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"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Oct 10 11:06AM -0400 Automobile dash cam failed.   I am pretty sure it's the On/Off switch, so the workaround will be to hard-wire the thing to "On".... No loss because it's always turned "On" anyhow.   But this thing is just "On" and "Off" - yet I see six pins under it.   In the pic below, you can just see the little green slider on the other side of the board. Slider to the right = "On".   I come away from looking the pic thinking that the two leftmost pins are not used at all (no etched connections visible), the two righmost pins are clearly used (visible etched connection going somewhere else on the board), but am not sure about the middle pins.   Before I unsolder this thing and just jump the two rightmost pins - and maybe mess something up.... can anybody comment on the possible roles of the other pins ?   https://picasaweb.google.com/108149798664924808733/Misc#6204033735361530914   If somebody asks, I will go back and try to get a clearer pic. -- Pete Cresswell

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Oct 10 04:44PM On Sat, 10 Oct 2015 11:06:13 -0400, (PeteCresswell) wrote:   > .... can anybody comment on the possible roles of > the other pins ?   Looks like a common DPDT switch ("Dual Pole, Dual Throw"). Google "DPDT" and you'll find all you need to know, maybe more :-)   Cheers!

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 10 01:46PM +0100 On 06/10/2015 11:58, N_Cook wrote: > I've no r/c with this machine. No response to open/close button. > Anyone come across a machine where you cannot use simple front buttons , > although physically present and wired up.   Failed SMD ATC 17-25, 2.5V 1A VR on the DVD pcb. Giving 1.1V in circuit, 2.5V no load. With a 4.7R load only 0.1V. Robbed a topcode N13A, 117 type 2.5v .8A VR from a video card and DVD back in operation via fron buttons. The slack tray belt was just a bum steer.

Charlie+ <charlie@xxx.net>: Oct 10 09:16AM +0100 This is for a 24v (Ni-Cd originally) fairly powerful hammer drill. The original 2 batteries it came with are shot and Iv been through the replacing cells stage but have reached the end of the line with them! So many cells in series has not been a reliable format! Could I make up a reliable battery using 6x 18650 cells and two of these cheap in/out protection circuits (see below) powered out in series? I could arrange a switch to parallel them when charging if that may be necessary. There seems to be little information on how these circuits work.. or might react in a 24/26v connection. Worth a try? I doubt the current would peak at more than 3A even in a grind to a halt situation (even if you could hold onto the drill - but I havnt' measured). Otherwise the whole drill is for the bin! Its branded McKeller. Thanks C+   3S-8A-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-18650-Charger-Protection-Board-10-8V-11-1-12V-12-6V eBay item number: 141739077302 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3S-8A-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-18650-Charger-Protection-Board-10-8V-11-1-12V-12-6V-/141739077302?hash=item21004eaeb6 or a slightly lower current board: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3S-6A-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery-18650-Charger-Protection-Board-10-8V-11-1V-12-6v-/171887035146?hash=item280544030a

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 09 08:12PM -0400 Cable TV signal merging with antenna signal.   Would an antenna amp be uni-directional and keep a cable TV signal from getting to the antenna even if there were a multiplexer or splitter connecting the two signals, used to merge the two signal for a TV?   Don't many people merge their cable and antenna signals like this?       A while back we discussed feeding a TV from a cable box and an antenna, and from two antennas of different design.   Someone tells me that the cable signal will go through the multiplexer -- or maybe he said splitter -- to the antenna, and that would violate FCC rules.   I said that I didnt' think the little signal that comes out of a cable or satellite box would be strong enough to radiate interference even to the next door neighbor (antenna or not).   He said the FCC thinks otherwise and that it published https://www.fcc.gov/guides/cable-signal-leakage which includes: "Cable signal leaks occur when the RF signals transmitted within a cable system are not properly contained within the cable plant. Cable signal leaks can be caused by loose connectors, damaged plant and cracked or unterminated cables."   and then it talks about how homeowners either have to let the cable guy come in and look for the leakage or risk getting their cable disconnected.   A) What does it mean "plant"? That seems like a strange word to use, and like it refers to the cable company and doesn't include a customer's house.   B) Woudln't an antenna amp be uni-directional and keep the cable signal from getting to the antenna?   C) Don't many people merge their cable and antenna signals like this?   Thanks.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 09 08:00PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 8 Oct 2015 16:16:06 -0700 (PDT),   >what is the difference ? the front view is not waterproofed ?   >and/or is there a perspective difference ?   You can't expect to be understood if you don't put the whole question in the body of the post.

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