrived only with a white USB cable. There is no
>charger! That stinks!

I feel your pain. However, I don't think a $5-$10 charger on eBay or
Amazon will constitute a major investment.

>Now I have to buy a charger.

Yep.

>But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?

MicroUSB. If it has a USB connector, make sure it says for Android or
Non-Apple products. Most "universal" chargers with USB connectors
have two connectors. One for Apple, and one for everything else.

>Nowhere in the package does it say the amps needed.

<https://community.republicwireless.com/thread/17308>
<http://www.wirelessground.com/motorola-dual-port-usb-charger-with-cable.html>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558




== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 5:39 pm
From: Oren


On Tue, 04 Feb 2014 19:51:11 +0100, "s|b" <me@privacy.invalid> wrote:

>On Tue, 4 Feb 2014 06:32:44 +0000 (UTC), Cordell James wrote:
>
>> Now I have to buy a charger.
>> But, which 5V USB charger do I buy?
>
>Just stick in a USB-port on your computer. It'll charge. (You /do/ have
>a computer, don't you? ;-)

I just bought a cordless drill. Unknown to me at the time, found out
on delivery, the battery charger has a USB port that will charge a
cell phone. Haven't tried the USB port yet, though.





==============================================================================
TOPIC: Root cause insight into the common BMW blower motor resistor failures
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6c594f4d879a6b1?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Feb 4 2014 7:24 pm
From: "WW"




"Bimmer Owner" wrote in message news:kisqep$jpd$2@news.albasani.net...

On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 09:43:58 -0700, trader4@optonline.net wrote:

> They do have that 16 pin chip there, doing something.
> It might receive the command and then output the appropriate PWM for
> rest of the circuit.

Someone had scoped the whole board, and it was DC voltage everywhere
(according to that reference). It's pretty clear there is no PWM.

The 16-pin surface mount chip seems to be a automotive temperature
compensated voltage regulator with a huge voltage range, according
to a lookup of the part number on it.

Here is the Elmos 10901D chip of my FSU as I cut it open today.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/12515632/img/12515632.jpg

I wish there was a way to get rid of that heavy fibrous plastic goop!
(What is that black fibrous tough stuff anyway?)

I have had good luck removing the stuff used on motorcycle voltage
regulators that were potted soaking in MEK Methyl ethyl ketone
(spelling?). Potent stuff. Use outdoors and keep your hands out of it. WW





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