- Newbie Question: Filing Down Component Leads - 1 Update
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 19 08:23AM -0700 On Fri, 19 Jun 2015 05:46:13 -0700 (PDT), Matthew Connor >Good morning, Jeff! Thank you so much for your insight. >My counter is a Lionel CD V-700 Model 6b, manufacture date 1962. That's the same as what I have. Watch out for leaky D cell batteries. I nearly destroyed mine when Duracell's leaked. >the counter was probably designed to survive a nuclear attack." >So I'm not quite sure that I'm understanding if what I did was >bad or not. I would say it was a bad thing to tear it apart. You didn't mention if it was working before you attacked, so I question whether any of the work you've done was worthwhile or productive. If it was dirty, just clean the board. There's no reason to clean the component leads, or make it pretty unless you're installing a clear case and using it for show and tell. The detrimental parts are: 1. The phenolic PCB is very sensitive to handling, soldering, and "cleaning". You could easily have ruined it. 2. The coatings that you removed are there to prevent the high voltage power supply from being shorted by water condensation and high humidity. By removing the coating (probably some type of conformal coating), you have removed that protection. However, not all C V-700-6b counters had coated PCB's. One of mine does, while the other does not. 3. Some of the old components are difficult to find, such as the neon regulator tube, but are at least available. Unsoldering these and is a bit of a risk. <http://www.surplustuff.com/radiolog.htm> 4. The rotary switch is a big of a reliability problem. If you bend the contacts more than once, they'll break. The good news is that the device is very simple and has few components. It's made for easy repair, which is fairly easy. That's the origin of my bad joke about the counter surviving a nuclear attack. Drivel: It's not really a counter, because it doesn't count, but I can't get out of the habit of calling it a counter. >your suggestions into account as I move forward with my project. >I'll be trying the breath moisture thing right away. Thanks for >taking the time to educate an east coast newbie! :) -Matthew The breath test is fairly simple and will usually indicate immediately if you have a problem. I haven't tried it on mine for a long time, but as I recall, one counter consistently failed when I took it out a cold garage, and brought it into a warm house. With moisture all over the counter, it didn't work until it warmed up. This is a rather severe test and I would not expect even a conformally coated PCB to survive a condensed moisture test. However, a simple breath test should give you a clue as to how sensitive the counter is to moisture. If you want to fix that, some wax based conformal coating around where the GM tube cable connects to the PCB should be a good start. The wax coatings are nice because they come off easily if you need to do some rework. Make sure the PCB is clean and degreased before coating or you will trap the moisture under the wax. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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