Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 21 updates in 7 topics

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Don Kuenz <garbage@crcomp.net>: Dec 01 04:25PM

Greetings,

This post is about thermal grease for processors. Many PC technicians
think highly of silver thermal grease. What do people here think about
it?

Does it make sense to use bulk thermal grease? Or is a single use
syringe the best way to go?

Thank you.

--

( \_/ )
(='-'=) Don Kuenz
(")_(")
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 01 08:07AM -0800

This is the site where I found a manual for the wireless headphones for Ms
Long-Russian-Name.
 
It appears to be legit. You might want to bookmark it..
 
http://freeservicemanuals.info/en/servicemanuals
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:40AM -0800

This is an "out of curiosity" question. I have multiple backups of this unit,
and //do not// intend to repair it. I just want to see if anyone has any
interesting insights.
 
The unit is a D-FJ75TR, one of Sony's last "deluxe" Discmans. I'd been using
it to listen to CDs in bed, and yesterday it stopped working correctly.
 
When I install the batteries, or plug it into the adapter, it immediately
starts to play -- and none of the controls work. I can't pause it, change the
track, set the volume, etc. Nor do any of the controls on the remote/tuner
module work. (Unplugging the remote doesn't fix the problem. And the control
lock button isn't jammed.)
 
The "obvious" answer is CMOS lockup, which I've seen on other products.
Yanking the power while the device is running sometimes cures this, but not in
this case.
 
I'm not trying to start an extended, overwrought discussion. I'm just
wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 
Thanks.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 30 06:47PM

On 30/11/2014 18:40, William Sommerwerck wrote:
 
> I'm not trying to start an extended, overwrought discussion. I'm just
> wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 
> Thanks.
 
stuck contact of a key?
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 02:29PM -0800

> Stuck contact of a key?
 
The obvious one would be the Play button (as the unit starts playing when I
put the batteries in).
 
I'll try holding down the Play button on a "good" unit, and see what happens.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 30 02:32PM -0800

Some models had a "lock" switch to keep random hits from affecting the play while one is jogging or something.
 
HAHAHA, Sony thought people in this country jog !
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Nov 30 10:51PM

"N_Cook" wrote in message news:m5fono$pdm$1@dont-email.me...
 
On 30/11/2014 18:40, William Sommerwerck wrote:
 
> I'm not trying to start an extended, overwrought discussion. I'm just
> wondering if anyone has any ideas.
 
> Thanks.
 
stuck contact of a key?
 
 
 
 
I thought so too.
 
 
Gareth.
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 03:04PM -0800

When the Play/Pause button is held down, a "good" unit misbehaves in exactly
the same way as the "bad" unit, whether or not the remote control is
installed.
 
The Play/Pause button isn't jammed, so it would seem the fault is somewhere in
the wiring.
 
I have the service manual. When I find it, I'll tear into the lid (which holds
the key pad). It couldn't hurt.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 01 02:18AM

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:m5g7op$nbp$1@dont-email.me...
> somewhere in the wiring.
 
> I have the service manual. When I find it, I'll tear into the lid (which
> holds the key pad). It couldn't hurt.
 
Assuming that it's one of the tactile 'dome' switches, it is very common for
these to 'collapse' and effectively fail short circuit. I know that you said
you were not looking to repair it, but it really is a very simple fix if you
can be bothered to take it apart.
 
Arfa
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Dec 01 04:24AM -0800

> you were not looking to repair it, but it really is a very simple fix if you
> can be bothered to take it apart.
 
> Arfa
 
He said it wasn't collapsed, although there's the possibility some liquid was spilled in the key matrix and is causing an unintended function command.
 
But I've seen a few of these over the years where the scan lines can be unsoldered at the micro for a test and the fault remains. Sometimes it's a bad micro caused by a static discharge through the control board.
"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Dec 01 02:49PM

"John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message
news:e4d5ecc5-4700-4852-a88d-126b2989cb1c@googlegroups.com...
 
> But I've seen a few of these over the years where the scan lines can be
> unsoldered at the micro for a test and the fault remains. Sometimes it's
> a bad micro caused by a static discharge through the control board.
 
I had a piano keyboard once that had lost some notes.
It turned out the scan IC scanned both the keys and the button/LED matrix
using part of the same bus. One LED was short circuited, which disabled one
line shared with the keys, taking out the whole bunch of notes.
 
 
 
Gareth.
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 01 08:01AM -0800

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:NdQew.43447$tz7.25356@fx43.am4...
 
> for these to 'collapse' and effectively fail short circuit. I know that you
> said you were not looking to repair it, but it really is a very simple fix
> if you can be bothered to take it apart.
 
It's not a question of "bothered". I have to find the service manual so I can
"rationally" remove the lid. (It's not obvious how it comes off.) Once that's
done, it will be a simple matter to unscrew the panel covering the switch pad.
 
Thanks for your encouragement. Now, if I can get some help with the Lux
amplifier I damaged yesterday... (There's always John Curl.)
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Dec 01 01:16AM -0800

David K. Bryant wrote:
 
> For your Tray 1 problem you need a RG5-2651 clutch.
> They're $29 at Printerworks.com
 
> --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
Hi David,
 
No, 40k is correct. It gets light use now. I acquired it used about 7 years
ago.
 
Regarding the clutch which I found at
http://www.printerworks.com/Catalogs/4K-Catalog/270_4KPaperFeed.html I was
wondering, is there one particular part in that assembly which causes the
failure?
 
Thanks for your reply.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Dec 01 02:27AM

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:63c28c7d-d0ab-4ddc-b583-4cedb486b481@googlegroups.com...
 
> BTW
 
> You can pop a CD on top of the platter and it looks like it belongs.
 
> .... Phil
 
In all my long bench years, I've seen just one of these, I think. I'm trying
hard to remember what was wrong with it. I have this feeling that it was an
open circuit head, but that might be a memory of a WEM Copycat ...
 
Arfa
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 01 08:32AM

On 01/12/2014 02:27, Arfa Daily wrote:
> it was an open circuit head, but that might be a memory of a WEM
> Copycat ...
 
> Arfa
 
The oddest one I came across was when I was making rather than repairing
electronic stuff. Ended up being thrown out but these days I would have
persisted.
I don't think it was a prototype as the lettering on the front was silk
screened and the , yes actual Nescafe coffee tin , inside and so not
visible to an owner, was painted black on the outside of the tin.
Inside was a leather wiper attached to a record deck cartridge or
something, an oil film around the inside and a motor to spin this wiper
in the tin around the curved surface. As I received it was minus the 3
or 4 valves, the motor seized and a number of missing wires. No info
found about it then or now. Only about 6x9x8 inches in size
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Dec 01 08:47AM

Googling around, it was much like these
http://gretschpages.com/forum/garage-sale/anybody-need-a-b5-wa-vibramate-or-two/43619/page1/
 
http://www.lakeviewmedia.com/music-gear/Telray-adineko/adineko.html
 
same lidded tin can but 1 or 2 more valve (bases anyway) , a couple more
front controls, no name on the front or anywhere
"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 30 12:06PM -0500

In article <m5fehi$fsd$1@dont-email.me>, grizzledgeezer@comcast.net
says...
> little later (on its own, without my running a scan). I requested a removal,
> and had to restart the computer. I then ran a full scan, and it seemed to be
> gone.
 
Did you ever figure out what exactly it was doing? You may have gotten
lucky before the damage was done or it may have already ran its course
or what ever it was meant to do in the first place and you may not have
what it was looking for.
 
I remember at one time my bank I do business with had a problem. One
day I got an Email from an unknown source showing my back balance and a
few other important things, indicating that I should log in to correct
some details of my. There was a link available for me to use and I
noticed that it didn't go to any site that was my bank.. So I used
my regular log in and there was no problem with my details but, the
information that was in my Email was spot on as to my accounts etc..
 
I quickly called them after several holds and pass me on to the next
person, I was asked to change my user name etc because apparently a vast
amount of customers that do on line stuff with their accounts were also
getting the same emails, so it appears that not me but the bank got
hacked and was able to view the customers accounts but not able to get
the access information to remotely log in.
 
Just something to think about how some businesses are naive about the
technology..
 
I work a lot coding on Windows and I can think of a half dozen ways off
the top of head how to elude the user.
 
Jamie
"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:27AM -0800

"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." wrote in message
news:MPG.2ee518775cc435c1989b50@news.eternal-september.org...
 
> Did you ever figure out what exactly it was doing?
 
No. I caught my mistake almost immediately after making it, and killed the
process. About an hour later, Kaspersky found the file and deleted it
 
I was careless. But I'dordered an item from Costco Photo, and this looked like
a status message. My mistake was not paying attention to the sender -- who was
in Italy.
 
It never hurts to be overly suspicious. This was the first time something got
through in over a decade. I have been warned.
 
Oh... handy trick... I was badly attacked back in 2004. The attack included
malware that reinstalled itself at each restart. It occurred to me that if I
changed the files' permissions to be executed or rewritten, a lot of problems
would be solved. And they were. You don't need to remove a file -- just keep
it from running or being replaced with a newer version.
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Nov 30 09:06PM

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message news:m5ct8q$99a$1@dont-email.me...
 
To make a long story short... I accidentally opened an e-mail attachment I
shouldn't have. (I had a "good" reason for doing so.) Wondering if its
executable was lurking anywhere, I ran Process Explorer -- and there it was.
Two clicks, and it was gone.
 
I will, of course, double-check the next time I restart.
 
http://download.cnet.com/Process-Explorer/3000-2094_4-10223605.html
 
 
 
 
I had a mighty scare today on my laptop.
On booting, everything I tried to do resulted in an error message. I
couldn't access msconfig, control panel, the Start/Stop button on the
taskbar, System Restore, nothing. Right clicking the Start Menu did
nothing.
Kept saying something was trying to erase a registry entry or something.
 
Googling on my old laptop showed that with Win8, you can no longer get into
safe mode by pressing F8 whilst booting, is has to be achieved via Windows
actually allowing you to do this, and mine wasn't allowing me to do anything
at all. Nightmare.
 
 
After a lot of perseverance, I finally discovered there is another instance
of the Power Button if you press the Windows flaggy button to reveal all the
"apps", a feature I never use. Clicking this Power Button whilst holding
Shift finally allowed me to access System Restore.
Which worked.
 
 
I don't know how this happened, I don't think I clicked any dodgy attachment
and I don't do any dodgy websites, but I have been caught out in the past,
and since learnt to be very suspicious of most things.
 
The first error message I got was "Windows Live Mail Calendar is corrupted",
and Live Mail refused to run. This quickly progressed to the registry
error message on everything I then tried to do.
 
 
 
 
 
Gareth.
"Maynard A. Philbrook Jr." <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Nov 30 08:21PM -0500

In article <m5fnht$l5r$1@dont-email.me>, grizzledgeezer@comcast.net
says...
> changed the files' permissions to be executed or rewritten, a lot of problems
> would be solved. And they were. You don't need to remove a file -- just keep
> it from running or being replaced with a newer version.
 
I got an E-mail the other day from who claim to be a company of Amazon,
"Audible.com", it was short and brief and the hot link they gave me spit
out a URL that had nothing at all to do with Amazon or anything to do
with any one selling something. It look more like some hooky location.
 
Jamie
Ian Malcolm <See.My.Sig.for.email@totally.invalid>: Nov 30 07:47PM

>> and on again.
 
> But something kills the 3.3V supply after the 30 seconds, of normal
> use , ie not manually switching off, just not tapping any keys.
That is a horse of an entirely different colour. You didn't originally
mention the 3.3V rail goes away on auto-shutdown.
 
> Surely if the uC goes into sleep mode and then no load, the VR would
> still sit there with 3.3V on the output and 5uV standby consumption.
Yes.
 
> output line and see if on no load it also goes to 0V.
> How normal is it to short a VR and its smoothing electro in normal
> manual switch off? regardless of any uC or whatever
 
I cant imagine any sane designer deliberatly shorting the rail
electronically for anything other than crowbar protection circuits.
Also, there's nothing in the regulator datasheet to indicate it will
latch off.
 
Shorting the rail via a mechanical power switch that also disconnects the
supply is a different matter. In addition to avoiding reset problems, it
prevents the MCU being powered up via its protection diodes if any inputs
are present when the power switch is off.
 
 
 
 
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL
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