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fransehv <frans@noemail.com>: Feb 11 04:16PM +0100 For our Repair Café I'm looking for the Service manual of JVC's AL-F353BK Turntable. Who can give me a hand Thanks in advance   --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. http://www.avast.com

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 10 06:10PM -0800 Hi,   anyone familiar with Fender guitar amps knows they all have *names* rather than model numbers - common practice with such amps from the beginning.   Fender like to use a very small palette of words in their naming conventions - reusing names and adding words like "Amp" to indicate model changes.   Commonly use names include Princeton, Twin, Concert, Bassman and Vibro while additional words like Reverb, Super and Amp indicate variations or completely different models.   Often, the only difference between models with quite different names is the speaker arrangement - ie using 1, 2, 4 or 6 drivers. This can get very confusing.   Recently, a young woman phoned saying she had a "Fender Deluxe".   Since there are a couple of dozen Fender models with "Deluxe" in the name, I could not picture the amp in question. So I asked how old it was and what it looked like and it turned out to be a recent one with single 12 inch speaker and controls on the top.   But I was still puzzled, cos there appears to be no schematic by that name that matches her amp.   The mystery was solved when I found stickers inside, one (applied up side down) reading "HRDLX 240V" and another near the speaker showing the valve line up with "Hot Rod Deluxe" written at the top.   So the amp IS a *Hot Rod Deluxe* - something it owner was not aware of. How come?   On the front there is a metal badge saying "Fender - Deluxe" and on the back is a chrome plate, with most of the ink rubbed off, that normally carries the full name. That ink has been missing as long as she has owned the amp.   FYI: The customer told me that since that was a blue glow coming from the output valves, new ones were needed to cure the horrible distortion she was hearing.   The reality was the amp need a new speaker, as the voice coil had partially detached from the cone.     .... Phil

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Feb 11 04:31AM -0800 On Tuesday, February 10, 2015 at 9:10:16 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   > On the front there is a metal badge saying "Fender - Deluxe" and on the back is a chrome plate, with most of the ink rubbed off, that normally carries the full name. That ink has been missing as long as she has owned the amp.   I've run across this problem in older consumer electronics. Often the print would be sun faded or even water damaged. Sometimes I'll find the crispy remains of the single sticker that would hold pertinent info. If there's enough of the label left, I'll tack it down to the chassis and cover it with heavy clear packing tape. I'll follow that up by hand with a Sharpie inside the cabinet as a fail-safe.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 10 10:21PM -0800 No, the comma tells the MODEM to pause before dialing the number. All the "*" codes tell the telco what to do. In fact there are a bunch of them.

Scotophor <a.j.franzman@verizon.net>: Feb 10 12:49PM -0800 > > It is common nowadays to see 4:3 programs broadcast in 16:9 with side blackbars, I hate it, it makes an inefficient use of the available resources and looks really ugly in a 4:3 display.   > 4:3 stretched to fill 16:9 makes everyone look fat.   > "Black Bars are stealing my screen real estate," is the absolute funniest Luddite response to technology today.   My dad apparently thinks he's being cheated somehow whenever a program doesn't fill the entire screen. He prefers to watch 1.33 content zoomed in (and cropped off top and bottom), rather than pillarboxed. When "cinemascope" movies wider than 1.78 are shown in original aspect (letterboxed), he zooms in to crop off the sides.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 10 03:38PM -0800 >"My dad apparently thinks he's being cheated somehow whenever a program doesn't >fill the entire screen"   He's right. They are actually cheating us out of pixels as well. The more wide the screen, the less pixels per diagonally measured inch. At any given diagonal measurement, a square has the most surface area.   That means that at the same resolution, a 19" monitor that is 4:3 has more pixels than a 16:9, and even that has more than a 20:9 or whatever those super wide nesr are now.   Less it more, ignoran... well you all know thow thaat one goes.

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Feb 10 03:52PM -0800 > 4:3 stretched to fill 16:9 makes everyone look fat.   > "Black Bars are stealing my screen real estate," is the absolute funniest Luddite response to technology today.     I think you did not understand what I was talking about. We are speaking about digital TV, here in europe the MPEG2 stream contains a 4:3 / 16:9 indicator that is meant to tell the decoder / TV set wheter the final picture aspect should be 4:3 or 16:9 regardless of the actual stream resolution. So the proper way to broadcast a 16:9 movie would be with the indicator set to 16:9 and the actual picture filling the entire available resolution, without black bars, even when the actual resolution of 720x576 is not 16:9. The decoder / player with a standard configuration will resize the picture to 16:9 aspect and it will display properly with all available resolution efficiently used. The opposite also holds true, a 4:3 program should be broadcast with the indicator set to 4:3 and no black bars.   What I hate is when they do not follow these simple basic rules and keep adding artificial black bars while incorrectly signaling the 4:3 / 16:9 indicator. The modern way is to signal always 16:9 and add side bars to 4:3 programs, this is incorrect and inefficient from a technological point of view as it loses resolution and does not allow the end user to choose its preferred way to adapt a 4:3 picture inside a 16:9 screen. While some people prefer side bars not everyone does, some people prefer to crop the picture and eliminate the side bars and others prefer to distort the aspect ratio and stretch it to fill the screen. Also people on 4:3 displays have no way to make it display properly.

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Feb 10 04:07PM -0800 > How do you Broadcast "Wide Stereo" AND "Mono Capable" at the same time?   > I'm pretty sure "Wide Stereo" is something that happens in the Receiver, not the Transmitter.   > My mileage may vary...     No, at least in the case I presented it was the broadcaster sending stereo wide sound. It was analog TV but with NICAM audio. Certainly the broadcaster had to be handling normal analog mono audio and stereo NICAM audio through different paths, applying the wide effect after mixing for mono. Of course switching the TV to the mono carrier did solve the issue but for some reason that TV set did not want to store the setting and after off-on it was in stereo again.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 10 06:15PM -0800 >"Of course switching the TV to the mono carrier did solve the issue but for some >reason that TV set did not want to store the setting and after off-on it was in >stereo again. "   If no other user settings are lost it was probably by design. Automatic. Shit like this is why I almost never buy anything new.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 10 03:15PM -0800 I'm a little green on keyboards so I don't know if this is a weird probem or what, I find it insteresting though.   When you play F sharp it also plays F. When you play A sharp it also plays A. When you play D it also plays D flat.   This is on all octavs both upper and lower, BUT not the pedals. Also on the lower board these keys sometimes repeat themselves. Also on the lower if you play the A sharp and the F sharp together they kinda appregriate. (sp)   Any ideas ? Since it is all octaves I am thinking maybe the micro or some little diopdes near it, or do these things have a chip in between the board and the micro to scan it ? And possibly the pedals are a different system so they are unaffected ? I think it only has like 14 keys or something like that down there.   I wouldn't mind knowoing more about the architecture of these things. (or do they call that topology now)I mean, some of these keboard, we are talking full 88 here, I can't believe how few wires go to the keyboard itse;f, especially when the thing is 24 note polyphonic.   In the old days I was in a keyboard and there was a wire for each key going to taps on a bank of 11 boards with a big coil on each one, adjustable of course for tuning. No master oscillator and divider chain.   Nother thing I wonder, working on these (relatively) cheap keyboards, am I going to find the innards of the really good ones similar ? Or are they simply a whole new ballgame.

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Feb 11 12:23AM wrote in message news:da0606f3-4ed1-4f63-862f-825a28a48596@googlegroups.com...   I'm a little green on keyboards so I don't know if this is a weird probem or what, I find it insteresting though.   When you play F sharp it also plays F. When you play A sharp it also plays A. When you play D it also plays D flat.   This is on all octavs both upper and lower, BUT not the pedals. Also on the lower board these keys sometimes repeat themselves. Also on the lower if you play the A sharp and the F sharp together they kinda appregriate. (sp)   Any ideas ? Since it is all octaves I am thinking maybe the micro or some little diopdes near it, or do these things have a chip in between the board and the micro to scan it ? And possibly the pedals are a different system so they are unaffected ? I think it only has like 14 keys or something like that down there.       Don't try and overcomplicate the problem. Think Occam's Razor. (Google that if you're not familiar)   The keyboard is scanned in rows and columns. So you have a 2D grid where each key will uniquely connect one row with one column (via a diode on each key)   What tends to happen, in the real world, is that stuff gets dropped down into the keys and onto the key contact PCB. Beer, sweat, other bodily fluids etc. Yuk. This often results in some of these rows and columns being shorted together. Which might explain why your F key also plays an F# etc.   Take out the keyboard contact PCB, and you will probably find it is full of shite and corroded to f@@k, and that one of those corrosions is causing a short between one of those row and column lines, thus the F and F# keys are shorted together. It doesn't even need to be a short, just enough to cause the scanning IC to decide 1 or 0 in error.       Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Feb 11 12:51AM I have only come across this once, but I did find a Korg keyboard with notes not triggering that I tracked down to a shorted LED on the front panel.   Turned out the cheapskates had used the keyboard scanning chip to also scan and power the LEDS and switches on the top panel.   One shorted front panel LED caused one of the Column/Row lines to also be partially shorted, thus causing many of the keys to malfunction.       Again think Occam's razor.       Gareth.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 10 06:11PM -0800 Thanks. I am familiar with Occam's - the simplest explanaton is usually right.   >"Take out the keyboard contact PCB, and you will probably find it is full of >shite and corroded to f@@k, and that one of those corrosions is causing a >short between one of those row and column lines"   Thing about that is it is all octaves. That means it has to be just a bit downstream. But the fact that the pedals don't do it would steer this away from the micro really, unless I find that to be totally separate.   So I am not looking so much under the keys, I assume I am looking more toward the board. Or am I wrong ? I mean, can some conductive gook just under one of them screw with all the octaves ?   And I gotta laught just a bit. They way you wrote that, it makes it sound like beer is a bodily fluid. LOL I know people like that.   I'll get to tearing into the thing next day or so. Let them get over their celebration because I got their Farfisa fixed. Another Italian ting nobody ever heard of.   But back to the subject, the fact that in each of these three faults the keys are right next to each other. That is telling me someting I just have to mull it over a bit. Whatever conductive crap or corrosion it has, has to be in certain positions.   Hmm, I used to have a Panasonic login. I'll have to see if I can find it and if it still works. But maybe, ...   OK, it must scan by octaves though both boards for this problem to be possible. I think it is about five octaves per so that means 11 lines for the notes and 10 for the octave selection. Maybe 20 wires. I need to look where they all come together.   I'll let you know.   Thanks.

Alan Meyer <ameyer2@yahoo.com>: Feb 10 06:06PM -0500 On 2/6/2014 10:43 AM, Danny D'Amico wrote: > something, because it *was* there from the beginning - but now it's > (suddenly) gone!   > But what free app do I download to get *back* that little microphone?   This happened to me on Android 4.4.2. I got the microphone back. I don't know if 4.2 is the same, but maybe it is. Try this:   Go to Settings->Language & Input and make sure Google Voice Typing is checked.   I know you've done that, but that's just half of what needs to be done.   Then touch Language, and select English. Without that, I think the program still won't give you the microphone because it has to know what language you're using before it can transcribe voice.   If you see an 'Auto' option for language, you can experiment with it, but I don't think it will work. I think you need to use 'English'.   If that works or fails, let us know.   I got voice typing back by a much more circuitous route but I think the above is all I really had to do.   The above advice came from a fellow name H Pham on the Yahoo Tracfone Users group. If this works, he's the guy who deserves the credit. If it doesn't work I'll tell you the terrible way I got it working, which involved downloading Google Translate.   One way or another, I'm pretty sure it will work and I think it very likely that it's a configuration problem, not a problem with needing to download software. I think my downloading Google Translate caused Google Translate to set the right configuration settings for me. I don't think the software itself was needed.   Alan

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 10 10:10AM -0800 On 2/10/2015 7:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:   > Can you make up a very small TC and push it into the ball grid of a > scrapper and monitor with different settings of heat /airflow/ > hotplate-temp ? Surely I can. I could also build a flux capacitor out of a tin can and some wings off a gnat.   The whole idea of asking a question is to leverage the work of others.   In particular, what air temperatures are people using successfully? That's the easiest parameter to control, but I'm open to options.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 10 10:43AM -0800 >> What temperature air?   > This might help.   > http://www.instructables.com/id/Toaster-Oven-Reflow-Soldering-BGA/   Nope. The web is full of instructions written by people who have no idea what they're doing with zero specificity for reproduction of their work. Just because ten people took a butane torch to their GPU doesn't mean I want to try it. There's one video that made a great production out of heating the WRONG chip.   The whole concept of reflowing without reballing is a crap shoot. I don't know a lot about it, that's why I'm asking questions, but, when your balls are fractured, you need ALL the balls melted at the same time on BOTH sides of the fracture and maybe some vibration to make the crack close so surface tension can mend the fracture.   Doing that without breaking something else is gonna require some precise temperature control.   The other end of the spectrum is videos showing jigging the board in a commercial reflow machine and pressing "go". Still no specificity on what temperatures are being measured or what the air temperature driving it might be.   I have a hot air gun with digital temperature readout with one degree resolution. They can't be measuring anything but the air temperature. What we want to know is the temperature of the workpiece. Given that air temperature is the only parameter it can control, the needed info is what AIR temperature should we be using as we measure the workpiece with other tools.   The thermal profiles are well known. It's the process of getting there that's not obvious.   I'm interested in the physics and thermodynamics of the process.

Leif Neland <leif@neland.dk>: Feb 10 11:13PM +0100 N_Cook skrev: >> hotplate-temp ?   > totally OT, bloody thunderbird, where did the italicised "airflow" come from > in my previous   Formatting. Slashes around something put something in /italics/ Asterisks around something makes something *bold* Underlines around something _underlines_ it.   Leif   -- Je suis Charlie

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