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John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Oct 01 12:45PM -0700 I have an X-tronic 4000 that burned out it's hot air element (lasted three years, not bad). It shipped with a spare heater which is nice but I'd like to keep one in stock in case this one craps. There are a lot on ebay but none list the x-tronic specifically. The element in my station looks like this:   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heating-Element-Replacement-For-Atten-850-850B-Hot-Air-Gun-/171037093631?hash=item27d29aeeff   The description lists it at 250W (like mine does) but it's at 220V. Mine is a 120V machine, and I don't see any others that physically look the same but are 110V units. I didn't take mine apart but I don't think it's got a step up trans inside, or does it? Anybody else have this machine and a source for the elements?

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Oct 02 08:12AM -0500 On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 12:45:32 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote:   >I have an X-tronic 4000 that burned out it's hot air element (lasted three years, not bad). It shipped with a spare heater which is nice but I'd like to keep one in stock in case this one craps. There are a lot on ebay but none list the x-tronic specifically. The element in my station looks like this:   >http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heating-Element-Replacement-For-Atten-850-850B-Hot-Air-Gun-/171037093631?hash=item27d29aeeff   >The description lists it at 250W (like mine does) but it's at 220V. Mine is a 120V machine, and I don't see any others that physically look the same but are 110V units. I didn't take mine apart but I don't think it's got a step up trans inside, or does it? Anybody else have this machine and a source for the elements?     John,   This should work. It has the case so it costs about 25.00 with shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rework-Station-HOT-AIR-GUN-110V-AC-for-W-E-P-850-853DA-968DA-985D-852-852D-/131433883051?hash=item1e9a11e5ab   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 02 09:15AM -0700 >This should work. It has the case so it costs about 25.00 with >shipping. >http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rework-Station-HOT-AIR-GUN-110V-AC-for-W-E-P-850-853DA-968DA-985D-852-852D-/131433883051?hash=item1e9a11e5ab   It would seem that X-tronic 4000 takes the same heating element as the common 850 style hot air gun. If that's the case, there are plenty to choose from on eBay: <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=850+heating+element> If you go down the list, most are for 220VAC, but some include a choice of voltage, such as: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/281374270229>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Oct 01 01:39PM -0400 I have a Sandisk 32G USB flash drive that someone has given me in the hope that I might be able to salvage some data off it. Looks like it was in a laptop and jammed against a wall, resulting in broken solder joints. My PC wasn't detecting it when it was plugged in at all.   I cut the drive open and attempted to re-seat the pins and then reflow the solder using a heat gun on a low setting moving rapidly over the joints. It seemed to work but it's very difficult to tell if all the pins are making good connections with the pads.   Windows now recognizes that a USB device of some type is plugged in, but is giving me a "Device Not Recognized" error. Is it possible that this is due to a poor electrical connection, or is it likely that the controller electronics is somehow damaged as well? At this point I'm thinking of removing the USB connector completely and using jumper wires to ensure that all the pads are connected properly to the respective pins and have continuity Suggestions?

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Oct 01 01:45PM -0400 On 10/1/2015 1:39 PM, bitrex wrote: > thinking of removing the USB connector completely and using jumper wires > to ensure that all the pads are connected properly to the respective > pins and have continuity Suggestions?   My guess is your connections are not all there. if anything else were damaged I think you'd be able to see it. What are you going to connect the jumper wires to? Do you have a spare connector? I think I would solder the end of a cable to the board so you have a USB connector on the end of the cable. I'd like to have that on flash drives anyway. They stick out too much from the laptop and are prone to damaging the machine when bumped. My previous laptop lost two of its four USB connectors that way.   --   Rick

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Oct 01 01:48PM -0400 On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 13:39:50 -0400, bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> Gave us:   >thinking of removing the USB connector completely and using jumper wires >to ensure that all the pads are connected properly to the respective >pins and have continuity Suggestions?   You can also try booting a Linux Live CD or DVD.   But it still sounds like one of the connections is not yet re-established.   The heat gun method is bad.. You don't have a soldering iron? You can also remove the connector and solder on the wires of a cut off USB cable to it, permitting better access to said connections after the typically shrouded connector has been removed. Wires are usually easier as then they can be attached individually.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Oct 01 02:00PM -0400 On 10/1/2015 1:48 PM, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote: > USB cable to it, permitting better access to said connections after the > typically shrouded connector has been removed. Wires are usually easier > as then they can be attached individually.   I do have a soldering iron...;) But the only thing is that there is so little space that it's nearly impossible to get in there and resolder the pads, even with the finest tip, and ensure I'm not creating bridges while the plug is still in place. I think I'm going to follow your suggestion (and what I was thinking) and just remove the connector completely and use a spare USB cable as the header.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Oct 01 02:54PM -0400 > My previous laptop lost two of its four USB >connectors that way.   Another indicator that you ain't too bright.   Nice copycat job too.

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Oct 01 02:58PM -0400 > connectors that way.   > --   > Rick   I've detached the USB header completely and the pads on the data lines appear to be completely lifted. Do the data lines on flash drives usually have resistor pull ups or resistors inline? There are what looks like two 0402 resistors on the underside that I think might be connected to the data lines that I might be able to attach wires to.     --     ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Oct 01 04:43PM -0500 bitrex wrote:     > while the plug is still in place. I think I'm going to follow your > suggestion (and what I was thinking) and just remove the connector > completely and use a spare USB cable as the header. When the board is all chewed up, this is the most likely way to fix it. Absolutely not worth it to just make it useable, but you may be able to get the data off it this way, with careful handling. it is likely to be real fragile with the cable soldered on to it.   Jon

mroberds@att.net: Oct 02 03:55AM > Windows now recognizes that a USB device of some type is plugged in, > but is giving me a "Device Not Recognized" error.   Keep working on the idea of getting a better USB connection, but also take a close look, under magnification if you have it, at the flash memory chip itself. At least on some older flash drives I have taken apart (1GB-4GB or so), there was a small controller chip that spoke USB, and then a standard-ish flash chip for the storage. If the controller chip is there, but the connections to the flash chip are damaged, you could well get the problem you describe: the controller wakes up enough to convice the OS that something is there, but the controller is unable to come up all the way because it can't get at the flash memory.   I have held in my hand a drive that was damaged this way; it was whacked hard enough that many pins on the flash chip lifted from the board. The owner decided to start with (older) backup copies of the documents that were on the failed flash drive.   Matt Roberds

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 01 08:41PM -0700 > About the MIDI, not long ago I got one needed a USB jack replaced. > I didn't realize at first it was not a real keyboard, only a MIDI > controller.   ** Got one of them here now, the mini USB socket has popped right off the PCB and vanished. There is other unrepairable damage too.     > The wireless mic problem might fix itself forya. I got one in that had one bad mic, and looking t it, it isn't going to get fixed. Eventually the other mic will get broken and then there is a spare receiver. This recent one was an RSQ and apparently had all the channels. It could search for the frequency or you could select it manually. Those things probably all operate on one band. Here, they seem to be around 690 MHz, might be different in other countries. But it seems if you get the right receiver for your country it might just do the trick.     ** I would need about half a dozen to cover all the frequencies used here, VHF and UHF ranging from 49MHz to 830MHz.   Although they all use FM, the IF bandwidths can be narrow or wide and the audio companding systems vary a lot too.     .... Phil

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@labolgcbs.net>: Oct 01 08:34PM -0500 Not seeing any messages the past few days. Not sure why.   Mark Z.   -- "I can't die until the government finds a safe place to bury my liver."

Paul Drahn <pdrahn@webformixair.com>: Oct 01 07:11PM -0700 On 10/1/2015 6:34 PM, Mark Zacharias wrote: > Not seeing any messages the past few days. Not sure why.   > Mark Z.   See this ?

Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net>: Oct 01 12:49PM -0700 On 09/30/2015 05:19 AM, JC wrote: > arcing. Also the vertical output chip fails so you will get a trace but > no deflection. If you can go over all the joints carefully you might > have an easy repair.   Ok, I opened it up, there do not seem to be any burn marks on anything. Wiggled the connectors too. Should I be able to see a glow from the ctr filament without removing the metal shielding? So far I see no light, nor detect any warming near the neck end of the tube...one additional data point: the red "reset" led on the front panel is on all the time, and there is no illumination of the faceplate.

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Oct 01 04:35PM -0400 "Bill Martin" <wwm@wwmartin.net> wrote in message news:muk2k0$1q6$1@dont-email.me... > detect any warming near the neck end of the tube...one additional data > point: the red "reset" led on the front panel is on all the time, and > there is no illumination of the faceplate.   Do you have a copy of the service manual? Have you checked the power supply test points? Be careful, there are some points that can bite you.   The screen illumination is done by a flood gun.   Do you have another scope?     Regards, Tom

Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net>: Oct 01 02:05PM -0700 On 10/01/2015 01:35 PM, Tom Miller wrote:   > Do you have another scope?   > Regards, > Tom   I do have another scope...it is even working. No service manual for this one, I have the 1743A service manual, which should be "close" at least. Yeah, I know about being bitten, got 300Vdc from a Klystron plate cap once. Long ago, but you don't forget. So far all I have done is superficial, really obvious kind of stuff. Not likely to put a lot of effort into this, since fixing it could easily cost more than it is worth...just curious what is ailing. I'm suspicious of the crt itself at this point. If I can get it working, will likely give it away, to another "old guy" buddy that could use it.   Bill

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Oct 01 07:52PM -0400 "Bill Martin" <wwm@wwmartin.net> wrote in message news:muk730$kb4$1@dont-email.me... > this point. If I can get it working, will likely give it away, to another > "old guy" buddy that could use it.   > Bill   Pretty good copy here: http://www.ko4bb.com/manuals/index.php?dir=HP_Agilent/HP_1740_Oscilloscope   It really is not a bad scope. Good to over 100 MHz, two channel w/ delayed sweep.   It could be something minor like a bad capacitor in the power supply. Go check the supplies first.   Also, you will need to figure out how to fab some new feet as the originals are most likely gone.     Good luck and 73

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