sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

mroberds@att.net: Apr 11 09:54PM > device keys on the RS 15-100, and it claimed to learn them all fine. > However, it does not operate the JVC HD tuner at all. None of the > programmed buttons do anything.   Did you program the learning remote indoors? Was there a CFL or LED lamp in the vicinity?   The reason I ask is that CFLs and LED lamps tend to have switching power supplies, which sometimes run at frequencies close to the remote control's modulation frequency; the light output will change very slightly at a few dozen kHz. I have seen reports of certain CFLs interfering with remote controls; I haven't seen reports on LEDs doing the same, but LED lamps are not exactly common yet.   It could be that the learning remote "saw" some junk from a CFL or LED lamp, which it took to be the desired signal, and so it indicated "learned OK".   You might retry programming a few buttons either in the daytime - maybe with a piece of paper, rag, etc over the "business end" of both remotes to cut the ambient light - or at night, with only incandescent lamps (or a candle!) to light the room. If those buttons work, then reprogram the rest of them.   Matt Roberds

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Apr 12 12:53PM > The problem is that the learning remote does not seem to operate the device at > all.   Ok, let's say it's 100% an infared remote.   The problem here is, except for getting another learning remote and trying that, I can't see where else you can go with this problem. It's not like you can "fix" the RS remote to do anything differently.   Unrelated to this, back in the late 90's I bought a Yamaha surround sound receiver, high end (something 3090) and also had a Phillips touch screen remote (pronto) and that receiver was a bitch to program into the remote.   It said it learned all the key presses I wanted it to learn but fuck-all when you tried to use it. Besides some keys not working at all (similar to your problem), others did not do what they were supposed to do. Even like volume up, if you tapped the button it was fine, press and hold would raise it to a certain point, then it would decide to switch the input selected.   The on/off had a direct on, a direct off and "toggle". That too, the toggle was fine to use but the directs for on and off was a crap shoot.   What I'm getting at, being the remote was 100% with various tv's, dvd players, vhs machine, laserdisc players and just had a headache with the Yamaha, there really is no other fault besides it.   The OEM remote for the Yamaha had like 105 different functions, I'm guess they used some creative coding for all that to fit.   Similar to your HD tuner, maybe the idea of IR having a problem in such a place as a car, the company used some creative coding for it to work where it doesn't follow the norm for remotes. I know that back in the 80's there was supposed to be some standardization, preamble with a max of 16 bits, padded zeroes at the end or beginning that all companies were supposed to follow.   Was just to sort things out so the vcr remote didn't do anything to the tv or the dvd remote turn on your microwave or something.   My point is, maybe since it was for automotive use, they didn't have to follow the consumer guidelines for household products, figuring it would be unlikely to have two IR devices in a car and just came up with a IR pattern that worked in such a harsh environment.   Like I said at the beginning, the tie breaker is just get your hands on another learning remote and see if it can learn anything. If not, what you want to do is just not going to be done. If it does work, it's the RS remote but then you are where you are now, it's just not going to work and there isn't anything to do about it except replace it.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 12 09:16AM -0700 On Thu, 9 Apr 2015 07:54:48 -0700, "Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:   >I did the digital camera test, and do see a white light through the camera when >the buttons are pushed. So, again, I think it is IR.   OK, it's IR.   Do you have an oscilloscope? Connect an IR photodiode or red LED to the scope, point the remote at the diode, and watch the waveform produced by the remote control. Then, compare the waveforms and timing between the original remote, and the Radio Shack learning remote.   Also check that the carrier frequencies are the same. I think the usual is 38 KHz, but there are other frequencies in use: <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Consumer_IR#Technical_information> If the two remotes are on different carrier frequencies, there's your problem.   Note: I would normally suggest you use a PC based oscilloscope, but unless you have a quality 96KHz or 192KHz sound card, you're not going to see anything with the typical 44KHz card. For software, I suggest: <http://www.sillanumsoft.org/prod01.htm>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Apr 11 08:08PM -0700 Testing polarity is easy. Wire the secondaries in series. You will either get the sum or difference. Identical windings will be zero. Wire them to get the sum. You now know the phasing.   Two identical secondaries can be paralleled.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Apr 12 12:51PM On Sat, 11 Apr 2015 20:08:22 -0700, Ron D. wrote:   > either get the sum or difference. Identical windings will be zero. > Wire them to get the sum. You now know the phasing.   > Two identical secondaries can be paralleled.   You talk about primary and secondary but there are no such markings on the trannies. I guess given the 1:1 windings ratio the sec/prim aspect simply doesn't matter?

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 12 09:09AM -0700 Actually in most cases it does matter. For one there will be loss, so that will be copensated. Also per a discussion over in SED a while back, there is soe other differennce between primary and secondary that has to do with the flux or something.   But it doesn't ALWAYS matter. One way to tell would be to try it both ways and see which way works better, like less current drain with no load or higher output voltage. Invariably, the wrong way won't work as well some how.

Marv <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1011@example.com>: Apr 12 02:37PM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/battery-replacement-sony-mdr-if5-headphones-125998-.htm , Marv wrote: > grizzledgeezer wrote:   > Have you opened the headphones to confirm or deny the size of the > batteries?   I don't know how to open the headphone to find the battery

William Beaty <billb@eskimo.com>: Apr 12 01:25AM -0700 Repaired a W185 Branson Sonifier's transducer head, the cell-disruptor's "converter" with the piezo disk stack   TYPICAL FAILURE:   The meter on the power unit shows power, but apparently with no ultrasonic output (no squealy noises, no effervescing from degassing effect in water.)   More info:   http://staff.washington.edu/wbeaty/chem_branson.html   I've now repaired more than one of these things. Typical failure: the main steel "horn" gets rotated while replacing the narrow tips, and it tears the internal connections right off the main piezo transducer. If it didn't pull the solder-tinned tabs off the piezo stack itself, then it's possible to get in there with a long soldering iron and re-attach.   Note that it usually has two piezo disks in a stack, with the "hot" lead connected to the middle electrode in the stack, and the outer piezo electrodes going to ground.   First verify that the power unit is actually working. Hold a scope probe a half-inch away from the transducer cable (or perhaps unplug the cable and hold the probe near the connector.) It's an unshielded high-voltage signal, so it's easy to pick up a 100mV signal through the air. Turn the power knob down, turn on the power switch and timer, and you should get a ~20KHz square wave. The power knob controls the amplitude. IF NO OSCILLOSCOPE AVAILABLE, at least open up the power supply and verify that the light bulbs (load resistance) will glow when the power knob is briefly turned to max. Also, the large electrolytic capacitor should have 24VDC on it with power set to minimum and no transducer connected. This voltage rises to 165VDC for max. power-knob setting.   Branson "Sonifier" cell disruptor model 185, W-185D For 185 21KHz...   Transducer is "Ultrasonic Converter" model-L, a CL40194A (Four screws under label, plus one screw for phenolic terminal strip) For W-200P Sonifier, converter "Model L" CL40443A   (controls: power, timer, duty cycle, pulse/cont switch. The hidden thumbwheel "mystery knob" is a variable inductor, tunes from 19.5KHz to 20.5KHz (tweek the output for max effervescing from piezo head into water.)   "Model L" converter heads: CL40433A (For the W200 power unit) CL40194A (For the W185 power unit)   USE THE CORRECT WRENCH to replace tips: Adjustable pin-spanner: 3/16" pin, range 3/4" - 2" (Williams No. O-471A about $30 each) Two wrenches, or one wrench and a vise. Don't let the steel horn rotate in the cylindrical housing.

William Beaty <billb@eskimo.com>: Apr 12 01:03AM -0700 On Friday, April 3, 2015 at 10:08:56 PM UTC-7, Tom Miller wrote:   > Female > http://www.newark.com/cinch/s-302h-ab/plug-socket-connector-socket-2/dp/12M1388   > HTH   First see if there's any AC or DC voltage on those pins. Then see if there's any low-ohms resistance (like a loudspeaker or amp transformer connected somewhere.) It might connect to a DIY intercom system.   Could even be telephone. Back before mid-1970s, only the rich had telephone connectors, so people might be tempted to install their own, so they could carry a landline phone all over the house and plug it into their connectors.     As others point out, could be a custom loudspeaker installation so one main amplifier can send music to many rooms.

mroberds@att.net: Apr 11 10:04PM > I got no output on the right channel, or B or whatever. It is not in > protection. The readings look the same as the other channel.   Disclaimer: I don't do this for a living.   I would look at those normal/bridging and stereo/parallel-mono switches, as well as the level pots for the inputs. If there is an op-amp (to bring a low input up) or maybe a resistor divider (to bring a high input down) on that input board, check that too. A problem on the input board might result in nothing getting to the power stages.   Matt Roberds

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 11 09:19PM -0700 > >"** That is a USA made amplifier - not Pioneer.   > >FYI: Asian electronic gear has metric thread bolts and I but that POS has >Yankee ones. "   > How could you tell that from the picures ?   ** ROTFL !!   I can tell it's a USA made from the pics - lotsa clues that you see only in US made amps.   CONFIRMATION can be had by looking at the threads on the bolts, US threads = US made.     ... Phil

Ivan Vegvary <ivanvegvary@gmail.com>: Apr 11 01:19PM -0700 Just picked up a Zenith Royal 2000 (1961) for free at a garage sale. Downloaded Photofact from web site. I'm sort of a newbie at this. Will probably need to replace electrolytics. Have working Heathkit (1Mz) oscilloscope and DMM's. What is the least expensive way (equipment) to inject a signal (Rf, If, etc.) into this unit in case cap replacement is not enough. Don't mind spending a few bucks. Also, is an SER meter worth getting, or, simply replace all caps?   Thank you, Ivan Vegvary

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 11 06:07PM -0400 "Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message news:2ff4b805-88ef-4146-b2b5-9701b1a27a39@googlegroups.com... > Don't mind spending a few bucks. > Also, is an SER meter worth getting, or, simply replace all caps?   > Thank you, Ivan Vegvary   You might look on ebay for some of the old signal generators. There are also some signal generators and some are in kit form from China called DDS.   The simpliest way I know of is something I used a long time ago. It was something I built out of parts I had from a magazine. It was just a multivibrator operating at some audio frequency ,but it had harmonics way up into the RF range. There was also some comercial versions of it. I think it only used 2 transistors a few resistors and capacitors. Like this ebay number. You start at the audio stage and work to the rf area. I usually put it on the volume control pot first. That seperated most of the audio stages from the RF section. One of the beter ways to trouble shoot equipment is to do the half way method. Start about half way through the circuit and when you loose or gain the signal, go half way to the last or next section.       251121615025

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.