sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

jaugustine@verizon.net: Apr 07 01:52PM ><http://www.ebay.ie/itm/New-44-PIN-IDE-2-5-Hard-Drive-Cable-Adapter-Male-to-Female-5cm-Amiga-Laptop-/281426634750?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_205&hash=item418655a7fe> ><http://www.iec.net/l1354.html> >etc... etc... etc...   Hi Jeff,   UPDATE:   Thanks to you, I just ordered the cable from notebookcables....   Regards, John

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 07 10:57AM -0700 > I thought about a gender changer until I noticed that the "key" >(blank spot, no pin connector) position was not in the center.   > John   What I've done in the distant past was find a 44 pin header like this: <http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/cablesonline_2268_133639889> and just cram it into one of the connectors. If there's a keying pin, I just remove it from the header. If the header is keyed, and the missing pin ends up in the wrong slot, I just heat the connector, and move the pin.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 07 01:26PM -0700 On Tuesday, April 7, 2015 at 10:57:47 AM UTC-7, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/cablesonline_2268_133639889> > and just cram it into one of the connectors. If there's a keying pin, > I just remove it from the header.   I think the point here, is that the header is now a mirror image of the mating connector that is required. There has to be an inversion of the sense of the connector, i.e. the header has to stick through the back of the connector before engaging the female sockets, or it isn't a compatible mate to the cable in the extension-cable sense.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 07 06:35PM -0700 On Tue, 7 Apr 2015 13:26:18 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:   >sense of the connector, i.e. the header has to stick through the back of the >connector before engaging the female sockets, or it isn't a compatible >mate to the cable in the extension-cable sense.   Sure, but the header in the above URL, before a keying pin is removed, is symmetrical and will both fit in any derangement. If a keying pin is needed, just extract the pin from the header. The header shown is simply crammed into a common F-F ribbon cable, turning it into an extension cable.   I've done this successfully a few times when I needed an HD or FD extension cable in an old monster tower case where the typical PC ribbon cables are usually too short. The only headache was that the header pins were slightly short, so I had to move the black plastic base to the approximate middle of the pins.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

JW <none@dev.null>: Apr 08 08:28AM -0400 On Tue, 07 Apr 2015 18:35:06 -0700 Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> >ribbon cables are usually too short. The only headache was that the >header pins were slightly short, so I had to move the black plastic >base to the approximate middle of the pins.   Gotta call BS on this. That will connect pin 1 of the first cable to pin 2 of the connecting cable. Don't see how that could ever work.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 08 09:47AM -0700 >>base to the approximate middle of the pins.   >Gotta call BS on this. That will connect pin 1 of the first cable to pin 2 >of the connecting cable. Don't see how that could ever work.   Argh. Y'er right. Three cables and two sets of headers will work. However, that's not what I did when I built the extensions. I'm on vacation this week, but will dig into the box of ribbon cable junk next week and see what I find.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

bubba@bubba.com: Apr 08 07:16AM -0400 >It's certainly not uncommon to come across sites with "boards" that are >actually access to usenet, but they don't necessarily say it's usenet.   > Michael   I think I've seen 4 newsgroups that are stolen by various pages. One is alt.home.repair by homeowners something. Also soc.culture.jewish.moderated Another group I can't remember. And this group.   None give attribution iirc.

JW <none@dev.null>: Apr 08 08:36AM -0400 On Wed, 08 Apr 2015 07:16:19 -0400 bubba@bubba.com wrote in Message id: >Another group I can't remember. >And this group.   >None give attribution iirc.   Not only that, but they refer to *us* as the guests!

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 08 07:53AM -0700 On 04/08/2015 5:36 AM, JW wrote: >> And this group.   >> None give attribution iirc.   > Not only that, but they refer to *us* as the guests!   Perhaps we should have in our signatures - Posted by Usenet - or similar and let the curious figure it out...   John :-#)#   I'll change mine to: -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Apr 07 01:44PM -0700 >usually bakelite, "Start" or "Stop" engraved with paint filled in the >engraving of the letters.   >what's the technique for renewing the painted-in lettering?   Check out "Lacquer-Stik". It's a solid-paint crayon, designed to brighten up engraved or stamped lines.   http://www.markal.com/solid-paint-markers/lacquer-stik/   I've used it to renew the engraved markings in a plastic-body slide rule.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 07 06:56PM -0700 >usually bakelite, "Start" or "Stop" engraved with paint filled in the >engraving of the letters.   >what's the technique for renewing the painted-in lettering?   Renewing means new paint. Clean out as much of the old paint as possible with a dental pick and brush. Polish the bakelite surface BEFORE re-painting. Make sure there's no grease, wax, sweat, or filth in the engraved depressions. Slop on some enamel model paint and quickly wipe the knob clean. If you make a mess, clean the knob with solvent and try again. The reason you want to polish the knob first is that if there are any cuts, gouges, or grooves in the knob surface, the paint will also fill them.   If you don't want to use paint, I've found the white "correction fluid" works fairly well if the engraving is reasonably deep. If it somehow wears off, just slop some more on. I use this for radios where I don't want to ruin the resale value by changing the appearance. <https://www.google.com/search?q=correction+fluid&tbm=isch>   Note: I'm partial to glow in the dark acrylic phosphorescent paint for pointers: <http://glowinc.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=2>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 07 12:40PM -0700 >"but are you sure the >remote for the radio is actually an infared and not rf or bluetooth or >something else? "   Good point. Very good point. wouild it seem logical that someone wants to control their car stereo from outside the car ? that would make infrared a bad choice. And you know they have those competitions. I mean they load the car up with 8 kW of power and more woofers than a Genesis concert, but might still hook to the factory head umit for the source.   You know, "BOOM MUFUKAS BOOM MUFUKAS BOOM MUFUKAS".   Anyway, I think it very possible it is RF for that reason. Like the alar thing or remote start. Infrared would not be the best choice for them either.   Which brings us to finding an RF universal remote. Good luck.

"Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Apr 07 04:59PM -0700 > alar thing or remote start. Infrared would not be the best choice for > them either.   > Which brings us to finding an RF universal remote. Good luck.   The remote clearly has a LED on the end, and the LED does not show visable light when operated. So I'm pretty sure it's IR

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 07 06:19PM -0700 On Mon, 6 Apr 2015 08:33:45 -0700, "Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:   >It doesn't learn at anything over 2". One of the reasons I'd like to get this >working is that the "car" remote for this unit doesn't work more than 2 feet >from the unit.   The data sheet at: <http://support.jvc.com/consumer/product.jsp?modelId=MODL028210&pathId=149&page=2&archive=true> says "Includes wireless Remote control..." which generally means RF remote control. I don't think it's IR, but it's possible.   Find a digital camera and aim it at the remote. If you can see the IR LED flash when a button is pushed, it's IR. If not, it's RF. <http://www.instructables.com/id/A-FREE-way-to-check-infrared-remote-controls/>   According to the manual, the remote is an RM-RK71: <http://resources.jvc.com/Resources/00/01/16/MA370ien.pdf> but there's no info on whether it's IR or RF.   In my very limited experience, IR remotes are not common in vehicles because of the problems aligning the remote emitter with the radio IR sensor, problems with solar overload, and potential driver distraction trying to orient the remote. RF remotes do not have this problem.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 07 05:07PM -0700 I find this quite ionic, but in a positive way.

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.