sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Dec 11 10:39AM Well this has got me stumped.   I have here a Liteon HDD/DVD recorder (TV programs) that will not eject the disk that is inside it. There is power, the disc spins, and you can press eject and it tries to do so but fails. I can't remove the mech from the unit because the drawer front decal panel is too big to pull into the unit, and the front part of the chassis prevents the drive coming out of the front of the unit. So the drive will not go either backwards or forwards to enable its removal.   If I broke this decal panel off the tray it would, but I don't really want to do that.   How do you get these things out?   I have done this many a time with CD players, I either eject the drawers and remove the front panels, or you can usually undo the 4 screws holding the mech to the chassis, and it will move forward enough to enable the panel to be removed. But not this one, its tight against the front chassis.       Cheers,       Gareth.

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Dec 11 03:35AM -0800 This one like most computer based DVD units, should have a small pin-hole in the front. Use a paperclip to push the tab on the inside to open it up. The loading belt has probably dried up a bit and doesn't have enough grip to release the clamp from the disk.   Dan

Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Dec 11 06:26AM -0600 On Thu, 11 Dec 2014 03:35:41 -0800, dansabrservices wrote:   > open it up. The loading belt has probably dried up a bit and doesn't > have enough grip to release the clamp from the disk.   > Dan   Yes, the one I fitted most recently had the same restriction on the front panel. So there was a bent wire supplied with the drive specifically for releasing the drawer before fitting. Note the pressure may have to be quite firm to get the parts moving; it's not spring loaded!   Mike.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Dec 11 12:44PM "Mike" <news@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote in message news:VIqdnYbBufXwEBTJnZ2dnUVZ8rSdnZ2d@brightview.co.uk... > releasing the drawer before fitting. Note the pressure may have to be > quite firm to get the parts moving; it's not spring loaded!   > Mike.       No, this one has no pinhole.       Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Dec 11 12:46PM "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message news:OOqdne-knJkoDBTJnZ2dnUVZ8o6dnZ2d@bt.com...   > Gareth.   I should have mentioned, this is not the "pop open" type, it is the old style motor/rubber band/coggy type opening mechanism.       Gareth.

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Dec 11 04:54AM -0800 On Thursday, December 11, 2014 7:46:15 AM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:     > I should have mentioned, this is not the "pop open" type, it is the old > style motor/rubber band/coggy type opening mechanism.     Long shot and you probably tried this, but look for any unidentified holes in the bottom pan of the recorder under the drive. With some luck there may have been a manual opening slot in one of the gears that allow a small screwdriver to open the tray. It's possible the drive mfg provided this, but Liteon may not have added the access hole.   If you have to break off the front trim, it will go back nicely with contact cement or RTV.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Dec 11 01:08PM "John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message news:486e0ea4-0511-436e-9142-3c08cacaa9a2@googlegroups.com... On Thursday, December 11, 2014 7:46:15 AM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:     > I should have mentioned, this is not the "pop open" type, it is the old > style motor/rubber band/coggy type opening mechanism.     Long shot and you probably tried this, but look for any unidentified holes in the bottom pan of the recorder under the drive. With some luck there may have been a manual opening slot in one of the gears that allow a small screwdriver to open the tray. It's possible the drive mfg provided this, but Liteon may not have added the access hole.   If you have to break off the front trim, it will go back nicely with contact cement or RTV.         No holes that I can see.   I have managed to get the rear end of the metal shield free, the front screws are not accessible. I have then also managed to remove the top cover rear screws and I can see the disk inside if I bend up this cover. Sounds to me like the mech has jumped some cogs rather than the belt is not good enough. I don't think it is going to open whatever I do from this end.   This is the unit.   http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-anzeige/dvd-rekorder-liteon-lvw-5045b,-gebraucht/238176860-175-1108       Looks like I'll have to break the trim off.       Cheers,     Gareth.

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Dec 11 07:08AM -0800 Check the bottom plate. There should be an access hole there. All drives that I have seen have some type of access either from the front (pin hole) or the bottom. The bottom hole should expose the side of a gear. Samsung for exmple, has a "tool" that is used to turn the gear. Its really nothing other than another gear on a shaft that fits into the hole on the bottom chassis.   Post a picture of the bottom if you can.   Dan

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net>: Dec 11 04:26AM -0800 Most of you are probably familiar with acrylic cement. I used it for the first time recently, and thought it would be good to share my experiences with those who aren't familiar with it.   The spindle on my record-cleaning machine had broken off, and the repair kit included a tube of Weldon #16 acrylic cement. After drilling out the hole, I globbed the cement on the new spindle and stuck it in place. It stuck very well.   I have a box set of Sinatra recordings with a thick Plexiglas cover. It had been broken, and the acrylic cement fixed it nicely with no trouble. Which is no surprise, as Plexiglas is an acrylic.   What did surprise me was the battery cover on a Sony remote control. It had been split straight down the middle (vertically). As the cover is only 1/32" thick, I expected problems, and wasn't looking forward to fiddling with epoxy or Plas-T-Pair. Much to my surprise, the acrylic glue worked.

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Dec 10 05:33PM -0800 Is this what you want?   http://www.ermag.com/index.cfm?v_link=product_detail&v_key=325 http://www.ermag.com/index.cfm?v_link=product_detail&v_key=326   If you Google "inrush currebnnt limiter", you can also buy the key component form Digikey or Mouser for less than $5.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Dec 10 04:25PM -0800 My network is set up like this:   Charter cable modem -> my Netgear cable modem used as a wireless router -> Airlink secondary router used as a secondary wireless access point.   Things were so easy when I used my personal cable modem hooked up to Charter internet. Then Charter said I had to user their modem except it didn't have built in wireless capability. I managed to install my cable modem, Netgear CG814WG, as a wireless router. I also added a second wireless router, an Airlink 101. All was fine. I could access either wireless network from either wireless router and also access the settings from any computer in my system. Then one morning, the power supply for the cable modem quit. Unfortunately, not realizing it immediately and unable to figure out why it was nonresponsive, I hit the reset button. I waited for the lights to come back on but they didn't. Then I checked the power supply, nothing. I couldn't find another power supply and I was unable to easily open the adapter to repair it so I pulled it out of the system. The Airlink router became my main router and that's where things remained. Then I looked through my box of orphaned power supplies. I found an Epson power supply which I think fit one of my old zip drives. The voltage and current ratings matched the burned out supply so I decided to put the network back the way it was (see line 2 of this post).   Now for the part I can't figure out. If I plug the Netgear cable modem (this modem has no internet port, just four Ethernet ports) into the computer without hooking it up to the modem, like this:   Netgear wireless router/cable modem -->Computer   I can access the router's menu and settings. If I then plug the Ethernet cable from the Charter modem to my Netgear modem/router like this: Charter modem --> Netgear modem/router --> Computer it will work ok. Now I run ipconfig (Windows XP) and the ip address shown is my internet ip address, not the router ip address. Sometimes I'll restart the modem and then the correct router address will show up but then the internet connection will not work and then I can't access the router settings either. What the heck is going on here?   Thanks for your reply.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

Reinhard Zwirner <reinhard.zwirner@t-online.de>: Dec 10 10:24PM +0100 >> hints/tips on homepage http://www.tcp.co.uk/~diverse/ >> regards, Nigel   > www.radiomuseum.org/r/hameg_oscilloscope_hm103.html   Don't you think Nigel has got the schematic within the years since 1997?   SCNR   Reinhard

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.