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isw <isw@witzend.com>: Jun 05 09:49AM -0700 In article <eaa92ec0-0f8d-48f4-9e43-519966b9a790@googlegroups.com>,   > > > ** Where you found it is a big clue.   > > Came with the meter -- both from eBay.   > ** That's a big clue.   To what?     > > But how can the meter part tell me what the thermocouple > > materials are, if I'm not sure about the calibration of the adapter?   > ** What does it read at room temp or when immersed in boiling water ?   Dead nuts at 100C, about 3-4 C high in a water-ice slurry.   From what I read, it would be easy to use, say, a type J t-couple and do a two point calibration that would seem OK (there are two pots in the meter) but other temperatures would be incorrect, and the cold-junction compensation would be wrong.   And that's why I'm trying to find out what the colors mean.   Isaac

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 05 07:52PM -0700 isw wrote:     > > > Came with the meter -- both from eBay.   > > ** That's a big clue.   > To what?     ** That the two items are matched.       > meter) but other temperatures would be incorrect, and the cold-junction > compensation would be wrong.   > And that's why I'm trying to find out what the colors mean.     ** If the negative wire is slightly magnetic, you have a type K made with Nickel Aluminium alloy.   Type Js have a strongly magnetic iron positive wire.     .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 05 07:35PM -0700 Gareth Magennis wrote:     > The Cathode is grounded by a 100K resistor. Input Grid resistor is 220K. > The schematic shows the Cathode voltage to be 113v, where I measured the out > of spec 207v.     ** What a crappy way get grid bias with 300V across a 10Mohm resistor = heaps of resistor voltage noise. The usual and better way is to add about 1.5kohms in series with the cathode resistor and then a 1Mohm back to the grid from point where they join. The 1Mohm then has no voltage across it and is "bootstrapped" by the cathode signal giving very high input impedance.   > Turns out that in the amp I have, BOTH these resistors are 10M. > Maybe the production machinery was misloaded with the wrong value resistor.   ** Boogie's PCBs all look hand loaded to me.     ... Phil

Brian Gregory <bvdvgvrvevgvovrvy@gmail.com>: Jun 06 12:02AM +0100 On 26/03/2015 15:51, DaveC wrote:   > If not, where to get drivers for OS X?   > Thanks, > Dave   https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=fake+FTDI+chips&num=100&newwindow=1&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=7SlyVdi4PMet7Ab0toCQBA&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAg&biw=1466&bih=812#imgrc=tuuKArYj7zFk-M%253A%3BJMB8rTb_e9YURM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fi.ytimg.com%252Fvi%252FSPdSKT6KdF8%252Fhqdefault.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fhackaday.com%252F2014%252F10%252F22%252Fwatch-that-windows-update-ftdi-drivers-are-killing-fake-chips%252F%3B480%3B360   --   Brian Gregory (in the UK). To email me please remove all the letter vee from my email address.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jun 05 12:58PM -0400 On Fri, 5 Jun 2015 06:54:57 +0000 (UTC), Andre Majorel >> Maybe neither is close enough to 1/8" = 0.125".   >Contrary to popular belief in the US, there's really no such >thing as a 1/8" jack.   Believe you me, I've wondered about this, why there would be two sizes so close together, and how come I never come across plugs that don't fit jacks.   > The common sizes are >- subminiature jack 2.5 mm, >- mini-jack 3.5 mm,   So since I have stereo headphones with a 2.5mm plug, and an adapter that successfully converts that to 3.5 mm, one or the other plug should fit without wobbling and I'll eitther get one channel in one ear or the same channel in both ears, right? I think I've done that before without involving an airplane.   So I'm in good shape!     >> I have a bunch of other adapters. And other earphones. What size >> plugs into computers?   >3.5 mm. Erroneously called 1/8" in some not-yet-metricated   Well, I'm not metricated myself. I'm probably anti-metrical, but if that's how big it is, that's how big it is. It may be all European and communist and all that to use metric, but it's worse to lie about the size. So it should be called 3.5mm.   That Lebanese Radio Shack page unabashedly says 1/8". I thught they used metric in Lebanon.   The Amazon page avoids using any dimensions, only says Airline and Airplane, and has a bunch of competitors at the bottom of the page, but the distance from one plug to the other is fixed. Might be better off with the Lebanese one, which has two plugs on separate 2" cords   I ordered one from Monoprice last night, only 80 cents plus 2.25 shipping (and I added something else I needed to the order) but I forgot that I'm leaving early Friday, not Friday night, so it probably won't get to me in time.     >countries, even though 1/8" would be 3.175 mm.   Thanks.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jun 05 07:44PM +0100 "micky" wrote in message news:qh82napj3334vheoaobkgk76qnqf90e8ss@4ax.com...   I didn't start working on this soon enough to buy the proper airplane adapter for sound, like http://www.amazon.com/AIRPLANE-HEADPHONES-ADAPTER-AIRLINE-EARPHONE/dp/B002Q3II30 or http://radioshacklb.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1345 charge 5500 LBP Lebanon Pounds!! Not enough time to ship from Lebanon.   Office Depot used to have this but doesn't anymore.   But can't I just plug my 2.5 or 3.5 mm stereo plug in the monaural jack and get sound in one ear? One ear is good enough for me   2.5 mm = 0.1" 3.5 mm = 7/5 x 0.1" =0.14" inches, Maybe neither is close enough to 1/8" = 0.125".   I have a bunch of other adapters. And other earphones. What size plugs into computers?   I fly rarely and the last time I think the earphones were just plastic tubes.                 Blimey, one of these days you North Americans are going to have to wake up to the fact that the use of "Fractions of Inches" should have died last century.   This is a classic case in point.     Gareth.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 05 07:23PM +0100 I expect to see that VDE compliance triangle on mains rated components only

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