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Nil <rednoise9@REMOVETHIScomcast.net>: Sep 03 05:33PM -0400 On 03 Sep 2015, Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca> wrote in alt.home.repair:   > To watch youtube, you need a browser,   No, you don't. You just need an interface that will display Youtube content. It's included with a smart TV.   > compiled for a certain computer, which runs a certain operating > system, and which has a certain byte order and memory structure > and a whole bunch of other things associated with a "computer".   That's all included in your smart TV.   > Is the TV acting as a "computer"?   Yes.   > If so, what operating system is the TV?   I assume it's some customized version of Linux, but it doesn't matter unless you're planning to hack it. Normally you're given a user interface that will allow you access to the features built into the smart TV, which will include apps to access Internet content providers like Youtube, Hulu, Amazon, Netflix, and others. It may also include some games and other miscellaneous stuff. It may even include a web browser (mine does, but it works poorly.)

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 03 06:15PM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 03 Sep 2015 17:33:08 -0400, Nil >like Youtube, Hulu, Amazon, Netflix, and others. It may also include >some games and other miscellaneous stuff. It may even include a web >browser (mine does, but it works poorly.)   So what do you have that works poorl?. I was particularly interested in having a browser (more than having Netflix.) so I want to avoid what you have, if any other browser works better, that is.   --   Stumpy Strumpet the bimbus for dogcatcher

Nil <rednoise9@REMOVETHIScomcast.net>: Sep 03 06:36PM -0400 On 03 Sep 2015, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in alt.home.repair:   > interested in having a browser (more than having Netflix.) so I > want to avoid what you have, if any other browser works better, > that is.   I don't know what it's called, it's just whatever was included with my Samsung TV. It's deadly slow slow slow, and navigation with the TV remote is painful. I tried hooking up a USB keyboard, but it didn't work and I haven't bothered to try to troubleshoot it, since it's nothing I'm interested in using. If I want to browse the web I'll just use one of the several other computer devices in the house.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 03 08:01PM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 03 Sep 2015 18:36:31 -0400, Nil >> that is.   >I don't know what it's called, it's just whatever was included with my >Samsung TV. It's deadly slow slow slow, and navigation with the TV   Okay, I can remember Samsung. Thanks.     --   Stumpy Strumpet the bimbus for dogcatcher

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 04 11:56AM On Thu, 03 Sep 2015 17:33:08 -0400, Nil wrote:   > features built into the smart TV, which will include apps to access > Internet content providers like Youtube, Hulu, Amazon, Netflix, and > others.   Is this correct yet?   1. You hook up this "smart TV" to the power but to no other wires. 2. The WiFi connects to your router, so the TV is "on the net". 3. The TV has built-in apps to get movies on Youtube, Hulu, Netflix. 4. Some TVs have a web browser - but they're so slow as to be useless. 5. Some have a DirectTV (coax wired?) input in the back of the TV? 6. Some TVs have built-in games. 7. You can't *add* anything; it's all built in to the TV OS.   Is that the sum total of the advantages of WiFi on a TV?

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Sep 04 07:45AM -0500 On 9/3/2015 10:38 AM, Michael Black wrote:   > And a tv set has become a computer. They needed a CPU to handle the > data conversion, so they might as well allow it to be used as a more > general purpose computer.   Ya, so now you get to wait for it to boot up every time you turn it on.       Mikek

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Sep 04 07:47AM -0500 On 9/3/2015 7:01 PM, micky wrote:   >> I don't know what it's called, it's just whatever was included with my >> Samsung TV. It's deadly slow slow slow, and navigation with the TV   > Okay, I can remember Samsung. Thanks.   I have a Sony, and it's slow too!

Roger Blake <rogblake@iname.invalid>: Sep 04 12:55PM > Is that the sum total of the advantages of WiFi on a TV?   A disadvantage to Smart TVs is that they quite literally spy on you. At least one manufacturer has issued a warning about it:   https://www.thestar.com/business/tech_news/2015/02/09/samsung-gives-warning-about-talking-in-front-of-the-smart-tv.html   I really don't understand why anyone would even consider the purchase of such a device. I suppose for many that convenience and entertainment trump all other considerations these days.   -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Roger Blake (Change "invalid" to "com" for email. Google Groups killfiled.)   NSA sedition and treason -- http://www.DeathToNSAthugs.com -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Vic Smith <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net>: Sep 04 08:00AM -0500 > Ya, so now you get to wait for it to boot up every time you turn it on.   If I turn on my TV and computer at the same time, the TV barely beats the computer at booting. It takes 17.86 seconds for the picture/sound to show up for the TV.

Vic Smith <thismailautodeleted@comcast.net>: Sep 04 08:09AM -0500 On Fri, 04 Sep 2015 08:00:11 -0500, Vic Smith   >If I turn on my TV and computer at the same time, the TV barely beats >the computer at booting. >It takes 17.86 seconds for the picture/sound to show up for the TV.   BTW, that's a hard-wired HD TV attached to a basic cable box not providing HD.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 03 08:18PM -0400 After the previous thread, I'm interested in a set-top box... oh, that includes the roku that I asked about before on one of these groups.   Well 2 more questions:   The descriptions keep talking about HDTV. One doesn't need HD does he? It will output to SD also?     Are some of them wireless and can I expect it to stream continuously with wireless B/G? Or do I have to buy a new router with N? Remember, I don't have HiDef, and I don't expect to get it. If I buy with AC, will it still suppport B/G, which all my other devices are?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 03 08:21PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 03 Sep 2015 20:18:07 -0400, micky >with wireless B/G? Or do I have to buy a new router with N? >Remember, I don't have HiDef, and I don't expect to get it. If I buy >with AC, will it still suppport B/G, which all my other devices are?   And if you want to use one of these boxes with a smart-cell-phone app, that means sending data tot he phone company and getting something back?   Or is it all within the room one is sitting in?

"Terry Coombs" <snag_one@msn.com>: Sep 03 07:33PM -0500 micky wrote: > with wireless B/G? Or do I have to buy a new router with N? > Remember, I don't have HiDef, and I don't expect to get it. If I buy > with AC, will it still suppport B/G, which all my other devices are?   A 54G will be fine , I streamed all kinds of video and audio sometimes simultaneously . And just because HD content is available doesn't mean you have to use it - your old CRT TV will be just fine . What kind of cable are you going to use from the ROKU to your TV set ? Mine has only component and HDMI outputs ... no RF hookup . Right now I'm watching Rush Hour from a DVD in a computer - I have 4 inputs hoked up , Roku and the comp on the HDMI inputs , a DVD player on the component (yellow/red/white) and the satellite receiver on the RF input . BTW , you really should consider a newer TV , we got a 32" LED/LCD last spring and just love it . You can get a pretty nice unit for under 300 bucks , often nearer 200 if you catch a sale . Available inputs are going to be the biggest problem with older TV sets ... -- Snag

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Sep 03 09:39PM -0700 On Thursday, September 3, 2015 at 5:18:09 PM UTC-7, micky wrote: > After the previous thread, I'm interested in a set-top box... oh, that > includes the roku that I asked about before on one of these groups.   Smart TVs, BluRay disk players (maybe DVD as well), and settop boxes all are available with network (wired, wireless, or both) and make streaming connections. Most will connect to a variety of internet services (or local home servers). Game consoles count as 'settop boxes'.   > The descriptions keep talking about HDTV. One doesn't need HD does he? > It will output to SD also?   Not necessarily. There's LOTS of boxes with these features, some have analog outputs, either RF/analog or composite video, or both. Or, neither.

Tony Hwang <dragon40@shaw.ca>: Sep 04 12:15AM -0600 Terry Coombs wrote: > spring and just love it . You can get a pretty nice unit for under 300 bucks > , often nearer 200 if you catch a sale . Available inputs are going to be > the biggest problem with older TV sets ...   It is not the mode whether G or N or AC. It is a matter of minimum constant download speed is needed for good media viewing. I'd say at least 5mbps and up. No one likes stuttering video/audio. I have 50/3 service from my ISP. Always I can have download speed ot 50mbps. I real time stream always.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 04 03:28AM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 3 Sep 2015 19:33:59 -0500, "Terry Coombs" >simultaneously . And just because HD content is available doesn't mean you >have to use it - your old CRT TV will be just fine . What kind of cable are >you going to use from the ROKU to your TV set ?   The Roku or whatever will probaby input to the DVDR, which already connects to the TVs via composite, left, and right RCA cables into a RF modulator, and from there via co-ax to all 8 tvs (with a couple of RF amps along the way.. I found that every two splitters I have to put an amp.)   There would be a possibllity of using Y-connectors and going into the RF modulator directly, but I think the first way, I can use the channel selector to select the Roku when wanted. There are "channel selectionss" for the set of jacks1, set of jacks2, and set of jacks on the front of the DVDR. And I have remote controls on all 3 floors, with transmitters that get relayed to the DVDR. Not installed but I also have a remote controlled A-B switch, but only one remote for that. I'd probably end up having to walk upstairs to change from DVDR to Roku   > Mine has only component and >HDMI outputs ... no RF hookup .   Right.   > Right now I'm watching Rush Hour from a DVD in a computer - I have 4 >inputs hoked up , Roku and the comp on the HDMI inputs , a DVD player on the >component (yellow/red/white) and the satellite receiver on the RF input .   If I could just buy one TV with wifi and a digital tuner and all those inputs**, I'd do it, but what I need is an output to go to the other tvs in the house. If I had it to do over, I might have run left, right, and composite everywhere, but too much work for me now. What was especially hard was snaking the co-ax though the ceiling of the basement "family room". Down 6 inches and across 25 feet, to the laundry room with no ceiling. Maybe I used two snakes. But I made no provision for running more wires so it would be even harder to do more wires now than it was to do one wire the first time. I know there is wireless transmission, but then I'd need 6 or 7 receivers (I rarely use the tv in the attic these days, mostly for aiming the attic antenna.) , including one in the bathroom where there is no room, and wired is certainly reliable. I"ve had those 2 signal amps running 24/7 for 31 years without a problem. But better to have 2 power amps running. they don't use much power, than to have 6 receivers running.   **Even the big ones only have speaker outputs and maybe unamplifed sound outputs (to go to the stereo) but I only want a small TV in the bedroom where the DVDR is, and they usually don't even have speaker outputs (although they need them the most.) . In the bedroom I use the earphone jack but run it to a mechanical rheostat (mounted in a Pong remote control box), and from there to an amplifiied computer speaker. So I can control the volume with a knob instead of having to use the remote.     --   Stumpy Strumpet the bimbus for dogcatcher

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 04 03:31AM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 04 Sep 2015 00:15:01 -0600, Tony Hwang >> the biggest problem with older TV sets ...   >It is not the mode whether G or N or AC. It is a matter of minimum >constant download speed is needed for good media viewing. I'd say   But G is slower than N which is slower than AC, so I think the wireless too can bottleneck the signal. So I think the mode does matter. Except Terry tells me that B/G is fast enough.     --   Stumpy Strumpet the bimbus for dogcatcher

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Sep 04 03:43AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 3 Sep 2015 21:39:23 -0700 (PDT), >all are available with network (wired, wireless, or both) and make streaming >connections. Most will connect to a variety of internet services (or local >home servers). Game consoles count as 'settop boxes'.   Okay. >> It will output to SD also?   >Not necessarily. There's LOTS of boxes with these features, some have >analog outputs, either RF/analog or composite video, or both. Or, neither.   But even if the output connector is, say, only HDMI, it can still be set to output a standard definition signal, can't it? What if someone has one HD tv and another SD tv? Does that mean he can't use the expensive box?

Meanie <meanie.brat@gmail.com>: Sep 04 05:55AM -0400 On 9/4/2015 3:31 AM, micky wrote:   >> at least 5mbps and up. No one likes stuttering video/audio. I have >> 50/3 service from my ISP. Always I can have download speed ot 50mbps. >> I real time stream always.   IMO, G isn't fast enough for me and you are correct, AC is thus far the fastest but here's how it works. If you have a G router, any other device with G/N/AC capability will only use G. If you have an N router, any device with G/N/AC will use only N and of course, if you have an AC router, any device with AC capability will use AC. If a router has AC capability but a device has max of N, it will only use N. Bottom line, BOTH devices require the same capability in order to meet the speed they advertise.   Also keep in mind, even if you have the fastest router and device, your speed will still depend on what you're paying your provider.

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Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 04 04:51AM On Thu, 27 Aug 2015 11:20:05 -0600, Tony Hwang wrote:   > I don't even bother hiding my SSID. Nothing important in my home > network. My lawyer, bank, > accountant keeping important stuffs.   It doesn't seem like you understand the problem. Maybe you do, but it doesn't seem like you do.   The problem is they used, as a salt, the ESSID!   That's a pretty dumb salt.   It's even a dumber salt if the owner leaves the ESSID at the default values, or, if the owner changes the ESSID to something common.   Because of that, anyone with the tables already has your hash and is on your wireless network already.

Ewald Böhm <ewvesb@gilltaylor.ca>: Sep 04 04:53AM On Wed, 26 Aug 2015 10:29:39 -0500, Mark Lloyd wrote:   > I used to see a lot of "Linksys" SSIDs without wireless security. Once I > considered connecting and changing it to something like "I'm so > insecure!" or "I need my WPA!",   You have to realize what Jeff is trying to tell you, which is that any common name for the ESSID has *already* been hashed.   In that case, WPA2/PSK is worthless.   Use a common name, and you immediately have no security no matter what you set the security to.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Sep 03 12:03PM -0700 On Wednesday, September 2, 2015 at 6:42:40 PM UTC-7, David Farber wrote: > Kaboom and poof. > ...have received the replacement which I haven't plugged in yet. > (When I do, it's going to be in a series with 60 watt light bulb!)   The light bulb in series is a bad plan; the power supply will, in order to deliver regulated output power, draw higher current due to the lower input voltage, and fry the fuse, even if it isn't faulty.   Most common problem that makes the fuses fry: shorted diode in the AC rectifier (usually full bridge).

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Sep 03 03:40PM -0500 mike wrote:       > It's widely suggested that chinese crap doesn't test for > anything. They just slap on a fake sticker Yup, that's the REAL problem, FAKE UL and other certification stickers! Very scary. My mother in law got some surge suppressor strips some time ago. They had UL labels. If you turned them over, the plugs would fall out, even the FIRST time they were used. No grip to the contacts in the outlets. I sent the info on these to the UL comments address, and never heard back from them. I expected they'd WANT to know about fake labels, but apparently there are tons of these.   Jon

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Sep 03 05:44PM -0400 "whit3rd" <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message news:8adcc2bf-ab1c-43c1-ac27-01184a05d1f1@googlegroups.com... > and fry the fuse, even if it isn't faulty.   > Most common problem that makes the fuses fry: shorted diode in the AC > rectifier (usually full bridge).   The light bulb will limit the current to around what the bulb is rated for. That is a 100 watt bulb will limit at about 1 amp and a 60 watt bulb to about 1/2 amp. At low current the bulb is like a very low resistance and as more current is drawn and the bulb lights up it acts like a higher resistance.

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