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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 16 10:35AM -0800 >> and try to keep the shaft as smooth as possible. i will use a teflon >> lube when reassembling.   > WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?   If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!   WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting, and the solvents in it evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating. Liquid Wrench is also a fast evaporating solvent with stuff in it to break oxides.   Not what you want left in a bearing I suspect!   John :-#(#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 16 03:15PM -0800 John Robertson wrote:     > > WD-40 or Liquid Wrench in the bearings or bushings?   > If you use either of these you much flush ALL the residue out!   > WD-40 is for protecting tools from rusting,   ** See:   http://www.wd40.com.au/wd-40/2000-uses     > and the solvents in it > evaporate leaving the rest to turn to a protective goo coating.     ** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.     .... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 16 05:27PM -0800 On 01/16/2015 3:15 PM, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** The residue of WD40 is simple mineral oil.   > .... Phil   Fair enough, Phil, you've drunk the WD-40 kool-aid.   My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to take apart to repair.   A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder' drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.   (ducking)   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jan 16 09:12PM -0500 John Robertson wrote: > take apart to repair.   > A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder' > drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.     http://www.wd40company.com/files/pdf/msds-wd494716385.pdf   -- Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 16 09:21PM -0800 John Robertson wrote:     > My experience with the residue of folks using WD-40 in arcade games is a > gooey residue which always gums up the works and is very difficult to > take apart to repair.     ** Sounds like "arcade games" contain delicate mechanisms that must have low or no contact friction in order to work properly - like most mechanical watches and clocks.   Such mechanisms need special low viscosity, low evaporation lubricants and cannot use mineral oil.   It says on the can " Frees Sticky Mechanisms" and it does so by dissolving any greases and oils that have hardened over time and with heat.   The shafts of small AC motors in turntables and tape recorders and fans sometimes jam tight because of this and a little WD40 gets them running again in seconds.     ... Phil

mogulah@hotmail.com: Jan 17 08:29AM -0800 On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 8:27:21 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > take apart to repair.   > A good oil, grease, or synthetic lube is always preferred to a 'wonder' > drug like WD in my books. I guess I'm the anti-WDhrist.   I can't see any other lub not gumming up the work too, though.

mogulah@hotmail.com: Jan 17 08:22AM -0800 On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 12:59:49 PM UTC-5, Cydrome Leader wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking: > 208 volt 3 phase, which I wish to extend into my space.   > There should be a A, B and C legs, but how is this order determined by > testing?   In testing you normally use black, red and blue for live low voltage and brown, orange and yellow for high voltage connections.   For low voltage, black fingernail polish or tape for 'A' connections, red for 'B' and blue for 'C'. Use green for Ground-only connections and white or Grey for neutral connections.   For high voltage, brown fingernail polish or tape for 'A' connections, orange for 'B' and yellow for 'C'. Green is still used for Ground-only connections and white or Grey for neutral connections.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 17 01:13PM Perhaps there is an error in the Woden/Vox code to date data that is out there in a book somewhere. The owner is certain he had this amp and was playing it for his 17th birthday in 1962 and that it was bought for him the year before , for 109 GBP. He remembers which shop and price but unfortunately no receipt/warranty paperwork survives

Leif Neland <leif@neland.dk>: Jan 16 06:52PM +0100 > the remote contgrol. The Apex AD-1500 needed a file loaded from a CD-ROM. I > also got a Coby from Walgreens for about $20 that could be programmed easily > with the remote.   A little off-topic regarding to duplication, but with the price of DVD-players, there is little gained for the content suppliers by using region codes.   I can get a DVD-player for the price of about 1½ premium DVD, so if my main DVD-player could only play region X, I'd just buy another to play region Y.   Leif   -- Je suis Charlie

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 16 11:11AM -0800 The only problem with that plan is the output format. There's something I don't know. Is HDMI universal ? In the old days you would get NTSC from a region 1 - the US. I think alot of Europe is region 2 which would be PAL I believe. Even the plugs would be different, in the US you would have composite fromn and RCA jack, in Europe it might be SCART. I have no idea about region 3. Perhaps the middle east. Not sure about China etc.   Th DVD itself has no format I beieve. It's just a few bytes at the beginning or whatever that disables certain DVD players. I can imagine the reasons for this are something we do not appreciate. One aspect might be royalties. this would allow them to gouge Americans rates for this material Europeans would refuse to pay. Another thing is politics, there could be different versions of movies for diferent cunrties.   The old diffrerence in format were cuaed by technology period, and is why NTSC is among the crappiest formats. I think only Russia's old system was worse, 330 lines or something like that. Both PAL and SECAM are superior to NTSC, but then they came out a bit later. I know PAL will not work well without a COMB filter and those used to be expensive. You didn't see them in NTSC sets until about the 1980s. They werre in VCRs though, but I don't know which is the chicken and which is the egg here. Was the COMB filter invented for the crosstalk reduction in VCRs or to improve the TV set itself ? I bet even wiki doesn't know that one.   Anyway, alot of our digital tuners won't work in Earope either. they use a different channel spacing for both AM and FM. I regular analog tuner would work, but their deemphasis is 50 uS rather than 75 in the US, and they use less overall modulation. they had to do that because fof the sidebands being closer together. I think at one tome they even had a slightly different phone preamp ?EQ curve. There used to be preamps with a selector "RIAA, EUR" some of them also had "WORN".   All of this is strictly because of slightly different decisions made about the technology. The DVD regions have no such excuse.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Jan 16 02:21PM -0500

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jan 16 12:05PM -0800 In article <728b0b20-8ceb-4678-b300-3c43197a7f25@googlegroups.com>,   >Th DVD itself has no format I beieve. It's just a few bytes at the >beginning or whatever that disables certain DVD players.   That's the commonest approach to region-locking - the disc simply has only one bit set in the region flag part of the data. A conforming DVD player is supposed to check the flags and only play content which matches its own region identifier.   There's a more complex approach which is possible... "RCE". A DVD can contain different programs, each of which is flagged for a specific region. A disc might contain a set of recordings flagged as "playable in region 1" and a different set flagged "playable in regions 2 through 6". A "Region free" DVD player might play the wrong one... and the "region 2 through 6" version would simply be a loop saying "You're in the wrong part of the world to play this disc." This approach isn't used very much these days, it sez on Wikipedia.   >the reasons for this are something we do not appreciate. One aspect >might be royalties. this would allow them to gouge Americans rates for >this material Europeans would refuse to pay.   That's a big part of it.   Controlling release dates is another (related) one. They might want to release a movie in the U.S. first (at premium prices), and then release overseas in smaller countries later (at lower prices, more acceptable in those markets).

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Jan 16 04:12PM -0800 On Friday, January 16, 2015 at 9:53:10 AM UTC-8, Leif Neland wrote: > so if my main DVD-player could only play region X, I'd just > buy another to play region Y.   > Leif   My experience is that the big name brands (Sony, Panasonic, etc.) generally are single-region players that cannot be made region-free. The cheap no-name brands that are sold by places like CVS or Walgreens are also single-region as they come out of the box, but they can often be made region-free without much difficulty (just do a Google search). So there usually is no cost penalty. Once converted, I have had no problems playing the signle-region DVDs I have gotten from Europe, Asia, and North America (this works fine on both my old analog TVs with RCA jacks and the modern flat-screen TVs with HDMI inputs).

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