Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 5 topics

chuck <chuck@deja.net>: Jan 12 09:23AM -0600

On Sat, 10 Jan 2015 00:48:38 -0000, "Arfa Daily"
>magazine many years ago. Just goes to show that great minds think alike, for
>you to have come up with it as well ! :-)
 
>Arfa
 
 
Yes I'm in the U.S. I used to work at Best Buy's corporate
headquarters. I was pretty sure that the motors turned at less than 3
volts but I couldn't remember the exact voltage. It was likely that,
if it didn't turn until 4 volts, the motor was defective. Chuck
"hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net" <hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net>: Jan 11 07:54PM -0800

I would put the leds in series. Don't worry about the lifetime, it far exceeds a few hundred holiday seasons. The leds should be good for 50,000 hours if you don't run them close to their max rated current. 10 hours per day x 30 days x many many years to get close to 50,000 hours lifetime.
mogulah@hotmail.com: Jan 12 06:40AM -0800

On Saturday, December 27, 2014 at 6:58:43 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> New leds and resistors fixed it completely.
 
> Naturally, diagnosis and repair took a fair bit of time (though leds and resistors are cheap) the owner got a substantial bill which she was quite grumpy about.
 
> Because the amp was purchased in the USA, there was no warranty cover here in Australia. The tech who unnecessarily replaced the output valves worked for the warranty agents here in Sydney and she had paid a big bill for that work too.
 
Can you blame people for wanting to just buy new?
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 11 07:08PM

> I was told that Aleenes has a fabric glue that works extremenly well. It is called "Fabric Fusion" and is permanent.
 
> In a pinch, I have used 3M 847 gasket adhesive which can be obtained in brown. This is a flexible rubberized gasket cement that I use for speaker surrounds with great success. If the tear is not readily visible when "fixed", I found that this handles the flexing of the cloth well too. Note that I used this method before I knew of the fabric glue.
 
> Dan
 
I tried fabric glue but being open weave it had no strength, so I mixed
some brown toner into hotmelt glue, slabbed out to about .5mm and cut
into 2x2mm sqares. Melted a square on .5mm thick pieces of PTFE to smear
on the backside of the hole, to reinforce and flatten the curled edge.
Used a variable temp soldering iron , run on 60% mains to lower the
lowest setting. Repeated around the full edge. Then at leasure remelted
patches in place.
Patched up repair, but aesthetically not much point with the grill cloth
flopping around. So warmed with hot air off with the T section top trim
and one side of the white piping , to stretch and refit the cloth. The
piping was nailed in , presumably before fully fitting the rexine
covering of the cab.I intend using a number of lengths of hooky Velcro
pinned to the cab covered by the T , to glue back a bit taught and then
refit both bits of trim.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 12 08:22AM

I think I've worked out how they get the diagonal red,green and yellow
threads into the weave.
Lay up the warp as usual with its shedding. Then an external frame along
the edges with a sync'd shedding. Manually running the threads in one
run over the groups of 3 tenters to cover the whole area. Passing the
shuttle through the normal shed and the diagonal shed
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 12 11:42AM

Makes a change from electronics farting about.
Next time I'll determine how much cloth is surplus from the stretching
process before salvaging the strip off the edge, so can get more than
the measly half-inch ,as about 1.5 inches wide was missing, and cutting
to the edge of the diamond threads would make for a more invisible mend.
Cutting back the spine of the gold T section trim helps reinsertion,
with prepared hotmelt film on the rexine side of the T. Hotmelt film
over the backing to take the stretched cloth, using velcro grabs.
Top pic as received, flash so false colour, does not show the bagginess
of the cloth, and upside down. Tektronix handles in the bottom image.
Middle pic, normal light, I could not tonally match the faded with the
unfaded dark brown of the salvaged strip, I tried
http://diverse.4mg.com/vox_ac30_cab.jpg
The VOX logo disappeared long ago also, but easily obtained from fleabuy
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 11 10:35AM -0800

>"I use it with the NASA approved wet wicking method, so it never goes
bad. "
 
I Googld that and got this :
 
http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~phylabs/bsc/PDFFiles/Soldered.pdf
 
Of ocurse for people to do it by the book there ust be a book so this makes sense. But DE-soldering ? they had to wirte a book on that ? I'd like to see it. Google failed me.
 
When I was a teenager they were trying to recruit me. I took a pre-ASVAB (sp I think...) and they told me I could tsst into an E something because of electronic abilities. I didn't, but one day I am riding with one of the recruiters for some reason and I get into the car I see a sign on the glovebox, dashboard whatever says "THIS VEHICLE SHALL NOT bE PLACED INTO MOTION UNESS ALL OCCUPANTS ARE WEARINGG SEAT BELTS". I asked the guy "What's that mean it won't satart or it won't go into gesr ?". Hw said "No, that's just they way they talk".
 
So concirvable in about 1977 I could have joined up, and then soon be court martialed for not wearing a seat belt. OK.
 
You know, thinking back, in 1977 or thereabouts, they were about geting out of Nam and all. If I joined I probably would have not had to worry about agent orange and shit. Maybe go to Germany or something.
 
As much as I thoroughly detest how this country's military is misused for the profiteers, it does help some people achieve a self discipline which is desirable. Would be better without the brainwashing but what would kids get on the street ? Oh, what I got. I got an education in all kinds of shit like recreational drugs, ganging around and all that goes with that.
 
I'm not making excuses for not being a little closer to perfect, I am so far it is ridiculous, and I think I am bettert han many but I can see I oculd have been better. And that might have been what would do it for me. Hell givem four years and if nothing else work for the post office.
 
Hear the one about the vet at the post office looking for a job ? Interviewer asks "You were in the military ?" guy says "Yes". He asks "Were you injured ?" guy says "Yes". "What happened ?". Apppicant says "Well there was an explosion and it blew my balls off". "You're hired, we start at nine in the morning, see you at ten". The new employees says "You just said we start at nine, why do I come in at ten ?".
 
"Well, for the first hour we stand around and scratch our balls, you can skip that".
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jan 11 06:31PM -0500

Mike wrote:
 
> > I use it with the NASA approved wet wicking method, so it never goes
> > bad.
 
> Is that explained on wicky-pedia?
 
 
Do you really need an explanation?
 
 
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jan 11 06:41PM -0500


> I Googld that and got this :
 
> http://socrates.berkeley.edu/~phylabs/bsc/PDFFiles/Soldered.pdf
 
> Of ocurse for people to do it by the book there ust be a book so this makes sense. But DE-soldering ? they had to wirte a book on that ? I'd like to see it. Google failed me.
 
 
You dip the end of the copper braid, into RMA liquid rosin flux just
enough to wet it. You can use either copper braid with or without dry
flux. Then you use it like you would the dry wick. The advantage is that
it works faster and with less heat transfer to the board. The other part
of the process is that when you trim away the used wick, you leave a
spot with solder that is about half the length of the braid's width.
This gives you a smaller spot to start the heat transfer, which also
reduces the time needed to do the job. Together, they greatly reduce
the damage to a PC board.
 
I've seen too many people use a spot every inch or so, then complain
that the wick has gone bad. The more you flex it, the more dry flux
turns to dust and is lost.
 
 
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 11 06:11PM -0600

On Sun, 11 Jan 2015 18:31:54 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
 
>> > bad.
 
>> Is that explained on wicky-pedia?
 
> Do you really need an explanation?
 
Did you really need a smiley?
 
Mike.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 11 06:34PM -0800

>" You dip the end of the copper br... ..."
 
Thanks. that clears up a little bit. the problem with wick drying out is that it is the flux or whatever they putin it drying out. the only other problem is when the braid is not fine enough, and really you don't need it angel hair fine.
 
The old guys used to tell me you don't need wick, just take the cord off a TV and strip it, twist it up a bit and dip it in some flux. they said it worked fine, but i never did it. Well I did try it couple of times but did not get it right. So Chemtronics took car eof me, for a price of course. I have never seen anything work bettert han Chemwick, but then I never did the flux dip thing.
 
 
Thing is, how much do you need. you saisd something like this might last you the rest of your life. Could. you are not using it to change flyback transformers. Alot of times on SMDs you only us a little eentsy piece, and more of it is damaged (defluxed) by the heat than youo actually used for the repair. And this is worse wiht the cheaop brands. Itt is also worse with Chemwick it it is felt out and all the whatever evaporates out of it. Just like you dry without havbing the stuff boil off of you, so does it.
 
BTW, I have a technique with it that I do not use the end. I curve it around the iron tip but oinly halfway through its width. this allows me to really smash it into a cvonnection. the wick is like almost 180 degrees around the tip, I put the connection to be desoldered INSIDE of that. I have found it to be very effective as well as kind to the circuit board.
 
Last job (yeah I am working again) not this one, boss ays I use more wivch than any other tech there. I sadi "Yeah, I seen their work". I had to follow one of them on a job and I saw out of like an 80 pin IC, like over ten pads were lifted.
 
Go ahead asshole and don't get me the righht wick, or make me use it "your way" and then you cna pay me twenty bucks an hour to fix the fucking cuircuit board that would not have been fucked up i=f I had what I need.
 
And no, the last couple places did not have a vat of flux.
 
Most companies do not want to buy shit. I had to threaten to burn the fuicing place down a coule of jobs ago to get them to buy an isolation transformer. i was making goo dmoney but that place was btuilt on a slab. I had to tell them that if I got shocked I was going to NOT file a workman's comp claim but instead get a Jewish lawyer and sue them because the shock caused a psychological condition that would permanently prevent me from working in my field.
 
It was there in two days.
 
Talk about hack techs out there, damn let's talk about the hack bosses who should be flipping fucking burgers.
 
they are out there.
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jan 11 10:22PM -0500


> Thanks. that clears up a little bit. the problem with wick drying out is that it is the flux or whatever they putin it drying out. the only other problem is when the braid is not fine enough, and really you don't need it angel hair fine.
 
> The old guys used to tell me you don't need wick, just take the cord off a TV and strip it, twist it up a bit and dip it in some flux. they said it worked fine, but i never did it. Well I did try it couple of times but did not get it right. So Chemtronics took car eof me, for a price of course. I have never seen anything work bettert han Chemwick, but then I never did the flux dip thing.
 
> Thing is, how much do you need. you saisd something like this might last you the rest of your life. Could. you are not using it to change flyback transformers.
 
 
I use a vacuum desoldering iron of transformers.
 
 
> Alot of times on SMDs you only us a little eentsy piece, and more of it is damaged (defluxed) by the heat than youo actually used for the repair. And this is worse wiht the cheaop brands. Itt is also worse with Chemwick it it is felt out and all the whatever evaporates out of it. Just like you dry without havbing the stuff boil off of you, so does it.
 
 
You don't have that problem, when used properly. I only pull out
about an inch from the spool. Even without liquid flux, it isn't flexed
enough to make it useless.
 

> BTW, I have a technique with it that I do not use the end. I curve it around the iron tip but oinly halfway through its width. this allows me to really smash it into a cvonnection. the wick is like almost 180 degrees around the tip, I put the connection to be desoldered INSIDE of that. I have found it to be very effective as well as kind to the circuit board.
 
 
Most of my work is RF and digital SMD. Your method would destroy the
boards and the parts.
 

> Last job (yeah I am working again) not this one, boss ays I use more wivch than any other tech there. I sadi "Yeah, I seen their work". I had to follow one of them on a job and I saw out of like an 80 pin IC, like over ten pads were lifted.
 
I rarely lifted any pads. Maybe one a month and that was usually when
some dumbass walked up to the workstation and hit it because I was
ignoring them until I finished.

> Go ahead asshole and don't get me the righht wick, or make me use it "your way" and then you can pay me twenty bucks an hour to fix the fucking cuircuit board that would not have been fucked up i=f I had what I need.
 
> And no, the last couple places did not have a vat of flux.
 
 
Vat? I bought a quart bottle of it almost 30 years ago for $7.50. It
was Kester 1544. I kept under an ounce in a squeeze bottle with a need
form a syringe, nd I had a tiny cup about the size of the cap on a
plunger on a syringe to di the braid into.
 

> Most companies do not want to buy shit. I had to threaten to burn the fuicing place down a coule of jobs ago to get them to buy an isolation transformer. i was making goo dmoney but that place was btuilt on a slab. I had to tell them that if I got shocked I was going to NOT file a workman's comp claim but instead get a Jewish lawyer and sue them because the shock caused a psychological condition that would permanently prevent me from working in my field.
 
 
Forget that. I would have called OSHA and had them put out of
business after they refused. My shop has concrete floors, but there are
3/4" rubber mats to stand on, and the steel workbenches are on casters.
 
 
> It was there in two days.
 
> Talk about hack techs out there, damn let's talk about the hack bosses who should be flipping fucking burgers.
 
 
They aren't even qualified to do that, unless they are flipping them
into the dumpster.
 
 
> they are out there.
 
 
So is the truth, if you have the time and the skills to find it. :)
 
--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jan 12 02:58AM

My son-in-law turned up yesterday looking very glum. His little 2 year-old
had kindly tried to recharge his iPhone for him - with the wrong type of
connector ... The pins in the charge dock connector were badly mangled. He
spent some time with my headband magnifier and a scalpel tip trying to
recover it. I eventually pried it gently from his hands, and told him it was
a lost cause, but that I would look into finding a YouTube vid to see if it
was easily replaceable. Turns out that the job is all screws - none of that
malarky with hot air guns and the like to get inside via screen removal. The
connector is mounted on a small PCB, along with the mic and some other bits
and bobs, There is a long flexiprint, and one of those 'click' connectors
that always feel like you are trying to force them on wrong ...
 
So, I went looking on Fleabay to see if this board was available, and at
what cost. There are scores of people offering them in fact, and how much ?
On average, 3 UKP- that's about $4.50. And that includes free first class
post with Royal Mail. At that price, it's hard to see how anyone in the
chain makes any money. Considering the cost of an iPhone, I would have
thought that anyone would have been willing to pay at least a tenner for
such a part ??
 
Arfa
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 5 topics"

Post a Comment