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Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Aug 13 05:50PM -0400 On 8/13/2015 3:42 PM, MNMikeW wrote:   > I'd like to use a solvent (I already tried water but I want to do a > better job) that dissolves the stuff so knowing the chemistry might help.   > Do you have any idea what the chemical composition of that stuff is?   What kind of device that won't let you get near it?   Caig DeOxit might help. I got some for a 1/8 phono jack, and surprise surprise! Seems to help a lot. Might help with battery corrosion, also.   Ebay for about $15 shipped. Well worth it, in my case.   -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .

Rachael Madcow <rachael.madcow@pms-nbc.nut>: Aug 13 07:54PM -0400 On 8/13/2015 5:50 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > a 1/8 phono jack, and surprise surprise! > Seems to help a lot. Might help with > battery corrosion, also.   Caig DeOxit is the electronic technicians holy water.

MNMikeW <mnmiikkew@aol.com>: Aug 14 04:31AM On Thu, 13 Aug 2015 14:52:36 -0500, Thane wrote:   > It's a mixture of potassium hydroxide and potassium carbonate.   > Check this article.   > http://www.thenakedscientists.com/HTML/questions/question/1000207/   That was an interesting article, which also said that it could be a mixture of ammonium chloride and manganese dioxide in the comments.   It seems that lemon juice or vinnegar (ie weak acids) are the way to clean it up chemically, based on that article.

MNMikeW <mnmiikkew@aol.com>: Aug 14 04:35AM On Thu, 13 Aug 2015 12:52:50 -0700, John Robertson wrote:   > off with a mild solution (50/50) of white vinegar and water, scrub, and > rinse with clean water carefully.   > http://flippers.com/battery.html   That article was nice, but I'm always suspicious when someone suggests idiotic things such as "pure water" (goes with "kosher salt" in my book, or with "organic eggs", etc.).

MNMikeW <mnmiikkew@aol.com>: Aug 14 04:38AM On Thu, 13 Aug 2015 17:50:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > Caig DeOxit might help.   The MSDS is one of the most generic I have ever seen. http://www.xerox.com/downloads/usa/en/i/i5008.pdf   No telling what it's made of.

MNMikeW <mnmiikkew@aol.com>: Aug 14 04:39AM On Thu, 13 Aug 2015 19:54:43 -0400, Rachael Madcow wrote:   > Caig DeOxit is the electronic technicians holy water.   The MSDS didn't say what it's made of. Any idea?

MNMikeW <mnmiikkew@aol.com>: Aug 14 04:40AM On Thu, 13 Aug 2015 17:50:27 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > What kind of device that won't let you get near it?   The AA battery was in a deep slot where you can't get a finger or brush easily in there to clean the alkali, but you can get a liquid (such as vinegar in there).

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Aug 10 05:20PM +0100 "Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1508092125250.25787@darkstar.example.org... > But now, the volume control may not be a suitable marker, the control may > not be attenuating the audio signal, but varying a DC voltage to control a > stage that is controlling volume.   Most of the older shirt pocket items had about 4k7 volume pot, usually this is too low for most signal sources you might want to patch into it.   My solution is to build a JFET source follower onto the input, you can use the pot as the source resistor, in front of the JFET you only need a gate-leak resistor and coupling cap.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Aug 10 08:59AM -0500 > The system is in a van. In the beginning wire 2 sizes larger than factory eg Hella wires seemed adequate then Liebermann suggested Powerstream for a kayak inverter. Once there I found the wire size calculator then Hella's point that a small voltage drop from 12V looses 30% of the light source.   > The alarm sirens and horn are powered now.   > Relays work with 8 and 10 Ga using the smaller wire for a signal.   If by signal you mean the wire that energizes the coil, it can be a lot smaller than 10ga. The coil may draw something like 120ma, so the wire diameter can be small.   There are two ways to power a relay. 1) You connect one side of the coil to ground and then switch +12V to the other side. 2) You connect one side of the coil to +12V then switch the other side to ground. A diode will allow current to flow if the voltage is higher on the anode than on the cathode. Current will not flow if the voltage is higher on the cathode than on the anode.   Has your original question been answered?   If you want an answer you need to ask one question and give enough details so we know what you are trying to do.   Mikek       --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. http://www.avast.com

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 13 11:08AM -0700 Hi Angus,   For your trip, (f)light reading for Andre?   http://www.popularmechanics.com/flight/a15172/learning-to-fly-part-one/?mag=pop&click=c1_article_articles_yr_1   John :-#)#

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Aug 13 11:10AM -0700 Crap - private email hiccup.   Sorry!   John :-#(#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com>: Aug 13 05:46PM The bigger issue is the invasivness of the minute by minute monitoring the meters provide. Turns out it's a great way to be Big Brother.   -- A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com & no one will talk to a host that's close.......................... Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com>: Aug 13 05:52PM >Electric meters are likely a Zigbee (peer to peer) network and eventually communicate via a cell phone data stream. The meters are TWO-WAY. The power company can disconnect power remotely.   >Water meters have batteries. Supposedly they are "truck" activated and only talk back when prompted. Yes, they have a battery.   >The gas meters, I don;t know, but they may operate the same way as the water meters. They contain batteries.   The big stupidity in PGE-land is while the line-powered KWH meters do peer-to-peer to the node with cell backhaul; the gas meters, on battery power, must talk straight to a node...needing far more power. -- A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com & no one will talk to a host that's close.......................... Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 13 09:22AM -0700 On Thursday, October 2, 2014 at 9:27:08 AM UTC-4, William Sommerwerck wrote:   > I'm not sure that's true in the US. Even giving away copyrighted material is > illegal, I believe.   No, and yes, depending on the specific downline use (in the US).   If used to generate revenue or to avoid fair payment for information. Example: I copy the NFL Superbowl on a DVD for later use in my home for my friends and family. LEGAL. And I may use that DVD as often as I choose for that purpose. I give a copy of the DVD to my brother in law, and he takes it home for his use only. Legal. It is a very grey area if he were to pass on a copy as it may pass beyond the 'time-shifting/fair use' rules.   I copy the NFL Superbowl onto a DVD and give it to a friend of mine who is the owner of local sports-bar. He then plays it for his customers. ILLEGAL. It may be implied that the use of that DVD is to generate revenue by attracting strangers to a commercial venue. The sports-bar owner should purchase his own copy from NFL Films for that use.   In the US, sharing copyrighted material *in whole* (what good is an incomplete manual) for business purposes is flatly illegal. For an example of how that works, look at some proprietary software - it is sold "by the seat". A user may transfer the software onto multiple computers, but only those for his personal use. He is one "seat".   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Aug 12 02:11PM -0400 On 8/11/2015 3:51 PM, Nick wrote: > assemblies? Is there an easy way to tell a fake from an original?   > Any ideas?   > Nick   Nick,   Genuine Sony KSS-240A pick ups have 3 pots on the board, and the optical chip is 14 or 16 pins (I can't remember), where as most of the 'aftermarket' ones have 8 pin IC's. That said, I've had OK luck with some of the 'aftermarket' ones (aka fakes)   Also look at the DAC board in the Alpha 8 at R69. It should be 2k2 (2200 ohms) if it is still the original 10k resistor change it, and maybe Q6 (BC847B) at the same time. This was a factory change because Q6 would get too hot and fail, killing one of the clocks and causing the laser sled to go flying to the outside. It could trash the gear rack in the optical pickup.   Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Aug 12 02:11PM -0400 On 8/11/2015 3:51 PM, Nick wrote: > assemblies? Is there an easy way to tell a fake from an original?   > Any ideas?   > Nick   Nick,   Genuine Sony KSS-240A pick ups have 3 pots on the board, and the optical chip is 14 or 16 pins (I can't remember), where as most of the 'aftermarket' ones have 8 pin IC's. That said, I've had OK luck with some of the 'aftermarket' ones (aka fakes)   Also look at the DAC board in the Alpha 8 at R69. It should be 2k2 (2200 ohms) if it is still the original 10k resistor change it, and maybe Q6 (BC847B) at the same time. This was a factory change because Q6 would get too hot and fail, killing one of the clocks and causing the laser sled to go flying to the outside. It could trash the gear rack in the optical pickup.   Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics

Nick <someone@invalid.inet>: Aug 12 07:20PM On Wed, 12 Aug 2015 14:11:39 -0400, Tim Schwartz wrote:   > 'aftermarket' ones have 8 pin IC's. That said, I've had OK luck with > some of the 'aftermarket' ones (aka fakes)   > Also look at the DAC board in the Alpha 8 at R69. It should be 2k2 > the optical pickup.   > Regards, > Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics   Hi Tim,   Thanks for the heads up on that, something to check when I next have the covers off!   Regards   Nick

Nick <someone@invalid.inet>: Aug 12 07:25PM On Wed, 12 Aug 2015 04:00:06 -0700, dansabrservices wrote:   > and I don't know the shipping cost. but either or both are available.   > Let me know if you are interested.   > Dan   Hi Dan,   Thanks for the offer, I've PM'ed you   Cheers   Nick

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Aug 12 09:07PM +0100 "Arfa Daily" wrote in message news:oFwyx.145392$bt.126359@fx32.am4...       "Nick" <someone@invalid.inet> wrote in message news:mqdjnv$g6v$1@dont-email.me... > assemblies? Is there an easy way to tell a fake from an original?   > Any ideas?   > Nick   I'm a bit confused. You start off talking about a '240, and then continue with the story of having tried two variants of a '210, before returning to discussing the '240 again at the end. 210's and 240's are quite different animals ...   As to replacing a KSS240A, I have to tell you that I have had pretty much zero success with replacements for the last 5 years or so, and these days don't even bother wasting my money getting one in for a job. As to the places offering "Genuine" or "Original" Sony pickups, I haven't found one yet that is. In fact, a while back, I had a long argument with an eBay supplier who advertised an original Sony KSS240 and even had the photo on the listing of the genuine article, with the Sony logo on the lens surround. Because of this, and the experience I'd previously had, I chose this supplier for the exact reason that they *were* offering a genuine replacement. When it arrived, it was nothing of the sort. Just for sport, I tried it in the player, and as expected, it behaved worse than the one it was replacing.   I took it up with the supplier and eventually, after a lot of to-ing and fro-ing got a refund, and got him to change the listing.   240's have, in my experience, always been a very fussy laser anyway, but never more so than with the clones that you now get. In fact, the whole laser replacement situation has taken a real nose-dive in regard to KSS series ones over the last couple of years, and for the most part, I don't even bother replacing 213s any more. Some work ok, some not so well, so not worth the risk. Interestingly though, I have had no problems with the replacement Sanyo ones (SFP101N both varieties, and usually supplied as a complete deck) and Philips VAM 12 / CDM12 varieties.   As to telling 'fakes', the originals always had the Sony logo on the lens surround, always had a small sticker indicating the laser diode current that had been set to give the specified output, and always had the pot - or pots in the case of a '240 - sealed with either white or yellow paint.   Not very good news for getting your Arcam working, I'm afraid, but just my experience changing lasers professionally for many years. I'm sure that there are a few others on here that can add to what I've said with their own experiences.   Arfa               I have attempted to repair many CDJ units that use this or similar mechs, by buying cheap clones off Ebay. Have to say that the success rate is well below 25%. The product is crap.   I don't do that any more.       Gareth.

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net>: Aug 12 09:20PM -0500 "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:oFwyx.145392$bt.126359@fx32.am4... > there are a few others on here that can add to what I've said with their > own experiences.   > Arfa     Most of the problems with the 240's I have seen ended up being the 15-pin flex cable associated with it. They bend, flex and fatigue up near the pickup end.   Problems are usually intermittent in nature.   Mark Z.

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Aug 13 07:59AM -0400 Arfa,   I'll have to disagree on one point. I've gotten many (most) KSS-240A lasers without the SONY on the lens cover, including ones purchased directly from Sony over the past 15 years. I've found the size of the optical IC on the bottom the best indicator.   Regards, Tim Bristol Electronics     On 8/11/2015 8:44 PM, Arfa Daily wrote:

Phil Hobbs <hobbs@electrooptical.net>: Aug 12 04:56PM -0400 > course all the filters were off, but I do want to try those filters.   > I started to get close to the null frequency with the external > generator. I saw how the response dropped.   THD is a ratio of RMS voltages, so 1.5V vs 3V is 50% THD, not 25%.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs       -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 13 06:00AM -0400 On Wed, 12 Aug 2015 01:01:08 -0700 (PDT) jurb6006@gmail.com wrote in   >Update :   >https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29948706/33901.jpg   404.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Aug 13 07:00AM +1000 On 12/08/2015 5:09 PM, Phil Allison wrote: > - as indicated by a few pics found on the net.   > But what is the number ?   > Reckon it likely starts with "TDA..... "   **I replaced dozens of those suckers back in the 1970s and 1980s. Extremely unreliable chips. As others have stated, it is an AN7000. WES don't stock them (of course). I have one in my IC drawer, but it has been pulled. I have no idea if it works. If you want to take a chance, it yours for the cost of postage. A better idea might be to call Peter Lengel at PJL Electronics. There is a chance he has some stashed away for a rainy day.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Aug 12 05:52PM -0700 I will check, but I may still have one hanging around. I'll report back.   Dan

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