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Bob <rgsros@notme.invalid>: Aug 09 12:45PM -0400 Hello,   Hoping someone here might know.   Have been using a Radio Shack Mini Amplifier Model No. 277-1008 for many years to help out a person with a disability. Really important for them   As no longer a R/S, have been trying to find who might actually make/made this unit, and/or who might still be carrying them.   Anyone have any ideas where I can purchase a few.   Much hanks, Bob

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 08 10:24AM -0700 On Sat, 8 Aug 2015 06:29:03 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader >> is made for maximum cooling, not minimum filth accumulation. I did an >> experiment once with some dog hair clippings (don't ask) to see what   >ha, nice test.   I used to share my office with a cigarette smoker. Checking air flow was easy with him around. However, he died and I have to now search for someone who still smokes (cancer candidates).   Incidentally, one of my favorite tricks to checking air flow is to remove the cover from (for example) a mini-tower case, and replace it with a layer of cellophane wrap. You can easily see the smoke moving around the case. For my paying customers, I vacuum formed a replacement cover out of clear acrylic, or viewed the insides with an endoscope. If I had a spare cover, I would install an acrylic window.   >I recall an old stale cigar being used to test airflow though audio amps >at one shop.   Yeah, that should work if you can stand the smell. One of my friends gave me a "plumbers rocket". They come in all shapes and sizes, but this one was a rather large one. Far too much smoke. So, I built a smoker (used to smoke cheese, meat, etc) from a small aquarium pump, a stainless can combustion chamber, and some copper plumbing. It doesn't produce much smoke, but that's what I want.   Hint: Don't use a fog machine. The water or glycerine mist is too heavy and sinks much faster than wood or paper ash. They also produce far too much fog and the glycerine is hard to remove from the PCB without washing the board.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 08 10:35AM -0700 >I'm surprised how few outlet grills have a bulge around them to stop >loose clothing blocking the air outlet. Cut bit/s of blue hotmelt glue >stick and glue the disc/crescent to the periphery simply sorts that one   Yeah, that can be a problem. I've done it to myself with the carpet matt that I have on my workbench. When I place the laptop on it, it sinks into the fibers and totally blocks the air flow. I now use a rubber door matt, that has a raised labyrinth design to prevent blocking.   However, the real problem is the newer low profile laptops don't have any air space under the laptop when placed on a flat surface. The closer proximity to the table means that it sucks in all the dust, dirt, crap, food crumbs, whatever that is on the table. Kinda like a vacuum cleaner. Try it. Put some dust on the table and move the laptop around near it. Unless the dust is sticky, it will get sucked into the fan.   The manufacturers solution is to replace or augment the slots in the bottom of the laptop with a grill full of small holes, such as in the photo: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/repair/HP%20Envy%20m6%20clogged%20fan/slides/clogged_fan.html> The added grill is obviously a quick fix that was not in the original design, which only had slots. The result is that the air intake area, is much smaller than the exhaust area, thus constricting the air flow. A centrifugal fan is a really bad choice for a system with a restricted intake (and a clogged exhaust). That might also explain why the fan didn't move much air, even at "high" speeds.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 08 10:53AM -0700 >"They all do that"   Welcome to my fan club: <http://fixmylaptop.com.au/files/u2/photo_3.jpg> <http://vidmar.net/weblog/images/vidmar_net/weblog/WindowsLiveWriter/MyDelllaptopisrunningloudfanisalmostalwa_146AF/IMG_4569_2.jpg> <http://scottiestech.info/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/clogged_heatsink.jpg> <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=dirty+laptop+fan> The problem is the transition between the fan shroud and the heat exchanger grill. If there's a gap in between, it's going to trap hair and eventually clog. Of course, they all have gaps. Not much can be done for that, except make it easier to clean. That's the real problem. HP, in its infinitesimal wisdom, failed to include an access door to the fan area. They also made it very difficult to remove the plastic case bottom. Ideally, the fan could be attached to an access door instead of the motherboard, which would make removal and cleaning MUCH easier. HP did do one thing right. I can remove the fan without first removing the motherboard which is a problem on some laptops.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 08 06:15PM -0700 "They all do that"   I bought a Dell 1705E for my first computer. In the library the 1705 drew ooohs and ahhhhs.   I moved to a jungle off the beach at Canaveral Inlet. I was watching Yanks beat the Sox when several roaches walked up over an into the laptop via mic slots.   aaaieeeeeeeeee !   Off course the r's were doing this unnoticed at night.   Dell sez everything is coated with an invisible waterproof plastic coating   On the air vent slits....consider the form is designed for air entry but not so easily water entry. By THE air slit engineer.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Aug 08 07:30PM -0700 On 8 Aug 2015, Jeff Liebermann wrote   > smoker (used to smoke cheese, meat, etc) from a small aquarium pump, a > stainless can combustion chamber, and some copper plumbing. It > doesn't produce much smoke, but that's what I want.   Jeff, what do you use for fuel in your smoker?   Dave

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 08 08:11PM -0700 >what do you use for fuel in your smoker?   Box cardboard, paper egg crates, wood chips, charcoal dust, pellet stove fuel, dried lawn clippings, or anything that will burn inefficiently and smoulder. Adding a sprinkle of water produced more smoke, but the flames went out too quickly. Read about what goes into a bee keepers smoker for clues: <http://www.dave-cushman.net/bee/smofuel.html>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 09 06:29AM -0700 AE6KS ..... how about live oak ?   or in your area...dead oak.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Aug 08 08:06PM -0700 I have an old and extremely heavy Onkyo stereo amplifier that I use in the basement in my workroom. I bought it years ago at a thrift shop and it's worked well for years.   Now only one channel works. I've tried it on A and B speakers and mono, doesn't matter. Sound comes out of only one side.   Is there anything simple this is likely to be, or is it time to set it out by the curb? (in my neighborhood nothing makes it to garbage day)   There was a thunderstorm and power outage this week, but I'm not sure if it failed before or after.

"Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com>: Aug 08 10:15PM -0500 "Tim R" wrote in message news:425fdc8f-20ed-40b2-ad73-fa7bbedff349@googlegroups.com...   I have an old and extremely heavy Onkyo stereo amplifier that I use in the basement in my workroom. I bought it years ago at a thrift shop and it's worked well for years.   Now only one channel works. I've tried it on A and B speakers and mono, doesn't matter. Sound comes out of only one side.   Is there anything simple this is likely to be, or is it time to set it out by the curb? (in my neighborhood nothing makes it to garbage day)   There was a thunderstorm and power outage this week, but I'm not sure if it failed before or after.       I've fixed my 5 channel Onkyo amplifier years ago; It was just cracked solder joints between the RCA connectors and the circuit board. I would suspect in your case that you may have a failed transistor or two. You have the other channel to compare the reading too. Remove the power transistors (mounted on heat sinks) and check them with an DMM on diode check, then compare them to the pair from the working side. It is probably worth the effort since Onkyo has a good name for mid quality Hi-Fi equipment. Then look on the internet for replacements or Substitutes and get a matched pair.   Shaun

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Aug 09 02:21PM +1000 On 9/08/2015 1:06 PM, Tim R wrote: > day)   > There was a thunderstorm and power outage this week, but I'm not sure > if it failed before or after.   **Since you have declined to provide any useful information, I doubt you can be helped. A model number would be nice. Some old amps are well worth resurrecting. Some are not. Given that yours is "old and extremely heavy" (how much is that - 10kg or 50kg?), then maybe it's worth fixing. Or not.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Aug 08 07:27PM -0400 In article <0cec50d3-7e01-42a4-8c73-74aa081c08fd@googlegroups.com>, avagadro7@gmail.com says...   > if I wanted to isolate this relays ground from the other grounds on the local ground bolt, I would wire in a diode with   > the stripe facing the relay   > or the stripe facing away from the relay ?   I am not exactly sure what you are doing but, It seems to me you are trying to piggy back on a existing circuit via a relay contact but you don't want the control signal to get crossed over ?   For diodes. the line side of the DIODE (K) is the side that will block (+) volts and the non-line(A) will block (-) volts, so no current will flow. This means if you were to place a diode (K) to the (+) side and (A) to the (-) side of a battery, no current will flow through the diode.   btw, the relay you pointed to uses automobile number codes, this generally means there is a code number that specifies a function of that wire.. Funciton, not an ID of the wire..norminal number per function. Not to get confused with cardinal or ordinal number types. The numbers you see printed beside the stabs on the relay indicate the use. This does not mean you have to follow that.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 08 06:06PM -0700 right...well written.   It seems to me you are trying to piggy back on a existing circuit via a relay contact but you don't want the control signal to get crossed over ?   correct. My DIY alarm system is grafted onto a factory system, an Omega, with diodes. If it doesn't work throw diodes at it.   The de riguer roof mounted desert driving lights ground thru 5 relays into a dimmer switch on the way to the brake from throttle. Was interesting testing that seeing it gradually not work from relay to relay.   searching thru schematics in Google Images I found diodes for multiple triggers. Now how would I know what a trigger is ...?   EHHEEYAYYAY it works !.     Here, I wired into a morass then tried finding an explanation for the problem running into 'switch to ground', what seems a backwards English description of ? and other confusion.   English EEE is difficult and examples are herein.   The system is in a van. In the beginning wire 2 sizes larger than factory eg Hella wires seemed adequate then Liebermann suggested Powerstream for a kayak inverter. Once there I found the wire size calculator then Hella's point that a small voltage drop from 12V looses 30% of the light source.   The alarm sirens and horn are powered now.   Relays work with 8 and 10 Ga using the smaller wire for a signal.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 08 10:11AM -0700 google images     https://www.google.com/search?site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=941&bih=428&q=Crown+XLS5000++wiring+schematic&oq=Crown+XLS5000++wiring+schematic&gs_l=img.12...5035.10827.0.13104.18.3.0.15.0.0.285.609.0j1j2.3.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..16.2.490.9r4x0TagNJ8#tbm=isch&q=Crown+XLS+5000+wiring+schematic

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