sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Feb 05 08:11AM >> ..... Phil   > On this side of the pond we have Cooper/BUSS fuses which say "Made in > the USA" in my stock, just got some from Digi-Key.   remember the nice metal and plastic boxes the 5 packs came in from Littlefuse?

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 05 04:22AM -0800 Cydrome Leader wrote:   .   > remember the nice metal and plastic boxes the 5 packs came in from > Littlefuse?     ** Errr - ain't that " LittelFuse ?   Also famous for the " Little Light" ?   ( small incandescent lamp mounted on a goose neck with a BNC plug on the end. )     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 05 04:30AM -0800 Phil Allison wrote:     > ** Errr - ain't that " LittelFuse ?   > Also famous for the " Little Light" ?     ** FFS - I did it too !!   "Littel Light" !!!!!!!!!!       .... Phil

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 05 08:35AM -0800 On Fri, 18 Oct 2013 12:21:09 +1100, "Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:   >** Fuses cost money and I don't like to see them blow at switch on.   I have a small collection of AC circuit breakers with clip leads soldered onto the terminals. As I recall, 1A, 3A, 5A, and 10A. I pick an appropriate value, clip onto the fuse terminals, and apply power. If the circuit breaker doesn't pop, I install the real fuse. I also use the variac trick, but only on my bench at home, as I don't have one in the office.   Note: Some thermal circuit breakers will decrease in value if tripped repeatedly. This is a safety feature as having the trip value increase would eventually make the circuit breaker not trip at all. Magnetic circuit breakers don't have this problem/feature.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Feb 04 11:58AM -0800 While the hints and arguments provided in these posts are correct I wonder if anyone did read my previous post which I think is relevant to all this. Mixing the two channels with a Y cord may produce a faint or no sound if wide stereo techniques are applied in the broadcast. I find that using only the left channel is safer.

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Feb 04 06:56PM -0500 On Wed, 4 Feb 2015 11:58:41 -0800 (PST), Jeroni Paul   >While the hints and arguments provided in these posts are correct I wonder if anyone did read my previous post which I think is relevant to all this. Mixing the two channels with a Y cord may produce a faint or no sound if wide stereo techniques are applied in the broadcast. I find that using only the left channel is safer.   I would think that if the problem you describe is widespread, we would be hearing about it a lot more. But, I have no doubt it happens at times. To the original poster, there is no risk in giving this suggestion a try. Most "main dialog" in today's show is in the center (ie, equal in both channels). So, the only thing you might miss by using only the left channel is an ocassional door closing sound effect that is only in the right channel. Music shows might be a problem, too. Try it and see if it works for you.

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Feb 05 08:53AM +0800 On 05/02/15 7:56 AM, Pat wrote: > using only the left channel is an ocassional door closing sound effect > that is only in the right channel. Music shows might be a problem, > too. Try it and see if it works for you.   2nd !!

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 04 06:02PM -0800 Jeroni Paul wrote:   > While the hints and arguments provided in these posts are correct I wonder if anyone did read my previous post which I think is relevant to all this. Mixing the two channels with a Y cord may produce a faint or no sound if wide stereo techniques are applied in the broadcast.     ** FM broadcasters are required to produce a mono compatible signal - or at least they were in the past. Studios use a "stereo modulation monitor" that shows when the signal lacks compatibility by metering the difference signal (L-R) and this must not be greater than either L or R.   True story:   A customer had made a commercial (on 1/4 inch tape) for use on FM radio and it was rejected on the grounds that it was "out of phase". I was asked to check it and found the tape seemed OK.   It took some effort to get through to the "engineer" who had made the judgement and he explained how he used such a meter reach his conclusion.   The recording had a bass guitar, piano and drum kit plus vocal, none of which were out of phase. However, the bass guitar had been panned to the left side, almost completely, which made the difference meter reading unusually high. Hence the mad conclusion the whole tape was "out of phase".   I told the customer to do a re-mix and pan the bass to the centre - problem solved.   The correct way is to pan a bass guitar to the left is to split the signal into low and high frequency bands, at say 150Hz, then pan the highs to the left and the lows to the centre.   This suits most broadcasters and would be essential if cutting an LP to avoid excessive vertical modulation.       ... Phil

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 07:19PM -0800 >"Very likely that if you feed the speaker from both + outputs (ie. do not >connect the - terminals just each + terminal) you will have the effect >"you want.   More likely smoke if you connect the +s togther. You can only do that to amps that asre designed for it. Some commercial amps are but I know of no consumer amps that are.   The problem is the amps won't share current well and one will be feeding the other. That is very bad because the outputs are passing current but the voltage across them is not dropping.   You can sum the channels with resistors, like 4 ohm at least. But don't cennoct them directly together.   Think also if it is a DC coupled amp and the offset is off say 250 mV and the DC damping factor is 10 @ 8 ohms load, that thing is likely to idle hot. That is on top of all the L-R material working into the emitter resistors which are probably 0.47 ohm.   Amps that you can parallel have special feedback, actually more accurate, so there is alot less imbalnce, both AC and DC. They also do not allow you to connect to or control the channels separately in that mode. Also, they aere built a hell of alot better than most consumer equipment.   I think most Crowns would be OK doing that, but look at what they cost.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 07:27PM -0800 >"Pick up a y-cable. Should be less than $5.00 "   Yes, and at that point just use one of the outputs. You could turn the balanc all the way to that side if you feel like it.   Better would be a Y cable witrh built in resistors. I have seen them for sale for this purpose but finding one now ?   The reason for that is summoing them directly can cause distortion when there is a high L-R content. It probsably won't destroy the output amps like an output stage, but alot of equipment is made to have a relatively low output impedance. This keeps the noise down from the cables and who knows what is near them. So if you get the actual adapter, use it at the amp end.   Personally, I can't stansd alot of TV audio. It is overdone, some things even if you turn it up you can't hear what they're saying because the sound Man seems to have a fetish for the sound of falling rain or some shit. Drowns everythng out, anf then a car explodes and it wakes the neighbors up.   Aggravating. Frikken TV which should be compressed has too much dynamic rang while music on FM is compressed to within a dB of its life.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 07:29PM -0800 >"Anybody want half of a Pioneer speaker pair? "   If it's an HPM-40 I think I had its mate.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 07:32PM -0800 > using only the left channel is an ocassional door closing sound effect > that is only in the right channel. Music shows might be a problem, > too. Try it and see if it works for you.   2nd !! "   Where are you, UK maybe ? I can tell you that is not how it is in the US. There is always alot of L-R material. I can't stand it really. I just don't watch it anymore

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 09:36PM -0800 >"A customer had made a commercial (on 1/4 inch tape) for use on FM radio and it >was rejected on the grounds that it was "out of phase". I was asked to check it >and found the tape seemed OK.   >It took some effort to get through to the "engineer" who had made the judgement >and he explained how he used such a meter reach his conclusion. "   I wonder how his meter would read a song like Beatles - Taxman, or Swinging Medallions - Double Shot Of My Baby's Love. Both are mixed with all vocals in one channel and all instrumentation in the other I think. If not, very close.   Actually I ould not use a meter, I would use a vectorscope. Not hard actually. In fact I considered an OP AMP to feed the difference to the horizontal and the sum to the vertical. (this would of course be the opposite of a record groove but should be more illustrative) Then the graticule will tell for sure - accurately.   But when some people make rules they have weird ass paramters to them. In the US you can look to the body of law governing the selling of a loaf of friggin bread, for months. It may be that they want special frequency weighting or some nonsense like that. Hell, they might require you to buy a certified meter and keep up on the calibration as well.   However, there is another fact in eixistence here, if I am putting out audio material, you think maybe I want it to be heard ? I mean really, your guy with the bass all in one channel, I will not say he is friggin ignorant. Really putting the material out of phase, errr POLARITY is proper for that, is kindaa ignorant. Sure it can draw attention but people listening to their car radio moving through areas with a bunch of multipath is going to be quite detrimental to the clarity of their message. Not everyone has five antennas on their cars. In fact, how many car FM tuners even have multiple frond ends anymore ? Lesse, Mazerati, Rollls Royce, yes, some others and also whatever aftermarket brands still exist now that they've combined the car radio with the heater and quite possibly the damn transmission these days.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 09:45PM -0800 And I agree about mixing the bass that way. Leave the low end in both channels. The listener will percieve the sound to be coming from the channel with the higher frequencies. '   Know what I am surprised I haven't seen. Phase shifting panning. I know it exists and thought by now it would be in pretty widespread use. All it takes is two MN3XXX something chips. The whole circuit to do it probably costs $10 on a mass production level. These mixers cost a ton of money. OK, that would be per channel but still. But that method would make sure the modulation in't all upset like having soething in one channel.   Another thing mixing bass too much to one side does is only gives the listener one woofer unless it is a sub sat system.   Anyway, the OP should just use a Y adapter into one channel of the amp. If some program comes on that doesn't sound right in mono maybe turn the balance on the TV to one side of the other.

"o.juhl" <o.juhl(snabela)nalnet.dk>: Feb 05 12:02AM +0100 Here is a link to: how to repair the lcd display on a Fluke 8020a: http://mrmodemhead.com/blog/fluke-8020a-lcd-replacement/   maybe you can use the description to replace your display.       Olav   "Bo-Lennart" <bo-lennart.karlsson@telia.com> skrev i en meddelelse news:bbd0f585-ca48-4afb-8bd3-f5b28a795e5c@googlegroups.com...

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 07:42PM -0800 I heard the "bleeding" LCDs were a problem with some Flukes. Might be hasrd to get.   I wonder just how hard it would be to adapt it to another display. Those did not have all that elaborate like a phone or a monitor. Each digit gots eight wires.   Since you'll never find where Fluke bought them or had them made you would have to deal with rewiring because the pinout is unlikely to be the same. In that case, really you could adapt it to LED. You owuld have to build a little buffer board because LEDs pull alot more current. But then again, I find them easier to read.   And beieve it or not, a friend of mine actually does have the part. The problem is tha tit is inside of a working meter. He might sell it but if you buy it, then you don't have to do anything, it works. I think he has another one but not sure of the model. That one could be made expendable because it has an offset problem. It had batteries and they leaked on the board so we beene cleaning it for the last few months. I forgot thre model so it might not fit anyway.   I'll email him if you want, see how much he wants for the one with the offset and get the model. It's too late to call right now.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Feb 04 11:24PM -0500

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 04 08:16PM -0800 On Friday, January 30, 2015 at 3:56:53 AM UTC-5, RAJESH KUMAR wrote: > hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop   The brand might help, but really you don't usually get schematics for computers. Fact is, the way they are, all you can do is change regulators and capacitors. Then some of them (in the words of a mobo manual I read years agho) "hang permanently when the errors introduced by dirty power corrupts the BIOS past being able to flash. If it won't boot it won't flash. One of mine locked the harddirve in error, but that model harddrive was very susceptable to that problem. (WD1600BEVT, don't buy one)   You would be better off posting the problem you're having with it.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.