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"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Oct 19 08:27PM +0100 This was a freebie with no history etc - it works, but pressing any of the setting buttons displays a padlock symbol on the screen.   Anyone know how to unlock it?   The Dell website wasn't much help, and it looks too old to find the manual.   Thanks for any help.

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Oct 19 07:58PM On Mon, 19 Oct 2015 20:27:00 +0100, Ian Field wrote:     > Anyone know how to unlock it?   > The Dell website wasn't much help, and it looks too old to find the manual.   > Thanks for any help.   You can get the Service Manual here: <http://monitor.net.ru/forum/pafiledb/uploads/4763b32b4eb1799662f8a3e2eda5a5cd.pdf>   It says: "Press the 'Menu' button for over 15 seconds to unlock the OSD Menu"   Cheers!

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Oct 19 09:01PM +0100 "c4urs11" <c4urs11@domain.hidden> wrote in message news:1445284723.273999@news.evonet.be... > <http://monitor.net.ru/forum/pafiledb/uploads/4763b32b4eb1799662f8a3e2eda5a5cd.pdf>   > It says: > "Press the 'Menu' button for over 15 seconds to unlock the OSD Menu"   Thanks and thanks.   Most grateful.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 19 09:32PM -0700 When the neocon-men in Washington start WW3, remember that the Russians helped you.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Oct 20 05:28PM +0100 <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1b3bda58-c384-49c4-aa8d-971575c1b4bb@googlegroups.com... > When the neocon-men in Washington start WW3, remember that the Russians > helped you.   Whoever presses the button - it will have been the Arabs that yanked their chain.

sonnichjensen@gmail.com: Oct 20 09:11AM -0700 Hi all   I have got a friends Samsung tablet, which does not charge - I tried another charger, and it still - slowly goes to 80%, that is it after some 4 hours. The charger is not the problem, so - a wild guess is the battery itself.   It is 1-2 years old.   Does anyone know anything about this?   WBR Sonnich

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Oct 19 12:54PM -0400 <pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message news:0a9cc775-024d-49fe-b559-a79df434006a@googlegroups.com... > What sort of voltage do I apply to the leads?   > Thanks, > George H.   As per Boris - yes, it could be a timing light - but definitely a stop-action device of some sort. I expect that there were other parts associated with it - strobe-type timing lights have an induction trigger device, usually, as one example. + & -attached to the battery, and the inductor clamped to #1 cylinder spark-plug wire.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA   ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++   But there is no trigger electrode. It might be Neon. Can you hit it with some high voltage, maybe from a lawn mower spark plug? See what the discharge spectrum looks like.

ggherold@gmail.com: Oct 19 11:45AM -0700 On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 12:53:45 PM UTC-4, Tom Miller wrote:   > But there is no trigger electrode. It might be Neon. Can you hit it with > some high voltage, maybe from a lawn mower spark plug? See what the > discharge spectrum looks like.   Hmm OK, I could try that.   I'm a little leery of mixing electronics with my lawn mower. Way back when, a motor wouldn't start, and I convinced myself it was a spark problem. I couldn't see a spark after all. I wanted to see how much voltage I was getting so I hooked up my DMM (though a series resistor), Pulled the cord to turn over the engine, and promptly blew up my DMM. :^(   George H.

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Oct 19 01:58PM -0500 > associated with it - strobe-type timing lights have an induction trigger > device, usually, as one example. + & -attached to the battery, and the > inductor clamped to #1 cylinder spark-plug wire. Really, really, cheap timing lights, like from the J. C. Whitney of old, were just two pieces of spark plug wire with a coiled neon tube in the middle. The spark plug and the coil were the current limiter. They were very dim, and you could get chopped up by the fan trying to get them close enough to the timing marks to see anything.   Jon

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 19 02:00PM -0700 On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 2:56:59 PM UTC-4, Jon Elson wrote:   > middle. The spark plug and the coil were the current limiter. They were > very dim, and you could get chopped up by the fan trying to get them close > enough to the timing marks to see anything.     That too. But a trigger electrode could also be down in the base somewhere.   Back when I drove carbureted VWs, I used a christmas tree light for a static timer. Seemed to work fine. I also had a neon timer such as you describe - and it had that big fat lens as in the pictures. The inductive lights did not. Might be as simple as a neon strobe head...   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ggherold@gmail.com: Oct 19 06:32PM -0700 > I hooked up my DMM (though a series resistor), Pulled the > cord to turn over the engine, and promptly blew up my DMM. :^(   > George H.   Tom, Sorry I chickened out and didn't put it across any of my working motors. (The last thing I want is to blow out the spark drive... I'm not really sure, what I'm saying. Is it ok to put a dead short across my briggs and stratton?   George H.

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Oct 19 10:04PM -0400 <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote in message news:569db2d6-bbd5-44e8-aa02-d51a43286510@googlegroups.com... > blow out the spark drive... I'm not really sure, what I'm saying. > Is it ok to put a dead short across my briggs and stratton?   > George H.   Doesn't the spark plug do just that when it fires?   What damages magneto ignition systems is open circuit, wire off plug events. Then the coil arcs internally.   Don't you have any kind of transformer that could make a HV spark with say a 9 volt battery? A filament transformer maybe?

ggherold@gmail.com: Oct 20 07:11AM -0700 On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 10:04:36 PM UTC-4, Tom Miller wrote: > > Is it ok to put a dead short across my briggs and stratton?   > > George H.   > Doesn't the spark plug do just that when it fires? Yeah, I didn't say my fear was rational. I had a bunch of old engines, I think most were "re-cycled" this past summer. Hmm, OK I'll hook it up to my old tractor. (Ferguson to-20) If I blow out the coil it's easy to put in a new one. > Then the coil arcs internally.     > Don't you have any kind of transformer that could make a HV spark with say a > 9 volt battery? A filament transformer maybe?   9V battery and transformer? (how does that work?)   I've got a 120-24 (6A) tranny, how much voltage would you guess I'll need? I could run that backwards from a Variac.   George H.

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Oct 20 10:41AM -0400 <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote in message news:aa224646-0b5f-4e79-8e12-895f8a277660@googlegroups.com...   > I've got a 120-24 (6A) tranny, how much voltage would you guess I'll need? > I could run that backwards from a Variac.   > George H.   Just take clip leads to the highest voltage winding (primary?) to the tube. Then use the battery to "flash" the lowest voltage winding. Think about how the points work in an ignition circuit.   No, do not use a variac.   All you want is to get a discharge through the tube and see what color is produced. Red says it might be Neon, blueish white may be Xenon, other will be who knows.

ggherold@gmail.com: Oct 20 08:17AM -0700 On Tuesday, October 20, 2015 at 10:41:16 AM UTC-4, Tom Miller wrote:   > All you want is to get a discharge through the tube and see what color is > produced. Red says it might be Neon, blueish white may be Xenon, other will > be who knows.   Thanks Tom, I got nothing with my big transformer. (I don't have enough current to get any significant voltage across the low voltage windings. It could also be that the tube is dead. I'll try with my tractor at home tonight.   George H.

"Tom Miller" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Oct 20 11:56AM -0400 <ggherold@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1fd8c44b-87be-47ae-9770-2c1e10a6ecd6@googlegroups.com... > voltage windings. It could also be that the tube is dead. > I'll try with my tractor at home tonight.   > George H.   Just be careful. Getting hit with the HV can really hurt.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 19 07:16PM -0700 > > The rules you seem to be alluding to are for *amplifers* used in > > home entertainment.   > Let's clarify, then. US speaker manufacturers very rapidly adapted to the FTC rules when publishing their ratings. Prior to these rules, IPP was the way amp makers would fool their buyers, and speaker makers would do their ratings similarly. As things equalized, their ratings became much more realistic.   ** Entirely different to the nonsense you posted before.   The "rated power" of a hi-fi speaker is generally the largest amplifier power rating that it is acceptable to use with music program. This number is however many times greater than the continuous (ie sine wave) power handling of the same speaker. > > dynamic range of the music so there is more average power going > > to the speaker - which eventually overheats the voice coil.   > If you can, next time you are out on the street, see if you can borrow either of a Dynaco ST80, ST120, AR amplifier, any of several Scott/Fisher/Sherwood solid-state designs, any any of many pacific-rim solid-state designs that used discrete output transistors, a Revox B722 - the list goes on. Drive it to clipping. At clipping you will see serious DC at the outputs. This will 'freeze' the VC(s) in one position with lots-O-energy at the same time.     ** You are still equating peak clipping with steady DC, which is bizarre nonsense. " Clipping does not cause DC, the main effect is to compress the dynamic range of the music so there is more average power going to the speaker - which eventually overheats the voice coil. "     > Instrument amps blow speakers for many different reasons - > and even a transformer will transfer chopped DC.   ** Chopped DC has both DC and AC components.   Transformers can only "transform" AC current while any DC current is converted to heat in the primary winding and magnetises the iron core. No DC appears at the secondary.       ... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 20 07:42AM -0700 On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 10:16:12 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > ** You are still equating peak clipping with steady DC, which is bizarre nonsense.   Phil:   If you are sufficiently curious, just try and find one of the amps I listed and drive it to clipping - say, with a 1000hz sine wave. Measure what comes out. It will (at least) get you to raise your eyebrows...   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Oct 19 07:50PM -0700 Just posting a brief note to perhaps save somebody else some research effort.   This weekend, at the Pacificon hamfest, I acquired a Telonic 4053A RF sweep generator. It's a nice, compact little box with three bands (0-450 MHz, 450-900, and 900-1350), sweep widths from 200 kHz to 500 Mhz, slide-switch and vernier attenuators, a bunch of crystal- controlled frequency markers, and rated output of +7 dBm.   Naturally, I wanted a manual. Initial searches came up empty, with little information other than that this is a "special model" built to FAA specifications (and mine has an FAA stamp on the back). A few postings from years ago suggested that other buyers of these surplus sweep generators also failed to find manuals.   After digging a bit deeper, I seem to have lucked out. At KO4BB's web site, I found a couple of Telonic manuals in the "miscellaneous test equipment" section. One was for the Model 1205 sweep generator, which appears to be the same device - identical physical appearance, and the internal layout seems to match mine. The 1205 is described as being able to take a set of up to 7 marker-generator crystal-oscillator sub-boards, and I suspect that the "4053" may simply be a 1205 with an FAA-specified set of marker boards and a front panel silk-screened accordingly. There may be other differences but, if so, they don't seem to be profound ones, and the 1205 manual and schematic and alignment procedures should still prove useful.   My new acquisition seems to work, making the $20 I paid for it a real bargain.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Oct 20 07:52AM -0400 Dave Platt wrote: > alignment procedures should still prove useful.   > My new acquisition seems to work, making the $20 I paid for it a real > bargain.     Archive.org took the remaining manuals when Manualsplus.com stopped selling obscure manuals. They took about 25,000 manuals that will be scanned, and put online for free. I haven't seen a timetable, or if there iss even a completed inventory of what they have, but I would check their site from time to time to see if they have it.     They have added a lot of old semiconductor data books. If you are going to download a lot of them, use bit torrent or other software to reduce the loading on their servers. There is also an area with a lot of old electronics and computer magazines you can read online, or download.     <https://archive.org/details/electronicsmanuals?&sort=-downloads&page=6>

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Oct 19 04:07PM -0700 I need to control the speed of a 1/3HP 120V AC motor. This motor/speed control would go onto a wood lathe and replace the pulley system which is now in place. Does anyone know of a solid state speed controller that I could perhaps build to to this? Thanks, Lenny

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 19 06:38PM -0500 > I need to control the speed of a 1/3HP 120V AC motor. This motor/speed control would go onto a wood lathe and replace the pulley system which is now in place. Does anyone know of a solid state speed controller that I could perhaps build to to this? Thanks, Lenny   Need more information about the 1/3 HP AC motor.   Mikek

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Oct 19 07:59PM -0400 In article <be1f9e77-00f0-4660-9e58-80f0142eba96@googlegroups.com>, captainvideo462009@gmail.com says...   > I need to control the speed of a 1/3HP 120V AC motor. This motor/speed control would go onto a wood lathe and replace the pulley system which is now in place. Does anyone know of a solid state speed controller that I could perhaps build to to this? Thanks, Lenny   If this is a universal type motor, one with brushes, you can use a variac (Adjustable Auto Tranformer).   If this is a squirrel cage type motor, then it either has a capacitor for start/run or winding, those you aren't going to control very well, especially if it has a centrifugal switch in it! that would be the thing you hear click inside the motor when it starts up. I guess if you could get your hands on a phase wound rotor you could vary the rotor via a rhostat :)   But really, it seems that a universal motor would be the simplest for you.   If you are not sure what you have, check for brushed, if they exist and you know it's an AC motor, then that is what you.   P.S. If you do have a 3 phase AC motor you can get a inverter that will operate from single phase to generate a three phase. That way you can vary the speed via the inverter. But I think that will cost you more than getting a uni motor with variac.   Jamie

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 20 08:40AM +0100 > I need to control the speed of a 1/3HP 120V AC motor. This motor/speed control would go onto a wood lathe and replace the pulley system which is now in place. Does anyone know of a solid state speed controller that I could perhaps build to to this? Thanks, Lenny   Pulley system increases torque at low speed of cutting Electronic gubbins can only decrease torque at low speed

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