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Baron <baron@linuxmaniac.net>: Jun 30 08:05PM +0100 >> chance? I had forgotten how much washing dishes by hand really >> sucks... Thanks, Lenny   > That's right but that's because the motor is not running. Lenny   The drain pump and the wash pump are two separate motors !   -- Best Regards: Baron.

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jul 01 11:37AM -0500 Baron wrote:       > The drain pump and the wash pump are two separate motors !   Captain Video said this one had no electronics, and a mechanical timer. So, it has to be SERIOUSLY old! All the old ones had a single motor/pump that was reversed to do both functions. Even our much newer one with electronic controls only has one pump/motor assembly.   Jon

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jul 01 11:40AM -0500 > couple of seconds, and then what sounds like the Klixon tripping out > again. I should mention as well that throughout all of this I've never > smelled anything burning, which is hopefully a good thing.   Possibly the Klixon protector got fried the last time this happened. Also, there may be a run capacitor that has failed. But, it may have also fried the motor when it seized up the last time and noboy was watching it.   The fact that it turns freely now inidcates something else has gone bad.   Jon

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jul 01 11:32AM -0500 >> I have 2 parts in a SMPS that I think are PTC thermistors. One is marked >> KC103P, the other KC221K, the first a blue disk looking just like this: >> http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=en/207356.xml   The PTC thermistors are from Keystone Carbon Corp., I used these some years ago. Not sure they are in business anymore, but the line may have been picked up by one of the components manufacturers.   I did find this : https://www.galco.com/buy/Keystone-Carbon-Company/KC010L   But that might be new-old stock.   Jon

Ivan Vegvary <ivanvegvary@gmail.com>: Jun 30 02:06PM -0700 Want to learn. Playing with Arduino and old Heathkit 1Mz scope. Have 1x10x probe with BNC connector. Heath scope has binding posts. Do I butcher the probe? Find adaptors?   Want to build simple 555 breadboard circuits so I can look at different wave forms. If I get good, will buy a faster scope. Thanks Ivan Vegvary

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Jun 30 05:29PM -0400 In article <2a82171b-c3d7-466b-b26e-b552bca96b02@googlegroups.com>, ivanvegvary@gmail.com says...   > Want to build simple 555 breadboard circuits so I can look at different wave forms. If I get good, will buy a faster scope. > Thanks > Ivan Vegvary   Just use a set of test leads, don't hack up a perfectly good scope probe.   Standard banna jack leads will fit the center of the binding post.   Jamie

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 30 05:30PM -0400 "Ivan Vegvary" <ivanvegvary@gmail.com> wrote in message news:2a82171b-c3d7-466b-b26e-b552bca96b02@googlegroups.com... > wave forms. If I get good, will buy a faster scope. > Thanks > Ivan Vegvary   As you can get some scope probes with the BNC connectors around 2 for $ 10 to $ 15 off ebay I would just cut off the connector of the probe you have. That is unless it is a high dollar one such as a Techtronix.   YOu can probably find a female BNC connector for almost nothing. Then just solder some wires to the female connector. At 1 MHZ and a few inches of wire, it probably won't be noticable on the scope you have.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jun 30 03:13PM -0700 In article <2a82171b-c3d7-466b-b26e-b552bca96b02@googlegroups.com>, >Want to learn. Playing with Arduino and old Heathkit 1Mz scope. Have 1x10x probe with BNC connector. Heath scope has binding posts. > Do I butcher the probe? Find adaptors?   If it's a dual binding-post/banana-jack on 3/4" centers, adapters are easy to find. Try a search for "bnc banana adapter" on eBay.   Even if these adapters don't happen to have the right spacing for your 'scope, you can always buy one, and a couple of short jumper cables, to make the connection.   Or, wire up a female BNC jack to a couple of wire pigtails.

Ivan Vegvary <ivanvegvary@gmail.com>: Jul 01 05:56AM -0700 Thanks everyone! Ivan Vegvary

keithk@ori-dot-net.no-spam.invalid (mrfloydin): Jun 30 08:26PM -0500 > > "Natural sounding analog recordings are   > Anonymous wrote:   > why I still use an old S-VHS Zenith HiFi vcr with defeatable level control > and individual left/right gain controls to make great sounding recordings of > local bands"   > No you don't, it is a JVC. The later ones made by Goldstar had no such option. I suggest holding on to that this and maybe checking it for capacitor crap from time to time.   > I used to make live recordings of a band on a Beta HIFI. Get this, I used a pair of headphones as microphones with a Shure mic preamp. Sony MDR-CD5. Just hung them up on the wall. Later when dubbing to cassette I used the pre outs of a Marantz reciever with the quadradial control to expand the stereo image, and it worked of course. I has to re-equalize a bit, but so what. It really didn't sound that bad. It sounded better than some King Biscuit Flower Hour. i also had to run it through Dolby B encode twice just to get it to fit in the dynamic range of a cassette tape, even with HX.   > Those are clunky ass old slow running machines those Zeniths, but you know what ? They do the job and are reliable. I used to work on VCRs for a living and you know what ? The ones I have the most experience on are the junkiest. I cannot think of any common problems on those right now. I also do not remember the equivalent JVC model nummber, but the FCC ID should not start with AK8. It maybe is AJU or maybe B something, I am not sure anymore. When I was doing VCRs I got so much into the FCC ID I asked for it one the phone before even going, or it coming in. Damn I used to know them by heart. Panasonics, Hitachis, whatever. I would know if I had the parts in stock. Well at least belts and idlers.   > I did not fuck around in business.     Interesting use of a 1970's era Marantz quad unit.

jmryan28@gmail.com: Jun 30 11:21AM -0700 On Thursday, February 27, 2014 at 4:21:53 PM UTC-5, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:   > Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is > ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the > subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.   Hi Samuel,   Did you figure out this issue in the end? I am having the same problem with my Panny TC-P50GT50...   Thanks, Jimmy   You are welcome to email me directly at jmryan28@gmail.com - thanks so much for your help. I am glad to see I'm not the only one with this issue.

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Jun 30 04:21PM -0400 > Hi Samuel,   > Did you figure out this issue in the end? I am having the same problem > with my Panny TC-P50GT50...   Nah, I'm just using Component Video, sorry. :( :) One solution I've been told is to replace the "A"? board. The cost and hassle simply isn't worth it to me, and then have it go out again in a year!   Cheers!   -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html   Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Jun 30 03:56PM -0700 On Tuesday, June 30, 2015 at 4:21:41 PM UTC-4, Samuel M. Goldwasser wrote:   > been told is to replace the "A"? board. The cost and hassle simply > isn't worth it to me, and then have it go out again in a year!   > Cheers!   An A main will fix both TVs. Unfortunately, both of these are later versions that incorporate the HDMI receiver/select into the BABGA. No manufacturers offer BGA chips separately that I know of. In any case, difficult for the pro and almost impossible for the novice to change even if the chip was available. This leaves replacing the A board and hoping you get a good one, or use the component inputs (which is what I would do on my own TV)

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