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"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 11 07:13AM -0800 Yesterday I went to clean some Command LPs from Scott Dorsey, and fix the broken spindle on the record-cleaning machine (a Nitty-Gritty Mini-Pro 2).   To my surprise, the motor was jammed. (I rarely listen to LPs, and haven't used the machine in some time.) Turning it with the power on freed it.   I was just wondering... Other than the obvious (gunky grease), is there anything else that would cause a motor to jam?

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 11 03:52PM On 11/11/2014 15:13, William Sommerwerck wrote: > freed it.   > I was just wondering... Other than the obvious (gunky grease), is there > anything else that would cause a motor to jam?   breaking up commutator if that sort, or a brush shifted out of alignment

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 11 01:37AM "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:780e55ff-d76c-420d-b783-0dc07ecb48db@googlegroups.com... > oscillations.   > Beware.   > ... Phil   Thanks for the tip, Phil. Noted. I'm guessing that this fender is supposed to keep the bias balance just so as well, as it has low value resistors in the output cathodes, with the voltage across them fed back to A-D inputs on the micro as far as I can see. Except of course that there is no feedback volts a the moment because with - 89v on the grids, the valves are into really hard cut-off.   I'm at a bit of a loss to see what the supposed advantage is on this particular design, which uses a perfectly conventional EI cored output tranny. Unless the valves have gone really badly out of balance - in which case they probably need replacing anyway - I would defy most users to be able to hear any difference ... :-)   Arfa

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 10 07:53PM -0800 , Arfa Daily wrote:   > tranny. Unless the valves have gone really badly out of balance - in which > case they probably need replacing anyway - I would defy most users to be > able to hear any difference ... :-)   ** Is your Fender a " Super Sonic Twin " by any chance ?   Real dog apparently.   http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/guitar_amplifiers/fender/super-sonic_twin/index.html   Sounds like their auto bias board is near identical to the one in the H&K.       .... Phil

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Nov 11 02:22PM "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:d6277d55-45af-4356-80ef-f4329d69b79a@googlegroups.com... >> case they probably need replacing anyway - I would defy most users to be >> able to hear any difference ... :-)   > ** Is your Fender a " Super Sonic Twin " by any chance ?   It's actually a Supersonic 100 head, but same chassis in a small speaker-free cab, I believe Phil       > Real dog apparently.   > http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/reviews/guitar_amplifiers/fender/super-sonic_twin/index.html   > Sounds like their auto bias board is near identical to the one in the H&K.   Haven't come across the HK one so can't comment, but might well be. This one actually says Fender on it, but they might be trading the design around amongst themselves. It also has three preset 'settings' for soft, normal and hard bias, accessed via a foil switchpad, and a toggle switch for 'club' and 'arena' modes. Personally, if they must have user bias settings, I would prefer three preset pots inside, and a three way switch. I really don't believe that output valve balancing is enough of an issue to warrant this kind of complexity. On amps that have a bias balance preset, you have to set it a long way off before you can hear much effect, and even then, it's usually only a slight increase in background hum level ...   Arfa

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 11 10:44AM On 01/11/2014 15:21, Gareth Magennis wrote: > I rang Peavey to try and quickly establish if they knew of anything that > might be overloading the chip, or was it just the chip.   > Gareth.   This could be your over-temp drop-out failure mechanism. Sitting quiescent for 1/2 hour and an IR thermometer to the TOP body 38 deg C. But if you point it to the rear it picks up 78 deg C of the 330R dropper that is enclosed on all sides by the ps pcb , heatsink,chassis and main board. Perhaps over hours and lack of through draft that radiator heats up the heatsink and so TOP , enough to trigger temp protect. Hopefully the holes I ground through the ps pcb and the staircasing of the h/s vanes will preclude that.

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Nov 10 03:40PM -0800 On Saturday, November 8, 2014 8:18:22 PM UTC-5, Jeff Wisnia wrote: > Jeffry Wisnia > (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) > The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.   I don't know that product, but since this thread popped back up and I was the OP, I'll update it.   I ended up throwing out the Bare crap and bought a Circuit Works silver paint pen. The traces I made to replace the missing traces on the plastic membrane keyboard were about an ohm for an inch IIRC. What I do remember is that I made several samples traces on a plastic sheet before committing to the repair, and a couple of them were *much* higher in resistance than they should be. Circuit Works recommended shaking the pen for a short time, but if you get one, shake the beejeesus out of it for 10 minutes or more. Short shake times result in high resistance.

isw <isw@witzend.com>: Nov 10 10:08PM -0800 In article <d26d452f-085b-4bc7-9fc1-cfee2b3e51f3@googlegroups.com>, > should be. Circuit Works recommended shaking the pen for a short time, but > if you get one, shake the beejeesus out of it for 10 minutes or more. Short > shake times result in high resistance.   Since the signaling currents in a keyboard scan matrix might very well be in the microamp range, a few k -- or a few dozen k -- simply won't make any difference at all. Except maybe for response time. Maybe.   Isaac

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 11 08:48AM On 10/11/2014 23:40, John-Del wrote: >> The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.   > I don't know that product, but since this thread popped back up and I was the OP, I'll update it.   > I ended up throwing out the Bare crap and bought a Circuit Works silver paint pen. The traces I made to replace the missing traces on the plastic membrane keyboard were about an ohm for an inch IIRC. What I do remember is that I made several samples traces on a plastic sheet before committing to the repair, and a couple of them were *much* higher in resistance than they should be. Circuit Works recommended shaking the pen for a short time, but if you get one, shake the beejeesus out of it for 10 minutes or more. Short shake times result in high resistance.   I hope you were aware that: You paint a patch of the paint, let it dry , and then score lines in it with a scalpel to make the "insulators"

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Nov 10 12:07PM -0800 You may also find drivers searching for the chip model that handles the device. Most drivers are designed around a specific chip+OS combination, not the specific laptop model. For example a laptop with an ATI video card will work with the AMD Catalyst drivers, and they will be more up to date than the ones provided in the recovery CD. The same applies for other manufacturers including Intel, look for the video card chipset in Intel website or Google. You can find the hardware vendor and device ID in Windows device manager.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 10 02:26PM -0800 On 11/10/2014, 12:07 PM, Jeroni Paul wrote: > You may also find drivers searching for the chip model that handles the device. Most drivers are designed around a specific chip+OS combination, not the specific laptop model. For example a laptop with an ATI video card will work with the AMD Catalyst drivers, and they will be more up to date than the ones provided in the recovery CD. The same applies for other manufacturers including Intel, look for the video card chipset in Intel website or Google. You can find the hardware vendor and device ID in Windows device manager.   Hi Jeroni,   Thanks, I did find a great resource:   http://forum.thinkpads.com/   And they have pretty much all the files I need available once you register.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

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